Travel Guide New Zealand

NEW ZEALAND

Contents

Plan Your Trip

The Journey Begins Here

New Zealand Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared for New Zealand

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

The Guide

Auckland

City Centre & Harbourfront

Ponsonby & Grey Lynn

Karangahape Road

Parnell & Newmarket

Mt Eden & Kingsland

Devonport

Tāmaki Drive

West Auckland

Waiheke Island

Matakana & Around

Aotea/Great Barrier Island

South & East Auckland

Bay of Islands & Northland

Bay of Islands

Beyond Bay of Islands

Mangōnui

Beyond Mangōnui

Whangārei

Beyond Whangārei

Waikato & the Coromandel Peninsula

Thames

Beyond Thames

Whitianga

Beyond Whitianga

Hamilton

Beyond Hamilton

Raglan

Beyond Raglan

Waitomo Caves

Beyond Waitomo Caves

Taranaki & Whanganui

New Plymouth

Beyond New Plymouth

Whanganui

Beyond Whanganui

Taupō & the Ruapehu Region

Taupō

Beyond Taupō

Tongariro National Park

Beyond Tongariro National Park

Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty

Rotorua

Beyond Rotorua

Mount Maunganui

Beyond Mount Maunganui

The East Coast

Napier

Hastings

Havelock North

Beyond Havelock North

Gisborne

Beyond Gisborne

Pacific Coast Highway

Wellington

Central Wellington

Kelburn & Thorndon

Miramar

Newtown

Days Bay & Eastbourne

Kāpiti Coast

The Wairarapa

Christchurch & Canterbury

Christchurch

Beyond Christchurch

Kaikōura

Beyond Kaikōura

Hanmer Springs

Beyond Hanmer Springs

Aoraki/Mt Cook

Beyond Aoraki/Mt Cook

Dunedin & Otago

Dunedin

Beyond Dunedin

Ōamaru

Beyond Ōamaru

Cromwell & Lake Dunstan

Beyond Cromwell & Lake Dunstan

Fiordland & Southland

Te Anau

Beyond Te Anau

Invercargill

Beyond Invercargill

Rakiura/Stewart Island

Queenstown & Wānaka

Queenstown

Beyond Queenstown

Arrowtown

Beyond Arrowtown

Wānaka

Beyond Wānaka

The West Coast

Westport

Beyond Westport

Hokitika

Beyond Hokitika

Westland Tai Poutini National Park

Haast World Heritage Area

Nelson & Marlborough

Nelson

Beyond Nelson

Abel Tasman National Park

Golden Bay

Marlborough Sounds

Blenheim

Toolkit

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Great Walks of New Zealand

Nuts & Bolts

Storybook

A History of New Zealand in 15 Places

Meet the New Zealanders

Time for a 'Managed Retreat' ?

The Maori Renaissance

A Biking Boom

Exploring New Zealand Cinema

This Book

NEW ZEALAND

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

French Pass, Marlborough Sound | Stanislav Kachyna/Shutterstock ©

New Zealand has been my home for over 20 years. I’ve travelled throughout the country and can confirm that the scenery is astounding no matter where you are. Seeing the Sky Tower reflected in the harbour on a clear autumn day in Auckland; the shocking colours of glacial lakes, kauri trees reaching impossibly high above you; the grandeur of the Southern Alps – the landscapes here are mesmerising. The earth is an intrinsic part of the local culture and its stories, and the bond between Māori and the land is remarkable. It sometimes feels as though this rugged, volcanic place wears its scars visibly on its surface. Yet many places remain untouched. It’s still relatively easy to find somewhere quiet and uncrowded, where there’s a sense of untamed land and possibility – the East Cape, Hokianga and Southland come to mind first, still isolated, peaceful and wild.

Roxanne de Bruyn

@farawayworlds.com

My favourite experience is driving along the road to French Pass in the Marlborough Sounds. The views are incredible, and it feels as though you’re on the edge of the world.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places that, for them, define New Zealand.

PHOTOS BRIANSCANTLEBURY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Just 30 minutes by plane from Auckland, Aotea/Great Barrier Island presents a very different side of New Zealand’s biggest city. There are brilliant beaches and forested walking trails, and Aotea’s traditional off-the-grid independence is now being complemented by a newer breed of island distractions, including craft beer, artisan gin and a focus on observing spectacular southern-hemisphere night skies.

Brett Atkinson

@travelwriternz

Brett travels and writes with a focus on emerging destinations, street food and craft beer. Read more about Aotea/Great Barrier Island on.

STHAPANA SRIYINGYONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

My home city of Auckland has more than 50 volcanoes, several of which hold special memories for me. But the one that tugs on my heart the most whenever I’m away for too long is Rangitoto, an elegantly sloped mountain sitting within the shimmering waters of the Hauraki Gulf. I very rarely set foot on the island itself, but I pine for the views of it rising above the city skyline or providing the backdrop to lazy days at the beach.

Peter Dragicevich

@PeterDragNZ

Peter is a writer and the director of an arts- and education-focused charity. Read more about Rangitoto on.

Jiri Foltyn/Shutterstock ©

Can’t beat a cruise out on Piopiotahi/Milford Sound. It’s equally superb whether you’ve got a mesmerising blue-sky day or it’s absolutely hosing down with rain. Waterfalls appear from nowhere, tumbling down vertical rock faces when it pours, while the surrounding peaks and towering mountains are breathtaking on a perfect day. What’s even better is if you’ve completed ‘the finest walk in the world’, the 54km Milford Track, to get there.

Craig McLachlan

@yuricraig

Craig lives in and loves Queenstown, surviving as a ‘freelance anything’. You can read more about Piopiotahi/Milford Sound on.

