Shaam-e-Sarhad, Hodka

A Community-based Tourism Initiative

Seema Bhatt
February 2015
CREDITS

Citation: Bhatt, S. 2015. Shaam-e-Sarhad, A Community-based Tourism Initiative, Hodka.

Kalpavriksh, Pune, India

Author: Seema Bhatt

Published by:
Kalpavriksh
5, Shree Dutta Krupa, 908, Deccan Gymkhana, Pune 411004
www.kalpavriksh.org

Date of First Publication: February, 2015

Cover Photo: Seema Bhatt

No Copyright: No copyright is claimed on this work. You are free to copy, translate and
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This case study is an outcome of the Vikalp Sangam: Documentation and Confluence of
Alternatives in India project initiated by Kalpavriksh and funded by Oxfam, India. It is part of
a larger process towards exploring alternative frameworks and practices in India, that
demonstrate ecological sustainability, social well-being and justice, direct democracy and
economic democracy. To know more, see www.vikalpsangam.org . To join a list-serve for
discussions on the subject, contact anurivelihoods@gmail.com .

Design by: Tanya Majmudar

Photos: All pictures by Seema Bhatt unless otherwise mentioned.

Contents
1 | Introduction

2| UNDP’s Endogenous Tourism Project 3

| The Banni Area of Kachchh

4 | Banni: Changing Lives, Livelihoods and Landscapes

5 | Hodka

6 | The Genesis of Shaam-e-Sarhad at Hodka

7 | Shaam-e-Sarhad Today

8 | Impact of the Hodka Initiative: A Larger Context

9 | Challenges

10 | Key Factors for Success/Core Values

11| Shaam-e-Sarhad: Challenging the Dominant Tourism Model

Literature Cited
Acknowledgements
My sincere thanks to Salaambhai for being a wonderful resource person and guide for the
region and Sushma Iyengar for walking me through the history of the project. Many thanks
to all at Shaam-e-Sarhad and the wonderful people of Hodka for their warm hospitality and
many cups of tea! Thanks to Mamata Pandya for putting the case study in the right
perspective and all my friends at Kalpavriksh who gave me some important insights.
 priority. One of the initiatives to support this
1 | Introduction was the Endogenous Tourism Project (ETP), a
Tourism is today recognized as the world’s joint venture between the Ministry of
fastest growing industry and in recent years, Tourism, Government of India (MoT, GoI) and
has come to play a significant role in the the United Nations Development Programme
economies of developing countries. Tourism (UNDP).The term ‘Endogenous’ quite literally
has the potential to provide economic, means, ‘originating from within’. This four-
environmental and social benefits. However, year project (2003-2007) involved
recent trends within tourism development the selection of 36 rural sites as pilot projects
globally and specifically in India raise several for rural destination development in the
concerns about the adverse impacts of context of tourism. Poverty eradication, one
tourism. Tourism destinations are facing of the objectives of the Millennium
increasing pressures on their natural, social Development Goals (MDG) was also the
and economic environments. A large guiding principle for this initiative.UNDP
percentage of economic benefits from funded the capacity- building component
tourism tend to be garnered by people away while the rural infrastructure
from the destination and only a fraction improvement was supported under the
trickles down to local communities. Tourism is Government of India’s Rural Tourism
thus characterized by a high ‘leakage’ rate of Scheme. The Incredible India marketing
tourism receipts. Unregulated tourism is also campaign launched in 2002 by the MoT, GoI
known to degrade habitats and had by then successfully catapulted India into
cause pollution of land and water. market. To takethe global
this tourism
further, the
The growing
Mass tourism has often caused ETP project was established with
realization of the ill the objective that it would help
the exploitation of women and effects of mass
children. It has in many places open up the rural market and also
tourism has led to a benefit rural communities. As
also resulted in the privatization
of common resources and
conscious effort to commented by the then
displacement of people to make look at alternate Secretary, Ministry of Tourism,
way for hotels and resorts. models of tourism. “Special thrust should
be
imparted to rural tourism, where
The growing realization of the ill sizeable assets of our culture and
effects of mass tourism has led to a conscious natural wealth exist”.
effort to look at alternate models of tourism.
One such is community-based tourism. This It was envisaged that particularly women and
kind of tourism has gained momentum unemployed youth could leverage their skills
globally, since it looks at aspects of towards income generation with the help of
community development, poverty alleviation the Panchayati Raj Institutions (PRIs) and Non
and conservation of the natural and cultural Government Organizations (NGOs). Further,
heritage. In developing countries, it tends to that by showcasing local culture and the
focus on rural and biodiversity-significant surrounding environment, tourism would help
areas. in enhancing community pride and reviving
dying cultural traditions. The underlying
principle of the initiative was, “creating
2 | The United Nations income generation strategies that leverage
Development Programme’s pre-existing local skills, is therefore in
(UNDP) Endogenous ‘endogenous’ nature. Thus, both rural and
communities tourists would stand to
Tourism Project (ETP) benefit from the initiative”. Endogenous or
Village or rural tourism that showcases rural ‘transformative’ tourism aimed to broaden
culture and brings economic benefits to the the traveller’s horizon by transforming
communities, received a major thrust under perspectives and promoting a mutual
th
India’s 10 Five Year Plan and was accorded

