© Emmy Scanga 2021

New Name… Same quality.

Inky Fox the Yarn Bandit has REBRANDED! Now you can find all the same patterns and
same quality by Emma Scanga done under a new name: Ember Mischief.
These patterns will have all the original design and artwork on them (including the old
logo) but the last pages and links will be updated so you can find the new name on all
the socials!
Join the community on this new journey and thank you for all the continued support.

Sincerely, Emmy
1
 Mallow the Rabbit
Amigurumi
-My Kid Wants a Pet Collection-
I had dwarf bunnies as a young child.
Ours were litter box trained and
roamed the house. Not all parents are
up for that; so as another addition to
the pet collection, I give you Mallow
the Rabbit. Squishy, lovable and fluffy
if you wish.
Much Love,
E m m y
© Emmy Scanga 2020

SUPPLIES: DIFFICULTY: Comfortable with chain bumps,

• Yarn (total of at LEAST 270 yards) rows and round changes,
•Yarn Needle increasing and decreasing, and
•Row and Stitch Markers single crochet. Sewing required.
•Scissors Comfortable Some embroidery.
•Fiber filling Beginner to Medium
•15 mm safety eyes
• Embroidery Thread/Yarn for details YARNS USED:
(optional)
NATURAL MALLOW: Loops and Threads Sugarspun (3) Light
•Bristle or pet brush (optional)
weight in “Toasty” 3 oz
RAINBOW MALLOW: Lion Brand Landscapes (4) Medium
HOOK SIZE: weight in “Coral Reef” 3.5oz (2 skeins)
Red Heart Heat Wave (4) Medium weight in “Baggage” 3.5 oz
3 mm or 3.25 mm

Questions? ABBREVIATIONS:
Having trouble? AMERICAN TERMINOLOGY
Mistakes in the pattern?
Click sc = single crochet
inc = increase, two stitches in the same space
dec = decrease, two stitches together
MC = Magic circle
to email me. ch= Chain
chbp= chain bump
slst = slip stitch
My finished size: sts = stitches
~ 7 to 10 inches sitting
Yours will vary depending *Video tutorial links on the last page*
on your personal gauge,
hook and yarn.

2
© Emmy Scanga 2020

A note on yarns….
The yarn combo
Almost all of the yarns I use in my stash
matters…. have been given to me, so they vary
widely. However if you are buying new
Here is an example of two skeins, I suggest the same weight, and if
yarns that say “Medium (4)” possible the same brand of at least 3.5 oz
of each color. This ensures that each
It’s clear that you’ll get two piece will match in size and shape as
different sizes and different “medium weight” can vary from brand to
looks depending on the yarn brand.
you get. Read the “A note on Colors needed for pieces: body color and
yarns” for tips on a consistent one color for paws, nose, and feet.
look.

Before you begin...

If you are new to creating amigurumi, I highly suggest using the links at the very last page. Those will help
tremendously -- ALL of those are free video tutorials.

Otherwise, keep an eye out on certain pages for tips and tricks. I try to be as thorough as possible with my patterns. If
you find any mistakes or if something is unclear, be sure to email me using the link on the previous page or any of
the social links on the last page.

I am creating a rabbit. This pattern is super versatile and can be brushed out to create a fluffy look. I also highly
encourage natural dyed yarns for beautiful color transitions. You can use one color or use two to create a different
colored tummy.

NOTE: Most of the pieces are flat and will be sewn together. I will have a detailed page outlining this process to make
it super easy for you. No need to worry about seeing stitches or making them perfect… It just adds more character to
your rabbit.3
© Emmy Scanga 2020

ARE DIFFERENT HERE... Rows

For most patterns, rows are traditionally done as each way is one row… so in a normal pattern, your foundation
chain is row one, you turn skip the first stitch and work row 2….
In my patterns, a row is a forward and backward pass… so row one is now both the foundation row, the turn, AND
the return pass.
WHY? To make it easier to keep track of your rows. Now you can use a stitch marker up one side and know
EXACTLY which row you are on. I break down the forward and the backward pass by indenting. You’ll always start
your rows on the tail side… making it easier to put your project down.
If you ever get confused, just reach out to me. Or simply mark every new line as a row to be more in line with
traditional patterns. After teaching for years, this newer method has helped beginner crocheters.