Blue Planet Studio/Shutterstock ©

It’s easy to think of Canterbury’s ancient landscapes as unchanging, not least the vast mountainous terrain of Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park, with its native wildflowers and birdlife including threatened rock wrens, endangered kea (alpine parrots) and incredibly rare kaki (black stilt) wading birds in the Tasman riverbed. Seeing the startling rate the Tasman glacier is retreating, though, is a forceful reminder of its impermanence – and the need to preserve this amazing planet.

Catherine Le Nevez

lonelyplanet.com/authors/catherine-le-nevez

A Lonely Planet author since 2004, Catherine has a doctorate in Creative Arts (Writing) and insatiable wanderlust. Turn to for more on Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park.

TRAVELLINGLIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©

It’s become more popular, but Mt Maunganui has always been my favourite beach escape. Sand and ocean stretch as far as the eye can see, and in recent years the town has come to life. It now boasts many well-loved businesses, from enticing bovutique stores to delicious cafes and restaurants. It also serves as a terrific base for exploring the rest of the Bay of Plenty – no adventure is too far away.

Nicole Mudgway

@travelwithsmudge

Nicole is a travel and food blogger and enthusiast. For more about Mount Maunganui, turn to.

DET-ANAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

As you travel around the South Island, remote landscapes become the norm. But there’s still something haunting about the quiet and wildness of Southern Westland, on the 120km drive between Fox Glacier and Haast World Heritage Area. Looking at a map, you’ll see what look like towns dotted along SH6: Karangarua, Bruce Bay (pictured), Paringa. In fact, there’s very little there, except for cold lakes, broad, braided rivers, stormy beaches, and untouched forests that tumble down the mountains to the Tasman Sea.

Elen Turner

@eleninthewilderness

Elen is a writer and editor based in Nelson at the Top of the South. For more on Southern Westland’s Haast World Heritage Area, turn to.

Rawinia Parata

Rawinia Parata is a wife, mother of three and local resident to Ruatoria on the East Coast of New Zealand. She is of Ngati Porou and Nga Tahu descent. She has a Master of Creative Writing and won the 2021 Brown Ink Award for her debut play, ‘Our Side of the Fence’, she was also selected to join Te Pou Theatre’s Koanga Festival where she developed her play ‘Poraru’.

Rawinia is an elected member of Council for the Tairawhiti Region and an active member of her community. She loves the quiet slowness of rural living and the beauty in the simplicity of country life.

Take a Dip

As it’s an island country, you’re never far from the beach in New Zealand. Up north the sand is golden, and it’s often calm on the East Coast. On the West Coast of the country you’ll find volcanic sand, wild waters and huge waves. Further from the coast, New Zealand’s lakes and rivers offer the chance to cool off on a hot day, and soaking in thermal pools and spas is a luxurious and relaxing winter experience.

Goat Island | NAZAR ABBAS PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Swim Safely

Check safeswim.org.nz or lawa.org.nz (in the ‘Can I swim here’ section) for water-quality levels in popular swimming spots and lifeguard-patrolled beaches.

NICKICHEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Surviving the Heat

Take a cover-up for when you’re sitting in the sun, wear sunglasses and reapply sunscreen after you swim. Rash shirts are best for kids.

ALONA_HRINCHENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Icy Waters

Some lakes and rivers in NZ are fed by glacial run-off and temperatures are very cold, even in summer. This is especially likely in mountainous areas.

Best Swimming experiences

Soak in the thermal waters in Hanmer Springs 1, a couple of hours out of Christchurch. The complex includes cascades, rock pools and waterslides.

Swim at Goat Island Marine Reserve 2, not far from Auckland.

Relax in the calm waters and white sand of idyllic Maitai Bay 3 at the furthest reach of Northland’s Karikari Peninsula.

Discover why Ōhope Beach 4, near Whakatane, is often referred to as the most loved beach in the country.

Rest in a golden cove in Abel Tasman National Park 5, at the top of the South Island, then kayak through clear water.

ON TWO WHEELS

Take advantage of New Zealand’s growing cycle network to explore the country at a slower pace, immersed in the stunning landscape. Cycle trails now criss-cross several parts of NZ and more than 20 Great Rides allow you to reach some of the most popular sites and activities in an environmentally sustainable way.

Otago Central Rail Trail | MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Great Rides of New Zealand

These 23 cycle routes showcase some of NZ’s most spectacular scenery. Visit nzcycletrail.com for more information on the tracks and trails.

Mountain Biking

Many of NZ’s mountains offer varied mountain-biking trails, catering for beginners through to advanced riders. Some are open year-round while others are seasonal.

BEST CYCLING EXPERIENCES

Travel coast to coast on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail 1, passing through Northland’s charming towns.

Cross suspension bridges between Arrowtown and Gibbston Valley on the Arrow River Bridges Trail 2.

Mountain bike along the rim of Lake Taupō on the Great Lake Trails 3, a set of three tracks on the lakeshore.

Discover the Tasman region’s best food and drink on the Great Taste Trail 4.

Explore Central Otago’s stunning countryside on the Lake Dunstan Trail 5, a purpose-built cycle route.

Kiwi Critters

Historically, New Zealand was home only to birds and one lizard, the tuatara, with no native mammals. The country’s isolation from other land masses allowed these species to evolve without predators. Other animals have since been introduced, so you’ll have to visit a predator-free sanctuary to see what NZ may have been like in the past.

Flightless Birds

Due to the lack of predators, NZ has more flightless birds than anywhere else in the world, including the kiwi, kākāpō and weka (pictured).

Frank Fichtmueller/shutterstock ©

Safe in the Bush

NZ has no snakes, scorpions or venomous insects. Venomous spiders – the native katipo, and red-back (pictured) and white-tailed spiders from Australia – are rarely seen.

KarenGiblettPhotography/shutterstock ©

In the Sea

Dolphins, whales, seals and penguins are found in NZ’s waters. Whales are best seen from Kaikōura, while dolphins and seals are visible on both islands.