1
environment of appreciation and learning established in the Banni area of Kachchh in
between the local community and visitors1. Gujarat.
Under the ETP, significant emphasis was given This case study provides an overview of the
to community owned and managed tourism. context of the project and reviews the
The key stakeholders were meant to be process, progress and outcomes of the
community members including women, initiative, and examines it particularly as an
youth, and artisans. Village level institutions alternate model to mass tourism.
consisting of these stakeholders were to play
a key role in decision making and project 3 | The Banni Area of
implementation. External support of the state
and national governments, NGOs, and the Kachchh3
travel trade was considered crucial for both Banni extends across an area of 3847 sq. km
the implementation and sustainability of the covering about 8.4 per cent of total
project. The role of the MoT, GoI was to geographical area of the Kachchh district. The
facilitate linkages between various sectors following lines written by the famous
and partners. Assistance of state Kachchhi poet Duleray Karani aptly portray
governments was sought for the initial rural the region:
selection of locations as also the

photo: www.bannigrassland.org
maintenance and development of
The lush green Banni
infrastructure at selected locations. Specific
Skirting the Rann of Kachchh
NGOs were selected to help with capacity
Where wells burst with water
building based on their presence at the local
Green grasses bloom in
level, acceptability by the local community,
heavenly gardens
skills and field experience. Tour operators
Robust, muscular are the cows and buffaloes
were seen as key for the marketing of the
No dearth of milk and butter
sites and facilitating package tours to the rural
Where the sun rises
destinations2. One of the projects was
With the churning of buttermilk

1
Pro-Poor Tourism Development - The case of Endogenous
Tourism Project, India 3
Background material about the region has been taken from the
May 2012 11:30 | Written by SudipDuttagupta at brochure on Hodka, Kachchh brought out under the UNDP
http://scstsenvis.nic.in/ project. Compiled and written by MansiAnand. Documentation
support by PachchhamSetu
2
Mott MacDonald (2007). Evaluation study of rural tourism
scheme. Retrieved
from http://tourism.gov.in/survey/ruraltourism.pdf

2
The pastureland of Banni, located on the sub-communities are the Meghwals and
northern border of the Bhuj district was once Vadhas. There are several views surrounding
believed to be a part of the great Rann of the ancestry of the Banni Maldharis. One view
Kachchh. The name Banni is said to be derived is that that they were originally of
from the Kachchhi word, Bannai that literally Hindu/Rajput origin and subsequently
means ‘made up’. Banni has been formed by converted to Islam. A contrary view suggests
the sedimentation of alluvial soil brought by that the Maldhari Jats originated from the
the rivers flowing from the north during the farmers of Iran. The physical appearance of
monsoon floods, over centuries. Over two this community seems to support this view.
thirds of Banni have high levels of salinity. Research by German scholars suggests that
Banni, at one time was considered one of the the Jats were originally from Germany.
finest and largest grasslands in Asia with more Legend has it that German ships had crossed
than 40 species of grasses. However, over the sea where the Banni exists today.
time this diversity has been reduced to only Circumstances forced them to stay in Banni
about 10-15 species. Banni still continues to and eventually settle there. A Jat tradition
support a range of floral and faunal species. actually seems to support this theory. The
Seasonal wetlands in the area support a large Fakrani Jats in particular make an offering of a
number of migratory birds. Over 273 species of small boat to their relatives during the fair at
birds have been reported from Banni, out of Peer Savala Pir (a Jat religious place). It is
which 107 are migratory species (GIDE 2002). hypothesized that this may be related to a
similar German tradition.
The primary residents of this area are the
Maldharis (cattle breeders) or Baniyaras who Banni has 34 villages inhabited by
all practice Islam. There are 15-20 Maldhari approximately 5,500 families and a population
Muslim casts in Banni. The various sub- of 29, 509 (2001 census). These villages are
communities that inhabit the Banni include, called Jheels that translates into ‘places with
Jats, Raysipotra, Saiyads, Mutava, Node, potable water’.
Hingorja, Bambha, Kurar, Sumra, Juneja,
Bhatti, Halepotra, and Khatris. The Hindu

Kachchh’s Rich Livestock Diversity

Kachchh, with Banni as one of the largest natural grassland’s in Asia is home to
a considerable diversity of livestock that is uniquely adapted to the harsh living
conditions of the area. Some of the key breeds are: Kankrej Cattle, Banni
Buffalo, Kachchhi Goat, Kachchhi Camel, Marwari and Patanwadi Sheep. The
livestock hold a key place in the economy of the region since it provides milk,
milk products, meat, wool and draft power. In 2010, the Banni Buffalo was
registered
regis as India’s 11th buffalo breed, a
significant achievement, since this is
indeed the first time that a breed
developed and conserved by a local
community has gained national official
recognition.
www.sahjeevan.org
www.bannigrassland.org

3
4 | Banni: Changing al, 2011).

