Dr. Rohini Arora Assistant Professor (Guru Gobind Singh College for Women, Punjab University, Chandigarh) 9871118246 drrohini80@gmail.com
She is an academic and design consultant with reputed institutions with seven years of teaching and eleven years of experience in field of Indian traditional crafts. She has done Masters in Home Science in Textiles and Clothing from Lady Irwin College, Delhi University. Ph.D degree was awarded in Fabric and Apparel Science, Department of Home science, Lady Irwin College, Delhi University in May 2015 on thesis title ‘Capacity Building of Artisans for the Sustenance of Traditional Chamba Embroidery’. She was empanelled as designer in Textiles and Clothing with the Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) in October 2013 and December 2016. She initiated the project on revival of Chamba Embroidery as her Ph.D dissertation since 2007 and still continuing in her own capacity with team of artisans for revival of languishing craft. She has presented her work at various prestigious platforms in form of presentations, research papers and displayed research products in exhibitions at national and international level. Her recent exhibitions was held at IIC and later ones sponsored by ICCR and embassy of Serbia and Berne displayed in Belgrade and many art centers in Switzerland in 2018. Supervisors: Dr. Ritu Mathur, Dr. Veena Gupta
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, 2017
Abstract
Designs and motifs in traditional Chamba embroideries have deep rooted cultural signific... more Abstract Designs and motifs in traditional Chamba embroideries have deep rooted cultural significance. They were symbolic of the beliefs of the community who created embroidered masterpieces using the simplest of raw materials and stitches. The designs and motifs used were very specific to embroideries and characterized by the selective treatment given to them. In order to sustain this craft the author considered it crucial to document the original designs and motifs along with other aspects of the craft. The themes represented in embroidered coverlets of Chamba are well known and have been interpreted by many scholars. However, the varied motifs used in the embroideries need to be documented, which was the focus of this paper. In an exploratory field survey, it was observed that the embroiderers were not well versed in drawing and did not have access to the traditional themes, designs and motifs. Therefore, a ‘design catalogue’ was developed for capacity building of artisans and for use as reference material to create awareness with respect to traditional themes, designs and motifs. This paper presents the research undertaken in the production of the ‘design catalogue’, which included processing of 137 photographs of museum pieces, development and the classification of 768 sketched motifs. The observation of two different styles of motif; folk and miniature style. The development of the catalogue is described and subsequent intervention work with artisans, product development and exhibition towards sustenance of the traditional craft of Chamba embroidery. Key words: Embroidered Coverlets; Chamba; Design Catalogue; Folk Style; Miniature Style
In Indian textile's context, sustainability very aptly signifies subsistence living, following tr... more In Indian textile's context, sustainability very aptly signifies subsistence living, following traditions, using indigenous resources, living with a minimum, highlighting the notion of recycling and reuse, and being eco friendly. In today's time, sustainability and revival of traditional crafts are much sought after topics for discussion in all spheres. As much these concerns have caught attention all around, in India the concept of sustainability is age-old. This can be understood by looking at many of our ancient crafts such as Kantha, which evolved beautifully from quilting craft of joining waste scraps of fabric to magnificent embroidery. The embroidered products created from piles of worn-out fabrics are so much rejoiced and praiseworthy in collections of museums all around the world. Many such craft processes exist here which are based on utilizing minimum resources releasing zero waste products or carbon footprints and cause minimum harm to the environment. Since ancient times despite having a strong foothold in technology, utilizing the best possible processes and raw materials our crafts have witnessed a downfall in quality in recent times. The present research paper would review these limiting factors, which are declining aesthetic quality of crafts. The factors discussed are the outcomes of the primary research undertaken for the doctoral thesis titled 'Capacity building of artisans for the sustenance of traditional Chamba embroidery'. These can be beneficially taken into consideration for design interventions for embroidery.
ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts, 2022
Pahari embroidery was practised in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The ... more Pahari embroidery was practised in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The surface ornamentation of these articles with respect to design, raw material and technique were beautifully adapted according to their utility. The popular product in embroidery is Chamba rumals locally known as dhaknu or chabbu. In addition, equally fascinating embroidery was seen on household products which were meant for personal use and decoration in single sided stitches. The most startling are cholies from Himachal Pradesh in terms of their construction and designs. The cholies from given museums were studied namely Bhuri Singh Museum, Chamba; Government Museum and Art Gallery, Chandigarh National Museum, New Delhi and personal collection. Evidently they are characterized by selective treatment given to them in terms of construction, materials, stitches, adaptation of designs and motifs. Apart from embroidery miniature paintings also indicated the relevance of traditional costumes ...
SHODHKOSH: JOURNAL OF VISUAL AND PERFORMING ARTS, 2022
Pahari embroidery was practiced in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The ... more Pahari embroidery was practiced in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The surface ornamentation of these articles with respect to design, raw material and technique were beautifully adapted according to their utility. The popular product in embroidery is Chamba rumals locally known as dhaknu or chabbu. In addition, equally fascinating embroidery was seen on household products which were meant for personal use and decoration in single sided stitches. The most startling are cholies from Himachal Pradesh in terms of their construction and designs. The cholies from given museums were studied namely Bhuri Singh Museum, Chamba, Government Museum and Art Gallery, Chandigarh National Museum, New Delhi, and personal collection. Evidently, they are characterized by selective treatment given to them in terms of construction, materials, stitches, adaptation of designs and motifs. Apart from embroidery miniature paintings also indicated the relevance of traditional costumes in socio cultural traditions. Interestingly two different kinds are observed in cholies according to their construction. Likewise on basis of designs and motifs two different styles in embroidery are seen i.e., free hand curved designs and geometrical designs. The documentation of these designs is done by redrawing the traditional motifs with help of miniature artist Shri Prixit Sharma, Chamba. The stitches are also classified as filling, outline and finishing used in single sided embroidery. Conspicuously these minute variations lend special features to choli blouses and distinguish them from other form of embroideries from the pahari region.
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, Jan 2, 2017
Abstract Designs and motifs in traditional Chamba embroideries have deep rooted cultural signific... more Abstract Designs and motifs in traditional Chamba embroideries have deep rooted cultural significance. They were symbolic of the beliefs of the community who created embroidered masterpieces using the simplest of raw materials and stitches. The designs and motifs used were very specific to embroideries and characterized by the selective treatment given to them. In order to sustain this craft the author considered it crucial to document the original designs and motifs along with other aspects of the craft. The themes represented in embroidered coverlets of Chamba are well known and have been interpreted by many scholars. However, the varied motifs used in the embroideries need to be documented, which was the focus of this paper. In an exploratory field survey, it was observed that current embroiderers were not well versed in drawing and did not have access to the traditional themes, designs and motifs. Therefore, a “design catalogue” was developed for capacity building of artisans and for use as reference material to create awareness with respect to traditional themes, designs and motifs. This paper presents the research undertaken in the production of the “design catalogue”, which included processing of 137 photographs of museum pieces, development and the classification of 768 sketched motifs. The observation of two different styles of motif (folk and miniature style) is noted, the development of the catalogue is described alongside subsequent intervention work with artisans, product development work and exhibition towards sustenance of the traditional craft of Chamba embroidery.
