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    Fodor's Montreal & Quebec City
    Fodor's Montreal & Quebec City
    Fodor's Montreal & Quebec City
    Ebook600 pages5 hours

    Fodor's Montreal & Quebec City

    By Fodor’s Travel Guides

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    About this ebook

    TOURISM TRENDS:

    • Montreal is one of the top 5 Canadian destinations for U.S. travelers.
    • Montreal made the top 10 cultural capitals that Expedia expects to trend in 2023. (Source)
    • "The demand for the region (Quebec) is unheard of. It's very, very strong. The rates are there, people are willing to pay. It's very encouraging," says Mercure. In his opinion, the industry could easily get to 95 percent of the volume." (Source)

    FULLY REDESIGNED!

    • New front cover has eye-catching full-bleed images with key selling points on the front
    • New back cover is fully-redesigned
    • “Best of” Lists will visually engage the reader and provide an overview of the entire destination (best things to eat, see, do, drink, as well as what to read and watch before going)
    • Visually focused with more color and images including more full and half-page images throughout and color-coded category icons
    • Other useful features including Great Itineraries, Walking Tours, Best Festivals, Quebec City History
    • “Travel Smart” (logistical planning tips section) now at the front of the book and redesigned to be more infographic in feel
    • Stronger Voice and Opinions give all Fodor's guides more personality. Books are more friendly and conversational in tone, going beyond informational to being inspirational

    CURATED AND RELEVANT:

    • Focused coverage on only the best places so travelers can make the most out of their limited time.
    • Carefully vetted recommendations for all types of establishments and price points.

    CONCISE:

    • Shortened reviews presented with brevity and focus.

    Please see additional key selling points in the book main description

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherFodor's Travel
    Release dateJul 16, 2024
    ISBN9781640977211
    Fodor's Montreal & Quebec City
    Author

    Fodor’s Travel Guides

    For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

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      Fodor's Montreal & Quebec City - Fodor’s Travel Guides

      Chapter 1. Experience Montréal and Québec City

      22 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

      One of the city’s most popular parks, Montréal’s Old Port is the place to gallery-hop, cycle, stroll, take a jet boat ride on the Lachine Rapids, or just explore the waterfront at your leisure. (Ch. 3)

      1 Exploring the Old Port

      Montréal & Québec City offer terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

      2 Strolling Rue du Petit-Champlain

      Take the funicular down to explore lamp-lit Rue du Petit-Champlain, North America’s oldest commercial street. (Ch. 5)

      3 Carnaval de Québec

      One of the world’s biggest winter celebrations, this midwinter fête encompasses scores of activities that are bound to make you forget it’s well below zero. (Ch. 5)

      4 Saluting the Citadel

      Ride an aerial cable car to admire the chute from above, or—if you’re really daring—cross the suspension bridge above the breathtaking falls. (Ch. 6)

      5 Crossing Montmorency Falls

      La Citadelle is home to Canada’s Royal 22nd Regiment, who still turn out in bearskin caps and scarlet tunics for the daily changing of the guard. (Ch. 5)

      6 Visiting Île d’Orléans

      This so-called Garden of Québec is a bucolic wonderland of centuries-old summer cottages, ancient churches, wineries, cider mills, culinary artisans, and produce stands. (Ch. 6)

      7 Cheering for the Habs

      Nothing is more Canadian than hockey, and the fans’ energy and enthusiasm at a Canadiens (aka Habs) game provide sport for even the most reluctant sports fan. (Ch. 3)

      8 Bowing to the Basilique Notre Dame de Montréal

      Everything about this magnificent Roman Catholic basilica is grand, from the 228-foot twin steeples to the 7,000-pipe organ to the 24-carat gold stars on the ceiling. (Ch. 3)

      9 Posing on Dufferin Terrace

      The long boardwalk in front of the Château Frontenac is one of Québec City’s most romantic—and photogenic—spots. (Ch. 5)

      10 Partying in the Village

      Once a tiny nook carved out of Downtown, the Village can be great for shopping, strolling, people-watching, and partying. (Ch. 3)

      11 Ferrying to Lévis

      Treat yourself to lovely views by taking the quick (and inexpensive) 20-minute trip aboard the commuter ferry to the town of Lévis. (Ch. 5)

      12 Enjoying Parc du Mont Royal

      Snowshoe, ski, or hike a network of trails leading through the dense wooded areas of this hill overlooking the city. (Ch. 3)

      13 Eating Poutine

      Québec City has some of the best spots to sample poutine (fries drenched in gravy and cheese curds) including the Chez Ashton chain. (Ch. 5)

