Wroclaw Tourist Guide 2015

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Wrocaw
No. 34, September - December 2015
No. 34 - 5z
inyourpocket.com
Contents
Feature
Nadodrze
Arrival & Transport
City Basics
Leisure
74
Shopping
78
Directory
84
Hotels
86
Basic History
12
14
Culture & Events
16
Street Index
93
Restaurants
22
Listings Index
94
Cafs
42
Features Index
95
City Map
96
City Centre Map
98
Nightlife
44
Sightseeing
52
54
64
67
68
72
The Old Town

Ostrw Tumski
Gnomes
Centennial Hall & Parks
Jewish Wrocaw
Maps & Index
IN PRINT
ONLINE
ON YOUR MOBILE
Seek out this phantom train station North of the River in Nadodrze.
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket
September - December 2015
Foreword
If this is your rst time in Wrocaw, prepare to get starryeyed this dame has it all, from high breeding and good
looks, to cultural clout and an up-for-anything attitude.
Reared at the crossroads of Europe and endowed with
equal parts Austrian Hapsburg charm, Prussian pride,
Polish playfulness and Bohemian rhapsody, its easy to
see why every duke, emperor and chancellor in the land
was ready to wage a war or two just to share a table
with this Silesian lady. Situated sublimely on the Odra
River, Wrocaw easily holds its own with the likes of notdistant neighbours Vienna, Krakw and Prague in terms of
postcard panoramas and cultural oerings. Here youll nd
more bridges than anywhere in Central Europe, a market
square second only to Krakws in size (p.56), an entire
Cathedral Island of awe-inspiring architecture (p.64), and
a one-of-a-kind UNESCO-laureled engineering marvel (p.
68), not to mention a full calendar of festivals and events
(p.16) and over 30,000 university students pushing the
local nightlife (p.44) to unhinged heights. Soon to be
crowned European Capital of Culture 2016, Wrocaw is
ready for its close-up, so put this guide securely in your
pocket, go out and feel the Wroclove.
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 Krakw
wroclaw@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
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General Manager: Magorzata Drzszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
Circulation
15,000 copies published 3 times per year
Editorial
Editor: Thymn Chase; Contributing writer: Janina Krzysiak;
Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan,
Kalina Klimaszewska;
Layout: Tom Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak,
Emily Meadows; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket
unless otherwise stated; Cover Janina Krzysiak
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FEATURE
Copyright Notice & Editors Note

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With such rich cultural oerings elsewhere in the

city, the northern neighborhood of Nadodrze has
gone unnoticed by locals and tourists for many years.
Thats changing fast. This once derelict district is now
buzzing with creative energy and artistic action. Street
art, galleries, boutiques, trendy cafes, cutting edge
restaurants, oh my! Come along as IYP give you a
behind the scenes tour of Nadodrze, starting on page 6.
ABOUT IYP
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Wrocaw In Your Pocket
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Nadodrze
A huge
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ree
rt mural
a welcomes visitors to this niftyy neig
e ghbo
h rhood.
Head uptown, north across the wide murky band of

the Oder River, and you will encounter a city quarter
seemingly in the midst of an identity crisis, where
decorative nineteenth-century architecture shares urban
space with squats and concrete utilitarian buildings.
Crumbling abandoned structures stand side by side with
brand spankin-new playing elds and freshly-painted
facades, while a power plant looms over neatly-trimmed
greenery. Not grimy and grungy enough to satisfy the
odd thrill-seeker, and lacking any true historical landmarks
that could help it contest the Old Town, at rst glance it
might seem that Nadodrze doesnt have all that much
to oer potential tourists - but dig around a bit and youll
nd a lively art scene, young cultural initiatives, unique
workshops, charming cafes, and some of the citys best
eats.
This 19th-century artisan district, severely damaged during
WWII and plagued by poverty and alcoholism in the postwar years, has been the target of a huge revitalisation/
overhaul project during the past decade. From a notoriously
dangerous and grim neighborhood, it has emerged as a
rmly-established artistic district drawing creative minds
from around the city and spawning new places of interest
left and right. With a whole army of enthusiastic, ecient
NGOs dedicated to improving every aspect of Nadodrze
life, from renovating buildings and courtyards to breathing
life into the cultural landscape to tackling socioeconomic
issues, impressively much has been done here - and it
seems the winds of change are blowing ever stronger.
Tourists and Wrocaw-dwellers are nally starting to
appreciate the grand transformation the district has been
undergoing and slowly viewing it as a place to escape the
6
crowded Main Square or to take a break from museumhopping and ticking o all the obligatory Wrocaw sights.
So dont be shy, dip underneath one of the nondescript
archways to any of the spacious courtyards (true feats
of 19th-century urban planning) and see whats been
brewing in this o-the-radar area.
If Nadodrze landmarks are what youre really after, there
are a couple things you want to keep an eye out for: the
stunning-yet-derelict 1868 train station, designed in the
German historicist style by Hermann Grapow; an aboveground air-raid bunker (located where ul. w. Wincentego
merges into ul. Obiska); a monument to Poles exiled
to Siberia, located on Skwer Sybirakw; and the power
plant - you wont need a map to nd that one. For the most
authentic experience, we would recommend visiting some
of the inner-building courtyards, which harbour many of
the districts outstanding street art murals. Indeed, a muralsafari might be a great way to spend a couple hours - at
last count, there were 29 works of art gracing various walls
around the neighbourhood (all are marked on the map in
the back of this guide)
If youre in need of a pleasant stroll or some bench-time,
the river-side Jzef Zwierzyniecki Boulevard is the most
charming spot, but the district also has plenty of parks and
green squares for you to rest in - the most inviting and
expansive of which being the bucolic Plac w. Macieja
(St. Maciejs Square). However if you truly want to get to
the heart of Nadodrze and feel the pulse of this buzzing
bohemian borough, you should seek out the funky cafes,
bistros, galleries and resto-bars (the line is often blurred)
that have been popping up like mushrooms after a storm.
Nadodrze
Below weve highlighted the top 3 must-visit cafes and
restaurants in Nadodrze, but these are just the tip of the
iceberg. This is the perfect district to get lost in on a sunny
afternoon. Who knows what you might discover in the
courtyard round the corner.
CAFS
NEW
BISTRO NARONIK
This laid-back, pleasantly dim corner cafe/bistro attracts
both young parents with month-old babes and the punk
teenager kind. Apart from coee and alcohol, they serve
fancy daily lunches and all-day weekend breakfast in three
styles: Polish, English, and French. Sit at one of the window
tables and watch Nadodrze life go by.QB-1, ul. Rydygiera
30. Open 11:00 - 24:00. T6EGSW
NEW
MACONDO
If youve ever wondered what stepping into a Gabriel

Garca Mrquez novel would feel like, heres your chance to
nd out. Named after the One Hundred Years of Solitude
town, Macondo is a magical realism haven in the heart of
Nadodrze. Part curio/artisan shop, part cozy cafe, this whitewashed, Latin-American-esque nugget of literary-inspired
respite not only serves an enticing array of coees (from
banana to orange to cinnamon), but it also hosts assorted
artsy events including concerts, poetry evenings, and
communal Thursday dinners. The only drawback here is the
shady people who occasionally peer into the back garden.
Instead, you might want to follow the narrow sky-blue steps
to the mezzanine, which features a comfy couch for two.
QA-1, ul. Pomorska 19, tel. (+48) 530 08 83 04. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. 6EGBS
WINCENTEGO 21
This place has a lot going for it - after all, its got all the
decades hip n cool indispensibles like plywood ooring,
whitewashed brick, exposed light bulbs, and wooden
shipping crates acting as furniture. And yet, it seems that
most of the time the locale is deserted, contrary to the
owners vision of the regions rst true club-cafe, where
hours should y by on animated discussion, laptopping, or
book reading. Maybe its the location, or perhaps the reason
is the apparent mismatch between menu and setting. If the
hip n cool blackboard above the counter is to be believed,
the previous extensive choice of lunches has given way

mostly to alcoholic concoctions, with a modest side
selection of tarts, quiches, and sandwiches; meanwhile,
the cafes vibe has remained far more brunchy than
boozy. Heres hoping for a healthy food comeback!QF-2,
ul. w. Wincentego 21, tel. (+48) 884 380 050, www.
wincentego21.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (12-29z). T6
UVGSW
RESTAURANTS
NEW
MANGO MAMA
Dont let the inexpensive decor fool you - Mango Mama
makes some mean Indo-Asian food, and expats from the
Asian continent are a regular sight here during lunchtime.
The reasonably-priced menu oers some of everything, be
it pad thai, phuket spice, samosas, chicken tikka masala,
sushi, or chilli men, and the portion sizes should ll you up
no problem.QG-3, ul. Jednoci Narodowej 77, tel. (+48)
535 65 36 92. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat
13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15-50z). TVG
SW
NEW
OD KOOCHNI
Full to the brim during lunchtime, this cozy and friendly
hole-in-the-wall restaurant oers ever-changing vegetarian and omnivore meals of the day, plus delicious coee
and cake. The open kitchen lets you sneak a peek at food
prep, and the layout (long table + windowside counter
seating) compels to get friendly with fellow diners. If you
get thirsty, grab a glass and ll it up with water from the
conveniently located tap - Od Koochni is taking part in an
initiative to popularise the consumption of Wrocaws safe
and clean municipal water (and its one of the only Polish food establishments where you dont have to pay for
your H2O).QG-3, ul. Olenicka 7A, tel. (+48) 603 88 63
98, www.odkoochni.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 18:00. Closed Sun. (24-29z). TGS
NEW
POWOLI
With a name that means slowly in Polish, this pleasant
breakfast & lunch spot has latched onto the slow lifestyle
trend, oering carefully made, unfussy, healthy food in
an interior decorated in a style wed like to call homey
minimalism. Perhaps the best thing about this lil place
is the community atmosphere you feel right through
the door, with locals hanging around reading, having a
morning cup of tea, and/or discussing medical problems
(the hospital located right across the street is especially
conducive to this). Powoli oers a daily selection of twists
on popular Polish dishes, like pierogi, potato pancakes,
crepes, casserole - all made with unorthodox, nutritious
ingredients - and we gotta say the food is delicious. Plenty
of vegetarian options, too!QB-1, ul. Rydygiera 25/27, tel.
(+48) 732 52 34 07. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. (7-16z). T6UGSW
Arrival & Transport
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Wrocaw is on the up and up as regards transport. Served

by its own airport (with a new 3-storey terminal) only 13km
from the city centre, a gorgeous, recently-modernised train
station and one of the countrys only major highways
connecting it to Berlin to the west and Krakw to the east,
its never been easier to get to or from Wrocaw. Several
trains depart to Germany and Czech Republic each day, the
city is a hub for Polski Bus, and also boasts a comprehensive
and easy to use tram system. In this section youll nd all
youll need to know about getting to and getting around
Wrocaw.
BY TRAIN
Wrocaw is well-designed for train travel, boasting a
gloriously renovated main train station that was at one
time the largest in Europe. Fully modernised in 2012 before
the Euro Cup, today Wrocaws Dworzec Gwny is arguably
the nicest train station in Poland, making a wonderful
impression on all those who arrive via the rails. Located just
south of the market square, from here it is possible to catch
quick domestic connections to Krakw (3.5hrs), Warsaw
(4hrs) and Pozna (2.5hrs), but international destinations
like Berlin and Prague require a changing of trains. Miej
podry!
WROCAW MAIN TRAIN STATION
Recently the beneciary of a massive 293 million PLN
investment, Wrocaws main train station has never
looked better. Completed in 1857, this grandiose NeoGothic building, with its decadent exterior of turrets
and crenellations, has been given a fresh blaze of bright
8
orange-yellow paint - and while not necessarily the colour

we would have chosen, it certainly makes an impression.
Looking like a grandiose palace, a public square dotted
with benches and two playful fountains now anks the
front entrance. Inside, all the elegant architectural details
of the original design have been brought back to life, while
new digital displays give you all the arrival and departure
info you need. Modernised to be completely handicap
accessible, there are even handy conveyors to put your
luggage on if you chose the stairs. Other amenities include
24-hour ticket windows, automated ticket machines inside
and out, an information desk (open 07:00 - 21:00), lockers
and a left luggage service, ATMs (bankomat), currency
exchange oces (kantor), comfortable waiting rooms, and
a plethora of shops, restaurants and cafes. Overall it adds up
to the most convenient, comfortable, and easy to navigate
train station in Poland.
Visit the Polish railways website at rozklad.pkp.pl - which
has limited but eective English language functionality to check the departure times ahead of travelling, and the
large digital display board in the station for the number of
the platform (peron).
As for getting into town, you are basically in it, with most
of the citys hotels and hostels within 15mins walking
distance. You can take a tram two stops north to Galeria
Dominikaska to get a bit closer to the market square (head
west from there), or hop in one of the taxis waiting of front
of both station entrances.QB-6, ul. Pisudskiego 105, tel.
(+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.
rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system
maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00
to 01:00.
Arrival & Transport

BY PLANE
Wrocaw can boast one of Polands most ecient and
modern airports, thanks to the shiny new terminal built
a few hundred metres from the old one and opened in
March 2012. Completed ahead of the Euro 2012 Football
Championships the new terminal can handle over 3 million
passengers annually and is Ryanairs rst hub in Poland.
WROCAW AIRPORT
Wrocaws modern airport does a ne job of ushering
people in and out of the city. Just 13km west of the city
centre you should be through passport control and
baggage claim rather quickly, at which stage you will
probably start thinking about local cash. We recommend
using an ATM (bankomat) as the airports currency
exchange desk oers what we might politely call NOT
the best exchange rates in town. At the airport youll also
nd press stores, tourist and airport information desks, a
restaurant, bars and a coee shop.
The city is nally developing a rail link between the airport
and the Old Town, but at the moment the most sensible
way to get to the centre is via bus 406, which runs roughly
every 20mins from 05:13 - 23:44 between the airport and
the train station (B-6), with central stops also at Pl. Orlt
Lwowskich (E-4) and Renoma (A-4). Night bus 249 departs
the airport for the centre at 00:20. Bus tickets cost 3.00zl
during the day, 3.20z at night, and can be bought from
the press store inside the terminal building or from the
machine next to the bus stop. The journey takes 30-40mins.
Alternatively, you can jump into one of the taxis sitting
outside the terminal and expect a 20min ride to the centre.
Pick-ups are restricted to three vetted rms (but others are
waiting nearby): ZTP Radio Taxi (tel. 71 196 22), Taxi Plus (tel.
601 70 07 53) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196 27). The taris are
similar, but Partner Taxi seem to have the best rates: about
50z weekdays, 70z weekends.
For live arrival and departure information call the number
given or visit the airports excellent website.Qul. Graniczna
190 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 358 14 10, www.airport.
wroclaw.pl.
Arrival & Transport

BY CAR
BY BUS
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,

a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of dierent
trac and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in
the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country.
Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in
front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
A stop on the Eurolines international coach network,

Wrocaw is also a hub for Polski Bus (polskibus.com), with
connections to Krakw, Prague, d and Warsaw.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities

(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside
urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/
hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights
switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle,
rst aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker
and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland
also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2 is the maximum
blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single
beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences
as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when
driving), however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will nd
their licences technically invalid (though this has never
been a problem for anyone we know).
TEMPORARY BUS STATION