New/My Row Method... Traditional Row Method...

Row 1: MC 8 sc, TURN = 8... Row 1:Row 1: MC 8 sc, TURN = 8...
4 sc, ch 1, 4 sc, TUR... Row 2:4 sc, ch 1, 4 sc, TUR...
Row 2: 4 sc, [3 sc] in the c... Row 3:Row 2: 4 sc, [3 sc] in the c...
inc, 4 sc, [3 sc], 4 sc.... Row 4:inc, 4 sc, [3 sc], 4 sc....
Row 3: inc, 6 sc, [sc, ch 2, ... Row 5:Row 3: inc, 6 sc, [sc, ch 2, ...
9 sc, [3 sc] in the c... Row 6:9 sc, [3 sc] in the c...

Paired Each line has its own row,

instructions to usually meaning you have to
create one row mark the first stitch of each
marker along row, or print and manually
one side. You mark your paper copy, to keep
can clearly see in track. In the photo here, row 1, 3
the photo here, and 5 (pink markers) are on the
row 1, 2 and 3. right and rows 2, 4 and 6 (blue
R6 R5 markers) on the left.
R1 R2 R3 R4 R2 R1 R3
4
© Emmy Scanga 2020

OUTER EARS Make 2

*In body color-- crochet in rows -- no sc turn at the end of
each row, just insert into the stitch closest to the hook*
Row 1: Ch 8, turn = 8 sts
8 sc in each chbp FIG 1, turn = 8 sts
Row 2: 8 sc, turn = 8 sts
8 sc, turn = 8 sts
Row 3: inc, 6 sc, inc, turn = 10 sts
10 sc, turn = 10 sts
Row 4: inc, 8 sc, inc, turn = 12 sts
12 sc, turn = 12 sts
Row 5 through Row 8: 12 sc, turn = 12 sts
12 sc, turn = 12 sts
Row 9: sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, sc, turn = 10 sts
10 sc, turn = 10 sts
Row 10: 10 sc, turn = 10 sts
10 sc, turn = 10 sts
Row 11: sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, sc, turn = 8 sts
8 sc, turn = 8 sts
Row 12: sc, dec, 2 sc, dec sc, turn = 6 sts
6 sc, turn = 6 sts
Row 13: sc, 2 dec, sc, turn = 4 sts
4 sc, turn = 4 sts
Row 14: 4 sc, turn = 4 sts
2 dec - 2 sts

Bind off with tail for sewing onto head (cut yarn to desired
length, yarn over, pull tail all the way through). FIG 2
5
© Emmy Scanga 2020

INNER EARS Make 2

*In accent color OR body color -- crochet in rows -- no sc turn at
the end of each row, just insert into the stitch closest to the hook*
Row 1: Attach to row one of outer ear FIG 3- 8 sc, turn = 8 sts
8 sc, turn = 8 sts
Row 2: 8 sc, turn = 8 sts
8 sc, turn = 8 sts
Row 3: 4 sc, inc, 3 sc, turn = 9 sts
9 sc, turn = 9 sts
Row 4: inc, 7 sc, inc, turn = 11 sts
11 sc, turn = 11 sts
Row 5 through Row 8: 11 sc, turn = 11 sts
11 sc, turn = 11 sts FIG 4
Row 9: sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, sc, turn = 9 sts
9 sc, turn = 9 sts
Row 10: 9 sc, turn = 9 sts
9 sc, turn = 9 sts
Row 11: sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, sc, turn = 7 sts
7 sc, turn = 7 sts
Row 12: sc, dec, sc, dec sc, turn = 5 sts
5 sc, turn = 5 sts
Row 13: 2 sc, skip next stitch, 2 sc, turn = 4 sts
4 sc, turn = 4 sts
Row 14: 2 dec = 2 sts FIG 5
Bind off (cut yarn to desired length, yarn over, pull tail all the way
through) with tail to sew inner and outer ear together. To finish the
ear, use tail from the inner ear to sew inner and outer ear together FIG
6 & 7. Once together, fold in half with inner ear inside FIG 8. Sew outer
edges together for a few rows up. FIG 9
6
© Emmy Scanga 2020
**** ROW MARKERS****

