Практики анализа качественных данных в социальных науках, 2023
Подходы к анализу дискурса. Дискурс-анализ как теория и метод. Предпосылки постструктуралистской ... more Подходы к анализу дискурса. Дискурс-анализ как теория и метод. Предпосылки постструктуралистской теории дискурса. Введение в метод. Возможные процедуры анализа дискурса с применением идей Лакло и Муфф. Практика дискурс-анализа конфликта.
В статье пойдет речь про труд русскоязычных моделей, которые, с одной стороны, занимаются «модели... more В статье пойдет речь про труд русскоязычных моделей, которые, с одной стороны, занимаются «моделингом»-работают на рынке, где тело модели является товаром, который модельные агентства предлагают компаниям, использующим моделей для продвижения своих товаров и услуг (Mears & Finlay 2005; Mears 2010). В то же время модели являются «блогерками» - создателями и ведущими каналов в сети YouTube, на которых они рассказывают о моделинге и строят свой «личный бренд»-образ, который отражает, во-первых, их идентичность в профессиональном сообществе и, во-вторых, культурные нарративы, связанные с моделингом (Titton 2015). Помимо YouTube, модели также имеют профили в других социальных сетях-Instagram, TikTok и в последнее время-в Telegram. Речь пойдет об особенностях труда моделей-блогерок, который, c одной стороны, является цифровым, а с другой-физическим и эмоциональным. Вопросы, на которые отвечает статья, заключаются в том, как цифровизация повлияла на труд моделей и какие нарративы о благополучии моделей-блогерок обсуждаются в блогах.
During the latter part of the 2010s, many fashion brands-e.g., Gucci, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, ... more During the latter part of the 2010s, many fashion brands-e.g., Gucci, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Dior-have been caught up with scandals and called out for racism, cultural appropriation and other types of insensitivity towards vulnerable groups. This article will unpack, through critical analysis of some of these examples, the changing landscape of the 'fashion scandal' in the late-2010s and their impact on fashion and on society. We understand fashion scandals as the fuel of fashion. They are debated in the social media and they are controversial actions, statements or events that cause strong emotional responses and debate. Even though scandal has been proven effective in fashion marketing for decades, and despite it is still frequently used, there might be a change on the way. Our examples suggest that with the rise of social media and its so-called 'citizen journalism' the tactics of creating scandals may have lost their lustre and can easily turn against the brand. We will also discuss new tactics that brands have adopted to escape undesired scandals by establishing new roles such as the 'diversity consultant'.
Финляндия, одно из проводящих политику всеобщего благосостояния скандинавских государств, в после... more Финляндия, одно из проводящих политику всеобщего благосостояния скандинавских государств, в последнее время активно заявляет о себе на арене мировой моды. Если говорить о мировом признании, молодые поколения финских модельеров пользуются международным успехом и побеждают на международных конкурсах, таких как Йерский международный фестиваль моды и фотографии и конкурс молодых дизайнеров LVMH Prize. Некоторые новые финские бренды, в том числе Samuji и Makia Clothing, расширились, выйдя за пределы Скандинавии на мировой рынок. В то же время, если говорить о локальных инициативах, возникли амбициозные проекты, нацеленные на продвижение финской моды за рубежом, такие как Pre-Helsinki и Helsinki-New, с недавнего времени объединенные в рамках совместного проекта Fashion-In-Helsinki. Несмотря на недавний успех профессиональных финских дизайнеров, Финляндию и ее модную индустрию по-прежнему называют «многообещающей». Цель этой статьи — показать, как мода в Финляндии, особенно в Хельсинки, развивалась, пытаясь совмещать поддержание приобретенной профессиональной репутации со всесторонним коммерческим развитием новых и укреплением существующих местных и глобальных сетей.
