Bitter Bread and Sour

For dole bread is bitter bread Bitter bread and sour There’s grief in the taste of it There’s weevils in the flour So wrote Australian poet and playwright Dorothy Hewitt in her poem Where I Grew to Be A Man based on the experiences of her friend Vera Deacon who lived on Kooragang Island in the Hunter River at Newcastle. Newcastle was home to the steelworks of the Broken Hill Proprietary Company which had been established in 1815 to mine silver and lead at Broken Hill in western New South Wales. When the 1930-1933 Depression hit Australia, workers at the steel mills, like many others throughout all sectors of Australian industry, suffered severe hardship. But dole bread is not the whole picture. This paper draws on interviews by Wendy Lowenstein in her 1978 book Weevils in The Flour. An oral record of the 1930s depression in Australia, and the Australian Women’s Mirror magazine during the Depression years, to draw a fuller picture of what Australians ate during those years. First a quick sketch of the Depression as it affected Australia. ‘Early in 1929,’ wrote historian Manning Clark, ‘sharp falls in the prices of wool and wheat, the withdrawal of English capital, and the fall in export prices by 50 per cent, began a severe financial crisis’. Manning Clark, A Short History of Australia, (Ringwood, 1986) p. 198 On October 29, 1929, the US stock market crashed, precipitating the world-wide financial crisis now called the Great Depression which was to last globally till 1933. Australia’s national income fell from £640 million to £560 million pounds between 1928 – 29 and 1929 – 30. Unemployment increased sharply. In response, the Commonwealth Labor government appointed Sir Otto Niemeyer of the Bank of England to draw up a plan for shoring up Australia’s finances. As Niemeyer saw it, wrote Manning Clark, ‘the Australian policy of protection of native industry [a key platform of all Australian governments since Federation] and heavy borrowing abroad had created a standard of living that bore little relation to the Australian level of production’ Ibid, p. 199. Niemeyer recommended further cuts to government infrastructure projects, wages, social welfare and defence spending. The Commonwealth and States agreed to the plan. The result was catastrophic: by 1932 unemployment reached a peak of 32 per cent. An estimated 40,000 people were made homeless, many living in shanty towns or public parks. Upwards of 30,000 men went ‘on the wallaby’, wandering through rural Australia looking for work. Russell Lewis, The Story of Australia, (Sydney, 2017), p. 260 As the stock market was crashing on October 29, Australian newsagents were stocking their magazine rack with that week’s issue of the Australian Woman’s Mirror. [Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 1 No 1, 29 October, 1929, cover, trove.nla.gov.au] First published in October 1924 as a spin-off from the Bulletin magazine, the Mirror aimed to ‘appeal to Australian women. Every female interest and activity will be served in the best way that long experience can suggest, and money can command’. Australian Woman’s Mirror, Vol 1 No 1, 23 October 1924, p. 2  By 1929, 160,000 copies sold each week at 3d per copy. It carried a regular feature Kitchen Craft whose author, unfortunately, was never identified, and also carried recipes submitted by readers. Women also contributed short articles about aspects of managing their household on other pages in the magazine. Now it was two months from Christmas 1929 and the topic of Kitchen Craft was Getting Ready for Christmas with recipes for Rich Christmas Cake, Rich Christmas Pudding, Mince Meat Pies. S.C.S of Rosebery contributed My Grandmother’s Christmas Pudding, “Hazelbrook’ of Cremorne gave her recipe for Currant, Peel and Cherry Christmas Cake and Ruth of Turramurra contributed her Christmas Plum Pudding. ‘Getting Ready for Christmas’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 5 No 49, 29 October 1929, pp. 42 - 44 The Mirror usually only published the initials of its contributors, or sometime a pen name, and the initials of the State where they lived. A week later, the Mirror of 5 November gave no hint anywhere in the magazine that anything of any consequence had happened. Kitchen Craft featured Toothsome Savouries – three types of scones, geranium jelly, roast pork with apple and date stuffing, pork cheese [made from pigs trotters], and readers contributed fish souffle, cheese fritters, tripe delicious, carrot cup pudding and frosted ginger cake. ‘Toothsome Savouries’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 5 No 50, 5 November 1929, pp. 42 -44 The first hint that something was changing comes in the edition of 3 Dec 1929 in which Agnes Robinson assures readers that while they might ‘stifle a sigh as we realise