Hijab – The Islamic Dress Code: Its historical development,
evidence from sacred sources and views of selected muslim
scholars
By
Rookhsana Aziz
Master of Arts
In Islamic Studies
University of South Africa
Supervisor: Dr I.E. Jaffer
November 2010
1
Abstract
The issue of a Muslim woman‟s dress code has been debated for
centuries. This is of great importance as it is widely used as a criterion
to measure the extent of a woman‟s piety or devotion to Allah.
A study of the religious texts on the issue is essential. Therefore,
Qur‟anic text, Prophetic Traditions and Qur‟anic exegesis of both
classical and modern scholars would have been used in determining
the correct dress code for Muslim women.
While all research indicates that women dress conservatively, in order
not to attract the attention of the opposite sex. The extent to which a
woman must be covered has not been agreed upon. Even if what has
to be covered is established by scholars, the manner in which this is to
be done and the type of colours and fabric to be used needs further
clarification.
The issue of the female dress code needs to be presented from a
female perspective.
2
Key Terms
Hijab, Islamic Dress Code, Qur‟an, Hadith (Prophetic Tradition)
Islam, Muslim Women, veil, headscarf covering, Tafsir (Qur‟anic
Exegesis), Clothes
3
Acknowledgements
With the name of Allah the Most Beneficent the Most Merciful and
peace and blessings be upon the Prophet Muhammad (S.A.W.). I
would like to express my utmost and sincere gratitude to the following
people, without whom I could not have completed my dissertation.
My supervisor, Dr Ismail Ebrahim Jaffer, for his steadfast
support and valuable advice through every stage of this
dissertation.
My daughter, Miss Yasira Aziz, for all her assistance and
correcting typing errors.
Miss Nasreen Sayed for assisting in collating and gathering
resources for my research.
Miss Parveen Sayed for proof reading my work
My Mother, Mrs Farida Sayed, for taking care of my children
while I worked through my research.
My husband,
Mr
Salim Aziz,
for
his
support
and
encouragement during the stressful and difficult stages of
writing this thesis.
Mr Abdul Majid Khan and Mrs Farzana Cassim for always
being keen to assist in printing my work
4
Declaration
I declare that “Hijab-The Islamic Dress Code : Its historical
development, evidence from sacred sources and views of selected
Muslim Scholars” is my own work and that all the resources that I
have used or quoted have been indicated and acknowledged by means
of complete references.
____________________
Mrs Rookhsana Aziz
(Student No 0668-4130)
________________
Date
5
Table of Contents
System of transliteration
10
Abbreviations
12
Glossary
13
1. CHAPTER ONE: Introduction
16
1.1 Introduction
17
1.2 Motivation
17
1.3 Literature review
19
1.4 Methodology
20
1.5 A brief description of each chapter
1.5.1 Chapter One – Introduction
21
1.5.2 Chapter Two – An Historical Background of hijab
22
1.5.3
Chapter Three – Islamic Dress Code according to Qur‟an
23
1.5.4
Chapter Four – The Dress Code in Prophetic Tradition
24
1.5.5
Chapter Five – View of Muslim Scholars regarding the
Dress Code for Muslims
1.6 Conclusion
25
28
6
2. CHAPTER TWO : An Historical Background of Hijab
29
2.1 Introduction
30
2.2 Evidence of Hijab in the History of Mankind
32
2.2.1 The Hittites
32
2.2.2 The Phoenicians
35
2.2.3 The Ancient Egyptians
38
2.2.4 Pre Historic Greeks and Romans
40
2.3 Seclusion in the Early Islamic Era
43
2.4 The Veil During the Middle Ages
49
2.5 The concept of Hijab in the Nineteenth Century
50
2.6 Observations on the current concepts of Hijab
53
2.6.1 The Taliban in Afghanistan
53
2.6.2 Iran
58
2.6.3 Jerusalem
62
2.6.4 Egypt
64
2.6.5 Saudi Arabia
66
2.6.6 Indonesia
67
2.6.7 South Africa
67
2.7 Conclusion
68
7
3. CHAPTER THREE : The Islamic Dress Code According to Qur’an
70
3.1
Introduction
71
3.2
The concept of Hijab in the Qur‟an
72
3.2.1 Surah 7 verse 46
72
3.2.2 Surah 33 verse 53
74
3.2.3 Surah 38 verse 32
77
3.2.4 Surah 41 verse 5
78
3.2.5 Surah 42 verse 51
80
3.2.6 Surah 17 verse 45 and 46
82
3.2.7 Surah 19 verse 17
86
3.2.8 Surah 83 verse 15
87
3.3
The concept of Khimara in the Qur‟an
3.3.1
Surah 24 verse 31
89
3.4
The word Juyubihinna
91
3.5
The word Khumurihinna
92
3.6 The concept of Jalabibihinna in the Qur‟an
94
3.6.1 Surah 33 verse 59
94
3.7
96
Conclusion
8
CHAPTER FOUR: Dress Code in Prophetic
98
Tradition
99
4.1 Introduction
99
4.2 Length of garment
100
4.3 Wearing of silk
103
4.4 The beard
106
4.5 Shoes
106
4.6 Saffron-dyed clothes
107
4.7 Red clothes
109
4.8 White garments
111
4.9 Wearing gold and silver jewelry
112
4.10 The favourite garment of the Prophet (S.A.W.)
113
4.11 Wearing a turban by Muslim men
114
4.12 Type of cloth to be used
115
4.13 Pride with clothes and imitating others
116
4.14 Wearing the best clothes
117
4.15 How much of the body can be displayed
118
4.16 Men and women imitating each other
120
4.17 Hijab requirements with regard to the hair
121
4.18 The use of henna
123
4.19 The prohibition of men wearing just one garment
124
9
4.20 Conclusion
125
CHAPTER FIVE: Views of Muslim Scholars
126
5.1 Introduction
127
5.2 Views expressed by Islamic Scholars
127
5.3 Conclusion
158
CHAPTER SIX: Conclusion
160
6.1
Introduction
161
6.2
Chapter One - Introduction
162
6.3
Chapter Two - An Historical Background of Hijab
163
6.4
Chapter Three - Islamic Code according to Qur‟an
165
6.5
Chapter Four - Dress Code in Prophetic tradition
165
6.6
Chapter Five – Views of Muslim Scholars
167
6.7
Final Conclusion
169
BIBLIOGRAPHY
170
10
System of Transliteration
The following table shows the system followed in transliterating
Arabic words.
…………………… ء.…………………………‟a
…….…………………………………………… a
……………………………………………….. b
………………………………………………… t
……….……………………………………… th
…….…………………..………………………. j
………………………………………………… h
………………………………………………… kh
…………………………………………………. d
………………………………………………… zh
………………………………………………….. r
…………………………………………………. z
……..…………………………………………… s
……...…………………………………………...sh
………..…………………………………………s
………..………………………………………..dh
………….………………………………………. t
11
…………..……………………………………….zh
……………………………………..……………. „
……………….………………………………… g
………………………………………………… ف..f
…………………….……………….…………….q
………………………………………………….. k
………………………………..………………….l
…………………………………………….………m
……………………………………………….…...n
…………………………………….……………...h
consonant…………………….….….………….…w
long vowel ………………….……………...……u
diphthong ……………….…..……………..……au
consonant ……………..……….……..……..…. y
long vowel …………….…….….………….….. i
diphthong ……………….……..……….………ai
12
Abbreviations
C. E.
Christian Era
A. H. Year after Hijrah
S. A. W. Salallahu Alaihi Wasallam (May peace and blessings be upon him)
S. W. T. Subhanau Wa Ta‟ala (Glory be to Him, Most High)
13
Glossary
Abaya
Black cloak worn by Muslim women
ahadith pl. Hadith. The sayings and actions of the Prophet
(S.A.W.) as recorded and reported by scholars and his
companions
akinna
Covering of something
awrah
The part of the body that should be covered and the
private parts
burqa
Head covering till the hips or lower (Urdu)
chador
Large sheet worn by Iranian women (Persian)
fiqh
Islamic jurisprudence
hadith
Prophetic Traditions, i.e. sayings and actions of the
Prophet (S.A.W.)
hajaba
Hanbali
To conceal, hide, seclude
Islamic school of thought according to the teachings
of
Imam Ahmad Hanbali. The followers are also
called Hanbali
Hibara Burd Green silken shoulder wrap worn by women in public
in Yemen
hibara
Yeminite green cloak
14
hijab
Women‟s veil and a mode of dress adopted by Muslim
women
izar
Waist cloth or pants. Urdu/Pashtun
jaib
Pocket, cavity, bosom hollow
pl. Jilbab. A cloth covering a woman, a garment,
jalabeebuna
dress
jawb
Cutting or split, gap, opening
jilbab
Sheet of cloth a woman draws over her clothes, garments,
dress
juyubihinna
pl. Jaib. Women‟s chest/bust
khimara
Cloth used to cover the head of a woman
khimr
Wine or any substance that intoxicates
khumur
pl. Khimr. Wine or intoxicant
mahram Unmarriageable, someone a woman is mot allowed to
marry; her father, brother, grandfather, uncle, etc
mufassirun Interpreter or translator of the Qur‟an
mulabba
A type of rough, coarse cloth favoured by the
Prophet (S.A.W.)
Ancient Greek dress worn by women. Greek
peplos
shari‟ah
Islamic law based on the Qur‟an and Hadith; and with
the consensus of the Muslim scholars
sitr
Curtain or any drape that divides a room, screen
15
Sunnah
Sayings and
actions of the Prophet (S.A.W.) as
recorded
taahir
Clean; pure; unblemished
tafsir
Interpretation of the Qur‟an
Taliban
Islamic group based in Afghanistan
Ulema‟
Well versed scholars of Islam and various sciences
yudneena
To cast over your body
16
Chapter One
Introduction
17
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
1.1 Introduction
Among Muslims the debate about hijab takes many forms. Some
believe that the veil is a way of liberation in a world that oppresses
women. Others feel that hijab allows women the freedom of
movement while others argue that the veil only provides the
illusion of protection and absolves men the responsibility of
controlling their sexual behaviour. I have selected this topic for my
dissertation as I believe there is a need for much research and
investigation to be done on the aspect of Hijab even though, there
are discussions and debates on this issue currently.
1.2 Motivation
I hope to contribute to the aspect of Hijab in our Muslim
community through this research. As a female, I believe that men
have expressed their views on what women should or should not
wear without considering the women‟s perspective sufficiently.
The views of women have been marginalized or labeled as
liberalist or feminist. Any woman opposing the prescribed hijab
18
laws is seen to have incomplete faith and her opinions are
considered either too radical or rejected as invalid.
The beloved and respected wife of the Prophet (S.A.W.), „Aishah
(R.A.), was regarded as a very honourable lady who had a very
high status amongst the people of Arabia. However, as soon as she
expressed views contrary to society, with regard to how the
murderers of Uthman (R.A.) should be dealt with, her opinions
were opposed and she was regarded as a woman against whom war
should be waged.
I have come across numerous books and articles written by men on
the issue of hijab but found just a handful written by women. Hijab
is an extremely personal issue for women and I believe that, as a
result, women should have the ultimate say in what they should
wear because only they are subjected to the inconveniences or even
conveniences that arise as a result of wearing the hijab. Therefore,
I have selected this topic in order to present a woman‟s perspective
on the aspect of hijab.
19
1.3 Literature Review
The books consulted have been written by both male and female
scholars in order to obtain a more balanced view. I chose to look
more closely into the views of female writers like Fatima Mernissi
and Barbara Stowesser. Veronica Ions‟ book on The World‟s
Mythology provides very useful information on the female
perspective on many historical facts.
A more recent publication by Anthea Rugh called Reveal and
conceal: Dress in contemporary Egypt gives a description of the
lifestyle and dress of modern Egyptian women by describing
specific experiences of females when faced with issues regarding
hijab.
Another interesting writer, Virginia Hooker, shed some light on the
hijab issue for contemporary women in her book Islamic
Perspectives on the new millennium.
Published in 1999, Ruth Roded‟s Women in Islam and the Middle
East sheds light on the issues women are faced with in the Middle
East. Her work is very effective in highlighting the experiences of
Muslim men and women living in the Middle East.
20
The work of Azizah al-Hibri published in 1982, called Women and
Islam, is somewhat extreme in its feminism but is invaluable with
regard to providing an insight into the thoughts of contemporary
Middle Eastern women on the concept of hijab.
These are just a few of the works by women which were consulted.
However, due to the vast number of books written by men on this
topic, I referred to the books of both classical and modern (male)
scholars. Many contrasting views are presented by these writers
and due consideration is given to them.
1.4 Methodology
A qualitative method was used in the study oh Hijab-Islamic Dress
Code. Firstly, a literature review on Hijab, an Islamic Dress code
was undertaken, providing a basis for the study on this aspect.
The basic sources of Islam, the Qur‟an (Divine Script) and Hadith
(Prophetic Tradition) were used as the starting point for the
discussions on Hijab.
21
The Internet was used in order to search for information on the
different dress codes prevalent in different eras and Muslim
Societies. A brief historical background on the dress codes from
the Hittite era to contemporary societies were presented.
Then verses pertaining to the aspect of Hijab in the Qur‟an were
quoted (based on Yusuf Ali‟s translation). In addition, the views
and explications of some readily available translators and
commentators of the Qur‟an were included. The Authentic Hadith
literature was surveyed and a general dress code of Muslims (Male
and Female) was given, This was followed by a discussion on the
views of some known contemporary scholars on Hijab like Doi,
Memissi, Madani, Badawi, Afzalur Rahman, Al-Darsh and others.
Finally, the research ends with a conclusion on the various aspects
discussed in the dissertation.
1.5
A Brief Description of Each Chapter
1.5.1 Chapter One : Introduction
The introductory chapter discusses the motivation, literature
review, methodology and gives a brief description of the
chapters in the dissertation.
22
1.5.2 Chapter Two : An historical background of hijab
Knowing where and how a concept originated helps one to
understand it better and put it into perspective. The chapter on the
historical background of hijab explores the dressing of ancient
civilizations such as the Hittites Phoenicians, Prehistoric Greeks
and Romans and Ancient Egyptians. The information is obtained
from archeological excavations that have yielded paintings and
engravings on utensils and tombstones. An interesting parallel is
found between the dress of ancient civilizations and the
recommendations made by Islam.
Thereafter, the origin of the Islamic concept of hijab during the
time of the Prophet (S.A.W.) is discussed under the heading of
Seclusion in the Early Islamic Era. The first time that hijab laws
were implemented and the circumstances surrounding it are
detailed here using Qur‟anic verses and relevant ahadith
(Prophetic Tradition).
This is followed by a discussion on the use of the veil during the
Middle Ages. Here the findings of the famous explorer, Ibn
Battuta, are used as a basis to identify the different dress codes in
the countries he travelled.
23
In looking at the concept of hijab in the Nineteenth Century, the
chapter looks into the ideas expressed by two prominent female
writers: Barbara Stowasser and Fatima Mernissi who included
their personal experiences regarding the wearing of the veil.
The current concept of hijab is also discussed when looking at
contemporary dress in Afghanistan, Iran, Jerusalem, Egypt, Saudi
Arabia, Indonesia and South Africa. The differences and
similarities of the dress codes in the various regions are discussed
in greater detail here.
Finally, the conclusion sums up the development of the concept of
hijab since the beginning of time through to the modern use of the
term.
1.5.3 Chapter Three : Islamic dress code according to the
Qur’an
This chapter deals with the Qur‟anic concept of hijab. The literal
meaning of the word as it is used in the Qur‟an is examined using
the translations and interpretations of various scholars such as Ibn
24
Kathir, Yusuf Ali, Marmaduke Pickthall, Mohsin Khan, Palmer
and Rodwell.
This chapter mentions the use of the word hijab in eight verses of
the Qur‟an : 7:46, 33:53, 38:32, 41:5, 42:51, 17:45 and 46, 19:17
and 83:15.
The concept of khimara as expressed in Surah 24 verse 31 in the
understanding of hijab is explored in the chapter together with the
concepts of juyubihinna and juyobihinna which appear in the same
verse. Jalabeebuna in Surah 33 verse 59 is examined to clarify the
dress code too.
1.5.4 Chapter Four : The dress code in Prophetic Tradition
This chapter deals with the Prophetic traditions concerning the
dress code of Muslims. The Ahadith relating to the length of the
garment, wearing of silk, the beard, type of shoes, colour of clothes
preferred and type of cloth to be used are quoted from many
different sources.
Then there is a discussion of the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s dislike for
certain aspects of dress like; men and women imitating each other
25
and pride with clothes. This is followed by his (S.A.W.)‟s pleasure
in seeing men and women wearing the best of clothes.
Various aspects of Islamic dress code are discussed, looking at
issues such as the extent the female body can be exposed, hijab
requirements regarding the hair, the use of henna and the Prophet
(S.A.W.)‟s favourite garment.
1.5.5 Chapter five : View of Muslim Scholars regarding the dress
code for Muslims.
This chapter reviews the opinions of various writers and
contemporary scholars on the issue of dress code for Muslims. The
views of Abdul Rahman Doi are explored in detail. He mentions
some Qur‟anic verses and ahadith (Prophetic Tradition) on the
dress code. He then explains that while women must cover their
bodies with a loose outer garment, they do not have to cover their
faces. He further outlines the conduct expected of Muslim women
when appearing in public places such as swimming baths,
shopping malls and even the masjid (place of worship) or mosque.
Fatima Mernissi, a well known modern writer, believes that the
veil is a means of protection for Muslim women in Western society
26
and a means of differentiating Muslim from Non-Muslim women.
Furthermore, Mernissi views the veil which sends a message to the
world expressing that women are vulnerable and defenseless.
However, she advocates that the emergence of women‟s freedom
led to the wearing of the hijab correctly instead of it being imposed
upon on women.