This is a qualitative study of consumers aged 50+ and their daily practices connected to wearable... more This is a qualitative study of consumers aged 50+ and their daily practices connected to wearable devices (smartwatches and fitness trackers). Drawing on the practice theory, we seek to uncover how participation in such practices might enhance users' wellbeing as an integral part of social sustainability. We assume that both ageing and wellbeing are not pre-given but they rather co-evolve when users of wearables engage in situated practices. Hence, wearables such as smartwatches and fitness trackers might positively reconfigure the existing practices of consumers over 50, or even recruit them into new ones, resulting in higher wellbeing and social sustainability. The phenomenon is examined in Russia and Finland, as ageing has been high on the agenda in these countries due to controversial pension and social welfare reforms. Though these countries are different in terms of possibilities (access to medical help, employment, social participation, etc.) for their ageing populations, an active ageing framework with an emphasis on individual responsibility over one's wellbeing has been gaining popularity in both Russia and Finland. This framework is compatible with the use of wearable devices that measure physical activity and basic health characteristics. Based on data elicited through 17 semi-structured interviews with Russians and Finns aged between 50 and 73 y.o., this study suggests that engagement in practices with wearables might have a positive effect on consumers' wellbeing. This is achieved, for instance, by helping manage one's daily tasks,
Wearable technologies involve the integration of technology into clothing or accessories 15 to br... more Wearable technologies involve the integration of technology into clothing or accessories 15 to bring new functionalities for people on the move. Many examples of wearables are emerging, 16 from simple fitness tracking watches to electronics deeply embedded into garments for multi-touch 17 sensing and control for personal music players. Without careful development, wearables can have 18 a negative impact on the environment due to increased production of electronic components, 19 increased e-waste from abandoned devices, and increased energy usage. We examine 20 environmental sustainability issues through a review of recent research and cases across three broad 21 areas including the fashion industry, information and communications technology (ICT), and 22 wearable technologies. In the analysis, we examine stages in the product lifecycle and identify the 23 unique issues for each sector including the extraction of materials, production process, distribution 24 of products, use, and disposal of products that have reached the end of their life. The findings are 25 gathered as implications for design so that researchers, educators, designers, developers, and 26 product managers will gain an overview of the issues related to environmental sustainability. 27 Related examples of products and prototypes are provided to enable informed choices during the 28 design and development of wearables that are more environmentally sustainable. 29
The Palgrave Handbook of Digital Russia Studies, 2020
This article offers an overview of the main aspects of digital consumption in Russia with an emph... more This article offers an overview of the main aspects of digital consumption in Russia with an emphasis on the late 2010s. It also sheds light on the tendencies that digitalization of the sphere of consumption has brought to Russian retail and consumers. In particular, we look at how digitalization has changed retail trade; what kind of digital retail platforms gained popularity in Russia; how Russian retailers utilize data related to consumption; how cross-border internet trade has been developing and how it has been regulated; and what the profile is of the typical online consumer. We also look at platforms and practices of online exchange and the sharing economy. The article is based on the analysis of scholarly literature on digital consumption, marketing research data and media publications to identify the current trends in consumption. It addresses 1 In alphabetical order, contribution of both authors is equal. 2 the question of what challenges and opportunities digitalization of consumption has brought about for Russia.
Recently, fashion has become a target for political considerations and ‘strategic governmentaliza... more Recently, fashion has become a target for political considerations and ‘strategic governmentalization’ in such countries as Denmark, Australia and New Zealand, among others. The Finnish government has also paid attention to fashion. This research uses the concept of ‘governmentality’ as a form of power with the purpose to understand how fashion is governed in a contemporary western society. Taking Finland as a site of fieldwork, this research shows how various governmental and non-governmental actors, aligned in fluid networks, produce policy for fashion, what rationalities lay behind their actions and what kind of dilemmas they have to address.
This article explores the multiplicity of discoursive articulations of patriotism in Russia in th... more This article explores the multiplicity of discoursive articulations of patriotism in Russia in the context of "patriotic frenzy" observed in the country and reached in fashion. Patriotism is considered a socially constructed, multi-layered category defined in relation to nationalism and cosmopolitanism. To explore the interpretations of patriotism, this research uses the concept of governmentality of Michel Foucault and proposes the concept of "patriotic dispositif", which conducts the creative conduct of fashion designers by encouraging them to follow patriotic fashion. At the same time, fashion designers can either support it or have freedom for counter-conduct, which is manifested in cosmopolitan, cultural and economic patriotic discourses. The article is based on nineteen in-depth interviews and secondary data analyzed with the use of post-structuralist discourse theory.
Purpose: This chapter explores how Russian fashion designers, as cultural intermediaries operatin... more Purpose: This chapter explores how Russian fashion designers, as cultural intermediaries operating in the marketplace, interpret patriotism, which has become a noticeable phenomenon in Russia. Methodology/Approach: Patriotism is approached as an appeal to patria and is considered as a socially constructed category. To explore the construction of patriotism, this research uses Michel Foucault’s concept of governmentality. In the market, the state, commercial companies, media, and consumers co-produce the dispositif of patriotism, which conducts the creative conduct of fashion designers and encourages them to follow patriotic fashion. At the same time, fashion designers have freedom to conduct themselves and act in different ways. Findings: Interpretations of patriotism within a patriotic dispositif are explored vis-à-vis the interpretations of patriotism articulated by fashion designers. In addition to patriotic fashion, the forms of their creative conduct or counter-conduct are manifested in such subtypes of patriotism in fashion as cosmopolitan patriotism, economic patriotism, cultural patriotism, and fashion localism.
