Papers by Anna Rybarczyk
Fasciculi Archaeologiae Historicae, 33, 2020
A good fit of clothing to the body mainly depended on the perfect cut. Another way to fit clothes... more A good fit of clothing to the body mainly depended on the perfect cut. Another way to fit clothes to the body shape was to use lacing. In the Middle Ages, women’s gowns could be fitted with laced slits at the sides or in front of the dress. In men’s medieval attire, lacing mainly concerned the fastening of doublets and it was always placed at the front. Strings had one more special task – they supported a pair of hose tied to the doublet. In the course of time, the laces became more visible, gradually gaining a decorative function. An interesting collection of laces from archaeological excavations is stored in the Museum of Archaeology and History in Elbląg. The earliest lace is dated back to the 13th century, and another medieval find in this collection is a metal lace chape. Other artefacts are silk laces dated to the 16th, 17th and 17-18th centuries. The Elbląg collection documents the development of this part of clothing. It certainly constitutes an important part of a relatively small assemblage of surviving European fashion accessories of this type.
Fasciculi Archaeologiae Historicae, XXXI, 2018
High quality textiles were unquestionably one of the most luxurious goods in the Middle Ages. Exp... more High quality textiles were unquestionably one of the most luxurious goods in the Middle Ages. Expensive fabrics, especially silks are recognised as indicators of the owner's high social status. The excavations conducted in Elbląg (Elbing) gave rise to a very interesting collection of textiles. The fact that most of these finds came from parcels with well-known historical background offers a rare opportunity to relate the discovered textiles to their owners. It is also possible to link certain types of fabrics mentioned in written sources to actual archaeological finds. Combining archaeological and historical data enables us to shed some light on the question of using expensive textiles by townspeople in a late medieval Hanseatic town. A great correspondence of these sources as far as textile evidence is concerned can be observed: types of textiles listed in the sumptuary laws were successfully identified in the excavated evidence.
Rytm rozwoju miasta na kulturowym pograniczu. Studium strefy placu Nowy Targ we Wrocławiu, cz. 2, red. J. Piekalski, K. Wachowski, WRATISLAVIA ANTIQUA 23, 875-905, 2018
During archaeological excavations conducted on Nowy Targ Square in Wrocław, a large collection of... more During archaeological excavations conducted on Nowy Targ Square in Wrocław, a large collection of tex¬tiles was discovered. In total, 459 textile remains were found, sometimes preserved in a large number of frag¬ments.
The settlement layers of the Square were divided into nine phases, however, the finds of textiles come only from phases II to VII, and thus they are dated for the period from the turn of the 12th/13th centuries to the end of the 14th century. Most, i.e. as many as 360 artefacts, are dated to the 14th century. From the turn of the 12th/13th century only two strings are dated. The chronology of two silk and two wool textiles was not established.
In total, 386 woollen textiles were found. They were classified according to the typology developed by J. Maik, based on their weave, direction of the twist of warp and weft as well as the textile’s fulling or its ab¬sence. In this collection definitely type 4a and 4 textiles, i.e. the ones made in a 2/1 twill, both fulled and not fulled dominate.
The analysis showed that 84% of 13th-century tex¬tiles were woven in a 2/1 twill. In the collection from the 14th century, their share decreases to about 73%, and in exchange the share of products in plain weave increases. Analogies for this situation can be found in other Polish and European cities (e.g. in Opole, Gdańsk, Kołobrzeg, Schleswig and Lund).
The predominance of textiles in a 2/1 twill in the 13th century is explained by their origin from craft production, made using a treadle loom. Craft weaving in Wrocław and in general in Silesia took place at least since the 13th century. The increase in the popularity of the plain weave in the 14th century resulted from the need to simplify production methods and to make it cheaper and was associated with Western European influence in Central European cloth production.
The fact that the weavers reduced production costs is also demonstrated by the relatively poor, usually only one-sided fulling of about 78% of textiles in a 2/1 twill, and the fulled side is the one on which two weft threads correspond to one warp thread. The craft character of weaving production in Silesia is also evidenced by attempts to standardise it - amongst the textiles from Nowy Targ Square, three quality groups of fabrics can be seen: the thickest ones have a warp and weft density of up to 10-11 threads per 1 cm, the second group has a density of up to 15-16 threads per 1 cm, and the third one, the most delicate, about 20 threads per 1 cm.