Madani‟s views are expressed in his book Hijab- The Islamic
Commandments of Hijab, wherein he maintains that women should
cover the entire body, including the face, with a separate large
piece of cloth drawn over their clothes. He holds that even though
the verse in the Qur‟an (65:1) refers to the hijab requirements of
the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s wives, it does include all Muslim women.
He further quotes many Prophetic Traditions that specify that a
woman‟s face should also be covered as part of her hijab.
Then the liberal views of South African writer, Vania are
presented, who quotes verses of the Qur‟an to argue that it is
permissible for interaction between men and women providing
there is no fear of committing evil. He then substantiates his
arguments by quoting from the adahith, wherein it mentions
27
situations where men and women interacted with each other on a
purely platonic matter.
Jamal Badawi maintains a woman‟s face and hands need not be
covered, but she needs to wear a loose cloak and cover her hair. He
emphasizes that the dress should not be similar to that of the NonMuslim, neither should express the social status of an individual.
Afzalur Rahman, author of Role of Muslim women in Society,
believes that there are many other things to be considered before
imposing a dress code for women. The dress codes are studied in
detail in this section. Afzalur Rahman does not advocate the idea
that women should cover their faces and he presents many reasons.
On the other hand, the teachings of Syed Mutawalli ad-Darsh
which will be discussed in detail, explains how modern women
should be dressed in order to maintain the dress code. He consults
the works of the four recognized Imams, namely, Hanafi, Shafi‟,
Hanbali and Maliki. Ad-Darsh discusses the dress requirements as
prescribed by each one of these Imams.
28
Finally, the conclusion summarizes all the different suggestions of
the dress code and offers an overall view of what the expected
dress of a Muslim should be.
1.6 Conclusion
The Islamic dress has been debated over the years. Some scholars
believe that it is there for the protection and privacy of women
while others maintain that it is a symbol of a woman‟s relegation to
a private world where they are passive and invisible. According to
Shafi‟ and Hanbali, the entire female body, including the face,
hands and feet must be covered, while the Malikites and Hanafites
allow women to bare their face and hands. The question of whether
or not the face and hands must be veiled is raised at every juncture
and this is what is discussed in this dissertation.
29
Chapter Two
An Historical
background of
Hijab
30
CHAPTER TWO
AN HISTORICAL BACKGROUND OF HIJAB
2.1 Introduction
The study of Hijab will be incomplete without an historical
overview of this aspect. The question arises as to who were the
first people who adorned the hijab and why did they do so ? How
has this evolved over time and what is the current situation ?
Adorning of hijab goes as far back as the time of the creation of
mankind. When Adam (A.S.) and his wife Hawwa‟ (R.A.),
„tasted of the tree [and disobeyed Allah
(S.W.T.), their shameful parts became
manifest to them and they began to sew
together the leaves of the Garden to
cover themselves‟ (Qur‟an 7:22).
Adam (A. S.) and Hawaa‟ (R.A.) used the only material available
to them to conceal their naked bodies. This was an attempt at
making themselves feel less exposed and ignominious. Clearly,
31
from the beginning of time, covering the body has a significance
that goes beyond the visual, physical and aesthetic realm it is
usually seen in.
It is evident that though Allah (S.W.T.) has created mankind
perfectly, He has also created him with a very thin skin as a form
of protection. Human beings need clothes not only for protection
from the environment, but also to give them self-respect and
dignity. An attractive appearance makes one feel proud of oneself
and it is human nature to feel elated when one dresses attractively.
The Qur‟an encourages Muslims to dress in their best attire, but at
the same time cautions them against extravagance. It teaches that
to be a person of good character, who adheres to the rules of
human nature, is much more notable than elaborate adornment.
This is evident in the following verse :
„Oh children of Adam, we have bestowed
raiment on you to cover your shame as
well as an adornment to you. But the
raiment
of
(Qur‟an. 7:26)
righteousness
is
best‟
32
2.2 Evidence of hijab in the history of mankind
Information obtained from archeological discoveries assist us to
determine how ancient civilizations dressed. There is clear
evidence in rock paintings, sculptures, statues and even drawings
on pottery which have been dug up, that people in the ancient
times used some type of clothing that could conform to the concept
of hijab as we know it today.
2.2.1
The Hittites
According to the old testament, the Israelites found several tribes
inhabiting Palestine. One of these tribes was the Hittites.
Archeologists spent hours studying their history attempting to
bring to light the culture, customs and social order of this very
prominent tribe.
In his book „The Hittites‟, Dr Gurney describes the dress of the
king in detail : „he wears a special costume consisting of a long
shawl draped over one arm and under another, with the end
hanging down freely over the front of his body; his headdress is
apparently a close fitting cap and he carries a long crook …‟
(Gurney, O. R. 1961. 66).
33
In his study of the medium of exchange amongst the Hittites, Dr
Gurney decodes the Law Code that contains a list of prices. Some
of the garments listed here include a head-band 1 shekel, a large
linen cloth for 5 shekels and a woolen garment for 40 shekels.
(Gurney, O. R. 1961:76)
Even in the army, the Hittites wore „long gown with short sleeves‟
(Gurney,O.R. 1961:106). Egyptian sculptures show Hittite warriors
wearing long robes armed with long spears.
In Mesopotamia (3500-3600 B. C.), women used fur shawls on
their heads and wore loose and comfortable tunics or dresses which
covered their legs. The soldiers also wore tunics, which were
shorter and exposed their legs, and a headgear like a spiked turban,
as a mark of recognition. A portrait of the famous King Sargon II
shows him wearing the spiked turban with a neatly trimmed beard
(Gurney, O.R. 1961:172).
Regarding the dress of the Hittite gods, Gurney says: „The dress of
the gods is the short belted tunic (sometimes also a cloak) with
upturned shoes or moccasins and fluted conical headdress, while
the goddesses wear a long pleated skirt, loose upper garment
34
draping the arm, similar upturned shoes, and a kind of „mural
crown‟; there is no veil. Both sexes wear earrings and bracelets‟
(Gurney,O.R. 1961:199). This costume represented the most
fashionable attire of the time. He claims that the respective
headdresses had a religious significance.
Egyptian portraits reveal a variety of hair fashions. Generally, hair
was uncut and sometimes held into place with a headband. Some
portraits show the forehead shaved. „All Hittites on the Egyptian
monuments are clean shaven except those who are in reality Syrian
allies‟ (Gurney,O.R. 1961:213). The weather god, however, is
represented by a bearded figure. „…later monuments show that the
fashion of wearing a beard spread from Syria to the whole of
Hittite Anatolia‟ (Gurney,O.R. 1961:214).
Due to their military genius, political organization, legislation and
administration of justice, the Hittites are remarkable ancestors of
modern day Arabs. There is much work to be done in excavations
and explorations to discover more about this wonderful nation.
However, it is clear that the custom of wearing long, loose-fitting
and flowing garments together with a religiously significant
headdress by both men and women was already in place among the
35
Hittites. The trend of growing a beard was adopted later, resulting
in a concept of hijab that is present today.
2.2.2 The Phoenicians
The Canaanites and the Phoenicians share a close history but it was
only after the Bronze Age that the Phoenicians broke away to
become a tribe of their own. This is according to Donald Harden,
author of the book „The Phoenicians‟ who has based his
observations on French excavators of Babylos and Ugarit
(Harden,D. 1962:5).
This great tribe excelled as explorers, colonizers, traders and
manufacturers. The fact that they were also mighty warriors gets
obscured when one considers their most significant contribution to
the world: the alphabet. All alphabetic scripts, including IndoEuropean and Semitic languages, adopted this method.
Focusing on the dress of these remarkable people, Harden
(1962:103) describes Silius Italicus, a priest in Melqart at Gades,
as „wearing a cap and being clad in a simple close-fitting
ungirdled tunic‟. He also gives a detailed description of other
priests from statues found in Carthage. „On one, a bearded priest
36
with a head-scarf, a stole over his left shoulder and a transparent
linen toga‟ (Harden,D. 1962:103).
In another description, Harden mention a priestly figure carved out
on a coffin found on a hill in Ste Monique : „… he wears a headband and stole, but his robe is fuller and it seems to show some
Greek influence in its cut. The stele of Baalyaton in Copenhagen,
found in Phoenicia, shows a priest similarly dressed…..‟ (Harden,
D. 1962:103).
After examining coffins found in Carthage around the fourth
century, Harden (1962:113) describes the dress of a priestess as
„ … a scarf on her head, clad in a flowing peplos, … above her
head-scarf is a hawk‟s head, showing Egyptian influence through
the costume and the general style is Hellenic‟.
On a coffin from Babylos, there is a carving of a ruler who is
bearded. „Together with other figures, he is depicted seated on a
throne surrounded by bearded men wearing tunics with girdles‟
(Harden, D. 1962:182)
37
There are many bronze artifacts, such as jugs, razors, combs and
figurines found that have pictures engraved on them. Many of
them depict Phoenicians as bearded with, sometimes, a high
conical headdress. A mirror handle found in a tomb on a hill in
Juno „takes the form of a standing goddess in a long decorated
girdled robe which reaches the feet‟ (Harden,D.1962:206).
Another bronze figurine found in Aleppo, Syria, shows a woman
with a low headdress and her long hair in plaits. She wears a
tasseled girdle over a long loose gown.
Clearly, the Phoenicians were a people who favoured wearing
loose garments with some kind of headdress for both males and
females. Although there are figurines and carvings that depict
naked or semi-naked women, these are believed to be slaves or
servants. Those of a higher status, such as gods, priests or leaders
are shown as people dressed in long, loose-fitting tunics with a
specific headdress. In other words, being dressed in a certain way
signified a higher position in society. This is the very same idea
that Islam propagates. Men and women must be dressed
respectably so that they will be recognized as to who they are and
as a result be respected for it.
38
2.2.3 The Ancient Egyptians
Ancient Egypt was a land of abundance. The most salient feature
of Egyptian history is their effort to preserve life after death. This
resulted in a rich diversity of ancient artifacts that have been
discovered by modern day archeologists which help to tell the
story of Ancient Egypt.
During Egyptian rituals, gods and kings were treated alike. The
Pharaoh was ranked the highest in the priesthood and he was
succeeded by his son. In her book „The World‟s Mythology in
Colour‟, Veronica Ions, gives a precise evaluation of the events in
Ancient Egypt by studying thousands of archeological finds.
In Ancient Egypt (3000-300 C.E.), King Mycinerius had a beard
and Queen Nemes always wore an elaborately bejeweled
headdress. Most women covered their hair with a wig, while the
female servant wore tight-fitting sheath dresses. The aristocratic
women wore loose-fitting heavily adorned long dresses with a
matching headdress.
Isis, Queen of the goddesses, is carved out on a wall in a temple at
Abyolos. In it, she is wearing an elaborate feather headdress above
39
which are cow‟s horns surrounding a solar disc (Ions,V. 1974:47).
Another goddess, Mayet, the goddess of justice and truth, was
identified by a large ostrich feather on her headdress. Her
headdress fully covered her hair but left her bosom, neck and ears
exposed.
A wall engraving, from the tomb of Pennut in Nubia, depicts
attendants at a burial site. Women were hired at funerals to mimic
the mourning of Isis. These women were dressed in long loosefitting dresses with long to short sleeves. The hair was fully
covered but the covering fell behind their backs, exposing their
necks and ears. These were not women of royalty nor of religious
significance and their dress identify them as professional mourners
(Ions,V. 1974:68).
Although the Egyptian dress did not in all cases depict the wearing
of long robes, it was customary to cover the hair with a type of
covering that flows down to the back. This is similar to the khumur
referred to in the Qur‟an (24:31). Arab women wore a garment, at
the advent of Islam that covered the hair but left the neck and ears
exposed. Thus, the khumur can be traced back to the Ancient
Egyptians.
40
2.2.4 Pre-historic Greeks and Romans
Stubbings, in his book „The World of Archaeology: Prehistoric
Greece‟, based his observations on the remains and ruins in Troy,
Mycenae and Tiryns. He draws a great deal of information from
the work of Heinrich Schliemann. He describes an elaborate
headdress discovered by Schliemann in Troy. The headdress is
made out of old gold and covers the front of the head and forehead
(Stubbings,F. 1972: 21).
Greek goddess statues show long dresses made out of soft flowing
fabric. The bronze statuette of Core, carefree daughter of the
fertility goddess Demeter, shows her wearing a beautifully pleated
garment over a thin dress. On her head, she has a covering that
allows her hair to flow loosely over her shoulders but covers her
head in front (Ions,V. 1974:101).
A terracotta statuette of Roman god, The Apollo of Veii, shows
him wearing a softly pleated robe that falls to his knees
(Ions,V.1974:128). Some gods, like Serapis, were bearded with
long hair. Serapis wore a long, narrow crown that symbolized his
status as a god of fertility and riches.
41
Many Roman artefacts depict Romans with no clothes at all.
However, there may be a soft cloth draped over the body or a
garment covering the lower half of the body present in artwork.
This shows the near-eastern tribes followed the trend of Greeks
and Romans by moving away from covering the body. Their lack
of modesty in their early statues and art is clearly evident. This is
due to their separation from the near-eastern tribes both physically
and traditionally.
During the ancient Roman rule ( 800-400 B. C.), men wore a
soft fur hat that covered their hair and ears (http://en.Wikip
edia.org/wiki/ Clothing_in_ancient_Rome#Women.27s_clothing).
Although many ladies sported elaborate hairstyles hairstyles with
leaves and hairnets, they also used a stola which was a large
soft fabric that was draped over the head. Sometimes, they
wore a palla or a wrap over their stolas which had to be
fastened in place with specially made fibulae bones (http://en.wiki
pedia.org/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Rome#Womn.27s_ clothing).
42
Initially these were colourless dull garments. Later they became
more colourful and attractive. A Roman bride wore a veil on
her head that was decorated with wreaths of flowers and then
she was enveloped in an outer palla. Women at the wedding
wore
their
increasingly elaborate
and
embellished
stolas
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_in_ancientRome#Womn.27
s_ clothing).
Other evidence of hijab can be found in many other cultures
but the practice of covering the face and seclusion seems to
have first appeared in Classical Greece around 300 B. C.
(http://www.bible-researcher.com/headcove rings3.html). It was
also prevalent during the Byzantine rule in Persia. Women of the
aristocracy were not expected to mingle with the common
folk and if they had to go out , they had to dress in such a
way that they would not be recognized.
Early coins and recorded civil laws of those times provide
evidence that
women,
wore
in
Greaco-Roman
head
culture,
both
men
and
coverings in religious contexts
(http://www.bible-researcher.com/ headcoverings3.html).
43
In the Near East, Assyrian kings introduced the seclusion of
women and the veil in their royal harems. Prostitutes and
slaves were not allowed to adorn the veil as this was a
punishable offence if they did. The urban classes were veiled
throughout history, whereas the rural women did not veil; as
veiling was a sign that her family was affluent and enabled
her to go into seclusion and refrain from working outside
(http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_Culture/T
he-Ancient-World-Mesopotamia/Veilshtml)
2.3
Seclusion in the early Islamic Era
The beginning of seclusion in Islam can be traced to the
occasion of the Prophet (S. A. W.)‟s marriage to Zainab bint
Harsh ( R.A.) in
the year 5 A. H. The revelation received by
Muhammad (S.A.W.) on that specific night is a verse of the
Qur‟an that is often referred to as the „Hijab‟ verse. This
verse provides the first guideline regarding the separation of
the Prophet‟s wives from the rest of the community and their
seclusion.
44
„Oh you who believe! Enter not the
Prophet‟s houses until leave is given
you for a meal ( and then) not (so
early as) to wait for its preparation but
when you are invited, enter: and when
you have taken your meal, disperse,
without
seeking
familiar
talk.
Such(behaviour) annoys the Prophet: he
is ashamed to dismiss you, but God is not
ashamed (to tell you) the truth.
And when you ask (his ladies) for
anything you want asks them before a
screen: that makes for greater purity for
your hearts and for theirs.
Nor is it right for you that you should
annoy God‟s Apostle or that you should
marry his widows after him at any time.
Truly such a thing is in God‟s sight an
enormity‟ (Qur‟an. 33:53)
45
The above verse presents the first guideline on the etiquettes
and
manners
which
Muslims
must
display
before
the
Prophet(S.A.W.) in his home and in society. According
to
Moroccan scholar, Fatima Mernissi, this verse was originally
revealed regarding the separation of two men and not
between a man and a woman. It protected the privacy of the
Prophet (S. A. W.) and his new bride (Mernissi,F. 1991:86).
Anas ibn Malik who was present, reports that the Prophet
(S.A.W.) was just married and was unable to get rid of a
group of guests, who overstayed their welcome. When the
Prophet ( S. A. W. ) entered his marriage chamber, „ he placed one
foot in the room and kept the other outside. It was in this position
that he let a sitr (curtain) fall between himself and me and the
verse of hijab descended at that moment‟ (Mernissi,F. 1991:87).
Mernissi, without elaborating further in this context, after
introducing it, goes on to explain the three different dimensions of
hijab:
The first being the root word “Hajaba” meaning “to hide”.
46
The second dimension is more spatial: to separate or mark a
border.
The third dimension is ethical: belonging to the realm of the
forbidden, that is, „a space hidden by a hijab is a forbidden
space‟ (Mernissi, F. 1991:93).
After the revelation of this verse, the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s wives
excluded themselves from the communal affairs of Medina. By
separating the chambers of the wives of the Prophet(S. A. W.)
from the mosque itself, it gave more privacy and comfort for
the elite females of Islam. This was done by means of a single
curtain, which set the boundaries of the Prophet (S. A. W.)‟s public
and private life. While the Qur‟an
here refers to hijab as a
physical curtain, partition or veil, the concept of hijab has
evolved in hadith literature to imply the concrete and the
abstract.