      14 Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal

      One of Canada’s oldest museums has an exceptional collection of art including works by Rembrandt, Renoir, and Picasso. (Ch. 3)

      15 Shopping at Marché du Vieux Port

      At this foodie haven, you’ll be tempted by maple syrup products, chocolates, iced cider, and other local specialties. (Ch. 5)

      16 Reflecting at the Plains of Abraham

      Filled with runners, picnickers, and cyclists, it’s hard to imagine the fierce battles between empires that unfolded on this very spot in the 18th century. (Ch. 5)

      17 Taking in Old Montréal

      Many shops and restaurants are touristy in this part of town, so your time is best spent winding through the old lamp-lit streets and marveling at the architecture. (Ch. 3)

      18 Eating Your Way up Jean Talon Market

      As well as flowers, fruits, and vegetables, this European-style open market has food stands with crepes, samosas, Turkish pastries, and more. (Ch. 3)

      19 Skiing Mont-Tremblant

      With 662 acres of skiable terrain, this peak of the Laurentian Mountains, northwest of Montréal, is one of North America’s top ski resorts. (Ch. 4)

      20 Grooving at Jazz Fest

      Montréal’s annual International Jazz Festival is the largest in the world, attracting millions of fans for more than 400 (mostly free!) concerts every summer. (Ch. 3)

      21 Marveling at the Oratoire Saint-Joseph

      The oratory, gardens, and copper dome of the world’s largest and most popular shrine to St. Joseph are a sight to behold. (Ch. 3)

      22 Wandering Old Québec

      A UNESCO World Heritage site, the enchanting Old City (Vieux-Québec) features cobblestoned streets lined with cafés, shops, galleries, and cathedrals. (Ch. 5)

      WHAT’S WHERE

      dingbat Montréal. This is a bustling, multiethnic city of neighborhoods, from the historic Old City to the hip Plateau.

      dingbat The Laurentians. The Laurentians (les Laurentides) encompass thousands of miles of forests, mountains, and lakes, but for many people the draw is Mont-Tremblant and its world-class ski slopes.

      dingbat The Eastern Townships. Called Les Cantons de l’Est in French, the Eastern Townships region has quaint architecture and rolling hills that recall New England. Atop imposing Mont-Mégantic, you’re 3,150 feet closer to the heavens. Far from city lights, the sky here is ideal for stargazing. Indeed, the park received its certification as an International Dark Sky Reserve in 2007.

      dingbat The Outaouais. Bordering the Ottawa River, the Outaouais is known for its many lakes, majestic views, hiking trails, and interesting wildlife, as well as the imposing Château Montebello, often called the world’s largest log cabin.

      dingbat Québec City. The capital of the province of Québec is the most French-influenced city in North America. Québec’s Old City (Vieux-Québec) is split into two tiers, separated by steep rock against which are more than 25 escaliers (staircases) and a funicular. The surrounding cluster of small, low-rise neighborhoods all have their own charm and flavor.

      dingbat Île d’Orléans. Famed for its wine and cider as well as its strawberry crop and other local produce, the Île d’Orléans is often called the Garden of Québec. Made up of six small villages, this charming island has several bed-and-breakfasts and fabulous farm stands.

      dingbat Côte-de-Beaupré. The coast hugged by the St. Lawrence River embraces the thundering Montmorency Falls and the impressive Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré shrine. It leads to Mont-Ste-Anne, famous for its skiing, golfing, and mountain biking.

      dingbat Charlevoix. The big bang of an ancient meteor created picturesque valleys, cliffs, and mountains that brush the St. Lawrence River. This Québec region has inspired painters, poets, and musicians for generations.

      What to Eat and Drink

      POUTINE

      Canada’s national dish, poutine (from Québécois slang meaning mess), is a mushy mess of fries covered in melty cheese curds and dark gravy. The take-out mishmash was traditionally a bumpkin’s meal until it was named Canada’s national dish in 2010.

      JULIETTE & CHOCOLAT

      Chocolate is celebrated in all its chocolatey forms at this beloved dessert shop in Montréal, where highlights include crepes soufflés, candy, milkshakes, vegan brownies, and rich hot chocolate, all made from cocoa beans sourced in Peru, Madagascar, and Uganda.

      TOURTIÈRE

      This rib-sticking meat pie is a tabletop staple during the cold Québec winters. Named after the old-fashioned cooking vessel that was once used to bake it, tourtière is a dish recognized across the province and is often featured on Christmas Eve menus.

      MONTRÉAL BAGELS

      It’s the ultimate rivalry among Montrealers: who makes the better bagel, St-Viateur or Fairmont? Both shops famously sell Montréal bagels, made by hand with sourdough and malt, boiled in honey-sweetened water, wood-fired, and sprinkled with sesame seeds. The result is a firmer, denser bagel than what European Jewish immigrants also brought over to the Big Apple.