Set-up to temporarily serve as Wrocaws bus station until
2017 while the citys original PKS station gets a muchneeded renovation, this make-shift station is performing
its function admirably. Located in the parking lot of an
administration building directly behind the platform access
tunnel of Wrocaws train station, only 100 metres from the
former bus station, the temporary station is well-marked
and travellers should nd navigating the inconvenience
created by the construction both simple and speedy. Most
ticket windows are open 06:00 - 22:00, but an international
ticket desk and Polski Bus window are open 24 hours.
Toilets, a cash machine and a few food vendors are also onhand for your gastro and gastral needs, and more services
can be found across the street in the train station. A 24hour infoline has also been established: call 703 400 444
from domestic numbers and (71) 373 28 46 internationally.
Overall, wed call the temporary arrangements an
improvement over the former station, with the exception
of limited waiting room space when its raining.
One of the only major highways in the country, the A4

connects Wrocaw with Berlin (via Legnica) and Krakw
(via Opole and Katowice). Much of Wrocaws centre is
pedestrianised, and one-way and permit-only streets only
help to make driving in the centre an absolute nightmare.
Poor planning and limited trac patterns mean congestion
is a major, major problem as well; call a cab and it might
take as much as twenty minutes to get to you, though its
only a few blocks away. As such, we suggest you ditch your
vehicle at the rst opportunity, which raises the question
of where to put it.
Most hotels and hostels are within a 15min walk, but to

catch local transport to the centre youll need to walk back
towards the old station and the Dworzec Autobusowy stop
(A-6) from which tram 15 will take you as close to the market
square as possible (get o at Rynek); or walk through the
train station for more options from the Dworzec Gwny
stop (B-5). Alternatively, jump in a Partner Taxi (71 196 27)
to avoid the fuss.QB-6, ul. Joannitw 13.
Parking lots are marked on the map in the back of our

print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent,
though some hotels have limited parking spaces; check
when booking your room. For street parking youll easily
recognise the universal large blue P sign, but be aware
that a blue circle with a red X over it means No Parking
(not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the
automated ticket machines; in the city centre its 3z for the
rst hour, 3.60z for the second hour and 4.30z for the third.
Thereafter youll be forking out 3 zeds an hour.
Internationally trusted service

oering a range of vehicles
from sedan to mini-vans. Avis
also has a desk at the airport but you must arrange in
advance to pick up or drop o a car there.QA-5, ul.
Pisudskiego 49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel. (+48) 601
35 48 11, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun
open on request.
24HR PARKING
Monitored parking for cars and buses near the Racawice
Panorama.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 728 97 90 70.
CENTENNIAL HALL PARKING
Above and below ground guarded parking for passenger
cars and buses in front of Centennial Hall.QI-4, ul.
Wystawowa 1 (entrance from ul. Kopernika), tel. (+48)
71 346 14 22, www.parkinghalastulecia.pl.
10 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
CAR RENTAL
A wide range of cars from

the baby Fiat Panda to the
spacious Mercedes E220 CDi
station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted
steering. Satellite navgation systems are also available.
Special rates oered to those who order through the
Joka website.QB-5, ul. Kociuszki 34 (Paacyk), tel.
(+48) 601 54 53 69, www.joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Sun open on request.
Arrival & Transport

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Wrocaws public transport system is easy to use and
fairly extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines.
Youll rarely need trams or buses to get around the Old
Town, but many aordable hotels and some sights (like
Centennial Hall) are located outside the centre. Major
hubs for trams and buses include the main train station
(B-6), Pl. Dominikaski (C-3), and Pl. Jana Pawa II (E-4).
Buses and trams run roughly from 04:00 to 00:00, with
night buses running less frequently after that.
Tourists should have no trouble using the English option
on the ticket machines now stationed at most transit
stops and on all trams and buses. Note, however, that
while ticket machines at transit stops accept coins and
cash, those on board trams and buses only take plastic. A
single fare ticket is 3z, but be aware that night buses cost
3.20z. ISIC or other non-Polish student IDs are valid for a
signicant student discount, but you must carry your ID.
Most importantly, remember that tickets are not valid
until you stamp them once inside the tram or bus.
Sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel the lines
handing out hefty nes to those without valid tickets;
being a foreigner will not excuse you, it will only mean
youll have to pay in cash on the spot.
Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the
money. W dni robocze means Monday through Friday
and W dni wolne means Saturday and Sunday. For
route planning, check out the super helpful website
www.wroclaw.jakdojade.pl.
TAXIS
LUX TAXI
Comfortable
and
reliable,
Lux Taxi prides itself on its
competitive rates, clean cars
and well-mannered drivers, all of
whom speak English or German,
and some are even licenced tour
guides. 6-8 person taxi vans are available, and you can
conveniently pay with by credit card.Qtel. (+48) 71
196 23, www.luxradiotaxi.pl.
PARTNER TAXI
Partners high-quality service
make them your best bet for
a cab in Wrocaw. Operating
clean cars of the same
distinctive make, from Partner
you can request an English-speaking driver or childs
car seat, and when youve blown all your cash at the
bar you can pay with a credit card to get home.Qtel.
(+48) 71 196 27, www.partner-taxi.pl.
SPECIAL WEEKEND
OFFER FOR YOUR
CAR RENTAL.
ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC,
GET ON THE OPEN ROAD
AND EXPLORE POLAND
WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL
PRICES FROM 98 PLN*.
* NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED,

ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE.
CONTACT:
tel: +48 22 572 65 65
www.avis.pl
11
City Basics
FACTS & FIGURES
MARKET VALUES
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
the shady Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km),
Lithuania (103km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine
(529km).
Wrocaw has an area of 292.82 square kilometres, and is
the largest city in Lower Silesia (Dolny lsk).
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of August 20,
2015 based on 1 = 4.13z
Longest River
The river Vistula (Wisa) is Polands longest river at
1,047km and ows through Krakw and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska). Wrocaw
sits on the Oder (Odra) River which ows 854km through
western PL and forms 187km of the Polish-German
border before reaching the Baltic at Szczecin, PL.
Highest Point
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra
Mountains along the countrys southern border with
Slovakia.
Population (2014)
Poland - 38,502,396
Warsaw - 1,729,119
Krakw - 759,800
d - 708,554
Wrocaw - 633,105
Pozna - 546,829
Gdask - 461,935
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Wrocaw its 6:00 am in
New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin
and 19:00 in Tokyo.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY

In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should
dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, re department
or ER. From a land-line or public phone dial the following:
Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.
English, German and Russian speakers have separate
lines specically designed for foreigners in distress: +48
608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can
be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are
hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.
The lines are active year round with later hours during the
high-tourist season.
For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency
Rooms can be found in the Directory section of this guide.
If youve woken up to nd youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories
McDonald's Big Mac

Snickers
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
0.5ltr beer (shop)
0.5ltr beer (bar)
Loaf of white bread
20 Marlboros
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
Local transport ticket (1 journey)
9.70 z
1.55 z
29.90 z
2.99 z
8.00 z
3.39 z
15.00 z
5.23 z
3.00 z
2.35
0.38
7.24
0.72
1.94
0.82
3.63
1.27
0.73
of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by

calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the
notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private
clinics can also be found in the Directory. Further help can
be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which
can also be found in the Directory.
LAW & ORDER

In general Wrocaw is safer than most West European cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply
employ common sense. Perhaps the biggest danger in
Wrocaw is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans
who can be heard coming a mile away and easily avoided.
Petty crime does exist, so dont leave your belongings
laying around while in public places (like bars), and be
mindful of pickpockets. Robberies on overnight trains are
also not unheard of, especially on the routes connecting
Wrocaw with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette or
sleeper cabin and keep an eye on your things.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is signicantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If youre determined
to make an idiot of yourself then make sure its not in
front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty
of geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to
complete prats whove thought its perfectly acceptable to
drop their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain have tested the patience of local law enforcement, which
is now decidedly low so dont push your luck. Those who
do may well be treated to a trip to the drunk tank, where
you can expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and
the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants; not to
mention a hefty ne.
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops is by riding public
transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport, Public
Tranport), and (silly as it may seem) jaywalking. If you are
City Basics
from a country which doesnt have or respect jaywalking
laws, youll be surprised to see crowds of people standing
obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change.
The reason for obeying this seemingly silly rule is the fact
that the local city police (Stra Miejska) will quite freely
give you a 50-100z ne for crossing a road at a place
where no crossing is marked or a 100z ne when the
walk light is red. And dont think you are exempt by being
a foreign visitor. You are subject to the law too and your
non-residency means you will be forced to pay the ne
on the spot.
MONEY
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100z notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food
franchise and bar will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for
such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming Kantor. Kantors will often
provide better value than the banks in your home country
or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of
Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sites.
Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list
of kantors in Wrocaw that wont rip you o, see Directory.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist
destination, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making
the country less of a bargain than it was ve years ago.
Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural
venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in
contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically
costs 15-25z, while admission to most museums usually
costs between 5z and 15z.
RELIGION
According to the Ministry of Foreign Aairs, 95% of Poles
are Roman Catholics. And though that gure is based on
baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is
probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one
of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one
thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism,
ghting against pagan invasions and looking to religion
for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland
was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the
Church for solace; during the communist era, underground
resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a
genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way
more profound than cynics in the West can understand.
Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may
nd the Polish enthusiasm for religion a bit unnerving at
rst, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time and the droves that ock to mass.
Tourists should remember while visiting Wrocaws many
churches that these arent museums, but active places of
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
LANGUAGE SMARTS
Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be
terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
nonetheless smooth your time in Wrocaw and may even
win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is ocially recognised as one of
the most dicult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled
Polish Words & Phrases

Yes
No
Hi/Bye (informal)
Hello/Good day (formal)
Good evening (formal)
Good-bye
Good Night
Please
Thank you
Excuse me/Sorry
Tak
Nie
Cze
Dzie dobry
Dobry wieczr
Do widzenia
Dobranoc
Prosz
Dzikuj
Przepraszam
(Tahk)
(Nyeh)
(Cheshch)
(Jen doh-bri)
(Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
(Doh veet-zen-ya)
(Doh-brah-noats)
(Prosheh)
(Jen-koo-yeh)
(Psheh-prasham)
My name is...
Im from England.
Do you speak English?
I dont speak Polish.
I dont understand.
Two beers, please.
Cheers!
Where are the toilets?
You are beautiful.
I love you.
Please take me home.
Call me!
Mam na imi...
Jestem z Anglii
Czy mwisz po angielsku?
Nie mwi po polsku.
Nie rozumiem.
Dwa piwa prosz.
Na zdrowie!
Gdzie s toalety?
Jeste pikna.
Kocham ci.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
Zadzwo do mnie!
(Mam nah ee-myeh)

(Yehstem zanglee)
(Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
(Dvah peevah prosheh.)
(Nah zdrovyeh!)
(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
(Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
(Ko-hahm chuh.)
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
doh-moo.)
(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
Airport
Train station
Bus station
One ticket to
Lotnisko
Dworzec PKP
Dworzec PKS
Jeden bilet do
(Lot-nees-ko)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh)
13
Basic History
Wrocaw has always been the
dominant capital of Silesia, a
region whose story begins
with the establishment
of a stronghold along the
Amber Road and Via Regia
trading routes on what is
today Ostrw Tumski by the
Slavic lanie tribe in the 8th
century. Absorbed into Czech
Bohemia, the expanding
fortress was rst recorded in the 10th century under the
name Vratislavia, thought to be derived from the name
of the Bohemian duke Vratislav I. In 990, however, the Piast
duke Mieszko I conquered the region and by 1000AD the
city had expanded to 1,000 inhabitants, prompting Polish
king Bolesaw I to establish Silesias rst bishopric on the
site of todays Cathedral of St. John the Baptist.
Over the next century, religious and political conict saw
the region pass back forth between Poland and Bohemia
numerous times, before nding some stability under the
Silesian Piast dynasty who ruled the area during the so
called Age of Fragmentation (1138-1320) when Poland was
divided into autonomous principalities. A Mongol raid in
1241 devastated the city, but it was rebuilt under Magdeburg
Law with city planners expanding it to incorporate many of
the outlying settlements, shifting the city centre away from
Ostrw Tumski (which became the citys religious centre) to
the other side of the river, building a moat and defensive
walls around it, and laying out the market square as it
appears to this day. Settlers ocked to the city, and ethnic
Germans soon became the most dominant demographic.
The Piast line petered out in 1335 when Duke Henryk VI died
without an heir and earlier treaties dictated the transfer of the
region to Bohemian rule once again. Under the Luxemburg
dynasty the city generally prospered, but the dominance
of the merchant class, which controlled the Town Council,
lead to strife with the church and lower classes resulting in
outright revolt in 1418 when guildsmen stormed the Town
Hall and beheaded the mayor. Printing with movable type
began in 1475, with many variations of the citys name
appearing, including Wretslav, Wratislav, Prezzla, Presslay and
Bresslau. By 1526 - when Bohemian King Louis Jagiellons
death ended prolonged ghting over Bohemian succession
and transferred the city to the Austrian Habsburg
dynasty - the Reformation had reached the Silesian capital
and Protestantism had become the dominant religion.
During the Thirty Years War (1618-48), the city fought
to maintain its Protestantism, and though occupied,
eluded physical destruction, emerging from the conict as
one of the only Silesian cities to remain Protestant under
Habsburg rule. However plague and war had taken their
toll on the population, cutting it in half. During the Counterreformation, many Catholic orders were encouraged by the
emperor to settle in Silesias capital, including the Jesuits who
founded the Wrocaw Jesuit Academy in 1702, which would
later grow into todays Wrocaw University.
During the War of Austrian Succession, the Kingdom of

Prussia laid claim to much of Silesia and Prussian troops
entered what was then known as Breslau without a
conict in 1741. Though heavily taxed and having lost
the self-rule the city had enjoyed since the Middle Ages,
Protestants could now express their faith freely in the
new kingdom and Prussian authorities allowed for the
establishment of a Jewish community. After the demise of
the Holy Roman Empire, Breslau capitulated to Napoleons
army in 1807; led by King Frederick III of Prussia - who
lived in Breslau - the city was the centre of the liberation
movement against Napoleonic rule. The tearing down of
Breslaus defensive fortications by the French allowed the
city to begin expanding and state reforms helped it prosper
in the 19th century as it grew into a major administrative,
ecclesiastical, military, industrial and science centre. Over
the course of the century the population increased 8-fold
(including the third largest Jewish population in Germany)
and Breslau grew into the second largest city in Prussia;
when the German Empire was consolidated in 1871,
Breslau entered as the third largest city after Berlin and
Hamburg. The construction of the Centennial Hall in 1913
perhaps best represents the ambition and achievement of
this part of the citys history.
By being behind the frontlines of WWI, Breslau avoided
damage and was even able to recover quickly from the
economic impoverishment that came with the end of
the conict. In 1930 it was chosen to host the Deutsche
Kampfspiele - a showcase of German athletics after Germany
was banned from the Olympic Games. The Nazi Party
developed one of its largest support bases in Breslau, which
played a large role in voting them to power in 1933. In 1938
state-organised persecution against the citys minorities,
particularly Poles and Jews, began in earnest and those
who did not escape were killed or sent to the network
of concentration and forced labour camps set up around
Breslau, where many would die later. Safely removed from
the frontlines of WWII, Breslau became a haven for refugees
and its population swelled to close to one million. In August
1944, with the Soviet Army approaching, the city was
declared Festung Breslau - a closed fortress to be held at all
costs. When Nazi Commander Karl Hanke lifted a ban on the
evacuation of civilians in January 1945 it was too late: railway
connections had been destroyed or were overcrowded and
tens of thousands froze to death in minus 20 degree ice
storms. Some 200,000 civilians remained in the city as the
Soviet siege began in February; the Siege of Breslau lasted 82
days before capitulation occurred on May 6th, 1945. It was
one of the last German cities to fall, outlasting Berlin by four
days and the war in Europe ocially ended only two days
after Breslaus defeat. 50% of the Old Town was in ruin and
the western and southern suburbs were 90% obliterated.
Tens of thousands had died defending it.
Under the terms of the Potsdam Conference, Lower Silesia
passed to Poland and its largest city became known as
Wrocaw. Poles began arriving immediately as forced
deportations from Eastern Polish lands annexed by the
Basic History
HISTORICAL TIMELINE
The ood of 1997.
Photo by Piotr Hawaej
Soviet Union and the forced expulsion of Wrocaws

