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Fashion As Culture

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Fashion As The Mirror Of History

Origin of Clothing
Clothing is fiber and textile material worn on the body.
Clothing serves as: safety during hazardous activities such as hiking and cooking. protects from rough surfaces, rash-causing plants, insect bites, splinters, thorns and prickles by providing a barrier between the skin and the environment. insulate against cold or hot conditions. hygienic barrier, keeping infectious and toxic materials away from the body. provides protection from harmful UV radiation

Cultural aspects of Clothing


Clothing performs a range of social and cultural functions, such as individual, occupational and sexual differentiation, and social status.

clothing reflect standards of modesty, religion, gender, and social status.

Gender Differentiation Social status Religion

Gender Differentiation In most cultures, gender differentiation of clothing is considered appropriate for men and women.

Social Status:

In some societies, clothing may be used to indicate rank or status.


feather cloaks and palaoa, or carved whale teeth in traditional Hawaiian society. In China, before establishment of the republic, only the emperor could wear yellow. History provides many examples of elaborate sumptuary laws that regulated what people could wear. Social status is instead signaled by the purchase of rare or luxury items (costly brands) that are limited by cost to those with wealth or status.

In some cultures, sumptuary laws regulate what men and women are required to wear.
Islam requires women to wear more modest forms of attire, usually hijab. What qualifies as "modest" varies in different Muslim societies. However, women are usually required to cover more of their bodies. Articles of clothing Muslim women wear for modesty range from the headscarf to the burqa.

Religion:

Muslim men traditionally wear white robes and a cap during prayers and women are required to wear long, loose, non-transparent outer dress when stepping out of the home. Sikhs wear a turban.
Can be worn everyday as a marker for special religious status. Unstitched cloth pieces which signifies unified and complete devotion to the task at hand, with no digression. The cleanliness of religious dresses indiactes purity. Priests officiating in the Temple had very specific garments.

Equality Irrespective of race Religion

Professionalism

Dress Code

Unity

Industrial Revolution

Machinery fast took the place of the old forms of hand-work. Invention of sewing machine, handloom, dyes.

Clothing and Textile


Clothing became the means through which the new business community (merchants and craftsmen) could affirm its social, political and economic status over traditional dominating classes. Sumptuary laws, whereby appearance was a public decision, not a personal choice. These laws dictated what could be worn, and by whom. Actresses and celebrated dressmakers were beginning to have an influence on costume. Magazines of fashion were published in France and England which give an exact record of the materials used and the changes in the styles.

R O M A N T I C

-Advent of sewing machine


-Increased output in clothing manufacture -People began to actively indulge in fashion for it's own sake -Fashionable Women's dress became incredibly over decorated -Men's fashion becomes a series of undecorated black tubes
-Women's dress grew more and more cumbersome and impractical -Proved a low point for women in Western history

ERA 1830-40

Era of the Hoop


-The advent of the Bloomer Costume -Men were appalled, and tried to put a stop to the fashion by decrying them from newspapers and the pulpit, ridiculing them

-Men's dress found the formalizing of the suit into a uniform worn by men in all strata of income in varying degrees of quality.

FASHION TIMELINE

Here begins the story of CHANEL

CHANEL
French company ,1909 Paris head quaters Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer, grandsons of Pierre Wertheimer, who was an early business partner of the couturire Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel. Chanel S.A. is a high fashion brand that specializes in haute couture and ready-to-wear clothes, luxury goods and fashion accessories. In her youth, Gabrielle Chanel gained the nickname Coco from her time as a chanteuse.

Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel

The classic black-and-white palette, menswear-inspired design and simple elegance of the Chanel revered today are what made her a rebel in the 1920s and 30s. Rejected a lot of the feminine styles of her day created a kind of androgynous style very powerfully modern As a fashion designer, Coco Chanel catered to womens taste for elegance in dress, with blouses and suits, trousers and dresses, and jewellery of simple design, that replaced the opulent, over-designed, and constrictive clothes and accessories of 19thcentury fashion.

