Travel Guide Best Road Trips California 5

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to California

Our Picks

When to Go

Get Prepared for 
California

BY REGION

California’s Greatest Hits & Las Vegas

Mission Trail

Pacific Coast Highways

Northern California

Marin County

Bay Area Culinary Tour

Napa Valley

Sonoma Valley

Healdsburg & Around

Russian River & Bohemian Highway

Mendocino & Anderson Valley

Lost Coast & Southern Redwoods

Northern Redwood Coast

Trinity Scenic Byway

Volcanic Legacy Byway

Central California

Big Sur

Along Highway 1 to Santa Cruz

Around Monterey & Carmel

Around San Luis Obispo

Santa Barbara Wine Country

Lake Tahoe Loop

Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon

Eastern Sierra Scenic Byway

Highway 49 Through Gold Country

Ebbetts Pass Scenic Byway

Feather River Scenic Byway

Sacramento Delta & Lodi

Southern California

Disneyland & Orange County Beaches

Fun on the San Diego Coast

SoCal Pop Culture

Route 66

Life in Death Valley

Palm Springs & Joshua Tree Oases

Temecula, Julian & Anza-Borrego

BACK MATTER

Arriving

Getting Around

Accommodations

Cars

Health & Safe Travel

Responsible Travel

Nuts & Bolts

Behind the Scenes

The Writers

Welcome to California

California dreamin’? The reality’s even better. Grab your keys, slip on your sunglasses and put the pedal to the metal. Incredible landscapes, sensational food and glimpses of the future all await on the USA’s creative coast.

Already live in California? Rest assured there are plenty more scenic routes, swimming holes and a goldmine of mom-and-pop restaurants to discover.

California’s road trips swoop from the breezy, wildlife-rich Pacific coast, to the towering redwoods of Big Sur and the north, to off-the-beaten-track deserts and gold-rush towns, to big-name national parks including Yosemite, Death Valley and Joshua Tree, and through the vine-strewn valleys of celebrated wine countries from Sonoma to Santa Barbara. From backcountry lanes to beachside byways, the Golden State’s got something for you.

Pacific Coast Highway, Big Sur

DOUG MEEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Our Picks

BEST NATURE ROUTES

In California, Mother Nature has been as prolific as Picasso in his prime. Blissful beaches, unspoiled wilderness, big-shouldered mountains, high-country meadows, desert sand dunes and trees as tall as the Statue of Liberty – this land is an intoxicating mosaic that has inspired visionaries, artists and wanderers for centuries.

ZERO EMMISSIONS

California is an environmental regulation leader. By 2035, all new cars and light trucks sold statewide must be zero-emission.

California coastal redwood forest

SON HOANG NGUYEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1 Pacific Coast Highway

Cruise the broad, blissful beaches of Hwy 1 from San Diego to Big Sur and beyond.

2 Avenue of the Giants

Find your inspiration winding your way past the world’s biggest redwood trees in Humboldt County.

3 Kings Canyon Scenic Byway

Descend into California’s deepest river canyon, an eye-popping, twisting drive full of giant sequoias.

4 Ebbetts Pass Scenic Byway

Climb over the rooftop of the Sierra Nevada from Gold Country to Lake Tahoe.

5 Eastern Sierra Scenic Byway

Trace the rugged backside of the Sierra Nevada mountains, for high-altitude vistas and ghost towns.

Bixby Creek Bridge, Hwy 1

MICHAEL URMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLASTIC BANS

A number of California municipalities have banned plastic straws and Styrofoam in food service. Single-use items like ketchup packets are on request only.

Our Picks

BEST SMALL TOWNS

Los Angeles, San Francisco and San Diego may grab the spotlight, but outside the big cities you can still find the charm of old California. From miner towns to hippie haunts, amble through farm towns, don dude-ranch chic, sip wine, soak in hot springs, scarf apple pie and relive the past that continues to make the Golden State, well, golden.

FREE ENTRY

Some of California’s nearly 300 state parks have free admission; others charge $10-plus to park; many residents park outside and walk in.