Soon after the revelation of the „Hijab‟ verse, the following
verse was revealed :
“Oh Prophet! Tell thy wives and
daughters and the believing women,
47
that they
should
cast
their
outer
garments over their persons. That is
most convenient, that they should be
known (as such) and not molested. And
God is Oft-Forgiving, Most Merciful”
(Qur‟an. 33:59)
According to Stowasser, (1994:84) there was a slight variation in
legislation on the form of hijab mentioned in the former
verse (33:53). It dealt with women coming out of their houses
and not remaining secluded, and furthermore, it included all
Muslim women and was not only restricted and confined to the
Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s wives.
After the revelation of this verse the dress code became apparent.
All the women dressed very modestly. The traditional scarf
( Khumur) which was previously used to only cover their hair
was now used to cover their bosoms as well.
As Islam expanded to the Byzantine empire, Muslims adopted
many of their cultural and traditional concepts. (Stowasser,B.
48
1994:92) believes that this was the inception of „veiling and
seclusion of women, at least among the upper and uppermiddle classes‟. She further alleges, that although very little is
known about the various stages through which hijab evolved in
Muslim society, it is widely acknowledged that the adorning of
the veil became compulsory during the first centuries after
the expansion of Islam, beyond the borders of Arabia and
prior to the establishment of the „Abbasid Dynasty.
However, Kaukab Siddique, argues that women did not
conceal themselves during the Prophet (S. A. W.)‟s time nor
during the era of the four Righteous Khalifah (caliphs). He
presents the example of Umme -Hakim, wife of Khalid ibn
Al-Saeed, that she participated in the Battle of Marj As-Safar
in 14 A. H. and killed seven Romans. If she adorned the veil,
she would not have been able to accomplish this feat.
Siddiqui states that , „ These women are never mentioned as
living secluded lives or covering their faces with a veil‟
(Siddique,K. 1990:52). He
mentions
further
that
Muslim
women from the time of the Prophet (S. A. W.) until 200 A. H.,
wore a head covering which did not cover their faces. It was
49
only after two centuries that the veil was worn more regularly,
as a status symbol, in the Muslim society (Siddique,K. 1990:55).
2.4
The veil during the Middle Ages
The adorning of the veil became more common during the
10th century. Many laws were passed emphasizing the importance
of veiling. The Mamluks in Egypt issued many decrees that
encouraged
veiling
and
seclusion.When
Ibn
Battuta, the
famous Arab explorer, while travelling through Turkey in the
14th century was surprised to see that the Turkish women
were unveiled. The elite ladies and merchants‟ wives did not
cover their faces (Mernissi,F.1991 :190).
Mernissi accuses the „Abbasid dynasty of imposing the hijab
on women. This period, referred to as the „Golden Age‟
during the 8th and 9th centuries, witnessed the implementation of
stricter laws regarding the seclusion and veiling of Arab Muslim
women. „The Arab woman was completely marginalized. She had
lost all her freedom and pride. Then she began to be treated with
contempt. She was imprisoned behind locked doors and windows‟
(Mernissi,F. 1991:195).
50
2.5
The Concept of Hijab in the Nineteenth Century
During the latter half of the nineteenth century , a great
number of scholars, reformers and liberals denounced women‟s
seclusion and veiling.
Stowasser (1994:127) mentions that prominent amongst these
scholars was Qasim Amin, who in 1899, wrote the book
called “The Emancipation of Women”. He
called for the re-
interpretation of the Qur‟anic laws pertaining to divorce,
polygamy and wearing of the veil. He argues that many of
the practices present in Muslim societies were contrary to
Qur‟anic injunctions and emanated from the customs of
people who became Muslims in the different regions. He
alleges that hijab is „the true reason for the ignorance,
superstition, obesity , anemia and premature aging of the
Muslim woman‟ (Stowasser,B. 1994:127).
Furthermore, Qasim Amin „insisted as much on the woman‟s
right to mobility outside the home as he did on the adoption
of shar‟ia Islamic garb, which would leave the woman‟s face
and hands uncovered‟ (Stowasser,B. 1994:127). Needless to say,
51
his remarks led to more aggressive and critical debates on this
issue. This, in turn, created awareness among Muslims and
they started thinking and employing constructive judgements
in accordance with the Qur‟an.
In 1923, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, leader of Turkey, denounced
the adorning of the veil. He stated that it was demeaning and
a hindrance to a civilized nation, but he did not outlaw it
(Mernissi,F. 1991:95). Thereafter, Reza Shah Pahlevi of Iran
instituted a total ban on the veil in an effort to modernize
society. Due to the suddenness of his decree, most women
were too afraid to adopt it. Thus, they stayed within the
home - deeper in seclusion - out of fear of having the veil
removed
forcefully
by
the
police
and
governmental
enforcement.
Mernissi recalls the opposition which she experienced at
home from her own parents, when she replaced her heavy
traditional veil with a smaller triangular piece of silk chiffon.
Soon
the
small
scarf
became
fashionable
and
Nationalist‟s wives wore it (Stowasser,B. 1994: 127).
all
the
52
In 1967, after Egypt‟s loss to Israel in the six-day-war, there
was an asserted effort to apply Islamic laws, which had been
abandoned. Modernization was construed
wearing
the
hijab
symbolized
negatively, while
„superiority‟
and
„piety‟.
(Stowasser,B. 1994.112).
Al-Mawdudi interpreted the injunctions on hijab (Qur‟an 33:33
and 33:53), as not specifically addressing the Prophet (S. A.
W.)‟s wives, but that it included all Muslim women. He infers
from the verse (Q33:59) that the woman‟s Islamic dress must
include the face veil and gloves. He claims that „though the
veil has not been specified in the Qur‟an, it is Quranic in
spirit‟ (Stowasser,B. 1994:128). Faced
passionate view, in contrast with
with
Al-Mawdudi‟s
Amin‟s call for women to
discard the veil, the contemporary Muslim woman is placed in
a dilemma. Stowasser suggests that a woman‟s best hijab is
still her home, but in extenuating circumstances, she may be
allowed to go out to work (Stowasser, B. 1994:130).
53
2.6 Observations on current concepts of hijab
Today, with the renewed interest in reviving or creating
Islamic movements, women have continued adorning the hijab
throughout the world. However, this issue still remains a point
of debate within various groups. Some liberal groups, like the
Woman‟s Action Forum (W.A.F.) in Pakistan does not allow
the imposition of the dress code on women, while the more
conservative women‟s groups insist on adorning the hijab.
Women who do not comply are stigmatized. Below is a brief
discussion on the issue in various countries in the world.
2.6.1 The Taliban in Afghanistan
The Taliban, drawn from the Pashtun ethnic group implements an
extreme interpretation of Shari‟ah. Ahmed Rashid, author of the
book „Taliban: The story of the Afghan warlords‟, says : „„The
Taliban had closed down all girls‟ schools and women were rarely
permitted to venture out of their homes even for shopping‟
(Rashid,A.2002:2).He describes an interview in 1997 with Maulvi
Qalamuddin who runs the Department of Religious Observances,
„…..he had just issued new regulations which banned women from
wearing high heels, making a noise with their shoes while they
54
walked or wearing make-up. Stylish dress and decoration of
women in hospitals is forbidden. Women are duty bound to behave
with dignity….‟ (Rashid,A. 2002:104).
Women are not allowed to work in any field except as medical
personnel. The women that are working had to organize their own
private transport to and from the work place. The prohibition of
women in the work environment, placed a great strain on the
education system in Afghanistan. Most of the teachers were
women and with them not being allowed to teach, education came
to a standstill. According to Maulvi Qalamuddin, “… there are no
provisions for separate transport, separate school buildings and
facilities to educate women. Women must be completely segregated
from men. And within us we have those men who cannot behave
properly with women” (Rashid,A. 2001:106).
It seems, that the motive of the Taliban for segregating men and
women, is that of the safety and protection of women and not their
oppression. Despite media reports, that when the Taliban took over
Kabul, the police beat men for not having long enough beards and
women for not covering themselves up properly. Maulvi
55
Qalamuddin says that they were not beaten but merely warned to
keep within the restrictions. „We advise our staff not to beat people
in the streets. We only advise people how to behave according to
shari‟ah‟ (Rashid,A. 2001:106).
Before the Taliban took over Khandahar it used to be a place
where women copied the latest fashion trends from Iran and forty
percent of the women worked. „Women with even a smattering of
education and a job, exchanged traditional clothes for skirts, high
heels and make up. They went to movies, played sport and danced
and sang at weddings‟ (Rashid,A. 2001:110). Over the years, the
Taliban have become stricter in implementing their rules regarding
the seclusion of women. The educated women, therefore, left
Afghanistan and sought employment in other countries.
The Taliban ordered tailors not to sew clothes for female clients.
Fashion magazines were destroyed, movies and television were
banned and the singing and dancing at weddings were forbidden.
In 1996, after the capture of Kabul, they released a decree relating
to women, which was announced by the General Presidency of
56
Amr Bil Maruf and Nai Az Munkar (Religious Police), some of the
points made are as follows :
Women should not step outside their homes.
Women should not attract the attention of men.
If women need to go out for the purpose of education or
social services, they are to cover themselves up
completely.
Elder family members are responsible for ensuring that
the laws are abided to by the women.
Female patients must be seen to by female medical staff.
During the examination, both the male doctor and the
female patient must be fully veiled. Only the affected part
may be exposed.
Female doctors must dress simply with no cosmetics or
make-up.
No discussion between male and female doctors is
allowed. If there may be an urgent need then both male
and female must be covered in full hijab.
57
No taxi is allowed to pick up a lady not wearing a plain
black burqa, even the Iranian burqa is not allowed
(Rashid,A. 2001:218).
John Weaver, in his book „Inside Afghanistan‟, describes the dress
of Afghan men : „The traditional Afghan clothing for men consists
of a very loose pants made from light cloth – similar to what we
call a pajama bottom in the States. The waist of the pants is more
that twice the size of the wearers midsection, but the fabric is
gathered up and held up by a drawstring. Over these pants, men
wear a loose – fitting pullover shirt with very long tails front and
back. These look a little like linen night shirts, but the sides are
sewn in an eye-pleasing arch, rather than a slit from bottom to
waist‟ (Weaver,J. 1982:56).
Men also wear a light wrap over their shoulders which can be used
to shield the face. They also wear a cap made out of heavy wool
with a flat top rolled up at the sides. These hats denote the tribal
heritage of a man depending on the shape and colour. Sometimes,
a turban is wrapped around this hat, creating the well known
headdress worn in the Middle East for many centuries.
58
The Taliban have introduced many restrictions regarding women
and their dress. Except for enforcing the long beard and the
shortening of the pants, they have left men‟s clothing largely as it
has been for the past centuries.
The extreme measures implemented for women have been justified
as being a requirement of Shari‟ah. Unfortunately, because
discussion on these issues is not entertained, women in
Afghanistan are being oppressed and discriminated against, instead
of being valued and emancipated as originally intended by Islam.
2.6.2 Iran
Iran, a Middle Eastern country, has followed a relatively modern
mode of dressing. In the past it allowed women to go about
unveiled in fashionable clothing that even included skirts that
revealed the legs. In contrast, Iran is very different from Saudi
Arabia. Hijab is enforced on women according to the less
strict Wahabi school. Women are allowed to go about more
freely provided they are dressed modestly. The head and hair
must be covered with a loose outer covering or cloak that covers
the body to mid-calf.
59
The more conservative women wear a chador which comprises a
large loose black sheet which is held in place by hand. Other
women and school girls prefer a large hood that covers the head
and shoulders which is worn with a long shapeless coat. More
fashionable ladies also wear colourful scarves with patterns on
them.(http://www.bootsnall.com/articles/99-05/dresscodeiniran.
html).
In the villages, farmers wear mostly European dress. „The native
costume of cotton shirt, baggy black or blue cotton trousers and a
long blue cotton coat is generally worn. The women wear black
trousers which are gathered at the ankles, a skirt and a length of
cotton piece goods draped around the body and over the head so
that it serves both as a head covering and a veil, although the
village women were never closely veiled as were the women of the
towns‟ (Wilber,D.N. 1976:56).
From the pictures in Wilber‟s book „Iran : past and present‟, we
see Iranian village women dressed with loose – fitting garments
with some sort of cloth covering the head. This does not
necessarily cover all the hair but is large enough to cover the whole
body. In some cases, when women are threshing wheat, they wear
60
a short skirt with long boots that fully cover the legs (Wilber,D.N.
1976:146).
Women in Iran wear lots of jewellery which includes strings of
gold and silver coins. These and other items such as weapons and
horses, signify the wealth of the family and are a source of pride
for Iranians.
In 1935, the wife of Reza Shah, ruler of Iran at that time, appeared
in public without a veil (Amirsadeghi, H.2009.50). This was a bold
step for women who up to this time had to be fully veiled in public.
It was also an action that was responsible for a forceful movement
for the abolition of the veil. Later, pictures of the Empress of Iran,
on a visit to China accompanied by the Prime Minister, show her
wearing a knee-length dress that revealed her legs. Her head is bare
with a neat modern hairstyle (Amirsadeghi, H. 2009. 177). There is
no sign of the veil. In fact she appears to be a very modern
Western woman, with no sign of Middle Eastern tradition in her
dress.
61
According to Amirsadeghi, Professor Mortaza Motheri, a most
respected modern scholar in Iran, has „ defended in two books, the
veiling of women, but points out that it neither requires face or
hands to be covered, nor does it prevent women from participating
in public life‟ (Amirsadeghi, H.2009. 189).
There is a strong trend towards the emancipation of women in Iran
because of its favouring of Western ideas. There has been
increasing public education for girls since the 1920‟s, state
pressure for the unveiling of women since 1928 and even the
creation of cabinet posts for women in parliament in 1976
(Amirsadeghi, H. 2009.193).
Women‟s organizations provide literacy courses, vocational
training as well as legal and family planning council. They are
supported by the Ulema and help women to function in a society
that is very quickly becoming modern, yet trying to avoid being
Western.
62
2.6.3 Jerusalem
Paul Johnson in his book „Civilizations of the Holy Land‟ quotes a
decree that outlines how Jews had to dress in order to be identified.
„Speak unto the Children of Israel and bid them to make a tassel
on the corners of their garments throughout their generations and
to put it on a twined cord of blue‟ (Johnson,P. 1979:64).
Eventually certain trademarks of appearance became identified as
Jewish. These clothing rituals became a sign of the level of piety of
a person. This led to the remark by Jesus in Mathew 23:5, „They
make broad their phylacteries and enlarge the boarders of their
garments‟ (Johnson,P. 1979:65).
The highest in rank of piety was occupied by the High Priest of
Jerusalem. His dress included a very „elaborate multi–coloured
sash over an embroidered tunic with a bejewelled breastplate. The
Jewels on the breastplate according to Midrash tradition
corresponded to the sons of Jacob : Ruben (red), Simeon (green),
Levi(white, black and red), Jardah (azure), Saachar (black), Josef
(black) and Benjamin ( all 12 colours). The most complicated item
was the head gear – a linen coronet with a muslin headdress over
it, then a blue headdress embroidered in gold, then a gold crown
63
with a gold plate with the name of God which was fixed to the High
Priest‟s forehead‟ (Johnson,P.1979:65).
Jerusalem is a city of three religions and the districts in the Old
City are separated by religious faith and race. In modern day
Jerusalem, Muslim men still wear their traditional long robes and
well known embroidered black and white or red and white
chequered scarves secured with a black band. Most young men
wear a pants and shirt with a suit jacket. They do not wear any
headdress even during prayers.
Women wear long colourful dresses with a small scarf covering the
hair. Their feet are always covered with socks and either sandals or
shoes. There is no face covering or veil in the Palestinian Muslim
community. Women go out and work freely provided they are
dressed conservatively (Raffin,P.1991:16).
Amongst the Christians in Jerusalem, women cover their heads and
wear conservative clothing. In her book called „Inside Jerusalem‟,
Patrizia Raffin shows wonderful pictures of Ethiopians carrying a
wooden cross during a procession through the Old City. Most of
64
these ladies have a white scarf on their heads while the men wear
suits and ties (Raffin,P.1991:56).
Jewish women in Israel are very Western in their dress. However,
during religious prayers and ceremonies, they are required to cover
their hair. Women soldiers are a common sight in Jerusalem. They
wear the military uniform that men wear. There is no distinction
between the uniforms except a small cap worn by ladies. „Only
Arabs and the ultra-Orthodox, together with some religious girls
are exempt‟ (Raffin,P.1991: 46).
2.6.4.
Egypt
Andrea
Rugh, in her book „Reveal and conceal : Dress in
contemporary Egypt‟ differentiates between „fundamentalists‟
and
„pious‟
styles
of
dress
in
Egypt. Both styles can
accommodate grades of pious commitment. The final stage being
the covering of the entire face and the wearing of gloves.
The „fundamental‟ style of dressing serves to distinguish
between educated and uneducated classes. The lower-class
Egyptian women still wear folk dresses (Rugh,A. 1986:45).
65
The most obvious recent revival of Islamic awareness can be seen
in the current trend towards Islamic dress especially amongst the
women. Previous generations of women who preferred to be called
modern and westernised are now seeing their granddaughters
adorning longer dresses and covering their hair. This trend, which
began about twenty years ago, has developed to such an extent that
it has become overwhelmingly universal in its application
(http://www.wluml.org).
Attempts at banning the face veil have been made as recently as
2004 and 2007 at the American University in Cairo and the
Helwan University. (http://www.islamfortoday.com/women.htm)
Mohamed Tantawi, a leading Islamic scholar in Egypt and head of
Al-Azhar University, issued an order, in 2009 that the face veil
was not allowed in the classroom and during examinations because
it “is a cultural tradition without Islamic importance”. However,
after protests from human rights and Islamist groups led to it being
overturned later (http://www. islamfortoday.com/women.htm).
