Frommer's Thailand

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The Best of Thailand

From the temples of Wat Pho and The Grand Palace through to Thailand’s Khao Yai and Doi Inthanon national parks and Ko Hong rock, to scuba diving in Ko Pha Ngan and the white, sandy beaches of Hua Hin, Thailand is a land of variety. The country has plenty to satisfy single travelers, couples, or families, from Bangkok’s shopping and nightlife to adventure sports in the northern hills or a pampering spa at a beach resort. All topped off with the famous Thai hospitality: their smiles and irresistible, laid-back attitude.

CITIES, TOWNS & Coast   Begin in Bangkok, with its chaotic mix of ancient temples and modern glass towers, street markets and stylish shopping malls, tuk-tuks, and river taxis. Then head north to the venerable, walled city of Chiang Mai for a peek at the capital of the region once known as the Kingdom of a Million Rice Fields, but leave at least a few days to sprawl on a beach.

COUNTRYSIDE   Go trekking or white-water rafting in the northern hills that are home to brightly dressed hill-tribes; cycle round the ancient cities of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai in the Central Plains; pick from over a hundred national parks to explore; or cruise along the Andaman or Gulf coast in search of stunning dive sites.

EATING & DRINKING   Thai cuisine is enough reason in itself to visit the country, and whether you crave the brow-mopping challenge of a fiery tom yam or an aromatic bowl of noodles in broth, you’ll find it all here. Learn to eat like the Thais, squatting on low stools at street-side food stalls, but treat yourself at least once to a gourmet feast on starched tablecloths, served by waiters in traditional dress.

best authentic experiences

Chatting with monks: Thai temples rank high on most travelers’ hit lists, but many are surprised to find the experience can be an interactive one. Many monks are eager to practice their English; and some temples even have set times for monk chats, open to visitors of all religious backgrounds for one-on-one talks. See p. 321.

Speaking Thai for the first time: You’ll stumble over your first dozen attempts at sawasdee (hello) or khop khun (thank you), and you might even confuse your khun (said by men) and your ka (said by women). But it won’t matter once you notice how much your effort is appreciated. See p. 426 for a list of Thai phrases.

Bargaining: Many Western visitors are shy about offering a lower price than advertised for goods, but bargaining is the norm in Thailand. Start by offering 50 to 70% of the item’s stated price and increase your offer as the vendor decreases the sale price to reach an agreement, but don’t haggle about just a few baht.

Riding in a tuk-tuk: Thais do it out of necessity, while foreigners do it for the thrill of roaring round town in these screaming, open-sided, brightly decorated vehicles. Savvy drivers know there’s money to be made from foreigners, so bargain to get a reasonable price. See p. 63.

Taking your first bite of street food: Squat on a low stool, embrace the sweat dripping down your brow, and enjoy a street-side meal. Don’t worry about language problems. Simply point to an appealing dish, settle down, and dig in. Once that unbeatable combination of perfectly balanced sweet, salty, bitter, and spicy hits your lips, it won’t matter what language you speak because your mouth will be too full to speak. For tips on choosing clean street food vendors, see p. 94.

Watching Thai boxing (Muay Thai): Half the fun of watching a Muay Thai match is the passion displayed by the peanut gallery. You’ll probably watch the audience more than the boxers themselves, as they flail their fists in the air and scream encouragement for their chosen athlete. Join in the fun and root for the same fighter as the locals around you. See p. 50.

Tasting durian for the first time: Thais call durian the king of fruits. It is the single-most controversial fruit in Asia, and most hotels charge cleaning fees if you eat it in your room. To some, it smells like a pair of old socks or a dirty gym bag (hungry yet?) but the creamy taste and smooth texture is irresistible to many. Trying it is a rite of passage.

best Family experiences

Relaxing on a sandy beach: If there’s one thing that kids and adults can agree on is that there’s nothing that says vacation quite as powerfully as a white-sand beach fronted by an emerald sea. The island of Ko Chang (p. 155) offers that, along with plenty of land- and sea-based of excursions and activates to keep everyone entertained.

Befriending restaurant staff: In fact, you won’t need to befriend them as they’ll befriend your kids first, and they’ll probably amuse the children while you enjoy your dinner in peace.

Visiting the Siam Museum: Kids are often bored silly by museums, but Bangkok’s Museum of Siam is not so much about ancient history as what it means to be a Thai, and as such is interesting to all ages. Its has tons of hands-on exhibits, plus chances to dress up in period costume and see how accurately one can fire a cannon. See p. 110.

Visiting a floating market: In bygone days, much of Thailand’s commerce took place on canals, and floating vendors sold everything from farming implements to bowls of noodles. These vendors’ skills have not been lost, and though floating markets such as the one at Damnoen Saduak (p. 135) are now geared mostly to tourists, a ride around the canals looking at the fruits and flowers on sale is a great adventure for kids.

Watching wildlife: And by that we mean doing so in one of Thailand’s national parks. Specifically, tours of Khao Yai National Park (see p. 137) accommodate families with kids of all ages, and the knowledgeable guides will have the entire brood on the lookout for elephants and rare birds.

Riding the Skytrain in Bangkok: It was built to alleviate Bangkok’s traffic problems, but it could just as easily have been designed to help visitors get to know Bangkok. Grab a window seat and watch the city sail by from 20m (65 ft.) above ground. See p. 60.

Going eye to eye with a parrotfish: Diving is one of the most popular activities in Thailand, but even snorkelers will be blown away by the colorful wonderland that lies just below the surface of the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand. The best place to learn to dive? Ko Tao (p. 217). A great spot for snorkeling? Ko Surin (p. 262).

Thailand’s best Museums

Hall of Opium (Chiang Rai): The Golden Triangle in northern Thailand is no longer the drug-smuggling hotbed that it once was, but the fascination with the opium-growing days still blooms. Multimedia and sensory exhibits guide visitors through the wild history of kingpins, cartels, and the 5,000-year chronicle of poppy growing and opium trade in Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos. See p. 387.

The Jim Thompson House (Bangkok): A visit to the home of Thailand’s most famous expat and the founding father of the Thai silk trade. Thompson cobbled this teak treasure from old homes around the region and reassembled it in Bangkok before he mysteriously disappeared in the Malaysian jungle in 1967. Wandering the gardens and taking a tour of the house is a charming way to spend an hour and a half. See p. 109.