the cost of a ham [for Christmas] … when it is remembered that there is little waste (the bone will later provide excellent soup) and that ham keeps well, it will be found that it is after all not a very expensive luxury’. Agnes Robinson, ‘The Christmas Ham’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 6 No 2, 3 December 1929, p. 42   By April 1930, it is clear that financial hardship is becoming more common. PAR of South Australia contributes two Nourishing Economy Dishes to the edition of 14 April: Sheep’s Head and Fry, in which the head, liver and heart are boiled, the head then covered in egged bread crumbs and browned in the oven and served with the minced heart and liver, and Rabbit with Vegetables. Dishes of offal were common at the time and later editions of the Mirror would continue to carry recipes for it. G WENDA writing in May 1931 commenting on a thrifty meals competition held by the Victorian Housewives Association was pleased to see ‘the extent to which housewives have used sheep’s head to make economical and nourishing dishes’. G WENDA, ‘Our   Cooking   Faults’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 7 No 27, 26 May 1931, p. 19 Rabbits also were standard fare if the Mirror is any gauge of its popularity, with a recipe for rabbit appearing on average in every second edition, peaking in June 1933 with a Kitchen Craft feature on Further Suggestions for Rabbit Dinners which included Rice and Rabbit Stew, Rabbit Cream, Rabbit Brawn, Rabbit Paste, Rabbit-and-Potato Rissoles, Cheese and Rabbit Dish, Roast Rabbit with Apple-Raisin Stuffing, Fried Rabbit with Tartare Sauce, Queen Soup [which involves boiling rabbit in a stock and then rubbing it through a sieve] and Corned Rabbit, all recipes contributed by readers. ‘Further Suggestions for Rabbit Dinners’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 9 No 31, 27 June 1933, p. 44 [Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 9 No 31, 27 June 1933, p. 44, trove.nla.gov.au] It wasn’t only the cost-conscious home cook for whom rabbits were a blessing. Tom Hills speaking with Lowenstein recalled the food of workers on government Relief Work in rural Australia, a national scheme under which men could earn a small sum for labouring on public works, the catch being they had to keep moving from place to place to get the income. ‘Our food stuff,’ Tom Hills said, ‘used to come out after midnight. We didn’t have meat for three months ‘cos we couldn’t keep it … Our meat supply was rabbits. They were like flocks of sheep. You’d put a trap down, catch a rabbit, skin it, cook it. Chuck what was left over away. Next meal, go down, catch a rabbit ,skin it, cook it, chuck it away. Wendy Lowenstein, Weevils in The Flour. An oral record of the 1930s depression in Australia, (Melbourne, 1978), p. 425 Tom Galvin, who lived in the self-deprecatingly named Happy Valley unemployed people’s camp at La Perouse in Sydney told Lowenstein: ‘It seems we were often hungry, but not often absolutely without resource … many homes had gardens where vegetables could be grown, where chooks could be kept. And there was always the rabbit.’ Galvin also recalled that ‘Local fishermen would give us a hand-out especially when they got salmon, because their chance of selling it at the market were next to nil. Get tuppence a pound for it. We might help pull in the nets. The Chinese market gardens up the road could only sell their top production, and their cheapest grades they gave to us...The Dairy Farmers’ Co-operative donated sixteen gallons of milk a day to the camp. Lowenstein, Weevils, pp 419 - 420 [Happy Valley: migrationheritage.nsw.gov.au] Kangaroo and wallaby, by the by, get just one recipe each over the course of the Depression issues of the Mirror. As 1930 progressed, the Mirror carried more material on feeding a family in straitened times. In the 6 May issue Kitchen Craft featured Economy Dishes for Hard Times which it said were enough to ‘keep house for three people on less than £2 per week: Instead of the expensive cutlets prepared by the butcher, purchase 1lb or 1½lb of the best end of neck of mutton. Ask the butcher to divide between the joints so that the chops can be separated singly. Trim each chop as tradesmen do cutlets and flatten it with your kitchen chopper – if you have not a chopper a small wood hatchet answers the purpose. If your hens are laying the cutlets may be dipped in egg and crumbs and fried in the usual way. If the hens are moulting and have ceased laying, or if you do not possess hens, you need not buy eggs; use instead a batter made with a little flour and water salted and peppered and coloured with a pinch of flavoured custard powder. A little chopped parsley may be added to the batter. Serve with mashed potato or boil 3 onions and 1lb potatoes together (save the