Lives, Livelihoods and The earthquake of 2001 with its epicentre in

Kachchh, changed landscapes and resulted in
Landscapes fatalities, damage and destruction. Post this
Banni has been formed from sediments disaster, global support for rehabilitation and
deposited by the Indus and other rivers over reconstruction was tremendous. Several
centuries. It is believed that before the organizations were established during this
Kachchh earthquake of 1819, the river Indus period and many innovative approaches used
flowed through the Banni and rice cultivation towards the restoration of the region. As a
was common amongst local farmers. result, local communities were exposed to a
However the earthquake resulted in the river range of outside agencies and this has
changing its course to flow through Sindh changed the perspective of these
that is now located in Pakistan (Thacker communities, both positively as well as
2002). There are several factors affecting the negatively.
Banni grasslands. Although, sediments from There are also several social factors that
rivers resulted in making Banni one of the determine the access and use of these
finest grassland areas in Asia, the region is grasslands by the pastoralist community.
now drought prone and the pastoralists need Institutions established by the twenty two
to move out their cattle each time drought Maldhari pastoralist communities have
occurs. The main source of income for the regulated the access and use of the grasslands
pastoralists here comes from the sale of over the years. However this is not clear cut
livestock, milk products, wool and and there is continued ambiguity over access
handicrafts. However, it appears that the and use issues between the Forest
traditional livelihoods are changing from Department, the Revenue Department and
livestock breeding to livestock grazing4. the Pastoralist Association. Conflicting issues
Invasion of Prosopis juliflora has considerably on how this grassland should be used are
changed the landscape. This non native tree prevalent. These include: conserving the
was planted here by the Gujarat Forest grasslands for their unique biodiversity; an
Department to combat salinity ingress and area for the production of charcoal that feeds
aridity in the region. A ban was actually the power plants that have come up in the
imposed on the cutting of this tree in the region and finally to sustain the area for the
1980s. It covered about 10 per cent of the land livestock breeds and resulting use5.
area then. However, by the 1990s, it
had spread over 40 per cent of the land.
Concerned that this tree was causing
the destruction of the local vegetation
and degrading the grasslands, the state
Forest Department lifted the ban on
cutting in early 2004. Prosopis was used
to make charcoal locally and it was
hoped that besides clearing the area,
cutting of this tree will enhance local
livelihoods. However, this decision
unfortunately backfired. Trees were cut
down indiscriminately resulting in
severe degradation of the habitat. The
ban was re-imposed in 2008 (Bhatt et Charcoal making from Prosopis juliflora

4
http://www.bannigrassland.org

http://www.bannigrassland.org/
5

4
5 | Hodka6 perhaps to compensate for it, the embroidery
is in bright vibrant colours and extremely
It is believed that the Hodka Jheel was intricate in nature. Women are involved in
established about 300 years ago by what is embroidery for themselves as well as for the
called the ‘Halepotra’ clan. Halepotra quite market. It is a family tradition that is passed
literally means the son or descendant of Halaji on from mother to daughter. Women from
who is supposed to have migrated from the both the Muslim as well as the Harijan
Sindh. He is said to have had seven sons. Out community are involved in embroidery but
of these the descendants of the son Dero are each distinct as representing their own
believed to have settled in the villages of culture. The lifestyle (particularly of the
Hodka and Dumado. Harijans from the Sanjot Meghwal community) is intricately entwined
clan also inhabit the village of Hodka. They in cattle and leather craft. This is essentially a
are said to have come here from Marwad in male craft. Music is also an inherent part of
Rajasthan. Hodka represents the heart of the culture of Banni. Traditional folk songs and
Banni and showcases the art, architecture, the playing of traditional musical instruments
culture and lifestyle of the region. The Hodka is an important part of the Banni lifestyle.
Jheel has six hamlets (also called vandhs). 234
families with a total population of 854 people
inhabit these hamlets. The typical architecture
of this region is represented by
the local structures called bungas
where people live. These are
circular mud structures with thatch
roofs and are said to be the most
appropriate for the
conditions
presents. harsh that this
region
Some Gujarat’s
of finest and
embroidery
comes from theleatherwork
Banni area. In
contrast to the stark landscape or