German population took place simultaneously, leading to
a huge inux of Eastern Poles into Wrocaw, particularly
from Lww (now Lviv, Ukraine); Polish cultural
treasures from Lww came with them including the
Fredo monument on the market square, the Racawice
Panorama painting and the collection of the Ossolineum
library (see Sightseeing). A long period of reconstruction
followed, characterised equally by Polonisation and deGermanisation; all German monuments and inscriptions
were removed and Wrocaws non-Jewish cemeteries
were destroyed. At the same time Sovietisation was also
beginning: businesses were nationalised, Polish political
and religious leaders were imprisoned and following
rigged elections the full communist takeover of Poland
was complete by 1948. The Communist authorities took
full credit for restoring Lower Silesia and boasted of their
success rebuilding the city and incorporating it into the
Soviet system; this was typied by Wrocaws hosting
of the propaganda parade known as the Recovered
Territories Exhibition in 1948.
By the late 1950s Wrocaw had returned to its former
population level and established itself as one of Polands
main urban, economic, cultural and academic centres
despite being hamstrung by the political and economic
conditions of the Peoples Republic of Poland. In August
of 1980, Wrocaws workers joined the general strike
called by Gdasks Solidarity Trade Union led by Lech
Wasa. Martial law went into eect from 1981 to 1983,
and Wrocaw remained a centre of anti-Communist
opposition throughout the 80s until Communism
crumbled in 1989 and Wasa became Polands rst
freely elected president since WWII. In 1990, Wrocaws
rst post Communist city council restored the citys
historical coat of arms, symbolising the citys acceptance
of its entire history (even the German bits). In July 1997
the city sustained the worst ooding in post-war Central
Europe when the Odra River overowed its banks leaving
one third of the city under water. Poland joined the
European Union in 2004 and Wrocaw has emerged as
one of the countrys leading cities, attracting signicant
foreign investment. The city was chosen to host matches
during the 2012 European Football Championships, is to
be European Capital of Culture in 2016 and host the
World Games in 2017.
990: Piast Duke Mieszko I seizes Silesia, incorporating

it into Poland
1000: A bishopric is established on Ostrw Tumski
1163: The city becomes capital of the Duchy of Silesia
1241: Mongols devastate the city, the market square is
laid out, Germans become the dominant ethnic
group
1335: Silesia is incorporated into the Kingdom of
Bohemia
1418: The citys guilds revolt, beheading the mayor
and six members of City Council
1453: John of Capistrano leads inquisition against
Jewish population who are executed or forced
to convert to Christianity
1526: The Austrian Habsburg dynasty absorbs
Bohemia, including Silesia
1702: Founding of the Jesuit Academy, todays
Wrocaw University
1741: Breslau becomes part of Prussia
1807: Napoleon captures the city and its medieval
defences are destroyed
1871: Unication of the German Empire; Breslau enters
as its third most prominent city
1913: The Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) is built
1933: The Nazis comes to power in Germany
1938: Kristallnacht - Jewish synagogues torched,
homes looted and burned
1944: Festung Breslau - the city is declared a closed
fortress and prepares for Soviet bombardment
1945: Breslau capitulates on May 6th, WWII ends and
Lower Silesia becomes part of Poland
1947: Communists consolidate power after rigged
elections
1948: Wrocaw hosts the Recovered Territories
Exhibition
1980: The Solidarity trade union initiates strikes across
Poland
1981: The Polish military imposes Martial Law.
Solidarity activists are arrested and interned
1983: Martial Law lifted
1989: First free post-war elections in PL
1997: The Odra and Oawa rivers overow ooding a
third of downtown Wrocaw
1999: Poland joins NATO
2004: Poland joins the EU
2010: President Lech Kaczyski and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,
Russia
2012: Wrocaw hosts the Euro 2012 Football
Championships
2016: Wrocaw will be European Capital of Culture
15
Culture & Events
Mia Ar
A t Gallery
alllll ryy
ART GALLERIES
FOOD ART GALLERY
QA-2, ul. Ksicia Witolda 1, lok.1, tel. (+48) 885 51 54 04,
www.foodartgallery.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
MIA ART GALLERY
Mia is a bright and modern art gallery that recently popped
up on Wrocaws cultural map thanks to the All That Art!
Foundation. The exhibitions here are constantly changing,
with a new one opening every 2-3 weeks. The gallery also
aims to connect art and business by hosting special lectures,
training courses, and presentations.QF-4, ul. w. Mikoaja
61-62, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www.miaartgallery.com.
Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
POLISH POSTER GALLERY
QE-4, ul. w. Mikoaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11,
www.polishposter.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission free. U
CINEMAS
LOWER SILESIAN FILM CENTRE
QA-5, ul. Pisudskiego 64a, tel. (+48) 71 793 79 00,
www.dcf.wroclaw.pl. Box oce open depending on
repertoire. Tickets 10-26z.
MULTIKINO
QA-5, ul. Powstacw lskich 2-4 (Arkady
Wrocawskie), tel. (+48) 71 758 32 24, www.multikino.
pl. Box oce open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after the
last showtime. Tickets 19-35z.
NOWE HORYZONTY
QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786
65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Box oce open from 09:00 to 15
minutes after last show. Tickets 11-28z.
PHILHARMONIC
NATIONAL FORUM OF MUSIC
QA-4, Pl. Wolnoci 1, tel. (+48) 71 342 20 01, www.nfm.
wroclaw.pl. Box oce open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun two
hours before the event. Tickets 10-100z.
BALLET
19.12 SATURDAY
MOSCOW CITY BALLET - SWAN LAKE
This timeless and well-known performance, with its costumes,
music, and fantastic story that has been choreographed so
awlessly, needs no introduction. It is with dexterity and
perfection that the dancers of the Moscow City Ballet bring
Peter Tchaikovskys fantasy Swan Lake back to life once more.
Briey, the story is of girls that have been turned into swans
and live on a lake of tears - a curse that can only be broken by
a princes love. But even if you know the story, the world class
performance by the Moscow City Ballet is enough reason to
attend a second time.QA-4, National Forum of Music, Plac
Wolnoci 1, www.makroconcert.com. Event starts at 19:00.
Tickets 125-165z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik
(Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
Whats going on?

Culture & Events

CONCERTS
27.09 SUNDAY
JAMES ARTHUR
The X Factor winner James Arthur is a spunky, if vacantgazed 27-year-old from Middlesbrough, England. His
debut single Impossible came out in 2012, soon after
the reality show nale, and went on to sell an impressive
2.5 million copies, winning an NRJ Music Award along
the way. Arthurs debut album, named after himself,
came out in November of 2013, drawing critical reviews
but peaking at no. 2 on UK charts.QA-3, Eter Club, ul.
Kazimierza Wielkiego 19. Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 110-150z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00).
10.10 SATURDAY
CONCHA BUIKA
Concha Buika got her start in the music-industry as a
bassist and drummer, but after struggling to get hired as
a female drummer, she turned to singing, and the rest is
history. Born in Spain, a daughter to Equatoguinean African
refugees, Buika draws inuence from a wide range of
genres, including jazz, pop, amenco and more. A unique
element of this award-winning singers concerts is the
use of a cajn, a wooden box drum native of Peru.QA-4,
National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolnoci 1. Concert starts
at 19:00. Tickets 60-120z. Available at www.eventim.pl
and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00).
27.10 TUESDAY
CHRIS BOTTI
American smooth jazz trumpeter and Grammy award
winner Chris Botti evidently likes visiting Poland, having
toured here eight or so times before - welcome back.
Throughout his career hes collaborated with Sting, Aretha
Franklin, Bob Dylan, Diana Krall, Rod Stewart, and countless
others, while Andrea Bocelli, Mark Knoper, and Vince Gill
are all featured on his (newest) 2012 album Impressions.
QI-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1. Concert starts
at 18:00. Tickets 129-249z. Available at www.eventim.
pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00).
13.12 SUNDAY
VIENNA MOZART ORCHESTRA
What would Vienna be without its Mozart Orchestra? Well,
all right - the city would still be great with its abundance
of cultural wealth, but the truth is that the Orchestra has
been a xture of Viennese concert life since its foundation
in 1986, and its dicult to imagine its lack. Now they are
bringing the magic of Mozart to the Wrocaw Congress
Center - just in time for Christmas, too.QI-4, Wrocaw
Congress Center, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.
com. Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 159-239z. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
17
Culture & Events

15.12 TUESDAY
GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA
The Glenn Miller Orchestra was founded in 1938 by
- you guessed it - Glenn Miller, but the man died six
years later when the plane he was flying in was lost
over the English Channel. The band continued under
new leadership; in 1953 Hollywood released The Glenn
Miller Story, greatly boosting their popularity. Sixty
years later, the orchestra is still touring (with all new
members, naturally).QI-4, Wrocaw Congress Center,
ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.com. Event
starts at 19:00. Tickets 125-185z. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
EXHIBITIONS
19.09 FRIDAY 30.09 WEDNESDAY
INTERACTIVE EXHIBITION - EXTERNALIZER PATRYCJA MASTEJ
Envisioning the museum as a snails shell, protective
of the outside world, but also sheltering those inside,
Patrycja Mastej has built an interactive exhibit that will
allow museum visitors to enter a space where they
can break through the shell and express themselves.
Immersed in sound, and seated in chairs that surround
the body, this exhibit is truly an experience, as the
landscape of body parts breaking the shell is revealed.
QWrocaw Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski
2a (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.
muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Tickets 10/5z, family ticket
15z. Thu admission free.
19.06 FRIDAY 27.09 SUNDAY
ZVI HECKER. PAGES OF THE BOOK
Zvi Hecker, a Krakw-born Israeli architect, is known for
his geometric, polyhedron-rich creations including Bat
Yam City Hall, Dubiners residential building and the Spiral
Apartment House in Ramat Gan, the Heinz-Galinski Jewish
school in Berlin, and the Kristallnacht memorial in Berlin.
Pages of the Book is a retrospective exhibition showcasing
the best of his work.QC-3, Architecture Museum, ul.
Bernardyska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc.
pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 10/7z, Wed free.
03.09 THURSDAY 11.10 SUNDAY
IAIN PATTERSON OUT WEST
A lecturer at the School of Drawing and Painting at the
College of Art in Edinburgh, Iain Patterson has been
actively engaged with teaching and working with student
organisations for 30 years. Now retired, he has begun to
focus on his own work and gallery. Visit the exhibit on
opening night to hear Pattersons lecture Architecture
without Architects.QC-3, Architecture Museum, ul.
Bernardyska 5, www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00,
Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Tickets 10/7z, Wed free.
Culture & Events

08.09 TUESDAY 25.09 FRIDAY
MANFRED DRNER
Manfred Drner will visit Poland, for the rst time, in order
to gain a better understanding of the country, while
showing his works at the mia Gallery. By profession, Drner
is a locksmith and dental technician, but his passion is
art. Born in Wiesbaden in 1945, he eventually moved to
Freiburg, Germany. It was there that he ventured into the
creative world, pursuing sculpture. And upon moving to
Berlin in 1991, his passion for painting was discovered and
explored. His paintings have brought him both happiness
and freedom, and he uses them to nd sensitivity, courage,
and the pursuit of harmony.QF-4, Mia Art Gallery, ul.
w. Mikoaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www.
miaartgallery.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission free.
12.11 THURSDAY 31.01 SUNDAY
CHAIRS, STOOLS, ARMCHAIRS.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF SEATS
Enjoy an exhibit revolving around seats, and their place in
the history of furniture. Learning about the evolution of
the chair, along with its related counterparts, visitors will
have the opportunity to learn and explore the evolvement
of armchairs, stools, sofas, chaise lounges etc...Pieces
have been taken from the collections of the National
Museum, which boasts one of the largest collections of
antique furniture in Poland.QD-3, National Museum,
Pl. Powstacw Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50,
www.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue (except the last Tue of the month).
From mid-October open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission 15/10z.
FESTIVALS
06.09 SUNDAY 19.09 SATURDAY
WRATISLAVIA CANTANS
Celebrating its 50th anniversary, the Wratislavia Cantans
event is still considered the most important festival of
classical music in this part of Europe. To celebrate this
historic year, the festival will feature performances from
the very rst concerts in 1966; as well as, special events
including the performance of Handels Alexanders Feast,
conducted by artistic director Giovanni Antonini (see full
schedule on website for all performances). A member of
the European Festivals Association, the Wratislavia Cantans
festival oers something for everyone and is well worth
a look.QA-4, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolnoci 1,
www.wratislaviacantans.pl. Tickets 30-150z. VIP tickets
80-300z. Available at www.bilety.nfm.wroclaw.pl, www.
eventim.pl, Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 21:00) and at the venue before the concerts.
vine.co/inyourpocket
GUITAR FESTIVAL
02.10 FRIDAY 07.10 WEDNESDAY
WROCAW GUITAR FESTIVAL
Poland has a great music scene and we defy anyone
with an ounce of musical interest to not get excited by
the Wrocaw Guitar Festival. The festival, in its 19th year,
will be focused on the talents of females this year. The
deep sensitivity, extraordinary talent, electrifying energy
and nesse of interpretation of the artists featured for this
years Wrocaw Guitar Festival GUITAR + Ladies will surely
impress any audience. Still going strong after all these
years, the festival will combine classical styles, including
amenco, world music, nger picking and much,
much more. While the focus is on guitar, the festival
encompasses a wide variety of sounds, instruments and
other art forms, including lm, art and dance. Not just one
for the musos - the Wrocaw Guitar Festival is something
that can be enjoyed by anyone into alternative culture.
7 concerts will showcase the most outstanding female
artists from Austria, Bulgaria, Spain, Canada, Germany,
Poland, and the United States.
Friday 02.10 Lagrimosa Belt
Classics and Greek vocals
Wrocaw Main Train Station, Concert Hall, ul.
Pisudskiego 105, B-6
Concert starts at 19:00. Admission free.
Friday 02.10 CARisMA
Vangelis, Einaudi, Chopin...
Saturday 03.10 Felice Quartet, Martha Masters
The rst classic guitar in USA
Saturday 03.10 Susan & Martin Weinert Synergy Duo
The explosion of energy and jazz
Vertigo Jazz Club & Restaurant, ul. Oawska 13, B-3
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 20-40z.
Sunday 04.10 Beata Bdkowska-Huang
Bach and Spanish music
Sunday 04.10 Julia Malischnig & Jacques le Roux
Magic of Southern Africa
Wednesday 07.10 Nia Pastori
Sing Flamenco
National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolnoci 1, A-4
Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 69-249z.
Qwww.gitaraplus.pl. Tickets 20-249z. Available at
www.tbox24.pl and before the concerts.
19
Culture & Events

20.10 TUESDAY 25.10 SUNDAY
AMERICAN FILM FESTIVAL
Now in its sixth year, the American Film Festival, aims to break
down the stereotype that all American lms are commercialised
mass-productions by presenting lms that would not typically
make it to Poland. From small unknown directors, to lms
that were rst screened at Sundance, the festival will include
screenings, seminars, panel discussions, and lectures meant to
go beyond lm and into the larger topics of culture and politics.
QA-3, Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21,
www.americanfilmfestival.pl. Tickets 20z, festival pass 175200z. Available at www.kinonh.pl.
MISC. EVENTS
13.09 SUNDAY
MAMAVILLE
For just one day, Mamaville presents a gathering of
designers, brands, and companies that are all related
to pregnancy, maternity, or parenting. Whether you are
expecting, a new mom, or already have a full brood of little
ones, there will be something for everyone at this event.
Learn about the latest products, take part in workshops
or presentations, there will be a section for exhibitors,
an educational zone, and even a cooking area!QBrowar
Mieszczeki, ul. Hubska 44, www.mamaville.pl.
BAZAR SMAKOSZY
Every Sunday join the fun at the Bazar Smakoszy, to enjoy gourmet
foods both locally and regionally sourced; as well as, appearances
of deliciousness from within Poland and internationally. Expect
everything and anything related to food!QG-6, Browar
Mieszczaski, ul. Hubska 44. Open 10:00 - 16:00.
OPERA
25.11 WEDNESDAY
CHOPIN - GIACOMO OREFICE
Sure, you know that Chopin was a brilliant Polish composer, a
master of the polonaise, mazurkas, and nocturnes. But did you
know that the great pianist inspired an opera as well? In 1901
Italian composer Giacomo Orece nished his work entitled
simply Chopin, a somewhat magnied retelling of Frederics life
and times. Though the opera was not a huge hit, it is obligatory
viewing for true Chopin fans.QA-4, Wrocaw Opera, ul.
widnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 370 88 80, www.opera.wroclaw.
pl. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 20-80z. Available at Wrocaw
Opera Box oce (open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00).
SPECIAL EVENTS
20.11 FRIDAY 22.12 TUESDAY
CHRISTMAS FAIR
Every year, there is a Christmas Fair organised on Wrocaws
Market Square. Starting at the end of November and running
up to December 22, the annual fair does a charming job
of lling the citys gift boxes and socks above the replace.
Entertained by the Bajkowy Lasek, a place where they can
hear and see some Christmas stories, children will be too
Culture & Events

