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Tencel Fiber

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Tencel Fiber

Tencel Fiber:
• Tencel is the trade name of lyocell fiber. The newest invention on
the fiber block is lyocell. Tencel is a natural, manmade,
biodegradable fiber which made from wood pulp. Tencel is a
regenerated cellulose fiber made by a newly invented process which
causes less effluent problems and less pollution than the process of
making viscose rayon. Tencel has very good properties, such as
high tenacity and low elongation. It has a high moisture regain of
11.5% and at the same time retains tenacity well when wet. The
drawback of lyocell is that the fiber can split quite easily. Lyocell,
modal and polynosic rayon have very similar properties, so their
end uses are also similar.
Advantages of Tencel Fiber:
• 1. Eco Print:
Made from the natural cellulose found in wood pulp. The fiber is economical in its use
of energy and natural resources, and is fully biodegradable.
• 2. Moisture Absorbent:
This fiber has natural breathability and 50% greater moisture absorption than cotton.
• 3. Heat Capacity and Thermoregulation:
Water has a high heat capacity. Therefore, fibers which contain water will also have a
high heat capacity. This can be used to help the human body’s temperature regulation.
On the water vapor absorption isotherm we have seen that tencel fibre always contains
water.
Advantages of Tencel Fiber:
• 4. Anti-bacterial:
Due to its moisture management, Tencel is also anti-bacterial. Tencel has an
extremely smooth, soft surface that drapes beautifully to flatter every figure.
• 5. Great for Sensitive Skin:
Tencel’s smooth fiber surface feels soft and supple against the skin and its
incredible wicking abilities keep the skin dry, making tencel a great fabric for
sensitive skin. Fibers with poor water absorption capacity result in textiles which
cling to the skin when they are wet. Wet skin is much more sensible to irritation
than dry skin. The coarseness, the stiffness and the surface character of the fibers
will also have an impact on the skin’s sensory perception.
Advantages of Tencel Fiber:
• Both cotton and wool have rather good water absorbency, however
they have a rather rough fiber surface. Tencel combines good water
absorbency with a smooth fiber surface which makes it a fiber
which is very gentle to the skin.
• 6. Durable:
This super fiber can hold up to a beating when both we and dry, and
is most conveniently resistant to wrinkles.
Disadvantage of Tencel Fiber:

• Tencel will shrink (approx. 3%) after its first washing but retain its
shape after that.
• Tencel is more expensive than most eco fabric alternatives.
Properties of Tencel Fiber:
• The actual degree of polymerization in the tencel fibers is higher than for standard viscose,
modal (HWM) or polynosics.
• Tencel fibers have excellent wet strength and wet modulus. The high wet modulus of the
fiber is an important attribute as it imparts Tencel fabrics with very low potential shrinkage
in wet state.
• The fiber is round in cross-section and has a natural high lustre.
• 100% biodegradable.
• Tencel has a very high absorption capability, a unique nano-fibril structure and a very
smooth surface.
A Comparison of Tencel Fiber
Properties:
Parameter Tencel Polyester Cotton Viscose
Linear density (dtex) 1.7 1.7 – 1.7
Tenacity (cN/tex) 42-44 42-52 23-25 23-25
Elongation (%) 14-16 25-35 7-9 20-25
Wet tenacity (cN/tex) 37-41 42-52 27-31 10-12
Wet Elongation (%) 16-18 25-35 12-14 25-30

Wet modulus {@5%


270 210 100 50
extension} (cN/tex)

Water imbibitions (%) 65 3 50 90


Manufacturing Process of
Tencel Fiber:
• Tencel manufacturing requires fewer steps compared with viscose rayon fiber
manufacturing. Steps such as the derivatization, alkalization and xanthation of rayon
are omitted in the Lyocell process. Few chemicals are used, among which N-methyl
morpholine- N-oxide (NMMO) and water are almost recycled, which makes the process
economically favourable.
• Tencel fiber is a solvent spun fiber using amine oxide (MMNO) as the solvent. In the
process, amine oxide is heated and is then used to dissolve wood pulp. A very clear but
very viscous solution is obtained which is filtered and then spun into a bath containing
a dilute aqueous solution of solvent. The bath removes the amine oxide from the fibers.
The fibers are then washed and dried. The removed solvent is reclaimed for further use.
Tencel Solvent Spinning Process
Flow Chart:
Fibrillation of Tencel:

• One of the properties of Tencel is its potential to fibrilate.