The case of Pre-Helsinki, a designers-driven platform aiming at internationalizing Finnish fashio... more The case of Pre-Helsinki, a designers-driven platform aiming at internationalizing Finnish fashion talents, illustrates how fashion designers through this platform mobilize local actors for reshaping Finnish fashion further to increase its visibility at the international level. For this inquiry, the article develops the concept of place-making, which summarizes the collective efforts of fashion designers and other local actors in the internationalization of Finnish fashion. Place-making comprises three themes, including the dynamic and consolidated interplay among the local actors, economic and symbolic contributions of the actors to the local development, and its implementation at multiple scales from neighborhood to city and nation. The data for analysis are retrieved from semi-structured interviews with actors around the case and ethnographic observations. The research shows how Pre-Helsinki was appeared as a reaction to local and global level disconnections of Finnish fashion, and how these disconnections were addressed in its activities. The background, origin of the platform, its activities and main actors are discussed in the context of how the platform implements place-making and contributes to building a meaning of Helsinki and Finland as places of fashion. In conclusion, the case is explored in the broader development of Finnish fashion ecosystem.
This article explores the careers of young fashion designers as entrepreneurs in Russia. It discu... more This article explores the careers of young fashion designers as entrepreneurs in Russia. It discusses entrepreneurial experiences and labour practices of fashion designers in the context of precarity: that is, the structural conditions characterized by a lack of social, economic and emotional security caused by a shift of responsibilities for the labour market from the state to the citizens.The article takes the perspective of designers’ agency and answers the question of how young fashion entrepreneurs deal with such structural conditions using state support, community support, organizational practices and emotional management. The article also focuses on creative labour in the broader context of the circumstances of a creative class in an authoritarian state. We argue that in today’s Russia, the discourse on the creative class is perhaps more important than the discourse on precarity, since belonging to the creative class is a source of political identity for fashion designers. The issue of precarity, then, can become a further basis for solidarity and political action. The research draws from 21 in-depth interviews with fashion designers and experts conducted in the cities of Moscow, St. Petersburg and Novosibirsk between 2015 and 2016.
В данной статье рассматривается, каким образом фильм может быть использован в качестве тактики сб... more В данной статье рассматривается, каким образом фильм может быть использован в качестве тактики сбора данных и формы презентации результатов социологическо-го исследования, нацеленного на изучение социальной группы представителей мало-го бизнеса креативного направления (дизайнеров одежды). Под «исследовательским фильмом» понимается фильм, построенный на принципах научного (социологического) исследования и подразумевающий участвующее наблюдение с видеофиксацией проис-ходящего и последующим монтажом и анализом материалов. На примере опыта рабо-ты над исследовательским фильмом " Take it slow! Sustainable fashion for local community in Kallio, Helsinki " поэтапно анализируются процедуры работы над фильмом, включая подготовку, съемки и монтаж. Особое внимание уделяется процессу монтажа: на кон-кретных примерах показывается, каким образом при помощи сочетаний закадрового комментария, картинки и музыки выстраивается аргументация участников. Авторы об-суждают трудности, с которыми они столкнулись во время работы над исследователь-ским фильмом, в том числе вторжение в личное пространство интервьюируемых, во-прос анонимности и поиск площадок для показа фильма. Авторы демонстрируют, какие дополнительные возможности дает тактика исследовательского фильма для изучения социально-профессиональных групп.
This paper discusses the diverse roles fashion designers play in the contemporary fashion industr... more This paper discusses the diverse roles fashion designers play in the contemporary fashion industry. Taking Finland as a case, it particularly investigates how fashion designers are involved in regional identity formation. By conceptualizing the place-making ability of fashion designers, it adds a new perspective on the expanded roles of fashion designers recognized in design research. This is done through exploration of Pre Helsinki, a platform launched in 2013 seeking to internationalize Finnish fashion. This platform, created and operated mostly by fashion designers, serves as a vivid example of the different roles that designers can play. The study is based on qualitative methods, namely, semi-structured interviews and ethnographic observation. Five characteristics of Pre Helsinki and five fashion designers’ corresponding roles were identified, based on thematic analysis of the data. This paper concludes with suggestions for further investigation on fashion designers to establish a dialogue between fashion and design research.
In this introductory essay the guest editors provide a critical account of the concepts of patrio... more In this introductory essay the guest editors provide a critical account of the concepts of patriotism and consumption. Whilst nationalist sentiments are on the rise in many countries in the world, there has been little research on citizen participation outside the conventional politics of the nation-state. There is even less scholarship on consumption and patriotism and digital media; and finally, there has been little work emerging in relation to the countries of the region. Therefore, the authors explain how this special issue of Studies in Russian, Eurasian and Central European New Media aims to fill in these gaps. They also present their own framework for thinking about patriotic (non)consumption. They argue that patriotism thrives in human agency, especially emotions, and can play a central role in mobilization processes and identity construction. It produces attachments located in the fantasies of the societal cohesion, unity and a sense of belonging.