      SMOKED-MEAT SANDWICH

      Smoked-meat sandwiches, like bagels, are another much-loved and much-argued-over classic Montréal eat. Sliced by hand and served over deli countertops, these juicy beef brisket sandwiches feature cured, spiced meat that is hot-smoked, stacked onto rye bread, and completed with a squirt of yellow mustard. Montréal smoked meat is pretty similar to New York pastrami, except for extra seasoning and less sweetness.

      BOULANGERIE BREAD

      The boulangerie (bakery) is an integral part of Québec’s everyday meals and communities. In Québec City, there’s no better morning start than Le Paingrüel, a long-standing artisanal bakery with daily specials including bread with dark chocolate and dried pear and cranberry-chocolate buns. In Montréal, the Plateau Mont-Royal is known for its croissant shops, and the La Petite-Patrie neighborhood has several, like the popular Le Pain dans les Voiles.

      ÎLE D’ORLÉANS

      An island just a 15-minute drive from Downtown Québec City, Île d’Orléans is home to the Chocolaterie de l’Île d’Orléans, known for its deliriously delicious chocolate-dipped soft ice cream cones that have a cult following throughout the province.

      ICE CIDER

      A Québec specialty, ice cider is a sweet, delicate liqueur that is produced through the alcoholic fermentation of juice from slowly pressed frozen apples. It’s a must-try in Québec, if only because it is so complex and complicated to produce.

      MAPLE SYRUP

      Québec produces more than three-quarters of the world’s maple syrup, and you’ll find it right next to the salt and pepper on many table setups for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Its origins date to the 1800s when the French learned how to tap trees from Indigenous peoples.

      ARTISANAL CHEESES

      Québec is home to more than half of Canada’s artisanal cheese makers. As such, there’s a wealth of craft fromage to feast on here. Stock up at farmers’ markets. The province boasts at least 700 varieties of cheese made of cow, goat, and sheep milk, although there are also a couple of funky varieties made from water buffalo milk. Rarer varieties can be found at farmers’ markets, such as the Atwater and Jean-Talon Markets in Montréal and Marché du Vieux-Port in Québec City.

      CRAFT BREWS

      Québéc takes microbrewing very seriously, specializing in strong beers that’ll knock you over faster than you can say Santé! Montréal’s first craft brewpub, Le Cheval Blanc, opened in the mid-’80s, well before the global craft beer revolution, and these days there are several more to choose.

      Cool Things to Do in Winter in Montréal and Québec City

      CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING, SNOWSHOEING, AND SLEDDING ON MONT-ROYAL

      Take a guided nighttime snowshoe climb through the snow-covered forest of Mount Royal. By day, make for the summit to Beaver Lake, where a skating rink, tubing lanes, and ski trails facilitate the snow sport of your choice.

      DANCING UP A STORM AT IGLOOFEST

      Why should below-freezing temperatures stop anyone from having an outdoor dance party? Just as the glitter from New Year’s parties and resolutions begins to dull, Igloofest takes over the Old Port for nine days and heats things up with electronic sets spun by the hottest local and international DJs. Thousands bundle up and head to Igloo Village to shake off their hats and scarves on the dance floor under the snow and stars.

      COZYING UP AT CRAFT BEER BARS

      Montrealers have long been spoiled for choice when it comes to finding warm watering holes with quality brews on tap. Like a hot chocolate but better, Dieu du Ciel!’s dark Aphrodisiaque stout is brewed with cocoa and vanilla beans, creating bourbon and toasty malt notes that will chase the winter blues away. Vices & Versa, L’Amère à Boire, Broue Pub Brouhaha, and MaBrasserie lead a long list of local craft breweries to hunker down in when the forecast reads hyperborean degrees.

      PACKING ON THE POUNDS WITH POUTINE

      When it comes to winter comfort foods, poutine reigns supreme in La Belle Province. Served with crispy fries, homemade gravy, and requisite squeaky cheese, the carb-heavy medley never fails to grease the arteries and warm the belly. Numerous establishments are dedicated to the dish—including La Banquise, Chez Claudette, Poutineville, and Paul Patates—but it can also be found on the menu at nearly every casse-croûte (greasy spoon). For a more gourmet—and gourmand—take, there’s Au Pied de Cochon’s foie gras poutine and Garde Manger’s lobster-heaped frites. Also, look out for La Poutine Week, an annual fry fest that takes place every February in restaurants across the city.