Fibrillation is where the wet fiber, through abrasive action,
develops micro-fibrils (or tiny fibers) on its surface. By
manipulating or controlling fibrillation, a variety of different fabric
finishes may be achieved.
• The surface fibers of standard Tencel are fibrillated to produce a
luxurious, soft-touch fabric with a peach skin surface. This is the
usual recognized quality of the fiber.
Fibrillation of Tencel:
• A more recently developed fiber, Tencel A100, has a non-fibrillated
surface finish. Developed primarily for the knitwear market, A100
has a subtle surface lustre, and excellent print definition and high
tear and burst strength for woven and knitted fabrics. A100 also
enhances laundering performance and shape retention of garments
using this fiber.
Blending of Tencel :
• Tencel fibres blend well with other natural or synthetic fibres
such as below:
• With cotton, it softens, adds strength and increases performance.
• With linen, it reduces creasing and increases softness and
strength without detracting from linen s own character.
• With wool, it preserves the wool aesthetic while contributing
washability, softness and subtle lustre.
Blending of Tencel :
• With polyester or nylon, it lends a more natural hand, increasing
comfort and breathability without diminishing performance.
• With lycra, it augments the feeling of comfort and ease.
• With silk, it affords an even more luxurious hand and improves
performance.
• The blends adds drape, comfort and performance, enhance the
aesthetics and functionality of fabrics. The blend also yields high
tear and tensile strength.
Dyeing, Printing and Finishing :
• Proper pre-treatment of tencel fibres is important for further
wet processes like dyeing, printing and finishing. This is also
important since tencel fibres tend to form creases during the
first wet swelling and these creases cannot be removed.
• By means of the cold –pad-batch three in one process (T-I-O)., in
one step the size is oxidatively removed, fibre is bleached and
causticisation is carried out.  Practical experience shows that
greater color yield results from the simultaneously achieved
causticisation effect lead to a dyestuff saving up to 30 %
depending on the type of dye.
Tencel is dyed in four ways:
• Fabric dyeing (woven and knitted)
• Package dyeing (cone dyeing)
• Garment dyeing.
• Rope dyeing.
Tencel is dyed in four ways:
• All dyes like direct, vat, reactive, azoic, sulphur and pigments are used.
Fibrillation will not occur during open width dyeing processes but will occur
during rope dyeing processes. Tencel fibre can be dyed with all dye’s classes
suitable for the dyeing of cellulosic fibres. Tencel generally has much higher
dye ability than conventional cellulosic fibres and it requires special dyeing
conditions.
• Finishing processes can impart wool or silk like property
• Tencel can be printed by conventional methods using ordinary classes of dyes.
During printing, tencel behaves in a similar way to viscose and therefore
recipes for viscose can also be used on tencel.
Uses of Tencel Fiber:

• The early stages of the commercialisation of tencel were focused


towards the fashion textile apparel sector. However, this has
changed during the first years of the twenty-first century so that
tencel is now targeted equally into the industrial sector, with
particular emphasis on the key nonwovens markets of wipes, filters
and feminine hygiene products.
• Tencel is usually used as a substitute for cotton or silk. This fabric
feels like soft cotton, and it is used to make everything from dress
shirts to towels to underwear.
Uses of Tencel Fiber:
• Tencel fiber is used in women’s wear, denims, suits, etc. In men’s wear, it is used as
golf shirts.  It is also used in the manufacture of towels, sheets, upholsteries and
pillow cases.  It is used in fine quality clothes, blouses, stacks, jeans, shirts and 
sportswear.
• Industrial uses of Tencel are conveyor belts, ultra–low– tar cigarette filters,
printers blankets carbon shields, specialty papers and medical dressings.
• It is used in technical fabrics in which high strength coupled with high absorption
are required. It is used in especially non-woven fabrics targeted primarily in hydro
entangled, spun laid and wet–lay technologies. It is also used in battery separation
and coating substrates.
Conclusion

• Although Tencel and cotton are naturally breathable, Tencel might be the
better option for particularly hot sleepers because it’s more cooling.
Tencel is more durable and eco-friendly than cotton. Plus, the material is
softer and less likely to wrinkle compared to cotton. If you want a long-
lasting Tencel sheet set you can curl up in bed with, then our Amerisleep
Tencel Sheets are the perfect option.
References:
• Manufactured fiber technology by V.B. Gupta and V.K. Kothari.
• Schuster K.C., Firgo H., Haussmann F., Männer J., Home Textiles
with Feel Good Factor Derived From Wood, Lenzinger Berichte, 83
(2004), pp. 111–116.
• A Novel Green Treatment for Textiles: Plasma Treatment as a
Sustainable Technology By Chi-wai Kan
• Sustainable Fibres and Textiles Edited by Subramanian
Senthilkannan Muthu

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