Tradition of embroidery
passed on from mother to
daughter

6
Brochure on Hodka, Kachchh brought out under the UNDP
project. Compiled and written by MansiAnand. Documentation
support by PachchhamSetu

5
6 | The Genesis of At the very outset, when this initiative was
proposed, the two organizations held a
Shaam-e-Sarhad at Hodka meeting with the Gram Panchayat. The
In 2004, Hodka was shortlisted by the then original idea was to support community-
District Collector, to be considered under the based homestays in Hodka. However, this
UNDP’s ETP. Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan idea was not culturally or socially acceptable.
(KMVS) was considered as the nodal agency As per the traditional norms, normally any
for the same project, with support from guest visiting the village was kept in a room
Sahjeevan, an NGO that had been working in (Baithak) outside the household. There were
this region since 1991, earlier as the Janvikas intense discussions amongst all the
Ecology Cell. Sahjeevan works closely with stakeholders to see if something on these
KMVS. Both organizations were very clear lines could be worked out. There was
that the idea could be implemented only if the considerable scepticism to begin with. It was
local community was agreeable to it. Thus suggested that initially
emerged the idea of establishing a tented accommodation on a very small scale
community-managed tourism initiative. should be tried. Hodka had received several
tents after the earthquake of 2001, many of
The Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan (KMVS) was them lying unused. It was decided to use
established in 1989 with the primary objective of these tents for the initial phase of the
empowering rural women in the region. KMVS’s proposed tourism initiative. A site, an old
mission was to achieve this through awareness dried-up pond that belonged to the Jhuth
raising and supporting local collectives. As KMVS Gram Panchayat (representing all the 13
grew, its mission broadened to include areas of villages of the area) was selected for this
ecological restoration, livelihood access and
initiative. This was planned as a trial/test run
diversification, violence against women,
reproductive health and the strengthening of since the community was not completely
local governance through Gram Panchayats. convinced that this would work. The resort
From a single collective of rural women, KMVS was named Shaam-e-Sarhad or quite literally,
has evolved into a network of seven grassroots ‘Evening at the Border. The responsibility of
level organizations across the Kachchh district. the overall construction was given to
This network includes women pastoralists, Hunnarshala.
farmers, artisans, fisher folk, wage workers, Hunnarshala came into being as a result of
musicians, women elected representatives, associations established after the earthquake of
traditional birth attendants, and also single self- 2001 to help with reconstruction of habitats. The
employed women. post-earthquake reconstruction saw the
http://kmvs.org.in/ emergence of some remarkable knowledge of
traditional building systems. Hunnarshala was
an attempt to capture this knowledge and
Tourism was not something that either of the
experience not only for the reconstruction
organizations had worked on earlier. However process but also for long term sustainable
there was strong feeling that an initiative such development of the area. It was registered as an
as this could potentially help to revive in the organization in 2003. Three themes are core to
local community a sense of pride for their Hunnarshala’s work: – i) how people are
culture and environment. Hodka was empowered to shape their own habitats; ii) how
proposed as the location of this experiment habitat solutions can become more environment
for a number of reasons. The grasslands and friendly, sustainable and disaster safe; and iii)
the livestock for which this area was famous how local artisanal knowledge and skills can
were both on the decline, and this was a cause deliver high quality products.
for concern amongst the local community. http://www.hunnarshala.org/
More importantly, the people of Hodka had
worked with both the organizations and there The initial concept, in the testing phase was to
was a sense of trust and an openness to listen establish a place for people to stay, and serve
to new ideas. them the local cuisine to recreate an
authentic experience of an evening in a local

6
village. While tents were agreed upon, there The community was also cognizant of the fact
was the issue of how they should be furnished that tourists would actually come all the way
from the inside. The concept of using earth specially to see these unique dwellings. There
and mud was discussed by Hunnarshala with was a consensus within the community that
the Panchayat members. There were a these were the structures they wanted to
number of artisans in the villages who were build for the permanent construction at the
comfortable building in mud. So the first step resort. Firstly, because they were practical to
was making mud beds for the tents. The construct, and also to give tourists a feel of
reaction of the locals was interesting. While how it would be to live in one. There was also
they were comfortable with the idea of beds an understanding that these structures should
in mud, the concept of mud toilets was alien be easy to maintain and repair by the local
to them, since they did not have toilets at all. community without any outside assistance.
As a mid-way path, the compromise solution Each mud wall was also adorned with
was quite remarkable. Toilets were designed traditional paintings and artwork. A
tastefully, and were almost as luxurious as in significant feature of the mud structures is
any high-end resort, but built in mud. This that they have to be redone every year. This
even took tourists by surprise, since they did again is a community activity and gives
not expect luxury toilets in tents. people a chance to showcase new art while
the walls are being redone. It is also an
However, as Shaam-e-Sarhad opened for
encouragement to the artisans to use their
tourists and became more popular, the
skills. Traditionally called lipan, the mud
general feedback was to make available more
plastering is done by a group of women led by
permanent structures for accommodation.
Ramaben who are called upon every year to
While considering the demand, the villagers
were very clear that these structures should
blend in with the landscape. Thus emerged
the idea of permanent construction in mud
rather than in concrete. This was appropriate
as the region is known for its unique dwellings
called bungas. Bungas, because of their
construction, were some of the few structures
that had withstood the 2001 earthquake.
There was sense of pride within the
community for having this traditional
knowledge and using it to combat natural
disasters. Bungas were also ideal structures to
combat the extreme temperatures in the
desert without the use of air-conditioning. Bungas