Bangkok Art & Cultural Centre (Bangkok): The BACC lacks a permanent collection, which means there is always something new to see. The nine floors of display space bring a rotating showcase of exciting contemporary exhibits. Private collections and up-and-coming Asian artists are on regular rotation, and the cultural center is a nice place to do some last-minute shopping. See p. 107.

Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Bangkok): The crowds at the Grand Palace can get overwhelming, which is why too many tourists, making a quick exit, miss this gem. It displays many of the queen’s formal gowns from over the years, and offers visitors a greater understanding of the Thai silk industry and the craftsmanship that goes into making these exquisite dresses. Plus it’s not nearly as crowded as the rest of the palace! See p. 106.

MAIIAM Contemporary Museum (Chiang Mai): Chaing Mai is an art lovers’ paradise, supporting a vibrant local community of artists and gallery owners. The city’s artsy hub is the MAIIAM Contemporary Museum, which has traditional art galleries to as well as spaces for performance art, film screenings, educational talks, and fashion and design exhibits. See p. 323.

Thailand’s best Architectural Landmarks

Wat Arun: Close your eyes and conjure up an image of a Thai temples. No doubt something resembling this breathtaking riverside beaut will spring to mind. Sunrise is the best time to view the Temple of Dawn, one of Bangkok’s iconic sights. See p. 113.

Ayutthaya: Just a hop and a skip from Bangkok, Ayutthaya is Thailand’s most visited historical sight, and this former capital of the kingdom doesn’t disappoint. Its crooked stupas and broken Buddha images evoke a long-lost era. Look for the stone carving of Buddha’s face picturesquely ensnarled in the roots of a bodhi tree, as if designed to be that way all those years and years ago. See p. 283.

Sukhothai: Capital of the first true Siamese kingdom, Sukhothai (meaning the dawn of happiness) is an inspiring place to visit. Slender stupas pierce the sky, and graceful, jointless Buddhas are sculpted in mid-stride. If you can, time your visit to coincide with the Loy Krathong Festival, when the clock seems to rewind time almost 800 years. See p. 299.

The walls of old Chiang Mai: Originally the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, Chiang Mai is steeped in over 700 years of history, and a stroll around its ancient city walls, gates, and moat gives a sense of how things used to be. For an extra challenge, see if you can track down the outer ring of earthen ramparts (kamphaeng din), some parts of which still exist. When you find them, slurp down a bowl of khao soi to celebrate. See p. 311.

Thailand’s best Beaches

Nai Thon Beach (Phuket): Patong might be Phuket’s best-known strip of sand, but Nai Thon gets this beach bum’s vote for prettiest on the island (and there’s some stiff competition!). It’s a perfect, 500-m (1,640-ft.) arc of golden sand lapped by turquoise waters and protected by two rocky headlands. Oh, and I almost forgot the best thing about it—there’s hardly anyone there. See p. 250.

Loh Dalam Beach (Ko Phi Phi): The north-facing beach of Phi Phi Don’s two back-to-back beaches forms a perfect horseshoe and is fringed by blinding white sands. It’s very shallow, so not too good for swimming, but if you take a walk out in the bay as the sea recedes at low tide, you’ll enter a wonderland of corals, sea urchins, and sea anemones, without even needing a mask and snorkel. See p. 274.

Ao Nang (Krabi): Though it’s known to most people as a jumping-off pier for nearby Railay Beach, Ao Nang is much less crowded and has more options for dining and shopping, so is better suited to families. The beach itself is fine and safe for kids, but it’s also easy to take boat trips to the many islands in Phang Nga Bay from here. See p. 268.

Had Sai Khao (White Sand Beach, Ko Chang): This west-facing beach, with its gorgeous powder-soft sand and fringe of palm trees, fits anyone’s notion of paradise, particularly when there’s a sinking sun setting the sky ablaze. There’s a wide choice of places to stay and eat, and it’s long enough to get away from the crowds. See p. 157.

Thailand’s most colorful Festivals

Songkran: Thailand’s traditional New Year festival lasts for a week or more, though it’s officially only April 12 to 14. Often called the Water-Splashing Festival, it involves lots of playful fun with spray guns and buckets. Kids love it and it’s worth planning a holiday around. See p. 40.

Loy Krathong: Thailand’s second-biggest festival, usually in November, involves floating candle-lit krathong on rivers and waterways throughout the kingdom. Without a doubt the most visually beautiful of all Thai festivals, it marks the end of the rains and beginning of the cool season, a great time to be in Thailand. See p. 40.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival: The highlight of this eye-popping spectacle is when devotees parade the streets with skewers, swords, and drill bits stuck through their cheeks. Don’t attend if you’d be disturbed by such scenes; do attend if you’ve got a strong stomach and want to see some unforgettable sights. What does this have to do with going meat-free? Eating a clean diet and self-inflicted pain is a way of purifying the body. See p. 232.

Chiang Mai Flower Festival: Taking place in February, when the maximum number of flowers are in bloom in North Thailand, this festival features floats smothered with bright-colored and sweet-smelling blossoms, accompanied by proud representatives from local schools and businesses dressed in elaborate costumes. See p. 316.

The best Gifts to Bring Home

Textiles: Thai silk is of a consistently high quality, and different regions of the country are famed for different weaving styles and designs. Tailored items of clothing make great souvenirs, but don’t overlook garments made of local cotton and hemp, which are more comfortable to wear in a hot climate.

Home decor: Thai designs display a flair that is admired worldwide, and small, packable items of home decor make ideal gifts. A bamboo and sa paper lantern weighs next to nothing, a set of table mats in a striking design is similarly packable, as is a compact set of coasters.

Lacquerware: Though the process of making lacquerware is long and laborious, the finished product is both distinctively Thai and very light to carry. Bowls and plates, trays, jewelry boxes, and decorative animals are just a few top picks.

Silverware: Thai silverware, particularly that made by the northern hill-tribes, is highly valued for its comparative purity and quality artistry. Common items include jewelry (earrings, pendants, and bracelets, and even belts) and embossed bowls showing scenes from Thai history.

Ceramics: Like woodcarvings, ceramics are bad news when it comes to baggage allowance, but some items are so beautiful that you may be tempted to ship them home. Look out for vases, plates, and trays made of celadon, which has a distinctive pale-green color and a cracked glaze. Most store owners can arrange shipping or give directions to the nearest post office or DHL branch.

best Small-Town Thailand Experiences

Looking down over Mae Hong Son from Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu: From this temple on a hill, the entire town of Mae Hong Son, including Jong Kham Lake and the Burmese-style temples on its shores, is spread below you. That is when the town isn’t socked in by cloud; its nickname is muang sam mork (City of three mists). See p. 370.