      LIGHTING UP WITH MONTRÉAL EN LUMIÈRE AND LUMINOTHÉRAPIE

      A little light therapy goes a long way to combat the season’s shorter days and longer nights. Every February, the Quartier des Spectacles is illuminated with Montréal en Lumière’s light projects and installations, such as a bright, revolving Ferris wheel and a flood-lit toboggan run, and the bundled-up masses, crowding in for the winter fair. Beginning earlier and lasting longer, Luminothérapie illuminates the square with light art exhibitions from late November to early March.

      SKATING IN WINTER WONDERLANDS

      Whether for an improvised game of shinny (pickup hockey) or attempts at the quad, there’s ample ice space in the city for every skill level. Outdoor ice rinks can be found in the parks of every neighborhood, like the Plateau’s Parc La Fontaine pond or the Old Port’s Natrel Rink. If you don’t have your own blades to cut the ice with, many places have them for rent. For those who prefer to skate indoors, Atrium Le 1000 brings the best of both worlds together with its large inside rink and centerpiece skylight.

      GOING FOR A DIP IN THERMAL SPAS

      A warm bath is one of the best antidotes for the chill that settles into your bones midwinter, and a little massage therapy doesn’t hurt either. Visit Bota Bota, a riverside boat spa located in the Old Port, for a steamy thermotherapy session to relieve aches and pains and release toxins in the body.

      PARTYING WITH THE FAMILY AT FÊTE DES NEIGES

      Pack the kids into snowsuits and hop across the river to Parc Jean-Drapeau for Fête des Neiges’ outdoor snow festival. Among the many attractions are a 50-foot-high zip line, ice sculptures, a scenic skating path, giant foosball, and a 10-lane tube slide that includes two super-slides and one fitted for a four-seat tube. Plus, a packed program of games and performances for children is sure to keep les enfants terribles off thin ice and out of snowball fights during the cold weather season.

      SWEETENING UP AT SUGAR SHACKS—CABANES À SUCRE

      Before the season melts into spring, head to the sugar bush to tap Canadian maples for their syrupy gold. To enjoy the late winter harvest, Montrealers congregate in a cabane à sucre (sugar shack), a log cabin with a long communal table made for plate passing and syrup swapping. More than just a breakfast garnish, maple is drizzled into courses of the meal, which typically begins with yellow pea soup and is followed with savory traditional dishes such as tourtière meat pies, baked beans, and plenty of pork. The featured ingredient is the star of dessert, too, used generously in super-sweet treats like maple pies, taffy, and donuts.

      Best Spa Experiences in Montréal and Québec City

      SPA WILLIAM GRAY

      This luxury spa (in an old graystone colonial home in Old Montréal) is a local favorite. Highlights include warm quartz massages, a Spa Wave sound therapy system, an herbal sauna, and a Himalayan salt room with walls of Himalayan salt bricks.

      SIBÉRIA SPA

      Located in a peaceful woodsy setting a 20-minute drive from Vieux-Québec, Sibéria Spa offers the opportunity to escape the daily urban grind. Guests can enjoy the hot and cold baths (or for the more daring, there’s the invigorating river), choose between 12 massages, and reenergize with a snack or light meal at the spa’s adorable café housed in an A-frame chapel.

      BOTA BOTA, SPA SUR L’EAU

      A unique concept in this northern city, this spa is set on a repurposed ferryboat in Old Montréal. The floating spa features a garden, pool, terraces, and hammocks. Other facilities include a sauna, steam room, a water circuit (cold bath, exterior cold shower, lukewarm bath, jet bath). Silence and/or whispering is required everywhere on the boat.

      SPA BOLTON

      This spa in the Eastern Townships, set amid natural waterfalls from the Missisquoi River, allows for polar plunging in winter. Guests lie on beds in yurts for massages, while in summer only tent flaps stand between you and the sound of the river. A highlight is the Finnish wood-burning smoke sauna, or Savusauna, the only one of its kind in Canada.

      BALNÉA SPA ET RÉSERVE THERMALE

      This contemporary spa in the Bromont ski resort is surrounded by trees and overlooks a lake. In addition to treatments and wraps, guests can float outdoors on air beds among the lily pads, soak up the sun on tiers of sun decks, bliss out in one of the hot or cold pools, or practice yoga by the lake.

      STRØM SPA—NUNS’ ISLAND

      This peaceful respite located minutes from Downtown Montréal boasts outdoor whirlpools, hot and cold baths, Finnish saunas, a eucalyptus-scented steam bath, thermal and Nordic waterfalls.

