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Green papaya salad

"Som tam" redirects here. For the film, see Somtum (film).
Not to be confused with cơm tấm.

Green papaya salad (Burmese: သင်္ဘောသီးသုပ်; Khmer: បុកល្ហុង; Lao: ຕຳຫມາກຫຸ່ງ/ຕໍາສົ້ມ, pronounced [tàm mȁːk.hūŋ, tàm.sȍm]; Rakhine: ပဒကာသီးသုပ်; Thai: ส้มตำ, pronounced [sôm.tām], RTGS: somtam; Northeastern Thai: ตำบักหุ่ง/ตำส้ม, pronounced [tām bǎk.hūŋ, tām.sòm]; and Vietnamese: gỏi đu đủ) is a spicy salad made from shredded unripe papaya. It is generally believed to have been created by the Lao people[1][2][3][4] and is considered one of the national dishes of Laos.[5][6][7] Green papaya salad is also popular in neighbouring Thailand's Isan region, whose population is mainly composed of ethnic Lao and from where it spread to the rest of Thailand.[8][9][10][11][12][13] Green papaya salad has also spread to the rest of the continental Southeast Asia (Cambodia, Myanmar,[14] and Vietnam[15]), as well as Xishuangbanna (China).

Green papaya salad
Green papaya salad with yardlong beans, chili, pla ra, brined crab, hog plum and lime
TypeSalad
Place of originLaos
Region or stateLaos
Associated cuisineXishuangbanna (China), Burmese, Cambodian, Lao, Thai, Vietnamese
Main ingredientsGreen papaya

History

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Papayas and chili peppers were introduced to Southeast Asia by the Spanish and Portuguese explorers in the 17th century from the Americas.[16] Simon de la Loubère (1642-1729), a French diplomat, mentioned in his book that the cultivation of papaya was already widespread in Siam in 1693.[17][18] Although it is unknown when papayas and chili peppers entered Laos specifically, they had already been fully integrated into the Lao territory by the time Jean-Baptiste Pallegoix and Henri Mouhot visited in mid-1800s,[19][20] and were listed among key ingredients for preparing main Lao dishes.[21][22][23] Tam som was mentioned as a favorite Lao dish by a former Lao politician, Katay Don Sasorith (1904-1959), in a memoir recounting his experience during his primary school years in 1910s.[24] Papaya, among other fruits, were cultivated in Cambodia in the 1500s.[25][26] The Lao name for papaya is mak hung and was likely derived from l'hun or lohung/rohung as papayas are called in Khmer through Khmer Loeu living in provinces bordering the southeastern Laos.[27]

Thai historian Sujit Wongthes has speculated that the green papaya salad originated in the communities of ethnic Chinese–Lao settlers living in what is now Central Thailand, who adopted the ancient Lao tradition of preparing salads from fruits, called tam som, to make salads from papayas. The new dish became known as som tam (the reversed order of tam som) during the early Rattanakosin period in late 18th to early 19th centuries and, along with the papayas, then spread to today's Northeast Thailand following the construction of the Northeastern railway line during the turn of the 19th–20th centuries. The dish became more popular after the opening of Mittraphap Road in 1957, and has since become widely adopted by the ethnic Lao people of both Isan and Laos. Likewise, the hot flavour also spread to Isan and Laos from Central Thailand, which had been introduced to chilli peppers first.[28]

However, papayas and chili peppers were already integrated in the Lao territory and Lao culinary recipes in mid-1800s to early 1900s[19][20][21][24] while, during the 1950s and 1960s, green papaya salad and other Lao dishes were rarely known in Bangkok. They could only be found around the boxing stadium that gathered boxers and fans from Northeastern Thailand, as well as in mobile food carts outside construction sites with Northeastern workers and gas stations serving long-distance bus drivers. Some believe that som tam gained popularity among the young Thai generations following an active publicity in the 1970s.[29][30] Furthermore, it was created using refined recipes of Lao tam som, or tam mak hung,[31][32][33] likely brought to Bangkok by migrant workers from the Northeast during the mid-1900s.[34] During the standardization of the Thai national cuisine, green papaya salad was among the Northeastern or Lao dishes to be included into the Thai national cuisine and modified by reducing the amount of chilli peppers and increasing the amount of sugar.[35]

Others believe that som tam has evolved from a Thai dish called pu tam or tam pu (Thai: ปูตำ หรือ ตำปู, lit. 'Crab Salad') mentioned in a recipe by chef, Khunying Plian Phatsakarawong in her 1908 cookbook. This dish shares similarities with modern-day som tam but does not include papaya as an ingredient.[36][34] The earliest known recipe of som tam in Thailand appeared in the Yaowapha cookbook series by Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid in 1935, which included Som tam ton malako (Thai: ส้มตำต้นมะละกอ) or Khao man som tam (Thai: ข้าวมันส้มตำ). This recipe is similar to som tam as prepared today and includes roasted peanuts and dried shrimp as key ingredients. It is often served with rice cooked in coconut milk.[37][36][34][38]

Preparation

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Unripe papaya being sliced into thin strips during preparation of the salad.