Tents Dining Area

7
carry out this task. The display of art on the received substantial finances. INR 20, 00,
walls of Shaam-e-Sarhad has encouraged the 000/- was allocated for each of the 36 sites
local people to be more innovative, and many (EQUATIONS 2008). The Tourism Committee
have tried some of the new art forms used with the initial support of KMVS ensured that
here in their own bungas (EQUATIONS 2008). these funds were spent as and when required
and with transparency and accountability.
Once the accommodation was in place, some
of the other elements for a successful tourism Until 2012, there was a coordinator from
initiative were identified. These included KMVS available for support, and meetings
building local capacity in the hospitality were held at the end of every season for
sector, training in management, finance, feedback, evaluation and adaptive
sanitation and hygiene etc. management. The initiative was in the early
years owned by the community, but with help
Capacity Building in the management. Since 2012, Shaam-e-
KMVS understood that for such a venture to Sarhad is owned and managed entirely by the
take off and to sustain there was need for community. The resort itself has 14 full time
considerable capacity building, particularly in employees who are local including the
the hospitality sector, sanitation and hygiene manager. The season at the resort is from
etc. Contact was made with a tourism October to March. 50% of the salary
establishment called Desert Coursers in the continues to be given to the employees even
Little Rann of Kutch that had been operating during the off season. Local youth employed
successfully in the area since 1984. The owner at the resort go back to their traditional
Dhanraj Mallik kindly sent his manager to occupation as Maldharis during this time. The
train the local youth and stayed on
there for several months until he felt
that Shaam-e-Sarhad was ready to
start operating for tourists. In the
local dialect ‘Bhumiyas’ are people
who are well acquainted with and
understand their ‘bhumi’ or land.
Youth were trained as interpreters
and guides to accompany tourists
and appropriately called ‘Bhumiyas’.
Training is an ongoing activity and
continues with each new season.
The focus still remains on local
youth.

Management
The Gram Panchayat set up a first amount earned as profit was INR 75,000/-
Tourism Committee that is directly which was interestingly spent on inviting the
responsible for the management of the renowned musician Sharafat Khan from
resort. This committee has representatives Rajasthan to sing at the resort. The income
from all the 13 villages of the Hodka from Shaam-e-Sarhad has grown from INR
Panchayat. The Tourism Committee still holds 100,000/- in 2005-2006 to INR 45,00,000/- in
regular meetings to discuss pending issues. the year 2012-2013. The Tourism Committee
Shaam-e-Sarhad opened for tourists in 2005. decides how this income should be spent.
There was considerable hand holding, both by Much of it goes towards maintenance of the
KMVS and UNDP through 2006 and 2007. resort and salaries. Money is also spent
Financial support for any community- based towards development within the villages
tourism initiative in the initial years is crucial. depending on need. For example, if one of the
As part of the ETP, Shaam-e-Sarhad villages needs pipes for the supply of water,

