D_tex: 3rd International Textile Design Conference, 2024
Embedded in design research, this study aims to under educational methods stand and reflect on th... more Embedded in design research, this study aims to under educational methods stand and reflect on the relevance of the existence of a higher education specialized in textile design for the Portuguese territory. The transformation of production processes and business structures to protect the planet and minimize environmental impacts is already underway in the textile industry. To support these changes, different forms of teaching are sought that go beyond traditional methods and enable textile designers to apply theoretical knowledge to solve real-world challenges. Methodologically, a non-interventional study was adopted, supported by a literature review and a focus group, with the aim of stimulating reflection and providing innovative perspectives on the topic under study. As a meaningful conclusion, it can be pointed out the lack of higher education in textile design in Portugal, although it is an engine of the national economy. A specialized offer in this field, in close connection between academia and industry, should be considered to support the textile industry in the mentioned changes and thus continue to weave paths for a textile economy of the future.
Weaving the bobbin lace is a traditional activity from Peniche, a village situated in the west co... more Weaving the bobbin lace is a traditional activity from Peniche, a village situated in the west coast of Portugal. This activity is known like art for centuries. However, the traditional way of producing it has been kept as well as the works produced. The bobbin lace hasn’t accompanied the evolution of times nor does it risk innovation. This wrong perspective has led to the discredit of the product, leading the young generations to keep on producing it the way their ancestors have done it – weaving the lace both for home consumption and/or entertainment. In an interventionist methodology, we propose the use of new materials to replace the traditional use of cotton as far as weaving the bobbin lace is concerned as well as the creation of new products. These two parts getting together can and probably will give a new perspective of the traditional and lead to new consumptions and/or applicability to the bobbin lace. Innovation is the key word for doing it. The desire of getting to know the new and the different, recreated from the traditional, will arouse curiosity in the young generations.
Autism is a developmental brain disorder that affects communication skills and social integration... more Autism is a developmental brain disorder that affects communication skills and social integration, often exposing stereotyped and repetitive patterns. People with this syndrome have an overreaction or underreaction to different sensory stimuli, presenting difficulty in sharing emotions and interpreting body languages.There are studies confirming different reactions between genders, and it is pertinent to analyse how both adapt to the act of dressing and to the reception of different pieces of clothing.Neglecting the practice of Fashion representation and highlighting the functionality of the act of covering and protecting the body, this study aims to discover the wardrobe of a patient with ASD (Autistic Spectrum Disorder) and to know how Design can be more inclusive to improve their wellbeing. Being just the beginning of the investigation, now still based on literature review and pre-test results, the conclusion of the study is not fully defined. Elements of Fashion Design have not all been tested, and the small sample results reflect the needs of caregivers more than the needs of patients
Advances in intelligent systems and computing, Jun 24, 2018
Making an old handcraft in the same way since it already exists is a half way for killing it. A n... more Making an old handcraft in the same way since it already exists is a half way for killing it. A new style about it and a new perspective its necessary. Thinking on this important tradition characteristic, together with the local community from Peniche, in Portugal, we proposed new interventions and possibilities for renovated products.
The textile industry is responsible for the production of more than 2 billion tons of effluents/w... more The textile industry is responsible for the production of more than 2 billion tons of effluents/waste, most of which are discarded into the ecosystem, namely and mostly into water ecosystems, essentially after the dyeing and printing processes. In fact, dyeing is one of the most polluting processes in the textile industry, representing a high source of pollution. According to the World Bank, the textile dyeing industries are responsible for more than 20% of the pollution of all water used at the industrial level.One of the serious problems related to the group of synthetic dyes is the level of chemical compounds used for their production, which has a high level of toxicity. In this context, the group of azo dyes stands out, for example, which predominate in most textile processing applications and have carcinogenic and mutagenic potential. These mentioned problems do not only have an impact in terms of the environment, but also in terms of human health since they can cause irritatio...