      STRØM SPA—VIEUX-QUÉBEC

      Overlooking the St. Lawrence River, this spa in Old Québec offers a thermal experience that takes you through outdoor whirlpools, thermal and Nordic baths, Finnish saunas, a eucalyptus steam bath, and indoor and outdoor relaxation areas with fireplaces.

      SCANDINAVE SPA

      Located in Old Montréal, Scandinave Spa offers hot and cold baths, a waterfall, and a range of therapeutic massages, including Thai, Swedish, and a fusion of the Hawaiian lomilomi and the reharmonizing Japanese shiatsu.

      THE NORDIK SPA-NATURE

      The Nordik Spa-Nature in the Outaouais region is the largest spa in North America and its vast catalog of facilities impress. It’s got 10 outdoor baths, nine saunas, an infinity pool, a saltwater flotation pool, a yoga and meditation room. It also boasts four restaurants, including a biergarten with an outdoor terrace and panoramic view.

      SPA NORDIQUE LE GERMAIN

      Part of Le Germain Hotel in Charlevoix’s Baie St-Paul, Spa Nordique Le Germain provides the usual menu of thermal, hydrotherapy, and beauty treatments, but you’ll also find a Nordic shower and a Snow Fountain producing finely crushed ice that you rub all over your body.

      Best Side Trips from Montréal and Québec City

      FARM-HOPPING ON ÎLE D’ORLÉANS

      Thousands of tourists and Québec City residents visit this cornucopia of an island each year to go farm-hopping. Along the way they savor the local bounty—maple syrup, fruit jams, apple cider, wine, black currant liqueur, chocolate, bread, pastries, and more.

      WENDAKE, HURON-WENDAT NATION VILLAGE

      Just half an hour outside Québec City, the village of Wendake, along with its hotel, museum, and traditional longhouse, transport you to the world of the Huron-Wendat Nation before colonization.

      EASTERN TOWNSHIPS VILLAGES

      The area is known for its green mountains and forests, spas, wineries, ski hills, and charming Loyalist-era towns and villages strung like pearls along the Québec-Vermont border.

      ROUTES DES VINS

      The official Route des Vins organization includes 22 wineries, four scenic road trip itineraries, and four cycling routes.

      CHUTE MONTMORENCY

      Plunging 272 feet from the top of a cliff, the spectacular Montmorency Falls stand a full 98 feet higher than Niagara Falls. Daredevils and more active types may prefer to tackle rather than simply admire the falls, and can do so by zip line, via ferrata, or the stairway climbing up the side of the promontory.

      KAMOURASKA AND THE BAS ST-LAURENT

      With its expansive meadows and farmlands sweeping down to the water, brightly painted Victorian homes, and a lively main street, Kamouraska is without a doubt the prettiest village in this seaside region.

      CHARLEVOIX AND THE NORTH SHORE

      The Charlevoix is a year-round destination blessed with painterly landscapes, a lively maritime atmosphere in summer, and a ski resort in winter. It’s also known as a whale-watching destination and is beloved for its epicurean trail, La Route des Saveurs.

      ABBAYE ST-BENOÎT-DU-LAC

      Built by the Benedictines in 1912 on a wooded peninsula overlooking Lac Memphrémagog, the abbey is inhabited by more than 50 monks. Plan a retreat, pick your own apples in season, take a tour of the abbey, shop the delicious homemade cheeses and jellies, and hike the trails.

      THE OUTAOUAIS

      Less than two hours northwest of Montréal lies the Outaouais region, a 33,000-square-mile natural playground numbering 20,000 lakes, 249 miles of hiking trails, and countless rivers. It’s beautiful year-round but easier to explore in summer. Be sure to visit Gatineau Park and the iconic Château Montebello log house hotel.

      ASTROLAB IN PARC DU MONT-MÉGANTIC

      Located in a wild and mountainous area, the Parc du Mont-Mégantic features 31 miles of hiking, snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing trails and the most powerful observatory in Canada. In 2007, the remote park became the world’s first-ever International Dark Sky Reserve.

      Montréal and Québec City Today

      Ask Quebecers what they think of their city, and they’ll rattle off a grocery list of things to improve: potholes, bureaucratic corruption, chronic road work, snow removal, icy sidewalks, parking tickets—the list goes on. Then ask them if they would move anywhere else in the world, and the answer is almost always a resounding no. Any indication that the snow and cold weather are gone, and Quebecers will head to an outdoor terrace (or terrasse, pronounced terr-ass by anglophone Quebecers) or patio.