Best Wildlife experiences

Watch seals relaxing on huge boulders at their colony at Cape Palliser 1, the southernmost point of NZ’s North Island.

Meet the cheeky kea (alpine parrot) in Arthur’s Pass 2, New Zealand’s highest settlement, en route between Christchurch and the West Coast.

See an abundance of marine animals in Kaikōura 3, including dolphins, orcas, seals and of course the local sperm whales.

Visit the albatrosses, see their breeding grounds and watch them soar through the air at the Royal Albatross Centre 4, just out of Dunedin.

Rakiura/Stewart Island 5 is the one of the few places you may see a kiwi in the wild, with the tokoeka (Rakiura brown kiwi) active during the day.

Journey on Foot

New Zealand is a hiker’s paradise, with a diverse range of trails to suit all levels of fitness and experience. Choose between short walks in stunning coastal and forest environments or multiday trekking adventures through rugged mountain landscapes. Some of the most popular tracks take you through breathtaking scenery and offer the chance to immerse yourself in NZ’s natural beauty, and see lakes, waterfalls and springs hidden from most visitors.

Hiking Fiordland National Park | Puripat Lertpunyaroj/shutterstock ©

Dress for the Conditions

Remember to dress in layers and bring a wind- and water-proof jacket with you when hiking. NZ’s weather can change quickly, especially in the mountains.

Maridav/Shutterstock ©

The Great Walks

These 10 multiday tracks are well formed, easy to follow and take you through incredible scenery. They aren’t always easy, but the views are worth it!

Tobin Akehurst/shutterstock ©

DOC Visitor Centres

You can find DOC visitor centres throughout the country, usually near popular national parks. Check in for advice and weather conditions before you set out.

Best Hiking experiences

Marvel at the dramatic, mountainous scenery on the four-day, 54km Milford Track 1, then top off the adventure with a boat ride under the falls.

Wander through native beech forest in Mount Aspiring National Park 2, passing alpine lakes, stunning views of the Southern Alps and the occasional waterfall.

Experience one of New Zealand’s best day walks on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing 3, or tackle the Tongariro Northern Circuit challenge.

Loop through a goblin forest to a collection of rock pools and waterfalls in the Wilkies Pools Loop Track 4 on Taranaki Maunga.

Hike the Kea Point Track 5 at Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park for spectacular views of Aoraki/Mt Cook, the Hooker Valley and ice faces.

The People of the Land

The indigenous culture is integral to NZ’s national identity, influencing many aspects of everyday life, including art, politics and sport, sometimes in a barely perceptible way. While you can learn about Māori history and see cultural artefacts at museums around the country, local maraes (meeting houses) are at the heart of Māori traditions. Visitors can experience local customs by watching a kapa haka (singing, dance and movement) performance and visiting a traditional Māori village.

Mine Bay, Lake Taupō | Leonard Zhukovsky/shutterstock ©

The Māori Population

Māori represent about 17% of New Zealand’s total population. The Tairāwhiti Gisborne, Northland and Bay of Plenty regions have highest percentage of Māori in their populations.

Frans Lemmens/GETTY IMAGES ©

Māori Arrival in NZ

According to Ngāpuhi, an iwi (tribe) in the far north, Kupe was the first to reach NZ from the ancestral homeland of Hawaiki, around a thousand years ago.

ChameleonsEye/shutterstock ©

Local Iwi

There are more than 100 iwi in New Zealand, with shared ancestors and roots in specific parts of the country. Each iwi has its own stories.

Best Cultural experiences

Learn about the Treaty of Waitangi and its importance to NZ at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds 1 in Northland.

Explore Waipoua Forest 2 with Māori guides to hear the indigenous wisdom about these ancient giants.

Admire the 10m-high face of Māori priest and explorer Ngātoro-i-rangi, carved into cliffs at Mine Bay 3 on Lake Taupō.

Take a tour of a Māori village at Te Puia 4 in Rotorua to witness singing, dancing and stories, and taste a hāngi meal.

Watch the sunrise from Maunga Hikurangi 5, sacred to local Ngai Porou people, and discover the stories of the demigod Māui.

Adventure Awaits

What better way to experience beautiful surroundings than with your adrenalin racing? NZ is known for its extreme sports and Queenstown is widely recognised as the adventure capital of the world. So while you’re here, challenge yourself to leap out of your comfort zone and see the scenery from a different perspective.

Skydiving over Lake Taupō | Mohd Fuad Rahim/shutterstock ©

World Firsts

Kawarau Bridge, near Queenstown, is the site of the world’s first commercial bungy-jumping operation… and you can still jump there now.

Low-risk Excitement

For those after a slightly less extreme adventure, try wandering amid the treetops, kayaking down the Whanganui River or jet-boating through a canyon.

BEST ADVENTURE EXPERIENCES

Plunge from the deck at Auckland’s Sky Tower 1 on a controlled 11-second, 85km/h wired descent.

Free fall over Taupō 2, enjoying views stretching from its lake to the snow-capped mountains of Tongariro National Park.

Soar over an ancient native forest at Canopy Tours 3 in Rotorua.

Climb up the 60m-tall Twin Falls 4 near Wānaka using a network of ladders and bridges.

Enjoy a blackwater rafting adventure through the glowworm-studded Waitomo Caves 5.

Bright Lights in Dark Places

With untainted night skies covering the majority of the South Island and three-quarters of the North Island, New Zealand is an exceptional place for star-gazing. Visitors can admire the stars independently or with a tour in two internationally accredited dark-sky reserves – Aoraki/Mackenzie and Wairarapa – as well as dark-sky parks and sanctuaries.

In Māori Culture

The maramataka (lunar calendar) identifies the best times to plant, harvest, fish and hunt. The reappearance of the Matariki star cluster marks the start of the Māori New Year.