66
2.6.5 Saudi Arabia
In Saudi Arabia, women follow the Hanbali school of
shari‟ah which adopts a very conservative approach
that
forces women to cover their entire face. Women are not
permitted to go out of the house without an approved male
companion
nor
are
they
allowed
to
drive
their
own
cars.(http://wiki.answ
ers.com/Q/What_is_the_national_dress_of_saudi_ arab)
Females who have reached puberty, wear a loose unadorned black
robe that covers the feet, called an abaya. Although Saudi women
wear a veil that covers the face, other ladies including Arabs from
other countries may leave their faces open. Some women adopt the
hijab to such an extent that the cover every part of the body even
the hands and feet. Western women in Saudi Arabia have to wear
the abaya when appearing in public (http://wiki.answers.
com/Q/What_is_the_national_ dress_of_saudi_arab).
67
2.6.6 Indonesia
In Indonesia, women wear sarongs, a full length wrap around
skirt with a kebeya, a tight, low-cut, long sleeved blouse.
Some ladies also wear a seledong, a long cloth draped over
the shoulder which is sometimes used to carry babies or objects
(http://www.expat.or.id/info/kebayatraditional dress.html)
The government is very strict in enforcing hijab laws. Any woman
caught violating the dress code is forced to put on “government
issued full length skirts or long pants” (http://www.radiance
weekly.com/179/4468/FORT-HOOD-SHOOT-OUT-The-PriceUS-is-Paying-for-Global-War/2009-11-15/Muslim-World/StoryDetail/DRESS-CODE-IN-INDONESIA.html)
2.6.7
South Africa
Traditional South African women favour a kaftan or Boubou which
is an adaptation of the kaftan worn by West African men. It is
said that African traditional wear has been inherited from ancient
Egypt. The same embroidery with mirrors and charms found on
clothing worn by Egyptian Queen Cleopatra are used, with a
68
modern touch, in South Africa today (http://www.squidoo.com
/Traditionalafricanwearforwomen?utm_campaign=directdiscovery
&utm_medium=sidebar&utm_source=speechryter).
Even though fabrics may be modern, the colours and symbols used
in the prints signify power, love and protection to the wearer in
much the same way as it did in Ancient Africa. Modern royal
queens wear a more stylish dress which shows the influence of the
traditional white voortekker dress(http://www.squidoo.com/
Traditionalafricanwearforwomen?utm_campaign=directdiscovery
&utm_medium=sidebar&utm_source=speechryter).
2.7
Conclusion
The concept of hijab has evolved in the Muslim world, from
being a societal segregation as stipulated in the Qur‟an, to a
type of dress that bears testimony to the morality and
cultural authenticity of a woman performing new duties in
modern society.
69
The
Muslim woman does not need to live up to Western
definitions of beauty because her main goal is to attain spiritual
beauty so that she can prove herself and attain recognition in
society, through her actions and accomplishments instead of her
looks.
After many decades of swinging between the two extremes of
total segregation and complete liberation, women today realise the
true significance of hijab and are reclaiming their true identity. The
trend towards wearing the hijab today signifies the awakening of
Islamic culture and identity. It is the recognition of women as
significant contributors to society and their acceptance into
positions of leadership (http://www. squidoo.com/Traditional
africanwearforwomen?utm_campaign=directdiscovery&utm_medi
um=sidebar&utm_source=speechryter).
70
Chapter Three
The Islamic Dress
Code According to
the Qu‟ran
71
CHAPTER THREE
THE ISLAMIC DRESS CODE ACCORDING TO THE
QUR’AN
3.1 Introduction
Here, a detailed analysis of the concept of Hijab in the
Qur‟an is provided.. Concepts
like
Khumur,
Jalabeeb,
Juyubihinna, Yudneena and Akinnah are discussed in order to
truly comprehend the proper dress code of Islam. Various
Qur‟anic translations and commentaries are used to explain the
above concepts and the context in which they are utilized.
The discussion of the dress code of Muslims is based in the
relevant Quranic verses mentioned below with further explanation
from Ibn Kathir, Yusuf Ali, Mohsin Khan and Marmaduke
Pickthall. The translations of E. H. Palmer and J. M. Rodwell have
also been included.
72
3.2 The concept of Hijab in the Qur’an
According to Hans Wehr‟s “A dictionary of modern written
Arabic”, the word made up of the root letters H-J-B means „to veil,
cover, screen or form a separation‟ (Wehr,H. 1976:156). This root
word forms the basis of eight similar words in the Qur‟an,
which will
be
discussed here
together
with
meaning.
3.2.1 Surah 7 verse 46
„Between them shall be a hijab and
on the Heights will be men who
know everyone by his marks. They
will call out to the Companions of
the Garden “ Peace be upon you.”
They will not have entered but they
will
have
1994:352).
an
assurance‟ (Ali,Y.
the implied
73
Ibn Kathir gives the meaning as „screen‟(Ibn Kathir, 2000:vol
2,68). The other translators give the meaning if Hijabun as „veil‟
(Ali,Y.1946:353, Palmer,A.2007:143 and Pickthall,M. 1989:125)
„barrier screen‟ (Khan,M.1996:298) and „partition‟ (http://www.
sacred-texts.com/isl/sbe06/index.htm).
In this case, the word Hijabun, is used to describe a definite
physical separation between the dwellers of Heaven and Hell.
It does not have any thing to do with what one wears,
instead,
it
is
a
division
between
two
very
different
communities.
Yusuf Ali claims that this is a difficult verse to interpret, since
there are three different versions of interpretation :
„One school thinks the men on heights are angels, or men
of exalted dignity (e.g. the great apostles) who will be able to know
the souls at sight as regards their spiritual worth: the Heights will
be their exalted stations, from which they will welcome the
righteous with a salutation of peace…
Another school of thought thinks that the men on the
Heights are such souls that are not decidedly on the side of merit
74
or decidedly on the side of sin, but evenly balanced on a partition
between Heaven and Hell. Their case is yet to be decided….
The third line of interpretation, with which I agree, is
close to the first, with this exception, that the Partition and the
Heights are figurative. The higher souls will rejoice at the
approaching of the righteous (Ali,Y.1946:352).
3.2.2 Surah 33 verse 53
“O you who believe ! Enter not the
Prophet‟s houses until leave is given
you for a meal. Not to wait for its
preparation, but when you are invited,
enter
and
when
you
have
eaten,
75
disperse without seeking familiar talk.
This
annoys
the
Prophet. He
is
ashamed to dismiss you but Allah is
not ashamed of the truth.
And when you ask for any thing you
want ask them (females) from before a
hijab. That makes for greater purity
for your hearts and for theirs.Nor is it
right for you that you should annoy
Allah‟s Apostle, or that you should marry
his widows after him at any time. Truly
such a thing is in Allah‟s sight an
enormity. (Ali,Y. 1946:1124)
Here, Ibn Kathir, Ali and Khan translate the word hijab as
„screen‟. (Ibn Kathir, 2000: vol 8, 23; Ali,Y. 194:1124 and Khan,
M.1996:776). Pickthall and Palmer use „curtain‟(Pickthall, M.
1989:303 and Palmer, E.H. 2007:147). Rodwell uses „veil‟ (http://
www.sacred-texts.com/isl/sbe06/index.htm).
76
Commonly referred to as the „Hijab Verse‟, this verse and the
preceding one, explain the etiquette required for communicating
with the Prophet ( S. A. W.)‟s wives, visiting his homes and
general behaviour towards him in his social environment. This
verse is specific, in that the wives of the Prophet (S. A. W.) were
to be addressed from behind a “screen” or “curtain”. There is
a physical separation of the noble ladies from the common
folk, by a barrier that could not be seen through. It secludes
the Prophet ( S. A. W.)‟s wives by giving them privacy and is
simultaneously a symbol of their high status and dignity. The
context of this hijab is the separation of two spaces that are
not to intermingle.
Shaykh Muhammad al-Ghazali, in his book „A thematic
commentary on the Qur‟an‟, states „It is essential to lay down the
rules because, unlike palaces of kings or other rulers, with
reception facilities and several wings, the Prophet (S. A. W.)‟s
home consisted of a limited number of small rooms attached to a
mosque‟ (Al-Ghazali,M. 2000:460).
This was also the reason, according to al-Ghazali, for the
implementation of hijab for Muslim women in general. In their
77
homes, women dress more casually and are therefore in need of
privacy from visitors.
3.2.3 Surah 38 verse 32
„And he(David) said, „ Truly do I love
the love of good with a view to the
glory of my lord. Until it was hidden
in the hijab‟ (Ali,Y. 1946 : 1225)
Pickthall translates this word as „curtain‟ (Pickthall,M.1989:326)
while Ali, Khan, Palmer Ibn Kathir and Rodwell use the word
„veil‟ as the translation (Ali,Y.1946:1225; Ibn Kathir, 2000:vol 8,
327; Khan, M.1996:830; Palmer, A. 2007:178 and http://www.Sa
cred-texts.com/isl/sbe06/index.htm).
In this verse, Dawud (A. S.) regrets spending too much time
with his beloved horses instead of remembering Allah (S. W.
T.). He laments when the horses are taken away from his
presence. Despite variations in interpreting this verse, hijab
78
denotes something that is hidden from view due to an
obstruction like smoke or even darkness that is not seethrough.
Ali explains this verse as, “His view of his fine horses was
interpreted by his evening devotions but he resumed it after his
devotion” (Ali,Y.1946:1225). In other words, Ali interprets Bilhijabi as the approaching evening with the darkness being the
reason that he is unable to see his favourite horses.The word hijab
does not refer to a way of dress, instead it is an obscuring from
view of something due to the lack of light. Ibn Kathir describes it
as a disappearance of something behind „the veil of the night‟ (Ibn
Kathir, 2000:vol 8,237).
3.2.4 Surah 41 verse 5
“They (unbelievers) say : “Our hearts
are under veils from that to which
you invite us and in our ears is a
deafness and between us and you is
79
a hijab. So do what you will. For us
we will do too”(Ali,Y. 1946:1287)
Rodwell translates hijabun here as „shelter‟ (http://www.sacredtexts.com/isl/sbe06/index.htm).Ibn Kathir, Ali and Khan translate
it as „screen‟(Ali,Y. 1946:1287; Ibn Kathir, 2000: vol 8, 511 and
Khan,M. 1996:867) while Palmer uses „veiled‟ (Palmer,A.
2007:147).
Pickthall
gives
the
meaning
as
„barrier‟
( Pickthall, M. 1989:340).
Here, the word hijab refers to an invisible barrier between
Muslims and non-Muslims which prevents non-Muslims from
listening to what Muslims desire teaching them, nor does it
open their hearts to Islam. It becomes an uncompromising
barrier that is impregnable by either party.
Yusuf Ali explains this verse as, „This is either a superiority
complex adopting the sarcastic tone of an inferiority complex, or it
expresses calculated indifference to spiritual teaching. In effect it
says:„Our hearts and minds are not intelligent enough to
understand your noble ideas, nor our ears sufficiently acute to
hear their exposition: you and we are quite different; there is a
80
gulf between us. Why worry about us? You go your way, and we
shall go ours‟ (Ali,Y. 1946:1287).
Here hijab refers to a division that cannot be breached. It is a deep
gorge that does not allow mixing of two separate entities.
The word akinna, which is mentioned in this verse, is
translated by Yusuf Ali as „veil‟(Ali, Y. 1946:1287), Ibn Kathir
and Khan use „coverings‟(Khan, M. 1996:867 and Ibn Kathir,
2000: vol 8, 511).
These translations tend to relate closer to the contemporary
concept of „hijab‟ than the Qur‟anic context.
3.2.5 Surah 42 verse 51
„It is not fitting for a man that Allah
should
speak
to
him
except
by
inspiration or from behind a hijab or
81
by sending of a messenger to reveal
with Allah‟s permission what Allah
wills. He is Most High, Most Wise‟
(Ali,Y. 1946:1321)
All translators have used the word “veil” to explain this word.
(Ibn Kathir, 2000: vol 8, 610; Ali,Y. 1946:1321, Khan, M.
1996:890,Pickthall, M.1989:347: Palmer, A. 2007:147 and
http://www.sacredtexts. com/isl/sbe06/index.htm).
Yusuf Ali feels that this is not a physical veil or screen but
a mystical one. It is a veil of light or 70 000 veils of light.
He makes reference to a hadith quoted by Imam Ghazali :
„God has 70 000 veils of light and darkness. Were he to
withdraw their curtain, then would the splendours of his
aspect surely consume everyone who apprehended Him with
his sight‟ (Ali,Y. 1946:921).
Al-Ghazali comments that there is only a certain calibre of men
that Allah(S. W. T.) makes direct contact with. „..they, like the
stars in the sky, vary in their qualifications for this selection. Some
are sent to single communities, while others are sent to larger
ones, or to all humanity‟(Al-Ghazali. 2000: 536).
82
Even these selected few righteous men cannot come into direct
contact with Allah (S. W. T.) without a protective screen between
them.
Here hijab refers to a protection and shield from something too
powerful. It is a medium through which safe communication with
Allah (S. W. T.) is made possible. Without it, it is not „fitting‟ for
man to talk to Allah (S. W. T.) (Ali,Y.1964:1321).
3.2.6 Surah 17 verse 45 and 46
„When you recite the Qur‟an, we put
between you and those who do not
83
believe in the hereafter an a hijab
invisible.
And we put coverings over their
hearts lest they should understand the
Qur‟an and deafness in their ears :
when thou dost commemorate thy Lord
and Him alone in the Qur‟ an they turn
on their backs fleeing ( from the Truth)‟
(Ali,Y. 1946:707)
Ibn Kathir, Khan and Ali translate hijab as „veil‟(Ibn Kathir,
2000: vol 6, 23; Ali,Y.1946:707 and Khan, M. 1996:523).
Pickthall uses „barrier‟ (Pickthall ,M. 1989:207), while Palmer
translates it as „covering veil‟ (Palmer, A. 2007:6). Rodwell, on the
other hand translates it as „dark veil‟
(http://www.sacred-texts.com/isl/sbe06/index.htm).
Although the translators vary in their explanation of the word here,
the general consensus is that Allah (S. W. T.) puts an unseen
84
barrier between those who do not believe and those who
believe when the Qur‟an is being recited.
Khan states “It is said in the Book of Tafsir (Imam Qurtubi) Vol
10, page 269 as regards this Verse (17 : 45) : Narrated Sa‟id bin
Jubair (R. A.) „When Surah no 111 ( Tabat Yada) was revealed,
the wife of Abu Lahab came looking for the Prophet (S.A.W.),while
Abu Bakr (R.A.) was sitting beside him. Abu Bakr said to the
Prophet (S.A W.) “I wish if you get aside (or go away) as she is
coming to us, she may harm you.” The Prophet (S.A.W.)said:
“There will be a screen between me and her.” So she did not see
him. She said to Abu Bakr : “Your companion ( S. A. W.) is saying
poetry against me.” Abu Bakr said : “By Allah, he does not say
poetry.” She said : “Do you believe that ?” Then she left. Abu
Bakr said : “O Allah‟s messenger ( S. A. W.) ! She did not see you.
The Prophet (S. A. W. ) said : “An angel was screening me from
her”.
Ali maintains that the meaning of hijab in the above verse is
mystic. “If all nature, external and within ourselves, declares
God‟s glory, those unfortunates who cut themselves off from their
better nature are isolated from men of God and the revelation of
85
God…..The veil is none the less real because it is invisible”
(Ali,Y.1946:707).
The word „akinna‟ appears in verse 46, and in surah 41,
verse 5. The translation of Ibn Kathir transliterates this word (Ibn
Kathir, 2000: vol 6,23), but it has been translated as „coverings‟,
(Ali,Y.1946:707; Khan, M. 1996:523 and
http://www.sacredtexts.com/isl/sbe06/index.htm), „veil‟(Pickthall,
M.1989:207) and „covers‟ (Palmer, E.H. 2007:6). It is evident
that this word has a close resemblance to the word “hijab”
as we use it today. This is somewhat different from the Qur‟anic
concept of hijab.
Yusuf Ali describes it as an invisible veil placed on the
disbelievers, which has the effect of confusing their minds and
deafening their ears. „In other words, the effects of Evil become
cumulative in shutting out God‟s grace‟ (Ali,Y. 1946:707).
Ibn Kathir explains the concept of akinnah as „meaning something
which covers or that cannot be seen, so there is a barrier between
them and guidance and this is the interpretation that Ibn Jarir
thought was correct‟(Ibn Kathir, 2000 : vol 8,610).
86
3.2.7 Surah 19 verse 17
„She ( Mary) placed a hijab between
them. Then We sent to her Our angel
and he appeared before her as a
man in all respects‟ (Ali,Y. 1946:771).
Ibn Kathir, Ali and Khan use „screen‟ to translate hijab (Ibn
Kathir, 2000: vol 6, 240; Ali,Y. 1946:771 and Khan, M.
1996:563). Pickthall‟s „seclusion‟ describes the physical removal
of Mary (A.S.) from her community (Pickthall,M. 1989:222). It
also implies „seclusion‟ and „privacy‟- similar to that which is
being referred to in the verse of hijab. Palmer explains it as a
„veil (to screen herself)‟ (Palmer, E.H.2007:28) and Rodwell
interprets it as „veil to shroud herself‟(http://www.sacredtexts.com/isl/sbe06/index.htm).
87
Mary was isolated from her people and she remained in a state of
piety and devotion for a period. She placed a barrier between
herself and her community that was determined by her seclusion
and removal of herself from society. Hijab in this verse refers to
her action of withdrawing from society for the purpose of prayer.
3.2.8 Surah 83 verse 15
„Verily from their Lord, that day, will
they
(unbelievers)
be
mahjubun‟
(Ali,Y. 1946:1705)
Palmer, Ali, Khan and Ibn Kathir translate this word as „veiled‟
(Palmer, E.H. 2007:324; Ali,Y. 1946:1705; Ibn Kathir, 2000: vol
10, 401 and Khan, M. 1996:1095) and Pickthall translates it as
„covered from, (Pickthall, M. 1989:433). Rodwell explains it as
„shut out as by a veil‟ (http://www.sacred-texts.com/isl/sbe06/
index.htm).