The vast majority of wool textiles found during the excavations on Nowy Targ Square in Wrocław are of local origin, by which we mean they were produced in Wrocław itself or in general in Silesia. The imported products are less numerous - high class, very delicate, in tabby and 2/1 and 2/2 twill, from yarn in a ZZ twist. The yarn is very even, thin and equally thin and delicate are the fabrics - their warp and weft density is about 20 threads per 1 cm. The imports are also the most delicate textiles in 2/1 and 2/2 twill, in a ZS twist as well as the thin and the very well fulled textiles in a 2/2 twill. They probably come from Western Europe, most likely from England or Flanders.
The imports (probably from Italy) are also a few silk textiles. Only four such textiles were found, all made in a tabby.
Five decorative ribbons were made of silk. Four of them were made on tablets and one on a rigid heddle or box loom. Two of them stand out especially as they are made with the use of metal threads, probably gold-plat¬ed or silver-plated.
An exceptional artefact is a woollen-silk textile (No. 315) dated to the 14th century, in which - apart from the woollen warp - a woollen and silk weft was used. This product was made using a tabby and repp. As a result of the use of different coloured wool and silk threads as well as weave variation, a striped textile was created, in which the red background is in tabby and the repp strips have a golden (silk) or brown (wool) colour.
From the 14th century comes a semi-woollen tex¬tile, i.e. the one made of a linen warp and a woollen weft. Such a selection of raw materials was aimed at re¬ducing production costs, and at the same time the full¬ing of the textile resulted in its functional values being no poorer than of woollen fabrics.
Two textiles were made of horsehair, in a tabby. Both textiles are black, but one of them has a strip of rust-coloured fibres. Based on ethnographic analogies, one suspects that we are dealing with parts of sieves.
Two charred textiles dated to the 13th century were made from an unidentified plant raw material. Their relatively high density indicates that they are probably linen fabrics.
In addition, noteworthy is also a high-quality im¬ported cotton fabric woven in a tabby (second quarter of the 13th century).
An interesting find are two woollen bands with one edge provided with protrusions. Analogies from Gdańsk and London indicate that these are the remains of garters.
M. Bravermanová, H. Březinová, J. Malcolm-Davies (eds.) Archaeological Textiles – Links Between Past and Present NESAT XIII, 2017
Acta Militaria Mediaevalia, 2014
The article is about two leather axe cases from Elbląg. They were discovered in Trench XXX coveri... more The article is about two leather axe cases from Elbląg. They were discovered in Trench XXX covering the area of burgesses’
parcels situated at the Bread Market, on the south side of ul. Rzeźnicka and the north side of ul. Świętego Ducha. The cases were
found in latrines and come from layers dated to the 15th c. On the basis of the shape of the cases from Elbląg, it may be concluded
that they were made for axes with a broad, bearded blade. These artefacts are certainly unique finds, even on a European scale.
What is equally important is the fact that their state of preservation is perfect, which makes it possible to identify the production
techniques in detail.
FASCICULI ARCHAEOLOGIAE HISTORICAE FASC. XXIX, 2016, 11-16
As many as 258 textile fragments have been discovered within the area of the medieval town of Nys... more As many as 258 textile fragments have been discovered within the area of the medieval town of Nysa. In this group, woollen artefacts dominate. However, among the discovered fabrics, a group of 9 silk products can be distinguished. The most distinctive artefact within this group is the textile produced in the combination of gauze weave and satin weave. The remaining part of the group was crafted in plain weave, which is the dominant weave in medieval silk textiles acquired in archaeological excavations. The explanation for this fact is that within the extensive range of luxury silk textiles, those produced in plain weave were the cheapest ones.
XIX Sesja Pomorzoznawcza. Szczecin, 21-22 listopada 2013 r., Acta Archaeologica Pomoranica, t. V, Szczecin 2015, 435-444
Book Reviews by Anna Rybarczyk
Conference Presentations by Anna Rybarczyk
appendix by Anna Rybarczyk
P. Szymański, Chronologia gołdapskiej grupy kulturowej w okresie wędrówek ludów/Die Chronologie der Goldaper Kulturgruppe in der Völkerwanderungszeit, ŚWIATOWIT Supplement Series P: Prehistory and Middle Ages, vol. XX , 2018, 235-244
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Papers by Anna Rybarczyk
The settlement layers of the Square were divided into nine phases, however, the finds of textiles come only from phases II to VII, and thus they are dated for the period from the turn of the 12th/13th centuries to the end of the 14th century. Most, i.e. as many as 360 artefacts, are dated to the 14th century. From the turn of the 12th/13th century only two strings are dated. The chronology of two silk and two wool textiles was not established.