      THERE’S MUSIC IN THE AIR

      As far back as native son Leonard Cohen singing about Suzanne in the 1960s, Montréal has been known for its indie music scene. More recently, with Montréal band Arcade Fire’s Grammy win in 2010, international record labels began paying more attention to the city. Artists like Milk and Bone, Half Moon Run, Grimes, Kaytranada, Shay Lia, NOBRO, and Béatrice Martin, better known as Coeur de Pirate, are making Montréal concert halls the place to be.

      QUÉBEC POLITICS

      Politics in Québec can be as entertaining as hockey. In 2018, businessman François Legault’s Coalition Avenir Québec ended nearly 50 years of two-party rule in the province. With the CAQ firmly entrenched in its second term, the controversial language bill, Bill 96, passed into law in May 2022. Meant to slow the perceived decline of the French language across Québec, Bill 96 also states that Québec is a nation, not just a province, and that the official and common language of this nation is French, thus unilaterally modifying the Canadian Constitution.

      THE ARTS MAKE A SPLASH

      The Place des Arts’ new C$34 million social-minded esplanade is now complete. The expansive outdoor space at the heart of the Quartier des Spectacles links all of Place des Arts’ venues. The space hosts Montréal’s biggest festivals, cultural activities, and popular events year-round: the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal, Les Francofolies, Montréal Complètement Cirque (circus festival), Just for Laughs, Montréal en Lumière, the Grand Marché de Noël, and more. Families will appreciate the splash pad in summer and the refrigerated outdoor ice rink in winter.

      In and around Old Montréal, be sure to look out for the Cité Mémoire project, an outdoor video-projection installation that recounts the stories of celebrated and lesser-known Montrealers who have helped shape the city’s history and identity. Films are projected onto building façades, windows, towers, and even trees around Old Montréal.

      Québec City, for its part, has been emerging as a premier stop for summer concerts and festivals. On the Plains of Abraham, outdoor performances accommodate more than 250,000 spectators, and people come from all over to watch under the stars. Past performers including Madonna, Céline Dion, Paul McCartney, Rush, and Lady Gaga have helped put Québec City on the entertainment map.

      SPORTS FANS IN HIGH PLACES

      Montréal’s soccer team, CF Montréal (Club de Foot Montréal, formerly known as the Impact) began competing in Major League Soccer in 2012, which helped solidify its fan base. The 2023 additions of top American and international players Aaron Herrera, George Campbell, and Ilias Iliadis means soccer is continuing to grow as a spectator sport and local attraction.

      Montréal lost its beloved baseball in 2004. Judging by the number of people who still wear Expos baseball caps, one would think the team had never left. Every few years, there is renewed talk of the return of a major league baseball team to Montréal. The last time was 2021. That year, a wealthy local businessman had proposed to buy a team but Mayor Valérie Plante, along with many other Montrealers, agreed that taxpayers should not be paying for a new stadium, nor should one be built on the site that had been proposed for social housing. One idea that was floated around was that the Tampa Bay Rays could split their time between Tampa Bay and Montréal. That possibility remains to be seen.

      Former Québec City mayor Régis Labeaume, still sore that his city lost its hockey team in 1995, decided that one of his priorities was to get an NHL team back in town. He built a C$400 million stadium, which opened in September 2015 and has been prospected as a potential venue for a new NHL team in the city. Up to now there is still no hockey team in Québec’s capital. But one can still hope.

      PEDAL POWER

      Montréal has come a long way since its 2009 introduction of BIXI, a bike-sharing scheme similar to those in New York City, London, Chicago, and many other cities. Using the system, you pay to take a bicycle from a rental station and then leave it at a station near your destination. Every year more bike paths are added to city streets (there are at least 500 km [300 miles] of them now), much to the chagrin of some drivers. In 2019, the scheme enjoyed a record-breaking year, with rides per day increasing from around 31,000 per day in 2018 to more than 36,000 per day in 2019. Since late that year BIXI has been adding more electric bikes to its fleet, and they have proven at least 75% more popular than the regular bicycles. So popular in fact that despite the 700-plus new e-bikes added in summer 2021, 500 in 2022, and 250 in 2023, they are rarely available.

      Montréal and Québec City with Kids

      There’s no shortage of fantastic activities in Montréal and Québec City for kids. Here’s a sampling of what the little ones might enjoy during a visit.

      Montréal with Kids

      Montréal’s popular rent-a-bicycle system, BIXI, is a great way for families to see the city. The expanding network of car-free cycling paths now meanders around Parc du Mont-Royal and through Old Montréal, across Parc Jean-Drapeau on Île Notre-Dame, and along the Lachine Canal.

      Kids who’ve had their fill of churches and museums can expend some pent-up energy at the adjacent Old Port, which has boats to pedal, a clock tower to climb, and a maze. There’s also a waterfront beach, but alas, no swimming is allowed.