8
then funds from tourism are utilized for this Shaam-e-Sarhad is ideally located as a tourist
purpose. Funds are also directed towards the destination. Villages that are a repository of
cattle fair (Pashu Mela) held in the region. different arts and crafts surround the resort.
This includes the beautiful embroidery,
leather, clay, metal, mud and woodwork.
Tours are organized by the resort to these
villages to see people work on these crafts,
and also get a feel of their lives and
livelihoods. A unique structure to capture and
manage rainwater can also be seen here.
Called Virdas in the local language, these are
shallow pits dug by the Maldharis after
studying the flow of water during the
monsoon. These depressions are located just
above the salty groundwater, but are dug in
such a way that the saline water does not
contaminate the sweet water. A mere ten
Members of Tourism Management Committee
inches of rain is adequate to provide sweet
water from these structures for two to three
months, after which the water gets saline with
7 | Shaam-e-Sarhad Today the steady rise of groundwater.
Shaam-e-Sarhad has been successfully
For the naturalist this area presents some
running now for nine years. At present there
unique biodiversity. The nearby ‘white desert’
are six two-person tents, four bungas and two
is a sight worth seeing as is Karo Dungar
family rooms. All these have attached toilets.
(Black Hill) that is the highest point in the
Three meals are part of the tariff. All meals
region. The resort facilitates visits to Chhari
served feature traditional local cuisine. Banni
Dhand the nearby wetland. Chhari Dhand is
is the land of milk and milk products, and
the largest seasonal wetland in the area with
meals are replete with milk derivatives,
an area of about 10 sq km. It supports a rich
including local clarified butter (ghee) and
bird life, and over 50,000 birds of 55 different
buttermilk. A special is the pearl millet roti
species have been recorded from this
(Bajara no rotlo) with ghee and gud (jaggery
wetland.
molasses). Evenings at the resort resound
with traditional music performances by local Shaam-e-Sarhad is being marketed through a
musicians under the open sky. dedicated website (http://www.hodka.in/)
that was designed with the help of KMVS.
How Bajro Got its Name
Legend has it that Pearl Millet or bajro came to
Kachchh around the 10thCentury but was used
only as horse feed. The Sama Jadejas ruled at
that time and their most revered monarch was
Lakho Fulani. Lakho felt that pearl millet could
be used for human consumption as well. He
ordered rotis to be made and these were fed to an
old ailing woman. The woman ate the roti and
not only did she relish the taste, but it also made
her feel better. Pearl millet was thus given the
name bajro meaning ‘Ba’ as in old women and
‘jaro’ to digest7.

7 Local Youth Trained in the Hospitality Sector at the

Brochure on Hodka, Kachchh brought out under the UNDP
Resort
project. Compiled and written by MansiAnand. Documentation
support by PachchhamSetu

9
There is also a tie-up with tour operators in Some of the funds derived from the tourism,
Ahmedabad to further help with the help support the cattle fair. The Breeders’
marketing. Shaam-e-Sarhad is now well Association has also launched a movement
known through word of mouth. There are called Banni ko Banni Rehne Do (Let Banni
several tour operators (many from overseas) Remain Banni) in protest against the Forest
who have been brining groups for several Department Working Plan for the region8.
years now. There is also a dedicated person in
It was also in 2005, the year that Shaam-e-
Bhuj who manages reservations for the resort.
Sarhad opened, that the then Chief Minister
Shaam-e-Sarhad is the winner of the 2010
of Gujarat, and now Prime Minister, Narendra
Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) Gold
Modi visited Kachchh. He felt that this region
Award for Best Rural Tourism Project.
could be promoted in a big way for tourism.
This was the origin of the Rann Utsav or the
8 | Impact of the Desert Festival that is held in the White Desert
Hodka Initiative: The of Kachchh every year from December to
March. A tented city of over 500 tents is set up
Larger Context especially for the Rann Utsav. While, in many
The establishment of Shaam-e-Sarhad and its ways, Shaam-e-Sarhad set the trend to
management gave the local community the showcase the culture and traditions of the
confidence that it could actually own and Kachchh region, the Desert Festival has taken
manage its own tourism initiative. The success it to a much larger scale. The campaign for
of this enterprise motivated the people to promotion of tourism in Gujarat, with
engage with/work on other livelihood-related Amitabh Bachchan as the brand ambassador,
activities as well. One of these was the has added to the visibility and popularity of
formation of the Banni Pashu Uchherak this region.
Maldhari Sangathan (BPUMS) or the
Banni Breeders’ Association. This
organization was formed in 2008 with
support from Sahjeevan, with the
primary objective of conservation and
improvement of the Banni cattle breed.
This includes the conservation of the
grasslands where the animals graze
and establishment of an organized milk
market for the region. The wider
objective was to ensure the availability
of water and animal feed, support for
systematic animal marketing under the
overarching principle of the
preservation of local culture and
tradition. The Breeders’ Association
also initiated the process of characterization
and developing the breed descriptor for the
Banni breed with help from the local NGOs
and the Agricultural University. These efforts
resulted in the recognition of the Banni
Buffalo as India’s 11th breed. A key activity of
the BPUMS is the annual cattle fair or the
Banni Pashu Mela that is held primarily to
provide a system for animal trade at the local
level. The mela also provides a platform for all 8
www. banni.in
discussions relevant to the Banni region.