1 Arcata

Bohemian, college-town counterculture behind the Redwood Curtain, in the heart of the North Coast.

2 Calistoga

The place for Napa Valley’s blue-jeans-and-boots crowd and hot-springs lovers.

Calistoga, Napa Valley

DRAGAN JOVANOVIC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Nevada City

Relive history in this atmospheric, Old West mining town with a quaint main drag.

4 Los Olivos

Early California charm rules amid the vineyards and horse ranches of Santa Barbara Wine Country.

5 Julian

Pine-covered mountains, tree-shaded valleys and apple pie for days, in northern San Diego County.

Our Picks

BEST FOODIE FAVOURITES

California cuisine is a team effort that changes with every season – and it has changed the way the world eats. Fusion here is not a fad but second nature. It starts with seasonal, local ingredients courtesy of the Mediterranean climate and soil. Then, foodways from across Mexico, Latin America and Asia – even the Caribbean and Africa – bring extra spice. No matter your palate, there’s a way to satisfy it.

KIDS’ MENUS

When traveling with littles ones, call restaurants ahead to make sure they can accommodate food and seating needs.

1 Ferry Building

Duck inside SF’s landmark featuring local, sustainable food producers and a legendary farmers market.

2 Napa & Sonoma Wine Country

Taste your way through this idyllic, epicurean paradise which put California wines on the culinary map.

3 Bay Area

Wander the aisles of farmers markets and drop in on artisanal food and drink producers.

4 Grand Central Market

For smashburgers to vegan ramen, roam Downtown LA’s gourmet food hall, going strong since 1917.

Grand Central Market, Los Angeles

4KODIAK/GETTY IMAGES ©

5 Highway 49 & Gold Country

Sip Zinfandel in the Sierra Nevada foothills and explore the farms of Apple HIll.

Our Picks

BEST ROADSIDE ATTRACTIONS

Life’s a beach in California, and so much more as well. When the fog lifts, the state’s 840 miles of shoreline truly give its ‘golden’ moniker justice. Warm, wide beaches fill the south; rock crags, mists and drama define the north. Find family fun in La Jolla, ogle world-class surfers in Huntington Beach, mingle with eccentrics in Venice Beach, cuddle at sunset in Big Sur, or find yourself on the stunning Lost Coast. And alongside the classics, you’ll find quirky, roadside oddities.

SAFETY FIRST

If outdoors during an earthquake, stay in an open space. If indoors, get under a desk or table.

1 Trees of Mystery

Animatronic Paul Bunyan in the redwoods, a shameless but lovable tourist trap in Klamath.

2 Solvang

Where windmills collide with Danish village kitsch, a great base for Santa Barbara Wine Country.

Solvang

BILL MORSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Elmer’s Place

Folk-art ‘bottle trees’ in a desolate stretch of desert on the iconic Route 66.

4 World’s Biggest Dinosaurs

These concrete behemoths outside Palm Springs are no desert apparition, but they sure are fun.

5 Mirage Volcano

Erupting nightly on the Las Vegas Strip. Then cool off watching the Bellagio’s dancing fountains.

Our Picks

BEST MOVIE MAGIC

To Shakespeare all the world may have been a stage, but in California, it is actually more of a film set. For a century, ‘the industry’ has made audiences laugh, cry and come back for more. To witness the magic, join a live studio audience or go on a tour of a movie studio in LA. Then stand in the celebrities’ footprints and take in some famous filming locations.

LOG IN

Download theme-park apps so you can streamline your visit: check out hours, last-minute closings, dining, maps and more.

1 Hollywood

Stand in a star’s footprints at TCL Chinese Theatre, next to the Dolby Theatre, home of the Oscars.

2 San Francisco

Relive film-noir classics like John Huston’s The Maltese Falcon and Alfred Hitchcock’s Vertigo.

3 Santa Cruz

Play like a Lost Boy at the horror-flick locations on the Boardwalk.