AstroStar/shutterstock ©

Star-gazing Tips

Pick a clear night with no moon, wear layers, bring a portable chair and use a red light to maintain your night vision.

Matt Makes Photos/shutterstock ©

Best Star-gazing experiences

Gaze at the stars in the pollution-free sky from among the dunes bordering Medlands Beach 1 on Aotea/Great Barrier Island.

Marvel at the sunset or the shimmering aurora australis on Rakiura/Stewart Island 2 – you’ll see why the Māori name means ‘glowing skies’.

Soak in the star-filled skies of the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve 3, the largest in the southern hemisphere, from Mt John Observatory near Tekapo.

Head to Wai-iti Domain 4 near Nelson on a cloudless winter night to see the Scorpius constellation and the Milky Way.

Look through the historic Thomas Cooke telescope, constructed in 1867, then experience how it feels to be inside a spaceship at Wellington’s Carter Observatory 5.

LAID-BACK LAKESIDE

New Zealand’s lakes are popular holiday spots with both locals and international visitors – and for good reason. The country has more than 775 lakes, including crater lakes formed by volcanic eruptions, remote alpine lakes hidden in high mountains and glistening glacial lakes surrounded by mountains. Rotorua, Tekapo, Taupō and Queenstown’s Lake Wakatipu are firm fixtures on the tourist trail, but many other lakes offer a peaceful escape in picturesque surroundings.

Lake Rotoiti | Tobin Akehurst/shutterstock ©

Turquoise Waters

Glacial lakes and rivers are a beautiful turquoise colour, caused by fine silt particles left behind by glaciers melting into the water.

Darrenp/Shutterstock ©

A Volcanic Crater

Lake Taupō occupies a caldera formed when a supervolcano erupted. The volcano’s last major eruption, around 1800 years ago, was the most violent eruption in the world over the last 5000 years.

ChameleonsEye/shutterstock ©

Sacred Places

Some lakes, such as Rotokākahi (Green Lake) in Rotorua and Rotokura near Ohakune, are tapu (sacred). No swimming is allowed in these lakes.

Best Lakeside experiences

Camp at Northland’s secluded Kai Iwi Lakes 1, with clear waters, white sand and a shady pine forest.

Cruise to Mou Waho island 2 in Lake Wānaka and see the remarkable islet in a lake in an island in a lake.

Wander the Great Lake Pathway 3, stretching along pretty bays from Taupō harbour to Waitahanui, some with hot water oozing up through the sand.

Explore the 16 lakes in peaceful Nelson Lakes National Park 4 from St Arnaud village on Lake Rotoiti.

Admire turquoise Lake Pukaki 5, with views of snow-capped Aoraki/Mt Cook in the distance.

Raise a Glass

Many Kiwis enjoy a drink, so it should come as no surprise that the country produces some excellent wine, sprits and beer. NZ is well known for its wine regions, particularly its Marlborough sauvignon blanc and Central Otago pinot noir. Beyond wine, NZ is home to a thriving craft-beer scene, and several boutique distilleries have recently opened. You can visit many wineries, breweries and distilleries for tastings, and quite a few also have good restaurants.

Schubert Wines, Martinborough | David Wall/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Craft Beer

Over 200 breweries in New Zealand produce and serve high-quality beer in a range of styles from light lagers to hoppy IPAs.

NataliaCatalina.com/Shutterstock ©

Local Gin

Several boutique gin distilleries have recently opened in NZ, using locally sourced ingredients to create unique products that are gaining popularity domestically and internationally.

Rusana Krasteva/Shutterstock ©

Local Wine Varieties

Sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, pinot gris and chardonnay account for 90% of NZ’s wine production. Other varieties are on the rise, including riesling, syrah and Bordeaux blends.

Best Wine & Beer experiences

Discover craft beer from around the country on the Auckland Beer Mile 1 from Mt Eden via Kingsland to Morningside.

Enjoy a glass of Central Otago pinot noir and lunch overlooking the valley at Mt Difficulty Wines 2 in Bannockburn.

Taste the flavours of West Coast rainforests at Reefton Distilling Co 3, known for its high-quality gins, liqueurs, vodkas and whiskies.

Visit the home of one of NZ’s most popular beers, Monteith’s 4, brewed in Greymouth since 1868.

Spend a couple of days in Martinborough 5 and sample local wines from the small, family-owned vineyards near the town.

Earth’s Restless Giants

Volcanic activity has left its marks on New Zealand, resulting in some extraordinarily beautiful landscapes. Many North Island hills and mountains are extinct or dormant volcanoes, including those around Auckland. Volcanic landscapes are part of everyday life here: locals ski on Mt Ruapehu, boat on Lake Taupō (in a volcano caldera) and even generate electricity from geothermal sources. Visitors to New Zealand can (safely) get up close to many geothermal activities during their trip.

Wairakei Terraces | Pavel Dudek/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Volcanoes Around Auckland

Auckland is surrounded by more than 50 volcanoes, which have shaped the city’s landscape. The volcanic field is considered dormant and unlikely to erupt.

Mark Meredith/GETTY IMAGES ©

Whakaari/White Island

Whakaari, New Zealand’s most active volcano and once a popular tourist destination, is now only visible from a distance after a deadly eruption in 2019.

Kieran Scott/getty images ©

Mt Doom

Mt Ngauruhoe in Tongariro National Park served as Mt Doom in Peter Jackson’s The Lord of the Rings movie. Despite being active, it’s a popular hiking destination, offering stunning views.

Best Geothermal experiences

Stroll up Maungawhau/Mt Eden 1, the highest of Auckland’s volcanoes, and wonder at both the view from the summit and the depth of the crater.