In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Cha... more In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Chamba embroidery was one of the finest embroideries of India. However, for sustaining the craft in local environment, it is crucial to study the traditional resources, their significance along with contemporary substitutes available in recent times. In the field survey conducted it was observed, varied fabrics were being used for Chamba embroidery which were not suitable in terms of fiber type, thickness and color. It was one of the prime factors contributing towards decline of quality of embroidered products. The present research was undertaken to develop criteria’s for selection of fabric appropriate for double sided embroidered coverlets, articles with folk embroidery and single sided embroidery. Varied range of fabrics was collected and documented in form of fabric catalogue. The relationship between thread count of different fabric types and its effect on embroidery was studied. These...
The state of Himachal Pradesh was renowned for its spectacular pahari embroidery (kadai/ kashida)... more The state of Himachal Pradesh was renowned for its spectacular pahari embroidery (kadai/ kashida). The embroidery was known for its popular coverlets known as ‘Chamba Rumals’ as well as household articles and apparel such as wall hangings, cholies, caps, dice boards, hand fans etc. On the basis of the line drawing, embroidery stitches, and subjects two distinct styles were evident i.e folk style and miniature style (Pathak, 2010). The early designs were folk, devised by women and drawn from their own intimate life. Later, the Mughal paintings began to influence art expressions, especially pahari miniature paintings which in turn had a direct impact on the development of embroidery craft of Chamba (Chattopadhyay, 1975). The folk style of Chamba embroidery was an essential outcome of the creativity of the womenfolk of Chamba while working during the hours of leisure (Watt, 1903). On the other hand, the miniature style of embroidery was greatly inspired by the art of pahari painting. It, therefore, at times acquired its epithet as, ‘painting done with a needle’. The drawing was executed in outlines with fine brush by the accomplished pahari painters. The ladies of the royal household or the wives of the nobles also used to embroider these well composed rumals in the leisure time as a pastime activity (Sharma, 2008).
The pictorial qualities of these coverlets had been much studied by several scholars. However, its technical study and decorative characteristics had not got much attention, which is the focus of this paper. Technical characteristics included different types of stitches, direction of stitches and outline stitch. Whereas, decorative characteristics include features which were extensively used to enhance visual appeal and aesthetics like color, ornamentation (shingar), textures, finishing stitches (sajawati tankae) and edgings. Several interesitng and important aspects of embroidery tradition has come out through this study.
The craft from region gets strong foothold only when it is imbibe in its daily life needs and soc... more The craft from region gets strong foothold only when it is imbibe in its daily life needs and social customs. The exquisite chamba embroidery was a fitting example of an endearing folk culture of chamba which was patronized by the royalty. In chamba the handicraft of embroidery was dependent almost entirely on one of the social customs of the people. The development of the craft came to a fine state of perfection, and was preserved in different form like religious textiles, apparel and other utilitarian household objects. 1 The religious embroideries are coverlets, gaumukhi (beads cover), book wrapper, while cholies (blouses) patka (waistband), caps are in the group of apparel and wall hanging, pillow cover, hand fans, chaupad spread. Usually, the articles were worked differently unlike rumals with respect to raw material, stitches, designs and motifs. The layout of the articles depended on the shape, size and utility. Varied designs and motifs were imaginatively created in articles comprising of floral, bird animal which can be free hand curved designs and geometrical patterns. Both variations were given different treatment in drawing, stitching, colour, subject etc, which becomes its characteristic features. Mostly articles were worked in single sided stitches excluding coverlets and hand fans. The stitches most frequently used were single sided darning stitch in long and short stitches, satin stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch, double cross stitch and herring bone stitch. The present paper would focus on surface analysis on design basis; their usage and present status of these articles. Different embroidered articles were made for day-today life:
Research Reach,Journal of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan College of Home Science, 2017
Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was famous for embroidery known as pahari embroidery.The most po... more Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was famous for embroidery known as pahari embroidery.The most popular article made was embroidered coverlets and hangings known as dhkanu(square coverlets) or chhabu (circular coverlets) used for covering the ceremonial gifts as well as offerings made both for gods and rulers (Sharma, 2009). In later centuries, unavailability of silk yarns and inappropriate use of colors adversely affected the quality of embroidered products.Hence, a sustainable approach was adopted to achieve the aesthetics of embroidery and to explore new possibilities under changed circumstances. The study was undertaken to develop standardized recipes for dyeing base cloth and untwisted yarns used for embroidery in traditional color palette using natural dyes available locally. This would comprise of extraction, application of selected natural dyes on cotton fabric and silk yarns as well as testing of dyed material for color fastness properties. Natural sources of dyes that were easily available to the artisans in Chamba were selected for dyeing. Also, due to limitations of infrastructure available with artisans, ease and simplicity of application of dyes was of utmost importance. Bleached cotton fabric was dyed in a color used traditionally for embroidery. The shades developed for embroidery yarns were in line with those used in earlier times in 18th century. Dyed fabric and embroidery yarns were color fast to washing, dry cleaning and light. Intervention with the artisans was carried out by conducting interactive workshops and follow up field visits to Chamba. Interventions through workshops helped in capacity building of the artisans and proved invaluable. They helped the artisans to reorient themselves towards sustenance of the traditional form of craft.
- International Journal of Applied Home Science, 2017
In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Cha... more In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Chamba embroidery was one of the finest embroideries of India. However, for sustaining the craft in local environment, it is crucial to study the traditional resources, their significance along with contemporary substitutes available in recent times. In the field survey conducted it was observed, varied fabrics were being used for Chamba embroidery which were not suitable in terms of fiber type, thickness and color. It was one of the prime factors contributing towards decline of quality of embroidered products. The present research was undertaken to develop criteria's for selection of fabric appropriate for double sided embroidered coverlets, articles with folk embroidery and single sided embroidery. Varied range of fabrics was collected and documented in form of fabric catalogue. The relationship between thread count of different fabric types and its effect on embroidery was studied. These embroidered samples were closely examined to see if the needle passed through the fabric easily, double sided satin stitch appeared same on both sides of fabric and whether the stitches laid flat on the fabric surface or not. It was also found that higher thread count resulted in finer fabric and produced better quality of workmanship. Fabrics with lesser thread count were found suitable for simpler and less detailed work such as floral, animal figures or for utilitarian purposes with single sided embroidery.
Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab have been famous for its textile industry. ... more Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab have been famous for its textile industry. The tradition of rumal (coverlet) embroidery was prevalent throughout this region. The most popular article made was embroidered coverlets and hangings known as dhkanu (square coverlets) or chhabu (circular coverlets) used for covering the ceremonial gifts as well as offerings made both for gods and rulers(1). In the first half of 19 th century, the embroidery activities declined in this region on withdrawal of patronage and radical political changes in the region. However, the tradition of embroidery was still continuing in Chamba but it lost its artistic element and reduced to mere embroidery (2). One of the significant factors declining the quality of embroidered products was deviation from traditional technique and decorative features seen in earlier artifacts. In present paper attempt was made to identify important characteristics of craft with respect to rumal and other articles made in embroidery. The significant findings were studied from photographs of museum pieces and personal collections. Technique was classified and studied with respect to stitch direction, filling stitches and outline stitches. Furthermore, ornamental features were also studied which were integral part of embroidery.
Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was known for distinctive embroidery in form of coverlets and ha... more Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was known for distinctive embroidery in form of coverlets and hangings generically known as ‘Chamba rumals. Chamba rumals were usually elaborate compositions on cotton fabrics embroidered with untwisted silk yarns in gay and harmonious colors. The early designs were folk and later with development of pahari miniature paintings, the embroidery in miniature style developed which was widely practiced. The pictorial qualities of these coverlets had been much studied by several scholars. But its technical study, which was the focus of this paper, had not got much attention. The main focus was on different types of stitches used, its variations, stitch direction and outline stitches. Secondary information was obtained through review of literature and a detailed study of old rumals which were sourced from various museums, libraries and government organizations. Primary information was obtained through exploratory field survey of Chamba town and its periphery areas. Several interesting and important aspects of embroidery tradition of Chamba rumal have come out in this study. It was found that most of them were no longer being used by artisans. Intervention with the artisans was carried out by conducting interactive workshops and follow up field visits to Chamba. Interventions through workshops helped in capacity building of the artisans and proved invaluable. They helped the artisans to reorient themselves towards sustenance of the traditional form of craft.
Asia InCH- Encyclopedia of Intangible Cultural Heritage, asiainch.org, 2018
Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab (present day Himachal Pradesh or Pahari sta... more Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab (present day Himachal Pradesh or Pahari states) were well known for tradition of illustrious embroidery on articles made by women in their leisure time with great passion. The embroidery was seen on religious textiles, apparel and other utilitarian household objects. Since the Pahari embroidery was widespread in larger area, different styles of embroidery were discerned yet distinctive in treatments given to each one of them. The most acclaimed were double sided embroidered coverlets and hangings known as dhkanu (square coverlets) or chhabu (circular coverlets) used for covering the ceremonial gifts as well as offerings made both for gods and rulers (Sharma, 2009). However, the other articles were equally fascinating but not much attention was given to their documentation in comparison to embroidered coverlets. The double sided coverlets are still made in Chamba but other styles of Pahari embroidery are no longer practiced. The present research paper focused on documentation of diverse range of stitches, textures and ornamentation used in different styles of Pahari embroidery. The unnoticed facets of the craft were observed in a detailed study of old rumals and articles in collection of various museums across the country as well as networking with the craftspeople in the area of the study. The main characteristics of the craft were identified on basis of styles of Pahari embroidery viz. single sided and double sided which were further categorized as technical and decorative characteristics.
Embroidered coverlets of Chamba were famous for their exquisite use of narrative composition, ble... more Embroidered coverlets of Chamba were famous for their exquisite use of narrative composition, blend of colors and magnificent workmanship of stitches. It was observed that the along with the technical domination the craft also visualize superiority in use of ornamental features. However, in present times, absence of technical, decorative characteristics used traditionally in embroidery and oversimplification of designs was one of the chief factors in declining the aesthetics of craft. In present research paper detailed study of decorative aspects of craft with use of metal threads were emphasized. In exploratory field survey, information was obtained from secondary and primary sources based in Chamba and its periphery areas within radius of 15 kms. Several unnoticed facets of the craft were observed in a detailed study of old rumals in collection of various museums across the country as well as networking with the craftspeople in the area of the study. It was observed that in earlier specimen variety of textures and detailed ornamentation was carried out using metallic threads and embroidery threads. Apart from use of metallic yarns, textures were created using voiding technique. Keywords: Embroidered Coverlets, Chamba, Decorative Characteristics, Metal Threads, Ornamentation, Textures
Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab have been famous for its textile industry. ... more Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab have been famous for its textile industry. The tradition of rumal (coverlet) embroidery was prevalent throughout this region. The most popular article made was embroidered coverlets and hangings known as dhkanu (square coverlets) or chhabu (circular coverlets) used for covering the ceremonial gifts as well as offerings made both for gods and rulers(Sharma, 2009). In the first half of 19th century, the embroidery activities declined in this region on withdrawal of patronage and radical political changes in the region. However, the tradition of embroidery was still continuing in Chamba but it lost its artistic element and reduced to mere embroidery (Chattopadhaya, 1964). One of the significant factors declining the quality of embroidered products was deviation from traditional technique and decorative features seen in earlier artifacts. In present paper attempt was made to identify important characteristics of craft with respect to rumal and other articles made in embroidery. The significant findings were studied from photographs of museum pieces and personal collections. Technique was classified and studied with respect to stitch direction, filling stitches and outline stitches. Furthermore, ornamental features were also studied which were integral part of embroidery.
international journal of applied Home Science, Volume 4 (3 & 4), , 2017
In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Cha... more In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Chamba embroidery was one of the finest embroideries of India. However, for sustaining the craft in local environment, it is crucial to study the traditional resources, their significance along with contemporary substitutes available in recent times. In the field survey conducted it was observed, varied fabrics were being used for Chamba embroidery which were not suitable in terms of fiber type, thickness and color. It was one of the prime factors contributing towards decline of quality of embroidered products. The present research was undertaken to develop criteria’s for selection of fabric appropriate for double sided embroidered coverlets, articles with folk embroidery and single sided embroidery. Varied range of fabrics was collected and documented in form of fabric catalogue. The relationship between thread count of different fabric types and its effect on embroidery was studied. These embroidered samples were closely examined to see if the needle passed through the fabric easily, double sided satin stitch appeared same on both sides of fabric and whether the stitches laid flat on the fabric surface or not. It was also found that higher thread count resulted in finer fabric and produced better quality of workmanship. Fabrics with lesser thread count were found suitable for simpler and less detailed work such as floral, animal figures or for utilitarian purposes with single sided embroidery. Keywords: Chamba Embroidery, Folk Embroidery, Fabric Catalogue, Thread Count, Satin Stitch
Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was known for distinctive embroidery in form of coverlets and ha... more Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was known for distinctive embroidery in form of coverlets and hangings generically known as ‘Chamba rumals. Chamba rumals were usually elaborate compositions on cotton fabrics embroidered with untwisted silk yarns in gay and harmonious colors. The early designs were folk and later with development of pahari miniature paintings, the embroidery in miniature style developed which was widely practiced. The pictorial qualities of these coverlets had been much studied by several scholars. But its technical study, which was the focus of this paper, had not got much attention. The main focus was on different types of stitches used, its variations, stitch direction and outline stitches. Secondary information was obtained through review of literature and a detailed study of old rumals which were sourced from various museums, libraries and government organizations. Primary information was obtained through exploratory field survey of Chamba town and its periphery areas. Several interesting and important aspects of embroidery tradition of Chamba rumal have come out in this study. It was found that most of them were no longer being used by artisans. Intervention with the artisans was carried out by conducting interactive workshops and follow up field visits to Chamba. Interventions through workshops helped in capacity building of the artisans and proved invaluable. They helped the artisans to reorient themselves towards sustenance of the traditional form of craft.
Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was famous for embroidery known as pahari embroidery. The most p... more Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was famous for embroidery known as pahari embroidery. The most popular article made was embroidered coverlets and hangings known as dhkanu (square coverlets) or chhabu (circular coverlets) used for covering the ceremonial gifts as well as offerings made both for gods and rulers (Sharma, 2009). In later centuries, unavailability of silk yarns and inappropriate use of colors adversely affected the quality of embroidered products. Hence, a sustainable approach was adopted to achieve the aesthetics of embroidery and to explore new possibilities under changed circumstances. The study was undertaken to develop standardized recipes for dyeing base cloth and untwisted yarns used for embroidery in traditional color palette using natural dyes available locally. This would comprise of extraction, application of selected natural dyes on cotton fabric and silk yarns as well as testing of dyed material for color fastness properties. Natural sources of dyes that were easily available to the artisans in Chamba were selected for dyeing. Also, due to limitations of infrastructure available with artisans, ease and simplicity of application of dyes was of utmost importance. Bleached cotton fabric was dyed in a color used traditionally for embroidery. The shades developed for embroidery yarns were in line with those used in earlier times in 18th century. Dyed fabric and embroidery yarns were color fast to washing, dry cleaning and light. Intervention with the artisans was carried out by conducting interactive workshops and follow up field visits to Chamba. Interventions through workshops helped in capacity building of the artisans and proved invaluable. They helped the artisans to reorient themselves towards sustenance of the traditional form of craft.
KEYWORDS: Pahari embroidery, sustainable approach, extraction, application of dyes, color fastness test, intervention
Textiles: Binding Threads Between Cultures from National Museum Collections, 2019
A large embroidered temple hanging depict scenes from Ramayana was accuired by the National museu... more A large embroidered temple hanging depict scenes from Ramayana was accuired by the National museum in 1962, which is unique work of art of mid 18th century from south india. With the rare subject, unusual size and exquisite hand embroidered temple hanging has always attracted the attention of scholars and was recently displayed in ‘Nauras and Fabric of India’ exhibitions in India and UK respectively. The present research paper focused on stitch analysis of this rare piece which also gave insight to broad spectrum of regional variations of embroidery present in the South India.
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, 2017
Abstract
Designs and motifs in traditional Chamba embroideries have deep rooted cultural signific... more Abstract Designs and motifs in traditional Chamba embroideries have deep rooted cultural significance. They were symbolic of the beliefs of the community who created embroidered masterpieces using the simplest of raw materials and stitches. The designs and motifs used were very specific to embroideries and characterized by the selective treatment given to them. In order to sustain this craft the author considered it crucial to document the original designs and motifs along with other aspects of the craft. The themes represented in embroidered coverlets of Chamba are well known and have been interpreted by many scholars. However, the varied motifs used in the embroideries need to be documented, which was the focus of this paper. In an exploratory field survey, it was observed that the embroiderers were not well versed in drawing and did not have access to the traditional themes, designs and motifs. Therefore, a ‘design catalogue’ was developed for capacity building of artisans and for use as reference material to create awareness with respect to traditional themes, designs and motifs. This paper presents the research undertaken in the production of the ‘design catalogue’, which included processing of 137 photographs of museum pieces, development and the classification of 768 sketched motifs. The observation of two different styles of motif; folk and miniature style. The development of the catalogue is described and subsequent intervention work with artisans, product development and exhibition towards sustenance of the traditional craft of Chamba embroidery. Key words: Embroidered Coverlets; Chamba; Design Catalogue; Folk Style; Miniature Style
In Indian textile's context, sustainability very aptly signifies subsistence living, following tr... more In Indian textile's context, sustainability very aptly signifies subsistence living, following traditions, using indigenous resources, living with a minimum, highlighting the notion of recycling and reuse, and being eco friendly. In today's time, sustainability and revival of traditional crafts are much sought after topics for discussion in all spheres. As much these concerns have caught attention all around, in India the concept of sustainability is age-old. This can be understood by looking at many of our ancient crafts such as Kantha, which evolved beautifully from quilting craft of joining waste scraps of fabric to magnificent embroidery. The embroidered products created from piles of worn-out fabrics are so much rejoiced and praiseworthy in collections of museums all around the world. Many such craft processes exist here which are based on utilizing minimum resources releasing zero waste products or carbon footprints and cause minimum harm to the environment. Since ancient times despite having a strong foothold in technology, utilizing the best possible processes and raw materials our crafts have witnessed a downfall in quality in recent times. The present research paper would review these limiting factors, which are declining aesthetic quality of crafts. The factors discussed are the outcomes of the primary research undertaken for the doctoral thesis titled 'Capacity building of artisans for the sustenance of traditional Chamba embroidery'. These can be beneficially taken into consideration for design interventions for embroidery.
ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts, 2022
Pahari embroidery was practised in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The ... more Pahari embroidery was practised in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The surface ornamentation of these articles with respect to design, raw material and technique were beautifully adapted according to their utility. The popular product in embroidery is Chamba rumals locally known as dhaknu or chabbu. In addition, equally fascinating embroidery was seen on household products which were meant for personal use and decoration in single sided stitches. The most startling are cholies from Himachal Pradesh in terms of their construction and designs. The cholies from given museums were studied namely Bhuri Singh Museum, Chamba; Government Museum and Art Gallery, Chandigarh National Museum, New Delhi and personal collection. Evidently they are characterized by selective treatment given to them in terms of construction, materials, stitches, adaptation of designs and motifs. Apart from embroidery miniature paintings also indicated the relevance of traditional costumes ...
SHODHKOSH: JOURNAL OF VISUAL AND PERFORMING ARTS, 2022
Pahari embroidery was practiced in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The ... more Pahari embroidery was practiced in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The surface ornamentation of these articles with respect to design, raw material and technique were beautifully adapted according to their utility. The popular product in embroidery is Chamba rumals locally known as dhaknu or chabbu. In addition, equally fascinating embroidery was seen on household products which were meant for personal use and decoration in single sided stitches. The most startling are cholies from Himachal Pradesh in terms of their construction and designs. The cholies from given museums were studied namely Bhuri Singh Museum, Chamba, Government Museum and Art Gallery, Chandigarh National Museum, New Delhi, and personal collection. Evidently, they are characterized by selective treatment given to them in terms of construction, materials, stitches, adaptation of designs and motifs. Apart from embroidery miniature paintings also indicated the relevance of traditional costumes in socio cultural traditions. Interestingly two different kinds are observed in cholies according to their construction. Likewise on basis of designs and motifs two different styles in embroidery are seen i.e., free hand curved designs and geometrical designs. The documentation of these designs is done by redrawing the traditional motifs with help of miniature artist Shri Prixit Sharma, Chamba. The stitches are also classified as filling, outline and finishing used in single sided embroidery. Conspicuously these minute variations lend special features to choli blouses and distinguish them from other form of embroideries from the pahari region.
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, Jan 2, 2017
Abstract Designs and motifs in traditional Chamba embroideries have deep rooted cultural signific... more Abstract Designs and motifs in traditional Chamba embroideries have deep rooted cultural significance. They were symbolic of the beliefs of the community who created embroidered masterpieces using the simplest of raw materials and stitches. The designs and motifs used were very specific to embroideries and characterized by the selective treatment given to them. In order to sustain this craft the author considered it crucial to document the original designs and motifs along with other aspects of the craft. The themes represented in embroidered coverlets of Chamba are well known and have been interpreted by many scholars. However, the varied motifs used in the embroideries need to be documented, which was the focus of this paper. In an exploratory field survey, it was observed that current embroiderers were not well versed in drawing and did not have access to the traditional themes, designs and motifs. Therefore, a “design catalogue” was developed for capacity building of artisans and for use as reference material to create awareness with respect to traditional themes, designs and motifs. This paper presents the research undertaken in the production of the “design catalogue”, which included processing of 137 photographs of museum pieces, development and the classification of 768 sketched motifs. The observation of two different styles of motif (folk and miniature style) is noted, the development of the catalogue is described alongside subsequent intervention work with artisans, product development work and exhibition towards sustenance of the traditional craft of Chamba embroidery.