D_tex: 3rd International Textile Design Conference, 2024
Embedded in design research, this study aims to under educational methods stand and reflect on th... more Embedded in design research, this study aims to under educational methods stand and reflect on the relevance of the existence of a higher education specialized in textile design for the Portuguese territory. The transformation of production processes and business structures to protect the planet and minimize environmental impacts is already underway in the textile industry. To support these changes, different forms of teaching are sought that go beyond traditional methods and enable textile designers to apply theoretical knowledge to solve real-world challenges. Methodologically, a non-interventional study was adopted, supported by a literature review and a focus group, with the aim of stimulating reflection and providing innovative perspectives on the topic under study. As a meaningful conclusion, it can be pointed out the lack of higher education in textile design in Portugal, although it is an engine of the national economy. A specialized offer in this field, in close connection between academia and industry, should be considered to support the textile industry in the mentioned changes and thus continue to weave paths for a textile economy of the future.
Weaving the bobbin lace is a traditional activity from Peniche, a village situated in the west co... more Weaving the bobbin lace is a traditional activity from Peniche, a village situated in the west coast of Portugal. This activity is known like art for centuries. However, the traditional way of producing it has been kept as well as the works produced. The bobbin lace hasn’t accompanied the evolution of times nor does it risk innovation. This wrong perspective has led to the discredit of the product, leading the young generations to keep on producing it the way their ancestors have done it – weaving the lace both for home consumption and/or entertainment. In an interventionist methodology, we propose the use of new materials to replace the traditional use of cotton as far as weaving the bobbin lace is concerned as well as the creation of new products. These two parts getting together can and probably will give a new perspective of the traditional and lead to new consumptions and/or applicability to the bobbin lace. Innovation is the key word for doing it. The desire of getting to know the new and the different, recreated from the traditional, will arouse curiosity in the young generations.
Autism is a developmental brain disorder that affects communication skills and social integration... more Autism is a developmental brain disorder that affects communication skills and social integration, often exposing stereotyped and repetitive patterns. People with this syndrome have an overreaction or underreaction to different sensory stimuli, presenting difficulty in sharing emotions and interpreting body languages.There are studies confirming different reactions between genders, and it is pertinent to analyse how both adapt to the act of dressing and to the reception of different pieces of clothing.Neglecting the practice of Fashion representation and highlighting the functionality of the act of covering and protecting the body, this study aims to discover the wardrobe of a patient with ASD (Autistic Spectrum Disorder) and to know how Design can be more inclusive to improve their wellbeing. Being just the beginning of the investigation, now still based on literature review and pre-test results, the conclusion of the study is not fully defined. Elements of Fashion Design have not all been tested, and the small sample results reflect the needs of caregivers more than the needs of patients
Advances in intelligent systems and computing, Jun 24, 2018
Making an old handcraft in the same way since it already exists is a half way for killing it. A n... more Making an old handcraft in the same way since it already exists is a half way for killing it. A new style about it and a new perspective its necessary. Thinking on this important tradition characteristic, together with the local community from Peniche, in Portugal, we proposed new interventions and possibilities for renovated products.
The textile industry is responsible for the production of more than 2 billion tons of effluents/w... more The textile industry is responsible for the production of more than 2 billion tons of effluents/waste, most of which are discarded into the ecosystem, namely and mostly into water ecosystems, essentially after the dyeing and printing processes. In fact, dyeing is one of the most polluting processes in the textile industry, representing a high source of pollution. According to the World Bank, the textile dyeing industries are responsible for more than 20% of the pollution of all water used at the industrial level.One of the serious problems related to the group of synthetic dyes is the level of chemical compounds used for their production, which has a high level of toxicity. In this context, the group of azo dyes stands out, for example, which predominate in most textile processing applications and have carcinogenic and mutagenic potential. These mentioned problems do not only have an impact in terms of the environment, but also in terms of human health since they can cause irritatio...