Climb 156m up Paritutu 2, the lava plug of an ancient volcano in Taranaki, and see the volcanic Sugar Loaf Islands (Ngā Motu) from the top.

Soak in the warm water at Wairakei Terraces 3, where subterranean water feeds an artificial geyser and cascades down silica terraces.

Explore a world of steaming springs, boiling mud and spurting geysers at Ōrākei Kōrako 4.

Cycle through Waimangu Volcanic Valley 5 in Rotorua and see the steaming Inferno Crater Lake, which rises and falls as it heats and cools.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Northern Highlights

Allow: 7 days Distance: 809km

Starting in New Zealand’s largest city, this route takes you south along the East Coast to some of the beaches best loved by Kiwis. Learn about Māori culture and see geothermal wonders in Rotorua before heading back to Auckland.

Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest | ChameleonsEye/Shutterstock ©

1 Auckland 2 DAYS

A couple of days in Auckland gives you the chance to recover from jet lag and see a couple of city highlights. Wander around the centre and have dinner at one of the excellent restaurants on Karangahape Rd (‘K Rd’), then explore further afield with a trip to Waiheke Island (pictured) or a black-sand beach on the West Coast.

Troy Wegman/Shutterstock ©

2 Hahei 2 DAYS

Spend a few days on the Coromandel Peninsula discovering why this is a favourite holiday spot for locals. Walk along the coastal trail to stunning Cathedral Cove (pictured), dig your own natural pool at Hot Water Beach and see some of the remote shores at the tip of the peninsula. Spend a day surfing in the breaks near Whangamatā or just wandering around the coastal town.

Peter Unger/getty images ©

3 Mount Maunganui 1 DAY

This pretty seaside town is set around the base of an extinct volcano. Popular with cruise ships, and with a vibrant town centre, the Mount has a great selection of cafes, restaurants and interesting shops. It’s a great place for surfing, hiking and swimming. Relax on long, golden Main Beach or head a little further down the coast to Papamoa for a less crowded stretch of sand.

Photos BrianScantlebury/Shutterstock ©

4 Rotorua 2 DAYS

The centre of geothermal activity in New Zealand, Rotorua is also a great place to learn about Māori culture. Soak in a thermal pool, see boiling streams and wander through the stunning Whakarewarewa Forest to see the impressive redwoods. Visit a traditional Māori village and enjoy an authentic Māori feast. Round off your trip by stopping at Hobbiton or the Waitomo Caves on the way back to Auckland.

Bob Hilscher/Shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Lower North Island

Allow: 7 days Distance: 911km

This route takes you from compact Wellington on a journey around the lower North Island through some of NZ’s most beautiful yet less visited spots. See how the locals live along the rolling hills of Hawkes Bay and lakeside Taupō, probably the most touristy place on this itinerary.

Tama Lakes | valiant.skies/Shutterstock ©

1 Wellington 2 DAYS

Spend a couple of days in the small but quirky capital surrounded by rolling hills, scenic beaches and a lovely harbour. The city is renowned for its arts and cultural scene, with numerous galleries, museums and theatres showcasing local talent. Be sure to try the craft beer and at least a couple of the local restaurants during your stay.

Detour: Taste local wine in Martinborough 3 hours.

ChameleonsEye/Shutterstock ©

2 Napier 2 DAYS

Rebuilt in the 1930s after a devastating earthquake, Napier is known for its Art Deco architectural style. Wander around the city, see the gardens and nearby beach, then head on a tasting tour of the nearby Hawke’s Bay wineries. Be sure to visit pretty Havelock North and see the view of Te Mata Peak. Break up the drive to Gisborne with a dip at the Māhia Peninsula.

Philip Armitage/Shutterstock ©

3 Taupō 2 DAYS

There’s a lot to do in Taupō, so make sure to spend a few days here, particularly if you enjoy the outdoors. Wander along the lake and enjoy the views, then choose from some of the activities on offer: hot springs, skydiving, bungy jumping, white-water rafting… This is the best base for Tongariro National Park, where you’ll find some of the best hiking in NZ.

Mohd Fuad Rahim/Shutterstock ©

4 Whanganui 1 DAY

Visit this historic riverside town, then spend the rest of the day canoeing or kayaking down the Whanganui River. If you have more time, extend your trip with the full three- to five-day Whanganui Journey, the only Great Walk that doesn’t involve any walking. Alternatively, take a jet boat down the river and walk on to see the remarkable Bridge to Nowhere surrounded by forest.

trabantos/Shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Top of the South Island Adventure

Allow: 7 days Distance: 995km

This itinerary takes you through the magical landscapes of the upper South Island. Here you’ll find ancient forests, the craggy Southern Alps, and the wild beaches of the West Coast. The contrasts between these destinations are startling and the longer drives are well worth the effort.

Hokitika Gorge | Guy Cowdry/Shutterstock ©

1 Christchurch 2 DAYS

Christchurch has always been known for its English heritage, and its post-earthquake regeneration has brought cutting-edge architecture, street art and innovative projects to the city. Wander through the centre to see new buildings alongside the old, and stroll along the Avon River (pictured) with its stunning natural landscape. Then spend a day in nearby Akaroa, visiting its interesting museums and fascinating marine life.

BOYLOSO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Hokitika 2 DAYS

The route to Hokitika goes through beautiful Arthur’s Pass, before arriving in the West Coast’s ‘Cool Little Town’. Explore the quirky centre, see the driftwood sculptures on the black beach and try some of the excellent food. Don’t miss Hokitika Gorge, where a short walk brings you to a swing bridge hanging over a turquoise river.

Detour: Drive further down the coast to see the Franz Josef Glacier. 6 hours.