busy to notice one of their parents slip o to choose the
best on oer and grabbing some additional bites like grilled
oscypek sheep cheese from the Polish mountains and
a mug of mulled wine. Its a great way to start or end your
Christmas shopping, and a ne alternative to overcrowded
shopping malls.QA/B-3, Rynek/ul. widnicka/ul. Oawska,
www.jarmarkbozonarodzeniowy.com. Open 10:00 21:00. Admission free.
SPORT
13.09 SUNDAY
WROCAW MARATHON
In its 33rd year, the Wrocaw Marathon will host over
5,000 runners. The race will start from Al. Paderewskiego
and nish 42.195 kilometres later at Olympic Stadium.
Sign up to run, or just go out and cheer the participants
on!Qwww.wroclawmaraton.pl. Event starts at 09:00.
Registration fee 120-150z.
THEATRE
17.10 SATURDAY 24.10 SATURDAY
INTERNATIONAL THEATRE FESTIVAL
In its 8th year, the Dialog Festival will cover 8 days and many
stages to present the theme of wandering, with the hope
that this wandering will lead to discoveries and experiences.
This year the festival presents the motto The World Without
God, and creates a discussion about humankinds never
ending need for happiness and fulllment.QEvent takes
place in various locations, www.dialogfestival.pl. Tickets
35-100z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek
50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
15.11 SUNDAY
NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE IN HD - HAMLET
The National Theatre brings the stage to the big screen
again with the showing of Shakespeares Hamlet,
starring Academy Award Winner Benedict Cumberbatch.
As we all know, the classic story of revenge, tragedy, and
war takes centerstage in this ageless production.QA-3,
Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel.
(+48) 71 786 65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Spectacle starts at
18:00. Tickets 40/30z. Box oce open from 09:00 to 15
minutes after last show.
21.12 MONDAY
LORD OF THE DANCE
The Irish music/dance show extraordinaire is on tour again.
Produced and directed by the multi-talented Michael Flatley,
whose lightning-quick footwork set two Guinness World
Records for tapping speed (28 and 35 taps per second, if you
were wondering), the musical tells a classic tale of good vs evil
based on ancient Irish folklore. If you miss them in Wrocaw,
the troupe will also be performing in Warsaw, Katowice and
Gdask.QI-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.
makroconcert.com. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 125195z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50,
B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
21
Restaurants
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The diversity and quality of restaurants in Wrocaw is ever

improving - as is the quality of service - and the citys
respectable number of international restaurants reects its
status as a thriving urban centre. While In Your Pocket once
tried to list every eatery in the city centre, the expansion
of the market and sheer redundancy of many restaurants
now make that pursuit impractical. In our dining section
youll nd reviews of the most noteworthy and high-prole
establishments in town, from those well-hidden places you
shouldnt miss, to prime locations you should swerve. While
our print guide carries a large selection of restaurants, if you
cant nd it here youll most certainly nd it on our website
(wrocaw.inyourpocket.com), where we list dozens more
reviews and encourage you to leave your own comments
about the places youve visited.
All IYP reviews are completely subjective, unsolicited and
updated regularly to ensure accuracy at press time. The
gures we quote in brackets represent the least and most
expensive main courses on the menu. The hours we list are
not necessarily the opening hours, but rather the times
between which you can expect the chef to be working.
Below are some specic recommendations depending on
what you might be looking for. Smacznego!
SPLURGE
By common consent JaDka remains Wrocaws best Polish
restaurant, while Le Bistrot Parisien (French), Brasserie
27, and relative newcomers Food Art Gallery and
Sukiennice 7 (all International) round out the citys top 5
(in our esteem, anyway). For ne dining in an unforgettable
location head to the Monopols rooftop Restauracja
Acquario (International).
CHEAP
Wrocaw is full of cheap eats. Try BLT & Flatbreads
(American), and see our Quick Eats section (p.27) for local
highlights like Las, and Patelnia. If its Polish youre after,
head to Chatka Przy Jatkach or Konspira, and later on hit
any Polish Snacks & Shots bar (p.48) for a late night refuel.
LADS
Bernard (International) oers litre steins of exclusive Czech
beer and plates piled high with hot snacks for sharing, while
the costumed gents of Pod Fredra (Polish) will keep you
plied with beer and brats all day and night. Alternatively,
head to The Winners Pub (p.49) for precision steaks with
a view of the match.
COUPLES
See our picks under Splurge, all of which will impress with
their high quality food, or go for dinner and a concert at
Vertigo (International). Boats also routinely score high
romantically, so moor up at Barka Tumska (International).
FAMILIES
The kids will get a kick out of dining on the water in Barka
Tumska (International), where they also get their own
menu and play area, or discovering the secret room in
Konspira (Polish), which also boasts a play area, cheap
food, and a lovely garden.
SPECIAL DIET
Vegans have it good in Wrocaw, just see our Vegetarian
section (p.39). Vega is right on the market square, raw
foodies have Machina Organika, and ne gluten-free
dining can be found in La Maddalena (Mediterranean).
Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking
T Child-friendly
6 Animal friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
B Outside seating
U Facilities for the disabled
S Take away
X Smoking room available
V Home delivery
W Wi- connection
Get to know the original and chic

character of French cuisine
E Live music
AMERICAN
BLT & FLATBREADS
This upscale American-inspired (free ketchup without
asking! large sodas!) sandwich and salad bar deftly balances
a somewhat grimy dive-bar location (thats a good thing)
with a sharp, clean, high-ceilinged interior to great eect.
The menu would hardly be inventive if not for the fact
that a decent sandwich is a rare thing in this country; as
such its a revelation. Choose from a wide range of quicklyserved variations on the burger, BLT and Philly cheesesteak.
The pizzas are delicious, the salads served on atbread are
creative, the presentation is top notch and the prices are fair
and aordable across the board. Open late, so youve got time
to get a couple cheeky ones in with the crowd stumbling past
the window before stopping by, or just do your drinking here.
QA-3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48) 71 796 33 44, www.blt.
wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (19-28z). GBSW
NEW
MOABURGER
Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very
proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography all over
the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic American
burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes, theyve
certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a
plate just wouldnt do) piled high with the topping of your
choice, and you might even consider splitting one with a
friend if you have any other meals planned later in the day.
Easy to eat and darn enjoyable, though youll discover its
not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries, and
drink coming in over 30z.QA-3, Pl. Solny 10, tel. (+48) 71
330 74 82, www.moaburger.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (11-28z). T6G
BSW
ROCK BURGER
Aiming to make the now commonplace experience of
eating a burger a transformative one, Rock Burger curiously
combines classic rock attitude with Eastern philosophy
to set themselves apart from the growing pack. Grilled
on volcanic rock and prepared in the spirit of the Five
Transformations, these tall, jaw-busting burgers are named
after rocknroll anthems and feature delicious avour
ul. Noownicza 1D
071- 341-05-65
info@lebistrotparisien.pl
www.lebistrotparisien.pl
29.99
Z
GET TO KNOW THE TASTE
OF TRADITIONAL
POLISH CUISINE
KONSPIRA - CAFE RESTAURANT CLUB

Pl. Solny 11, Wrocaw | konspira.org
23
Restaurants
combinations. The small nook theyre served in is plenty
hip, with its alt-rock soundtrack, and light xtures made
from cassette tapes and empty bottles. Non-meat options
are also available, and if youre lucky you might catch a local
speed eating contest. In two words...Zen Halen?QB-3, ul.
Szewska 27-27A, tel. (+48) 733 53 09 17. Open 10:00
- 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (14-24z). T6VGBSW
RODEO GRILL STEAK HOUSE
Hardly the kitsch cowboy cuisine you might expect from
the name, this steakhouse maintains the high standards
of Galeria Italiano - Wrocaws modern restaurant corridor.
Burgers are sequestered to only a brief requisite mention
at the end of the placemat menu, which is primarily a
range of steaks including T-bone, porterhouse and ribeye, prepared in the open kitchen in the corner. Our
roast beef was commendable, but if you want your meat
other than medium rare, make sure you say so (no one
asked us). An excellent beer list includes Svyturys Baltas,
La Trappe, Bishops Finger, Opat and others specically
selected to complement steak. The simple, airy interior is
neither too classy nor too casual and has a friendly family
atmosphere that keeps its tables as full as its patrons.
QA-2, ul. Wizienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71
343 20 71. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (14-99z). 6GBS
W
SOCZEWKA
A wide and nuanced assortment of delicious gourmet
burgers on the market square, including the guac- and
nacho-loaded chipotle burger, a chorizo burger, beet
burger, salmon burger and more. Couples can order the
mini-burger set for 52z, or plonk down with your friends
for a platter of worldly whiskies. Theres also a wide array of
mojitos and beer cocktails, and seating opposite the Town
Hall, or in the sharp interior. When were going through
cheddar cheese withdrawal, this is our sanatorium; in fact,
its hard to over-praise this place - its just that good.QA-3,
ul. Rynek 20/21, tel. (+48) 516 01 51 65, www.soczewka.
wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:30,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Note that opening hours are
subject to change. (27-83z). TUGBSW
SZTRASS BURGER
Though elusively located, the word is denitely out on
the cleverly-named Sztrass Burger, which stays packed all
afternoon with students, hipsters and families alike, eager
to get their mouths around Wrocaws tastiest burgers. The
menu is curt and creative; be bold and try a Karolburger
whose beef patty comes mixed with anchovies, blue
cheese and chives, and comes topped with arugula,
carmelised pear with ginger, and a pepper-lemon sauce.
Burgers conveniently come in two sizes for varying
appetites, vegetarians have some killers options as well,
and dont miss the sweet potato fries and homemade apple
cider. With a simple interior free of the feeble attempts to
be American that other burger places make, this is pure
Wrocaw; bear in mind, however, that Sztrass is so busy, you
Restaurants
may have to wait not only for your food, but also for a table.
QA-3, ul. Psie Budy 7/9, tel. (+48) 503 93 79 87. Open
12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. (14-22z). 6UG
BSW
FRENCH
LE BISTROT PARISIEN
One of our local favourites for a long time running, this
casual modern bistro openly pays homage to Paris with
framed period photography, ne wines and a lunch menu
redolent of dining in the French capital. The food - from
the steak in Roquefort sauce to the fresh mussels and
creme brulee - is of exceptional quality across the board,
making the relaxed atmosphere all the more refreshing.
A perfect place for convincing your company that you
have good taste, Le Bistrot is a popular congregation point
for ex-pats as well. The sta are very friendly, irty and
accommodating, and therefore in no way reminiscent of
the eating out experiences weve had in the real Paris. Wed
rather be here.QA-2, ul. Noownicza 1d, tel. (+48) 71 341
05 65, www.lebistrotparisien.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (2959z). GBSW
GREEK
AKROPOLIS
Wrocaw has a surprisingly sizable Greek population,
which explains the number of upscale Greek restaurants
right around the Rynek, Akropolis foremost among them.
No breezy seaside villa decor here - Akropolis is all dark
wood, wine-warm elegance almost compelling you to buy
an obligatory bottle of red. The atmosphere is a bit of a
throwback and has a certain Cosa Nostra appeal, with welldressed patrons wining and dining their dames in what is
still one of the best ethnic restaurants in the region. The
menu of seafood and Greek meats from the grill hits the
mark - we ordered lamb and were not disappointed.QA-3,
Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 343 14 13, www.akropolis.
wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-60z). GSW
INDIAN
MASALA INDIAN RESTAURANT
Well-positioned just o the market square, Masala does
traditional Indian food in a more contemporary European
style as Indian chefs work in plain view behind two long
bars in the obeat granite grey interior full of comical,
conical hanging lamps, pop art elephants and colourful
seat cushions. The 22-35z Express Lunch (served 12:00
- 15:30, Mon-Fri ) lls the seats and represents not only a
great bargain, but a great deal of delicious food. The regular
menu hits all the marks and portions are larger than most
places, earning our earnest recommendation. For those
travelling with little ones, note that a babysitter is on hand
12:00 - 18:00 on weekends.QB-3, ul. Kunicza 3, tel. (+48)
71 302 69 49, www.masala-grill.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-70z). TUGBSW
25
Restaurants
INTERNATIONAL
AQUARELLE
The flagship restaurant of Wrocaws Radisson Hotel,
and famed for its immaculate breakfast buffet (Mon Fri 06:30 - 10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 11:00). Elegant and
extremely professional, ala carte diners can choose
from a diverse menu of dishes ranging from the pricey
but proven veal tenderloin, to fish and pasta, and will
notice a good selection of cheap, simple kids dishes
(all priced around 20z): a rarity in Poland. A seasonal
courtyard terrace complete with lawn is also an
added bonus for families searching for somewhere
to eat.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 10 (Radisson Blu Hotel
Wroclaw), tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00, www.radissonblu.
com/hotel-wroclaw. Open 06:30 - 23:00. (24-95z).
TUGBW
BARKA TUMSKA
Nestled between the proliferation of islands and bridges
just near Ostrw Tumski, this fantastic river barge oers
no less than ve unique dining rooms over three levels,
including the Captains mess and the outstanding upper
deck - ideal for taking in the sights and sunshine. The
diverse menu of breakfast eats (served all day from 09:00),
budget sandwiches and seasonal Mediterranean-inspired
cuisine (the menu changes every 3 months or so) makes
Barka ideal for brunch, stowing away with a hot date, or
bringing the entire family: kids get their own menu and
play area and will love exploring the corridors of this
unique river diner.QC-1, ul. Wyspa Sodowa 10, tel. (+48)
71 322 60 77, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. Open 13:00 23:00. (25-38z). TUGB
BERNARD
Well go along with the crowd and admit that this
trendy brewery/restaurant is one of the most alluring
locales on the market square. A stylish, airy, three-level
interior with a long inviting bar, Bernard is characterised
by closely arranged tables which dont offer any privacy
but contribute to the casual atmosphere where the
menu is your placemat and its perfectly acceptable
to just enjoy a drink without eating. To that end, they
have their own beer in dark and light, as well as bottled
choices including a decent amber and four alcky-free
flavours which we wouldnt know anything about;
enjoy their draughts in glasses growing from 0.4 to
2 litres. The food is nothing to overlook with a menu
ranging from nachos to Polish classics like golonka and
the upper level tables in the window are a great place
to take your date, but reserve ahead.QB-3, Rynek 35,
tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54, www.bernard.wroclaw.pl.
Open 10:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:30. (31-83z).
T6UEGBSW
youtube.com/inyourpocket
Restaurants
QUICK EATS
For more fast dining options, get away from the fast
food franchises and get adventurous by visiting a milk
bar (p.40), Polish Snacks & Shots Bar (p.48), or one of
the fantastic local institutions listed below.
LAS/ZUPA
Building o the runaway success of their soup kitchen
at ul. Szewska 24/26 (B-3), Zupa has opened a second,
more proper location to purvey their delicious soups
- this one featuring more tables, an expanded (but
concise) menu of entrees, and open later. Dubbed
Las (Forest), the interior oers plenty of nice design
touches and a mezzanine, but the space is somewhat
poorly organised, and its popularity means it can be
just as packed as the original location. Its not hard
to understand why - the food is cheap and delicious,
and theres a certain camaraderie between the clients
and sta that makes you feel like youre supporting
your friends just by being here. Note that the soups (5
veggie, 5 with meat) are served till they run out and
after 17:30 they are half price!, the rest of Lass menu
is served until midnight. Recommended.QA-3, ul.
Igielna 14, tel. (+48) 733 87 33 07, www.zupa.
wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 24:00. (4-16z). 6GSW
PATELNIA
This tiny food hatch dishes out some of the nest
cheap, fast food in Wrocaw. The menu isnt just burgers
(for a change), but also quesadillas, dosa (a stued
Indian-style pancake), and amazing rilettes - a ciabatta
stued with your choice of stewed pork, turkey or wild
boar meat (seriously, you gotta try it). The gluten-free
crowd can also rejoice thanks to the pure corn-our
tortillas and rice our pancakes. Screw table service,
this is gourmet street food that youll love, and its open
late on weekends.QB-3, ul. Kunicza 29A, tel. (+48)
503 55 10 57. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. (8-20z). GS
ZZ TOP
The Zs stand for zupa (soup) and zapiekanki - a lling
Polish fast food specialty that is essentially the bottom
half of a baguette with mushrooms, cheese and the
additional toppings of your choice. This is denitely
the place to try one, as the bread and other ingredients
are actually fresh, not frozen (sadly, this is not the norm
elsewhere). As for the soups, they change daily and
can be ordered in 3 sizes; during our visit spicy chilli,
apple-onion, split pea, and bean-bacon were on oer.
Wrocaws fast food culture is steadily improving, and
this is one of the places leading the charge.QA-3, ul.
Kazimierza Wielkiego 25/1A, tel. (+48) 518 29 42 74.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
NS
27
Restaurants
BRASSERIE 27
Fancy and indeed avoursome, this place is owned by the hotel
Europeum but worthy of its separate entrance. A mega modern,
glass fronted appearance is complemented by designer hanging
lights and dark woods. The reassuringly short menu starts with
Italian and spans steak and also sh dishes, staying mostly within
the bounds of Mediterranean cuisine. Friendly service and an
award winning chef make this one of the better places in the city
to eat.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a (Europeum Hotel),
tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, www.brasserie27.com. Open 07:00 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (30-72z). UGBSW
CZARY MARY
Inside the new Ibis Styles hotel, the design of this charming
restaurant is modern and somewhat minimal, enhanced by
high contrast colours, oor to ceiling windows looking onto
the train station across the street, and - most of all - delightful
Alice in Wonderland murals by local artist Szur Szur. The service
is classy and the menu is a concise list of beautifully presented
entrees that combine unique avours into creative creations like
the duck breast with young beets and carrots, radish, snake garlic,
ruccola, green beans and a potato puree. For such a seemingly
casual, almost whimsical, environment, this is surprisingly upscale
dining, and a great choice for planning meetings or a meal
immediately upon arrival by train.QC-5, ul. Plac Konstytucji 3
Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 20, www.czarymary-restauracja.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (24-74z). TUGBSW
DOBRA KARMA
This health-minded and socially conscious slow food
eatery turns out popular whole-meal pizzas and delicious
dinners that dier each day, depending on the season.
Though not strictly vegetarian, caveman diet deniers will
have plenty to choose from, and theres always at least one
vegan and gluten-free entree. In accordance with the name,
good vibes abound, and youre likely to nd it packed with
students, young families and hipsters from the Nadodrze
neighbourhood.QA-1, ul. Cybulskiego 17, tel. (+48) 517 65
67 50. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (18-30z). T6GBSW
FOOD ART GALLERY
Plenty of restaurants use their wall space for promoting
young artists, but Food Art Gallerys high-art earnestness
ensures that this sophisticated contemporary art gallery is
also one of the most exclusive restaurants in town. Though
the simple and rened decor aims to keep your attention
on the painted canvas above your table, the artists probably
feel upstaged by head chef Maruisz Kozaks outstanding
presentation of mouth-watering dishes like honey glazed
barbarie duck breast, wild broccoli, cherries, oatmeal biscuit
and Porto jus. The food is both minimal and imaginative, with
over-riding local and French inuences, and the wine list and
service are unimpeachable. Located in a modern apartment
complex on the Oder with two seasonal terraces, FAG is the
perfect place for impressing and conveying seriousness to
potential partners, be they in business or bedroom matters.
QA-2, ul. Ksicia Witolda 1, lok.1, tel. (+48) 885 51 54 04,
www.foodartgallery.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. Closed Mon. (36-89z). T6EGBW
Restaurants
LE CHEF
One of the hippest looking locales on ul. Wizienna thanks to
the beach chairs all over the pedestrianised street in summer,
this small locale has reinvented itself as a fashionable tapas
and cocktail destination, oering daily lunch specials, nger
foods, salads and mixed drink pitchers for the committed.
From our experience, the chefs certainly know what theyre
doing, as do the bar sta - who have invented several
signature cocktails anyone would be proud of. With few tables
inside the slick interior, most of the space is outside in nice
weather, and this is the perfect place to people-watch and
be seen while also getting o the market square. Note that
the opening hours we list are for the kitchen, but the bar at Le
Chef stays open later.QB-2, ul. Wizienna 31, tel. (+48) 667
45 85 09. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (10-49z). T6UGBSW
LWIA BRAMA
One of the few places youll actually nd anything to eat if
youre strolling Ostrw Tumski, Lwia Brama oers some great
sidewalk seating in the warmer months from which you can
enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for the lamplighter to
come round and perform that most romantic of Wrocaw
rituals - the daily lighting of the districts gaslamps. In winter the
historic underground cellars arent as sprawling as you might
expect, but theyre certainly kept warm by the pizza oven and
also serve as a gallery for local artists (all paintings are for sale).
The menu here sticks to Polish and European standards, with
some dishes prepared in the sous-vide method.QC-2, ul.
Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 880 00 27 42, www.lwiabrama.pl.
Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (26-69z). GBSW
MARINA
Seafood and pasta on Wroclaws mini-marina, with a small
terrace oering views over the canal. Theyve re-styled the
interior into more of an upscale bar/lounge and the outdoor
garden area is great in the evening for pleasant views and
quiet conversation plus a new exclusive VIP room. If the
weather is too chilly head inside for a cosy cocktail and pay
close attention to their wine list as bottles are available for
take away as well.QB-2, ul. Ksicia Witolda 2, tel. (+48)
502 13 08 93, www.marina.wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(33-72z). TUIGSW
NEW
OK WINE BAR
Elegant, glitzy, and located right on the waterfront - this
place has everything youd be looking for in an upscale
wine bar and more. The decor is bright and modern, with
oor-to-ceiling windows letting in lots of natural light or a
nighttime city shimmer so perfect for a business meeting
by day or romantic dinner by night. The wine list is likewise
relievedly short but resoundingly robust (with glasses
beginning from 10z), but OK also operates as a shop with
over 2000 world vintages. Also on oer: hors doeuvres and
a daily three-course lunch from 12:00-16:00 for 36z (or limit
it to two courses for 29z).QB-3, ul. Ksicia Witolda 1, tel.
(+48) 71 714 21 26, www.okwinebar.com. Open 12:00 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. 6UEGXW
29
Restaurants
BREAKFAST
BARKA TUMSKA
One of the best breakfast menus in town, served all
day, on a boat - can you beat it? Choose between
several full breakfast platters (which include tea or
coee), pancakes, drop scones, eggs your way, bread
and cheese platters, porridge, toasted sandwiches and
more.QC-1, ul. Wyspa Sodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322
60 77, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. Breakfast served
09:00 - 22:00. (8-39z). TUGB
BEMA CAFE
Simply a fabulous place to start the day (or spend an
entire one), the breakfast menu may not bowl you over
but its served all day and includes muesli, oatmeal,
omelettes, breakfast sandwiches, salads and more. Plus,
their amazing coee is included in the tiny price.QC-1,
ul. Drobnera 38, tel. (+48) 71 322 02 12. Breakfast
served 08:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (11-19z).
BREADWAY
While the rest of the market square is still sleeping, this
bunch is up baking fresh bread, baguettes, pastries and
other sweet and savoury treats to start your day. Enjoy
a coee and a croissant, or fresh-squeezed orange juice
and a plate of tapas, in their outside terrace across
from the Town Hall, and watch Wrocaw slowly wake
up before your eyes.QA-3, Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 532 06
21 89, www.breadway.pl. Breakfast served 07:00 22:00, Sat & Sun 08:00 - 22:00. GBSW
CENTRAL CAFE
This American-style bakery and cafe is open early for
breakfast, oering pastries, cupcakes, quiche, yoghurt,
oatmeal and over a dozen bagel sandwich possibilities; big
appetites can also order eggs their way and even pancakes.
QA-3, ul. w. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23,
www.centralcafe.pl. Breakfast served 07:00 - 14:30; Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 14:30. (8-20z). TUGBSW
GISELLE FRENCH BAKERY CAFE
One of the best breakfast menus weve seen in PL, and
its served all day. Choose from a range of tasty egg
concoctions (like fried eggs on toast with avocado,
tomatoes, olives and almonds), quiches, pastries and
French specialties like Croque Madame, Monsieur and
their own excellent Croque Giselle. The delicious coee
comes in huge mugs and all the bread is baked fresh on
site daily. Unbeatable.QB-3, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48)
71 725 55 62. Breakfast served 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 19:00. (15-20z). T6GBSW
POD PAPUGAMI
Long known as a default Wrocaw drinker, it shouldnt be
forgotten that the Pod - in the plummest of plum locations
on the Rynek - serves up some rather good food too. Take
advantage of the three-course 28z lunch menu, served
Mon-Fri until 17:00, or wait until evening when the terric
pork steaks will set you up very nicely for a night of cocktails
and live music inside this classy tourist-friendly venue full
of classic movie memorabilia.QA-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a,
tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (36-80z).
TEGSW
PRZYSTA (THE HARBOUR)
Decked with tall blonde wood chairs and tables and
decorated with old nautical illustrations and knottying charts, Przysta nonetheless remains thoroughly
modern matching the design of the well-placed new
building it occupies. Across the river from the main
university building, the real reason to dock in this
harbour is the deck seating over the water which
offers great views and actually feels like youre on a
boat. The concise menu offers pastas, risottos and
gorgeous salads - including the very brave chicken
liver salad with apple, avocado, orange and parmesan.
QA-2, ul. Ksicia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13 08
93, www.przystan.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat
10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (30-78z). T U
GSW
RESTAURACJA ACQUARIO
The upscale restaurant on the rooftop terrace of the
legendary Hotel Monopol, Acquario oers an enticing,
eclectic menu with a special air for seafood and innovative
tasting menus with 3, 5, 7 or 9 dishes to choose from. If
youre anything like us, however, youll be just as interested
in the world-class wine list. Theres really no better way
to relax than with a bottle of red enjoying the fabulous
views over Wrocaw through rose-tinted glasses.QA-4, ul.
Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37
80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Open 18:00
- 23:00. 3 dishes(120z), 5(150z), 7(210z) and 9(290z).
UGBW
RESTAURACJA EUROPEJSKA
This newly renovated restaurant on the ground floor of
the Hotel Europejski has gone through a similar rebirth.
The classic environs are highlighted by the same
inviting orange and warm wood tones of the hotel
which match the modern Polish and transcontinental
European menu perfectly. The mix of classic dishes
transcends the usual Hotel Restaurant fare and the
presentation and service is truly exceptional. Even
if youre not a guest we suggest stopping in for their
continental comprehensive breakfast buffet (6:3010:00) is a great way to start your day!QB-5, ul.
Pisudskiego 88 (Europejski Hotel), tel. (+48) 509
35 67 92, www.europejskiwroclaw.pl. Open 06:30 21:00. (12-59z). TUGSW
DINING VENUE
SET LUNCH MENU