Exploring Thailand’s oldest town: Lamphun, just south of Chiang Mai in the north, claims to be Thailand’s oldest continually inhabited town. Wander around the largely intact city wall, pay your respects to the statue of city founder Queen Chamadhevi, and visit the temple named after her that has a stupas built in the Dharavati period, over 1,000 years ago. See p. 349.

Hiding out in Loei: If you want to give tourists the slip, make a beeline for Loei (p. 397), a sleepy but friendly town in Isan without any big attractions but heaps of local charm. Beautiful scenery awaits along the Mekong Valley to Nong Khai (p. 398) route, or you can put on your hiking boots and trek to the top of Phu Kradung (p. 397), a great place to live out the laidback Thai attitude of no worries (mai pen rai).

Seeing the sun rise over a sea of mist: It’s only possible in the north and during the cool season, but it’s a sight to remember—the sun emerging from a sea of mist in the valley below. Spectacular sights include the Mae Hong Son loop (p. 359) and from the summit of Doi Luang Chiang Dao (p. 353).

Monkeying around in Lopburi: Situated just north of Ayutthaya, Lopburi was a favorite summer residence of former kings, particularly King Narai (r. 1656–88). It’s worth visiting King Narai’s Palace as well as Khmer-inspired Phra Prang Sam Yot, which is a favorite hang-out for the hordes of macaques that live here. See p. 292.

Crossing the bridge over the River Kwai at Kanchanaburi: Before you cross the bridge on a special train to Hellfire Pass, pay your respects at the town’s immaculately maintained Allied War Cemetery. You’ll work out from the gravestones that many of those who died building the Death Railway were only teenagers. Take a tour of the Thailand–Burma Railway Center to learn more about what happened here. See p. 137.

Kicking back at Prachuap Khiri Khan: Turquoise waters and limestone mountains in the distance are views typically only found in the Andaman Sea, but this little place south of Hua Hin offers all that and more. Wiggle your toes in the sand of local beaches, stuff yourself with seafood, and practice your Thai with the locals. See p. 181.

Thailand’s best Restaurants

Gaggan (Bangkok): All hail the four-time winner of Asia’s Best Restaurant by the organization World’s 50 Best (Gaggan was ranked number 5 in the world in 2018). It’s a quirky place to dine: the menu is presented as a series of emojis with each course representing the emotions of the symbol. It’s also VERY hard to get in: Chef Gaggan Anand has announced he’ll pack up and explore culinary ventures in Japan in 2020, so winning a reservation is like winning the lottery. See p. 91.

Jay Fai (Bangkok): Hunched over a rudimentary wok in Old Town, Bangkok, the petite Jay Fai is still cooking her famous crab omelets and crab curry dishes well into her 7th decade. Known for wearing bug-eyed goggles, Jay Fai was a legend even before becoming the only street food vendor to earn a Michelin star in the inaugural 2018 guide. To the surprise of many, her prices haven’t risen since. See p. 95.

Khao Soi Lam Duan Fah Ham (Chiang Mai): Khao soi, a spicy, yellow Burmese-style curry with both fried and boiled noodles, is a beloved regional dish in the north of Thailand. One of the best local spots for this cheap and authentic dish is Khao Soi Lam Duan Fah Ham. In business for more than seven decades, it’s been said they make more than 50 pounds of noodles a day. See p. 342.

Acqua (Phuket): Under the watchful eye of Sardinia-born Alessandro Frau, Acqua brings to life a creative menu of seafood-based Italian dishes with European precision and cooking techniques. The wine list is the best outside of Bangkok, and top international suppliers bring in freshwater fish, smoked burrata, and perfectly ripe tomatoes. See p. 254.

Street food vendors: Without open-air stalls, pushcarts, and roaming barbecue grills, Thailand wouldn’t be what it is today. Dishes created in the open air are imbued with history and culture—and they’ll likely be the best food you’ll ever have while traveling. Someone once told me that to eat like a local is to be accepted like a local, and that, in its purest form, is my favorite thing about living in Thailand. See p. 94.

Thailand’s best Hotels

Mandarin Oriental (Bangkok): This momentous property opened on the banks of the Chao Phraya in 1876 and has been a landmark ever since. The hotel’s old-world glamour and Thai charm have attracted a host of dignitaries and celebrities over the years, including Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward, Princess Diana, Elizabeth Taylor, and David Beckham. See p. 68.

Dhara Dhevi (Chiang Mai): Built to resemble an ancient Lanna-era kingdom, this 60-acre property comes complete with moats, walls, and gorgeous rooms outfitted in Thai silks and hill-tribe prints. After a night or two here, you’ll feel like royalty. See p. 328.

Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle (Chiang Rai): Trumpeting elephants call out from the jungle while the sun sets over neighboring Burma. This all-inclusive resort in the hills of northern Thailand offers spa treatments in a lush outdoor jungle setting, gourmet meals, and ethical interactions with playful pachyderms. See p. 388.

Soneva Kiri (Koh Kood): Kick things off on the right (very luxurious) foot and take the 70-minute flight from Bangkok on the resort’s eight-seater Cessna plane to Ko Mai Si, the hotel’s private island. The pampering doesn’t stop until you leave these spacious suites and their palm-lined beaches. Eat plenty of fresh-caught fish. See p. 164.

Supanniga Home Boutique Hideaway (Khon Kaen): The hotel doubles as meditation retreat for local Thai monks, and that tranquil vibe extends to the villas, set on lush grounds and surrounded by mango trees. The on-property restaurant offers a menu of the owner’s grandmother’s recipes. Khon Kaen is the gateway to Isan, a province in the northeast part of Thailand. See p. 395.

The Nai Harn (Phuket): The Nai Harn overlooks a near-perfect slice of sand with turquoise waters rolling in and yachts in the bay. The service is fantastic, the food is excellent, and there’s a great spa and wine menu. Besides ownership of one of the yachts, what more could you want? See p. 239.

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Suggested Itineraries in Thailand

Thailand is often the first Asian country Western tourists visit. It’s not hard to see why. This vast and treasure-filled nation is supremely affordable, with astonishingly delicious food on quite literally every street and people who are the most welcoming on the planet. In this laid-back country, though, it isn’t always necessary to plan full days of museum-hopping, touring, and shopping, like one would in Paris or Rome. I urge even the most Type A of travelers to leave some room for spontaneity (Bangkok’s infamous traffic will likely delay a few plans).

