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Handicap Clothing Conversion

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Convert a Day Dress into an Open Back Dress

for Handicap and Geriatrics

A standard commercial made assisted dressing dress generally has a double wrapped back . But we are going to
convert a pre -owned off the rack dress, (maybe a patients favorite) so that the wearer can feel comfortable in
their own clothes. This process will work for slips, shirts and sleepwear as well.

Commercial Ours

Materials:
TOOLS
sewing machine
Measuring tape
Pins
Fabric Scissors
Pencil
Newsprint or something large to trace your panel patterns onto.
ruler/yard stick

FABRIC AND NOTIONS


Single fold bias binding to match color of dress (You will have to decide how much after you measure)
Piece of solid cotton fabric, pre-shrunk, that is the same color as the dress and is as long as, and half as wide as
the dress.
3- Buttons that matches the dress that are very flat, very smooth and not too big
3- 3/4 inch length pieces of 1/8 inch elastic

© Charlene Tremain Morrison www.thatssimplyfineandfancy.blogspot.com


Start:
If there is a center back seam , just undo the seam with a stitch ripper carefully. You don't want to loose
any fabric. If there is no center seam, find the exact center back of the dress by measuring from side
seams and mark with pins from top to bottom. Carefully cut along your pin line to the top of the dress,
Including any neck facing. Tack any neck facing down to the cut edge so that it will be sewn into the
dress.

Left Side of Dress: Inside Panel piece


• Design your inside panel piece by measuring a)the back of the dress from the underarm seam up to the
neck line, ¼ of an inch away from the newly cut edge. b) the center back from op to bottom c) the side
seam from under arm to hem edge and d) side seam to center edge at hem.

Calulations example for a straight hanging dress:

Under arm to neck _________ and extend ¼ inch horizontally from neck point
and extend ½ inch horizontally from underarm point

underarm to hem edge: _________ + ½ inch = __________


Center back to center hem _________ + ½ inch = __________
Side seam @ hem to hem at center cut _________ + ¾ inch = __________

© Charlene Tremain Morrison www.thatssimplyfineandfancy.blogspot.com


But most likely you have a shaped dress.....
Open the now cut dress up onto your pattern paper and pin down the back piece of the dress that you want to
copy. Place pins at a) the underarm seam
b) the neck
c) the center cut hem
d) the side seam hem

• Trace with a pencil across the bottom hem line from pin to pin
• Trace from bottom hem line up to top hem line
• Trace from bottom hem line up to under arm seam.

Unpin dress from paper and with a ruler match the neck point with the underarm point. Now you need to add
your seam allowance. On the angled edge from neck to underarm , you will fold over a piece of bias binding the
same length, no extra length is needed

Sewing
• Fold and iron the bias tape piece in half length wise. Sew the Bias tape across the top of the fabric on
the neck to arm edge with a standard sewing method.
• Hem the side seam edge with a double fold hem, folding ¼ inch twice.
• Repeat hem instructions for bottom hem.

© Charlene Tremain Morrison www.thatssimplyfineandfancy.blogspot.com


Pin this new panel to the left side of the dress back at the raw edges with right sides of fabric facing together .
• Sew together from top to bottom. Press seam flat. Finish the seam with a zig zag stitch, serged edge or
pinking sheers. At the neck edge, fold the raw edge of this new seam inwards towards the seam and tack
down. Sew a button onto the seam line at the neck (using the seam as a reinforcement) also place a
button in the same way at the waist level of the dress.

• Sew third button to the under arm inside seam corner.


Right Side of Dress:
• Fold and place ¾ in pieces of 1/8 inch elastic onto the raw center edge of dress and tack into place.
These become the loops for your buttons. (You may have to adjust the length of the loops, as you don't
want the buttons to undo easily.)

• Pin the bias binding down the length of the center back of the dress, right sides together and ¼ inch
selvage on each end of bias tape for folding up. Sew through entire length with a ¼ inch (or less) seam
allowance..

• Open new seam and turn bias tape to the inside of the dress fabric and iron flat. Fold in end salvages and
iron flat. No bias tape should be seen from outside the dress. Pin into place and then sew from top to
bottom.

• Tack down folded bias tape ends with a whip stitch to the dress.

• Place 3rd piece of elastic on the inside under arm side seam and sew into place

© Charlene Tremain Morrison www.thatssimplyfineandfancy.blogspot.com


Skirts or Dresses with a Defined Waist or Commode Accessibility

A) The basic directions are the same, except you will only cut up to the waist line.
B) Sew a reinforcement stitch across the top of where you stopped cutting, or sew in a small square of fabric to
the underside of the dress in the same spot, sewing a box shape and two crossing diagonals.
C)Your panel will measure straight across to the side seam from the center seam/cut instead of measuring the
diagonal from neck to under arm.
D)I would also suggest that the Right center cut edge be covered in double fold bias tape so no fabric will be
lost, that would cause a gap in the the center back. Don't for get to fold the edges of the tape inside so you have
a finished edge. Only one button loop would be needed which is attached at the side seam.

A B C D

© Charlene Tremain Morrison www.thatssimplyfineandfancy.blogspot.com

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