(12:00 - 16:00)
BUSINESS MEETING SPOT
OK WINE BAR
WINE BAR / RESTAURANT / SHOP
Wrocaw, ul.Ksicia Witolda 1 | tel. 71 714 21 26 | www.okwinebar.com
Restaurants
RESTAURACJA PATIO
An absolutely excellent restaurant, well worth visiting
whether youre staying in the upstairs hotel or not; in fact
walk-ins would be wise to take advantage of the business
lunch (served Mon-Fri, 12:00-16:00), which oers a
delicious meal that shows o the skill and craft of the chef
and is worth much more than the 28z you pay. Choose
between two dining areas - the bright, open building
atrium, or the more elegant burgundy and black dining
room with arm chairs and creative glass chandeliers adding
a bit of class. Also they now oer gluten free dishes and a
kids menu. Recommended.QA-3, ul. Kiebanicza 24-25,
tel. (+48) 71 375 04 17, www.restauracjapatio.eu. Open
06:45 - 22:30. (30-100z). TUGW
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TIPPING TRIBULATIONS
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries its normal
to say thanks when a waiter collects the money,
youll be horried to learn that in Poland uttering the
word dzikuje, or even thank you in English, is an
indication that you wont be wanting any change back.
This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and
expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does
their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed
for asking for your money back, or conveniently
disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be
careful only to say thank you if you are happy for
the waitsta to keep all the change. Otherwise we
advise you to only use the word prosz (please) when
handing back the bill and the payment.
Despite the fact that most waitsta in PL are only paid
in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more
than 10% of the meals total (though being a foreigner
may make the sta expectant of a bit more generosity).
As such, we encourage you to reward good service
when you feel its deserved. Finally, it is virtually
unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because
waitsta are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you
wont get the chance. Therefore its essential to have
some change or small bills handy in order to leave your
server a tip. If you dont have any, ask for change.
STARY KLASZTOR (THE OLD MONASTERY)

Though rebuilt after the war, this former Dominican
convent dates back to the early 14th century and was
previously the site of a very upscale restaurant - a fact
which hints at the wow factor of its interior. Full of
gorgeous architectural details and high arching ceilings,
its a bit like dining in a cathedral, but dont be mistaken
- you wont be cloistered o from society here. Aimed at
Wrocaws student population, theres an eclectic concert
schedule with live music three nights a week on average
in the gothic cellars (check their FB page for details), and a
large beer garden in summer. On top of that, the full menu
of European eats is quite good and the beer selection is
great. If youre really pinching pennies, the attached Bistro
Nowy Targ is super cheap. Worth investigating for eats,
drinks and hijinks.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519
89 47 69, www.staryklasztor.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00.
(10-89z). 6EGBSW
SUKIENNICE 7
Certainly one of the most elegant, upscale dining
establishments to open in Wrocaw in some time,
Sukiennice 7 oers an outstanding menu of modern Polish
and Mediterranean culinary creations served on slabs of
slate or thinly-sliced tree trunks. A certain theatricality
exists here as the chefs in their funny hats put on a show
in the open kitchen (surrounded by a long bar), and the
waitresses scurry about wearing in something akin to folk
costumes, while a pianist plays in the evening - during
which time you can expect this place to be packed despite
the ample size of the modern interior. A great place for
large group reservations, keep costs down Mon-Fri 12:00
- 16:00 with their lunch specials.QA-3, ul. Sukiennice 7,
tel. (+48) 71 342 74 56, www.sukiennice7.pl. Open 12:00
- 24:00. (26-69z). TUGBSW
VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT
How about dinner and a concert? Head to the best jazz
venue in the region for a sophisticated evening of rhythmic
music, killer cocktails (none of which are called Hot Sax)
and a range of modern fusion-inuenced European dishes,
like the swingin guinea fowl breast on pear-potato puree
with raspberry-balsamic-green pepper mousse - whoa,
Daddio. Concerts begin at 19:00 Tuesday to Thursday,
Restaurants
and 20:30 on Friday and Saturday (check online for exact
details); reservations recommended.QB-3, ul. Oawska
13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open
13:00 - 24:00; Sat, Sun 17:00 - 24:00, Mon closed. (2245z). UEGBW
WODNIK RESTAURANT
Within walking distance of the Zoo, the restaurant of the
Wodnik Hotel certainly isnt a bad option in an area where
choices are limited (and therefore crowded). In keeping
with the nautical theme of the hotel, the emphasis here is
on fresh sh, which they prepare in their own smokehouse
and enhance with herbs from their own garden. Enjoy
tempting dishes like salmon teriyaki or the exotic halibut
lasagna with mussels, shrimp, marinara sauce, capers
and zucchini in the white-scrubbed interior or sunny
seasonal terrace. Get there by taxi, or by walking across the
Zwierzyniecka Footbridge from the south side of the Zoo
(I-5).QH-5, ul. Na Grobli 28 (Wodnik Hotel), tel. (+48) 71
343 36 67, www.wodnik-hotel.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (42-68z). T6GBW
ITALIAN
CAPRI RISTORANTE PIZZERIA
Found inside the Galeria Italia complex the style here is clear
and simple, with visual distractions essentially limited to the
streetside views and the theatrics of other diners. Choose from
an ambitious range of Italian dishes, with the real emphasis
placed on spaghetti, while the proprietors Italian origins are
unmistakable in their inuence on the end product. Prices
remain pegged at sensible levels, providing prospective diners
with all the more reason to visit.QB-2, ul. Wizienna 21
(Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71, www.capripizza.
pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (11-120z). T6GBSW
NEW
LA DOLCE VITA
This new intimate Italian restaurant oozes authenticity, but
you dont need us to tell you that, your nose knows best.
Although its ocial name is La Dolce Vita, locals refer to it
as Giovannis place - after the charismatic owner and head
chef. He has a lot of specialties but his thin crust pizza with a
wide range of fresh imported toppings will blow you away.
They also have a great selection of seafood and pasta dishes
plus a great wine selection, but its the pizza that is truly
perfecto!QB-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel. (+48) 71 319 45
59. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-60z). T6GBSW
LA SCALA
Tried and true La Scala enjoys a big reputation amongst
locals, despite revved-up Rynek prices and uneven service
from the bow-tied sta. Thats down to the food no doubt,
with arguably the best Italian in town in the exclusive
upstairs eatery, while the ground oor trattoria oers guests
a cheaper, more concise incarnation of the menu amongst
red-chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural Italy and strings
of garlic.QA-3, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372 53 94, www.
lascala.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (20-150z). TBXS
33
Restaurants
JAPANESE
DAREA SUSHI KOREAN - JAPANESE
RESTAURANT
A huge open plan space that does little in the way of dcor,
but plenty for the reputation of Korean food. Overseen by
a Korean chap who settled in Poland over a decade ago
Darea oers a cracking menu of both Japanese and Korean
dishes including tangsuyuk (sweet and sour beef baked in
pastry), bulgogi and ve grill options where the cooking is
left to the patrons. Highly recommended and a conrmed
favourite of Wrocaws expats. Take-away on oer at a 15
percent discount.QB-2, ul. Kunicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71
343 53 01, www.darea.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (20-100z).
TVGBSW
One of the most prestigious

sushi restaurants in Poland.
A temple of taste, in a classic
Japanese style, gathering
many loyal customers.
SAKANA Sushi Bar
Ul. Odrzaska 17/1a