Poster apresentado nos Encontros com a Ciência 2022 sobre uma investigação em curso que tem como ... more Poster apresentado nos Encontros com a Ciência 2022 sobre uma investigação em curso que tem como universo de estudo o ensino superior em design têxtil em Portugal.
This exploratory study is part of a research in design and aims to understand how Portuguese high... more This exploratory study is part of a research in design and aims to understand how Portuguese higher education in textile and fashion design addresses the issue of sustainability in the preparation and training of undergraduate students. The textile and clothing industry is in a period of change with the need to restructure its business models and production processes, adding decarbonization, digitalization, circular economy and sustainability, which consequently affects the textile and fashion designer´s activity, and it is necessary to develop new ways of working and collaboration methods taking into account these premises. The academia, in turn, must prepare textile and fashion designers to participate in this restructuring by integrating the knowledge in the elective spheres in the curricula. A non-interventional investigation was conducted, using a literature review and data collection using triangulation as the main method, with the aim of stimulating reflection and weaving new perspectives on the subject under study. It was found that the topic of sustainability is only partially addressed in Portuguese higher education in textile and fashion design and that there are key competencies in the field of society, circular economy and sustainability that the textile and fashion designer must be prepared to respond to the challenges of the textile and clothing industry, society and the planet.
This preliminary research is part of a design investigation and seeks to examine the Portuguese h... more This preliminary research is part of a design investigation and seeks to examine the Portuguese higher education landscape in textile design and the challenges faced by the sector. The world is undergoing transformation, with an increase in problem complexity. Emerging challenges in sustainability, circu-lar economy, decarbonization, and digital economy are impacting the textile industry. Textile designers must adapt their thinking and approach to address these challenges, making it crucial for higher education in textile design to keep pace with these changes. To determine the key competencies required by textile designers in their profession, a literature review and data collection were conducted, linking various research topics to stimulate reflection and open new perspectives in the field of research. The research concludes that there are essential skills for textile designers to effectively respond to these challenges. However, the availability of Portuguese higher education programs in textile design is limited. Bringing together textile design-focused education in a close partnership between academia and industry is imperative to prepare textile designers who will actively contribute to a circular economy and shape a promising future for the textile industry.
This exploratory study is part of design research and aims to understand and reflect on Portugues... more This exploratory study is part of design research and aims to understand and reflect on Portuguese higher education in textile design and to make recommendations for the different actors involved – academia, industry, and designers. The textile industry is undergoing a process of change in its production processes and business models to minimize the environmental impact caused. New forms of teaching are needed that go beyond the traditional approach and train the ability to apply theoretical knowledge to real-world problems. A non-interventional study was conducted, based on reviewing the literature and focus group, to stimulate reflection and bring new perspectives on the object of study. The study concludes that Portuguese higher education in textile design is limited and should be complemented with a specialized offer in this field in a close relationship between academia and industry to allow shared education, thus contributing to weave a textile economy of the future.
This paper intends to reflect on the importance of the choice of materials during the concept pha... more This paper intends to reflect on the importance of the choice of materials during the concept phase of fashion and textiles products and its relation between design and the academia for the sustainability of the future. The methodology will be carried out through a review of literature which intends to review fundamental concepts and develop strategies to raise awareness about sustainability and circular economy, allowing to understand its importance for the learning of future students. With the evolution of the textile and clothing industry and the needs of the user, it is expected to be able to identify major thematic areas, which are indispensable to design and education. In addition, a reflection on the importance of the theme in the current and future economy will also be proposed.
This paper intends to reflect on the importance of the choice of materials during the concept pha... more This paper intends to reflect on the importance of the choice of materials during the concept phase of fashion and textiles products and its relation between design and the academia for the sustainability of the future. The methodology will be carried out through a review of literature which intends to review fundamental concepts and develop strategies to raise awareness about sustainability and circular economy, allowing to understand its importance for the learning of future students. With the evolution of the textile and clothing industry and the needs of the user, it is expected to be able to identify major thematic areas, which are indispensable to design and education. In addition, a reflection on the importance of the theme in the current and future economy will also be proposed.