MARCOBRIVIO.PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Nelson 2 DAYS

One of NZ’s oldest cities, Nelson is known for its thriving arts scene, craft breweries, and vibrant food and coffee culture. Located between the Tasman and Marlborough regions, the town makes a great base for day trips. Nelson Lakes National Park, Abel Tasman National Park, Golden Bay and the Marlborough Sounds are all within a couple of hours’ drive.

GG-FOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Kaikōura 1 DAY

Kaikōura is famous for two things – whale watching and crayfish – and you should try them both while you’re here. Go out on the water to see the whales, along with the resident dolphins and seals. In town, you’ll find many places to try excellent seafood, and several coastal walks offer breathtaking scenery. For more of an adventure, try whale watching by helicopter.

KONRAD MOSTERT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

Lower South Island Adventures

Allow: 2 weeks Distance: 1146km

The southern regions of NZ are known for their spectacular natural beauty and adventure activities. This route gives you a taste of them all. Travel from the resort town of Queenstown to the historic centres of Ōamaru and Dunedin, then through the Catlins to Milford Sound, a highlight of any trip to New Zealand.

View from Queenstown Gondola | Naruedom Yaempongsa/shutterstock ©

1 Queenstown 3 DAYS

Queenstown is walkable and has excellent amenities, its restaurants are world class, and its surroundings are breathtaking. See the views from the top of the Queenstown Gondola, visit nearby Arrowtown and Glenorchy, try local wine, then choose from an endless list of outdoor and adventure activities.

Olaf Bender/getty images ©

2 Wānaka 1 DAY

Quieter than Queenstown, Wānaka also has lovely views, a pretty town centre and many activities to choose from, including water sports, lake cruises and mountain biking. Spend at least one night here if you’re planning to hike in Mt Aspiring National Park (pictured) or spend a day on the ski slopes.

Detour: Visit historic Cromwell and the Central Otago Bannockburn wineries 3 hours.

Ooriya Ron/Shutterstock ©

3 Lake Tekapo 2 DAYS

The drive through Mackenzie Country will bring you to enchanting Lake Tekapo, known for its stone chapel and otherworldly turquoise colour. Spend a night in nearby Twizel and see the stars in the southern hemisphere’s largest dark-sky reserve. The next day, go hiking in Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park. The views here are so stunning you may want to stay.

Blue Planet Studio/Shutterstock ©

4 Ōamaru 2 DAYS

Ōamaru has a wonderful historic precinct and a quirky culture. Learn about the town’s history, visit the oldest public gardens (pictured) in the country and enjoy the overall vibe. In the evening, cosy up to watch the arrival of the little blue penguins.

Bob Hilscher/Shutterstock ©

5 Dunedin 2 DAYS

As well as having impressive Victorian and Edwardian architecture, and all the conveniences you’d expect from a large city, Dunedin is well positioned for visitors keen to see some of Otago’s most interesting wildlife. The Royal Albatross Centre (pictured) is a must-visit.

imagoDens/Shutterstock ©

6 Catlins 1 DAY

The Catlins are a largely untouched place with a petrified forest, coastline and stunning waterfalls. Explore the McLean Falls (pictured), hike in the stunning Catlins Conservation Park and spot wildlife such as the New Zealand fur seal and the hoiho (yellow-eyed penguin).

Philip Armitage/Shutterstock ©

7 Te Anau 2 DAYS

The gateway to Fiordland National Park, Te Anau is a good base for visiting the famous Milford Sound (pictured). While you’re here, do a short walk through the national park or opt for a multiday hike – the Milford, Kepler and Routeburn tracks all begin in the park.

Marconi Couto de Jesus/Shutterstock ©

WHEN TO GO

New Zealand is a destination that can be enjoyed year-round, with different seasons offering their own unique experiences.

While summer is popular with locals, other times of year have lots to offer too. The shoulder seasons, spring and autumn, offer quieter and more budget-friendly travel options, with warm days, beautiful scenery and temperate weather. As you’d expect, winter is the best time to visit for snow sports and clear skies; the best snow falls in July and August. Summer is the best time to visit for sunny beach days, adventures on the water, and beautiful bushwalks and hikes.

I LIVE HERE

SAND DUNES & WARM SEAS

Northland-based Blair Coates is the founder and owner of a NZ natural skincare and wellness company @nudipoint

‘We visit Opononi regularly, but it’s at its best in spring and summer. The water is warm enough for swimming, and the sand dunes are stark against the blue sky and sea. Opononi is quaint and quiet; we come here to unwind and enjoy the stunning surroundings. When we arrive, I see the huge dunes rising out of the harbour and I know it’s time to relax.’

The Holiday Peak

December to February, particularly around Christmas and New Year, is peak time in NZ. The school holidays stretch from December to late January, and a scattering of public holidays mean locals are also travelling over this period. Accommodation and activity prices are at their highest and it’s important to book ahead. Visit from April to May (after Easter) or from September to November for the best prices.

Skiing, Mt Ruapehu | Guy Cowdry/shutterstock ©

RAINY DAYS

New Zealand is very green for a reason! It can rain a lot, and rainfall is relatively evenly spread throughout the year. Visitors should always pack a raincoat, as showers can occur at any time.

GO WHERE IT’S WARM

If you’re after a sunny stay, the Bay of Plenty, Hawke’s Bay, and Nelson and Marlborough are the sunniest places in New Zealand. During the summer months, daylight can last until 9.30pm due to daylight saving.