50-113 Wrocaw
tel./fax 071 343 37 10
www.sakana.pl
A unique place, perfect

for an intimate party or
exquisite supper.
CATERING AND DELIVERY

TO YOUR HOTEL ROOM AVAILABLE
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Arguably regarded as the best sushi in the capital, the
Sakana team have expanded to cover Wrocaw and the
natives appear to be loving it. Expertly prepared raw sh
oats by on small boats inside a pleasant white interior
decorated sparingly with bamboo bits and bobs. Denitely
one of the addresses to be seen dining in, as proved by
the crowds of fashionista who prop up the bar.QA-2, ul.
Odrzaska 17/1a, tel. (+48) 71 343 37 10, www.sakana.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-50z).
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MAHI MAHI
Diverging from Wrocaws other Japanese establishments,
Mahi Mahi oers a vast menu of hot Japanese and Thai
dishes, including choice steaks, seafood, teppanyaki,
curries and pan-fried noodle dishes (and sushi of course).
Though the diversity of the full menu is admirable, for the
less initiated it may well be overwhelming; fortunately, the
lunch menu (oered Mon-Fri 13:00 - 16:30) provides an
easier decision. Perfect for business and exceeding popular,
the fact that freshly ground wasabi root can be requested
reveals that Mahi Mahi isnt messing around - this is
authentic Asian cuisine at its best.QB-3, ul. widnicka 5
(entrance from ul. Oar Owicimskich), tel. (+48) 71
729 93 95, www.mahimahi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00; Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. From
November open 12:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (15-450z). T6UG
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SARAH
Located near the White Stork Synagogue and Jewish
Community Centre, Sarah can make as claim as Wrocaws
most Jewish restaurant, for whatever thats worth. The
budget menu is not kosher, but features traditional Jewish
dishes, and though reports of their quality and that of the
service is a little uneven, this is still a great place to spend
time in our opinion. With plenty of atmosphere thanks to
earthy colours, menorah candlelight and loads of antiques,
Sarah is reminiscent of the cafes found in Krakws old Jewish
Restaurants
district and teams with Mleczarnia to create one of the best
seasonal beer gardens in the city.QE-4, ul. Wodkowica 5,
tel. (+48) 609 99 01 97, www.sarah.wroclaw.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (13-32z). 6UGBS
STEINHAUS
Endeavouring to capture the scholarly, sophisticated
spirit of inter-war society, the main feature of Steinhaus
smart dark wood interior is the large chalkboards, casually
scribbled with daily specials, mathematical equations and
humorous quips attributed to the restaurants long-beaked
namesake - Hugo Steinhaus - a well-known Polish-Jewish
mathematician, professor and aphorist. In his honour, the
owners have created a place where the humanities, science
and humour gather at the same table to share some
conversation, libations, and outstanding Jewish Galician
dishes like lamb shank with porridge and dumplings.
Appropriately placed in the District of 4 Denominations,
this multi-faceted venue has character to spare.QE-4, ul.
Wodkowica 11, tel. (+48) 512 93 10 71, www.steinhaus.
pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (16-58z). UGBSW
MEDITERRANEAN
LA MADDALENA
With a great location next to the Mleczarnia beer garden, and
including seasonal outdoor seating overlooking the White
Stork Synagogue, La Maddelena oers upscale dining in
Wrocaws former Jewish, currently hipster district. The cremecoloured, conservatively elegant interior includes homely
touches like wicker lampshades and quilted seat covers, and
can accommodate large groups as well as couples looking
for a more intimate date destination. An enticing menu of
Mediterranean dishes, ranging from light tapas to expertly
prepared pastas, makes the art of deciding a challenge and
with the big emphasis on presentation you may be tempted
to take out your camera when they arrive. Portions are small
but delicious, and youd never guess that 80% of the entrees
are gluten-free.QE-4, ul. Wodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 782 60
90, www.lamaddalena.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. (29-79z). TUGBSW
VA BENE TRATTORIA
Looking to rise above the recent rash of upscale Italian
restaurants all across the country, Va Bene has diversied to
oer more Mediterranean dishes and a seasonal menu to
continue their credible claim as some of the best food in town.
The interior is suitably sharp and features the original ceiling,
which is worth taking a peek at whether youre hungry or not.
Sneak in for the 23.90z daily lunch menu, and in summer
enjoy people-watching from their market square patio.QB-3,
Rynek 51, tel. (+48) 71 343 83 50, www.vabenerestauracja.
pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (26-78z). TGBSW
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REAL ITALIAN FOOD
La Dolce Vita
ul. Wita Stwosza 16
tel. 71 319 45 59
/ ladolcevitawroclaw
FLOWER POWER
Lads, listen up. In concert with the societal consensus
that Polish women are beautiful, the countrys daughters
have been dutifully trained to wield their sex in the form
of elaborate and irtatious gender games, and you will be
expected, if not helpless, to play along. One of the most
important Polish courting rituals involves the presentation
of owers to your muse and her mother at almost every
opportunity. The rules of this game are arbitrarily complex
and antiquated but transpire to the eect of what follows:
Always give an odd number of owers (or stems) unless
the occasion is a solemn one, and make sure to remove
the paper before you arrive. Red is for love; pink is for
potential mothers-in-law and also a good neutral fallback colour when youre unsure of protocol; yellow is
for envy and should probably be avoided. You cant go
wrong with roses, chrysanthemums are for the dead and
carnations are unpopular due to lingering communist
connotations. The rest is on you; good luck and welcome
to the 18th century.
In Wrocaw the tradition of bestowing owers on local
beauties is so strong that theres an entire square - Plac
Solny (A-3) - devoted to their sale. Located just o the
main market square, Plac Solnys ower market is open
every day of the week and well into the wee hours for
you late night Lotharios.
35
Restaurants
korean - japanese restaurant
Wrocaw, ul. Kunicza 43/45

reservation tel. (071) 343 53 01
restauracja@darea.pl
www.darea.pl
THE BEST SUSHI IN THE CITY
POLISH
ART RESTAURACJA & KAWIARNIA
A hotel restaurant that would thrive even without its captive
audience of hotel guests. The vaulted interiors of Art come
decorated with light colours, timber beams and wicker
chairs, while visual distractions include a well, local artwork
and potted shrubbery in every conceivable form. The
menu does the rest with a strong line in maritime delights
and regional Polish cuisine in addition to well-presented
modern Italian dishes.QA-2, ul. Kiebanicza 20, tel. (+48)
71 787 71 02, www.arthotel.pl. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (32-78z). 6UGBSW
CHATKA PRZY JATKACH
This small, popular Polish eatery, across from the ul. Jatka
gallery stalls, achieves the trick of appearing like a rustic village
cottage if you dont notice the ceiling ductwork. Enhancing
the illusion is the genuine Bolesawiec folkware on the tables
(begging to leap into someones handbag), stout wooden
tables, timber ttings and a thatched awning over the bar.
The menu - conveniently available in Polish, English, German
and Spanish - features all the Polish classics, but take note that
almost everything on it is fried. Despite the average food, it
can be hard to score a table in this veteran chow house, which
makes a ne place for a fast, local lunch, or late evening meal
if you were busy drinking when the dinner bell rang. And they
conveniently accept Euros.QA-3, ul. Odrzaska 7, tel. (+48)
71 342 72 20, www.chatkaprzyjatkach.eu. Open 12:00 23:00. (10-30z). GBS
DWR POLSKI
One of the most regal-looking restaurants on the Rynek,
Dwr Polski is stued full of stued falcons, Hussar wings
and enough medieval armour and weaponry to start a
museum. Those looking for a royal feast however, may be
disappointed. Despite the upmarket prices and palatial
interiors, the food - mostly game dishes like pheasant, hare,
boar and venison carved up with pewter cutlery - doesnt
always live up to expectations. Gamey indeed, and if youre
a vegetarian, get away quickly.QA-3, Rynek 5, tel. (+48)
71 372 48 96, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (30-65z). T6GBS
JADKA
Faultless modern and traditional Polish cuisine with a
Lithuanian inuence served inside an ornate, imperial
backdrop featuring vaulted brick ceilings, timber and starched
linen. The concise menu wont bowl you over, but the class
and quality will. Choose from roasted duck with apples, black
currant sauce, potato dumplings and fried beetroot, or seize
the moment by ordering wild boar. Expect an expansive wine
list, professional service and a commitment to excellence.
One of the few world class dining options in the city.QA-3,
ul. Rzenicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64 61, www.jadka.pl.
Open 13:00 - 22:00. (27-92z). T6GSW
@InYourPocket
Restaurants
KARCZMA LWOWSKA
Translating to Lviv Tavern and dedicated not only to that
formerly Polish city now lost in the wilds of the Ukraine, but
also to that thought-to-be lost Polish ideal of a simple country
lifestyle, this nostalgic restaurants immaculately decorated
interior is decked out in rustic, rural artefacts, antiques, old
photos and seems to have a stued pheasant on almost every
table. Designed for day-long feasting, the menu of traditional
Galician specialties looks like an outstanding bargain before
you notice that all side dishes are charged separately,
however the result is still a decent value and evidence that
not everything on the market square is a tourist trap.QA-3,
Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343 98 87, www.lwowska.com.pl.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (30-80z). T6EXW
KONSPIRA
Recreating the 1980s with newspapers, political cartoons,
posters, and other communist era imagery, Konspira calls itself
a Centre for Historical Education illuminating Wrocaws role
in the Solidarity movement. With some English info it could
do a better job, but as a restaurant its absolutely brilliant with
enormous portions of tasty local grub and absurdly cheap prices
seemingly straight from the old days. The killer location includes
a huge garden full of gorgeous trees(!), a historical exhibit (Polish
only, unfortunately) and even an outdoor play area for kids. Make
sure you ask to see the hidden room - a clever artefact-laden
recreation of what a Polish apartment might have looked like in
the mid-80s. Completely unique, worth checking out and worth
the bill twice over.QA-3, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00,
www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (10-30z). TGBSW
PIEROGARNIA STARY MYN
Taking pierogi - a traditional staple of Polish cuisine - and
turning them into a tourist-eecing cash crop, Pierogarnia
Stary Myn specialises in baked dumplings, as opposed to
your traditional steamed variety. The menu is a meandering
visual mess, but oers a range of savoury, sweet, meat or
veg llings, with your choice of sauces on the side. Choose
from overpriced sets of 3, 5 or 9, where adding an additional
individual pierog costs an absurdly exact 8.96z (baked) or
5.46z (steamed). To their credit, the dumplings are very large
(start with 3) and tasty, but hardly traditional. The textbook
denition of a tourist trap, there are dozens of other places
in Wrocaw where you can taste your rst pierogi.QA-3,
Rynek 26, tel. (+48) 71 344 14 15, www.pierogarnie.com/
wroclaw. Open 11:03 - 22:57. (13-32z). TGBSW
PIWNICA WIDNICKA
Seems things have gone downhill a bit since this place was
opened over 700 years ago, making it the rst beer cellar in
Europe. Named after the Schweidnitz (widnica) beer brewed
in the basement back in those days, today it serves primarily
as an eective tourist trap where the labyrinth of historic Town
Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into ordering rather average
overpriced traditional food served by uncaring sta. Nonetheless
an Old Town landmark, and well worth a look at the very least.
QA-3, Rynek-Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 369 95 10, www.
piwnicaswidnicka.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-75z). G
Karczma Lwowska
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karczma@lwowska.com.pl
www.lwowska.com.pl
37
Restaurants
POLISH FOOD
Placki
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the

world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the
following to the test:
Bigos: Also known as Hunters Stew. Though theres no
standard recipe for this hearty dish, its usually made
using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever
else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days.
If you have second helpings then consider yourself a
Pole by default.
Gobki: Translating to little pigeons, this favourite
dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stued with
beef, onion and rice before being baked and served
with a tomato or mushroom sauce.
Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pigs thigh. A true Polish
delicacy, the meat should slip right o the bone, be
served with horseradish, and washed down with beer.
Go caveman.
Kiebasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops youll nd an
enormous variety, made from everything from turkey
to bison.
Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally lled with
potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and
cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will
nd plenty of maverick llings like broccoli, chocolate
or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are
served almost everywhere.
Placki: These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very
similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash
on top (placki po Wgiersku). Highly caloric, theyre also
a tried and true hangover cure.
Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz
and urek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be
served with potatoes or mini-pierogi oating in it, or
with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it
solo in a mug for drinking. urek is a unique sour rye
soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg
chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.
POD FREDR
A perfect introduction to traditional Polish cuisine, from a
perfect location inside Wrocaws medieval Town Hall, Pod
Fredr ably covers the spectrum of Polish classics and even
boasts its very own onsite smokehouse. The music, walls,
and meaty menu combine to create the appearance of
an old Polish village and the sta will dutifully serve you
in at least three languages (Polish, German or English). The
extensive country fare is complemented by a large and
international wine list, and you need not worry about your
eyes being too big for your stomach as theyre quite happy
to doggy-bag whatever youre unable to put away of the
large portions.QA-3, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341
13 35, www.podfredra.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (30-60z).
T6UBXS
QUCHNIA POLSKA
Obviously upmarket when you enter, this place aims to
combine innovative international cuisine with classic Polish
ingredients and additions. A cosy interior with warm colours
should be the law in Poland with those biting winters - this
place ts the bill perfectly. Attractively restored features of the
old building, including (almost) awless coving. It was a rst
for us, but the dish of another diner in the restaurant looked
so good that we just had to have the same; the chicken with
mushroom sauce is excellent alongside cooked spinach and
pan fried potatoes. Flawless food for sure. Located on the
main square, with ttingly exceptional views.QA-3, Rynek
20-21, tel. (+48) 71 343 56 17, www.quchniapolska.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:30. (20-60z). GBSW
RESTAURACJA MONOPOL
Known under communism as the most exclusive restaurant
in Wrocaw, queues would stretch outside the revolving
doors as the sta shooed away anyone not wearing a tie,
and menus and tableware frequently disappeared into the
pockets of souvenir hoarders banking on the Monopols
rep as a culinary masterpiece. With the historic building
renovated and under the savvy stewardship of Likus, today
that excellence is back in place with master chefs preparing
a wide range of traditional Polish dishes, and an inspired
breakfast smorgasbord starting each day. A modern
classic, just leave the cutlery when you go.QA-4, ul.
Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37
80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Open 06:30 10:00, 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 07:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:00.
(65-75z). UGW
SPANISH
TAVERNA ESPAOLA
Six types of paella, a good range of tapas and tortillas, sh
in abundance, a superb veggie selection and a coveted
location (including terric Rynek-side seating in season)
all ensure that this Spanish eatery stays stoked with happy
patrons. Inside you will nd a vaulted room full of gloomy
corners and a scary mannequin dressed like a matador.
QA-3, Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 71 344 65 62. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (23-50z). TGBS
Restaurants
UKRAINIAN
HORTYCA
With the historical and cultural connection that post-war
Wrocaw shares with Ukraine, you would expect Ukrainian
food to be more prevalent locally, but well happily settle
for Hortyca. With a radio playing from behind the bar and
a simple menu of traditional dishes, this casual, cheap and
tiny restaurant oers a surprisingly authentic experience of
Ukrainian dining, enhanced by the folksy decor, atware,
and dress of the plump-faced waitress. If youre not wellversed in Ukrainian food, its basically what you might have
surmised: a blend of Polish and Russian cuisine; as such, the
short menu is populated with dumplings, blinis and borscht.
Our Plov - a rice dish with meat and traditional seasonings
- was delicious, and we capped it o by toasting PLs eastern
neighbours with a shot of Nemiro.QB-2, ul. Wizienna
18/1, tel. (+48) 71 318 75 66, www.hortyca.com.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (10-20z). T6GBSW
KNAJPA KRES
Kresrefers to the former eastern provinces of PL lost after WWII
(today in Lithuania, Belarus and Ukraine), though they seem
to be using the term more liberally here, with Czech beers,
Georgian wine, although the food is decidedly Ukrainian
with the house specialty being Chicken Kiev. The menu may
pose a challenge for those unfamiliar with obscure Eastern
dishes, but the sta will help you gure out that most of the
food is fairly familiar. Though primarily a cheap restaurant,
the atmosphere here is that of an alternative bar/cafe with
a young crowd and more hipster hallmarks (unnished
oors, plywood bar, neon sign) than interwar nostalgia. With
frequent events and lm screenings, Kres wants to be a bit of
everything, but its surprisingly friendly for a place that exudes
cool.QA-3, ul. Oar Owicimskich 19, tel. (+48) 884 15 10
45. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 21:00. (10-25z). 6EGBSW
Polish Cuisine
Rynek 20/21
tel. 71 343 56 17
www.quchniapolska.pl
VEGETARIAN
NEW
AHIMSA RESTAURANT & CLUB
Okay, rst things rst: these people really do know their
spices, and its hard to believe that someone can inject
this much avour into lowly tofu. You wont leave hungry,
either; the all-vegan menu oers huge portions of veggie
sizzlers, masala dosa, stir-fry vegetables in peanut sauce,
thali and sushi of the day, falafel, and veggie burgers. While
the delicious smell might just be the deciding factor when
choosing to dine here, the warm minimalist ambience
entices to sit a while longer.QE-4, ul. w. Antoniego 23,
tel. (+48) 71 344 55 22, www.ahimsa.com.pl. Open 11:00
- 21:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 21:00. Closed Mon. (14-27z). T6GBSW
Read more reviews online:

39
Restaurants
MILK BARS
A lot has changed since
communism got kneecapped and Poland
joined the EU. While
many of the old ways of
the old days have disappeared or become
slightly disneyed in
todays tourist-laden
Krakw, one relic remains resolutely un-Western: the
Polish milk bar, or bar mleczny. These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat cuisine to an endless queue
of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim
glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can
eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely
well-fed one. Put the Racawice Panorama on hold, a
visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for
anyone who has just set foot in the country.
As restaurants were nationalised across the country by
PLs communist authorities after WWII, milk bars appeared
in their place to provide cheap, dairy-based meals to
the masses (as cheerlessly as possible, apparently); in
fact meals at the local milk bar were often included in
a workers salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage
cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars oered
omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as our-based foods
like pierogi. Times were so desperate under communism
that many milk bars chained the cutlery to the table to
deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning youll
notice that most milk bars today use disposable dishes
and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic
cups with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken
by ashen-faced, all-business babcias (Polish grannies),
and the food is as inspired as ever - the only dierence
being that meat is no longer rationed in modern PL.
With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny
went bankrupt, however, some of these feed museums
were saved and continue to be kept open through state
subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall o
as closing time approaches, so go early, go often.
JACEK I AGATKA
QB-3, Pl. Nowy Targ 27, tel. (+48) 71 344 24 55.
(3-10z). NG
MI
No doubt named after the classic Polish comedy lm
which caricatured milk bars during the communist era.
QB-3, ul. Kunicza 48, tel. (+48) 71 343 49 63. Open
07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (5-14z).
NG
BASZTA
Centuries ago (eight of them to be exact), this gloomy
brick tower was part of the citys medieval defensive
fortifications, and today it houses one of the most
unique alternative hang-outs in town. Offering an
outstanding menu of vegan and vegetarian food,
choice from outrageously cheap curries, pad thai,
tempeh and tofu satay, ramen and other Pan-Asian
delights, plus a range of vegan and gluten-free
desserts. Baszta also doubles as a gallery for surreal
graphics over its three ancient storeys, and achieves
a low-key, romantic, bohemian vibe perfect for bean
bag conversation or burying your nose in a book.
Getting there is an adventure, and youll surely make
an impression on anyone you navigate through the
dark courtyard behind Hala Targowa to Basztas door
(most easily achieved from ul. Piaskowa). Seek it out.
QC-3, ul. Kraiskiego 14, tel. (+48) 603 51 08 35,
www.baszta.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. T6 G BSW
MACHINA ORGANIKA
Beyond simply vegetarian, this exciting organic vegan
eatery/cafe across from Pasa Niepolda oers very
creative cuisine and a dierent menu every day. When
we dropped in it was avo-mango-carrot soup with
tomatoes, thyme and sunower seeds (how can you
resist giving that a try?). In addition to the original vegan
entrees, salads and desserts, the drinks list goes beyond
great coee and local beers to include a range of enticing
creations like avocado cocoa with almond milk, mango
lassi and watermelon tonic. Set over three levels (the
downstairs of which is decidedly more loungy), Machina
Organika also features a lovely interior with timber
ceilings, a long L-shaped bar, wire light xtures, plenty of
potted plants and colourful tiles work that almost gives it
a bit of a hacienda feel. Recommended.QA-3, ul. Ruska
19, tel. (+48) 733 53 72 10. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00
- 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (10-20z).
T6UGSW
NAJADACZE.PL
Wrocaw now has enough alternative eating options most of them excellent - to send tourists on a veritable
vegetarian food crawl. This small, likeable and exclusively
vegan eatery is certainly worth seeking out as well,
oering a concise menu of Arabic and Indian cuisine
thats also conveniently available in English. The falafel
burgers (13z) are a big hit, while other highlights include
the humus, tofu cheesecake, tofu dumplings, kofta and
more. Theres a range of fair trade coees, teas, sodas
and even a few choice beers, the food comes out of
the kitchen fast, and costs almost nothing. Eat well and
spend little - thats what its all about no matter what
your diet.QB-2/3, ul. Noownicza 40, tel. (+48) 71 344
55 11, www.najadacze.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00
- 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (6-20z).
6VGBSW
Restaurants
NALANDA
Hit up this quiet cafe and bookstore to eat healthy veggie,
vegan and gluten-free food, and pick up all the alternative
lifestyle info you could possibly need while in town. The
kitchen follows the principles of the ve transformations
and portions are big, so if that doesnt match your
appetite ask them for a half-portion. The books are on
every new age-y subject you can imagine from astrology
to numerology, tarot-reading to Eastern Philosophy, and
though not many are in English, youll still nd a rather
international crowd of academics, intellectuals and
activists coming here to work, meet and eat well while
indie rock darlings like Bon Iver and Grizzly Bear play in the
background. The organic interior features a mezzanine,
random furnishings and bre art and hosts regular events
of everything from Amnesty International get-togethers
to belly dancing and sitar concerts.QA-5, Pl. Kociuszki
12, tel. (+48) 508 33 00 79, www.nalanda.com.pl. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (13-20z). T6U
NGBSW
VEGA
This veteran establishment earns honours for being the
the rst in the country to commit to going all vegetarian
when it opened way back in 1987. Now, following a
needed renovation, Vega has upped its own anti- by
going 100% vegan. Set over two oors right on the
market square, the modern makeover has done wonders
for the interior and the food is good as ever, especially
the amazing cakes, desserts and vegan ice cream. Enjoy
daily specials, meatless cutlets and Eastern-inspired
dishes, with plenty for diabetics, those going gluten-free
and even raw foodies. Full of yers and activist info, this
place is a veritable counter-culture centre, and probably
the cheapest, most alternative place you can eat on the
market square of any major city in Poland. Way to go,
Wrocaw.QB-3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39
34, www.barvega.wroclaw.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Fri
08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (725z). T6GBSW
ZE MISO (EVIL MEAT)
After some rather nomadic beginnings, Evil Meat (bless
its tofu heart) has dropped a squat deep in a courtyard
o of ul. Oar Owicimskich and looks inclined to stay.
Featuring plenty of home-made tattoos, dreadlocks, DIY
decor (milk crate light xtures, mural art) and always a
dog or too, this place has remained an underground
institution, and is one of the citys best vegetarian
eateries. Despite being a gathering place for the Great
Unwashed, enticing smells hit you as soon as you step
inside; choose from daily specials, curries, casseroles,
veggie cutlets, falafel, pizza, tofu and two things weve
never seen before in PL - seitan and tempeh(!). Hard to
nd, and even harder to believe how good it is, look for
the green neon sign and go veg out.QA-3, ul. Oar
Owicimskich 19, tel. (+48) 667 94 78 04, www.
zlemieso.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00.
(15-23z). T6NGBS
41
Cafs
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AMORINIO
This colourful Italian cafe offers enough sundaes,
shakes and other sweet treats to make all the teeth of
a shark fall out in ecstasy. Seriously, the sheer variety
of desserts available here is awe-inspiring and makes
deciding a challenging conundrum (dont worry, theres
no incorrect choice). The modern design is eclectic,
but smart, with exposed bricks, wallpaper disguised as
tile mosaic, and a subtle angel theme that gets less so
when applied to the cute teenage girls in vintage red
dresses working here, while the clientele is largely their
peers and grandmothers. A great place to take the kids,
if youve overdone the sweets there are also a range
of savoury soups, quiches and crepes.QB-3, ul. Wita
Stwosza 1-2, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 44, www.amorinio.
pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. TG
BSW
NEW
AROMATY
Part cafe, part china shop; stopping here for a cup of
tea will feel like visiting your fashionable granny. With a
roomful of mismatched furniture and warm splashes of
color on the walls, ARomaTy (Aromas) is a cozy, tuckedaway place where everything is on sale, just name your
price. Great space to organize events (up to 25 people)
just check their FB before you drop by as their opening
hours are subject to change.QPl. Stanisawa Staszica
12 (Nadodrze), tel. (+48) 501 62 65 85, www.aromaty.
wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
6GSW
BEMA CAFE
Probably the nicest cafe north of the Odra, we arent the only
ones gushing about Bema Cafe, which was nominated for the
Ale Lokale 2013 award. A rather industrial interior design of
coarse concrete and bare bulbs is oset by large display cases
and plenty of natural light, and the terrace boasts perhaps
the only parasols in town devoid of corporate emblems.
Open early for breakfast (served all day!) and oering plenty
of yummy sweets and lunch eats, absolutely delicious fresh
juices and amazing coee drinks prepared with a variety of
alternative brewing techniques, we nd ourselves using this
hip, neighbourhood cafe so often as an oce, that its actually
starting to feel more like...well, home. Heartily recommended.
QC-1, ul. Drobnera 38, tel. (+48) 71 322 02 12. Open 08:00
- 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. 6UGBSW
BUKA Z MASEM
This fantastic venue succeeds at being a casual restaurant,
trendy cafe and after-hours hangout all at the same time, thus
making it a trick for us to categorise, but a joy to drop by any
time of day. In addition to daily specials, the simple, laminated
menu oers aordable eats: all day breakfast, burgers and club
sandwiches, plus a concise list of cocktails and shakes served
in classic milk and jam jars. While the moody upstairs and
soft-lit downstairs are both cool and casual, this venue is really
rooted in its outstanding, ivy-covered garden. Achieving that
rare feat of mass appeal and hipster approval, Buka z Masem
makes the shortlist of must-visit Wroc venues whether you
want a coee, beer or bite to eat.QE-4, ul. Wodkowica 8A,
tel. (+48) 503 47 62 41. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 24:00. 6GBSW
Cafs
CAFE BORWKA
Standing like a welcome centre at the frontier of
the Old Town, this amiable cafe dispenses coffee to
go, cookies, cakes and ice cream sundaes along the
riverfront promenade where the citys medieval walls
once stood, and features a fabulous rooftop terrace
when the weather is inviting. American in attitude,
Borwka roasts its own beans, brews its own organic
fair trade joe, and makes an ideal pit stop en route
to the bustle of the Rynek.QA-4, ul. widnicka 38a,
tel. (+48) 71 343 12 25, www.cafeborowka.pl. Open
07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. T 6 G B
SW
CHARLOTTE CHLEB I WINO
Bucking the citys craft beer obsession, Charlotte is focussed
on fresh baked bread, pastries, French classics like Croque
Madame and creme brulee, and gourmet cheese and meat
platters - all accompanied by great coee or wine (no
beer!). As such, its great for breakfast, whether in the sunny
patio or spacious, stylish interior. The hipster quotient of
the clients here is o the charts, and only outmatched by
the sta, who look like theyre posing for a Paris-themed
street fashion shoot while you wait for your order, or even
a place to sit. It took Krakws Charlotte some time to get
their act together, and we assume theyll get over their
growing pains here as well, but by the looks of it, Charlotte
is an instant success.QA-3, ul. w. Antoniego 2/4 (Pasa
Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 608 64 69 66, www.bistrocharlotte.
com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. T6UGBSW
COCOFLI
The name is a strained acronym for coexistence,
cooperation, friendship, love and identity, but we would
have gone with something along the lines of cobobaga
(coee, books, bar and gallery) to better get at the
many facets of this friendly establishment. Culture should
probably be in there somewhere as well, since this place
has become a bit of a meeting place for it. Creating an
antiquated intellectual aesthetic thanks to a mish-mash
of furnishings including a wall-length bookshelf, old
telephone switchboard, and unique decorative art with
portraits of luminairies from Wrocaws Jewish past, Cocois
selection of comics and childrens books will make you wish
you spoke Polish. Here its possible to get your coee with
rice, soy or almond milk, or enjoy a glass of wine or a local
microbrew.QE-4, ul. Wodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 756 99
90. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. GBW
KAWIARNIA LITERATKA
A splendid cafe/bar on the main square, patrons can be
seen and seem book-smart under the outside awning in
good weather, or retreat into the two-oor interior lled
with framed portraits of literary luminaries and ceiling
to oor shelves straining under the weight of Polish
hardbacks. Decorated with dark wood furnishings, red
drapes, chandeliers and an illuminated globe, Literatkas
artsy elegance outclasses most market square options,
COFFEE ICE CREAM CAKES
PANCAKES
TARTS
SOUPS
amorinio - ice cream

& grand cafe
XO:LWD6WZRV]D:URFDZ
www.amorinio.pl
and has become a favourite place for puers as it
represents the last place on the market square where
you can smoke since the ban. Now theyve also got a
little something going on in the kitchen with lunches
served Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 (21z). Shame that the music
sometimes lets the show down, or we would spend most
of our time there.QA-3, Rynek 56/57, tel. (+48) 71 341
80 13, www.kawiarnialiteratka.pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
6BXW
VINYL CAFE
This groovy little cafe is an obvious labour of love, and
old school audiophiles will literally feel right at home
with the living room arrangement around the hi-
record player. Full of cosy armchairs, crates of vinyl LPs
and shelves of books, come in, pick out a 45, curl up
with a coee or beer and a book and youve got yourself
the perfect afternoon. The sound system is state-ofthe-art, their extensive record collection ranges from
Dizzy Gillespie to Devendra Banhart, and bonus points
for the policy of making sure a side plays all the way to
the end before it gets changed. The coee comes in big
mugs, sweets are on hand, theres a strong selection of
Czech beers, wine and cider, and you can also buy and
trade records here. A second home to many.QB-3, ul.
Kotlarska 35-36/1a, tel. (+48) 508 26 02 88. Open
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00,
(Opening hours are subject to change so check their
FB page). T6UGBSW
43
Nightlife
Grabb yourrself
Gra
self a cr
crafty brew or two and divee into Wr
Wrocl
oclove
ovess heaadyy Nig
Nighhtlife.
Wroclaw bars are exible - no matter what the ocial

closing times are, most will stay open until the last
customer has crawled out. The lions share are concentrated
around the market square, but for more alternative
drinking destinations also check out the divey tipplers
strip below the ul. Bogusawskiego train tressle (F-5),
and destinations west of the market square, namely the hip
cafe/bars of Pasa Pokoyhof (A-3, ul. w. Antoniego 2/4)
and ul. Wodkowica (E-4), and the hedonistic courtyards
o ul. Ruska, including Pasa Niepolda (E-4, ul. Ruska
51). Recently, ul. Oar Owicimskich (A-3) has also
emerged a one of the citys most happening alternative
streets. For clubbing, the main hedonist hangouts are ul.
w. Mikoaja (A-3) and the famous Pasa Niepolda (E4), where the parties last until morning even if you dont.
Expect cover charges of anywhere from 5-20z at the door
on weekends, and dont expect to nd toilet paper in any of
the bathrooms after 22:00.
CRAFT BEERS
Microbrews are all the rage in Wrocaw these days, so
theres no excuse for drinking bad beer. Discover the
depths of Polish beer culture in Kontynuacja, Marynka,
Szynkarnia and Pod Latarniami.
Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so visit

our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com (of which
theres also a mobile version) - to read reviews of almost
every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments
about all of those which youve visited. Read on for some
recommendations to start you on the path to drunken
delinquency. Na zdrowie, and happy hangover.
COUPLES
Show o by starting the night with a fancy drink in Papa
Bar or the Monopols Sky Bar, or enjoy a classy jazz concert
at Vertigo (Live Music, p.50). Continue the conversation by
candlelight in Mleczarnia, or take a turn on the danceoor in Nietota.
COCKTAILS
Shake it up in Wrocaw stalwarts Papa Bar and Pod
Papugami, while Grey, Domwka and PRIV (Clubs) are
currently the most exclusive catwalks for celebrity spotting
and being seen.
STUDENTS
As beer prices go up, cheap shot bars (p.48) are appearing
all over, sustained by Wrocaws student population. Wicars
has a denite frat party appeal while Szajba and Manana
(Clubs) are the best locales for spontaneous booty-shaking.
LADS
Winners is the civilised choice for football, food and beer,
but you can do that at home. Instead, make friends over Pro
Evo in Padbar, challenge the locals to foosball in Wicars,
and dont miss trying one of the Polish Snacks & Shots
(p.48) spots in town like Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa.
ALTERNATIVE
Regular presentations on how to be a Polish hipster are
given in Szklarnia and Do Jutra; Nietota (Clubs) has a
darker side, Neon Side illuminates the citys edgy urbanity,
and Art Cafe Kalambur (Clubs) is the heights of opiatic art
nouveau decadence.
Nightlife
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking
N Credit cards not accepted
6 Animal friendly
E Live music
X Smoking room available
B Outside seating
W Wi- connection
BARS & PUBS
Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky
ul. Rzeznicza 28-31