After the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991 and transition from a state-planned to market-d... more After the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991 and transition from a state-planned to market-driven economy, the sphere of consumption in Russia has drastically changed. Among the changes are the proliferation of global media and advertising, transnational corporations, brands and commodities. Russia also became better integrated in the global economy and culture. Therefore, the question is raised: how did these changes affect consumption in Russia at a structural level and in everyday life? How did the Soviet legacy inform consumption in postsocialist Russia? This chapter addresses these questions through exploration of scholarship on consumer culture in Russia from the beginning of the 1990s to 2015. The chapter contributes to discussion on postsocialist consumerism, global consumer culture and the effects of global capitalism on former non-market economies.
В статье представлен обзор концепций моды в современной социологии, в которых фокусом является пр... more В статье представлен обзор концепций моды в современной социологии, в которых фокусом является производство моды. Рассмотрены концепции поля производства моды Пьера Бурдье, индустрии моды Анджелы МакРобби, рынка моды Патрика Асперса, институциональная концепция моды Юнийи Кавамуры и концепция эстетических рынков Джоан Энтвистл. Обсуждаются парадигмальная принадлежность концепций, ключевые категории, которые в них используются, и ключевые идеи. Обзор позволяет получить ответ на вопрос о том, какие социологические задачи позволяют решать данные концепции.
The " eastern tourist, " as a reference category to the visitors from Russia, has been a recurrin... more The " eastern tourist, " as a reference category to the visitors from Russia, has been a recurring feature in Finnish newspapers. Focusing on the leading Finnish national daily newspaper, Helsingin Sanomat, this article explores how representations of Russian tourists as consumers have been changing in the Finnish mass media since the beginning of the 1990s until 2014. The article considers tourists as a discursive category thereby introducing a discourse analysis approach to tourism studies. Three periods are differentiated: Firstly, during the 1990s, when visitors from Russia were represented as " shuttle traders " bringing problems and disturbing social order in Finland. Secondly, from the end of the 1990s until 2014, when the newspaper discourse emphasized the economic gains from the Russian tourists and investigates peculiarities and ambiguities of their taste. At the time, Russian visitors were represented as middle class tourists. Thirdly, around the year 2014, when the Russians were portrayed as the middle class with declining purchasing power and limited ability to travel which brought loses in Finland. The analysis allowed us to observe how images of Russian tourists changed in the context of the evolving consumer culture in Russia and the neoliberal shift in the Finnish mass media discourse.
Практики анализа качественных данных в социальных науках, 2023
Подходы к анализу дискурса. Дискурс-анализ как теория и метод. Предпосылки постструктуралистской ... more Подходы к анализу дискурса. Дискурс-анализ как теория и метод. Предпосылки постструктуралистской теории дискурса. Введение в метод. Возможные процедуры анализа дискурса с применением идей Лакло и Муфф. Практика дискурс-анализа конфликта.
В статье пойдет речь про труд русскоязычных моделей, которые, с одной стороны, занимаются «модели... more В статье пойдет речь про труд русскоязычных моделей, которые, с одной стороны, занимаются «моделингом»-работают на рынке, где тело модели является товаром, который модельные агентства предлагают компаниям, использующим моделей для продвижения своих товаров и услуг (Mears & Finlay 2005; Mears 2010). В то же время модели являются «блогерками» - создателями и ведущими каналов в сети YouTube, на которых они рассказывают о моделинге и строят свой «личный бренд»-образ, который отражает, во-первых, их идентичность в профессиональном сообществе и, во-вторых, культурные нарративы, связанные с моделингом (Titton 2015). Помимо YouTube, модели также имеют профили в других социальных сетях-Instagram, TikTok и в последнее время-в Telegram. Речь пойдет об особенностях труда моделей-блогерок, который, c одной стороны, является цифровым, а с другой-физическим и эмоциональным. Вопросы, на которые отвечает статья, заключаются в том, как цифровизация повлияла на труд моделей и какие нарративы о благополучии моделей-блогерок обсуждаются в блогах.
During the latter part of the 2010s, many fashion brands-e.g., Gucci, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, ... more During the latter part of the 2010s, many fashion brands-e.g., Gucci, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Dior-have been caught up with scandals and called out for racism, cultural appropriation and other types of insensitivity towards vulnerable groups. This article will unpack, through critical analysis of some of these examples, the changing landscape of the 'fashion scandal' in the late-2010s and their impact on fashion and on society. We understand fashion scandals as the fuel of fashion. They are debated in the social media and they are controversial actions, statements or events that cause strong emotional responses and debate. Even though scandal has been proven effective in fashion marketing for decades, and despite it is still frequently used, there might be a change on the way. Our examples suggest that with the rise of social media and its so-called 'citizen journalism' the tactics of creating scandals may have lost their lustre and can easily turn against the brand. We will also discuss new tactics that brands have adopted to escape undesired scandals by establishing new roles such as the 'diversity consultant'.