Big Events

Waitangi Day commemorates the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. The festival takes place at the Treaty Grounds and features traditional Māori cultural performances, speeches and other activities. February

The Pasifika Festival celebrates NZ’s Pacific Islander culture and takes place in Auckland. Visitors can enjoy music and dance performances, traditional food, and craft markets. March

Enjoy three days of music, arts and dance at WOMAD, a festival in New Plymouth with international and local acts spread across multiple stages. When you need a breather, join an interactive workshop or browse through the art market. March

Marking the Māori New Year, Matariki is a time to celebrate Māori culture and heritage, with events such as traditional hāngi feasts, cultural performances, and exhibitions held throughout the country. June/July

I LIVE HERE

GOLDEN VINEYARDS

Josh Barclay is based in Blenheim and is the sustainability manager for a local winery @whitehavenwines

I love Marlborough in autumn. The craziness of the grape harvest has died down and winemakers are hard at work preparing their new vintages. The summer crowds have dissipated, and the countryside turns a beautiful shade of gold as the vines prepare for winter. The days are warm and still, perfect for wandering through the vineyards and enjoying a glass of wine in the afternoon sun.

Local Festivities

In Hokitika, the Driftwood & Sand Festival sees professional and emerging artists create works on the beach from natural materials (including, as you may have guessed, driftwood). January

Get immersed in all things vintage at the Whangamatā Beach Hop. Held in the seaside town of Whangamatā, this annual event features a parade of classic cars, live music and a variety of market stalls. March

Celebrate the turning of the seasons at the Arrowtown Autumn Festival, held in the charming historic village of Arrowtown. You’ll see the town at its best, with street parades, live music, arts and crafts, and stunning autumn leaves everywhere. April

Devote 11 days to Nelson during the Arts Festival. Enjoy cutting-edge performances and thought-provoking installations by local and international artists. October

PREPARE FOR THE SUN

Due to the hole in the ozone layer and low pollution, the sun in New Zealand is very harsh and strong, even in winter. Dress in layers, wear a hat and sunglasses, and apply sunscreen when you visit.

Pasifika Festival | Phil Walter/Getty Images ©

Weather Through the Year

JANUARY

Avg daytime max: 22°C

Days of rainfall: 8

FEBRUARY

Avg daytime max: 23°C

Days of rainfall: 7

MARCH

Avg daytime max: 22°C

Days of rainfall: 7

APRIL

Avg daytime max: 19°C

Days of rainfall: 8

MAY

Avg daytime max: 17°C

Days of rainfall: 6

JUNE

Avg daytime max: 15°C

Days of rainfall: 10

JULY

Avg daytime max: 14°C

Days of rainfall: 11

AUGUST

Avg daytime max: 14°C

Days of rainfall: 11

SEPTEMBER

Avg daytime max: 16°C

Days of rainfall: 10

OCTOBER

Avg daytime max: 17°C

Days of rainfall: 9

NOVEMBER

Avg daytime max: 22°C

Days of rainfall: 11

DECEMBER

Avg daytime max: 21°C

Days of rainfall: 9

GET PREPARED

FOR NEW ZEALAND

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain

Tongariro Alpine Crossing | Maridav/shutterstock ©

Clothes

Layers: The weather in NZ can change very quickly, especially in mountainous areas. Even in cities, it’s not unusual to have four seasons in one day, so dressing in layers is a good idea.

Hat and sunglasses: The sun is quite strong in NZ, so bring a hat with you, even if you aren’t visiting in summer.

Waterproof jacket: Rainfall is steady year-round. Bring a waterproof jacket with you, just in case. A compact one is best if you plan to go hiking.

Comfortable walking shoes: Bring a good pair of walking shoes or hiking boots if you plan to attempt a longer trail. Hikes in NZ can be more challenging than visitors expect and good footwear is essential.

Manners

Don’t sit on tables or desks as this is seen as disrespectful by Māori.

Take off your shoes when visiting people’s homes.

If you’re invited to someone’s house for dinner, bring something to share during the meal, or a small gift for the host, such as a bottle of wine or box of chocolates.

Learn a few Māori words – kupu.co.nz is a good place to start

READ

Auē (Becky Manawatu; 2019) A beautiful and haunting novel about music, family and gang violence in NZ.

Cousins (Patricia Grace; 1992) The story of NZ history from the 1940s to the 1990s told through three women’s lives.

The Villa at the Edge of the Empire (Fiona Farrell; 2015) An insightful look at life in Christchurch after the 2011 earthquake.

The Penguin History of New Zealand (Michael King; 2003) A solid overview of NZ history.

Words

Aotearoa The Māori name for New Zealand, translating to ‘long white cloud’

‘Haere mai’ ‘Welcome.’ You’ll often see this written on signs as you come into a town.

bach A holiday home, often close to the beach

‘bro/cuz/mate’ Often used when talking to a friend

‘Ka kite ano’ ‘See you again soon’

tramping hiking or bushwalking

jandals Rubber flip-flops (known as thongs in Australia)

togs The local word for a swimsuit

‘Yeah, nah’ A noncommittal statement or acknowledgement often meaning no or maybe.

L&P Lemon & Paeroa, a lemon-flavoured soft drink originally made in the town of Paeroa in the Coromandel Peninsula but now mass produced by Coco-Cola Amatil

kai food

koha Translates as ‘gift’, but usually refers to a donation, often for entry

‘Morena’ ‘Good morning’

‘Ngā mihi’ ‘Greetings’, ‘thanks’ or ‘kind regards’. This phrase is often used to sign off emails, especially at work.

pākehā New Zealander of non-Māori descent, usually European.

whanau family

hokey pokey Local ice-cream flavour with chunks of butterscotch embedded in vanilla ice cream

chilly bin A portable cooler box or cooler bag

‘chur/chur bro’ means ‘thanks/cheers’

dairy corner store

‘kia kaha’ ‘Stay strong’ – this is an often-used phrase.

‘kia ora’ ‘Hello’

‘Sweet as’ ‘All good’ or ‘Well done’

WATCH

Whina (Paula Whetu Jones and James Napier Robertson; 2022) A biopic of Māori leader Dame Whina Cooper, an advocate for Māori rights and land.

Hunt for the Wilderpeople (pictured; Taika Waititi; 2016) A Kiwi classic, suitable for families and set in the NZ wilderness.