The dish combines the five main basic tastes: the sourness of the lime, spiciness of the chili, saltiness and savoriness of the fish sauce, and sweetness of palm sugar.[disputed – discuss] The ingredients are mixed and pounded in a mortar, which is reflected in the Khmer, Lao and Thai names for the dish that literally mean "pounded papaya".

In Laos, green papaya salad is one of the traditional staples of the Lao. Pounded salads in Laos all fall under the parent category of tam som, which may or may not contain green papaya, however, when no specific type of tam som is mentioned, it is generally understood to refer to green papaya salad. For absolute clarity, however, the name tam maak hoong may be used, since this name means "pounded papaya".

In Thailand, it is customary that a customer ask the preparer to make the dish suited to his or her tastes. To specifically refer to the original style of papaya salad as prepared in Laos or Isan, it is known as ส้มตำลาว or som tam Lao or simply as tam Lao and the dish as prepared in central Thailand may be referred to as som tam Thai.

Traditionally, the local variety of green papaya salad in the streets of Bangkok is very spicy due to the addition of a fistful of chopped hot bird's eye chili. However, with its rising popularity among tourists, it is now often served less spicy as it used to be in the past.

Additional ingredients

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Street vendor from Isan pounding green papaya salad in Bangkok
 
Green papaya salad, grilled chicken and sticky rice is a popular combination in Laos and Thailand.

Together with the papaya, some or most of the following secondary items are added and pounded in the mortar with the pestle:

Green papaya salad is often served with glutinous rice and kai yang/ping gai (grilled chicken). It can also be eaten with fresh rice noodles or simply as a snack by itself with, for instance, crispy pork rinds. The dish is often accompanied by raw green vegetables such as water spinach and white cabbage wedges on the side to mitigate the spiciness of the dish.

Variations

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It is believed to have originated in Laos, from where it was exported into Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam.[40][3][4][better source needed] Variations of the dish are found throughout Thailand, Cambodia,[41] Vietnam and as well as in the West, where it is more commonly known by its Thai name.[citation needed]

A non-spicy green papaya salad version also exists in Laos, Vietnam and Thailand, which is much sweeter; it often contains crushed peanuts and is less likely to have fish paste or brined crab.[42] Dried brine shrimp are used in this Central Thai version. There are also versions that make use of unripe mangoes, apples, cucumbers, carrots and other firm vegetables or unripe fruit. Besides using varieties of fruits or vegetables as the main ingredient a popular option is to use vermicelli rice noodles wherein the dish is known as tam sua.[43]

Instead of papaya, other ingredients can be used as the main ingredient. Popular variations in Laos and Thailand include the salad with:[citation needed]

  • Cucumber, usually the small variety (tam maak taeng, tam taengkwa)
  • Green and unripe mango (tam maak muang, tam mamuang)
  • Green and unripe bananas (tam maak kuai, tam kluai)
  • Hard and unripe santol (tam krathon)
  • Banana flowers (tam hua pli)
  • Malay gooseberry (tam mayom)
  • Pomelo (tam som o)
  • Mu yo sausage (tam mu yo)
  • Mixed fruit (tam phonlamai ruam)
  • Coconut rice (khao man som tam)

Reception

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The Thai variation som tam has been listed at number 46 on World's 50 most delicious foods[44] compiled by CNN Go in 2011[45] and 2018.[46]

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  •  
    Lao papaya salad with pork rinds
  •  
    Luang Prabang style Lao papaya salad from Northern Laos
  •  
    Lao papaya salad with selected crustacea, mollusks, and shellfish in addition to papaya strips
  •  
    Thai green papaya salad with peanuts
  •  
    Green papaya salad with brined rice paddy crabs (som tam pu)
  •  
    Green papaya salad with mixed fruit (tam phonlamai ruam)
  •  
    Green papaya salad with banana flowers (tam hua pli)
  •  
    Green papaya salad with mu yo sausage (tam mu yo)
  •  
    A variation of the salad with green mango instead of papaya and dried anchovies (tam mamuang pla haeng thot)
  •  
    Tam maphrao on sen mi krop: a variation with soft coconut meat and deep-fried rice noodle