Most trips begin and end in Bangkok—the country’s capital and commercial center—and travelers’ itineraries often include some beach time mixed in with a bit of history and adventure. With well-timed, short domestic flights, the highlights can be seen in 10 to 14 days, but linger a bit and you’ll better experience the country’s rich history and a profound spirituality. The itineraries listed here should serve as inspiration for ways to spend your days, but they’re also ripe for mixing and matching.

The Regions in Brief

The Thais compare their land to the shape of an elephant’s head, seen in profile, facing the West, with the southern peninsula representing the dangling trunk. Thailand is roughly equidistant from China and India, and centuries of migration from southern China and trade with India brought influences from each of these Asian nations. Thailand borders Myanmar to the northwest, Laos to the northeast, Cambodia to the east, and Malaysia to the south. Its southwestern coast stretches along the Andaman Sea, its southern and southeastern coastlines perimeter the Gulf of Thailand, and every coast boasts a myriad of islands. Thailand covers roughly 514,000 sq. km (198,450 sq. miles)—about the size of France or California—and spans over 1,600km (over 1,000 miles) from north to south. It is divided into six geographic zones, within which there are 76 provinces.

Thailand

Bangkok   Located on the banks of the Chao Phraya River—Thailand’s principal waterway—Bangkok is more or less in the geographical heart of the country on both a north–south and east–west axis. It is home to more than 10% of the Thai population, as well as plenty of expats who bustle along with the commuter crowd, glad to be based in this crazy metropolis. Its congested streets and infamous gridlock can be frustrating, though its glittering temples, colorful markets, and carefree inhabitants can be endearing in equal measure.

The Eastern Seaboard   The coastline east of Bangkok—often referred to as the Eastern Gulf—is home to Pattaya, Rayong, and Trat. These are popular weekend destinations for Thai families and expats alike. For the best beaches, however, you’ll need to hop on a boat to Ko Samet, Ko Chang, or Ko Kood, all of which offer resorts and spots to scuba.

The Southern Peninsula   A long, narrow peninsula protrudes south to the Malaysian border with the Andaman Sea on the west and the Gulf of Thailand to the east. Due to the high number of popular destinations in the south, this guide divides the region into two chapters—one focusing on the east coast and another focusing on the west coast.

Off the Gulf coast, Ko Samui has gone from sleepy hideaway to a heaving tourist magnet, while Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao are following in its wake. Farther south, the three southernmost provinces of Yala, Narathiwat, and Pattani are home to a considerable Muslim population. Take extreme care in this region: Regular, violent attacks by insurgents target public markets as well as transport and Buddhist centers. Off the Andaman coast, the islands of Phuket, Ko Phi Phi, and Ko Lanta, as well as the peninsula of Krabi, boast the some of the country’s loveliest beaches and pose no safety risks.

The Central Plains   Thailand’s central plains are an extremely fertile region: Its abundant jasmine rice crops are exported worldwide. The main attractions of the area, however, are the atmospheric ruins at the historic cities of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya, both former capitals of the Kingdom of Siam. To the west of the central plains, Kanchanaburi, on the River Kwai, is the site of the infamous World War II Death Railway, where an estimated 16,000 Allied prisoners of war and around 100,000 Asians died during its construction for the Japanese. Other significant towns in this region are Lopburi, a favorite haunt of former kings of Siam; Phitsanulok, a major crossroads in the northern plains; and Mae Sot, a remote outpost near the Myanmar border and jumping-off point for a trip to Ti Lor Su Waterfall, in the Umphang Wildlife Reserve.

Northern Thailand   The north is a mountainous region and coolest from November to February when conditions are ideal for trekking to visit the region’s brightly dressed hill-tribes. This is also elephant country, but now that logging is banned, many pachyderms are sources of entertainment for tourists at elephant camps. (More on that on p. 325.) The cool hills in the north are well suited for farming, particularly for strawberries, asparagus, peaches, and litchis. Today, agricultural programs and charities, such as the Mae Fah Luang Foundation, are retraining hill-tribe villagers whose main crop used to be opium poppies. Settlements around Doi Tung have implemented crop replacement schemes, propagating coffee and macadamia nuts.

The major towns in the north are Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Lampang, and Mae Hong Son. The best way to enjoy the region’s scenic beauty is by taking a motorbike or car around the Mae Hong Son Loop; or, for those with less time, a quick trip to Thailand’s highest point in Doi Inthanon National Park, or to the infamous Golden Triangle, where the borders of Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar meet.

Isan   The broad and relatively infertile northeast plateau that is Isan is the least developed region in Thailand. Bordered by the Mekong River, it separates the country from neighboring Laos, though the people of Isan share linguistic and cultural similarities with their neighbors. The region’s attractions include the remains of a Bronze Age village at Ban Chiang, as well as significant Khmer ruins at Pimai and Phnom Rung, near Nakhorn Ratchasima, also known as Khorat. The greatest asset of the region for tourists is the easy-going lifestyle of the region and it’s a perfect place to unwind along the banks of the mighty Mekong River.

Thailand’s Greatest Hits: A Country Tour in 10 Days

While more time is always better, in 10 days, you’ll have enough time to hit the beach, buzz around Bangkok, and make it to the north for trekking. The tour outlined below is for travelers who want to take in the country’s highlights. The flexibility of another 2 to 4 days will allow for a few more sights, like a day trip from Bangkok to Ayutthaya or island hopping down south. I’ve outlined a top-level plan here but keep reading for a more zoomed in guides to the different regions.

Days 1 and 2: Bangkok

Since jetlag likely has you up at odd hours, the bustling 24-hour flower market, known as Pak Klong Talad (p. 126), is where to head first (whenever first may be). The blooms are used to make ornate arrangements for weddings, funerals, temple offerings, and many hotels come here to outfit the lobby and guestrooms with fragrant flowers. Keep any eye out for women folding lotus blossoms and stringing jasmine to make temple offerings. If you have another day of waking up before dawn, use the early time to make merit and offer alms to the local monks for good fortune on your journey. With bare feet and saffron colored robes, the Thai monks walk the streets of the city in the early morning to collect food and donations. You’ll likely be able to find them near your hotel around 6am, but check with the front desk about where to find fruit to donate.