Under the Vines (Erin White; 2021) A comedy series about two city people who inherit an NZ vineyard.

New Zealand Today (Guy Williams; 2019) A local comedian investigates quirky stories in grassroots NZ.

Wellington Paranormal (Jemaine Clement, Jackie van Beek and Tim van Dammen; 2018) A smart, funny spin-off from the 2014 film What We Do in the Shadows.

Album/Alamy Stock Photo ©

LISTEN

The Aotearoa History Show (Radio New Zealand; 2019) A podcast giving an accessible history of NZ.

Castle St (SIX60; 2022) The fourth studio album from this iconic NZ band is a feel-good accompaniment to a Kiwi summer.

Solar Power (Lorde; 2021) Lorde’s third album lets you recharge, take a breath and escape everyday life for a few minutes.

Gone by Lunchtime (The Spinoff; 2016) A regular podcast giving witty and typically Kiwi analysis of the NZ political scene.

THE FOOD SCENE

Indulge in New Zealand’s delicious bounty, featuring fresh seafood, local produce and exceptional wine.

Hāngī | Boyloso/shutterstock ©

Tasting the local food and wine is one of the many pleasures of travelling in New Zealand. The country has a thriving culinary scene, with chefs, winemakers and artisan producers who take full advantage of the excellent local and seasonal ingredients. New Zealand’s South Pacific location is reflected in the abundant kai moana (seafood) and fresh fish. The country’s diverse population has also led to a variety of international cuisine options, particularly in Auckland and Wellington.

Wine lovers will also be pleased to discover the abundance of vineyards that offer fantastic dining, often in the very same place where the wine is produced. For those who enjoy cooking or are looking to save money, local farmers markets provide a variety of fresh ingredients, making self-catering a tempting option. Regardless of whether you prefer to dine at a restaurant or cook your own meals, the local food will be a highlight of your travels in New Zealand.

Māori & Pasifika Food

An easy and delicious way for visitors to gain some insight into the local Māori culture is through food. Māori food showcases the deep connection between local people and the land and sea. Traditional dishes such as kai moana (seafood), hāngī (meat and vegetables cooked in the earth) and kūmara (sweet potato) are central to Māori cuisine, as well as to some other cultures of the South Pacific islands. To try some of these foods, join a Māori cultural experience in Rotorua or head to festivals and events, where food trucks might offer traditional dishes.

Vegans & Vegetarians

Over the last few years there has been an increasing focus on vegan and vegetarian options in New Zealand. Major cities, including Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, are home to a range of plant-based restaurants, cafes and food trucks, and this is also becoming more common in smaller towns. You can usually find at least some vegetarian and vegan options in restaurants and cafes throughout the country. Supermarkets and speciality stores stock a variety of suitable products, from plant-based milks to meat alternatives.

Night Markets

Catering primarily to locals, and showcasing NZ’s diverse cultures, night markets are a vibrant celebration of food, culture and community. They’re particularly popular in Auckland, but they’re hosted in cities and towns across the country throughout summer. You can expect a hub of activity, with vendors selling an array of tasty street food, as well as crafts and locally made products. You can try everything from authentic Asian street food to contemporary vegan dishes, while taking in the buzz of live music. The atmosphere is lively, and the air is filled with the mouth-watering scent of sizzling meats, aromatic spices and fresh ingredients. For details on night markets in Auckland, check aucklandnightmarkets.co.nz and foodtruckcollective.co.nz.

New Zealand mussels | zhgee/shutterstock ©

Best Kiwi Dishes

HĀNGĪ

Lamb, pork or chicken cooked underground.

NEW ZEALAND ROAST LAMB

Flavoured with rosemary, served with seasonal vegetables.

GREEN-LIPPED MUSSELS

Served grilled, steamed with white wine or in a fritter.

CRAYFISH

Resemble small lobsters; usually boiled and eaten with your fingers.

PAVLOVA

A fluffy, meringue-style dessert, piled high with cream and fruit.

CLASSIC NZ PIE

Depends who you ask, but steak and cheese or mince and cheese is the local favourite.

FISH AND CHIPS

Battered fish served with chips; eaten on the beach as a takeaway or in a pub.

PAUA

Black abalone cooked in cream or baked into a fritter.

FOOD & WINE FESTIVALS

Marlborough Wine & Food Festival (marlboroughwinefestival.com; February) Try the food and wine Marlborough is famous for at Blenheim’s longest-running festival of dining and drinking.

Hokitika Wildfoods Festival (wildfoods.co.nz; March) Celebrates the unusual and wild flavours and produce of the West Coast.

Bluff Oyster & Food Festival (bluffoysterfest.co.nz; May) Oysters, live entertainment and a variety of seafood and local produce take over the seaside town of Bluff.

Beervana (beervana.co.nz; August) At this Wellington event you can sample beer from around the country surrounded by live performances and quirky street entertainers.

Whitianga Oceans Festival (oceansfestival.co.nz; September) A celebration of local seafood accompanied by NZ beer and wine, live bands, buskers and cooking classes.

Vineyard, Marlborough | Jeffrey B. Banke/shutterstock ©

THE YEAR IN FOOD

SUMMER

This is the time for stone fruit and berries, including blueberries, plums, grapes, avocados and Central Otago cherries. The best fruit is available from farmers markets and at roadside stalls.

HO SU A BI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

AUTUMN

Taste the richness of autumn with juicy citrus, fresh feijoas (pictured) and figs. Succulent Bluff oysters are also in season and it’s harvest time at NZ wineries.

CHRIS MELVILLE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WINTER

Enjoy fresh shellfish, fennel, leeks and rhubarb. Savour Northland mandarins and oranges, try black Perigord truffles from the Bay of Plenty (or pick your own in Te Puke) and indulge in juicy kiwifruit.