APPAREL INDUSTRY

CONSTRUCTION
METHODS
 KEY TERMS
 Lockstitch machine  Lapped seams
 Overlook machine  Bound seam
 Blind hem machine  Flat seams
 Buttonhole machine  Edge finished seams
 Embroidery machine  Ornamental seams
 Stitches per inch (SPI)  Shaping devices
 Classes of stitches  Kinds of pleats
 Chain stitch  Kinds of tucks
 Cover stitch  Kind of facings
 Lock stitch  Kinds of sleeves
 Stay stitching  Kinds of collars
 Directional stitching  kinds of cuffs and plackets
 Under stitching  Kinds of waistbands
 Top stitching  Kinds of pockets
 Edge stitching  Zipper
 Stitch-in-the-ditch  Hems
 Classes of seams  Product engineering- operational
 Super imposed seams breakdown
 EQUIPMENT USED IN APPAREL
MANUFACTURING

 Industrial Lockstitch swing Machine-commonly used for simple construction.

 Blind Hem Machine-used for hemming.

 Flat lock Machine-used for seaming knit fabrics.

 Overlook Machine-great for knit fabric construction.

 Buttonhole Machine-used for making buttonholes.

 Embroidery Machine-used for embroidery and monogramming.

 TYPE OF MACHINE
Overlook Machine Embroidery Machine Buttonhole Machine

Single/Multi Needle Industrial

Flat lock Machine Lockstitch Swing Machine Blind Hem Machine
 INDUSTRAIL SEWING FACTS

 Industrial sewing machines can sew faster than home sewing machines.

 Industrial machines sew up to 6500 stitches per minute (SPI).

A home sewing machine sew 250 to 1000 (SPI).
 FACTORS TO CONSIDER BEFORE GARMENTS
CONSTRUCTION

Prior to sewing fashion professionals must understand basic machine and

equipment changes need to be made based on the design and fabrication they are

working with.

Consider…

 Stitching per inch

 Needle selection

 Thread selection
 (SPI) STITCHING PER INCH

 SPI, means stitch per inch in garment manufacturing. It essentially decides the
strength of our garment.

 It’s calculating is simple. How many stitches does your garment have per inch?
More the number, the better.

 For regular jeans pant, we use 6 to 08 SPI. That means, essentially there are 6 to 8
stitches per inch for stitch.
 SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE
CONSIDERATION

 Needle Sizes:
Needle Size Fabrication

60/8 Silk, Batiste, Rayon, Sheer Fabrics

70/10 Chambray, Sheeting, Gingham, Quilting Cotton

80/12 Chambray, Sheeting, Gingham, Medium Weight Cotton

90/14 Chambray, Sheeting, Gingham, Quilting Cotton

100/16 Canvas, Denim, Upholstery Fabric

 Needle Type Fabrication
Sharp or Sharp point, safest for everyday regular use on most woven
Universal fabrics.
Ball point Rounded point, best for knits, mesh, and interlock knits.
Denim Heavier duty, best for denim, ducking, and canvas.
Wedge points or
Sharp knife like tip, best for leather and vinyl.
Leather
Metallic or Especially made for metallic, rayon, or acrylic thread.
Embroidery Smaller needle head
For heavier top stitching such as buttonhole twist, or if using
Top Stitching
double thread.
Twin & Triple Great for pin tucking, decorative stitching
Needles

Stretch Needles Great for spandex, active wear knits and swimwear.

Micro point Sharper point, great for fine dense fabric, ribbon.
 CLASSES OF STITCHES
Six classes of stitch type
Stitch
Name Typical Uses
class

100 Single Thread Chain Stitch 1. Decorative, western wear, used at hems

200 Hand Stitch

1. Plain-used to set pockets, zippers

300 Hand Stitch 2. Zigzag-used for athletic wear,
decorative, buttonholes, bar tacks on jeans

1. Decorative stitching on belts.

400 Multi Thread Chain Stitch 2. 2. parallel rows of stitches or lapped side
seams of woven shirts and jeans.

500 Over edge and Safety Stitch 1. Shirts, jackets, blouses and jeans.

600 Cover Stitch or Flat Seam 1. Knits and lingerie

Stitch
 COMMON INDUSTRIAL
SEWING MACHINE STITCHES
Chainstitch :
 Stitch that interloops the needle thread(s) with a bottom looper thread on the
underside of the seam.
 This stitch is used on most seams in woven apparel.

Coverstitch :
 Stitch that is often used to seam knitwear.
 it consists of at least two needle thread, a looper thread and a top thread passing
over the edge of the material.