HEAD It is important to leave row markers in

place when you finish the head, body
and tummy… these will be needed for an
*In body color -- crochet in rows -- no sc turn at the end of each row, easier assembly process.
just insert into the stitch closest to the hook*
If you do not use row markers- I will
Row 1: Ch 10, turn = 10 sts mark the pattern where to place a
10 sc in each chbp = 10 sts marker on each side of a finished row.
Row 2: sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, sc, turn = 12 sts You can use scrap pieces of yarn, just
sc, (inc, 2 sc) repeat 3 times, inc, sc, turn = 16 sts make sure they stay in place while you
crochet and are able to be removed as
Row 3: 16 sc, turn = 16 sts you sew later.
16 sc, turn = 16 sts
Row 4: (sc, inc) repeat 4 times, (inc, sc) repeat 4 times, turn = 24 sts FIG 10
24 sc, turn = 24 sts
Mark 1st and
Row 5: sc, (inc, 2 sc) repeat 7 times, inc, sc, turn = 32 sts last sts of
this row line
32 sc, turn = 32 sts Mark 1st and
Row 6 through Row 9: 32 sc, turn = 32 sts last sts of the
first line of
32 sc, turn = 32 sts Row 7
--- On flat pieces I use a traditional decrease---
Row 10: 6 sc, ch 3, skip 6 sts, 8 sc, ch 3, skip 6 sts, 6 sc, turn = 26 sts FIG 11
Sc, 2 dec, 16 sc, 2 dec, sc, turn = 22 sts
Row 11: sc, 3 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec, sc, turn = 16 sts
3 dec, 4 sc, 3 dec, turn = 10 sts
Row 12: 2 dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, turn = 6 sts
6 sc, turn = 6 sts
Row 13: 6 sc, turn = 6 sts
6 sc, turn = 6 sts.
Row 14: sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc, turn = 8 sts
Sc, inc, sc, 2 inc, sc, inc, sc = 12 sts

Bind off with short tail- it will be hidden in body during sewing process. The
head will be partially attached on the body in the next section. 7
© Emmy Scanga 2020

EYES:
Locate the H5 markers (these are the first and
last stitches of the first line of Row 5 on the
head pattern).

Count 8 stitches from the edges inward.

Place a marker or the safety eyes in the 8th
stitch from each edge. FIG 12 & 13

NOTE- Fig 13 on the right was after I had sewn

the nose and the ears on- which you can
attach the eyes anytime before the tummy is

Prepping for body creation...

sewn to the body.

The body is worked up attached to the head. You are

essentially using the H7 marker as a starting and ending point
This is my finished
Row 1 so you see on each side of the head.
what you are aiming To make this easier, place the head in the right position before
for- two spaces with
each edge attached starting the body so you are attaching it on the correct side.
to the head.