      For culturally adventurous youngsters, there are outdoor dance and theater presentations at Parc Lafontaine. Kids can also explore the mysteries of bonsai trees and Chinese gardens at the Jardin Botanique.

      What soccer is to Brazilians and baseball is to Americans, hockey is to Canadians. It’s not a game, it’s a religion! If you can score tickets (best to order in advance), catch a Montréal Canadiens game at Centre Bell. A night with the Habs and their lively fans is a riveting family experience. Alternatively, take a one-hour tour (ages five and up) of Centre Bell, which includes access to the Canadiens dressing room.

      On hot summer days, spend some time at the Quartier des Spectacles, where the large fountains spread along the street will provide some fun and surely cool off your kids. You may even see some adults jumping in, too.

      Québec City with Kids

      Ice-cream stands, street performers, and (in winter) a steep, thrilling toboggan run make Terrasse Dufferin as entertaining for children as for adults, as do the Plains of Abraham’s open spaces.

      Place Royale in the Lower Town brings the 17th and 18th centuries to life for even the youngest children.

      La Citadelle’s Changing of the Guard ceremony, complete with the Royal 22nd Regiment’s mascot, Batisse the Goat, has lots of kid appeal. The hands-on exhibits at the Musée de la Civilisation and the 19th-century jail cells preserved in the Musée de Québec are both must-see attractions.

      Outside Montréal and Québec City with Kids

      In the Laurentians, the gentle rides of the Au Pays des Merveilles (Wonderland) and the Village du Père Noël (Santa’s Village) are perfect for younger children. There are plenty of thrills at the Water Parks at Mont-St-Sauveur in the Laurentians and Bromont in the Eastern Townships.

      Montmorency Falls, on the Côte-de-Beaupré, aren’t as grand as Niagara, but they’re higher, and crossing the suspension bridge above the spectacular chutes of water is a thrill. Farther along the St. Lawrence coast in Tadoussac, you can take a boat ride for an encounter with whales (be careful not to get salt water in your camera or phone).

      Free and Cheap

      There might be no such thing as a free lunch in Montréal or Québec City, but plenty of other things are free, or nearly so.

      ART

      Admission to the permanent collections of Montréal’s Musée des Beaux-Arts (w www.mbam.qc.ca/en) and Québec City’s Musée National des Beaux-Arts (w www.mnbaq.org) is always free. The Musée d’Art Contemporain (w macm.org/en), temporarily housed at Place Ville Marie, is half-price on Wednesday night. Every summer the city of Montréal mounts an outdoor exhibit of art or photographs on the sidewalks of avenue McGill College between rues Ste-Catherine and Sherbrooke.

      CONCERTS

      Montréal’s Christ Church Cathedral (E 635 rue Ste-Catherine Ouest P 514/843–6577), a magnificent neo-Gothic treasure, offers free concerts most Saturday afternoons at 2.

      Les Petits Chanteurs du Mont-Royal, one of the finest boys’ choirs in North America, sings the 11 am mass at the Oratoire St-Joseph (E 3800 chemin Queen-Mary P 514/733–8211) every Sunday from March to December 24. They also perform several free concerts throughout the year.

      Montréal’s annual Festival International de Jazz (late June to early July) and Québec City’s Festival d’Été in July have dozens of free, open-air concerts. These huge happenings bring thousands, and tens of thousands, of revelers to the streets.

      FIREWORKS

      From mid-June through July, the sky comes alive with light and color on most Wednesday and Saturday evenings when fireworks teams from around the world compete in the spectacular L’International des Feux Loto-Québec. You can pay for a seat at La Ronde amusement park, or join thousands of Montrealers in the Old Port, on the Jacques Cartier Bridge, and in Parc Champlain on the South Shore and watch for free.

      POLITICS

      Political junkies can join free guided tours of North America’s only French-speaking legislature, the Assemblée Nationale du Québec (P 418/643–7239). The parliamentary debates take place Tuesday to Thursday from August to November and February to May.

      SCIENCE

      McGill University’s Redpath Museum (E 859 rue Sherbrooke Ouest P 514/398–4086) houses an eclectic collection of dinosaur skeletons, seashells, fossils, minerals, Egyptian mummies, and Stone Age tools in a beautiful 19th-century building. Watch for free lectures.

      SIGHTSEEING

      For one of the best views of Québec City, take the C$3.95 ferry (E 10 rue des Traversiers P 418/643–8420) for a mini cruise across the St. Lawrence River to Lévis and back. Or for C$5 ride the Funiculaire du Vieux-Québec (E 16 rue du Petit-Champlain P 418/692–1132), the sharply vertical railway that creaks along the cliff from Lower Town to Upper Town.

