percutaneous penetration
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A highly stable oil-in-water nanoemulsion for topical applications, containing mangostins extracted from the pericarp of mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana L.), is a promising strategy to protect mangostins as well as to improve penetration of these important antioxidants through the skins. Nanoemulsions consisted of virgin coconut oil as the oil phase, Tween-80 and Span-80 as surfactants, and xanthan gum as the thickening agent, were prepared using the high-energy and low-energy emulsification methods. The nanoemulsions that were stable up to 28 days had oil droplet diameter of 220 nm to 353 nm and zeta potential of -46.9 mV to -63.7 mV. The accelerated stability test showed that the most stable nanoemulsions were those prepared using the low-energy emulsification method with an estimated shelf life of eleven months, composed of 11% oil phase, 17% surfactant, and 72% aqueous phase. The in vitro percutaneous penetration test for the nanoemulsion with added xanthan gum provided high cumulative skin penetration of mangostins of up to 114 μg/cm2. The results of this study indicate that virgin coconut oil-based nanoemulsions containing mangostins, prepared using the low-energy emulsification method, stabilized by xanthan gum and mixed at 40°C can prospectively be used for topical applications.

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a popular medicinal plant found in many regions of the world. This plant contains small amounts of essential oil whose composition and properties have not been extensively investigated. There are few reports in the literature on the antioxidant and antifungal properties of this essential oil and the possibility of applying it as a potential promoter of the skin penetration of drugs. The essential oil was obtained by distillation using a Clavenger type apparatus. The chemical composition was analyzed by the GC-MS method. The major active compounds of E. angustifolium L. essential oil (EOEa) were terpenes, including α-caryophyllene oxide, eucalyptol, β-linalool, camphor, (S)-carvone, and β-caryophyllene. The analyzed essential oil was also characterized by antioxidant activity amounting to 78% RSA (Radical Scavenging Activity). Antifungal activity against the strains Aspergillus niger, A. ochraceus, A. parasiticum, and Penicillium cyclopium was also determined. The largest inhibition zone was observed for strains from the Aspergillus group. The EOEa enhanced the percutaneous penetration of ibuprofen and lidocaine. After a 24 h test, the content of terpene in the skin and the acceptor fluid was examined. It has been shown that the main compounds contained in the essential oil do not penetrate through the skin, but accumulate in it. Additionally, FTIR-ATR analysis showed a disturbance of the stratum corneum (SC) lipids caused by the essential oil application. Due to its rich composition and high biological activity, EOEa may be a potential candidate to be applied, for example, in the pharmaceutical or cosmetic industries. Moreover, due to the reaction of the essential oil components with SC lipids, the EOEa could be an effective permeation enhancer of topically applied hydrophilic and lipophilic drugs.

Benzophenone-3 (BP-3) is one of the most widely used chemical sunscreens. The results of many in vitro and in vivo tests confirm its high percutaneous penetration and systemic absorption, which question the safety of its wide use. The aim of our research was to assess the effect of this compound on components of the skin extracellular matrix, and to investigate whether rosmarinic acid (RA) could reduce BP-3-induced changes in human skin fibroblasts. BP-3 used at concentrations of 0.1–100 µM caused a number of unfavorable changes in the level of type I collagen, decorin, sulfated glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid, elastin, and expression or activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-2), elastase and hyaluronidase. Moreover, the intracellular retention of collagen was accompanied by changes in the expression of proteins modifying and controlling the synthesis and secretion of this protein. Most importantly, RA at a concentration of 100 µM significantly reduced or completely abolished the adverse effects of BP-3. Based on these findings, it can be concluded that this polyphenol may provide effective protection against BP-3-induced disturbances in skin cells, which may have important clinical implications.

Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is an anti-fungal drug delivered as a microparticle to skin epithelia. It is one of the most widely used ingredients worldwide in medicated shampoo for treating dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis (SD), a disorder with symptoms that include skin flaking, erythema and pruritus. SD is a multi-factorial disease driven by microbiol dysbiosis, primarily involving Malassezia yeast. Anti-fungal activity of ZnPT depends on the cutaneous availability of bioactive monomeric molecular species, occurring upon particle dissolution. The success of ZnPT as a topical therapeutic is underscored by the way it balances treatment efficacy with formulation safety. This review demonstrates how ZnPT achieves this balance, by integrating the current understanding of SD pathogenesis with an up-to-date analysis of ZnPT pharmacology, therapeutics and toxicology. ZnPT has anti-fungal activity with an average in vitro minimum inhibitory concentration of 10–15 ppm against the most abundant scalp skin Malassezia species (Malassezia globosa and Malassezia restrica). Efficacy is dependent on the targeted delivery of ZnPT to the skin sites where these yeasts reside, including the scalp surface and hair follicle infundibulum. Imaging and quantitative analysis tools have been fundamental for critically evaluating the therapeutic performance and safety of topical ZnPT formulations. Toxicologic investigations have focused on understanding the risk of local and systemic adverse effects following exposure from percutaneous penetration. Future research is expected to yield further advances in ZnPT formulations for SD and also include re-purposing towards a range of other dermatologic applications, which is likely to have significant clinical impact.

The mangosteen fruit rind fraction positively contains flavonoids and polyphenols which can act as an antioxidant anti-inflammatory. The use of mangosteen rind fraction in topical preparations requires a good delivery system to support percutaneous penetration, one of which is nanoemulsion. The topical use of nanoemulsion has low viscosity and to increase the penetration of active compound, therefore it needs to be formulated into nanoemulgel preparations. In formulating nanoemulgel preparations, the optimum concentration of gelling agents is needed to obtain a nanoemulgel that meets the physical and chemical characteristics of the gel preparation. Therefore we need an optimization of glyceryl polyacrylate gelling agent in order to obtain a nanoemulgel with good characteristics. Nanoemulgel for mangosteen rind fraction was made in four formulas with gelling agent concentrations of glyceryl polyacrylate as much as 1% (F1), 2% (F2), 3% (F3), and 4% (F4). The nanoemulgel has been evaluated for its physical and chemical characteristics including organoleptic test, homogeneity, adhesion, viscosity, dispersibility, and pH. The active substance release test is carried out on a gel that meets the overall requirements for physical and chemical properties. The analysis showed that the F1 produced a nanoemulgel that met the physical and chemical characteristics of the semisolid preparations. Organoleptic of F1 isi semisolid form with yellow color and typically garcinia fruit rind fraction odor, homogen mixture, 1 ± 0.02s adhesion, 8340 ± 555 viscosity, 6.87 ± 0.39 cm2 spreadability, and 6.39 ± 0.01 pH. The results of the release of active substances showed that the F1 formula was able to release 49.9% of active substances in 10 minutes and within 480 minutes was able to release 96.54% of active substances with a total flux of 5.36 µg / cm2 minutes which fulfill the release requirement.Based on these results, it can be concluded that glyceryl polyacrylate with a concentration of 1% can produce good nanoemulgel.