10
 Tented City at Rann Utsav
like those at Shaam-e- Sarhad, but bungas are
9 | Challenges now being constructed in concrete, and the
same standards of cleanliness are often not
Setting Standards maintained. A classic example of what could
The scale of operation at Shaam-e-Sarhad is happen is the resort of Dhordo, adjacent to
still fairly small owing to limited the tent city of the Rann Utsav. Inspired by
accommodation, and thus a limited number the traditional architecture this resort has
of tourists. However the success of this rooms styled as bungas, but equipped with
initiative can be gauged from the fact that it is air-conditioning and flat screen television sets
completely booked for the season, many in each room.
months in advance. But the region is now
opening up for tourism in a big way, and with One way to guard against such eventualities is
the Rann Utsav, the number of tourists visiting to develop and lay down a strict Code of
the area has grown exponentially. This is Conduct. It may be hard to ensure standards
going to put demands on Shaam-e- Sarhad in the entire Kachchh area, but it is possible
for more accommodation. Two family rooms for Shaam-e-Sarhad to take the lead and set
have already been added, and there is now standards for tourism in Hodka to begin with.
discussion about more bungas replacing the
existing tents. In case of expansion in scale
and activity, there thus always the danger of
compromising on standards. For example, in
time to come it is possible that the completely
mud architecture could get replaced by
concrete.
The success of Shaam-e-Sarhad has also
spurred many other similar initiatives in the
area. Unfortunately, not all follow the same
parameters that Shaam-e-Sarhad has set. A
total of 50 rooms are now available in Hodka
itself. In appearance these rooms may look Changing Times: New resorts coming up

11
This is going to be a challenge, but if worked fact that the community had rejected the idea
upon now, then this will be indeed a first for of homestays and opted to have a resort away
the country. from the villages. It is evident that the
Collector understood the local context and
Women’s Involvement was able to defend this decision. The success
One of the key objectives of UNDP’s ETP was of this initiative must also be attributed to the
the empowerment of women. This aspect has local community who was open to experiment
indeed been a challenge in the Banni, and take this forward. However, this would
particularly given the social and cultural not have been possible without the many
context. This is despite the fact that the lead discussions that both the NGO as well as the
NGO, KMVS has been working with the District Collector had with the community.
women of this region for several years. Importantly, there was a feeling of inclusion
Women were in fact part of the Tourism since community views were heard and also
Management Committee in the initial stage implemented.
but were gradually phased out. Initially, food The gradual success of the project reiterated
at the resort also came from household in people the pride in their local culture and
kitchens, primary catered to by the women. traditions. What was commendable was the
But this changed once the resort got its own fact that at no point, despite contrary
kitchen where the cooking is now done by feedback, did the Tourism Committee and the
men. A group of women (Ramaben and her community at large feel the need to dilute or
team) come every year to re-do the mud change anything in what was being served or
plastering at the resort, a highly specialized practiced at the resort. The food served, for
skill only they possess. Also, all the exquisite example, continues to be local and
embroidery that is sold at the resort and in vegetarian, and tourists seem to relish it
the surrounding villages is done by the without feeling the need for anything
women, but sold by men. Women thus remain different.
an invisible component of this initiative. This is
not from lack of trying, but the reality that It is unreasonable to expect any community-
social norms dictate in this region are very based tourism endeavour to succeed without
strong and hard to change. adequate training and capacity building. This
is one aspect that was addressed at the very
10 | Key Factors for beginning of the project and played an
part in setting the standards.
Success/Core Values important such training needs to be an
Shaam-e-Sarhad stands out as a successful However,
ongoing activity, and refreshed at the
initiative amongst the 36 projects that were beginning of every new season. For any
supported through the UNDP/MoT projects. tourism initiative it is crucial that high
This is despite the fact that tourism was standards of cleanliness, sanitation and
indeed a new concept introduced to the local hygiene are maintained. It is creditable that
community. This can be attributed to several Shaam-e-Sarhad has been able to do this,
factors. The primary one being the presence thanks to the vigilance of the Tourism
of effective local NGOs (KMVS and Management Committee, the training
Sahjeevan) that had been working in the area imparted to the employees and the initial
for several years and the trust placed in them support given by the NGOs.
by the local communities. This was a crucial It is clear that community’s vision for Hodka
element. It is because of the rapport that has gone beyond just tourism. The success of
these organizations have had with the tourism at Hodka has empowered the
community that they were able to introduce community, and urged them to use the same
the idea of tourism. ETP projects were routed cohesiveness in a larger context of livelihoods
through the District Collector, who also was and natural resource management. Thus the
extremely supportive and dynamic. He was emergence of the Animal Breeders’
able to support the project here despite that