In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Cha... more In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Chamba embroidery was one of the finest embroideries of India. However, for sustaining the craft in local environment, it is crucial to study the traditional resources, their significance along with contemporary substitutes available in recent times. In the field survey conducted it was observed, varied fabrics were being used for Chamba embroidery which were not suitable in terms of fiber type, thickness and color. It was one of the prime factors contributing towards decline of quality of embroidered products. The present research was undertaken to develop criteria’s for selection of fabric appropriate for double sided embroidered coverlets, articles with folk embroidery and single sided embroidery. Varied range of fabrics was collected and documented in form of fabric catalogue. The relationship between thread count of different fabric types and its effect on embroidery was studied. These...
The state of Himachal Pradesh was renowned for its spectacular pahari embroidery (kadai/ kashida)... more The state of Himachal Pradesh was renowned for its spectacular pahari embroidery (kadai/ kashida). The embroidery was known for its popular coverlets known as ‘Chamba Rumals’ as well as household articles and apparel such as wall hangings, cholies, caps, dice boards, hand fans etc. On the basis of the line drawing, embroidery stitches, and subjects two distinct styles were evident i.e folk style and miniature style (Pathak, 2010). The early designs were folk, devised by women and drawn from their own intimate life. Later, the Mughal paintings began to influence art expressions, especially pahari miniature paintings which in turn had a direct impact on the development of embroidery craft of Chamba (Chattopadhyay, 1975). The folk style of Chamba embroidery was an essential outcome of the creativity of the womenfolk of Chamba while working during the hours of leisure (Watt, 1903). On the other hand, the miniature style of embroidery was greatly inspired by the art of pahari painting. It, therefore, at times acquired its epithet as, ‘painting done with a needle’. The drawing was executed in outlines with fine brush by the accomplished pahari painters. The ladies of the royal household or the wives of the nobles also used to embroider these well composed rumals in the leisure time as a pastime activity (Sharma, 2008).
The pictorial qualities of these coverlets had been much studied by several scholars. However, its technical study and decorative characteristics had not got much attention, which is the focus of this paper. Technical characteristics included different types of stitches, direction of stitches and outline stitch. Whereas, decorative characteristics include features which were extensively used to enhance visual appeal and aesthetics like color, ornamentation (shingar), textures, finishing stitches (sajawati tankae) and edgings. Several interesitng and important aspects of embroidery tradition has come out through this study.
The craft from region gets strong foothold only when it is imbibe in its daily life needs and soc... more The craft from region gets strong foothold only when it is imbibe in its daily life needs and social customs. The exquisite chamba embroidery was a fitting example of an endearing folk culture of chamba which was patronized by the royalty. In chamba the handicraft of embroidery was dependent almost entirely on one of the social customs of the people. The development of the craft came to a fine state of perfection, and was preserved in different form like religious textiles, apparel and other utilitarian household objects. 1 The religious embroideries are coverlets, gaumukhi (beads cover), book wrapper, while cholies (blouses) patka (waistband), caps are in the group of apparel and wall hanging, pillow cover, hand fans, chaupad spread. Usually, the articles were worked differently unlike rumals with respect to raw material, stitches, designs and motifs. The layout of the articles depended on the shape, size and utility. Varied designs and motifs were imaginatively created in articles comprising of floral, bird animal which can be free hand curved designs and geometrical patterns. Both variations were given different treatment in drawing, stitching, colour, subject etc, which becomes its characteristic features. Mostly articles were worked in single sided stitches excluding coverlets and hand fans. The stitches most frequently used were single sided darning stitch in long and short stitches, satin stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch, double cross stitch and herring bone stitch. The present paper would focus on surface analysis on design basis; their usage and present status of these articles. Different embroidered articles were made for day-today life:
Research Reach,Journal of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan College of Home Science, 2017
Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was famous for embroidery known as pahari embroidery.The most po... more Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was famous for embroidery known as pahari embroidery.The most popular article made was embroidered coverlets and hangings known as dhkanu(square coverlets) or chhabu (circular coverlets) used for covering the ceremonial gifts as well as offerings made both for gods and rulers (Sharma, 2009). In later centuries, unavailability of silk yarns and inappropriate use of colors adversely affected the quality of embroidered products.Hence, a sustainable approach was adopted to achieve the aesthetics of embroidery and to explore new possibilities under changed circumstances. The study was undertaken to develop standardized recipes for dyeing base cloth and untwisted yarns used for embroidery in traditional color palette using natural dyes available locally. This would comprise of extraction, application of selected natural dyes on cotton fabric and silk yarns as well as testing of dyed material for color fastness properties. Natural sources of dyes that were easily available to the artisans in Chamba were selected for dyeing. Also, due to limitations of infrastructure available with artisans, ease and simplicity of application of dyes was of utmost importance. Bleached cotton fabric was dyed in a color used traditionally for embroidery. The shades developed for embroidery yarns were in line with those used in earlier times in 18th century. Dyed fabric and embroidery yarns were color fast to washing, dry cleaning and light. Intervention with the artisans was carried out by conducting interactive workshops and follow up field visits to Chamba. Interventions through workshops helped in capacity building of the artisans and proved invaluable. They helped the artisans to reorient themselves towards sustenance of the traditional form of craft.
- International Journal of Applied Home Science, 2017
In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Cha... more In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Chamba embroidery was one of the finest embroideries of India. However, for sustaining the craft in local environment, it is crucial to study the traditional resources, their significance along with contemporary substitutes available in recent times. In the field survey conducted it was observed, varied fabrics were being used for Chamba embroidery which were not suitable in terms of fiber type, thickness and color. It was one of the prime factors contributing towards decline of quality of embroidered products. The present research was undertaken to develop criteria's for selection of fabric appropriate for double sided embroidered coverlets, articles with folk embroidery and single sided embroidery. Varied range of fabrics was collected and documented in form of fabric catalogue. The relationship between thread count of different fabric types and its effect on embroidery was studied. These embroidered samples were closely examined to see if the needle passed through the fabric easily, double sided satin stitch appeared same on both sides of fabric and whether the stitches laid flat on the fabric surface or not. It was also found that higher thread count resulted in finer fabric and produced better quality of workmanship. Fabrics with lesser thread count were found suitable for simpler and less detailed work such as floral, animal figures or for utilitarian purposes with single sided embroidery.
Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab have been famous for its textile industry. ... more Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab have been famous for its textile industry. The tradition of rumal (coverlet) embroidery was prevalent throughout this region. The most popular article made was embroidered coverlets and hangings known as dhkanu (square coverlets) or chhabu (circular coverlets) used for covering the ceremonial gifts as well as offerings made both for gods and rulers(1). In the first half of 19 th century, the embroidery activities declined in this region on withdrawal of patronage and radical political changes in the region. However, the tradition of embroidery was still continuing in Chamba but it lost its artistic element and reduced to mere embroidery (2). One of the significant factors declining the quality of embroidered products was deviation from traditional technique and decorative features seen in earlier artifacts. In present paper attempt was made to identify important characteristics of craft with respect to rumal and other articles made in embroidery. The significant findings were studied from photographs of museum pieces and personal collections. Technique was classified and studied with respect to stitch direction, filling stitches and outline stitches. Furthermore, ornamental features were also studied which were integral part of embroidery.
Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was known for distinctive embroidery in form of coverlets and ha... more Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was known for distinctive embroidery in form of coverlets and hangings generically known as ‘Chamba rumals. Chamba rumals were usually elaborate compositions on cotton fabrics embroidered with untwisted silk yarns in gay and harmonious colors. The early designs were folk and later with development of pahari miniature paintings, the embroidery in miniature style developed which was widely practiced. The pictorial qualities of these coverlets had been much studied by several scholars. But its technical study, which was the focus of this paper, had not got much attention. The main focus was on different types of stitches used, its variations, stitch direction and outline stitches. Secondary information was obtained through review of literature and a detailed study of old rumals which were sourced from various museums, libraries and government organizations. Primary information was obtained through exploratory field survey of Chamba town and its periphery areas. Several interesting and important aspects of embroidery tradition of Chamba rumal have come out in this study. It was found that most of them were no longer being used by artisans. Intervention with the artisans was carried out by conducting interactive workshops and follow up field visits to Chamba. Interventions through workshops helped in capacity building of the artisans and proved invaluable. They helped the artisans to reorient themselves towards sustenance of the traditional form of craft.
Asia InCH- Encyclopedia of Intangible Cultural Heritage, asiainch.org, 2018
Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab (present day Himachal Pradesh or Pahari sta... more Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab (present day Himachal Pradesh or Pahari states) were well known for tradition of illustrious embroidery on articles made by women in their leisure time with great passion. The embroidery was seen on religious textiles, apparel and other utilitarian household objects. Since the Pahari embroidery was widespread in larger area, different styles of embroidery were discerned yet distinctive in treatments given to each one of them. The most acclaimed were double sided embroidered coverlets and hangings known as dhkanu (square coverlets) or chhabu (circular coverlets) used for covering the ceremonial gifts as well as offerings made both for gods and rulers (Sharma, 2009). However, the other articles were equally fascinating but not much attention was given to their documentation in comparison to embroidered coverlets. The double sided coverlets are still made in Chamba but other styles of Pahari embroidery are no longer practiced. The present research paper focused on documentation of diverse range of stitches, textures and ornamentation used in different styles of Pahari embroidery. The unnoticed facets of the craft were observed in a detailed study of old rumals and articles in collection of various museums across the country as well as networking with the craftspeople in the area of the study. The main characteristics of the craft were identified on basis of styles of Pahari embroidery viz. single sided and double sided which were further categorized as technical and decorative characteristics.
Embroidered coverlets of Chamba were famous for their exquisite use of narrative composition, ble... more Embroidered coverlets of Chamba were famous for their exquisite use of narrative composition, blend of colors and magnificent workmanship of stitches. It was observed that the along with the technical domination the craft also visualize superiority in use of ornamental features. However, in present times, absence of technical, decorative characteristics used traditionally in embroidery and oversimplification of designs was one of the chief factors in declining the aesthetics of craft. In present research paper detailed study of decorative aspects of craft with use of metal threads were emphasized. In exploratory field survey, information was obtained from secondary and primary sources based in Chamba and its periphery areas within radius of 15 kms. Several unnoticed facets of the craft were observed in a detailed study of old rumals in collection of various museums across the country as well as networking with the craftspeople in the area of the study. It was observed that in earlier specimen variety of textures and detailed ornamentation was carried out using metallic threads and embroidery threads. Apart from use of metallic yarns, textures were created using voiding technique. Keywords: Embroidered Coverlets, Chamba, Decorative Characteristics, Metal Threads, Ornamentation, Textures
Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab have been famous for its textile industry. ... more Since olden times, before 1948, Hill states of Punjab have been famous for its textile industry. The tradition of rumal (coverlet) embroidery was prevalent throughout this region. The most popular article made was embroidered coverlets and hangings known as dhkanu (square coverlets) or chhabu (circular coverlets) used for covering the ceremonial gifts as well as offerings made both for gods and rulers(Sharma, 2009). In the first half of 19th century, the embroidery activities declined in this region on withdrawal of patronage and radical political changes in the region. However, the tradition of embroidery was still continuing in Chamba but it lost its artistic element and reduced to mere embroidery (Chattopadhaya, 1964). One of the significant factors declining the quality of embroidered products was deviation from traditional technique and decorative features seen in earlier artifacts. In present paper attempt was made to identify important characteristics of craft with respect to rumal and other articles made in embroidery. The significant findings were studied from photographs of museum pieces and personal collections. Technique was classified and studied with respect to stitch direction, filling stitches and outline stitches. Furthermore, ornamental features were also studied which were integral part of embroidery.
international journal of applied Home Science, Volume 4 (3 & 4), , 2017
In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Cha... more In embroidery, selection of right kind of fabric was imperative in achieving ultimate effect. Chamba embroidery was one of the finest embroideries of India. However, for sustaining the craft in local environment, it is crucial to study the traditional resources, their significance along with contemporary substitutes available in recent times. In the field survey conducted it was observed, varied fabrics were being used for Chamba embroidery which were not suitable in terms of fiber type, thickness and color. It was one of the prime factors contributing towards decline of quality of embroidered products. The present research was undertaken to develop criteria’s for selection of fabric appropriate for double sided embroidered coverlets, articles with folk embroidery and single sided embroidery. Varied range of fabrics was collected and documented in form of fabric catalogue. The relationship between thread count of different fabric types and its effect on embroidery was studied. These embroidered samples were closely examined to see if the needle passed through the fabric easily, double sided satin stitch appeared same on both sides of fabric and whether the stitches laid flat on the fabric surface or not. It was also found that higher thread count resulted in finer fabric and produced better quality of workmanship. Fabrics with lesser thread count were found suitable for simpler and less detailed work such as floral, animal figures or for utilitarian purposes with single sided embroidery. Keywords: Chamba Embroidery, Folk Embroidery, Fabric Catalogue, Thread Count, Satin Stitch
Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was known for distinctive embroidery in form of coverlets and ha... more Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was known for distinctive embroidery in form of coverlets and hangings generically known as ‘Chamba rumals. Chamba rumals were usually elaborate compositions on cotton fabrics embroidered with untwisted silk yarns in gay and harmonious colors. The early designs were folk and later with development of pahari miniature paintings, the embroidery in miniature style developed which was widely practiced. The pictorial qualities of these coverlets had been much studied by several scholars. But its technical study, which was the focus of this paper, had not got much attention. The main focus was on different types of stitches used, its variations, stitch direction and outline stitches. Secondary information was obtained through review of literature and a detailed study of old rumals which were sourced from various museums, libraries and government organizations. Primary information was obtained through exploratory field survey of Chamba town and its periphery areas. Several interesting and important aspects of embroidery tradition of Chamba rumal have come out in this study. It was found that most of them were no longer being used by artisans. Intervention with the artisans was carried out by conducting interactive workshops and follow up field visits to Chamba. Interventions through workshops helped in capacity building of the artisans and proved invaluable. They helped the artisans to reorient themselves towards sustenance of the traditional form of craft.
Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was famous for embroidery known as pahari embroidery. The most p... more Chamba state of Himachal Pradesh was famous for embroidery known as pahari embroidery. The most popular article made was embroidered coverlets and hangings known as dhkanu (square coverlets) or chhabu (circular coverlets) used for covering the ceremonial gifts as well as offerings made both for gods and rulers (Sharma, 2009). In later centuries, unavailability of silk yarns and inappropriate use of colors adversely affected the quality of embroidered products. Hence, a sustainable approach was adopted to achieve the aesthetics of embroidery and to explore new possibilities under changed circumstances. The study was undertaken to develop standardized recipes for dyeing base cloth and untwisted yarns used for embroidery in traditional color palette using natural dyes available locally. This would comprise of extraction, application of selected natural dyes on cotton fabric and silk yarns as well as testing of dyed material for color fastness properties. Natural sources of dyes that were easily available to the artisans in Chamba were selected for dyeing. Also, due to limitations of infrastructure available with artisans, ease and simplicity of application of dyes was of utmost importance. Bleached cotton fabric was dyed in a color used traditionally for embroidery. The shades developed for embroidery yarns were in line with those used in earlier times in 18th century. Dyed fabric and embroidery yarns were color fast to washing, dry cleaning and light. Intervention with the artisans was carried out by conducting interactive workshops and follow up field visits to Chamba. Interventions through workshops helped in capacity building of the artisans and proved invaluable. They helped the artisans to reorient themselves towards sustenance of the traditional form of craft.
KEYWORDS: Pahari embroidery, sustainable approach, extraction, application of dyes, color fastness test, intervention
Textiles: Binding Threads Between Cultures from National Museum Collections, 2019
A large embroidered temple hanging depict scenes from Ramayana was accuired by the National museu... more A large embroidered temple hanging depict scenes from Ramayana was accuired by the National museum in 1962, which is unique work of art of mid 18th century from south india. With the rare subject, unusual size and exquisite hand embroidered temple hanging has always attracted the attention of scholars and was recently displayed in ‘Nauras and Fabric of India’ exhibitions in India and UK respectively. The present research paper focused on stitch analysis of this rare piece which also gave insight to broad spectrum of regional variations of embroidery present in the South India.
ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts, 2022
Pahari embroidery was practiced in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The ... more Pahari embroidery was practiced in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The surface ornamentation of these articles with respect to design, raw material and technique were beautifully adapted according to their utility. The popular product in embroidery is Chamba rumals locally known as dhaknu or chabbu. In addition, equally fascinating embroidery was seen on household products which were meant for personal use and decoration in single sided stitches. The most startling are cholies from Himachal Pradesh in terms of their construction and designs. The cholies from given museums were studied namely Bhuri Singh Museum, Chamba, Government Museum and Art Gallery, Chandigarh National Museum, New Delhi, and personal collection. Evidently, they are characterized by selective treatment given to them in terms of construction, materials, stitches, adaptation of designs and motifs. Apart from embroidery miniature paintings also indicated the relevance of traditional costumes in socio cultural traditions. Interestingly two different kinds are observed in cholies according to their construction. Likewise on basis of designs and motifs two different styles in embroidery are seen i.e., free hand curved designs and geometrical designs. The documentation of these designs is done by redrawing the traditional motifs with help of miniature artist Shri Prixit Sharma, Chamba. The stitches are also classified as filling, outline and finishing used in single sided embroidery. Conspicuously these minute variations lend special features to choli blouses and distinguish them from other form of embroideries from the pahari region.
ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts, 2022
Pahari embroidery was practiced in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The ... more Pahari embroidery was practiced in different parts in undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. The surface ornamentation of these articles with respect to design, raw material and technique were beautifully adapted according to their utility. The popular product in embroidery is Chamba rumals locally known as dhaknu or chabbu. In addition, equally fascinating embroidery was seen on household products which were meant for personal use and decoration in single sided stitches. The most startling are cholies from Himachal Pradesh in terms of their construction and designs. The cholies from given museums were studied namely Bhuri Singh Museum, Chamba, Government Museum and Art Gallery, Chandigarh National Museum, New Delhi, and personal collection. Evidently, they are characterized by selective treatment given to them in terms of construction, materials, stitches, adaptation of designs and motifs. Apart from embroidery miniature paintings also indicated the relevance of traditional costumes in socio cultural traditions. Interestingly two different kinds are observed in cholies according to their construction. Likewise on basis of designs and motifs two different styles in embroidery are seen i.e., free hand curved designs and geometrical designs. The documentation of these designs is done by redrawing the traditional motifs with help of miniature artist Shri Prixit Sharma, Chamba. The stitches are also classified as filling, outline and finishing used in single sided embroidery. Conspicuously these minute variations lend special features to choli blouses and distinguish them from other form of embroideries from the pahari region.
The book is the outcome of research initiated in 2009 aimed to document motifs of double-sided Ch... more The book is the outcome of research initiated in 2009 aimed to document motifs of double-sided Chamba rumals. Later, with continued involvement, it also divulged into single-sided embroidery from the western Himalayan region. This is known as pahari region; both embroidery styles are practiced in this vast region and are called pahari embroidery.
In the field survey, the purpose of making this book was realized where it was observed that the embroiderers were not well versed in drawing elaborate themes known for their intricacies. Moreover, they did not have access to the traditional themes, designs, and motifs. Instead, they drew by looking into calendars or drawing books for any reference while drawing or tracing. Most of the embroidery centres’ coordinators have known miniature artists and get their rumals or small designs directly from them. But, on the other hand, at the embroiderer's end who is not working in any centres, they make drawings independently or use tracing papers.
However, it was observed that these traced designs lacked clarity, fineness, and detailing. It is also essential to document the indigenous motifs of embroidery as these are the identity of that particular craft. Documentation will make these embroideries more interactive to the readers and help them understand their significance to a large extent.
Therefore, a design directory is developed for the capacity building of artisans, which can be used as reference material to reorient the artisans concerning traditional themes, designs, and motifs. The directory illustrates indigenous motifs of both embroidery styles, i.e., double-sided and single-sided embroidery practiced in the same region. In addition, it also documents indigenous stitches, decorative aspects in details. It will also bring a particular focus on single-sided embroidery, which is lesser-known. Finally, the rich collection of motifs will bring froth the splendour of pahari embroidery in totality.
The book is the outcome of research initiated in 2009 aimed to document motifs of double-sided Ch... more The book is the outcome of research initiated in 2009 aimed to document motifs of double-sided Chamba rumals. Later, with continued involvement, it also divulged into single-sided embroidery from the western Himalayan region. This is known as pahari region; both embroidery styles are practiced in this vast region and are called pahari embroidery.
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Papers by ROHINI ARORA
Designs and motifs in traditional Chamba embroideries have deep rooted cultural significance. They were symbolic of the beliefs of the community who created embroidered masterpieces using the simplest of raw materials and stitches. The designs and motifs used were very specific to embroideries and characterized by the selective treatment given to them. In order to sustain this craft the author considered it crucial to document the original designs and motifs along with other aspects of the craft. The themes represented in embroidered coverlets of Chamba are well known and have been interpreted by many scholars. However, the varied motifs used in the embroideries need to be documented, which was the focus of this paper. In an exploratory field survey, it was observed that the embroiderers were not well versed in drawing and did not have access to the traditional themes, designs and motifs. Therefore, a ‘design catalogue’ was developed for capacity building of artisans and for use as reference material to create awareness with respect to traditional themes, designs and motifs. This paper presents the research undertaken in the production of the ‘design catalogue’, which included processing of 137 photographs of museum pieces, development and the classification of 768 sketched motifs. The observation of two different styles of motif; folk and miniature style. The development of the catalogue is described and subsequent intervention work with artisans, product development and exhibition towards sustenance of the traditional craft of Chamba embroidery.