88
The reference to „veil‟ in this verse implies a
separation
between
Allah (S. W. T.) and the
definite
disbelievers.
According to Al-Ghazali, this verse refers to the consequence of
consistently performing sinful acts. „Those for whom lowly
behaviour becomes a habit and who get used to living like animals
shall be barred from entering the gates of heaven‟ (al –Ghazali, M.
2000:708).
Hijab here refers to a prohibition for disbelievers from receiving
the mercy of Allah (S. W. T.). It is the means with which they will
be cut off from the Creator, so that they will not receive
forgiveness.
These days, hijab refers to the dress code, together with the
moral conduct of
a Muslim in society. The Qur‟an uses the
word hijab in various contexts. In the above verses, hijab is used
as a visible or invisible barrier between two spaces. The
groups in each space are not allowed to mix. There is a
definite physical, mystical or psychological reason for this
separation.
89
Translators have used “curtain”, “barrier”, “veil” and “screen”
when translating the word hijab. Lexicon and
contemporary
dictionaries define the root word H-J-B as „to hide‟ (Wehr,H.
1976: 156).
Clearly the difference in meanings show an evolution in the
way the word “hijab” is being used today. It does not assist in
defining the specific dress code for Muslims so we need to
look at other word and verses in the Qur‟an, for further
understanding of this concept.
3.3 The concept of Khimara in the Qur’an
3.3.1 Surah 24 verse 31
90
„And say to the believing women that
they should lower their gaze and
guard their modesty. That they should
not
display
their
beauty
and
ornaments except what must appear
of
it. They
should
draw
their
khumurihinna over their jububihinna
and not display their beauty except to
their
husbands, their fathers, their
husbands‟ fathers, their sons, their
husbands‟ sons, their brothers or their
brothers‟ sons, or their sisters‟ sons, or
their women or the slaves whom their
right hands possess, or male servants
free of physical needs, or small children
who have no sense of the shame of sex;
and that they should not strike their feet
in order to draw attention to their hidden
ornaments. And O ye Believers ! Turn ye
all together towards God, that ye may
attain bliss. (Ali,Y. 1946 : 904)
91
This verse defines the proper dress code according to Islam and
how it should be done according to Islamic Shari‟ah.
3.4 The word juyubihinna
Let us analyse
the word juyubihinna. What exactly must be
covered in this verse? It is observed that most translators have
used the word „bosom‟ . Khan transliterates the word and then
provides an interpretation of it as „bodies, faces, neck and
bosoms‟ ( Khan, M. 1996:649).
The question of whether the face is included or not here, is
clarified by Khan by substantiating with the following Hadith :
„Narrated Ayesha (R. A.), „May Allah bestows His Mercy on the
early emigrant women. When Allah revealed : „And to draw their
veils all over their Juyubihinna (i. e. their bodies, faces, necks and
bosoms, etc.)‟- They tore their Mourts (a woollen dress, or a waistbinding cloth or an apron, etc.) and covered their heads and faces
with those torn Mourts‟ (Khan, M. 1996: 649).
Ibn Kathir explains juyub as „they should wear the outer garment
in such a way as to cover their chest and ribs so that they will be
92
different from the women of the jahilia who did not do that, but
would pass in front of men with their chest completely uncovered
and with their necks, forelocks, hair and earrings uncovered so
Allah
commanded
the
believing
women
to
cover
themselves…‟(Ibn Kathir, 2000: vol 7 ,67).
3.7
The word Khumurihinna
Yusuf Ali, Mushin Khan Ibn Kathir and Marmaduke Pickthall
translate khumurihinna as “veils” (Ali,Y.1946:904, Khan, M.
1996:649; Ibn Kathir, 2000: vol 7, 67 and Pickthall, M. 1989:255).
The dictionary defines „khimara‟ as „veil, covering head and
face of a woman” and “covering – tablecloth, blanket”(Wehr, H.
1976:261).
Technically, the word “khimr” is used to indicate any
substance that intoxicates the mind. It prevents the mind from
thinking clearly by placing a type of unseen internal veil
over it. Being a very similar word, it stands to reason that
khimara is an external veil that covers the head. Women
before Islam always wore a head covering that was tied
behind the head. This left the ears, neck and bosom uncovered.
93
During the Islamic era, the above verse was understood as a
command for ladies to use this same headscarf to cover their
bosoms. This means that their faces need not be covered.
However that is a debate that goes beyond the Qur‟an to
Hadith, Shar‟iah and Fiqh.
Another possible meaning of khumurihinna could be a skirt worn
by ladies of the early Islamic Era. This is explained by the
following hadith mentioned by Khan :
„Narrated Safiyah bint Shaibah : „„Aisha used to say : „When the
Verse : „And draw their veils all over their Juyubihinna (i. e. their
bodies, faces, necks and bosoms, etc) (Qur‟an. 24:31) was
revealed, (the ladies) cut their waist sheets at the edges and
covered their heads and faces with those cut pieces of cloth‟ (Sahih
Al-Bukhari,vol 6, Hadith no. 282 and Khan,M. 1996:649).
The variation in the meaning of the word khumurihinna is a
debated issue. It is a subjective interpretation of what each
individual understands the word to mean. For women who accept it
as a headscarf, the question of whether or not a lady should cover
her hair does not arise. On the other hand, for the women who
accept that the Khimar was a type of waist cloth or skirt, the
94
obligation of draping the head is a questionable issue, as the
Qur‟an does not specify the covering of the head, like it specifies
the covering of the bosom.
3.6 The concept of Jalabibihinna in the Qur’an
3.6.1 Surah 33 verse 59
“O
Prophet ! Tell your wives and
daughters and the believing women
that
they
should
cast
their
jalabeebihinna over their persons. That
is most convenient that they should
be known and not molested. Allah is
Most Forgiving, Most Merciful”(Ali,Y.
1946:1126).
Ali refers to this as an „outer garment; a long gown covering
the whole body, or a cloak covering the neck and bosom‟(Ali,Y.
1946:1126) Pickthall and Khan refer to it as “cloak” (Pickthall,
95
M. 1989:306 and Khan, M. 1996:649) while Palmer translates it
as „outer wrappers‟ (Palmer, E.H. 2007:148) and Rodwell simply
uses „veil‟ (http://www.sacredtexts.com/isl/sbe06/index.htm).
Ibn Kathir interprets this verse as they should „draw their jilbabs
over their bodies so that they would be distinct in their appearance
from women of jahillia and from slave women. The jilbab is a
Rida‟ worn over the khimar. This was the view of Ibn Mas‟ud,
Ubaydah, Qatadah, Al-Hassan Al-Basri‟, Sa‟id bin Jubayr,
Ibrahim An-Nakha-I, Ata, Al-Khurasani. It is like the Izar used
today. Al-Jawahari said, „The Jilbab is the outer wrapper‟ (Ibn
Kathir, 2000: vol 8, 45).
The word yudneena explains how this „cloak‟ must be worn.
This
word
means „cast
over
their
persons‟ (Ali,Y.
1946:1126),„draw close round them‟(Pickthall, M. 1989: 306)
„draw all over their bodies‟ (Khan, M. 1996:778).
Yusuf Ali presents a brief explanation on the message of this verse.
„The object was not to restrict the liberty of women, but to protect
them from harm and molestation under the conditions then existing
in Medina. In the East and in the West, a distinctive public dress of
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some sort or another has always been a badge of honour or
distinction, both among men and women‟ (Ali,Y. 1946:1126).
Ibn Kathir explains yudneena as „to draw means to pull it around
and tie securely their veils all over their juyub means over their
necks and chests so that nothing can be seen of them‟(Ibn Kathir,
2000: vol 7, 69).
It is evident that Muslim women must wear this loose cloak
in such a way that their body shape is not visible, so that
they would be recognized and respected.
3.7 Conclusion
From the Qur‟anic words and verses relating to the dress
code of a Muslim, we can deduce the following :
The Qur‟an orders Muslims to be as
well-dressed as possible (Qur‟an. 7:26).
All Muslims must lower their gazes and guard their
modesty, and women must cover their bosoms with
their headscarves (Qur‟an.24:31).
Women have to draw their cloaks over themselves
(Qur‟an.33:59).
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In brief, the Qur‟anic point of view is that every Muslim
female has to wear an outer cloak that covers her body and
a headscarf which covers her bosom, when she goes out of
her home. Islam places these conditions on a woman , not as
a means of oppressing her , but as a way of protecting her
and giving her dignity through instant recognition, as a
Muslim woman who should be respected and revered.
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Chapter Four
The Dress Code in
Prophetic
Tradition
99
CHAPTER FOUR
THE DRESS CODE IN PROPHETIC TRADITION.
4.1 Introduction
With the demise of the Prophet (S.A.W.), it was impossible to
refer to him about matters arising in daily life. These problems
were resolved either by consulting the Qur‟an or on the basis of
the actions and sayings of the Prophet (S.A.W.). These eyewitness accounts of occurrences in the life of the Prophet
(S.A.W.) are recorded as ahahith. The Sunnah or practice of the
Prophet (S.A.W.) has had a considerable influence on Islamic
Law. To obtain a proper appreciation of the Islamic requirements
of hijab, the reference to various hadith literatures is essential.
Here, the Hadith literature consulted comprised of the works of
Imam Bukhari, Imam Muslim, Imam Abu Dawud, Tirmidhi and
the Muwatta of Imam Malik. Most of the ahadith studied
complimented and confirmed each other, however, there are some
ahadith that contradicted each other, even by same scholar.
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4.2 Length of Garment
According to Imam Bukhari, Abu Hurairah (R.A.) reported that,
the Prophet (S.A.W.) said, „The part of the Izar (pants) which
hangs below the ankles is in the fire‟(Bukhari. 1994:946). This
Prophetic tradition relates to men wearing a trouser that touches
the floor. Some scholars, like Muslim, have taken the literal
meaning of this hadith and claimed that the trouser must be on or
above the ankles to be acceptable.
Muslim quotes Ibn „Umar (R.A.) as „Allah‟s Messenger (May
peace and blessings be upon him) said: “Allah will not look upon
him who trails his garment out of pride‟ (Muslim. 1980:1148).
This refers to part of the lower garment of either males or
females. The ancient tradition of wearing long length robes by the
elite upper class in order to show their status was not acceptable
in Islam.
Muslim further quotes another hadith on the authority of Ibn
„Umar: „I happened to pass before Allah‟s Messenger (may peace
and blessings be upon him) with my lower garment trailing (upon
the ground). He said : “Abdullah, tug up your lower garment”. I
tugged it up, and he again said : “ Tug it still further”, and I
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tugged it still further and I went on tugging it afterward,
whereupon some people said : “ To what extent ?” Thereupon he
said: “To the middle of the shanks‟ (Muslim. 1980:1149)
Abu Dawud says that Abu Juray Jabir bin Salim narrated a
lengthy hadith that contained the following words of the Prophet
(S.A.W.): „… Have your lower garment halfway down your shin;
if you cannot do it, have it up to the ankles. Beware of hanging
down the lower garment for it is conceit and Allah does not like
conceit…..‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1140).
Another hadith mentioned in Abu Dawud‟s work is one reported
by Abu Hurairah (R.A.) : „A man was praying with his lower
garment hanging down. The Apostle of Allah (May peace and
blessings be upon him) said to him: “Go and perform ablution.”
He then went and performed ablution. He then came and he said
: “Go and perform ablution.” Then a man said to him: “Apostle
of Allah, what is the matter with you that you commanded him to
perform ablution and then you kept silence?” He replied: “He
was praying while hanging down his lower garments, and Allah
does not accept the prayer of a man who hangs down his lower
garment‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1140).
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An interesting hadith also mentioned by Abu Dawud is one
narrated by Ibn Umar (R.A) that the Apostle of Allah (May peace
and blessings be upon him) said: „If anyone trails his garment
arrogantly, Allah will not look at him on the Day of
Resurrection.” Then Abu Bakr said : “One of the sides of my
lower garment trails, but still I remain careful about it.” He said:
“You are not one of those who do so conceitedly‟ (Abu Dawud.
1985:1140).
The length of the garment has been a very controversial issue in
the Muslim world. There are scholars who hold the view that the
garment must be above the ankles for the individual‟s prayer to
be accepted. There seems to be some wisdom in this view as this
will ensure that the clothes remain clean and pure at all times.
However, the group which subscribes to the contrary view, base
their arguments on the fact that most ahadith regard the actual
dragging of garments on the floor as unacceptable. Thus, it is
permissible to wear a trouser with its length going below the
ankles but without touching the ground.
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The basic idea accepted by Muslims today is that wearing a long
robe or trouser that sweeps the floor is not permissible. Firstly, it
is unhygienic and secondly it is a sign of arrogance as mentioned
in the ahadith.
4.3 Wearing of Silk
The prohibition on wearing of silk by men in Islam is clarified by
Imam Bukhari in the following hadith on the authority of „Umar
(R. A.) : The Prophet (S. A. W.) said : „There is none who wears
silk in this world except that he will wear nothing of it in the
Hereafter‟ (Bukhari. 1994:947).
Bukhari also relates from Abu Hanifa (R.A.) that „The Prophet
(S.A.W.) forbade us to drink out of gold and silver vessels, or eat
in it, and also forbade the wearing of silk and dibaj‟ (Bukhari.
1994:947).
Muslim presents the Prophetic tradition on the prohibition of
wearing silk in a hadith narrated by ‟Abdullah bin „Ukaim that
„the Prophet (S. A. W.) did not allow his followers to drink in
gold and silver vessels, and he also did not allow them to wear
brocade or silk, because he said that those things were meant for
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the disbelievers in this world, but they are meant for the believers
in the Hereafter and on the Day of Resurrection‟ (Muslim. 1980:
1140).
Bukhari quotes from „Umar (R.A.) that „Allah‟s Messenger
(S.A.W.) had forbidden the use of silk (clothes by men) except
this much, then he pointed with his index and middle fingers. To
our knowledge, by that he meant embroidery‟ (Bukhari.
1994:947).
Similar ahadith have also been reported by Muslim who adds the
permissibility for women to adorn silk . „Ali reported : „A silk
cloak was presented to Allah‟s Messenger (may peace and
blessings be upon him), and he sent it to me and I wore it, but
then found some sign of disapproval on his face, whereupon he
said : “I did not send it to you that you wear it, but I sent it to you
that you might make out head dresses for you women‟ (Muslim.
1980:1142).
Abu Dawud quotes similar ahadith with different chains of
narrators wherein he mentions the permissibility of wearing silk
embroidery or edging: „Ibn „„Abbas said: „It is only a garment
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made wholly of silk which the Apostle of Allah (may peace and
blessings be upon him) forbade, but there is no harm in the
ornamented border and the wrap‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1133).
There is a general consensus among scholars allowing men to
wear silk under specific circumstances. Muslim quotes on the
authority of Anas bin Malik that the Prophet (S. A. W. ) had
granted concession to ‟Abd al-Rahman bin ‟Auf and Zubair bin
Awwam to wear a silk shirt during the journey and because of a
skin disorder that they both suffered from at that time (Muslim.
1980:1147).
A similar hadith reported by Abu Dawud serves to confirm the
concession allowed on wearing silk during an illness (Abu
Dawud. 1985:1134 ).
It is thus evident that although it is permissible for women to
wear silk, its adornment by men is forbidden in Islam. Muslim
men are allowed embroidery in silk on their garments but this
must be kept to a minimum. Men are permitted to wear silk only
if they are suffering from a skin ailment which prevents them
from wearing any other cloth.
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4.4 The beard
Bukhari is very clear on the issue of the beard: „Narrated Ibn
„Umar (R.A.) : Allah‟s Messenger (S.A.W) said, “Do the opposite
of what the pagans do, cut the moustaches short and leave the
beard (as it is)‟ (Bukhari. 1994:949).
Abu Dawud relates that ‟Abdullah bin „Umar said: „The Apostle
of Allah (May peace is upon him) commanded to clip the
moustache and grow the beard long‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1232).
According to Prophetic tradition, Muslim men must grow their
beards long but keep their moustaches neatly trimmed. It was the
clipped moustache and long beard that helped people to recognize
a man as a Muslim since this was different from the way the nonMuslims kept their beards during that time.
4.5 Shoes
Both Muslim and Abu Dawud relate the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s
recommendation regarding sandals:„Jabir reported.“ I heard
Allah‟s Apostle (May peace be upon him) saying during an
expedition in which we also participated: „Make a general
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practice of wearing sandals, for a man is riding as it were when
he wears sandals‟ (Muslim. 1980:1153). This implies that
wearing sandals ensures easier movements and protects the feet
as if the wearer is riding on an animal.
Bukhari relates: „Narrated Anas (R.A.) : He was asked, “Did the
Prophet (S.A.W.) use to offer the Salat (prayers) with his shoes
on?” He said “Yes”‟ (Bukhari:1994: 948). Although this seems
not the norm, this serves to indicate that the Prophet (S.A.W.)
also wore shoes or boots.
The method of putting on and removing shoes is clearly described
in hadith literature. The procedure to be followed is that the right
shoe must be put on first and then the left one. When taking off
the shoes first the left one must be taken off then the right one.
4.6 Saffron-dyed or Yellow clothes
A contradiction exists in reports pertaining to the permissibility
of wearing yellow coloured clothing. According to Abu Dawud,
it is permissible as mentioned in the following hadith : „Zaid bin
Aslam said : Ibn „Umar used to dye his beard with yellow colour
so much so that his clothes were filled (dyed) with yellowness. He
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was asked : „Why do you dye with yellow colour ?‟ He replied: „I
saw the Apostle of Allah (May peace be upon him) dyeing with
yellow colour and nothing was dearer to him than it. He would
dye all his clothes with it, even his turban‟ (Abu Dawud.
1985:1134).