12
Association and the fight to maintain the own and manage enterprises. Local
Banni area as it is. Extraneous factors such as communities are rarely made part of these
the aggressive marketing of Kachchh as a initiatives nor do they benefit from them. The
tourism destination and the Rann Utsav have Shaam-e-Sarhad model is unique in many
also helped in bringing Hodka into the ways, primarily because it is both community-
limelight as a rural tourism destination. owned and managed. There are examples in
the country where tourism is community-
11 | Shaam-e-Sarhad: based, but the enterprise may not necessarily
be owned by the community, only managed
Challenging the by them. What has made a difference in
Dominant Tourism Model Hodka is the fact that communities think of
Shaam-e-Sarhad as its own. It is this
Traditionally, tourism is predominantly ownership that has enabled the community to
associated with places of historic or cultural plan for a wider context and be able to direct
interest or of natural beauty. The attempt of funds from tourism in the supporting the
the ETP was to consciously move away from unique grasslands that are home to them.
the traditional tourism model to an
experiential one. It attempted to highlight the It must however be emphasized that Shaam-
fact that there was more to tourism than five e-Sarhad is a small enterprise, promoting
star hotels. The international traveller now niche tourism as opposed to mass tourism
wants to experience and give back to the that focuses on the heritage of the Banni
destination more than he takes from it. In area. It will appeal to the tourist who wants to
India, what better than to focus on rural India have a first-hand experience of rural life. Its
that has much to offer in terms of art, culture success can be partially attributed to the fact
and heritage? This was the idea that the ETP that it is small in scale and operation and can
took forward. However, adequate thus operate at the level of each individual
infrastructure and capacities are needed if tourist. If this is scaled up to cater to mass
rural tourism has to be promoted in India in its tourism, there is the risk that it will lose its
true form since this is still a relatively new exclusivity and unique selling point. Shaam-e-
concept. The ETP was also a major paradigm Sarhad could be considered a ‘high end’
shift from the kind of tourism resort. The tariff is INR 5200/- for
projects generally supported by The Shaam-e-Sarhad two persons inclusive of all meals
the Ministry of Tourism, for the bungas and INR 3200/- for
model is unique
Government of India. The MoT’s two persons and all meals
in many ways, included for the tented
focus in the past has been on
support to infrastructure in the
primarily because it accommodation. This is in itself
form of building of hotels and isboth creditable because
resorts. The overall framework of community-owned the community has over the
the ETP project that focused on and managed. years been able to maintain the
processes rather than on products, and that standards and attract tourists. Rural tourism
placed communities at the helm of does primarily attract more foreign tourists
management and decision making in tourism, wanting to experience ‘first hand’ rural India.
is in itself a digression from the norm However, one bad experience can result in the
(EQUATIONS 2008). The ETP, further links loss of credibility of the initiative. Many
tourism to development. Shaam-e-Sarhad has tourists today seek to try community-based
very appropriately shown how community- tourism destinations and most of them access
based tourism can empower people to take places through ‘word of mouth’. To this end,
the agenda of conservation and livelihoods Shaam-e-Sarhad seems to have established it
further. credibility. This is further evident from the fact
that many of the same foreign tour operators
The dominant model of tourism in the country
bring new groups of tourists here every year.
is one where outsiders (be it small
entrepreneurs or large hotel chains) build,

13
In terms of being considered an alternative, However, it is crucial to point out that the
the project has helped bring social well-being project has brought to the larger community a
through the promotion and sale of handicrafts sense of ownership and pride in something
and income from the resort itself. The they consider their ‘own’. They are indeed
question however remains as to how much proud to be able to make decisions as how the
transformation a project such as this can income from tourism should be spent and also
really bring to deep rooted social inequities. in the larger context make decisions on how
The youth in this case have found a new to manage the local ecosystem. Indirectly, the
livelihood opportunity. Women, however as project has also helped address the issue of
mentioned earlier still remain invisible but do conserving the Banni grasslands as also the
gain from the sale of the embroidery that indigenous cattle breeds thus helping to bring
they exclusively create. The larger social ecological stability in the region.
context does not allow women more visibility.

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 Bhatt, J.R., J.S. Singh, S.P. Singh, R.S. Tripathi and R.K. Kohli. 2011. Invasive Alien
Plants: An Ecological Appraisal for the Indian Subcontinent. CABI Publishing, UK
 EQUATIONS. 2008. Redefining Tourism - Experiences and Insights from Rural
Tourism Projects in India. For Ministry of Tourism, Government of India / UNDP India
2008. EQUATIONS, Bangalore
 Gujarat Institute of Desert Ecology (GIDE). 2002. Kachchh Sub-State Biodiversity
Strategy and Action Plan. Part of the Final Technical Report Prepared under
National Biodiversity Strategy and Action Plan (NBSAP). NBSAP Technical and
Policy Core Group (TPCG), Kalpavriksh, Delhi/Pune
 Thacker, N. 2002.70% of Cattle-Breeders Desert Banni. 14 February 2002; The Times
of India

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