Introduction To Textile Finishing

Introduction to Textile Finishing
Course name: Wet processing II

Course Code: WPE-II
What is Finishing
• The term finishing in broad sense, covers all the process which the fabric undergoes after leaving the loom or the
knitting machine or nonwoven manufacturing to stage at which it enters the market. Thus the term also includes
bleaching, dyeing, mercerizing etc. But normally the term is restricted to the final stage in the sequence of fabric
treatment after bleaching and dyeing. The final step in the fabric manufacturing process and the last chance to
provide the properties that customers will value.
• Finishing processes are carried out to improve the natural properties or attractiveness of the fabric and to
increase its serviceability (in that order). Every natural fiber is noted for some properties but it lacks some other
properties which are essential during its end use, e.g., cotton when compared with wool or silk, has the following
defects-
1. Poor lustre 2.Tendency to shrink 3.Tendency to crease badly 4.Poor draping qualities
Hence the finishing process employed will depend on the properties required in the fabric with respect to its use
and its natural properties.
Objectives of Textile Finishing
• To improve the attractiveness of the fabric.
• Finishes apply to increase the life time or durability of the fabric.
• To meet up specific requirement of the fabric to achieve final goal.

Classification of Textile Finishing (cont..)
Classification according to the nature of finish:
• Mechanical finishes: This type of finish also call dry finish. This involves specific type of physical treatment to
a fabric surface that causes a change in fabric appearance. Example: Calendaring, raising, shearing etc.
• Chemical Finishes/Wet finishes: This type of finishes usually applied to fabric by padding method followed by
curing or drying. Example: Crease resistance, flame resistance, water repellent, mercerization etc.
Classification of Textile Finishing (cont..)
Classification according to permanence/durabiliy:
• Permanent finishes: It involves a chemical change in the fiber structure and does not change in throughout
the life of the fabric.
• Durable finishes: Usually last throughout the life of a fabric, effectiveness diminished after each cleaning and
near the end of normal use life of the fabrics, the finishing is nearly removed.
• Semi durable finishes: Usually last several launderings or dry cleaning and many are removed in home
laundering or dry cleaning.
• Temporary finishes: Removed or substantially diminished after the first laundering or dry cleaning.
Classification of Textile Finishing
Classification according to performance:
• Aesthetic finishes: This type of finish makes a change or modifies the appearance of the fabric or hand/drape
properties of the fabric. Example: Calendering, mercerization, raising, shearing.
• Functional Finishes: This type of fabrics changes the internal performance properties of the fabric. Example:
Crease resistance, flame resistance, water repellent, antistatic.
The techniques of finishing depend on the following parameters:
• Nature of fabric i.e. chemical composition, state, weave etc. This determines the appearance i.e. transparency,
lustre, fullness, weight , whiteness etc.
• The physical properties of fabric like feel, softness, stiffness, tensile strength, elongation, shrinkage properties,
insulation etc.
• The end use of the material i.e. non shrinking, non creasing, draping, resistance to abrasion, non soiling nature
etc.
• Receptivity of the fabric to various finishing operation like water proofing, flame proofing, rot proofing etc.
• Susceptibility of chemical modification.

How finishing operation can differ?
Finishing operation can differ according to the properties to be imparted to the material.
• Improving the appearance – lustre, whiteness.
• Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of material, its smoothness, softness, fullness etc.
• Wear qualities, non soiling, anticrease , antishrink, comfort etc.
• Special qualities required for particular use- water proofing, flame proofing etc.
• Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
• Increasing the weight of the cloth.

Chemical Finishing
Chemical methods involve application or deposition of chemicals or carrying out a chemical reaction on the
fabric. Generally chemical finishes are permanent; only a few may be temporary (eg, Anionic softener finish).
Many chemical finishing includes processes that change the chemical composition of the fabric. Therefore,
through chemical finishing, different functional properties can be imparted into a textile material. Chemical
finishing process uses water (for keeping the chemical in solution or in dispersion) as a media whereas heat
is used on activating the chemicals and drying off the water. Some chemical finishing methods combine both
mechanical and chemical methods to improve the effect, for example, the application of fixation agents for
shrink proofing wool fabrics.
REQUIREMENTS OF CHEMICAL FINISHES
◆ the type of textile being treated (fibre and construction)
◆ the performance requirements of the finish (extent of effect and durability)
◆ the cost to benefit ratio
◆ restrictions imposed on the process by availability of machinery, procedure requirements, environmental
considerations
◆ compatibility of different formula components as well as the interaction of the finishing effects
Permanent Chemical Finishes are-
• Mercerizing
• Parchmentizing
• Silicon treatment for hydrophobic effect
• Fluoro chemicals for soil release & soil resistance
• Certain phosphorus & nitrogen compounds for flame retardant
• Wrinkle free/crease resistant
• Antimicrobial finish
• Antistatic finish
Method of application of chemical finish:

• Padding
• Exhaustion
• Coating and Laminating
• Spraying
• foam application
CHALLENGE OF CHEMICAL FINISHING
1. Several types of finishes are combined in one bath.
• All components of the finish bath must be compatible.
• Precipitations of anionic with cationic products have to be avoided.
• The emulsion stability of different products may be reduced by product interactions.
2. More difficult is often the second hurdle, the compatibility of the primary and secondary effects of the different
types of finishes that are being combined:
• Some effects are similar or assist each other, for example silicone elastomers cause water repellency, softeners
bring about antistatic effects and antistatic finishes can be softening.
• Some effects are contradictory, for example hydrophobic finishes and hydrophilic antistatic finishes, or stiffening
and elastomeric finishes, or stiffening and softening finishes.
3. Other types of finishes typically reduce the main effect of a finish type, for example the flame retardant effect is
decreased by nearly all other types of chemical finishes as they add flammable components to the fabric.
4. The true antagonistic effects are rare, but true synergistic effects are also rare, where the resulting effect of a
combination is greater than the sum of the single effects of the combined products. Examples of both cases are
different types of flame retardants.
Mechanical finishing
These finishes are given by mechanical arrangements like drying cylinders or on a stenter to a complicated series
of calendaring operations. Mechanical finish is usually temporary. But, a few may be permanent. (eg, milling of
wool, raising, shearing process, controlled compressive shrinkage processes etc.) It is also known as dry finish.
FINISHES ENHANCING APPEARANCE
• Napping
• Brushing
• Singeing
• Beetling
• Decating
• Tentering
• Calendaring or pressing
• Moireing
• Embossing
• Creping
• Glazing
• Polishing
• Milling
Temporary finishes are-
• Beetling (flattening & lustre)
• Calendaring
• Embossing & glazing
• Breaking
• Stretching
Permanent finishes are-
• Raising
• Crepe effect
• Napping
• Sanforizing
• Shearing
• Decating
• Tentering
Any Question?
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Introduction to Textile Finishing

Course name: Wet processing II

• To improve the attractiveness of the fabric.

• Finishes apply to increase the life time or durability of the fabric.

• To meet up specific requirement of the fabric to achieve final goal.

Classification according to the nature of finish:

Classification according to permanence/durabiliy:

Classification according to performance:

• Susceptibility of chemical modification.

• Improving the appearance – lustre, whiteness.

• Wear qualities, non soiling, anticrease , antishrink, comfort etc.

• Covering of the faults in the original cloth.

• Increasing the weight of the cloth.

Method of application of chemical finish:

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