After these early morning adventures, follow our Bangkok Day 1 and Day 2 itineraries as laid out on p. 14 and p. 15, for the daylight hours. Spend 1 night on a foodie deep-dive getting acquainted with the country’s incredible street food. Chinatown is the best spot to try a host of dishes, and you can do this on your own or with a guide (see p. 89 for recommended tours). The other night could be more upmarket, dining at one of the city’s foodie hotspots, like 80/20’s (p. 90)—80% of the designed-to-share menu comes from a nearby market.

Days 3 to 5: The Beach

Catch an early morning flight from Bangkok to Krabi (p. 266), a stunning beach destination. Like tropical neighbors Phuket and Ko Samui, the Krabi airport offers direct flights to Chiang Mai, which is your next destination in Thailand. Spend the days flitting between boat rides, donning a snorkel mask to see if you can find a sea turtle, eating your weight in seafood, and enjoying pampering massage treatments. Spa retreats, over-the-top villas with private pools, and low-key beach bungalows are available to suit every budget and travel style.

Days 6 to 9: Chiang Mai

A 90-minute flight will take you from Krabi to the Rose of the North, and you’ll notice a palpable difference the moment you step off the airplane. Money-saving tip: Budget travelers should look to make a connection in Bangkok, which isn’t as taxing as it sounds and which will lower the price significantly. You can easily make it to Chiang Mai in time for a late lunch with the connection. Just be mindful of booking tickets to and from the same airport in Bangkok.

When you land, check in to your hotel, grab a bowl of khao soi at Khao Soi Lam Duan Fah Ham (p. 342), stroll around the Old City (p. 313), browse the stalls at the famous night market (p. 345), and end the night listening to local music at a hot spot like the North Gate Jazz Co-Op (p. 349).

Fill the next day with a morning trip to the dazzling hillside temple of Doi Suthep (p. 320), where you ring the bells for good luck, and head out for an afternoon cooking class (p. 323 has my top picks) that will include a trip to a local market. If your cooking class is in the morning, head to Doi Suthep in the afternoon. It’s beautiful all day long.

For Day 8, arrange an early pick-up at your hotel by the Elephant Nature Park (p. 46) for a full morning and afternoon of playtime with rescued elephants in a beautiful mountain setting. You’ll feed them treats, learn about the herds, and observe them bathing. It’s a beautiful day interacting with these majestic animals. Return and shower up at the hotel (elephants can be smelly!), then head to an open-air eating and shopping center called One Nimman (p. 341) for dinner and a drink.

On your last full day in Chiang Mai, it is time to do some serious retail therapy. Not only is the shopping in Chiang Mai is excellent, visiting the stores here affords a fascinating look into Thai culture, and the current state of its arts-and-crafts scene. Best place to go is Charoenrat Road where you’ll find more than a dozen boutiques, including Sop Moei Arts (p. 343) for high-end hill-tribe handicrafts, Vila Cini (p. 347) for silk, and the Elephant Parade House (p. 344) for colorful elephant figurines. Grab lunch at Ginger & Kafe (p. 339) and browse their small boutique before leaving. If you still have time before your flight, you could continue shopping in town at HQ Paper (p. 344) and Chiang Mai Cotton (p. 346), or enjoy one last massage before the long flight home. With a few locations in town, you’re likely close to a Let’s Relax (p. 327).

Day 10: Bangkok

While there are a growing number of international flights departing from Chiang Mai, you’ll likely catch a flight home from Bangkok. Spend your day lounging in Lumpini Park or doing some last-minute shopping. If you didn’t make it to the weekends-only Chatuchak Market, plan to do that before flying out.

Bangkok Itineraries

The Thai capital has a lot to offer but can be somewhat daunting, what with its chaotic traffic and hectic pace. The following itineraries should help cut down on time getting from one place to the next, as they explore one, or two, areas at a time. Tack these one-day itineraries onto the beginning—or the end—of any trip to Thailand, since you’ll likely fly in and out of the capital city. If you’re going to split it up: Spend time touring the city sites at the start of the journey and then use a day at the end to fill your suitcase with beautiful handicrafts, silk fashions, or souvenirs that you won’t want to haul around the country.

Day 1: Bangkok’s Riverside Sites

Start your tour of Bangkok at Central Pier (p. 61), next to Saphan Taksin BTS, where you can hop on a fast river taxi or the more comfortable wide-berth Chao Phraya Tourist Boat.

Heading north along the S-curve of the river, you can hop off to visit many of the city’s historical sites. The first stop should be an early morning arrival at the famed Wat Phra Kaew (p. 104), the temple of the celebrated Emerald Buddha, and the Grand Palace Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 106). From there, it’s a short walk to Wat Po Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 114) and the Giant Reclining Buddha.

Take a lunch break to rest your legs and eyes, or even get a massage at the on-site massage school at Wat Pho. Then carry on upstream to visit the National Museum Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 110), where you can easily spend a couple of hours delving into this proud nation’s past. If you’ve still got it in you, after visiting the museum, for a different type of sightseeing, wander north to Banglampoo and nose around Khao San Road (p. 132), the vibrant backpacker strip.

This is a lot to see in a day—but it does cover the city’s unmissable sights and avoids traffic delays by using river transport. If you enjoy traveling on the river, you may want to end the day by taking a dinner cruise (see p. 69 for options), on which you can see the city by night.

Day 2: History, Shopping and Thai Massage

Start your second day in Bangkok at the Jim Thompson House Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 109), the beautiful wooden home on stilts of the American who rejuvenated the Thai silk industry. It’s in the heart of the city near the National Stadium BTS and offers a fascinating lens through which to look at the country’s not-so-distant past.

The shimmering silks on display in the shop at Jim Thompson’s should put you in the mood for a full-frontal attack on the city’s shops: About a 10-minute walk from the Jim Thompson is MBK Center (p. 124), a multi-floor home to everything from funky fashion to phone accessories. Adjacent to the Siam BTS is Siam Paragon (p. 94), a center filled with super-luxury boutiques and a huge choice of restaurants. If you still haven’t found that special something, continue to the funky, trendy stores found in the maze of lanes in Siam Square (p. 58).

Have lunch a mall food court either at Siam Paragon or MBK. Dining at MBK is the more affordable, local experience of the two. Thais love food courts, and the experience is much nicer than a food court in the West. Next, drop off your shopping bags at the hotel and head off to enjoy Thailand’s famous massage. Thais believe regular massage is an essential part of a holistic well-being and foreign visitors are often shocked at how inexpensive treatments are (expect to pay $15 to $30 an hour). During Thai massage, a professional massage therapist will bend and stretch you, an experience many have compared to lazy man’s yoga. Health Land (see p. 118) or Asia Herb (p. 118) are both major chains with top rate services.