Place the head so that the nose/row 1 of the head is towards

you while the last row of the head is away from you. Right side
up (the side that will have the eyes showing). You will be
working as though you are continuing the head, crocheting in
This is how you should
the same direction as before.
position the head before As I am right handed, I start on the right H7 marker and work
you start. My thumb is at
row 1 of the head. I’m my way to the left H7 marker. If you are left handed you will
working from the blue H7
marker to the pink H7
attach and start on the left H7 marker and work your way to
marker on the other side. the right H7 marker.
8
© Emmy Scanga 2020

BODY
*In body color -- crochet in rows -- no sc turn at the end of each
row, just insert into the stitch closest to the hook*
Row 1: sc on the edge of the head in the H7 marker on one side
FIG 14, ch3, 12 sc continuing on the last row of the head FIG
Mark 1st and
15, ch 3, sc in the other H7 marker FIG 16, turn = 20 sts last sts of
this row line
20 sc, turn = 20 sts
Mark 1st and
Row 2: 20 sc, turn = 20 sts last sts of
this row line
20 sc, turn = 20 sts
Row 3: 20 sc, turn = 20 sts
Inc, 18 sc, inc, turn = 22 sts
Row 4: 22 sc, turn = 22 sts
2 inc, 18 sc, 2 inc, turn = 26 sts
Row 5: 26 sc, turn = 26 sts
inc, 24 sc, inc, turn = 28 sts Mark 1st and
Row 6 through Row 9: 28 sc, turn = 28 sts last sts of the
first line of
28 sc, turn = 28 sts Row 9
Row 10: inc, 26 sc, inc, turn = 30 sts
30 sc, turn = 30 sts
Mark 1st and
Row 11: 30 sc, turn = 30 sts last sts of
this row line
30 sc, turn = 30 sts
Row 12: 30 sc, turn = 30 sts
3 inc, 24 sc, 3 inc, turn = 36
Row 13: (inc, 6 sc) repeat 5 times, inc, turn = 42 sts
42 sc, turn = 42 sts
Row 14: 42 sc, turn = 42 sts
15 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 15 sc, turn = 44 sts
Row 15: 44 sc, turn = 44 sts
16 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 16 sc, turn = 46 sts
9
© Emmy Scanga 2020

BODY continued...
Row 16: 46 sc, turn = 46 sts
16 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 16 sc, turn = 48 sts
Row 17: 48 sc, turn = 48 sts
48 sc, turn = 48 sts
Row 18: 16 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 16 sc, turn = 46 sts
46 sc, turn = 46 sts
Row 19: 4 sc, dec, 34 sc, dec, 4 sc, turn = 44 sts
44 sc, turn = 44 sts
Row 20: 44 sc, turn = 44 sts
44 sc, turn = 44 sts
Row 21: 10 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 10 sc, turn = 42 sts
42 sc, turn = 42 sts
Row 22: dec, 2 sc, (dec, 6 sc) repeat 4 times, dec, 2 sc, dec, turn = 35 sts
3 dec, 23 sc, 3 dec = 29 sts
Bind off. Tail will be hidden inside the body during assembly. FIG 17

TUMMY
*In body color or accent color -- crochet in rows -- no sc turn at the end
of each row, just insert into the stitch closest to the hook*
Attach to the last row of the body (Row 22) beginning at the 12th stitch
from the edge, you’ll start your row one in the 12th stitch;
Row 1: 7 sc, turn = 7 sts FIG 18
7 sc, turn = 7 sts
Row 2: 7 sc, turn = 7 sts
2 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, turn = 11 sts
Row 3: 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, turn = 12 sts
Inc, 10 sc, inc, turn = 14 sts
10
© Emmy Scanga 2020