On the other hand, Muslim states that „Ali bin Abu Talib
reported: Allah‟s Messenger (may peace be upon him) forbade
wearing of silk and yellow clothes, and the gold ring, and the
reciting of the Qur‟an in ruku (state of kneeling in prayer)‟
(Muslim. 1980:1146). He further argues that „Abdullah bin
„Umar bin al-As reported: Allah‟s Messenger (May peace be
upon him) saw me wearing two clothes dyed in saffron,
whereupon he said: These are the clothes (usually worn by) the
non-believers, so do not wear them‟ (Muslim. 1980:1146).
Bukhari subscribes to the ruling that yellow-coloured clothing is
not permissible in the simple hadith: „Narrated Anas (R.A.): The
Prophet (S.A.W.) forbade men to use saffron‟ (Buhkari.1994:
947).
109
It can thus be concluded that although Imam Abu Dawud claims
that the Prophet (S.A.W.) wore yellow clothes, we have other
evidence that he forbade it – especially those clothes that were
dyed with saffron. This creates a conflict that may be resolved by
the wearer‟s own reasons behind wearing the garment.
4.7 Red clothes
According to Abu Dawud, red clothing was not favoured by the
Prophet (S.A.W.) for men but allowed women. „Amr bin Shuaib
on his father‟s authority told that his grandfather said: „We came
down with the Apostle of Allah (May peace be upon him) from a
valley. He turned his attention to me and I was wearing a
garment dyed with a reddish-yellow dye. He asked : „What is this
garment over you ?‟ I recognized what he disliked. I then came to
my family who were burning their oven. I threw it ( the garment)
in it and came to him the next day. He asked : „Abd Allah, what
have you done with the garment ?‟ I informed him about it. He
said : „Why did you not give it to one of your family to wear, for
there is no harm in it for women‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1135)
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There are numerous other ahadith that support this view. Thus, it
can be concluded that Muslim men are not allowed to wear red,
whereas Muslim women may use this colour.
A hadith to the contrary reported
by Abu Dawud
on the
authority of „Amir (R.A.) says „I saw the Apostle of Allah (May
peace be upon him) at Mina giving a sermon on a mule and
wearing a red garment….‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1136).
Although totally contradictory to the previous ahadith, this
hadith has been accepted by many scholars like Shafi‟ and Malik,
who claim that ahadith relating to the prohibition of wearing red
are weak.
Bukhari strengthens this view by quoting a hadith narrated by
Al-Bara (R.A.) „The Prophet (S.A.W.) was of modest height. I
saw him wearing a red suit and I did not see anything better than
him‟ (Khan,M. 1985:493). This implies that though many
scholars believe that men should not wear red, likewise, there are
many scholars who hold the view that red is permissible for men.
Some maintain that this should be left to the discretion of the
individual.
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4.8 White garments
It is evident that the Prophet (S.A.W.) loved to wear white
clothing. Imam Abu Dawud has the following hadith in his
compilation: „Ibn „Abbas reported the Apostle of Allah (May
peace be upon him) as saying: Wear your white garments for they
are among your best garments, and shroud your dead in
them….‟(Abu Dawud. 1985:1134).
The Prophet (S.A.W.) made white the official colour to be worn
on the two important religious pilgrimages to Mecca. White
signifies purity and cleanliness and to every Muslim being in a
state of external purity at all times is vital, as this is a constant
reminder to be pure and clean inside. Wearing white is a
subconscious means of achieving spiritual purity.
According to Tirmidhi, “Samurah bin Jundub (R.A.) says:
„Rasulullah (S.A.W.) said: „Wear white clothing because it is
more taahir and clean, and also clothe your dead in it‟ (Tirmidhi.
1992:66).
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4.9 Wearing Gold and Silver Jewellery
The Prophet (S.A.W.) permitted the use of silver by both men and
women. He did not allow men to wear gold as „Abu Hurairah
(R.A.) reported the Apostle of Allah (may peace be upon him) as
saying : „If anyone wants to put a ring of fire on the one he loves,
let him put a gold ring on him; if anyone wants to put a necklace
of fire on one he loves, let him put a gold necklace on him and if
anyone wants to put a bracelet of fire on one he loves, let him put
a gold bracelet on him. Keep to silver and amuse yourselves with
it‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1176).
Muslim supports this hadith with one of his own: „Abu Hurairah
reported that Allah‟s Messenger (May peace be upon him)
forbade the wearing of gold signet ring‟ (Muslim. 1980:1150).
Bukhari quotes the following hadith „Narrated „Abd-Allah
(R.A.); Allah‟s Apostle (S.A.W.) wore a gold or silver ring and
placed the stone in the palm of his hand. The people also started
wearing gold rings like it. But when the Prophet (S.A.W.) saw
them wearing such rings, he threw away that golden ring and
then wore a silver ring‟ (Khan,M. 1980:502).
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Wearing gold as an ornament is totally forbidden for men in
Islam. However, if an individual needs to use gold for medical
reasons, he is allowed to do so. This is clarified in a hadith by
Abu Dawud : „Abd al-Rahman bin Tarafah said that his
grandfather, Arfajah bin Asad who had his nose cut off at the
battle of al-Kilab got a silver nose, but it developed a stench, so
the Prophet (may peace be upon him) ordered him to get a gold
nose‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1175).
4.10 The favourite garment of the Prophet (S.A.W.)
The Prophetic tradition commonly narrated by Bukhari, Muslim
and Abu Dawud is reported on the authority of Anas bin Malik,
who said that the
Prophet (S.A.W.)‟ s most beloved garment
was the striped ornamented cloak from Yemen. Green in colour,
these hibara (green cloaks) were made of the best cloth in Arabia.
“Narrated by „Aishah (R.A.):„Allah‟s Messenger (S.A.W.) passed
away, he was covered with a Hibara Burd (green square
decorated garment)‟ (Bukhari. 1994:946).
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4.11 Wearing a turban by Muslim men
It is traditional among Muslim men in certain countries to wear a
turban which was derived from the practice of the Prophet
(S.A.W.). According to Abu Dawud, Jabir has reported that the
Prophet (S.A.W) wore a black turban when he conquered Mecca
(Abu Dawud. 1984:1137).
He is more specific in the following hadith when he says „Ali bin
Rukanah quoting his father said : “Rukanah wrestled with the
Prophet (S.A.W.) and the Prophet (S.A.W.) threw him on the
ground. Rukhana said : „I heard the Prophet (S.A.W.) say: „The
difference between us and the polytheists is that we wear turbans
over caps‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1137).
This obviously refers to the physical appearance of a person and
his recognition as a Muslim, and not a polytheist, as Muslims
wore turbans while polytheists did not. Another hadith reporting
that the Prophet (S. A. W.) wore are reported by Imam Tirmidhi
as well „Amr bin Hurayth (R.A.) says: “I had seen Rasulullah
(S.A.W.) wear a black turban‟ (Tirmidhi. 1992:109).
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4.12 Type of cloth to be used
Muslim quotes a hadith regarding the type of cloth favoured by
the Prophet (S. A. W.): „Abu Burda reported: I visited „Aisha
(R.A.) and she brought out for us the coarse lower garment (of
Allah‟s Messenger) made in Yemen and clothes made out of
Mulabba cloth, and she swore in the name of Allah that Allah‟s
Messenger (may peace be upon him) died in these two clothes‟
(Muslim.1980: 1147).
Tirmidhi also quotes this same hadith with a slight variation in
words (Tirmidhi. 1992:114).
Mulabba is a type of rough, coarse cloth that was used by those
who could not afford a softer fabric. The fact that the Prophet
(S.A.W) used such cloth, despite being the ruler of Arabia,
emphasizes that Muslims must lead a simple austere life free
from extravagance and indulgence.
Abu Dawud quotes a similar hadith by „Utbah bin Abd al-Sulami
quoted by Abu Dawud: „I asked the Apostle of Allah (May peace
be upon him) to clothe me. He clothed me with two coarse clothes
of linen‟ (Abu Dawud.1985:1127).
116
There is much wisdom in keeping one‟s clothes simple as it is a
very effective way of eliminating pride and vanity from the heart.
4.13 Pride with clothes and imitating others
Islam is very strict with forbidding people from showing their
pride and status through the clothes they wear. It is clear in many
ahadith that the Prophet (S.A.W.) was not a proud and
extravagant person and certainly did not propagate this attitude.
„Abu Hurairah reported that Allah‟s Messenger (May peace be
upon him) said that there was a person who used to walk with
pride because of his thick hair and fine mantles. He was made to
sink in the earth and he would go on sinking in the earth until the
last hour would come‟(Muslim. 1980:1151).
Imam Malik quotes : „Abu Hurairah reported that the Apostle of
Allah (may peace be upon him) declared: „On the Day of
Judgement, the Lord will not look towards the man who trails his
cloth by way of pride‟ (Malik. 1985:382)
A hadith reported by Abu Dawud regarding the imitating of
others which is prevalent in Muslim societies is: „Ibn „Umar
reported the Apostle of Allah (May peace be upon him) as saying:
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He who copies any people is one of them‟ (Abu Dawud.
1985:1127). Today, in our society, Muslims have a tendency to
follow the latest fashion trends dictated to us by the West. These
new fashion ideas are totally in contrast with Islamic hijab. Yet
Muslims prefer to follow these trends more and more faithfully
each day. The reason for this is buried in their pride and desire to
look the best and most modern. Once again this is in conflict with
Islamic requirements of being simple and not extravagant.
4.14 Wearing the best of clothes
While discouraging pride and extravagance, Islam encourages
the wearing of the best clothes one can afford. „Abu al-Ahwas
quoted his father as saying : „I came to the Prophet (May peace
be upon him) wearing a poor garment and he said (to me):
„Have you any property ?‟ He replied: „Yes‟. He asked : „What
kind is it ?‟ He said : „Allah has given me camels, sheep, horses
and slaves‟. He then he said : „When Allah gives you property,
let the mark of Allah‟s favour and honour to you be seen‟ (Abu
Dawud. 1985:1135).
Leaving no allowance for being miserly or selfish, Islam
requires that an individual use the resources that he has been
118
provided by Allah. It is not correct for anyone who can afford
an item not to buy it from fear of spending too much money
unless if he/she knows that such an item is not needed and is an
extravagance. Islam promotes moderation in all actions and the
way a Muslim dresses has to indicate this.
4.15 How much of the body can be displayed
The popular and much quoted hadith that answers this question
appears in most hadith literature: „„Aisha said: Asma‟, daughter
of Abu Bakr, entered upon the Apostle of Allah (May peace be
upon him) wearing thin clothes. The Apostle of Allah (May peace
be upon him) turned his attention from her. He said : O Asma‟
when a woman reaches the age of menstruation, it does not suit
her that she displays her parts of body except this and this, and
he pointed to her face and hands‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1145).
It is clear that Muslim women must not expose their bodies
except their face and hands. This allowance is not accepted by
some scholars, like the followers of the Wahhabi sect, as they
believe that even the face and hands of a woman must be
concealed. Again, they base their views on other hadith literature
119
that they deem to be more authentic traditions of the Prophet
(S.A.W.).
Abu Dawud quotes the following hadith : „Dihya bin Khalifah AlKalbi said: „The Apostle of Allah (May peace be upon him) was
brought some pieces of fine Egyptian linen and he gave me one
and said : „Divide it into two; cut one of the pieces into a shirt
and give the other to your wife for a veil.‟ Then when he turned
away, he said: „And order your wife to wear a garment below it
and not to show her figure‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1148).
These ahadith clarify that a Muslim woman has to wear a veil
that is on her head but need not cover her face and hands.
Furthermore, she must wear another lower garment that does not
show her shape. This is the basic requirement for Islamic dress
that has been advocated by the Qur‟an as well.
Hadith literature also presents the concessions of dress on a
woman in the company of a Mahram: „Anas said: „The Prophet
(May peace be upon him) brought Fatima a slave which he
donated to her. Fatima wore a garment which, when she covered
her head, did not reach her feet, and when she covered her feet
120
by it, that garment did not reach her head. When the Prophet
(May peace be upon him) saw her struggle, he said : „There is no
harm to you : here is only your father and slave‟ (Abu Dawud.
1985:1145).
4.16 Men and women imitating each other
“Ibn„Abbas said: „The Prophet of Allah (May peace be upon him)
cursed women who imitate men and men who imitate women‟
(Abu Dawud. 1985: 1143).
This is a simple but clear hadith on the attitude that men and
women must adopt. There is no room for similarities in dress
among men and women in Islam. The concept of “unisex” does
not exist and is not allowed.
„Ibn Abi Mulaika told that when someone remarked to „„Aisha
that a woman was wearing sandals, she replied: The Apostle of
Allah (May peace be upon him) cursed mannish women‟ (Abu
Dawud. 1985:1143). Islam encourages women to be beautiful,
graceful and feminine. Allah has created women to be soft and
gentle and this must be displayed in their dress and attitude.
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Bukhari quotes the following hadith : “The Prophet (S.A.W.)
cursed effeminate men (those men who are in similitude (assume
the manners of women and those women who assume the manners
of men) and he said, „Turn them out of your houses‟ (Bukhari.
1994:948). Although this may seem harsh if looked at purely from
a dressing point of view, Islam‟s strictness with regard to a man
being and acting his role in society is evident. The same applies to
women. Each sex has clearly defined roles to play and the visible
way to show this is in the way each dresses.
4.17 Hijab requirements with regard to the hair
„Abu Hurairah reported the Apostle of Allah (May peace be upon
him) as saying: He who has hair should honour it‟ (Abu Dawud.
1985:1159).
Islamic teachings advocate that the hair must be kept short, neat
and clean at all times. There is a concept that women are not
allowed to cut their hair and that the long hair of a woman will be
used to cover her modestly on the Day of Resurrection. However,
this view is not favourable to many young ladies today.
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„Sa‟id bin Jubair said: “There is no harm in fastening the hair
with silk or woollen threads‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1161). Women
are permitted to use pretty ribbons and threads to fasten their
hair, but this form of beautification must be covered by a veil
when leaving her house.
With regard to the dyeing of hair, the Prophet (S.A.W.) was very
explicit : „Narrated Abu Hurairah (R.A.) : „The Prophet (S.A.W.)
said , „Jews and Christians do not dye their hair so you should do
the opposite of what they do‟ (Bukhari. 1994:949).
Muslim also quotes the same hadith to justify the dying of the
hair. He also quotes that: „Jabir bin „Abdullah reported that Abu
Quhafa was led to the audience of the Holy Prophet (S. A. W.) on
the day of the conquest of Mecca and his head and beard were
white like hyssop, whereupon Allah‟s Messenger (may peace be
upon him) said: Change it with something but avoid black‟
(Muslim. 1980:1156). It is generally known that Islam allows the
dyeing of hair. The colour that is used must be other than the
natural colour of the individual.
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4.18 The use of Henna
„„Aisha told that when Hind, daughter of „Utbah, said: „Prophet
of Allah accept my allegiance‟ He replied:„I shall not accept your
allegiance till you make a difference to the palms of your hands;
for they look like the paws of a beast of prey‟ (Abu Dawud.
1985:1159). Although the Prophet (S.A.W.) disliked Hind for her
heinous actions against Hamza (R.A.) in the battle of Uhud, his
distaste for a woman not having henna on her hands is indicated
in this hadith.
The following hadith confirms this: „Aishah said: “A woman
made a sign from behind a curtain to indicate that she had a
letter for the Apostle of Allah (May peace be upon him). The
Prophet (May peace be upon him) closed his hand, saying „I do
not know this is a man‟s or a woman‟s hand‟. She said : „No, a
woman‟. He said : „If you are a woman, you would make a
difference to your nails‟, meaning with henna‟ (Abu Dawud.
1985:1160).
From these ahadith it is evident that women must use henna to
promote their femininity. Having henna on the hands helps one to
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be identified as a Muslim woman as much as wearing the scarf on
the head.
4.19 The prohibition of men using just one garment
The disapproval of men wearing just one lower garment to cover
the entire body is clarified in the following hadith: „Jabir said:
The Apostle of Allah (May peace be upon him) forbade that a
man should wrap himself completely in a garment with his
hands hidden in it, or sits in a single garment with his hands
around his knees‟ (Abu Dawud. 1985:1139).
This restriction makes sense since using just one cloth to cover
the entire body is insufficient. The risk of exposing oneself is
very high. „Jabir reported that Allah‟s Messenger (May peace
be upon him) forbade that a man should eat with the left hand or
walk with one sandal or wrap himself completely leaving no
opening for arms (to draw out) or support himself when sitting
with a single garment wrapped round his knees which may
expose his private parts‟ (Muslim. 1980:1155).
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4.20 Conclusion
As regards the case of whether or not the Prophet (S.A.W.) wore
red or yellow clothes, it is difficult to come to a final conclusion.
Similarly, there are many other issues that people debate. One of
the more serious, in South Africa, being the length of a man‟s
lower garment and the length of his beard.
The way a Muslim dresses is a matter of personal judgement after
taking into account the Qur‟anic and Hadith injunctions. It should,
in this day and age, not be the criterion used to judge a person‟s
piety. There are more serious issues that need to be addressed in
modern society.
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Chapter Five
Views of Muslim
Scholars
127
CHAPTER FIVE
VIEWS OF MUSLIM SCHOLARS
5.1 Introduction
This chapter analyses the views of various writers on the issue of
Islamic dress. A great number of these scholars promote a dress
code that is strict and rigid based on ahadith and interpretation of
Qur‟anic verses. Others justify a less restrictive view by quoting
other ahadith and presenting a different view on the Qur‟anic
verses.
These scholars, however, agree that the basic requirement for a
woman‟s dress is that she should have a loose, non-transparent
outer covering and a proper head-covering. The debate on whether
or not her face and hands should be covered is an on going one
and it is this argument which is brought to the fore in this chapter.