You should be feeling as light as a feather after this, but you’ll feel even lighter when you ride up to the 61st floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel, on Sathorn Road, to knock back a sundowner at Moon Bar (p. 131) while drinking in the city views in every direction. For dinner, if you want a sense of occasion, head around the corner to Nahm Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 88)

Day 3: Chatuchak & Chinatown

If it is Friday or Saturday, take the BTS to Mo Chit for a morning of treasure hunting at the Chatuchak Weekend Market (p. 127). Plan to arrive before 10am to beat most of the crowds. You’ll want to grab a coffee before arriving since the options at the market aren’t great. But while the java is so-so, the snacking possibilities are endless, so come hungry. You’ll need that fuel to power through the thousands of shops. When you’ve had enough of the stalls, heat or crowds, head back to the hotel for a cooling dip in the pool. If it isn’t Saturday or Sunday, the market will be closed, so consider a morning stroll in leafy Lumpini Park (p. 120) where you can paddleboat and look for monitor lizards. Soi Polo (p. 95) is a short walk from Lumpini Park, and it’s home to the best fried chicken in Bangkok. Head there for lunch.

Next on the itinerary for the day is Chinatown. Wat Tramit (p. 116) is home to a golden Buddha with a very high net worth, and you’ll want to catch the sunset from the Golden Mount aka Wat Saket (p. 115). From there, it is time to eat. You won’t have time to wait in the 4-hour line to get the famous crab omelet at Jay Fai (p. 95), and that’s okay because Krua Apsorn (p. 96), right around the corner, makes a killer version that’s just as good. Next, head to Yaowarat Road (p. 57) for more street eats and a great atmosphere. When you’ve had your fill, join the fray on Soi Nana (p. 131) where old is cool again, and 100-year-old shophouses (a tall, narrow home) are now great cocktail bars, like Teens of Thailand (p. 131) and Tep Bar (p. 132). There is enough here to keep you happy, and drinking, until the end of the night.

Day 4: Day Trip from Bangkok

The best option is to head for the ancient Thai capital of Ayutthaya Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 283) where 13th-century temples and ruins are on display, including a famous stone Buddha face ensnarled in a tree. It is a 90-minute drive from Bangkok and it’s a lot of fun to rent bikes from a local vendor and tour the archeological site. If your trip to Southeast Asia includes a stop to see Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia, the temples at Ayutthaya might feel redundant. If so, a trip to Khao Yai National Park Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 137), offers welcome greenery, local wineries, and a chance to see elephants in the wild. The journey to Khao Yai takes 1 hour and 50 minutes.

Ancient Capitals Tour in 1 Week

This 1-week itinerary, heading north from Bangkok, traces the nation’s legacy back to its ancient seats of power. First, you’ll head north to Ayutthaya—the capital of Siam until the late 18th century—and then you’ll carry on via Phitsanulok to Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai, the birthplace of the Kingdom of Siam (it was here that Thai language, art, and architecture as we know it today began). Final stop is the ancient Lanna capital of Chiang Mai, which became a part of Siam/Thailand only in the early 20th century. The journey can be made by a combination of bus and train, though I’d recommend hiring a driver (see p. 408), which offers more comfort and flexibility.

Ancient Capitals Tours in 1 Week

Day 1: Bangkok to Ayutthaya

You can make the short trip north from Bangkok to Ayutthaya (see Side Trips from Bangkok, in chapter 6) in about an hour and a half, leaving most of the day for sightseeing. The best way to see the sights and appreciate the expansiveness of the temples is to rent a bike, though driving is possible. Start pedaling for Wat Phra Mahathat Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 289), in the city center, which is the most striking of the Ayutthaya ruins, and Wat Phra Si Sanphet Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 289), with its three slender stupas. If you have time, take a late-afternoon tour by longtail boat around the city island to see the more far-flung ruins. In the evening, dine at a floating restaurant on the riverside (p. 298). The ruins are illuminated in the evening, so a night tour (p. 287) is another option. Return to your Ayutthaya hotel.

Day 2: Bang Pa-In, Lopburi & Ayutthaya

Today, drive (or be driven) to two interesting destinations near Ayutthaya, allowing half a day for each site. Bang Pa-In (p. 292) was not an ancient Siamese capital, but was a royal retreat that was particularly popular in the reign of King Chulalongkorn (r. 1868–1910); the curious mix of Thai and Western colonial architecture makes a striking contrast Ayutthaya’s ruins.

Grab a bowl of rice or noodles for a roadside lunch as you head north to Lopburi (p. 292), another favorite royal retreat in the era of King Narai. Visit King Narai’s Palace (p. 293) and the museum on the grounds. Take a look at Ban Vichayen (p. 293), once home of King Narai’s Western advisor, Constantine Phaulkon; and visit the town’s mischievous macaques at Phra Prang Sam Yot (p. 293) before heading back to Ayutthaya.

Return to Ayutthaya for the night, grab a cold beer and take a stroll along Naresuan Road Soi 2, where you’ll find street snacks, Western food, and live music.

Day 3: Phitsanulok

Check out early and drive to Phitsanulok (p. 294). Most of the day will be spent looking out over endless rice paddies during the 300-km (186-mile) journey. Check in at your hotel (p. 297), and then cross the river and stroll upstream to Wat Yai Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 290), the town’s only must-see attraction. In the evening, take a stroll back downstream beside the Nan River to the Night Market (p. 291); order some flying vegetables (a type of water spinach popular in Thai cooking) and have your camera ready to catch them being thrown some distance by the chef onto plates.

Day 4: Sukhothai

Drive to Sukhothai, check into your hotel and spend the rest of the day exploring Sukhothai Historical Park Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 299). As in Ayutthaya, it’s fun to see the central area by rented bicycle, though for the furthest temples you’ll need car or taxi. Start at the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum (p. 301) to get clued up on this remarkable site, and then head for the most important ruins at Wat Phra Mahathat Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg , Wat Traphang Tong, and Wat Si Chum (p. 289, 302, and 301).

Ask at your lodging if there is a light and sound show presentation at the historical park in the evening. If there is, it’s a sight to remember; if not, it’s on to dinner and drinks at the eccentric Dream Café Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 304).