water they are boiled in for soup). Rub the potatoes and onions through a sieve, place in a clean saucepan with a little butter and a tablespoon of (warmed) milk, beat till light, pile on a hot dish and place the cutlets (grilled) round it. Simmer the trimmings of the meat and bones and add the onion and potato water. This, with a suitable seasoning of pepper, salt, a little tomato pulp or anything else suitable that you may have, a little blended flour or cornflour for thickening, will make a soup for the same day’s dinner - or for the next day – at less than the cost of the cutlets alone had the butcher trimmed them for you. ‘Economy Dishes for Hard Times’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 6 No 24, 6 May 1930, p. 44 In the 27 May issue M.B.D. of NSW while commending the advice from Kitchen Craft earlier in May draws attention to what she considers an important ‘untouched vital point in kitchen economy … the question of making the most of food by using up the scraps’. She offers this three course meal: Bread Soup, which she says is very popular in France, and which can be made with stale bread, stock made from vegetable peelings, scraps of bacon and cold meat; Potato Puffs, balls of minced cold cuts of meat and mashed potato, flavoured with Worcestershire sauce, rolled in egg and breadcrumbs and deep fried; and Cake Crumb Pudding, made much like a bread pudding. The meal, in the quantities she gives, she writes ‘is sufficient for three persons and will cost about 1/3 except where eggs and milk are ‘home grown’. M.B.D., ‘Make   the   Most   of   Your   Food’,   Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 6 No 27, 27 May 1930, p. 44   As unemployment continued to grow alarmingly, state governments put in place relief measures. ‘Whilst they varied from place to place’, wrote Lowenstein, ‘they were alike in their niggardly insufficiency’. Lowenstein, Weevils, p. 4 Victoria was the only state to make cash payments to the unemployed. Mary E. from Victoria contributed Living on the “Ration" to the 4 August 1931 edition of  the Mirror. ‘I manage on a Victorian sustenance order’, she wrote, ‘under which we are allowed 7/2 worth a week of groceries, 4/- worth of meat, five large loaves of bread every second day and a quart of milk a day’. ‘My husband’, she continues, ‘is an unemployed clerk but does canvassing every day from nine till five to make the rent (he doesn’t always manage it!) and to give me 1/6 a week for vegetables and fruit’. ‘My meat’, she says ‘is a simple matter as I have a very kind and generous butcher and my children do not need a lot of meat; the eldest is not quite seven, two others are five-and-a-bit and four, and the last two (girls) respectively two years and seven months. I have been able to feed the baby but will not be able to do that much longer. [I take this to mean that she is still breast-feeding]. I was hard put to it at first to know what to get with my 7/2 for groceries,’ she continues, ‘but this is how I now lay out the sum: 3 lb sugar 1/1 ½ 1 packet self-raising flour 4d ½ lb mild cheese 5d ½ lb loose cocoa 3 ½ d 8 lb potatoes 3d 1 lb butter 1/7 ½ dozen eggs 1/- 1 pint kerosene 3d 2 lb digestive meal 2½d 1 lb rice or barley 3d 1 small bar velvet soap 4d 1 tin jam 6d 1 tin syrup 6½d Perhaps two boxes of matches or a knot of blue with the remainder 1d [The syrup here is golden syrup and the knot of blue is the laundry product added when washing white clothes, usually a small amount of blue dye that makes white look whiter] “Not being a tea-drinker’, she writes, ‘a half-pound lasts us quite a long time: syrup also lasts almost a fortnight, so I alternate between syrup and jam. If one got sauces, mustard etc., the 7/2 would not be enough. I could do with more, but I manage. Digestive meal is very cheap, and, with half milk and half water and some flavouring makes a nice blancmange with stewed fruit. I vary with oatmeal for breakfast some weeks to prevent the kiddies getting tired of it. The butter lasts till Tuesday, and the rest of the time we use dripping, but dripping can be made quite tasty if a little thought is used. The eggs I use for baking and sandwiches for school lunches. Rice and barley make nice puddings, and to save fuel I usually put on a pudding or stew fruit while the breakfast is cooking. Even if a stew or soup cooks for only half an hour it means the fire needs to be stoked for at least that much less time’. Mary E., ‘Living on the “Ration"’ Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 7 No 38, 4 August 1931, p.20   While Mary was apparently still using a wood stove, gas stoves were increasingly popular. Kitchen Craft, in the same edition had suggestions for How to Make the Most of Your Gas stove. ‘A clean gas stove will use less gas and give better results than a neglected