The First World War (191418) affected European fashion through scarcity of materials, the mobilisation of women. Chanel had opened a large dress shop at 31 in Paris.

During the Second World War (193945), Coco Chanel closed shop at Maison Chanel leaving only jewellry and parfumerie for sale

Arrested thinking that she was in collaboration with the nazi In 1953, upon returning to France from Switzerland, Coco Chanel found the fashion business enamoured of the New Look (1947), by Christian Dior. In 1953, Chanel collaborated with jeweler Robert Goossens; he was to design jewelry (bijouterie and gemstone) to complement the fashions of the House of Chanel; notably, long-strand necklaces of black pearls and of white pearls, which high contrast softened the severe design of the knitted-wool Chanel Suit Later, in 1965, Pierres son, Jacques Wertheimer, assumed his fathers management of the parfumerie. Coco Chanel died on 10 January 1971, at the age of 87. She was still designing at the time of her death Alain Wertheimer, son of Jacques Wertheimer, assumed control of Chanel S.A. in 1974.

The postCoco Era


In 1981, Chanel launched Antaeus, an eau de toilette for men. In 1983 Karl Lagerfeld took over as chief designer for Chanel. In 1994, Chanel had a net profit equivalent to 67 million on the sale of 570 million in ready-to-wear clothes and was the most profitable French fashion house. In 2002, Chanel launched the Chance perfume .In July 2002, a jewelry and watch outlet opened

Fragrance Perfumes Cologen

Makeup and Skincare Fine Jewellery Watches

"Fashion passes, style remains.

Ancient Times ( Vedic ages to Islam invasion 11th century AD)


Unstiched clothes wrapping included sari and dhoti.
Men would wear three pieces of cloth. Uttoriya on upper body, neebi as underwear and the dhoti .For women, they mostly would wear one or two long pieces.

Indian Clothing
Clothing in India varies from region to region depending on the ethnicity, geography, climate and cultural traditions of the people of that region Ethnic charm is exuded in simple outfits in India.

Islamic age ( 11th century till late 19th)


Stitched clothes made inroads for males and for Muslim females. Purdah for women ( veils) was introduced in regular Indian family as well. The sari happens to be the most versatile drape with its amazing styles of draping and design. The sari is the traditional dress of India which also modifies as per material, drape and style with each region.

WOMENs Clothing
Ghagra Choli (lehenga choli)

Sari

Salwar Kameez

Pattu Pavadai/ Reshme Langa

Churidaar Kurta

Mundum Neriyathum

Mens Clothing
For men, traditional clothes are the Sherwani, Lungi, Kurta and Dhoti or Pajama. Also, most recently Pant and shirt have also been accepted as traditional Indian dress by the Government of India.
pagadis., phetas, caps, nehru coats

Modern age ( late 19th to current)


Males adopted western clothing, while women picked up the modern way of draping saree.
Western clothing made its foray into the Indian society during the times of the British Raj. Indian professionals opted to wear western clothing due to its relative comfort or due to regulations set then. By the turn of the 21st century, both western and Indian clothing had intermingled creating a unique style of clothing for the typical urban Indian population. Women started wearing more comfortable clothing and exposure to international fashion led to a fusion of western and Indian styles of clothing. Following the economic liberalisation, more jobs opened up, and created a demand for formal wear.

Is Western wear a problem?

Westernization or modernization
Modernization takes place in thoughts not in looks. Then why westernization is termed modern? Its recent West = Developed = Modern is the notion. Considered Secular Denotes a status symbol

Indian Clothing Vs Western Clothing in Indian Context

Values Cultural History Exposing is wrong.

Universal Standards Comforftable Practical Accept good things from West Culture is not a law

Conclusion
Globalization Fill the generation Gaps Careful according to social standards- loopholes in our society. Dont just copy. Finally ITs your personal Freedom

THANK YOU

Group
Apurva Nagarajan Swathi Srivasto Krishnaveni Surabhi Kriti Singh

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