Финляндия, одно из проводящих политику всеобщего благосостояния скандинавских государств, в после... more Финляндия, одно из проводящих политику всеобщего благосостояния скандинавских государств, в последнее время активно заявляет о себе на арене мировой моды. Если говорить о мировом признании, молодые поколения финских модельеров пользуются международным успехом и побеждают на международных конкурсах, таких как Йерский международный фестиваль моды и фотографии и конкурс молодых дизайнеров LVMH Prize. Некоторые новые финские бренды, в том числе Samuji и Makia Clothing, расширились, выйдя за пределы Скандинавии на мировой рынок. В то же время, если говорить о локальных инициативах, возникли амбициозные проекты, нацеленные на продвижение финской моды за рубежом, такие как Pre-Helsinki и Helsinki-New, с недавнего времени объединенные в рамках совместного проекта Fashion-In-Helsinki. Несмотря на недавний успех профессиональных финских дизайнеров, Финляндию и ее модную индустрию по-прежнему называют «многообещающей». Цель этой статьи — показать, как мода в Финляндии, особенно в Хельсинки, развивалась, пытаясь совмещать поддержание приобретенной профессиональной репутации со всесторонним коммерческим развитием новых и укреплением существующих местных и глобальных сетей.
This is a qualitative study of consumers aged 50+ and their daily practices connected to wearable... more This is a qualitative study of consumers aged 50+ and their daily practices connected to wearable devices (smartwatches and fitness trackers). Drawing on the practice theory, we seek to uncover how participation in such practices might enhance users' wellbeing as an integral part of social sustainability. We assume that both ageing and wellbeing are not pre-given but they rather co-evolve when users of wearables engage in situated practices. Hence, wearables such as smartwatches and fitness trackers might positively reconfigure the existing practices of consumers over 50, or even recruit them into new ones, resulting in higher wellbeing and social sustainability. The phenomenon is examined in Russia and Finland, as ageing has been high on the agenda in these countries due to controversial pension and social welfare reforms. Though these countries are different in terms of possibilities (access to medical help, employment, social participation, etc.) for their ageing populations, an active ageing framework with an emphasis on individual responsibility over one's wellbeing has been gaining popularity in both Russia and Finland. This framework is compatible with the use of wearable devices that measure physical activity and basic health characteristics. Based on data elicited through 17 semi-structured interviews with Russians and Finns aged between 50 and 73 y.o., this study suggests that engagement in practices with wearables might have a positive effect on consumers' wellbeing. This is achieved, for instance, by helping manage one's daily tasks,
Wearable technologies involve the integration of technology into clothing or accessories 15 to br... more Wearable technologies involve the integration of technology into clothing or accessories 15 to bring new functionalities for people on the move. Many examples of wearables are emerging, 16 from simple fitness tracking watches to electronics deeply embedded into garments for multi-touch 17 sensing and control for personal music players. Without careful development, wearables can have 18 a negative impact on the environment due to increased production of electronic components, 19 increased e-waste from abandoned devices, and increased energy usage. We examine 20 environmental sustainability issues through a review of recent research and cases across three broad 21 areas including the fashion industry, information and communications technology (ICT), and 22 wearable technologies. In the analysis, we examine stages in the product lifecycle and identify the 23 unique issues for each sector including the extraction of materials, production process, distribution 24 of products, use, and disposal of products that have reached the end of their life. The findings are 25 gathered as implications for design so that researchers, educators, designers, developers, and 26 product managers will gain an overview of the issues related to environmental sustainability. 27 Related examples of products and prototypes are provided to enable informed choices during the 28 design and development of wearables that are more environmentally sustainable. 29
The Palgrave Handbook of Digital Russia Studies, 2020
This article offers an overview of the main aspects of digital consumption in Russia with an emph... more This article offers an overview of the main aspects of digital consumption in Russia with an emphasis on the late 2010s. It also sheds light on the tendencies that digitalization of the sphere of consumption has brought to Russian retail and consumers. In particular, we look at how digitalization has changed retail trade; what kind of digital retail platforms gained popularity in Russia; how Russian retailers utilize data related to consumption; how cross-border internet trade has been developing and how it has been regulated; and what the profile is of the typical online consumer. We also look at platforms and practices of online exchange and the sharing economy. The article is based on the analysis of scholarly literature on digital consumption, marketing research data and media publications to identify the current trends in consumption. It addresses 1 In alphabetical order, contribution of both authors is equal. 2 the question of what challenges and opportunities digitalization of consumption has brought about for Russia.
Recently, fashion has become a target for political considerations and ‘strategic governmentaliza... more Recently, fashion has become a target for political considerations and ‘strategic governmentalization’ in such countries as Denmark, Australia and New Zealand, among others. The Finnish government has also paid attention to fashion. This research uses the concept of ‘governmentality’ as a form of power with the purpose to understand how fashion is governed in a contemporary western society. Taking Finland as a site of fieldwork, this research shows how various governmental and non-governmental actors, aligned in fluid networks, produce policy for fashion, what rationalities lay behind their actions and what kind of dilemmas they have to address.