TUMMY continued...
Row 4: 14 sc, turn = 14 sts
Inc, 12 sc, inc, turn = 16 sts
Row 5: inc, 14 sc, inc, turn = 18 sts
18 sc, turn = 18 sts
Row 6 through Row 10: 18 sc, turn = 18 sts
18 sc, turn = 18 sts
Mark 1st and
Row 11: dec, 14 sc, dec, turn = 16 sts last sts of
this row line
Dec, 12 sc, dec, turn = 14 sts
Row 12: dec, 10 sc, dec, turn = 12 sts
dec, 8 sc, dec, turn = 10 sts
Mark 1st and Finished tummy piece
Row 13: 2 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, turn = 14 sts last sts of
this row line
14 sc, turn = 14 sts
Row 14: 14 sc, turn = 14 sts
14 sc, turn = 14 sts
Mark 1st and
Row 15: 2 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec, turn = 10 sts last sts of
this row line
Dec, 6 sc, dec, turn = 8 sts
Mark 1st and
Row 16: 8 sc, turn = 8 sts last sts of ROW MARKERS:
this row line Be sure to leave the row markers in
4 dec, turn = 4 sts
place.
Row 17 through Row 19: 4 sc, turn = 4 sts You’ll use the row markers to map out
4 sc, turn = 4 sts where certain pieces will need to line
up for the assembly process.
Row 20: 4 sc, turn = 4 sts
2 dec, turn = 2 sts You can do this after crocheting all the
body pieces or as you go as I marked
throughout the pattern.
Bind off with short tail. Tail will be hidden in body during the I’ve also listed them before assembling
assembly process. if you lose a marker in the process.

11
© Emmy Scanga 2020

FRONT FOOT Make 2 HIND FOOT Make 2

*In body color -- crochet in the round* *In body color -- crochet in the round*
Rnd 1: MC 8 sc = 8 sts Rnd 1: MC 8 sc = 8 sts
Rnd 2: sc around = 8 sts Rnd 2: sc around = 8 sts
Rnd 3: inc around = 16 sts Rnd 3: inc around = 16 sts
Rnd 4 and Rnd 5: sc around = 16 sts FIG Rnd 4: (sc, inc) repeat around = 24 sts
19 Rnd 6: 2 dec, 12 sc = 14 sts Rnd 5 through Rnd 9: sc around = 24 sts
Rnd 7: sc around = 14 sts Rnd 10: (4 sc, dec) repeat around = 20 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dec, 10 sc = 12 sts Rnd 11 through Rnd 13: sc around = 20 sts
Rnd 9 through Rnd 15: sc around = 12 sts Rnd 14: (3 sc, dec) repeat around = 16 sts
Slst. Bind off with tail for sewing. FIG 20 Rnd 15 through Rnd 17: sc around = 16 sts
Rnd 18: (6 sc, dec) repeat around = 14 sts
Rnd 19: sc around = 14 sts
Rnd 20: sc, 4 inc, sc, 4 dec = 14 sts
Slst. Bind off with tail for sewing. FIG 21 & 22

Make sure you lightly stuff

all four feet. You can also
add some bead filling in
panty hose to each end-
that’ll give them more
weight. I didn’t in these but
you make it your own!
12
© Emmy Scanga 2020

TAIL
*In body color -- crochet in the round*
Rnd 1: MC 8 sc = 8 sts
Rnd 2: sc around = 8 sts
Rnd 3: inc around = 16 sts
Rnd 4: (sc, inc) repeat around = 24 sts
Rnd 5 and Rnd 6: sc around = 24 sts
Rnd 7: sc, skip 7 sts- push these stitches away from you so they bulge
to the inside FIG 23, slst = 2 sts the last 15 sts are unused. FIG 24
Bind off with tail for sewing onto body. No need to stuff.

Prepping for assembly….

Before you start the assembly process you’ll want to place
markers- pins, scraps of yarns or store-bought stitch markers will H7
work here- at the first and last stitch on each of the following
body part (if you didn’t add them as you created the pieces) FIG
B1
25: T16
B2
HEAD: Row 7 (H7) T15
BODY: Row 1 (B1)
Row 2 (B2) (photo shows B3 but it NEEDS to be B2) T13
B9
Row 9 (B9) T11
Row 11 (B11) B11
TUMMY: Row 1 (T1)
Row 11 (T11)
Row 13 (T13)
T1
Row 15 (T15)
Row 16 (T16) 13
© Emmy Scanga 2020

I have videos...
In response to my customers, I have started creating Instagram live videos to help
with the assembly process.
PART
It’s a real time process of assembly of the pride themed Mallow I made in June of
ONE
2020.