In total, 386 woollen textiles were found. They were classified according to the typology developed by J. Maik, based on their weave, direction of the twist of warp and weft as well as the textile’s fulling or its ab¬sence. In this collection definitely type 4a and 4 textiles, i.e. the ones made in a 2/1 twill, both fulled and not fulled dominate.
The analysis showed that 84% of 13th-century tex¬tiles were woven in a 2/1 twill. In the collection from the 14th century, their share decreases to about 73%, and in exchange the share of products in plain weave increases. Analogies for this situation can be found in other Polish and European cities (e.g. in Opole, Gdańsk, Kołobrzeg, Schleswig and Lund).
The predominance of textiles in a 2/1 twill in the 13th century is explained by their origin from craft production, made using a treadle loom. Craft weaving in Wrocław and in general in Silesia took place at least since the 13th century. The increase in the popularity of the plain weave in the 14th century resulted from the need to simplify production methods and to make it cheaper and was associated with Western European influence in Central European cloth production.
The fact that the weavers reduced production costs is also demonstrated by the relatively poor, usually only one-sided fulling of about 78% of textiles in a 2/1 twill, and the fulled side is the one on which two weft threads correspond to one warp thread. The craft character of weaving production in Silesia is also evidenced by attempts to standardise it - amongst the textiles from Nowy Targ Square, three quality groups of fabrics can be seen: the thickest ones have a warp and weft density of up to 10-11 threads per 1 cm, the second group has a density of up to 15-16 threads per 1 cm, and the third one, the most delicate, about 20 threads per 1 cm.
The vast majority of wool textiles found during the excavations on Nowy Targ Square in Wrocław are of local origin, by which we mean they were produced in Wrocław itself or in general in Silesia. The imported products are less numerous - high class, very delicate, in tabby and 2/1 and 2/2 twill, from yarn in a ZZ twist. The yarn is very even, thin and equally thin and delicate are the fabrics - their warp and weft density is about 20 threads per 1 cm. The imports are also the most delicate textiles in 2/1 and 2/2 twill, in a ZS twist as well as the thin and the very well fulled textiles in a 2/2 twill. They probably come from Western Europe, most likely from England or Flanders.
The imports (probably from Italy) are also a few silk textiles. Only four such textiles were found, all made in a tabby.
Five decorative ribbons were made of silk. Four of them were made on tablets and one on a rigid heddle or box loom. Two of them stand out especially as they are made with the use of metal threads, probably gold-plat¬ed or silver-plated.
An exceptional artefact is a woollen-silk textile (No. 315) dated to the 14th century, in which - apart from the woollen warp - a woollen and silk weft was used. This product was made using a tabby and repp. As a result of the use of different coloured wool and silk threads as well as weave variation, a striped textile was created, in which the red background is in tabby and the repp strips have a golden (silk) or brown (wool) colour.
From the 14th century comes a semi-woollen tex¬tile, i.e. the one made of a linen warp and a woollen weft. Such a selection of raw materials was aimed at re¬ducing production costs, and at the same time the full¬ing of the textile resulted in its functional values being no poorer than of woollen fabrics.
Two textiles were made of horsehair, in a tabby. Both textiles are black, but one of them has a strip of rust-coloured fibres. Based on ethnographic analogies, one suspects that we are dealing with parts of sieves.
Two charred textiles dated to the 13th century were made from an unidentified plant raw material. Their relatively high density indicates that they are probably linen fabrics.
In addition, noteworthy is also a high-quality im¬ported cotton fabric woven in a tabby (second quarter of the 13th century).
An interesting find are two woollen bands with one edge provided with protrusions. Analogies from Gdańsk and London indicate that these are the remains of garters.
parcels situated at the Bread Market, on the south side of ul. Rzeźnicka and the north side of ul. Świętego Ducha. The cases were
found in latrines and come from layers dated to the 15th c. On the basis of the shape of the cases from Elbląg, it may be concluded
that they were made for axes with a broad, bearded blade. These artefacts are certainly unique finds, even on a European scale.
What is equally important is the fact that their state of preservation is perfect, which makes it possible to identify the production
techniques in detail.