one. … Learn to regulate the flame. Unless you have it the correct length and colour you will consume twice as much gas as is necessary. The flame should be ¾in to 1in long, sharp and distinct, blue in colour … the best ware to use is aluminium, as anything thick and heavy will take more gas; asbestos mats will obviate burning’. ‘Make the Best Use of Your Gas Stove’ Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 7 No 34, 4 August 1931, p.42 Readers also contributed suggestions for savings on gas. E.T.G. of New South Wales advised in July 1931: ‘There is no need to light a gas oven merely to cook a custard pudding. Rice, sago, etc., may be put in a pie-dish with sufficient milk and sugar, placed over a low burner and cooked gently till soft. Then remove from the stove, cool slightly and add beaten eggs and flavourings. Place the pie-dish in a larger one partly filled with hot water, cover with either another pie-dish or an enamel plate and cook over low gas’. ‘When boiling vegetables’, she suggests, ‘ place a kettle of water on top of the pot instead of using the lid. The water will be almost boiling by the time the vegetables are cooked’. E.T.G.,  ‘Other   Gas   Economies’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 7 No 33, 7 July 1931, p.22 Daisy of South Australia writes in the following July issue that she uses ‘a gas-saver called a Meter-Beater which I bought for a very small sum. It is made of cast-iron and shaped to take three saucepans. Stand it over a gas-jet and three pans can be kept boiling with a very small flame once the apparatus is hot. Daisy, ‘Gas   Economies’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 7 No 36, 28 July 1931, p. 21 [Rare Vintage Kitchenalia Tool Cast Iron the Gas Meter Beater: worthpoint.com] Unlike the Victorian government, the New South Wales government opted for relief first through providing food directly. Ina speaking to Wendy Lowenstein recalled: At first when unemployment got bad, they didn’t give coupons. You all had to go to No 7 Wharf – didn’t matter where you lived … You took a sugar bag, and you lined up – there’d be thousands of you – and you’d get a ticket. You’d have to take that up to the Benevolent Society Rooms in Quay Street, up near Central Station, it’s about two miles from the Wharf so you had to walk up. Depending on the size of your family you’d get food handed out to you. A tin of plum jam, a tin of condensed milk, a tin of syrup, three or four loaves of bread and a big hunk of meat cut just any way. That had to feed you and your family. There was no cheese or butter or eggs, nothing nourishing. No vegetables…It would take all day!’ Lowenstein, Weevils, p. 213 [Men ordered to present food relief tickets for inspection because of fraud allegations, at the dole queues at No.7 Wharf, Circular Quay, Sydney. 11 June 1931: Fairfax archive: Australia during the Great Depression, smh.com.au] By mid-1932, things had improved. Edith Butler, a nurse who would later become Nurse Matron to the Australian Army, writing in the Mirror in May 1932 noted: As a result of so many persons now being on the dole and its carefully arranged ration, there has been a noticeable  improvement in health, particularly in children. This improvement is said to be due to the fact that the ration is scientifically compiled and that housewives have much less to spend on luxury and unsuitable foods, those consumed being of a higher nutritive value … It is assumed that those using the ration are unemployed, so the ration is based on sufficient food to keep healthy those at moderate work [meaning I think the relief work Tom Hills spoke of]. A typical ration is that allotted an average family of father, mother and two children ... Such a ration provides for this weekly supply: nine loaves (or 18 lbs) of bread, 8 lb meat, 10 oz tea, 4 lb sugar, 48 oz jam, 3 lb condensed milk, 1¾lbs butter, ¾ lb cheese, 7 lbs potatoes, 2 lbs onions, 1 lb prunes, 2 lbs oatmeal, 2 lbs golden syrup, 1 lb rice, 3 lbs flour, 7 pints milk. An alternative list says house-mothers have the option to substitute any of the foregoing items for one another, and also to take instead of the foregoing any of these commodities: powdered milk, dripping, honey, barley, cocoa, coffee, eggs, salt, baking powder, treacle, pumpkin, swedes, self-raising flour, dried peas or lentils, currants, sultanas and raisins. Edith Butler, ‘The Dole Ration as a Diet How It May Be Helped Out Where Deficient in Food Value’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 8 No 24, 10 May 1932, p. 19   Butler was critical of the ration, saying it lacked sufficient mineral salts and vitamins ‘to keep the body healthy and the mineral salts in balance and to enable the food to be made use of properly by assimilation’. Ibid She advocates increasing the intake