Day 5: Si Satchanalai & Chiang Mai

Most of this day is spent wending your way north from the central plains into the northern hills, with a welcome break at the ruined temples of Si Satchanalai Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 297). The main temples to see here are Wat Chang Lom and Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 305). On leaving the site, look out for another roadside lunch stop, and then sit back and watch the landscape become more dramatic as you make your way through the hills to Chiang Mai Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 311), capital of the north. This ancient but hip city has a great range of places to stay, so check out the listings (p. 327) to find somewhere that suits your budget.

You’ll want to stretch your legs after a day in the car, so make for the Night Bazaar Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 345), and be prepared for furious bargaining as you shop for souvenirs. If hunger pangs overtake you while shopping, pop into Anusarn Market and follow your nose to the most appealing aroma. If you can wait, cross the river to David’s Kitchen Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 336), where you can enjoy their new wine bar, Piccolo (p. 349), after dinner for live music.

Day 6: Chiang Mai

For the last full day of this trip, you get to make a choice. If you’d like to get a sense of the city’s long history, take a walk from the northeast corner to the southwest corner of Chiang Mai’s Old City, winding through the back streets and taking in the principal temples: Wat Chiang Man Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg , Wat Chedi Luang Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg , and Wat Phra Singh Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 317 and 318). Stop off for lunch at either Ruen Tamarind Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 339) or Huen Phen Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 340) along the way, and sit for a while in Buak Had Park at the end.

If, on the other hand, you’ve had enough history for one trip, you might like to spend the day learning how to prepare some tasty Thai dishes at the Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 323). Other options include boat trips on the river, a visit to an elephant camp (p. 325) or a drive up Doi Suthep to visit the north’s most famous temple—Wat Phra That Doi Suthep Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 320).

In the evening, wander around the Night Bazaar, engage in more drinking and dancing at the riverside bars, or pack your bags and take an early night.

Day 7: Chiang Mai to Bangkok

If you have time before your flight leaves, try to do some last-minute shopping in Chiang Mai or book one last massage. If there’s no time, then bon voyage.

Island-Hopping Tour in 1 Week

This itinerary offers a glimpse at three of Thailand’s most lauded beach destinations—Phuket, Ko Phi Phi, and Ko Samui. If you like what you see, you may be tempted to stay longer than suggested here—but don’t overstay your visa!

Day 1: Bangkok to Phuket

A short flight and transfer from Bangkok will bring you to Phuket Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 225), which has a range of accommodation from luxurious resorts to simple guesthouses. Make dinner reservations at Suay Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 259) for a delicious taste of what southern Thailand has to offer. Enjoy a lazy meal and while plotting a week’s island hopping.

Day 2: Phuket

Time for some serious rest and relaxation. Give yourself a day on the beach of your choice or by the pool, snacking from the pool bar or passing vendors on the beach.

In the evening, check out the street snack, raunchy bars, and discos along Bangla Road in the heart of Patong. The people-watching is phenomenal. Dinner at Acqua Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 254) is a much more highbrow way to spend the night, and the restaurant has the best wine list on the island.

Day 3: More of Phuket

Today you’ll explore the island by car (and driver if necessary) and hit up the island’s top beaches (p. 228), like Karon and Kamala. Stop off somewhere with scenic views, such as On the Rock Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg on Karon Beach (p. 229), for a lazy lunch. From here head to the island’s northeast to visit the Phuket Elephant Sanctuary (p. 237), the only reputable elephant sanctuary down south, where you can bathe and feed them.

As dusk falls, park up in Phuket Town and take a stroll around the colonnaded streets of Sino-Portuguese houses before dining at Ka Jok See Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 257). If you’re not ready for bed yet, head for Dibuk House (p. 261) for creative cocktails or Catch Beach Club (p. 261) for DJs and dancing on the sand.

Day 4: Day Trip to Ko Phi Phi

Just about every tour operator on Phuket runs day trips to Ko Phi Phi Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg , so check the schedule of a few and sign up for one that appeals (there’s not much difference one to the next).

During a boat ride of a couple of hours you'll see plenty of karst outcrops of the kind that typifies Phang Nga Bay. If it is open (parts have been closed for a few months each year to help with environmental protection), you’ll probably be taken to Phi Phi Leh first (p. 274; it’s the smaller, uninhabited island), where you’ll have the chance to snorkel and explore Maya Bay, made famous by the movie The Beach (p. 274).

From here you’ll go to Phi Phi Don (p. 274), which, depending on the season, might be heaving with vacationers. Lunch is usually included in these day trips, and a clamber up to the viewpoint over the back-to-back horseshoe bays brings a sight to treasure. Once back on Phuket, treat yourself to a meal to remember at Acqua Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg , on Kalim Beach (p. 254).

Day 5: Phuket to Ko Samui

Hop a flight from Phuket to Ko Samui Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 186), and you’ll be able to compare the sand and sea color at Thailand’s two most popular beach destinations. The fun begins at Samui airport, where you’ll feel like you’ve landed in Disneyland in an open-air airport with perfectly manicured gardens.

If it’s peace and quiet you’re after, book into the Six Senses Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 265), in the northeast corner of the island, where you can be sure nobody will disturb you except your personal butler. If you’re more into partying, go for something in the heart of the action on Chaweng Beach.

Spend the rest of the day relaxing and settling into your resort, which will have plenty of activities on offer. Dine at your chosen resort as well, and get a sound night’s sleep before the last full day of this tour.

Day 6: Ko Samui

There are two attractive options for today, from which you’ll have to choose just one. The first is to hire a car (with driver if necessary) to explore the island’s ring road. Along the way, you can take in such sights as phallic rocks, mummified monks, and waterfalls. The second alternative is to sign up for a tour of the Ang Thong National Marine Park Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 208), a cluster of rugged islands where you get to paddle a kayak through turquoise waters and scramble to the top of a hill for a breathtaking view.

However you spend the day, treat yourself to a celebratory meal in the evening at Dining on the Rocks Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 202). If you still have energy, check out Chaweng’s coolest bar, CoCo Tam’s (p. 207), which is home to strong rum cocktails and the island’s best fire show.

Day 7: Ko Samui to Bangkok

Put on your best white shirt to show off your suntan, take a cab to the airport, and zip back to Bangkok.

Northern Adventure Tour in 1 Week

With a distinct (and delicious) regional cuisine, fantastic temples, ethical elephant camps, and cooler temperatures, Northern Thailand is one of the most appealing parts of the country. Here’s a good way to get to see a huge tract of the northern hills, as well as the ancient temples of Chiang Mai. You’ll follow the Mae Hong Son Loop out to the northwest border with Myanmar. On the return leg, the route detours from the Loop to the highest point in Thailand, where you might even need a jacket.