This article explores the multiplicity of discoursive articulations of patriotism in Russia in th... more This article explores the multiplicity of discoursive articulations of patriotism in Russia in the context of "patriotic frenzy" observed in the country and reached in fashion. Patriotism is considered a socially constructed, multi-layered category defined in relation to nationalism and cosmopolitanism. To explore the interpretations of patriotism, this research uses the concept of governmentality of Michel Foucault and proposes the concept of "patriotic dispositif", which conducts the creative conduct of fashion designers by encouraging them to follow patriotic fashion. At the same time, fashion designers can either support it or have freedom for counter-conduct, which is manifested in cosmopolitan, cultural and economic patriotic discourses. The article is based on nineteen in-depth interviews and secondary data analyzed with the use of post-structuralist discourse theory.
Purpose: This chapter explores how Russian fashion designers, as cultural intermediaries operatin... more Purpose: This chapter explores how Russian fashion designers, as cultural intermediaries operating in the marketplace, interpret patriotism, which has become a noticeable phenomenon in Russia. Methodology/Approach: Patriotism is approached as an appeal to patria and is considered as a socially constructed category. To explore the construction of patriotism, this research uses Michel Foucault’s concept of governmentality. In the market, the state, commercial companies, media, and consumers co-produce the dispositif of patriotism, which conducts the creative conduct of fashion designers and encourages them to follow patriotic fashion. At the same time, fashion designers have freedom to conduct themselves and act in different ways. Findings: Interpretations of patriotism within a patriotic dispositif are explored vis-à-vis the interpretations of patriotism articulated by fashion designers. In addition to patriotic fashion, the forms of their creative conduct or counter-conduct are manifested in such subtypes of patriotism in fashion as cosmopolitan patriotism, economic patriotism, cultural patriotism, and fashion localism.
The case of Pre-Helsinki, a designers-driven platform aiming at internationalizing Finnish fashio... more The case of Pre-Helsinki, a designers-driven platform aiming at internationalizing Finnish fashion talents, illustrates how fashion designers through this platform mobilize local actors for reshaping Finnish fashion further to increase its visibility at the international level. For this inquiry, the article develops the concept of place-making, which summarizes the collective efforts of fashion designers and other local actors in the internationalization of Finnish fashion. Place-making comprises three themes, including the dynamic and consolidated interplay among the local actors, economic and symbolic contributions of the actors to the local development, and its implementation at multiple scales from neighborhood to city and nation. The data for analysis are retrieved from semi-structured interviews with actors around the case and ethnographic observations. The research shows how Pre-Helsinki was appeared as a reaction to local and global level disconnections of Finnish fashion, and how these disconnections were addressed in its activities. The background, origin of the platform, its activities and main actors are discussed in the context of how the platform implements place-making and contributes to building a meaning of Helsinki and Finland as places of fashion. In conclusion, the case is explored in the broader development of Finnish fashion ecosystem.
This article explores the careers of young fashion designers as entrepreneurs in Russia. It discu... more This article explores the careers of young fashion designers as entrepreneurs in Russia. It discusses entrepreneurial experiences and labour practices of fashion designers in the context of precarity: that is, the structural conditions characterized by a lack of social, economic and emotional security caused by a shift of responsibilities for the labour market from the state to the citizens.The article takes the perspective of designers’ agency and answers the question of how young fashion entrepreneurs deal with such structural conditions using state support, community support, organizational practices and emotional management. The article also focuses on creative labour in the broader context of the circumstances of a creative class in an authoritarian state. We argue that in today’s Russia, the discourse on the creative class is perhaps more important than the discourse on precarity, since belonging to the creative class is a source of political identity for fashion designers. The issue of precarity, then, can become a further basis for solidarity and political action. The research draws from 21 in-depth interviews with fashion designers and experts conducted in the cities of Moscow, St. Petersburg and Novosibirsk between 2015 and 2016.
В данной статье рассматривается, каким образом фильм может быть использован в качестве тактики сб... more В данной статье рассматривается, каким образом фильм может быть использован в качестве тактики сбора данных и формы презентации результатов социологическо-го исследования, нацеленного на изучение социальной группы представителей мало-го бизнеса креативного направления (дизайнеров одежды). Под «исследовательским фильмом» понимается фильм, построенный на принципах научного (социологического) исследования и подразумевающий участвующее наблюдение с видеофиксацией проис-ходящего и последующим монтажом и анализом материалов. На примере опыта рабо-ты над исследовательским фильмом " Take it slow! Sustainable fashion for local community in Kallio, Helsinki " поэтапно анализируются процедуры работы над фильмом, включая подготовку, съемки и монтаж. Особое внимание уделяется процессу монтажа: на кон-кретных примерах показывается, каким образом при помощи сочетаний закадрового комментария, картинки и музыки выстраивается аргументация участников. Авторы об-суждают трудности, с которыми они столкнулись во время работы над исследователь-ским фильмом, в том числе вторжение в личное пространство интервьюируемых, во-прос анонимности и поиск площадок для показа фильма. Авторы демонстрируют, какие дополнительные возможности дает тактика исследовательского фильма для изучения социально-профессиональных групп.