4 Eastern Sierra

Get misty-eyed over old-fashioned Westerns filmed in Lone Pine and the Alabama Hills.

Alabama Hills

JLF06/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 San Diego

Stay classy in filming locations from Some Like It Hot to Top Gun and Anchorman.

When to Go

California is truly a destination for all seasons, but keep these tips in mind to stay ahead of the weather.

Despite California’s ‘endless summer’ reputation, the climate can differ dramatically across the year and from region to region. That said, it’s high season almost everywhere from June through August with kids’ school holidays and tourists arriving from around the state, nation and world. Spring in California is brilliant after winter rains, with bright-green meadows and blooming wildflowers. While temperatures are equally comfortable and it can be sunny and cloudless in the fall, increasingly those dry months from September to November have become known as fire season. It’s vital to be vigilant about the fire danger – do not light open flames, ever, and keep an eye on the news.

Tournament of Roses parade, Pasadena

KIT LEONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

I LIVE HERE

AN LA TRAFFIC REPORTER DRIVES CALIFORNIA

‘KFI in the Sky’ reporter Will Kohlschreiber @WILLonKFI

There are two Californias. The first is the congested tangle of freeways and pothole-scarred streets in densely populated urban centers. The other begins on the ‘outskirts’ – Interstate 5, just north of State Rte 126. Or I-10 east of Cabazon. Or I-15 at the summit of Cajon Pass.

Here we penetrate an invisible barrier, from city madness to serenity.

Beautiful, open roadways, the scent of ozone and freshly moistened creosote after a thunderstorm, or hundreds of miles of Central Valley farmland.

Then there’s that drive along any slice of coastline... Heaven.

Santa Barbara and the Santa Ynez mountains

JOHN PENNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TOP TIP

Time your travel to avoid high season (and the coast most weekends). Accommodations prices are 50% to 100% higher on average than the rest of the year.

Coastal Fog Up North…

Especially in Northern California, summer is marked by coastal fog that doesn’t always burn off. San Francisco can be blanketed with fog and chilly, when just inland in Oakland it’s a sunny 75°F (24°C). September is the best month for the North Coast.

‘May Gray’ & ‘June Gloom’ Down South

Late spring is the foggy season on the Southern California coast. From Santa Barbara through to Los Angeles and San Diego, expect morning fog – and wear layers. Usually the fog burns off by late morning. To avoid fog altogether, stay inland.

I LIVE HERE

YOSEMITE FILLS THE SOUL

Yosemite-lover, marketing consultant, climber, hiker and skier Theresa Ho @sosimplytheresa

For me as a climber, the heart-stopping moment is when you drive into Yosemite Valley and come around the corner, and there’s El Capitan right in front of you.

It fills the windshield, from the dashboard to out of sight, and you have to lean forward to see all of it. But my deep-down, soul-filling experience of Yosemite-as-home starts long before that, on the winding roads leading into the mountains.

That’s where the emotional sense of belonging, that sense of being in the perfect place for me, really begins.

MOUNTAIN DRIVING

In California, snowfall is generally linked to elevation (the higher the mountain, the greater the snowfall), and winter storms can require the use of snow tires or chains for your vehicle. Keep an eye on the Caltrans website (dot.ca.gov) whenever snowy weather is forecasted during your travels.

Weather Watch (San Francisco)

JANUARY

Avg. daytime max: 58°F.

Days of rainfall: 8

FEBRUARY

Avg. daytime max: 61°F.

Days of rainfall: 8

MARCH

Avg. daytime max: 62°F.

Days of rainfall: 8

APRIL

Avg. daytime max: 63°F.

Days of rainfall: 4

MAY

Avg. daytime max: 64°F.

Days of rainfall: 2

JUNE

Avg. daytime max: 67°F.

Days of rainfall: 0

JULY

Avg. daytime max: 67°F.

Days of rainfall: 0

AUGUST

Avg. daytime max: 68°F.

Days of rainfall: 0

SEPTEMBER

Avg. daytime max: 71°F.