of grated raw vegetables – pumpkin, turnip swedes and carrots in particular. ‘Liver,’ she writes, ‘is cheap and it should be selected a couple of times a week; and when (as in the country) buttermilk is available it should be taken … meat …need not be the best cut to provide good value, for scrag at 3d per pound has as much food value as ribs of beef and makes a delicious stew with carrots, turnips, parsley and barley added; and Corned beef at 2½d lb is economical food and can be eaten hot one day – with vegetables cooked with it, thereby saving gas – and cold the next day with a raw vegetable salad … Roughage is essential for proper elimination each day, for where fruit and vegetables are limited it is important to see that coarser foods are eaten. Bran, prunes raisins and barley supply roughage. Ibid [Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 8 No 24, 10 May 1932, p. 36, trove.nla.gov.au] Ration 42 from New South Wales in June 1932 writes that she found Butlers’ article ‘very helpful and interesting, but the statutory ration for two takes some managing’. She describes a monthly system she has developed that she says works very well: I have for a foundation three good-sized pumpkins in store, some salt, pepper, herbs, but as I have now no money, I search the bush for fresh dandelion leaves, fat hen and sorrel. The first and third weeks in the month I have just the dole ration. I find it goes farther, alternative substitutes working out too costly. On the second and fourth weeks I substitute a 2 lb tin of treacle for the jam and 2 oz of the tea, an extra quarter pound of butter and a box of matches or a knot of blue for the prunes, and 2 loaves of wholemeal bread and 2 lb of self-raising flour instead of the four loaves. Some may think less butter necessary, but my experience is that with green vegetables limited one is liable to suffer constipation, so the week we have no prunes we have the extra butter. With various soups and different cuts of meat with dripping and suet alternately, I feel I manage meals as nourishing as possible with the least sameness, and hope for the best, but the sight of a dish of new-laid eggs or a slice of juicy ham would set my mouth watering for a week! Ration 42, ‘The   Dole   Ration   for   Two’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 8 No 28, 7 June 1932, p. 14   The fat hen , that Ration 42 mentions is also known as lambs quarters, goosefoot and pig weed. It is in the same family as spinach and quinoa to which it is closely related. ‘Number 1 edible weed – fat hen’, canberrapermaculturedesign.com.au/stories-from-our-garden-blog/no-1-edible-weed-fat-hen accessed 0 September 2020 Readers wrote of other ways to economise. DIES FAUSTUS of New South Wales wrote in the same issue as did Ration 42 that ‘the making of savory pastes is one of the best ways of using up left-overs’, and gave recipes for Corned Beef and Sausage Paste, Curried Rabbit Paste [yes, rabbit again] and Economical Anchovy Paste which add anchovy essence to mashed potatoes. DIES FAUSTUS, ‘Home-made Meat Pastes’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 8 No 28, 7 June 1932, p. 44 La Folle, in May 1932 writes that ‘The biggest saving in my household this year has been made by buying fruit in case lots from the grower. Many fruit-growers now advertise a freight paid-to-you [railway] station price per case of fruit, often with a reduction for two or more cases. In my experience this works out at a price per pound form half to one-third that charged by retail shops … The average consumption in my family is half a case a week. I have a bottling outfit and preserve any surplus’. La Folle, ‘Bulk   Fruit   Buying’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 7 No 24, 5 May 1931, p. 29   SPES in February 1933 writes about a cooperative buying group of which she is part. We have a little circle of women in our town who club together to buy many essential lines, and thus save considerably. Bacon they buy by the side and take turns with the different cuts; potatoes are bought by the bag and dried fruits by the box. Household grocery lines that all need are bought by the dozen. The co-operators buy their eggs by the case in Spring at market wholesale rates and so save the 3d charged by retailers. They preserve eggs themselves. It’s just a matter of getting a few kindred saving souls to club together.’ SPES, ‘Co-operative Buying’, Australian Women’s Mirror, Vol 9 No 12, 14 February 1933, p. 12 Image credits: This was the last issue of the Australian Women’s Mirror during the Depression years to carry an article that referenced economic hardship. By 1939, unemployment had fallen considerably but many families remained on the dole. Australia was about to enter the Second World War when a new round of rationing would begin. 7