Key words: Embroidered Coverlets; Chamba; Design Catalogue; Folk Style; Miniature Style
The pictorial qualities of these coverlets had been much studied by several scholars. However, its technical study and decorative characteristics had not got much attention, which is the focus of this paper. Technical characteristics included different types of stitches, direction of stitches and outline stitch. Whereas, decorative characteristics include features which were extensively used to enhance visual appeal and aesthetics like color, ornamentation (shingar), textures, finishing stitches (sajawati tankae) and edgings. Several interesitng and important aspects of embroidery tradition has come out through this study.
offerings made both for gods and rulers (Sharma, 2009). In later centuries, unavailability of silk yarns and inappropriate use of colors adversely affected the quality of embroidered products.Hence, a sustainable approach was adopted to achieve the aesthetics of embroidery and to explore new possibilities under changed circumstances. The study was undertaken to develop
standardized recipes for dyeing base cloth and untwisted yarns used for embroidery in traditional color palette using natural dyes available locally. This would comprise of extraction, application of selected natural dyes on cotton fabric and silk yarns as well as testing of dyed material for color fastness properties. Natural sources of dyes that were easily available to the artisans in Chamba were selected for dyeing. Also, due to limitations of infrastructure available with artisans, ease and simplicity of application of dyes was of utmost importance. Bleached cotton fabric was dyed in a color used traditionally for embroidery. The shades developed for embroidery yarns were in line with those used in earlier times in 18th century. Dyed fabric and embroidery yarns were color fast to washing, dry cleaning and light. Intervention with the
artisans was carried out by conducting interactive workshops and follow up field visits to Chamba. Interventions through workshops helped in capacity building of the artisans and proved invaluable. They helped the artisans to reorient themselves towards sustenance of the traditional
form of craft.
Keywords: Embroidered Coverlets, Chamba, Decorative Characteristics, Metal Threads, Ornamentation, Textures
Keywords: Chamba Embroidery, Folk Embroidery, Fabric Catalogue, Thread Count, Satin Stitch
Keywords: Traditional technique, Technical characteristics, Embroidery stitches, Stitch direction, Outline stitch, Intervention
KEYWORDS: Pahari embroidery, sustainable approach, extraction, application of dyes, color fastness test, intervention
Designs and motifs in traditional Chamba embroideries have deep rooted cultural significance. They were symbolic of the beliefs of the community who created embroidered masterpieces using the simplest of raw materials and stitches. The designs and motifs used were very specific to embroideries and characterized by the selective treatment given to them. In order to sustain this craft the author considered it crucial to document the original designs and motifs along with other aspects of the craft. The themes represented in embroidered coverlets of Chamba are well known and have been interpreted by many scholars. However, the varied motifs used in the embroideries need to be documented, which was the focus of this paper. In an exploratory field survey, it was observed that the embroiderers were not well versed in drawing and did not have access to the traditional themes, designs and motifs. Therefore, a ‘design catalogue’ was developed for capacity building of artisans and for use as reference material to create awareness with respect to traditional themes, designs and motifs. This paper presents the research undertaken in the production of the ‘design catalogue’, which included processing of 137 photographs of museum pieces, development and the classification of 768 sketched motifs. The observation of two different styles of motif; folk and miniature style. The development of the catalogue is described and subsequent intervention work with artisans, product development and exhibition towards sustenance of the traditional craft of Chamba embroidery.
Key words: Embroidered Coverlets; Chamba; Design Catalogue; Folk Style; Miniature Style
The pictorial qualities of these coverlets had been much studied by several scholars. However, its technical study and decorative characteristics had not got much attention, which is the focus of this paper. Technical characteristics included different types of stitches, direction of stitches and outline stitch. Whereas, decorative characteristics include features which were extensively used to enhance visual appeal and aesthetics like color, ornamentation (shingar), textures, finishing stitches (sajawati tankae) and edgings. Several interesitng and important aspects of embroidery tradition has come out through this study.
offerings made both for gods and rulers (Sharma, 2009). In later centuries, unavailability of silk yarns and inappropriate use of colors adversely affected the quality of embroidered products.Hence, a sustainable approach was adopted to achieve the aesthetics of embroidery and to explore new possibilities under changed circumstances. The study was undertaken to develop
standardized recipes for dyeing base cloth and untwisted yarns used for embroidery in traditional color palette using natural dyes available locally. This would comprise of extraction, application of selected natural dyes on cotton fabric and silk yarns as well as testing of dyed material for color fastness properties. Natural sources of dyes that were easily available to the artisans in Chamba were selected for dyeing. Also, due to limitations of infrastructure available with artisans, ease and simplicity of application of dyes was of utmost importance. Bleached cotton fabric was dyed in a color used traditionally for embroidery. The shades developed for embroidery yarns were in line with those used in earlier times in 18th century. Dyed fabric and embroidery yarns were color fast to washing, dry cleaning and light. Intervention with the
artisans was carried out by conducting interactive workshops and follow up field visits to Chamba. Interventions through workshops helped in capacity building of the artisans and proved invaluable. They helped the artisans to reorient themselves towards sustenance of the traditional
form of craft.
Keywords: Embroidered Coverlets, Chamba, Decorative Characteristics, Metal Threads, Ornamentation, Textures
Keywords: Chamba Embroidery, Folk Embroidery, Fabric Catalogue, Thread Count, Satin Stitch
Keywords: Traditional technique, Technical characteristics, Embroidery stitches, Stitch direction, Outline stitch, Intervention
KEYWORDS: Pahari embroidery, sustainable approach, extraction, application of dyes, color fastness test, intervention
In the field survey, the purpose of making this book was realized where it was observed that the embroiderers were not well versed in drawing elaborate themes known for their intricacies. Moreover, they did not have access to the traditional themes, designs, and motifs. Instead, they drew by looking into calendars or drawing books for any reference while drawing or tracing.
Most of the embroidery centres’ coordinators have known miniature artists and get their rumals or small designs directly from them. But, on the other hand, at the embroiderer's end who is not working in any centres, they make drawings independently or use tracing papers.
However, it was observed that these traced designs lacked clarity, fineness, and detailing. It is also essential to document the indigenous motifs of embroidery as these are the identity of that particular craft. Documentation will make these embroideries more interactive to the readers and help them understand their significance to a large extent.
Therefore, a design directory is developed for the capacity building of artisans, which can be used as reference material to reorient the artisans concerning traditional themes, designs, and motifs. The directory illustrates indigenous motifs of both embroidery styles, i.e., double-sided and single-sided embroidery practiced in the same region. In addition, it also documents indigenous stitches, decorative aspects in details. It will also bring a particular focus on single-sided embroidery, which is lesser-known. Finally, the rich collection of motifs will bring froth the splendour of pahari embroidery in totality.