5.2 Views expressed by Islamic Scholars
The views of the first scholar I have chosen to discuss is Abdul
Rahman Doi, the author of „Women in Shari‟ah‟, wherein he
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claims that although the rules of modesty apply to both men and
women, „on account of the difference between men and women in
nature, temperament and social life, that a greater amount of
veiling is required for women than for men, especially in the
matter of dress‟ (Doi,A.R.1989:13). Although he does not explain
what these differences are in detail, he goes on to elaborate on
how women should dress and emphasizes that women should
wear dresses that are loose fitting and do not display their shapes
and that women should not appear without modest dress in the
presence of anyone “except their
husbands
relatives living in the same house with whom a certain amount
of informality is permissible
women, that is in the strict sense, their maid-servants who are
constantly in attendance to them, but in a more liberal sense,
all believing women
old or infirm male servants and
infants or small children who have not yet a sense of sex”
( Doi,A.R.1989:14)
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Doi quotes various ahahith which state that a woman must cover her
whole body excluding the face and hands and she must not wear a
dress that shows the shape of her body ( Doi,A.R.1989:15).
However, he promotes the views of „some scholars like Muhammad
Nasiruddin al-Albani that because modern times are particularly full
of fitnah (mischief), women should go as far as to cover their faces
because even the face may attract sexual glances from men (Doi, A.R.
1989:15).
Thus, he concludes according to the ahadith, „it suffices too cover the
body leaving out the face and hands up to the wrist joints… with the
face uncovered‟ (Doi,A.R. 1989:19). However, he continues that if a
woman prefers to wear a face – veil by choice, she should not be
discouraged as “this may be a sign of piety and God-consciousness”
(Doi,A.R. 1989: 24).
Doi goes on to explain the situation regarding elderly women. He
quotes Surah 24 verse 60 :
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„Such elderly women as are past the
prospect of marriage, there is no blame
on them if they lay aside their (outer)
garments, provided they make not a
wanton display of their beauty: but It is
best for them to be modest: and God is
one who sees and knows all things‟
(Ali,Y. 1946:916)
He stresses that only women who may be looked at with respect and
veneration are entitled to make use of this concession. If „a woman is
old but still has sexual desires, it is not lawful for her to take off her
over garments‟ (Doi,A.R. 1989:15).
He explains the concept of hijab as a physical separation between men
and women by quoting Surah 33 verse 53.
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„O ye who Believe! Enter not the
Prophet‟s houses,-until leave is given
you, for a meal (and then) not (as early
as) to wait for its preparation: but when
ye are invited, enter: and when you have
taken
your
meal,
disperse
without
seeking familiar talk. Such (behaviour)
annoys The Prophet: he is ashamed to
dismiss you, but God is not ashamed (to
tell you) the truth.
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And when ye
ask (his Ladies) for
anything ye want, ask them from before a
screen: that makes for greater purity for
your hearts and for theirs. Nor is it right
for you that ye should annoy God‟s
apostle or those ye should marry his
widows after him at any time. Truly, such
a thing is in God‟s sight an enormity‟
(Ali,Y. 1946:1124)
Doi uses this verse to justify for the seclusion of women from
society. Men and women cannot meet and mingle with each other in
public or in private. Even looking at each other with a second glance
is prohibited. Islam does allow a first glance, but totally forbids a
second look or a stare. He quotes various ahadith to support this
viewpoint and concludes with the thought that since men are not
allowed to touch another woman‟s body, the practice of shaking hands
when meeting should be stopped. He calls upon the Muslim scholars
to stop this un-Islamic practice in our society(Doi, A.R. 1989:21).
Doi believes that women should focus on their homes and families.
Their main duty is to provide a perfect home for their family. They
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should not go out of their homes unless it is absolutely necessary. He
does allow women to dress the way they desire while they are indoors.
He makes a distinction between a woman‟s beautification and her
exposing her body. He maintains that a woman, even in her own home
can beautify herself without revealing her body. However, he does
excuse a woman from displaying her beauty if she is unable to cover it
even with the required clothes. He gives the example of women
having a good stature, physical build or gait, or women uncovering
their hands or face which may be very attractive ( Doi,A.R. 1989:23).
Doi strongly prohibits women from going to public baths and
swimming pools as these places require the exposing herself by
wearing a swimming costume. Dance-halls and gymnasiums are also
forbidden as they place a similar restriction on the type of clothes that
may be worn.
Doi discourages women from entering a mosque and goes on to quote
various ahadith to support his view. However, he quotes ahadith
which support the fact that women prayed in mosques during the
Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s time, but claims that it is better for women to pray
at home, as they fail to adhere to restrictions regarding dress and
conduct. He maintains that in this day and age, if women are to be
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allowed into the mosque, aside from creating awareness for salaah,
women must wear a large sheet to cover their bodies, wear simple
clothes, no perfume and avoid displaying their ornaments (Doi, A.R.
1989:25).
Although Doi is very thorough in clarifying the Islamic dress code,
Fatima Mernissi, a popular contemporary scholar, provides a different
view in her book „Women and Islam : An Historical and Theological
Enquiry‟. She defines the concept of „Hijab‟ as a physical barrier
between two men and not as traditionally understood as a separation
between men and women. She justifies this viewpoint by explaining
that „the descent of the hijab is an event dating back to the verse 53 of
surah 33 which was revealed during the year 5 of the Heijra (sic)‟.
(Mernissi, F. 1991:85). According to Mernissi, the Hijab descended
on this occasion on two levels. The first being a revelation to the
Prophet (S.A.W.) from Allah in an intellectual realm; and the
dropping of a cloth or curtain that the Prophet (S.A.W.) draws
between himself and Anas ibn Malik, who was at the entrance of his
nuptial chamber at the time of revelation. This was done in order to
provide privacy to the newly wedded Prophet (S.A.W.) and his wife.
Mernissi sees Anas ibn Malik as a symbol of a community that had
become too invasive into the life of the Prophet (S.A.W.) who was too
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polite to tell them otherwise. „The hijab came to give order to a very
confused and complex situation‟ (Mernissi, F. 1991:92).
Mernissi investigates the resurgence of the hijab towards the end of
the 20th century in great detail. She believes that the veil was imposed
on women as a means of protecting them from the increasing
influence of the West. A woman‟s body is a symbolic representation
of the community and it is this same perspective that was adopted by
the Prophet (S.A.W.) in the year 5 A.H. Mernissi is astonished at the
disproportion between the incident of the revelation of the verse and
the response it evoked. She acknowledges that even though this verse
came down merely to indicate a division of Muslim space into private
and public, it has evolved into a separation of the community with
segregation between the sexes. (Mernissi, F. 1991:180)
She goes on to describe the circumstances in Medina causing the
revelation of Surah 33 verse 59.
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O Prophet ! Tell thy wives and
daughters, and the believing women, that
they should cast their outer garments
over their persons (when abroad): that is
most convenient, that they should be
known (as such) and not molested. And
God is oft forgiving, most merciful.
(Ali,Y. 1946:1126)
Women in Medina were being harassed in the streets and were openly
solicited by men who saw them as objects of pleasure. Every woman
was a victim and the excuse of these harassers was to claim confusion
about the identity of the women they approached. The Prophet
(S.A.W.) had to ensure the safety of every Muslim woman in Medina.
Allah (S.W.T.) revealed the verse (Qur‟an:33:59) which made
Muslim women recognizable by pulling their jilbab over themselves.
Although no new forms of clothing were introduced, the mere
wearing of one already in use in a different way made a huge
distinction between Muslim and Non-Muslim women. (Mernissi, F.
1989:185)
137
Mernissi reflects that that hijab was a silent message that women are
vulnerable and defenceless. It is a means of counteracting sexual
advances from men in a society where adultery was permitted. PreIslamic Medina was a place where many different types of „marriages‟
took place. Sex was freely available to men. Women could not refuse
a suitor as this was simply not accepted. Women were forced into
prostitution and slavery. The new Muslim leadership was faced with
having to change these horrendous ideas in a way that would not erupt
into a civil war. „The emergence of women‟s free will was something
that the organization of society had to take into account‟ (Mernissi, F.
1991:184).
According to Mernissi, Prophet Muhammad (S.A.W.) had a dream of
a society where women could move around freely because of the faith
of the Muslims. However, the customs of the hypocrites who treated
women as chattels were the ones adopted by the society of Medina.
Once the hijab was placed on Muslim women, the female population
was divided into two categories: free women against whom violence
was prohibited and slaves towards whom the attitude did not change.
Although the Prophet (S.A.W.) did not like this situation, he had to go
along with it to keep Medina from falling into a civil war. This meant
that the veil that was meant to protect women in the streets was to
138
remain with them through the centuries and throughout the world; no
matter what the security situation of a city was. Mernissi calls this „ a
civil war that would never come to an end‟ (Mernissi, F. 1991:191).
Although there have been women in history which have rejected the
hijab, they have not achieved much success. Mernissi goes into much
detail describing women‟s rights. She discusses the Prophet
(S.A.W.)‟s attitude towards women. She highlights a very liberalminded woman: Sukayna, the great-granddaughter of the Prophet
(S.A.W.), daughter of Husain (R.A.). She was a woman that defied the
restrictions placed on Muslim women at that time. She never pledged
obedience to any of her many husbands and never acknowledged that
men had the right to polygamy. However, there have been many
attempts according to Mernissi‟s personal experiences, to obliterate
the memory of Sukayna, she stands out as an exception to the rule.
Other ladies like the prophet (S.A.W.)‟s wives, Ayesha (R.A.) and
Umm Salama (R.A.) are also mentioned by Mernissi because of their
resistance to be a submissive, marginal creature that only goes out into
the world timidly in her veils (Mernissi, F. 1989:195).
Mernissi concludes by asking why the memory of these strong women
seems so unreal, while the image of the Muslim woman in the eyes of
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the West is that of a seductive slave that must not be seen or heard.
She answers this question by suggesting that only if Muslim men
became more liberated in their views, the role of women will change.
She encourages women to speed up this process through daily
pressure for equality (Mernissi, F.1989:196).
In the book „Hijab - The Islamic Commandments of Hijab‟, Dr
Mohammed Ismail Memon Madani explains the Islamic requirements
for hijab in great detail. He promotes the idea that the verse of hijab
(Qur‟an 33:53) was mandated for all women of Islam, even though
just the wives of the Prophet (S.A.W.) were being addressed. He
justifies this viewpoint by quoting the Qur‟anic verse (65:1):
„O Prophet ! When you do divorce
women, divorce them at their prescribed
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periods, and count (accurately)) their
prescribed periods: and fear God your
Lord: and turn them not out of their
houses, nor shall they leave except in
case they are guilty of some open
lewdness, those are the limits set by God:
and any who transgresses the limit of
God, does verily wrong his (own) soul:
thou knowest not if perchance God will
bring
about
thereafter
some
new
situation‟ (Ali,Y. 1946:1562)
He says that although Allah is addressing the Prophet (S.A.W.) and
his wives, the command holds for all Muslims. He applies the same
reasoning to Qur‟anic verse (33:53).
He also quotes Sa„id Qurtubi: „This verse provides the permission to
ask, from behind a screen (hijab), the wives of the Prophet (S.A.W.)
for any necessary thing, including any matters of religion. And all
Muslim women would be bound by the same rule. Besides this verse,
other principles of Islamic doctrine also tell us that a woman (for her
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honour) deserves to be hidden - her body as well as her voice‟
( Madani, M.I. 1987:5).
Madani drives his point home strongly by quoting Ibn Kathir: „These
are the etiquettes Allah taught the wives of the Prophet (S.A.W.) and
since all of the Muslim Ummah are required to follow their example,
these Commandments are applicable to all Muslim women‟ (Madani,
M.I. 1987:13).
Madani interprets the jilbab as a covering over the face and head. By
quoting well known scholars, like Ibn Mas„ud and Ibn Kathir, he
emphasizes that the jilbab is a separate sheet of cloth that a woman
has to draw over her clothes to hide herself from view in such a way
that her whole body, head and face is covered by this one cloth leaving only one eye open. He quotes Ibn Jarir as, „In this verse, Allah
(S.W.T.) is commanding the Prophet (S.A.W.) to ask his wives, his
daughters and all Muslim women that they should not dress like slave
girls leaving their heads and faces uncovered when they come out of
their homes. Instead, they should cover themselves with a cloak
covering their faces so that nobody will stand in their way and
everyone will know that they are respectable folks‟ (Madani, M.I.
1987:19).
142
Madani makes an interesting claim that famous Qur‟anic interpreters
in the Arab world, „…are the followers of all the four schools of
thought. Thus, regardless of whether they are Hanafi, Shafi, Hambali
or Maliki, all include the hiding of the face in the commandment of
hijab without any disagreement‟ (Madani, M.I. 1987:20).
He goes into great detail about when and how hijab must be worn. He
is very emphatic about the face being part of a woman‟s body that
must be covered. He quotes many ahadith that explain the necessity of
wearing full hijab even at the times of distress and during medical
treatment. He even recommends „wearing a hat with a projected flap
around and wearing a veil on top of it in a way that the veil does not
touch the face‟ (Madani, M.I. 1987:46).
He makes no concession for ladies when they are in the presence of
their in-laws; even if they are from the same household. He believes
that women may not go out unless absolutely necessary. „There is so
much emphasis placed on women to stay in their homes that their
open participation in the important worship like salat (sic) and
necessities like funerals and burials is not considered desirable‟
(Madani, M.I. 1987:54).
143
Madani categorizes hijab into two areas : Remaining at home and by
burqa, which means the covering of the body with a cloth. He
substantiates his argument that women should stay at home, by
quoting many ahadith from Bukhari. However he says, „ …when a
woman has to come out of her home under necessity, she is required
to emerge wrapped in a long sheet of cloth from head to toe which
does not reveal any part of her body‟ (Madani, M.I. 1987:95).
Presenting a different view is a contemporary South African writer, R.
Vania, of „Purdah and other controversial issues : An alternative
perspective.‟. Vania believes that it is permissible for males and
females to interact „as long as there is no fear of evil prompting‟
(Vania, R. 1997:7). He justifies this statement by quoting the
Qur‟anic verse (3:61):
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If anyone disputes in this matter with
thee, now after (full) knowledge hath
come to thee, say: “Come! let us gather
together, our sons and your sons, our
women and your women, ourselves and
yourselves: then let us earnestly pray and
invoke the curse of God on those who
lie!” (Ali,Y. 1946:138)
This verse clearly shows that at certain times, men and women from
different groups may get together to perform certain respectable
actions and ceremonies. Vania feels that the „cause of Islam will be
better served if we teach our young men and women to honour
themselves and one another‟ (Vania, R. 1997: 8).
Vania refutes ahadith that enjoin the covering of a woman‟s face as
defective and he quotes a hadith in „Sahih Al-Bukhari (vol 4, no 319)
which reads: „Narrated Anas bin Malik that he and Abu Talha came
in the company of the Prophet (S.A.W.) and Safiya was accompanying
the Prophet (S. A. W.), who let her ride behind him on his she-camel.
During the journey, the she-camel slipped and both the Prophet
(S.A.W.) and his wife fell down. Abu Talha (the sub-narrator) thinks
145
that Anas said that Abu Talha jumped from his she-camel and said :
„O Allah‟s Apostle ! May Allah sacrifice me for your sake. Did you get
hurt?‟ The Prophet (S.A.W.) replied, „No but take care of the lady.‟
Abu Talha covered his face with his garment and proceeded towards
her and covered her with his garment, and she got up …..‟ (Vania, R.
1997:11).
Vania questions why this hadith does not form the basis for men
covering their faces in the presence of women, just like the men from
the Touareg tribe of the Sahara Desert.
He goes on to describe the headband that pre-Islamic Arab women
used to wear. It was tied in a knot behind the head exposing the
bosom. He also promotes the concept of using this head covering to
cover the bosom or wearing another cloak over the clothes to ensure
the whole body is covered.
Regarding Surah 33 verse 53, in which the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s wives
have to be addressed from behind a veil, Vania maintains that this is
an injunction only on the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s wives because they
occupy a unique position in Islam. To further substantiate this point,
he quotes Surah 33 verse 50:
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O Prophet ! We have made lawful to
thee thy wives to whom thou hast paid
their dowers; and those whom thy right
hand possesses out of the prisoners of
war whom God has assigned to thee and
daughters of thy paternal uncles and
Aunts and daughters of thy maternal
uncles and aunts, who migrated (from,
Mecca) with thee and any believing
woman who dedicates her soul to the
Prophet if the Prophet wishes to wed her;
this only for thee and not for the
147
Believers ( at large); we know what we
have appointed for them as to their wives
and the captives whom their right hands
posses : in order that there should be no
difficulty for you and God is oft forgiving
most merciful. (Ali,Y. 1946:1121)
Vania emphasizes that there is no evidence for the purdah-system or
even the face cover in the Qur‟an. He further maintains that there is
no explicit command for even the head cover. „It is required that both
sexes behave with modesty, respect and dignity with each other.‟ and
that „Tight-fitting or see-through clothing is unacceptable‟ (Vania,R.
1997:18). He even derides the wearing of plain black by Muslim
women who have sought to justify it as an Islamic uniform. To
emphasize, he quotes the Qur‟anic verse (7:31):
O children of Adam ! wear your beautiful
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apparel at every time and place of
prayer:eat and drink: but waste not by
excess, for God loveth not the wasters.
(Ali,Y:1946:347)
Famous British writer, Dr. Jamal A. Badawi, wrote a book called „The
Muslim Woman‟s dress according to the Qur‟an and Sunnah‟. Here,
he simply and clearly defines the basic requirements of a woman‟s
dress as being loose and not see-through. He motivates this as an
obvious way to hiding a woman‟s body. „Even moderately tight
clothes which cover the whole body does describe the shape of such
attractive parts of the woman‟s body as the bust line, the waist, the
buttocks, the back and the thighs. If these are not part of the natural
beauty or zeenah what else is?‟ (Badawi, J.1980:7).
Although he recommends the wearing of a cloak over the woman‟s
undergarments, he declares that if a woman‟s clothing meets the
„Islamic standards‟, it suffices (without a cloak) even for the validity
of prayers (Badawi, J. 1980:7).
