Female haircuts - Graduated bob

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Introduction
The graduated bob is one of the most sophisticated styles to emerge from the 1990s. The line of the cut and the balance of the shape, suits most hair types and face shapes. Over the years the shape has changed from the solid cut of the 1960s into a technical haircut using a combination of vertical lines and horizontal graduation. Graduation is a term used to define a system of cutting hair which allows the hair shape to move upwards, backwards and/or forwards, depending on the style required.

Today, graduated cuts are a lot more textured and are achieved using thinning scissors and razors. Bolder colours are used to give a choppier and more modern look. And layers are often used to give softness to the shape.
There are two methods of achieving graduation:
o elevation - lifting the hair; and o combing - taking the hair to a shorter point on the haircut.

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 1 of 13 - Before
The ideal face shape for this cut is square or oval. The texture of the hair should be straight or slightly wavy, and hairlines should be flat and even. Our model has a square face shape and even hairlines.

Tip: The graduated bob cut is divided into three areas: back, side and front.

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 2 of 13 - Back Section

To create your first cutting line position the head slightly forward. Separate the shape around the occipital area and take a finger-width section either side of the centre section. To achieve maximum tension in the hair as you cut, keep the hair wet and use the fine teeth of your comb. To get the best results with this haircut you need to be very precise. Make your sections and cutting lines very clean. Remember to position yourself in line with the sections. This will help you achieve even weight distribution throughout the cut.

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 3 of 13 - Determining the length

Pull the hair out from the head, with the back of your hand at the nape and the top of your fingers angled away from the head.

This first section is important because the hairlines at the nape determine the length of the haircut.
The stylist here is using the inside of their fingers. This is the only way you can achieve the correct angle for this cut. Placing the back of your hand against the clients neck may help you to cut with more precision.

Tip: The way you position your fingers determines the length you create. To create length at the top of the section, your fingers should be angled away from the top of the head.

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 4 of 13 - Building up more length

Pivoting from the centre point, work out towards the back of the ears. To build up more length at the back, pull the section at the back of the ears into the previous section. This is a good way to compensate for an irregular hairline.

Tip: Clean sections will help you achieve clean cutting lines.

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 5 of 13 - Finished result of back section

Repeat the same procedure on the other side. To make sure your cut is balanced, follow the guideline from the middle.

The angle of your fingers, tension of the hair and position of your body are all very important at this stage. You are now creating the guide you will use in the next area of the cut. When you have checked the balance of the back section, cross check by working your way through the hair in the opposite direction to the cut. If you cut the hair using vertical sections, cross check horizontally and vice versa.
Tip: Always check the balance of your haircut. The hair is short at the nape and longer at the top of the section.

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 6 of 13 - Occipital Area

Continue working up the back of the head. Take your next section just below the crown and near the top of the ear. Take a finger-width section from either side of the centre, picking up your guideline from the nape. Use the inside of your fingers to get the correct graduation. And angle your fingers away from the head to get length at the top of the section. Work out towards the back of the ear, pulling the sections back at the ear to create more weight and length. Repeat the procedure on the other side, checking the balance as you work.

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 7 of 13 - Creating length towards the front

Work towards the back of the ear. By pulling the hair away from the head shape, you will create more length towards the front of the haircut. The stylist in the picture is angling the section back to give it length. Continue to use the inside of your fingers. This will help you to achieve the angular shape that moves towards the jaw line. And you should use maximum tension to keep the shape precise. This cut uses a diagonal sectioning pattern that pivots into a horizontal line. The top box area from the back of the crown to the recession area at the front is sectioned off at this stage. You will cut this later.

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 8 of 13 - Front Area

You now start to create the length at the front. Our stylist is pulling back the length at the front. Their fingers are held away from the head slightly. This creates elevation and gives a softer effect. To make sure both sides of your haircut are evenly balanced, take your guide line from the back of the ear.

Tip: This section is important. It determines the length at the front.

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 9 of 13 - Back area at crown

The hair from the top box area should be allowed to fall into its natural or designed parting. Here, our stylist is connecting the sections from the back of the crown. At this stage, take your guide from the occipital area. Comb the hair down horizontally onto the guide. Use the guide to work forward through the section, remembering to create length at the front.

To achieve graduation, lift the guide away from the head. Keep the angle to below 90 degrees and make sure you use the same angle on both sides. You should take great care to be precise when making this haircut.

Tip: Remember to keep the hair wet at all times and keep checking the balance of the cut.
Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 10 of 13 - Length at front

You should start to see the length at the front of the hair. Our stylist is using elevation on each section to create a softer edge. See how the hair is pulled down to follow its natural fall. Directing the hair forward or backward would alter the graduation. Using this technique, work up to the natural parting. Then repeat the same procedure on the other side. At this point in the cut, you can use minimum tension to allow for any irregularities in the hair growth patterns.
Tip: Remember: minimum tension will create minimum graduation. Angling your fingers towards the front will create length.
Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 11 of 13 - Crown area

Take a section around the crown, holding the hair straight up from the head. If you can see a corner, round it off. Corners mean weight. Work forward until you run out of hair. If you add layers or texture the cut at this stage, you can achieve a softer look.

Tip: The crown area is dealt with in a different way to the sides, allowing the sides to free-fall to the shape of the crown, but allowing for elevation of graduation at all times.

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 12 of 13 - Finished Wet Result

You can see from the finished, wet result that the shape of this cut is very soft. It was created using a medium round brush. See blow-drying techniques for details. Our stylist has cut this hairstyle with a fringe. Whether you use a fringe should depend on your and your client's personal choice. For more on this, see the page on fringes.

Tip: Talk to your client about their fringe: do they want a fringe? If so, what sort of fringe?

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004

Step 13 of 13 - Final result

We blow-dried the hair with a classic half round brush (see blow drying techniques). To create the soft, free-fall shape, we used styling spray lotion on all of the hair and finished the style with Wella SP finishing spray (see styling products).

Hairdressing-Training.com 2004