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "Laotian Food Is The International Cuisine You've Been Missing". Huffpost (published 6 December 2015). 5 February 2015. Archived from the original on 18 January 2023. Retrieved 18 January 2023.
  2. ^ "The Tao of Papaya/". Las Vegas Weekly. 5 January 2010. Archived from the original on 30 July 2017. Retrieved 28 February 2013.
  3. ^ a b Iverson, Kelly (9 May 2017). "A Brief History of Som Tum, Thailand's Popular Green Papaya Salad". Culture Trip. Archived from the original on 11 May 2021. Retrieved 26 May 2021.
  4. ^ a b "The Curious History of Som Tum (Papaya Salad)". Thai Ginger. 24 August 2020. Archived from the original on 7 May 2021. Retrieved 26 May 2021.
  5. ^ "10 National Dishes from Southeast Asia". Go Backpacking (published 22 October 2021). 24 October 2011. Archived from the original on 18 January 2023. Retrieved 18 January 2023.
  6. ^ Schulz, Daniela; Drescher, Stephanie (24 May 2017). "Papaya salad with shrimp, Laos". Deutsche Welle. Archived from the original on 4 May 2018. Retrieved 21 June 2021.
  7. ^ "Southeast Asian Cuisine: What to Eat in Southeast Asia and Where to Find It". tripsavvy. 26 June 2019. Retrieved 18 January 2023.
  8. ^ สุชาฎา ประพันธ์วงศ์ (7 March 2004). "ส้มตำไม่ใช่อาหารประจำชาติไทยจริงหรือไม่". oknation.net (in Thai). Retrieved 24 March 2024.
  9. ^ Ian (n.d.). "The Som Tum Thai Story". IamKohChang.com. Archived from the original on 8 April 2023. Retrieved 6 April 2023.
  10. ^ "Som Tam, the Ori-gins and Recipe/". theakyra.com. n.d. Archived from the original on 8 April 2023. Retrieved 6 April 2023.
  11. ^ Team Expique (15 September 2022). "The Ultimate Guide to Som Tum (Papaya Salad)". Expique. Archived from the original on 8 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  12. ^ "Som Tam Recipe (Thai Green Papaya Salad) from Chef David Thompson". Top Asian Chefs. 6 April 2023. Archived from the original on 6 April 2023. Retrieved 6 April 2023.
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  14. ^ Robert, Claudia Saw Lwin; Pe, Win; Hutton, Wendy (4 February 2014). The Food of Myanmar: Authentic Recipes from the Land of the Golden Pagodas. Tuttle Publishing. ISBN 978-1-4629-1368-8.
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  20. ^ a b Mouhot, Henri, and Ferdinand de. Lanoye. Voyage Dans Les Royaumes De Siam, De Cambodge, De Laos Et Autres Parties Centrales De L'Indo-Chine: Relation Extraite Du Journal Et De La Correspondance De L'auteur. Hachette, 1868. 322. Print
  21. ^ a b Estrade, Docteur (1895). Manuel de conversation, franco-laotiens: prononciation en français avec signes conventionnel, transcription de tous les termes en caractères laotiens., deuxieme edition. Dictionnaire et guide franco-laotien. pp. 25–26. hdl:2027/hvd.32044088603329.
  22. ^ Carné, Louis de; Carné, Louis-Joseph-Marie de (1872). Voyage En Indo-Chine Et Dans L'empire Chinois. Paris: E. Dentu. E. Dentu. pp. 86, 91. hdl:2027/hvd.32044055336309.
  23. ^ Massie, Victor-Alphonse (1894). Dictionnaire français-laotien: Mission Pavie, exploration de l' indochine (Latin characters).
  24. ^ a b Sasorith, Katay D (1958). Souvenirs d'un ancien écolier de Paksé. Editions Lao Sedone. p. 31.
  25. ^ Thalias, Nikki Sullivan (7 February 2022). "Influences portugaises sur la cuisine cambodgienne". Cambodgemag (in French). Retrieved 18 June 2022.
  26. ^ Poilane, Eugene (1965). "Les arbres fruitiers d'Indochine" (PDF). Journal d'agriculture traditionnelle et de botanique appliquée. 12 (6–8): 250.
  27. ^ Vidal, J.-E; Martel, Gabrielle; Lewitz, Saveros (1969). "Notes ethnobotaniques sur quelques plantes en usage au Cambodge" (PDF). Bulletin de l'École Française d'Extrême-Orient. 55 (1): 192. doi:10.3406/befeo.1969.4862.