Badawi explains the concept of a woman‟s zeenah as her natural,
bodily beauty on the one hand and her artificial adornment such as
149
jewellery and clothes. For this reason, he says that a woman‟s dress
should not be such that it attracts the attention of the male. He also
quotes ahadith that a woman‟s face and hands could be allowed to
stay open (Badawi, J. 1980:8).
Interestingly, Badawi translates juyubihinna from (Qur‟an:33:59) to
be the plural form of the Arabic word jaib which is a derivative of
jawb meaning „cutting‟ (Badawi, J. 1980:8). He says that this refers to
the neck slit of a woman‟s dress. Badawi therefore includes the
woman‟s neck and bosom in what needs to be covered by the head
cover. He also includes a few additional requirements for both men
and women:
The dress of either sex must not imitate the opposite sex.
Dress should not be similar to the unbelievers. It should be such
that it identifies a person as a believer.
Dress should not be so extravagant and expensive that it may be
used as a status symbol (Badawi,J. 1980:8).
In conclusion, Badawi calls upon husbands, fathers and mothers to
teach, show and help to fulfil the will of Allah (S.W.T.), since it „is
not coercion, or force which is likely to bring about obedience to
150
Allah (S.W.T.). It is but, the love of Allah (S.W.T.), the acceptance of
his guidance as the supreme Truth, even if it is contrary to one‟s
personal opinions, that will bring about change‟ (Badawi, J.1980:11).
Another famous writer, Afzalur Rahman, in the „Role of Muslim
women in Society‟, expresses views that take women‟s different
geographical, cultural, social and economic situations into account
before prescribing their mode of dressing.
He quotes the Qur‟anic verse (33:33) :
And stay quietly in your houses, and make
not a dazzling display, like that of former
times of Ignorance; and establish regular
prayer, and give regular charity; and obey
God and His Apostle. And God only wishes
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to remove abomination from you, ye
members of the Family, and to make you
pure and spotless. (Ali,Y.1946:1115)
Afzalur Rahman claims that this verse, when specifying the conduct
of the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s wives refers specifically to them because of
the situation they found themselves in and not to the rest of the
Muslim women in Medina. „In no way could this obligatory duty of
the wives of the Prophet (S.A.W.) be forcibly thrust upon other Muslim
women as a compulsory duty‟ (Rahman,A. 1986:422). However, he
goes on to say that, should women adopt the dress code, that has been
prescribed for the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s wives, as their own choice, it is
considered as an „act of charity and a noble gesture on their part‟
(Rahman,A. 1986:422).
Rahman quotes the Qur‟anic verse (24:31):
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And say to the Believing women that they
should lower their gaze and guard their
modesty; that they should not display
their beauty and ornaments except what
(must ordinarily) appear thereof; that
they should draw their veils over their
bosoms and that they should not display
their beauty except to their husbands,
their fathers, their husband‟s fathers,
their sons, their husband‟s sons, their
153
brothers or their brother‟s sons or their
sister‟s sons, or their women, or their
slaves whom their right hands posses or
male servants free of physical needs or
small children who have no sense of
the shame of sex; and that they should
not strike their feet in order to draw
attention to their hidden ornaments. And
o ye Believers! Turn ye all together
towards God that ye may attain Bliss.
(Ali,Y. 1946:905)
Afzalur Rahman says that should there have been a need for women to
cover their faces, it would not have been necessary to add these few
words in the end of this verse. „He could have simply commanded
them to cover their faces with a veil (Rahman,A. 1986:422). He
questions who has the authority to go beyond the scope of the Qur‟an
and prescribe the full hijab, which was only obligatory to the Prophet
(S.A.W.)‟s wives. He maintains that the imposition of the face veil
has come about through later customs and traditions followed by
women in the early Islamic era.
154
Wahiduddin Khan, in his translation of Muhammad Nasiruddin AlAlbani‟s, „Hijab al-Mar‟ah al-Muslimah fil Kitab was-Sunnah‟,
quotes Al-Albani as recommending that the woman‟s face does not
need to be covered based on several ahadith and Qur‟anic verses. AlAlbani also states that the clothing of a woman should not be a source
of attraction, nor must it be tight-fitting or see-through. He also
excludes perfume and imitating men and disbelievers in dress
(Khan,W.1995:138).
Khan also quotes Shabbir Ahmed Usmani, from his „Attafsir alUthmani‟, when commenting on Surah 24 verses 31: „Men are
forbidden to set eyes on them. Perhaps this is why, before exempting
women from covering their face and hands (verse 31), men are
commanded to lower their gaze and guard their modesty in verse 30.
Thus, the permission to unveil a part of the body does not give licence
to others to set their eyes on them‟ (Khan,W. 1995:149).
Syed Mutawalli Ad-Darsh, author of „Hijab or Niqab:An Islamic
Critique of the face-veil.‟, believes that the purdah system is not
Islamic and calls it a purely non-religious Arab custom. He believes
that women in early Islam were not totally confined to their homes
because they came out during times of economic, social and religious
155
necessity. However, when they did come out, they did so, dressed in a
way that did not draw attention to themselves. Furthermore, Ad-Darsh
believes that when the Qur‟an (33:33) states that women should
remain in their homes, it is referring to pre-Islamic Arabia when
women moved about freely and mixed with strangers. The aim of this
verse was to get women to behave more modestly and pay more
attention to their duties at home (Ad-Darsh,S.M. 2003:40).
Ad-Darsh goes on to discuss the word jilbab in great detail quoting
Alusi, author of „Ruh al-Ma‟ani‟ who believes jilbab is a long loose
gown which covers a woman‟s body from the neck to the feet (AdDarsh, S.M.2003:41).
Ad-Darsh defines four basic points regarding hijab :
Women in pre-Islamic Arabia were being molested and
harassed in the streets.
Women did not cover themselves adequately.
These conditions prevailed during the early days of Islam.
Islam enjoined on women to put on an over garment to avoid
being harassed and be recognized.
156
„Now, if the social morality of any country has advanced to the stage
where women coming out of their homes are not interfered with or
teased, then the first ground on which women were ordered to wear a
long over garment disappears‟ (Ad-Darsh, S.M. 2003:41).
Ad-Darsh maintains that, even in modern countries, women must be
prevented from displaying and exhibiting their bodily charms despite
the historical context. For this reason, it is still necessary to cover the
ordinary clothes with a long over garment.
He goes on to quote many ahadith that claim that the covering of the
hands and the face is not necessary. However, „barring the face, the
hands and the feet, all other parts, including the neck, should be
completely covered and a long over garment put on which leaves no
part of the body exposed‟ (Ad-Darsh, S.M. 2003:45).
Ad-Darsh provides a thorough discussion on the opinions offered by
commentators like al-Tabari, al-Baghawi, Ibn Kathir and al-Jalalayn.
Each of these express conflicting views about the need to cover the
hands and face, but Ad-Darsh points out that „it seems that the
mufassirun generally agreed on uncovering the face and hands, but
157
they disagreed on whether non-Mahrams are allowed to look at
them‟(Ad-Darsh, S.M. 2003:48).
Ad-Darsh also discussed the rules and regulations employed by jurists
like al-Qurtubi and al-Jassas. He concludes that after detailed scrutiny
of their works, „the majority of muffasirun, in fact, do not regard the
face and hands as awrah‟ (Ad-Darsh, S.M. 2003:53)
Ad-Darsh has also analysed several books of hadith and fiqh on this
topic. He mentions that in one of the great Hanafi textbooks, „Bad alSana‟ ifi tartib al-Shar‟ia‟ by al-Kasani, Imam Abu Hanafi allows
women to leave the hands and face uncovered while the rest of her
body must be clothed. Women, on the other hand, are forbidden to
look at what is between the navel and the knees of a man as this is part
of his awrah. Abu Hanifa also stated that it is not necessary to cover
the two feet. Imam Malik views it as permissibile to leave the face and
hands exposed.
Ad-Darsh quotes al-Nawawi from his explanatory notes of Imam
Shafi‟s „Sharh al-Muhaththab‟ „as for the free woman, her awrah is
her whole body except the face and two hands…..‟ (Ad-Darsh, S.M.
2003:96).
158
The book of Imam Hanbali, „Al-Mughini‟, compiled by Qudamah
mentions that a man must cover the area between the navel and the
knee. It is allowed for a woman to keep her face and hands uncovered
– just as she is allowed to do so during prayers. Most Hanbali scholars
agree that the face may be uncovered. However, some disagree on
whether or not her hands should be covered.
Ad-Darsh concludes that even though the consensus of all Muslim
scholars is that a Muslim woman must cover her body, the majority of
them are of the opinion that it is not obligatory to cover the face and
hands. Those who advocate the use of the face veil base their opinions
on rules provided for the members of the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s
household. He says, as a final word, that Islam protects the „dignity
and honour of the Muslim woman, at the same time, she is given the
practical opportunity to go about her daily life in education, in work,
in participation in public life, in a decent, proper and relaxed
manner‟ (Ad-Darsh, S.M. 2003:105).
5.3 Conclusion
The issue of a woman‟s dress has been debated a great detail over the
past centuries. However, almost all documented discussion on this
159
issue has been that of males. There is very little or no records of what
women feel on this issue and whether they agree with the respective
views or not.
The fact that there seems to be a consensus that the basis of Islamic
hijab is that women must wear a separate loose outer covering that
does not reveal the shape of her body as well as a head covering that
covers the entire ear-neck and bosom area. Going further and covering
the hands and face, although not in the Qur‟an, is a common practice
among Muslim women in the Middle East. It is a growing trend for
some women in South Africa. It is a step taken by women that further
testifies to the extent of their desire to please Allah (S.W.T.). They do
not see it as repressive or restrictive, instead, it is a way to show their
higher level of piety and their devotion to the laws of Islam.
160
Chapter Six
Conclusion
161
CHAPTER SIX
CONCLUSION
6.1 Introduction
Allah (S. W. T.) chose the day of the marriage of the Prophet
(S.A.W.) to Zaynab bint Jahash, during the fifth year after hijrah, to
legislate the proper conduct of the public towards the Prophet
(S.A.W)‟s household. The hijab verse, revealed by Allah (S.W.T.), on
this occasion served as a guideline for all people on how to address
the wives of the Prophet (S.A.W.) and to shield them from the eyes of
all the visitors to his home.
Many Muslim interpreters state that the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s wives
took an active role in the community of Medina until the hijab verse
was revealed. These ladies were living in quarters that were mere
extentions of the masjid, which was the centre of public activity. The
hijab verse thus served as a means to provide domestic comfort and
privacy to the females in the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s household.
The hijab has been seen as a protective device especially during the
political strife during 5 A.H. Although this verse ensured that the
162
women in the Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s household obtained physical
security and privacy, it also implied the seclusion of these women and
their removal from society.
Soon after the revelation of the hijab verse, Allah (S.W.T.)
commanded Muslim women to cover themselves with their jilbab so
that they may be recognized as Muslim women and not be harassed in
the streets. This piece of legislation differed from the hijab verse, in
that, it firstly referred to women appearing in public, who were not
secluded in their homes. Secondly, it applied to all Muslim women,
not just the wives of the Prophet (S.A.W.).
This dissertation has dealt with the concept of hijab on two levels.
The first being the literal meaning and use of the word in the Qur‟an
including its use during the time of the Prophet (S.A.W.). The second
level discussed is the evolution of the concept of hijab throughout
time, resulting in a different concept of hijab today.
6.2 Chapter One – Introduction
This chapter is an introduction to the concept of hijab. There is a
scarcity of literature available on the issue of hijab today. This is the
motivation for choosing to undertake research on this aspect. It
163
presents motivation for choosing this topic, the literature available, the
concepts of hijab and a brief introduction to each chapter.
6.3 Chapter Two - An Historical Background of Hijab
Chapter Two presents a detailed history of the dress code
implemented by ancient Phoenicians, Egyptians, Greeks and Romans.
Many similarities between the dress code adopted by these ancient
civilizations and the dress code prescribed by Islam are noted. It is
observed that the long loose-fitting dress with a head covering of
some sort was favoured by the women of these civilizations. The
covering of the head was seen to be favoured by the upper class and
aristocratic women such as Queen Nemes and Isis, Queen of the
goddesses, because it was a symbol of their status.
Men also favoured the long loose-fitting dress-like outfit with a
symbolic head covering. Kings and rulers were in favour of sporting a
beard. This is an image of Islamic dress as prescribed by the ahadith
of the Prophet (S.A.W.)
The origin of the Islamic dress code during the time of the Prophet
(S.A.W.) and the beginning of seclusion of women in the early
Islamic era is also explored in this chapter.
164
Developments regarding the veil during the Middle Ages through to
the nineteenth century are outlined here. Many new viewpoints from
scholars are discussed. Some, like Al-Mawdudi and the scholars from
the „Abbasid Dynasty, were in favour of the total seclusion and
covering of the face and hands of women. Others, like Qasim Amin,
Mustafa Kemal Ataturk and Reza Shah Pahlavi forced women to
abandon the veil and go out of their homes without any hijab. During
this time, hijab took on a new symbolic gesture. It became a means of
judging a woman‟s piety and devotion to her religion. It was a tool
used by many to show their progress towards a more modern
perspective of a more liberal Islam.
When explaining the current concept of hijab chapter two looks at the
way of dressing in many important Islamic and Non-Islamic countries
like: Afghanistan, Iran, Jerusalem, Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Indonesia and
South Africa.
Hijab is used in the modern world as a means of showing affiliation
towards a certain school of thought. In its attempt to globalize the
world, the West has unwittingly caused a strong inclination for
women to adorn the hijab so that they may be identified as Muslims
who are proud of their religion. These women show their
165
unwillingness to compromise their religion by sticking strictly to
wearing the hijab, which today is symbolized by merely covering the
head with a scarf.
6.4 Chapter Three – Islamic Dress code according to the Qur’an
Chapter three deals with the literal meaning of the word hijab as it is
used in the Qur‟an. The word is used in eight different verses of the
Qur‟an which were explained in detail through the translations and
interpretations of prominent scholars like: Ibn Kathir, Abdulla Yusuf
Ali, Marmaduke Pickthall, Mohsin Khan, Rodwell and Palmer.
Other Qur‟anic concepts related to the issue of hijab were also
discussed. Both the lexical and traditional use of words like akinna,
khimara, juyubihinna. Jalabeebihinna and yudneena were explained
in great detail.
6.5 Chapter Four – The dress code in Prophetic tradition
This chapter deals with the concept of hijab as recorded in the books
ahadith by various scholars. It provides a good description of the
dress code prescribed by the Prophet (S.A.W.) himself.
166
The books of scholars such as Bukhari, Muslim, Abu Dawud,
Tirmidhi and Malik have been consulted.
Details regarding the length of a garment, wearing of silk, growing a
beard, type of shoes and the colour of clothes are examined and
clearly outlined in this chapter.
The Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s recommendations relating to the wearing of
gold and silver jewels are also described. Concepts relating to his
favourite garment and the type of cloth he preferred are discussed
together with his dislike for showing off with expensive clothes and
imitating others with dress.
The Prophet (S.A.W.)‟s recommendation that Muslims should wear
the best of clothes, without pride and extravagance, is explored
through the recordings of various different scholars.
The chapter discusses in great detail about how much of the body of
both men and women must be covered. It highlights and clarifies the
requirements regarding the hair, its colouring, cutting and even
covering.
167
Then the views of the Prophet (S.A.W.) regarding the dress code of all
Muslims regardless of age, nationality, race or gender are explained.
6.6 Chapter Five - Views of Muslim Scholars
The diverse views expressed by contemporary scholars are discussed
in this chapter. Firstly, the views of Abdur Rahman Doi are discussed
in detail. He subscribes to the idea that women need not cover their
faces and hand according to the laws of Islam, but if a woman wanted
to adopt the hijab on her own, and then it bore testimony to her faith
and devotion to her religion.
Then the views of Fatima Mernissi are discussed. She maintains
women were required to adorn the veil as a means of protection from
Western influence. Furthermore, she explicates in great detail why the
hijab was imposed on women during the time of the Prophet (S.A.W.)
and its imposition on women by various leaders for different political
reasons.
Mohammed Ismail Madani holds the view that the rules pertaining to
hijab was not specific to the wives of the Prophet (S.A.W.) but
included all Muslim women. He maintains that a woman must be
covered fully, from head to foot, leaving only one eye open.
168
Furthermore, a woman‟s place is at home and she should not venture
out unless it is absolutely necessary. He advocates that should the
women leave their homes, they must ensure that they are completely
covered.
The contemporary South African writer, Rashid Vania, presents a
different view. He does not believe that the veil should cover a
woman‟s face. He maintains that women should be more careful about
how they conduct themselves in the company of males, instead of
stressing on their dressing. He then quotes ahadith to support this
viewpoint. However, he does mention that women should cover their
heads with a scarf and wear a loose-fitting cloak over their clothes.
His views and justifications are discussed in greater detail.
Thereafter, the views of British writer, Jamal Badawi, are discussed.
He maintains that a woman need not cover her face and hands but that
her clothes should be loose enough not to show the shape of her body.
The head and chest must be covered simply because it helps to
identify her as a Muslim woman.
169
Then the views of other scholars like Afzalur Rahman, Wahiduddeen
Khan and Syed Mutawalli ad-Darsh who express similar views are
discussed.
6.7 Final Conclusion
After research and examining the writings of various Muslim scholars
from different eras, it may be concluded that even though the issue of
women‟s dress has been extensively discussed and debated, no
uniform consensus has ever been reached.
There are those who, on the one extreme, have the conservative view
that women must cover their bodies totally, leaving only one eye
open. Then there are those who, on the other extreme, believe that a
woman‟s dress is of no significance. As Muslims, we have to decide,
through deep reflection, what suits us, as individuals living in modern
society, without compromising our religion. This is a huge task and a
daily battle fought on every level with every decision taken.
170
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