You’ll hear me interact with those that were there for live, but it is available for all
to rewatch at any time! PART
TWO
I give the most detailed instructions in the pattern, but I realize some people are
visual learners and might find the videos most useful.

14
© Emmy Scanga 2020

ASSEMBLY
NOSE: Fold the very first row of the
head. Sew the first and last stitch
together and sew together the next 3
stitches. FIG 26 & 27

INSERT your needle into the point of

the fold FIG 28 and sew into the last
stitch you sewed creating a Y shape.
FIG 29 Repeat with each top point of
the Y. Secure with a knot.

HEAD: The very first bit of sewing is

attaching the rest of the head to the
body. Line the H7 marker and the B1
marker and sew from the opening
under the ear to the H7/B1 markers.
FIG 30 through FIG 33

EARS: Attach the ears to the openings

in the head FIG 34 & 35. For floppy ears-
the insides of the ears will lay onto the
body FIG 36. For upright ears- face the
inner ears towards the front or to the
outside.
15
© Emmy Scanga 2020

ASSEMBLY
HIND FEET: Bring the last outer
stitches of the body to the T1
marker on the tummy FIG 37 & 38.

You will be attaching the feet to

the last row of the body on each
side of the tummy. I use the tail of
the foot to attach to the body. FIG
38 through FIG 41

TUMMY TO BODY: Line up the

markers starting from the hind feet
FIG 42:
B11 to T11
B9 to T13
B3 to T15
B1/H7 to T16

The lower portions will align

smoothly, but the “bump” or “gap”
made from the body for the upper
arms is intentional FIG 43.

You should have that gap for the

front feet if everything is aligned
correctly.

Make sure you line up both sides

and, if needed, tie or pin them
together to prevent misaligned
markers as you sew. FIG 44

16
© Emmy Scanga 2020

ASSEMBLY
Sewing direction is up to you. I HIGHLY suggest the
assembly live video to see how I assembled here.
I used two long strands of yarn to sew from the
hind feet FIG 45 through FIG 47, up to the first front
leg FIG 48, only attaching 4 stitches of the front leg
to the tummy FIG 49 (this will leave the bump in
the body and back of the arm open) up to the neck
and chin.

--- Make sure at the neck where the 3 markers

meet up that you gather all three into the same
stitch on the tummy (H7, B1 and T16). FIG 50 ---

I made sure that the last two stitches of the tummy

lined up with the first row of the head FIG 51. I then
sew down from the chin to the neck, attached the
inner of the second front leg and continued down
to the other hind foot.

I took this process slow, ensuring that my markers

remained lined up… I tied some of the markers
together so they wouldn’t shift as much.

You can use two strands to sew starting at each

foot meeting at the chin OR you can use two
strands of yarn and start from the chin and sew to
the feet. Use whichever method is most
comfortable for you. 17
© Emmy Scanga 2020

f f ... Stuff
Stu ... Stuff...

Stuff your rabbit lightly… the more stuffing you add the
stiffer it’ll be. If you want a lil weight, some bead filling in
the feet and front legs are great to add some “floppiness”.
I filled to ensure there was enough to keep the shape and
made sure that the head had the MOST filling as it helps
with face shaping at the end. FIG 52

FRONT FEET: Using the tail of the front leg, attach the
outer arm to the body. FIG 53
This is your last chance to stuff- make sure you are happy
with the firmness before closing.

