Work
Work
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Date :
Place: JNV Banavasi, Kurnool.
HANDLOOM
Handloom weaving is an age-old tradition in India. Our culture has been practising it for
ages, even before the introduction of textile mills. The weaver community (Julahas)
produced fabrics using natural dyes from plants, flowers, or fruits. During the Industrial
Revolution, machine- made textiles from England replaced handloom fabric for making
clothes.
Handlooms regained popularity during the post-independence era when Mahatma Gandhi
encouraged people to use handlooms instead of machine-made fabrics for their clothing
needs because they were cheaper than machine-made textiles imported from abroad. This
blog will discuss a brief history of handloom fabric, the different types, and their uses.
What Is A Handloom?
A 'handloom' is a type of loom that weaves cloth without the use of electricity. Hand
weaving takes place in weavers' houses and generally involves interlacing two sets: warp
(length) & weft (width).
There are two types of handlooms:
1.pit looms
2.frame looms
Pit loom: This type of loom is usually found in rural areas, and it can be set up anywhere
(in a room or outside) because it does not require electricity. It is made from bamboo or
wood poles, with interwoven strips of cane used as the weave beams. There are also
variations on pit looms that are more advanced but still use the same principle.
Handlooms are the oldest form of weaving, dating back thousands of years. Handlooms
were used by nomads in Central Asia as early as 5000 BC. The widespread use of handloom
fabrics began around 3000 BC after the invention of cotton.
Cotton was much more versatile than wool, making it easier to weave on handlooms. The
first handlooms were frames made of wood and bamboo on which the weaver would sit
while they worked. The warp threads were stretched across two lengths of wood, with one
end secured to the ground and the other attached to a peg at the top of each frame. The
weaver would then place the weft threads between these two lengths of wood and use a
stick to push them backwards and forwards as they were woven.
The use of beater bars and treadles allowed the weaver to sit down and work instead of
standing, thus significantly improving upon the process by which threads had previously
been pushed by hand. However, it would still take a long time for one person to weave cloth
in this manner.
Over time, weaving became an integral part of Indian culture. The Indians used handloom
fabric for clothing needs—and its usage expanded rapidly.
Types of Weaving Techniques
Plain weave:This simple weaving technique involves passing weft threads through a series
of warp threads that lie horizontally across the loom. This type of weaving is used in making
simple cloth like muslin, saris and cotton sheets. The fabric has a plain appearance with a
smooth surface.
Twill weave: A twill weave has diagonal lines running across it, creating a patterned design
on both sides. Twills are typically used in denim; however, twill weaving can also be used for
other purposes, such as curtains or tablecloths.
Satin weave: A satin weave creates a smooth, lustrous fabric to make high-end clothing and
tapestries. It involves using two sets of threads (usually warp and weft), where each group
crosses over the other at regular intervals. The resulting fabric is smooth, soft and glossy.
Jacquard weave: AJacquard weave creates a patterned fabric using a series of warp threads
held in place by heddles. The heddles can be raised or lowered to create patterns within the
weave. This cloth is often used for making rugs and tapestries due to its durability and
strength.
Basket weave:A basket weave is a type of texture created when you interlace two threads,
each collection consisting of three yarns. One group runs horizontally and one vertically; the
third thread runs through both sets at an angle. It's often used for making baskets, mats,
and clothing such as socks, hats and gloves.
1.Ikat: Ikat is a weaving method involving dyeing the warp
before you weave it. The yarns are dyed using natural dyes
and then woven into intricate patterns are used for clothing
or home decor. The process takes weeks to complete, but
the results are worth it because they're unique and
beautiful.
2.Kutch: Kutch embroidery is a style of sewing that uses
thread, beads, and sequins to create patterns on fabrics.
The technique originated in the Kutch district of Gujarat
state, which is why it's sometimes referred to as "Kutchi
embroidery."
3.Bandhej: This style of weaving involves creating intricate
patterns with cotton threads before dyeing them using
natural dyes like madder root or turmeric. The designs are
then applied to other materials like silk, cotton, and wool.
The technique is commonly used in Rajasthan state to make
shawls and scarves.
4.Jamdani:Jamdani weaving originated in
Bengal state, where it's still popular today. It
involves making intricate patterns with threads
before dyeing them with natural dyes like indigo
and madder roots.
Current Situation of Handloom Weavers
Many brands are helping preserve this ancient art form and supporting its
talented practitioners by allowing them to work on their terms.
One such company is itokri.com, which helps artisans sell handcrafted
products—such asbedsheets,cushion covers andbags—to buyers worldwide.
iTokri has supported the work of more than 500 artisans, helping them to
preserve their crafts and continue making beautiful handmade goods. It offers
various products, from Punjab's famousphulkari dupattas to Andhra Pradesh's
well-knownikkat sarees.
With over 100,000 listings of handmade items sourced from nearly 10,000
artisans across India, iTokri is the country's largest curated portal for art and
handicraft products.
Creativity thrives in diverse populations, but small towns and villages need
financial support from markets to maintain creative pursuits. Itokri helps
weavers find customers who want to buy their products and provides them
with the training and materials they need to improve their craft. The company
has a network of weavers in several states that produce different types of
textiles; some have worked in this field for years, while others just started
recently.
Conclusion
The handloom industry in India is experiencing
a revival. Many people are interested in
learning about the history of this traditional
method of weaving textiles, and some want to
learn more about the process. We must
preserve this ancient art form for future
generations so they can understand how much
work goes into making each piece of fabric.