This paper discusses the diverse roles fashion designers play in the contemporary fashion industr... more This paper discusses the diverse roles fashion designers play in the contemporary fashion industry. Taking Finland as a case, it particularly investigates how fashion designers are involved in regional identity formation. By conceptualizing the place-making ability of fashion designers, it adds a new perspective on the expanded roles of fashion designers recognized in design research. This is done through exploration of Pre Helsinki, a platform launched in 2013 seeking to internationalize Finnish fashion. This platform, created and operated mostly by fashion designers, serves as a vivid example of the different roles that designers can play. The study is based on qualitative methods, namely, semi-structured interviews and ethnographic observation. Five characteristics of Pre Helsinki and five fashion designers’ corresponding roles were identified, based on thematic analysis of the data. This paper concludes with suggestions for further investigation on fashion designers to establish a dialogue between fashion and design research.
In this introductory essay the guest editors provide a critical account of the concepts of patrio... more In this introductory essay the guest editors provide a critical account of the concepts of patriotism and consumption. Whilst nationalist sentiments are on the rise in many countries in the world, there has been little research on citizen participation outside the conventional politics of the nation-state. There is even less scholarship on consumption and patriotism and digital media; and finally, there has been little work emerging in relation to the countries of the region. Therefore, the authors explain how this special issue of Studies in Russian, Eurasian and Central European New Media aims to fill in these gaps. They also present their own framework for thinking about patriotic (non)consumption. They argue that patriotism thrives in human agency, especially emotions, and can play a central role in mobilization processes and identity construction. It produces attachments located in the fantasies of the societal cohesion, unity and a sense of belonging.
After the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991 and transition from a state-planned to market-d... more After the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991 and transition from a state-planned to market-driven economy, the sphere of consumption in Russia has drastically changed. Among the changes are the proliferation of global media and advertising, transnational corporations, brands and commodities. Russia also became better integrated in the global economy and culture. Therefore, the question is raised: how did these changes affect consumption in Russia at a structural level and in everyday life? How did the Soviet legacy inform consumption in postsocialist Russia? This chapter addresses these questions through exploration of scholarship on consumer culture in Russia from the beginning of the 1990s to 2015. The chapter contributes to discussion on postsocialist consumerism, global consumer culture and the effects of global capitalism on former non-market economies.
В статье представлен обзор концепций моды в современной социологии, в которых фокусом является пр... more В статье представлен обзор концепций моды в современной социологии, в которых фокусом является производство моды. Рассмотрены концепции поля производства моды Пьера Бурдье, индустрии моды Анджелы МакРобби, рынка моды Патрика Асперса, институциональная концепция моды Юнийи Кавамуры и концепция эстетических рынков Джоан Энтвистл. Обсуждаются парадигмальная принадлежность концепций, ключевые категории, которые в них используются, и ключевые идеи. Обзор позволяет получить ответ на вопрос о том, какие социологические задачи позволяют решать данные концепции.
The " eastern tourist, " as a reference category to the visitors from Russia, has been a recurrin... more The " eastern tourist, " as a reference category to the visitors from Russia, has been a recurring feature in Finnish newspapers. Focusing on the leading Finnish national daily newspaper, Helsingin Sanomat, this article explores how representations of Russian tourists as consumers have been changing in the Finnish mass media since the beginning of the 1990s until 2014. The article considers tourists as a discursive category thereby introducing a discourse analysis approach to tourism studies. Three periods are differentiated: Firstly, during the 1990s, when visitors from Russia were represented as " shuttle traders " bringing problems and disturbing social order in Finland. Secondly, from the end of the 1990s until 2014, when the newspaper discourse emphasized the economic gains from the Russian tourists and investigates peculiarities and ambiguities of their taste. At the time, Russian visitors were represented as middle class tourists. Thirdly, around the year 2014, when the Russians were portrayed as the middle class with declining purchasing power and limited ability to travel which brought loses in Finland. The analysis allowed us to observe how images of Russian tourists changed in the context of the evolving consumer culture in Russia and the neoliberal shift in the Finnish mass media discourse.