  28. ^ "′มะละกอ′มีกำเนิดจากทวีปอเมริกา มาเป็น′ส้มตำ′ เริ่มมีในบางกอก - สุวรรณภูมิในอาเซียน" ['Papaya' - originated in the Americas, became 'som tam' in Bangkok]. Matichon (in Thai). 25 December 2014. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 29 July 2017.
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  31. ^ "Somtum Song (Lyrics)". Sirindhorn Anthropolo-gy Center (in Thai). n.d. Retrieved 16 August 2023.
  32. ^ "เปิดประวัติ ส้มตำ เมนูรสเด็ดที่ใคร ต่างก็ชื่นชอบ แถมยังสามารถทำทานเองได้ง่ายๆ". sou-dai (in Thai). 1 September 2020. Retrieved 16 August 2023.
  33. ^ "ตำบักหุ่งนัวคัก". finalproject (in Thai). n.d. Retrieved 16 August 2023.
  34. ^ a b c ธงชัย ลิขิตพรสวรรค์ (25 July 2020). "สืบที่มา "ส้มตำ" เข้ากรุงเทพฯ เมื่อไหร่-คนกรุงสมัยก่อนกินส้มตำที่ไหน". ศิลปวัฒนธรรม (in Thai). Archived from the original on 28 February 2023. Retrieved 28 February 2023.
  35. ^ Van Esterik, Penny (1992). "From Marco Polo to McDonald's: Thai cuisine in transition" (PDF). Food and Foodways: Explorations in the History and Culture of Human Nourishment. 5 (2): 177–193. Archived (PDF) from the original on 10 December 2021. Retrieved 10 December 2021.
  36. ^ a b แม่ครัวหัวป่าก์. 1908. p. 98.
  37. ^ Yaowaphapong Sanit HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn (1884–1934), ตำหรับสายเยาวภา: บอกวิธีปรุงอาหารคาวหวาน มีภาพประกอบ (in Thai), Thammasat University, p. 25, 116
  38. ^ คมกฤช อุ่ยเต็กเค่ง (1 February 2021), "ลอ-กอ-ยอก" ปักษ์ใต้ก็มีส้มตำที่ไม่ได้มาจากกรุงเทพฯ หรืออีสาน (in Thai), archived from the original on 28 February 2023, retrieved 28 February 2023
  39. ^ Ponchunchoovong, Samorn (2006). Species identification of Thai Rice-field Crab in the lower north-eastern region of Thailand Archived 9 August 2017 at the Wayback Machine.
  40. ^ Jonathan H. X. Lee; Kathleen Nadeau, eds. (2010). Encyclopedia of Asian American Folklore and Folklife. ABC-CLIO. p. 733. ISBN 978-0-313-35066-5. Some Laotians will argue that the papaya salad was invented in Laos and then exported to Cambodia, Thai, and Vietnam, where it was adopted.
  41. ^ Rivière, Joannès (2008). Cambodian Cooking: A humanitarian project in collaboration with Act for Cambodia. Periplus Editions. p. 29. ISBN 978-0-794-65039-1.
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  43. ^ "Green Papaya Salad Recipe: 6 Papaya Salad Variations". MasterClass. 1 August 2022. Archived from the original on 19 May 2023. Retrieved 19 May 2023.
  44. ^ "The world's 50 best foods". CNN Travel. 12 July 2017. Archived from the original on 27 July 2020. Retrieved 25 July 2020.
  45. ^ "World's 50 most delicious foods". CNN GO. 21 July 2011. Archived from the original on 21 July 2011. Retrieved 11 October 2011. 46. Som tam, Thailand
  46. ^ "The world's 50 best foods". CNN Travel. 14 March 2018. Archived from the original on 11 January 2019. Retrieved 9 March 2019.

Further reading

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  • Cummings, Joe. (2000). World Food: Thailand. UK: Lonely Planet Publishers. pp. 157–8. ISBN 1-86450-026-3
  • Williams, China ‘’et al.’’. (). ‘’Southeast Asia on a Shoestring: Big Trips on Small Budgets.’’ Lonely Planet. p. 31. ISBN 1-74104-164-3
  • Brissenden, Rosemary. (2007). Southeast Asian food: Classic and Modern Dishes from Indonesia, Malaysia, .. Tuttle Publishing. pp. 434 – 439. ISBN 0-7946-0488-9
  • McDermoot, Nancie. (1992). Real Thai: The Best of Thailand’s Regional Cooking. Chronicle Books. pp. 121 – 146. ISBN 0-8118-0017-2
 
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