This study is part of a design investigation and aims to reflect on higher education in textile d... more This study is part of a design investigation and aims to reflect on higher education in textile design in Portugal. The textile industry is facing the need to restructure its production processes and business models incorporating the dimensions of sustainability, circular economy, digitalization and decarbonization in favor of the sustainability of the planet and the human being. The role of the textile designer is present throughout the entire process of developing a textile object, and not just in the creative phase, being necessary to develop new ways of working and collaboration methods that consider these premises. In turn, the academia should prepare textile designers to collaborate in this restructuring by integrating knowledge related to the dimensions listed. A non-interventionist investigation was conducted based on the literature review and data collection, triangulating the research themes, aiming to stimulate reflection and weave paths of approximation between academia and industry. It was concluded that the academic offer in textile design is scarce and that there are key skills in the field of sustainability, circular economy and society that the textile designer must be prepared to respond to the challenges of the textile industry and strengthen the dialogue between academia and industry.
Immersed in the weaves of design research, this study aims to weave through the threads of knowle... more Immersed in the weaves of design research, this study aims to weave through the threads of knowledge a deep and reflective understanding of Portuguese higher education specialized in textile design. In order to minimize the impact on the environment and protect the planet, the textile industry is undergoing a process of change that is metamorphosing production processes and business structures. To embrace change, textile designers must be able to apply theoretical and practical knowledge in a real environment. This requires the search for new and different forms of teaching that transcend traditional methods. Methodologically, an observational approach was adopted, interwoven through the evaluation of literature and interviews with experts in the universe under study, in order to promote reflection and inspire visionary perspectives on the topic under analysis. With an eloquent conclusion, the lack of higher education in textile design in Portugal is pointed out. To continue to weave a textile economy of the future, a teaching-learning model in textile design in close connection between industry and academia should be considered to prepare future textile designers to work with the ongoing changes.
International Research & Education in Design Conference 2022 — REDES2022, 2022
This exploratory study aims to reflect on the importance of a transdisciplinary approach in the c... more This exploratory study aims to reflect on the importance of a transdisciplinary approach in the creation of textile products. The textile industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Therefore, there is a need to rethink the way textile products are designed from the initial stage to their relationship with the consumer. The role of academia in close collaboration with industry needs to be enhanced to provide textile designers with skills and knowledge in finding solutions to complex problems related to the sustainability of the planet and human beings. A non-interventionist investigation was conducted using literature review and surveys, interconnecting and crossing the different research topics. The goal was to reflect on possible ways to bring industry and academia to understand the importance of a transdisciplinary vision in the training of future textile designers. The paper concludes that with the evolution of the textile industry it is expected to be able to work with skills in the fields of sustainability, circular economy and society, and that a transdisciplinary approach can be a path to follow to ensure the social and environmental well-being of human beings and the planet in a close dialogue between industry and academia.
Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering. AHFE (2022) International Conference, 2022
This study aims to reflect on the role of different actors-industry, academia, designer, user-in ... more This study aims to reflect on the role of different actors-industry, academia, designer, user-in the adoption of more sustainable production and consumption practices of textile products. Problems become more and more complex, due to the convergences of knowledge, and this affects the way textile designers work and consequently how textile design education should adapt. It is essential to prepare textile designers to face these new challenges that demand new ways of working. The methodology was carried out through literature review and data collection, to analyze the fundamental concepts and develop awareness strategies about sustainability and circular economy allowing to understand their importance between the different actors. The article concludes that there are fundamental skills for the textile designer to be able to respond to these challenges and that a transdisciplinary approach can be a way forward in a closer dialogue between industry and academia.
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