      What to Read and Watch

      THE APPRENTICESHIP OF DUDDY KRAVITZ BY MORDECAI RICHLER

      Duddy Kravitz is a scrappy kid, determined to fight his way out of the Jewish tenements of 1950s Montréal, and this novel is full of colorful characters and classic Montréal neighborhood institutions. The book covers much of the city and expanses of Québec countryside, from the cold-water flats of rue St-Urbain to the lakes of Québec’s Laurentians region. A 1974 movie version stars Richard Dreyfuss. Another of Mordecai Richler’s novels, Barney’s Version, is set in Montréal as well, and was adapted into a movie with Paul Giamatti and Rosamund Pike.

      SWEET AFFLICTION BY ANNA LEVENTHAL

      A series of interweaving, loosely connected stories make up this fresh, funny work of fiction, starring a youthful cast of characters quintessential to Montréal: members of the LGBTQ+ community, writers, artists, bohemians, and anarchists. Here you’ll get slices of Montréal contemporary life, such as in Moving Day: a story dedicated to Montréal’s unique tradition and once-official law in the province, decreeing that any lease in Montréal must end on July 1, Canada Day—thus forcing all of the city’s residents to share the same moving day.

      MÃN BY KIM THÚY

      Like Thúy’s first novel Ru, Mãn is about the Vietnamese immigrant experience in Montréal, this time with an intimate personal story centered largely around cooking and food. Aside from writing fiction, author Kim Thúy has been a lawyer, cookbook author, and restaurant owner, and her restaurant Ru de Nam was a longtime favorite Vietnamese eatery in Montréal. Ru de Nam is no longer open, but this novel is sure to get you excited about the other great choices in Montréal’s Vietnamese dining scene—only some of the great international eating experiences the city has to offer.

      THE ARMAND GAMACHE SERIES BY LOUISE PENNY

      Chief Inspector Armand Gamache is the hero of Louise Penny’s popular mystery crime series about a provincial police chief solving crimes in the fictional Québec village of Three Pines. The author herself is a longtime resident of Québec’s Eastern Townships, just outside Montréal, and bases the series’ setting on her own rustic life. Penny’s books are a bountiful reading choice for the traveler to Québec, as there are 18 total installments in the series, including the most recent, A World of Curiosities. Three Pines, the television series based on Penny’s books, was released by Amazon Prime in December 2022.

      A PEOPLE’S HISTORY OF QUÉBEC BY JACQUES LACOURSIÈRE AND ROBIN PHILPOT

      A concise, well-written account of Québec’s colonial history, this book is great preparation before exploring the region. The book touches on the main lives and historical events in this province’s rich and complicated past, spanning over 450 years of history: from early French explorers arriving to the Gaspé Peninsula in the 16th century (and their dealings with the Iroquois, Cree, and other First Nations), to the forming of a constitution, ongoing fights for sovereignty, and the creation of a modern society.

      COCKROACH BY RAWI HAGE

      Canadian author Rawi Hage’s second novel is about a cynical, downtrodden man living in Montréal, who often feels—both (meta)physically and metaphorically—as if he is a cockroach. Hage, born in Beirut, introduces the reader to a community of Middle Eastern and European immigrants making life in their adopted city. The story is told through the narrator’s dark wit and dry humor, as he struggles with hunger and poverty, desire and pain—and the long, unforgiving Montréal winter.

      JESUS OF MONTRÉAL

      Jesus of Montréal—along with The Fall of the American Empire, The Decline of the American Empire, Barbarian Invasions, and Testament—is just one of several great films from acclaimed Québécois director Denys Arcand, who makes French-language movies that deal in smart social commentary and Montréal-area settings. In this film, a group of actors are hired by the Catholic Church to create a modernized Passion of the Christ play—and end up radicalizing themselves and the audience more than was intended.

      LÉOLO

      Touching and surreal, this Québécois film has plenty of fantasy and enjoyable strangeness (backed up by a Tom Waits soundtrack), telling the story of a boy named Léolo as he comes of age in a very chaotic family. Based in Montréal’s Mile End neighborhood, where Léolo’s family lives, this critically acclaimed film is full of symbolism and spirituality, with some more realistic commentary on mental illness and familial relations.

      THE SCORE

      The plot formula in The Score will seem familiar: a lone wolf, a convincing rogue sidekick, the big, last job before getting out for good—but typical elements are pulled off well here, with plenty of action and entertainment. The target of this classic heist movie (starring Robert De Niro as a Montréal jazz club owner and grand thief) is a $4 million French sceptre stored in

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