Days of rainfall: 0

OCTOBER

Avg. daytime max: 70°F.

Days of rainfall: 2

NOVEMBER

Avg. daytime max: 64°C.

Days of rainfall: 6

DECEMBER

Avg. daytime max: 58°F.

Days of rainfall: 8

Get Prepared for California

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain.

Clothing

Casual layers: California is a laid-back, anything-goes kind of place, especially when it comes to fashion. The prevailing style is more ‘dress down’ than dress up. Even in the business world or for a big night on the town, ‘smart casual’ will usually be enough.

KABARDINS PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Weather-conscious gear: Travelers who have only ever seen California on TV are in for a shock along the coast. Here marine fog reprimands anyone who wears shorts all morning, then rolls back in the afternoon to make you wish that you’d worn some sweat-proof sunscreen, and returns by evening to mock any skimpy date-night outfits. The mountains can be cold and the deserts can be blazing hot. It’s best to layer up with sweaters, wraps or light jackets over your underlayers.

ART14/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Shoes: Walking shoes are essential for both cities and trails alike. Even on a night out, stilettos or natty oxfords are not necessary – just dress however you like.

BLACKSTAR-FOTOGRAFIE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sun protection: Sunscreen is essential wherever you go in this state of Endless Summer. It’s always a good idea to have a wide-brimmed hat for sun protection, and Californians are famous for wearing sunglasses even when it isn’t particularly sunny.

EXOPIXEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WATCH

Vertigo

(Alfred Hitchcock; 1958) This famous noir thriller is set in San Francisco, starring James Stewart and Kim Novak.

LA Confidential

(Curtis Hanson; 1997) A neo-noir tale of corruption and murder in 1950s LA replete with beaucoup glam.

Boyz n the Hood

(John Singleton; 1991) This groundbreaking coming-of-age story is set in Los Angeles’ South Central neighborhood.

Words

Freeway: Elsewhere in the US, they’re called highways, expressways or interstates. According to the US Department of Transportation, they were named ‘for the uninterrupted passage of vast numbers of vehicles.’ That was in the 1930s and seems quaint now, as anyone who’s been in California traffic can attest.

Bay Area: San Francisco Bay and surrounding counties.

Southern California (aka SoCal): Los Angeles and surrounding counties to the Mexican border.

HOV: High occupancy vehicle, as in ‘HOV Lane’ on the freeway. Don’t drive in one if you have fewer than the minimum number of passengers.

CHP: California Highway Patrol, or the state traffic cops.

DUI: Driving under the influence (of alcohol, cannabis etc). Sometimes called DWI (driving while intoxicated). Either way, a big no-no.

SigAlert: SoCal speak for massive traffic jam.

Looky-loos: Drivers who slow down to look at an accident.

Santa Monica Pier

DEBBIE ANN POWELL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LISTEN

American Beauty

(Grateful Dead; 1970) A peak for these San Francisco rockers, because no song says road trip like ‘Truckin’.

Straight Outta Compton

(NWA; 1988) This pioneering gangsta rap album remains as relevant as when it was released.

Teenage Dream

(Katy Perry; 2010) An album full of feel-good hits from ‘California Gurls’ to ‘Firework’ and the titlular song.

READ

Where I Was From

(Joan Didion; 2003) California-born essayist shatters the state’s palm-fringed fantasies, unsparingly examining everything from individualism to water use.

If They Come in the Morning

(Angela Davis; 1971) Chronicles of the Black Power movement collected by one of its leading figures.

The Big Sleep

(Raymond Chandler; 1939) This iconic Phillip Marlow mystery based in Los Angeles sets the bar for gumshoes.

ROAD TRIPS

Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve

GLOWING EARTH PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Contents

California’s Greatest Hits & Las Vegas

Mission Trail

Pacific Coast Highways

Northern California

Central California

Southern California

01

California’s Greatest Hits & Las Vegas

BEST FOR FOOD & DRINK

Visit Napa Valley wineries and star chefs’ tables.