Day 1: Bangkok to Chiang Mai

After a flight or an overnight train journey from Bangkok, arrive in Chiang Mai. Follow any of the Chiang Mai suggested in Thailand’s Greatest Hits.

Day 2: Chiang Mai to Pai

Book a car and driver or strike out on your own for 5 days, during which you will explore the north. Route 107 branches left at Mae Malai onto Route 1095. The road follows 762 switchbacks over an attractive range of hills before arriving at Pai Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 360). Once a hippie hangout, Pai still has an easy-going vibe with opportunities to explore the leafy countryside. Check into the gorgeous Belle Villa Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 365) outside of town. If you need some exercise, walk up to Wat Phra That Mae Yen (p. 363), on a small hill to the east of town. In the evening, enjoy a tasty Thai meal (p. 365), and then check out the live music in the surrounding area.

Day 3: Pai to Mae Hong Son

It takes about half a day to negotiate the steep, narrow road through the mountains to Mae Hong Son Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 359), and the journey is a full day after you make a recommended stop off to explore Spirit Cave Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 367), located near Soppong.

In Mae Hong Son, check into the Imperial Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg or Fern Resort Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 371), and then take a stroll around Jong Kham Lake and grab a few pictures of the Burmese-style temples of Wat Jong Kham and Wat Jong Klang (p. 370). Dine at Fern Restaurant Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 372) and get an early night, as tomorrow is a long day’s drive.

Day 4: Mae Hong Son to Doi Inthanon

Today’s journey starts out on the southern (and longest) part of the Mae Hong Son Loop, passing through Khun Yuam and Mae Sariang before branching off to Thailand’s highest peak—Doi Inthanon. The long journey doesn’t leave much time for sightseeing, but it’s a good idea to take frequent, short breaks to stretch your legs. One such stop could be at the World War II Museum, in Khun Yuam (p. 373), while the Riverhouse Resort, in Mae Sariang (p. 374), is a good choice for lunch. About 80km (50 miles) east of Mae Sariang, turn left onto Route 1088, and then at the small town of Mae Chaem, turn right and climb to the peak of Doi Inthanon Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 351). Stay in the log cabins at the national park headquarters, and eat at the neighboring cafe.

Day 5: Doi Inthanon to Chiang Mai

It takes only a couple of hours to drive from the summit of Doi Inthanon to Chiang Mai, so you can spend the morning exploring the upper reaches of the mountain, where it’s much cooler than down in the valley. Walk the Ang Khang Nature Trail (p. 352), near the park headquarters, and notice the wealth of plant and bird life. On the way down, stop at the Wachirathan and Sirithan Falls for some photos, and at the Mae Klang Falls for a grilled chicken and sticky rice lunch on the fly.

Once back in Chiang Mai, unwind with a spa session, either at your hotel or at Oasis Spa Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 326), in the town center.

For dinner, track down the stylish David’s Kitchen Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg (p. 336) or eat your way through the food sections at the night market.

Day 6: Around Chiang Mai

Head straight up the city’s guardian mountain to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 320), where you can listen to bells tinkling in the breeze and look down on the city sitting in the valley below. The classic image at this temple is of the gleaming stupa that stands in a marble courtyard at the heart of the complex.

At the base of the mountain, turn left onto the Superhighway, which sweeps around the north of the city, and look out for the turn to Sankampaeng (p. 347) along Route 1006. After breaking for lunch at Fujian Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg (p. 338), keep driving east, stopping at any showroom or workshop that catches your eye. These present good opportunities not only for interesting photographs but souvenir shopping too.

You can complete your shopping in the evening at the Night Bazaar Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg (p. 345), where you’ll find everything from a 50¢ hill-tribe doll to a $5,000 antique.

Day 7: Chiang Mai to Bangkok

If you find that all your shopping won’t fit into your bags, hurry to the post office and mail a box of goods back home. After that, head for the airport and wave goodbye to the friendly folks of northern Thailand.

3

Thailand in Context

Sanuk mai? (Is it fun?) is a question frequently asked in Thailand, and the choice of question says a lot about the priorities of this fun-loving place. For Thais, anything that is not sanuk (fun) is not worth doing, so a positive response to the query (" Sanuk, krup for men or Sanuk, ka " for women) is bound to be met with a beaming smile, showing pleasure that outsiders are able to enjoy the Thai lifestyle.

The idea of fun permeates the culture, from slurping roadside noodles to finding creative and hair-raising ways to beat the traffic, or messaging friends animated emojis. So, while Thailand is no longer as undiscovered or as cheap as it was a decade ago, the magnetic attraction of its sparkling temples, idyllic beaches, mountain trails, fiery cuisine, and market culture is as strong as ever. Welcome to Thailand. Ready to have some fun?

Thailand Today

Most of Thailand’s 68 million people live in the countryside or in rural villages, where they earn a living in agriculture, predominantly by rice farming. However, as in many developing nations, there is a constant drift of people from the country to the city, and Bangkok, the nation’s capital, is now home to over 8 million. The city’s inhabitants are divided between wealthy Thais, often of Chinese ancestry, who are educated and hold formidable positions, and mostly low-income earners who came from the rural hinterland (termed upcountry by Thais). Hierarchy, or class, is an important distinction to Thais, who, like many of the region’s nations, follow a loose version of India’s caste system. Interestingly, as a foreigner, you are generally awarded a position of stature, regardless of your social standing back home, just as long you don’t flout Thai etiquette (see Thai Etiquette, p. 410).

So, who exactly are the Thai people? It’s hard to say. There really are no historically ethnic Thais, but understanding some of Thailand’s history helps to understand how it operates in the present day. Today’s Thais emerged from waves of various immigrants going back around ten centuries. Central Thailand is a true mix of people; however, southern Thais have a closer ancestral affinity with Malays, while Thais in the north are more closely related to the Chinese, Laotians, and Burmese. The north is also home to small groups of Akha, Lisu, Lahu, Hmong, and Yao (p. 356)—brightly dressed hill-tribes who migrated south from China and Tibet during the past century. In the northeast province of Isan, Laotian influence prevails. The remaining population is divided between Chinese and Indians, Malays, Karens, Khmer, and Mons.

Despite this ethnic diversity, when it comes to religion, over 95% of Thailand’s inhabitants are Buddhist, and there are over 40,000 temples scattered around the country—which might explain why many visitors feel some sort of temple fatigue. There are small pockets of Christians, particularly in the north, where missionaries