Программа курса разработана Ольгой Гуровой, кандидатом культурологии, доцентом (associate profess... more Программа курса разработана Ольгой Гуровой, кандидатом культурологии, доцентом (associate professor) Ольборгского университетa. Курс, состоящий из 7 лекций и семинаров, рассказывает о новом, но быстро ставшем популярным понятии "устойчивой моды". Устойчивая мода не должна причинять вред планете или людям. Наоборот, она должна способствовать благополучию людей и улучшать состояние окружающей среды. Что не так с модой сегодня? Индустрия моды оказывает разрушительное воздействие на окружающую среду. Она известна эксплуатацией рабского труда-в основном, в странах Юго-Восточной Азии, но не только. В западноевропейских странах работники творческого труда сталкиваются с отсутствием постоянных контрактов, слабой социальной защищенностью и пополняют ряды прекариата-неблагополучного и неустроенного социального слоя. Модные брэнды сотрясают скандалы, связанные с расизмом, сексизмом и эйджизмом. Корпорации пытаются следовать принципам устойчивой моды и заявляют об этом, но получают в ответ обвинения в гринвошинге. Все описанные проблемы так или иначе связанны с устойчивой модой, которая может иметь разные измерения-экологическое, экономическое, социальное, культурное. В курсе мы будем разбираться с каждым из этих измерений, читая и обсуждая научные и популярные тексты и рассматривая примеры из российского и международного контекста. В качестве индивидуальной или групповой практической работы в курсе я предлагаю его участникам сделать блог, журнал или подкаст. Каждый участник курса выберет 1 тему, соответствующую теме лекции, и приготовит по этой теме небольшую научно-популярную статью (2-3 стр.) для блога или журнала или интервью (5-10 мин.) для подкаста. Цель практического задания-популяризовать устойчивую моду и рассказать о ней потребителям и профессионалам. 1. Вводная лекция. Основные понятия: сходства и различия. Быстрая мода, медленная мода, этическая мода, устойчивая мода. 17 целей в области устойчивого развития ООН. Понятие "устойчивости" и ее типы (экологическая, экономическая, социальная, культурная). План курса. Обсуждение формата практической работы. Обязательная литература Томас С. (2019) Оттенки зеленого: наброски к словарю экомоды, Теория моды, 52(19),
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Papers by Olga Gurova
Pre-Helsinki и Helsinki-New, с недавнего времени объединенные в рамках совместного проекта Fashion-In-Helsinki. Несмотря на недавний успех профессиональных финских дизайнеров, Финляндию и ее модную индустрию по-прежнему называют «многообещающей». Цель этой статьи — показать, как мода в Финляндии, особенно в Хельсинки, развивалась, пытаясь совмещать поддержание приобретенной профессиональной репутации со всесторонним коммерческим развитием новых и укреплением существующих местных и глобальных сетей.
Methodology/Approach: Patriotism is approached as an appeal to patria and is considered as a socially constructed category. To explore the construction of patriotism, this research uses Michel Foucault’s concept of governmentality. In the market, the state, commercial companies, media, and consumers co-produce the dispositif of patriotism, which conducts the creative conduct of fashion designers and encourages them to follow patriotic fashion. At the same time, fashion designers have freedom to conduct themselves and act in different ways.
Findings: Interpretations of patriotism within a patriotic dispositif are explored vis-à-vis the interpretations of patriotism articulated by fashion designers. In addition to patriotic fashion, the forms of their creative conduct or counter-conduct are manifested in such subtypes of patriotism in fashion as cosmopolitan patriotism, economic patriotism, cultural patriotism, and fashion localism.
issue of precarity, then, can become a further basis for solidarity and political action. The research draws from 21 in-depth interviews with fashion designers and experts conducted in the cities of Moscow, St. Petersburg and Novosibirsk between 2015 and 2016.
Pre-Helsinki и Helsinki-New, с недавнего времени объединенные в рамках совместного проекта Fashion-In-Helsinki. Несмотря на недавний успех профессиональных финских дизайнеров, Финляндию и ее модную индустрию по-прежнему называют «многообещающей». Цель этой статьи — показать, как мода в Финляндии, особенно в Хельсинки, развивалась, пытаясь совмещать поддержание приобретенной профессиональной репутации со всесторонним коммерческим развитием новых и укреплением существующих местных и глобальных сетей.
Methodology/Approach: Patriotism is approached as an appeal to patria and is considered as a socially constructed category. To explore the construction of patriotism, this research uses Michel Foucault’s concept of governmentality. In the market, the state, commercial companies, media, and consumers co-produce the dispositif of patriotism, which conducts the creative conduct of fashion designers and encourages them to follow patriotic fashion. At the same time, fashion designers have freedom to conduct themselves and act in different ways.
Findings: Interpretations of patriotism within a patriotic dispositif are explored vis-à-vis the interpretations of patriotism articulated by fashion designers. In addition to patriotic fashion, the forms of their creative conduct or counter-conduct are manifested in such subtypes of patriotism in fashion as cosmopolitan patriotism, economic patriotism, cultural patriotism, and fashion localism.
issue of precarity, then, can become a further basis for solidarity and political action. The research draws from 21 in-depth interviews with fashion designers and experts conducted in the cities of Moscow, St. Petersburg and Novosibirsk between 2015 and 2016.