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    Tuning to Win
    Tuning to Win
    Tuning to Win
    Ebook269 pages1 hour

    Tuning to Win

    By Ian Pinnell and Tim Davison

    ()

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    About this ebook

    For most sailors, boat tuning may seem a mystery understood only by sailmakers and the like. In this book, sailor, chandler and championship winner, Ian Pinnell, unravels this daunting subject and will help improve your boatspeed as a result. Since most races are won or lost by a difference of less than 2% of racing time, you will soon be moving up the fleet. With hundreds of photos and diagrams to illustrate every point, the book clearly explains what each control does and how to set it up optimally for different conditions. Additional troubleshooting and skills sections take things even further, making this the bible of dinghy tuning.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherFernhurst Books Limited
    Release dateSep 13, 2016
    ISBN9781909911819
    Tuning to Win
    Author

    Ian Pinnell

    Ian Pinnell has been winning sailing championships since the early 1980s and is continuing to do so over 30 years later. He has over 40 World, European and National Championship titles to his name in classes as diverse as the Enterprise, 505 and Mumm 30. He is Managing Director of Pinnell & Bax, one of the UK’s leading sailmakers and chandlers.

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      Book preview

      Tuning to Win - Ian Pinnell

      .

      INTRODUCTION

      Boatspeed is a vital ingredient in winning, but many races are won by only a few boat lengths or seconds. Given that most dinghy races last somewhere between 30 minutes and an hour, you are talking about tiny difference in boatspeed. A 30-second lead in a 30-minute race only equates to the winner going less than 2% faster than the other boat!

      We are talking about fine margins here and small changes to your boat’s tuning can easily make that sort of difference to your boatspeed.

      This book will help you understand how the rig and foils generate boatspeed. It will show you how to alter the controls to power up or down, depending on wind strength, and how to alter the rig for upwind and downwind sailing. In short, it aims to give you blinding speed and get you pointing so high that you never need to sail on port tack!

      The book is organised into three parts:

      Part 1: Getting Ready

      Focussing on what needs to be done or known before you start tuning, this section begins with how to assemble a hull, foils and gear so that you have compatible kit to tune. Every bit of standard rigging (the things you set up ashore) is then explained, moving onto the effects of the control lines (the ropes you tweak as you sail round the course).

      Not every type of boat will have all the equipment and controls described here, but that doesn’t matter, you can just learn how to use the ones that you do have!

      Part 2: Tuning

      The second part of the book covers boat tuning itself, beginning with the initial set up (which is always for light wind beating), and going on to modifying this set up for beating in medium and strong winds, along with information on reaching and running.

      A section on two boat tuning details how you can refine your settings even further, and a dedicated troubleshooting section will help pull you back from the brink when it’s all gone horribly wrong.

      Part 3: Skills

      The last section of the book covers all the skills you need to make the boat work, be it splicing control lines, replacing a slot gasket or threading a new halyard through the mast.

      Armed with this knowledge you will have the confidence to get in the groove right from the start, be able to concentrate on all the other things that need your attention in a race, and work your way up the leaderboard!

      .

      PART 1

      GETTING READY

      .

      Assembling The Gear

      Your first decision is whether to buy new or second-hand. Provided you buy from an expert builder, a new boat should have systems that work, are calibrated and are less likely to fail. The sails are new and the boat should be fast right out of the box. If not, the builder will give you advice and support. Of course, this all comes at a cost – it is very time consuming to fit out a new boat. (For example, it takes our team at P&B 55 hours to set up a 505, and an amateur would probably take twice as long.)

      A second-hand boat will be cheaper, and may be fast if you buy a proven boat or can re-tune an unsuccessful one. If you aren’t in a hurry then a cheap boat will give you an introduction to the class and a better idea of what you want when you do move on to a new boat.

      Buying A New Boat

      Unless the manufacturer supplies a complete boat, you will need to buy the hull, foils, spars and sails.

      The Hull

      You must buy the hull from someone who is an expert in the class, particularly if you want them to fit it out. Look for:

      • Championship results

      • Build quality

      • Quality of finish

      • Under weight

      Foils

      The rudder wants to be as small as you can handle, to give less drag. It must be stiff.

      The centreboard should be stiff in light / medium winds but have enough flex to depower in a gust. How much it needs to flex depends on your crew weight – the lighter you are the more it should flex. Check this by clamping the board, hanging a 15 kg weight on the tip and comparing it with others (right). The spec of the laminate alters the board’s stiffness. If yours turns out to be the wrong stiffness for your weight, you may need a new board.

      Think long and hard about the slot gasket, which is vital for speed. It must be in good condition and tensioned properly (which also improves the seal around the board).

      Checking centreboard stiffness

      The slot gasket is vital for speed

      Aluminium (top) and carbon (bottom) cross sections

      Mast

      The first decision is carbon or aluminium. If the class rules allow, go for carbon every time. These masts have a smaller section, are lighter and recover from big loadings (e.g. hitting the bottom in a capsize) better than their metal counterparts.

      Unfortunately, carbon spars cost 2-3 times more and don’t like having holes drilled in them.

      Next choose your mast manufacturer, if necessary in conjunction with your sailmaker. There may be a number of sections to choose from: go for the one that best suits your crew weight by asking the mast supplier.

      The table illustrates various Solo masts available from Selden

      Sails

      Choose a sailmaker who has good results in your class, has good tuning data and offers a good service.

      He will cut the sail to fit your mast, crew weight and the expected conditions.

      Heavier cloth lasts longer but, of course, gives weight aloft. Lighter cloth gives more speed

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