Book Reviews by Anna Rybarczyk
Conference Presentations by Anna Rybarczyk
appendix by Anna Rybarczyk
The settlement layers of the Square were divided into nine phases, however, the finds of textiles come only from phases II to VII, and thus they are dated for the period from the turn of the 12th/13th centuries to the end of the 14th century. Most, i.e. as many as 360 artefacts, are dated to the 14th century. From the turn of the 12th/13th century only two strings are dated. The chronology of two silk and two wool textiles was not established.
In total, 386 woollen textiles were found. They were classified according to the typology developed by J. Maik, based on their weave, direction of the twist of warp and weft as well as the textile’s fulling or its ab¬sence. In this collection definitely type 4a and 4 textiles, i.e. the ones made in a 2/1 twill, both fulled and not fulled dominate.
The analysis showed that 84% of 13th-century tex¬tiles were woven in a 2/1 twill. In the collection from the 14th century, their share decreases to about 73%, and in exchange the share of products in plain weave increases. Analogies for this situation can be found in other Polish and European cities (e.g. in Opole, Gdańsk, Kołobrzeg, Schleswig and Lund).
The predominance of textiles in a 2/1 twill in the 13th century is explained by their origin from craft production, made using a treadle loom. Craft weaving in Wrocław and in general in Silesia took place at least since the 13th century. The increase in the popularity of the plain weave in the 14th century resulted from the need to simplify production methods and to make it cheaper and was associated with Western European influence in Central European cloth production.
The fact that the weavers reduced production costs is also demonstrated by the relatively poor, usually only one-sided fulling of about 78% of textiles in a 2/1 twill, and the fulled side is the one on which two weft threads correspond to one warp thread. The craft character of weaving production in Silesia is also evidenced by attempts to standardise it - amongst the textiles from Nowy Targ Square, three quality groups of fabrics can be seen: the thickest ones have a warp and weft density of up to 10-11 threads per 1 cm, the second group has a density of up to 15-16 threads per 1 cm, and the third one, the most delicate, about 20 threads per 1 cm.
The vast majority of wool textiles found during the excavations on Nowy Targ Square in Wrocław are of local origin, by which we mean they were produced in Wrocław itself or in general in Silesia. The imported products are less numerous - high class, very delicate, in tabby and 2/1 and 2/2 twill, from yarn in a ZZ twist. The yarn is very even, thin and equally thin and delicate are the fabrics - their warp and weft density is about 20 threads per 1 cm. The imports are also the most delicate textiles in 2/1 and 2/2 twill, in a ZS twist as well as the thin and the very well fulled textiles in a 2/2 twill. They probably come from Western Europe, most likely from England or Flanders.
The imports (probably from Italy) are also a few silk textiles. Only four such textiles were found, all made in a tabby.
Five decorative ribbons were made of silk. Four of them were made on tablets and one on a rigid heddle or box loom. Two of them stand out especially as they are made with the use of metal threads, probably gold-plat¬ed or silver-plated.
An exceptional artefact is a woollen-silk textile (No. 315) dated to the 14th century, in which - apart from the woollen warp - a woollen and silk weft was used. This product was made using a tabby and repp. As a result of the use of different coloured wool and silk threads as well as weave variation, a striped textile was created, in which the red background is in tabby and the repp strips have a golden (silk) or brown (wool) colour.
From the 14th century comes a semi-woollen tex¬tile, i.e. the one made of a linen warp and a woollen weft. Such a selection of raw materials was aimed at re¬ducing production costs, and at the same time the full¬ing of the textile resulted in its functional values being no poorer than of woollen fabrics.
Two textiles were made of horsehair, in a tabby. Both textiles are black, but one of them has a strip of rust-coloured fibres. Based on ethnographic analogies, one suspects that we are dealing with parts of sieves.
Two charred textiles dated to the 13th century were made from an unidentified plant raw material. Their relatively high density indicates that they are probably linen fabrics.
In addition, noteworthy is also a high-quality im¬ported cotton fabric woven in a tabby (second quarter of the 13th century).
An interesting find are two woollen bands with one edge provided with protrusions. Analogies from Gdańsk and London indicate that these are the remains of garters.
parcels situated at the Bread Market, on the south side of ul. Rzeźnicka and the north side of ul. Świętego Ducha. The cases were
found in latrines and come from layers dated to the 15th c. On the basis of the shape of the cases from Elbląg, it may be concluded
that they were made for axes with a broad, bearded blade. These artefacts are certainly unique finds, even on a European scale.
What is equally important is the fact that their state of preservation is perfect, which makes it possible to identify the production
techniques in detail.