HIND FOOT TACKING (optional)- I like my Mallow the

Rabbit sitting so to create more stability I tack the heel of
the foot (center backside) to the tummy (T1) markers. FIG 54

TAIL: My tail works more as a kickstand for my sitting

rabbit. Before sewing I pin it in the place that will help
Mallow from leaning too far forward or falling backwards.
Otherwise, find a spot you like between the hind legs and
sew in place. FIG 55

FEET DETAIL (optional): To create a flat foot I use pieces of

scrap yarn to give the look of toes. Simply INSERT through
the foot completely FIG 56, pick up a single stitch at the
edge to keep it in place so it doesn’t slide off the foot FIG 57,
then tie ends together FIG 58. Repeat until you have the
amount of toes you desire. FIG 59

18
© Emmy Scanga 2020
D C
FACE SHAPING
E B
PINS A, B, C, D, E, & F- These are the points in
which you will be stringing yarn (in body color) to
create the face shaping. FIG 60 & 61
F A

INSERT needle at point A (which is slightly off

center to the right) and EXIT at point B -under the
right eye. FIG 62 D C
INSERT needle at point C -the inner corner of the
E B
right eye and EXIT at point D -the inner corner of
the left eye. FIG 63
F A
INSERT needle at point E -under the left eye and
EXIT at point F (slightly off center to the left,
should be one or two stitches between A and F).
FIG 64

You’ll have something similar to FIG 65 with the

ends of the yarn under the chin.

Pull both ends as tight as you like to get the look

you want. I pull rather tight. Tie the ends
together.

String both ends into your needle, INSERT needle

back into point F and EXIT to the back of the
head, pull to hide knot.
19
© Emmy Scanga 2020

FACE SHAPING
To create more of a bunny head shape, you’ll take
another piece of scrap yarn in the body color. FIG
66

INSERT needle at the outer corner of the eye and

EXIT at the outer corner of the other eye. FIG 67

INSERT needle one stitch closer to the ears away

from the eyes and nose FIG 68 and EXIT at the
same point on the other eye- again one stitch
from the very first insert stitch. FIG 69

You’ll have something similar to FIG 70 with the

ends of the yarn on the outer corner of one eye.

Pull both ends as tight as you like to get the look

you want FIG 71. I pull tight enough that they eyes
face more outward than forward, but do what
looks best to you.

Tie the ends together.

String both ends into your needle, INSERT needle

back into point F and EXIT to the back of the
head, pull to hide knot.

20
© Emmy Scanga 2020

Finishing touches... NOSE DETAILS: Using thread or

the accent yarn- INSERT at the
head/tummy seam and EXIT
All of these are totally optional but can add all
between the eye and the nose.
sorts of character to your Mallow. You can do
INSERT on the other side of the
some or all of these- or even more that I don’t
nose and EXIT where the nose
have listed here!
was gathered of row 1 on the
I highly encourage you to make it your own!
head. Be sure to catch the
thread going across the nose to
create the Y-shape.
EAR DETAILS:
Tie the ends and hide knot in
If you are using
the head.
one color you
can add a little FUR DETAILS: Of
blush to the course- my favorite
inner ears. touch is BRUSHY,
BRUSHY! Using a
bristle brush or a pet
brush you can brush
out acrylic or wool
yarns to get that fluffy
bunny look.

EYE DETAILS: You can add very

watered down acrylic paint or
eyeshadow around the eyes. OR you
can use accent yarn to create that
almond eye shape typical of most
rabbits. 21
© Emmy Scanga 2021

Congratulations!!
I hope by this point you can’t stop snuggling, cuddling and hugging your
Mallow!
I can’t wait to see yours!
Whatever you do, I’d love to see it! Use the link below to find me on my
website, Instagram, Twitch, Facebook and more.

Follow the Yarn... … to connect with me!

Don’t forget to tag me or use

#embermischief so I can see your
creations!

Thank you for purchasing a copy of

RESOURCES AND LINKS this pattern. This pattern is
intended for personal use. All
photos and text are subject to
copyright © 2019-2021 Emmy
Increase (sc) video Scanga. Please do not redistribute
Magic Circle video
Decrease (invisible) video in any form including text and
Single crochet video photos and other translations
Bind off & Sew Closed video
without express permission. All
Slst video Attaching Limbs
Rights Reserved. Those that have
Chain bump video Using Stitch Markers purchased this pattern may sell
finished items, however a link to
my store plus credit must be
Click to see a video given. Happy Stitching!!
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