This epic road trip hits the all-time greats of the Golden State plus a slew of fascinating spots along the way, ultimately stopping in glitzy Las Vegas, Nevada.

Link Your Trip

03 Pacific Coast Highways

California’s most famous driving route hugs the Pacific Ocean from Mexico to Oregon. Join up in San Francisco, Big Sur or LA.

31 Life in Death Valley

California’s biggest, wildest and most road-trip-worthy national park is just over two hours’ drive west of Las Vegas, Nevada.

01 SAN FRANCISCO

In two action-packed days, explore Golden Gate Park (sfrecpark.org/770/Golden-Gate-Park), spy on sea lions lolling around Pier 39 (pier39.com) at Fisherman’s Wharf and saunter through the streets of busy Chinatown to the Italian sidewalk cafes of North Beach. Feast on an overstuffed burrito in the Mission District after wandering its mural-splashed alleys.

Queue up at Powell and Market Sts for a ride on a bell-clanging cable car and then cruise to the infamous prison island of Alcatraz (alcatrazcruises.com) out in the bay. Book Alcatraz tickets online at least two weeks ahead. At the foot of Market St, indulge your inner epicurean at the food stalls of the Ferry Building (ferrybuildingmarketplace.com), and stop by its farmers market (cuesa.org) year-round to wallow in the bounty of California-grown produce and gourmet prepared foods.

Inside the historic Castro Theatre (castrotheatre.com), the crowd goes wild when the great organ rises from the floor and pumps out show tunes until the movie starts, and the sumptuous chandelier complements a repertory of silver-screen classics.

  THE DRIVE

Without traffic jams, it’s an hour’s drive from San Francisco to Napa, the nexus of Wine Country. Take Hwy 101 north over the soaring Golden Gate Bridge, stopping at the Vista Point on the far side of the bridge, and into Marin County. Zigzag northeast on Hwys 37, 121, 12 and 29 to reach downtown Napa.

Golden Gate Park, San Francisco

NIGEL FRENCH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

02 NAPA VALLEY

The Napa Valley is famous for regal cabernet sauvignon, château-like wineries and fabulous food. The city of Napa anchors the valley, but the real work happens up-valley. Scenic towns along Hwy 29 include St Helena, Yountville and Calistoga – the last more famous for its natural hot-springs water than its wine.

Start by the river in downtown Napa, where the Oxbow Public Market (xbowpublicmarket.com) showcases all things culinary – produce stalls, kitchen shops, and everywhere something to taste – with emphasis on seasonal eating and sustainability. Come hungry.

A dozen miles north of Napa, tour buses flock to the corporate-owned Robert Mondavi Winery (robertmondaviwinery.com); if you know nothing about wine and can cope with crowds, the worthwhile tours provide excellent insight into winemaking.

Driving back down-valley, follow the bucolic Silverado Trail, which passes several other landmark, over-the-top wineries, including Robert Sinskey Vineyards (robertsinskey.com), where a dramatic hilltop tasting room resembles a small cathedral.

  THE DRIVE

From Napa, it’s a four-hour drive of nearly 200 miles to the dramatic Big Sur coast. Head south over the Carquinez Bridge to Berkeley, then sail over the Bay Bridge into San Francisco, taking Hwy 101 south toward Silicon Valley.

Detour on Hwy 17 over the mountains to Santa Cruz, then join Hwy 1 south past Monterey and Carmel-by-the-Sea.

Hiking Half Dome

Just hold on, don’t forget to breathe and – whatever you do – don’t look down. A pinnacle so popular that hikers need a permit to scale it, Half Dome lives on as Yosemite Valley’s must-reach-it obsession for millions.

Reaching the top can only be done when the fixed cables are up, usually from late May until mid-October. Permits go on sale by lottery in March, with a limited number via another daily lottery two days in advance during hiking season.

See nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/hdpermits.htm for details.

03 BIG SUR

Highway 1 along Big Sur coast may be the