Lockstitch :
 This is the most common stitch formed on industrial sewing machines.
 A stitch formed by inter locking needle threads with a bobbin thread.
 CLASSES OF SEAMS AND SEAM FINISHES
In the Apparel Industry seam types are categorized
according to their structure.
Class of Seam Name

SS Superimposed seam

LS Lapped Seams

BS Bound (Binding) Seams

FS Flat (Butted) Seam

EF Edge Finished Seams

OS Ornamental Seams

 Standardized System to help with communicating between countries.

 SUPER IMPOSED SEAMS (SS)
 Most common seam construction.

 Created by sewing two or more layers of fabric together.

Example: plain seam

 Variations Include:

 French Seam

 Double Stitched Seam

 Piped Seam
 LAPPED SEAMS (LS)

 Created by overlapping two or more

pieces of fabric.

Some examples include:

 Flat- felled seam- sewing sides of

jeans.

 Welt seam- strong than a plain

seam, can be used on thicker fabrics.
 LAPPED SEAMS (LS)

 Lapped seam- common with suede and leather

 BOUND SEAMS (BS)

 Made to finish and edge of a

garment.

 Is one piece of fabric

encompassing the raw edge of
another piece of fabric.

 Example- Neckline of a Crew

T-shirt
 FLAT SEAM (FS)

Construction by having

two pieces of fabric meet

at the edge.

 Coverstitch is used to join

or sew the fabric pieces

together with no overlap.

 Creates a flat seam.

 Edge Finished Seams (EF)-
 This seam is used to prevent
edges from rolling of curling.

 Great for knit fabrics.

 Ornamental Seam (OS)-

 This seam is made using machines
with zigzag capability. It is used on a
plain seam on woven or knit fabric.
 SEAM DIMENSIONS

The seam length, width, and depth:

 Effect garment quality performance, and costs.

 SEAM ENGINEERING

 Seam Length- How long the seam is.

 Sean width- How wide… Seam

allowance typically finished
between ¼“to ½”.

 Seam Depth- thickness or flatness of

a seam. Effects appearance and
comport.
 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SET-IN SLEEVES

LABEL
TUCKS

PRINCESS SEAMS
BUTTONHOLE
 DARTS

 Single pointed

 Double pointed

 Commonly used at bust

lines and waist.

TUCKS

Pin Tucks
 Blind Tucks Space Tucks

Tucks are constructed by folding and stitching vertically down the fold.
 PLEATS

Knife Box Inverted

Pleats are constructed by folding fabric typically at the waist to control fullness and create
design ease.
 GATHERS

Gathers are constructed by easing fabric to created soft folds at the waist, neckline and
sleeve caps.
PRINCESS SEAMS
 FACINGS

 Extended- incorporated into

The front pattern piece.

 Fitted- separate pattern

Piece that will be cut and
attached.

 Bias- thin strip fabric cut on

the bias for armhole and
neck edge.
 SLEEVES
Raglan Sleeve- sewn with
a diagonal seam.

Kimono Sleeve- sleeve and Set-In Sleeve- attached

body are one piece. at the armhole
 COLLARS

Flat Collar- lies flat against the

Garment next edge.

Rolled Collar- stands up slightly

And rolls aver and around the neck
edge; found in most button down shirts.

Standing Collar- upright band attached

To the sown shirts.
 WAISTBANDS

Casings- are used to enclose drawstring or elastic and often found in sportswear.

Example: pull on paint or skirt.

Waistband- Interfaced attachment used with zipper and hook and bar fasteners at

the edge of dress pants and fitted skirts.

 Facing- curved piece of fabric attached and folded to the inside of a garment.
 POCKETS
Common pockets:

 Front Hip- angular pocket, commonly found on

denim pants, and shirts.

 Inseam- hidden pockets attached at the side seam.

 patch- attached to the outside of a garment. May

be made from the same fabric as the garment or

a contrasting fabric.
 FASTENERS: ZIPPERS

 Centered- two rows of stitching visible on the

outside of a garment.

 Lapped- one row of visible stitches on the found

in dress Commonly found in dress pants and skirts.

 Fly front- large lap in the front of a pair of jeans or

casual pants or skirts.

 Invisible- no visible stitching on the outside of

garment.
 HEMS
 Hems are typically 1 ¼”

 Hand and/or Machine Hems commonly used in R-T-W garments.

Hand Machine

Catch stitch- expensive, labor Machine Blind- used on dress

intensive pant, skirt etc

Top Stitch- used on casual

sportswear, Jeans.

Narrow Rolled Hem- used on light

or sheer weight fabrics, hem of
skirts, tops etc.