50-130 Wroclaw
Openin
n g in se
e ptember 2015!
wroclaw@Barmax.pl
www.Barmax.pl
www.domwhisky.pl
t a il s
f r u it c o c k
L e g e n d a r y sh and exxotic fruits
ad e w it h f re
m
COCTAIL BAR MAX & DOM WHISKY

Building o their success on the beaches of Sopot, Cocktail
Bar Max now aims to raise the standard of mixed drinks in
Wrocaw when they open this new location in September.
Known for their top shelf liquors, expansive range of
colourful cocktails laden with fruit, and the skill with which
their sta shakes them up, well be heading here this fall to
see if the results live up to the reputation preceding them.
QF-4, ul. Rzenicza 28-31, www.barmax.pl. Open 11:00
- 05:00. UBXW
DO JUTRA
Pasa Pokoyhof has exploded with new bars, and Do Jutra
is denitely the best of them. With a long bar and low
lighting courtesy of dangling retro lightbulbs and bits
of neon, the interior has a creased, unpolished, sawdust
saloon appeal, while pallet-chic patio furniture extend
this divey drink tank outside. Everything a Polish hipster
could ever want is available here, including craft beer on
draught and in bottles, creative cocktails, bearded barmen,
and a solid, aordable menu of eats, plus daily specials
and a separate late-night menu. Skip the neighbours and
park your pony here.QA-3, ul. w. Antoniego 2/4 (Pasa
Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 883 50 21 02, www.dojutra.com.
Open 15:00 - 01:00, Thu 15:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 05:00. GBSW
KONTYNUACJA
Wrocaw might be the best beer city in PL, and this is its best
craft beer house. With 26 beers from PL and abroad on draught
(including two hand-pumps), the ales are inscrutable, though
the atmosphere isnt always there. Here you wont nd the
loud din of a beer hall, but low music and a discerning, overly
civilised crowd of connoisseurs. What exactly its missing,
were not sure, but the modern, minimal decor with a few
street art touches is apparently neither alternative nor cosy
enough to create the buzz youd expect from the bar with the
best brews in town. Still, if you want to nd praise for Polish
beer - this is the place.QA-3, ul. Oar Owicimskich 17,
tel. (+48) 792 40 00 84. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 16:00 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. UGBW
election
st whisky s
The Bigges
in Poland
Kazimierza Wielkiego 50A

Wrocaw
Tel.: +48 71 715 60 60
www.setkabar.com
/ setkabar
Bar Polski Ludowej
45
Nightlife
this is a rened place for beer lovers to relax without the
snobbery you might associate with connoisseur culture.
Worth seeking out.QA-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39,
tel. (+48) 504 31 49 01. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. GBW
MLECZARNIA
Weve been mainstays at this dusky, back-street, candlelit
pub since our rst days in town. Hidden in an enchanting
courtyard with the White Stork Synagogue and a glorious
oak tree, the summer beer garden is fantastic, while the
sepia interior of wobbly furnishings and framed sketches
captures an ethereal, nostalgic atmosphere better than
anywhere else in Wrocs former Jewish district. A bohemian
mix of local academics, hipsters and hostelers drink
through the debate topics of the day while an excellent
mix of ethnic and indie music (always played at just the
right level) drifts through the air. Honestly, Mleczarnia is the
kind of place we could live in, and some regulars appear to
actually do so. With a hostel upstairs, you can too.QE-4,
ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 788 24 48, www.mle.pl.
Open 08:00 - 04:00. BXW
KRVN
Shorthand for Karavan (obviously), this odd and amiable
bar/bistro combines a smart post-modern aesthetic with
a street art edge and deliberate traces of urban decay:
think steel doors and subtle neon, plus strange Sharpie
scribbles on unnished walls. In the evenings its a total
hipster hangout full of fanny packs, plug earrings, ironic
moustaches and fast electronic music. The drinks menu
is unique, inventive and nothing short of excellent, with
a long list of original cocktails and hot concoctions for
weathering the long Polish winter. By day natural light
lters through the street-side windows and KRVN is more
of a bistro with a great menu of hot sandwiches, Polish
pancakes, burgers, pasta and salads (served until 22:00, FriSat 23:00). An ideal place to pretend youre not a tourist, this
is essentially the perfect Wrocaw hangout.QE-4, ul. w.
Antoniego 40/1A, tel. (+48) 881 63 04 95, www.krvn.pl.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GBSW
MARYNKA PIWO I APERITIVO
Marynka essentially takes the idea and atmosphere of a
wine and tapas bar and applies it to choice ales. Here you
can select from upwards of 75 beers from all over the world,
including 8 regularly changing taps, while snacking on
tasty appetisers (which come free with your beer between
18:30 and 21:00!), and theyve now added delicious woodred pizza to their bag of tricks thanks to a cooperation
with Happy Little Food Truck parked out back. Hidden in an
obscure courtyard behind Graciarnia near the Royal Palace,
NEON SIDE CLUB & GALLERY

This passageway between ul. Ruska and ul. Antoniego is
now not only a living gallery for street art, but also salvaged
neon art from the Soviet era. Not only is the interior of this
alternative venue densely laden with neons (in various
states of condition and working order), but the facade is also
hung with historic neon signs, thus making the entrance
rather hard to miss. Part bar/club and part museum/
gallery, inside Polish speakers will nd some info about
the history of each sign alongside where it shines down on
the retro furnishings of this hipster clubhouse with choice
beers, weekend DJs, and a general counter-culture vibe.
Absolutely worth seeing, even if just for a look around in
the evening.QE-4, ul. Ruska 46C, tel. (+48) 604 26 12 20.
Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. UGBW
NIEBO CAFE
As long as you keep drinking, Niebo will stay open, and
this has become an after-hours cult classic packed with
students obliterating scholarships well after dawn; when
one drops o theres three more to replace them. A long,
dog-eared, scarlet and blue bar full of random art photos
and oddities, Niebo is the start and nish point for many
neighbourhood pub crawls, so youll have to step over a
few casualties on your way to the dance-oor, pumping
your st to the classic rock and 90s anthems.QE-4, ul.
Ruska 51b (Pasa Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71 342 98 67.
Open 13:00 - 05:00, Mon 17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 08:00. UBXW
OLD HAVANA CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE
For those who enjoy the ner things in life - whiskey and
cigars, of course (and probably a third thing we must be
forgetting) - Old Havana oers a haven where good ole boys
can sit back, swirl some cognac in a glass, grip a cigar in their
grin and enjoy some common discourse. This small shop
Nightlife
and lounge with a walk-in humidor oers hundreds of rolled
Cubans, cutters, ashtrays and other accessories, plus a wide
selection of whiskies, cognacs, port and rum - all of which
you can enjoy on the premises, or take with you. The sta
are very knowledgeable and eager to have your company
in one of their leather armchairs.QA-3, ul. Kiebanicza 24,
tel. (+48) 790 80 22 81. Open 10:00 - 22:00. XW
PADBAR
With a beer in one hand and a joystick in the other, Padbar
is a concept club for gamers (not gay men, sorry for the
confusion). The investment here obviously went into
equipment, not decor, which consists of black sofas, bean
bags, plywood tables...and dozens of atscreen TVs where
you can play seemingly every video game, for every gaming
system, ever created. But Padbar isnt limited to video games
- there are plenty of board games as well, plus the obligatory
Warhammer and Magic: The Gathering crowds. With stencil
art of Rambo and Einstein holding game consoles, and a
cocktail menu with names like Princess Zelda and Crash
Bandicoot, this place is impressively thought out, wildly
popular and loud with laughter. Perfect for making new
friends, getting nostalgic and having a blast, few places are
as fun and friendly as Padbar. Game on.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 1, tel. (+48) 883 75 17 14, www.padbar.pl.
Open 18:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. UGW
PAPA BAR
One of Wrocaws most stylish and chic bars, how much you
favour Papa Bar really depends how much you fancy yourself
a t with the jet set. Filled with foreign and local hotshots
in collars and cuinks beside blonde beauties and botox
cougars drinking cocktails and single malt whiskeys around
an endless rectangular bar, grand colonnades support the
ceiling while red carpet shots of smiling Hollywood hunks
and starlets dress the walls. The space is enormous and has
been entirely given over to smokers, with the exception of
a small corner. Though the tedious house music is hardly
original, Papa Bar still provides many of the comforts other
places lack - including competent mixologists, sports
on the atscreen and a menu of great eats served late.
Recommended.QA-3, ul. Rzenicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71
341 04 85, www.papabar.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00
- 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. UBXW
POD LATARNIAMI
A warm, elegant, yet perfectly casual pub with a retro
turn-of-the-century interior full of mirrors, marble and ne
woodwork, including a long bar tted with lanterns. In
addition to great atmosphere, theres are 8 craft beers on
draught, rows of bottled ales and whiskies, and a mercifully
short menu of local specialties and grilled meats (including
a very good breaded pork chop), which are not only
tasty, but represent a great value. One of the few places
in Wrocaw to earn mass approval from high-collared
businessmen, British tourists, wind-creased geasers and
rst-dating students. We like it too.QA-3, ul. Ruska 3/4,
tel. (+48) 71 344 03 24. Open 10:30 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
10:30 - 04:00. UGBW
47
Nightlife
POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS
AMBASADA
Everything here costs a slim 5z coin, making Ambasada
so packed at night that you might not even get a
glimpse of the slightly upscale interior covered in old
travel agency adverts and transatlantic posters. High
ceilings, soft lighting and a long bar, this embassy draws
a slightly older crowd and the high volume makes
new acquaintances that much more attainable.QA-3,
ul. w. Mikoaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 337 38 18. Open
24hrs. UGBW
PIJALNIA WDKI I PIWA
Franchising its way across PL, this place has the formula
down and its presence on both the market square and
now in Pasa Niepolda make it one of the most popular
bars of its creed. Essentially your cookie-cutter communist
nostalgia snack bar, Pijalnias walls are papered in old news
clippings with a few propaganda posters and photos
of the pointless queues prolic during the period this
place attempts to evoke. Drinks for 4z and food for 8z,
the atmosphere is lively and if youre feeling bold you can
order the niespodzianka (surprise).QB-3, Rynek 13/14,
tel. (+48) 533 17 14 10. Open 24 hrs. UGBW
SETKA - BAR POLSKI LUDOWEJ
For those who miss the Communist system in Poland
and those who simply missed it altogether, Setka (the
Polish name for a 100ml glass of hard alcohol) recreates
the spartan simplicity of a Communist bar or diner.
However, instead of just a dreary room of empty shelves,
grey walls, and unsmiling patrons, youll nd a veritable
homage to all things Communist. The time-warp motif
covers most of the 20-foot high walls as well as the bar,
tables and decorations, which include tiny iconic ats
(Maluch) for you to dine in inside and out. Even the
menu is a typically large, imposing and inexible tribute
to Communists days although the mouthwatering tangy
ribs are worth the trip alone. Theres more ambience
than there should be for a real historical re-enactment,
but the low prices and completely casual dress do an old
Communist watering hole justice.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 50a, tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www.setkabar.
com. Open 10:00 - 06:00. UGW
Photo by Karol Grzenia
POD PAPUGAMI
Packed with wasp-waisted blondes Pod Papugami still
rates as one of the top venues in town for terric food,
smart drinks and live music. Squeeze among the local
stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid lm reels,
projectors and vintage movie memorabilia. Champagnevoiced chanteuses take the stage most nights, and the
performances are usually very good indeed.QA-3,
ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www.
podpapugami.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. EGW
SZAJBA
Hidden one courtyard east of Mleczarnia, this large,
versatile high-ceilinged club/gallery caters to Wrocaws
large demographic of hipsters who create happenings. Old
50s and 60s radios with glowing gummy bear lamps atop
them line the walls above old framed advertisements and
prints by local artists. The furnishings, as you can guess,
are more of the same attic antiques you nd in many such
places, with candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty
of room for large groups. Seasonal outdoor seating, an
eclectic alternative playlist, extensive exotic drink list and
free wi are just a few more of the reasons Szajba is a great
place to pass time; the bar sta are obviously enjoying
themselves, as our coee came with a near-complete tictac-toe board drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the
winning stroke. A great nd.QA-3, ul. w. Antoniego 2/4
(Pasa Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 660 40 42 70, www.szajba.
wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
UGBW
SZKLARNIA
Oar Owicimskich Street has exploded with hip new
venues to become one of Wrocaws most exciting
streets - and this may be its most popular hangout at
the moment. Bearing all the hallmarks of hipster paradise
- pricey craft beers, cool cocktails, groovy music, DIY
design and good eats - theyve basically taken all the
best aspects of their neighbours and combined them
here. Theres even a club in the basement on weekends.
Dubbed Greenhouse (as Szklarnia translates in English)
thanks to a glass ceiling, this large space features a long
wrap-around bar, lots of natural light, and plenty of
plywood and pallets (naturally). A delight by day, things
get crowded in the evening when it basically turns into
a urban lifestyle blog.QA-3, ul. Oar Owicimskich
19, tel. (+48) 503 56 56 71. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 05:00. GBW
SZYNKARNIA
Another in a recent urry of craft beer houses in Wrocaw,
Szynkarnia is a hog of a dierent colour, however. Doing
unique double-duty as an ale house and deli counter
stocked with ne meats and cheeses, this place is
more of a low-key neighbourhood hangout than party
headquarters, despite a location bookending Pasa
Niepolda. In addition to the 14 craft brews on draught,
try the tasty podpomyki - a healthy wrap made on their
Nightlife
own bread and lled with the local deli xings of your
choice - delicious! The white-washed timber-tted space
features a cosy antresol and basement as well, and the
breakfast and lunch specials warrant return visits to this
completely original and relaxed establishment at all times
of day.QE-4, ul. w. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 733 80 81
34, www.szynkarnia.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu
09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
UGBW
THE WINNERS PUB
As far as sports bars go, this is the best in Wrocaw. A nice
balance is struck between the intimate, modern interior
of creme-coloured booths, all with a good view of one
of the 10 atscreens (they also have a projector), and the
antiquated black and white sports photo wallpaper and
outdated athletic equipment on the walls. Theres also
a simple, sparse and not at all cheap menu of modern
American food, with the specialty being steaks fried on a
hot volcanic stone. Very professional service comes from
young ladies who are clearly runway models on their o
days, and the pub atmosphere is only let down by the lack
of good beer. Nonetheless, with sidewalk seating as well
as a share of Wrocaws best beer garden in front of the
White Stork Synagogue when the weather is cooperative,
wed say Winners has got Guinness Pub beaten handily.
QE-4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 519 54 18 94, www.
thewinnerspub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. BXW
WICARS PUB
Located underground in the catacombs of Partisan Hill,
this is one of the most unique venues in Wrocaw, not only
for its singular location, but the plethora of pursuits they
oer in addition to pizza and 70 types of beer (as if you
need more). A wonderland for lads (and ladies too), Wicars
features 6 atscreen TVs streaming matches, 7 free foosball
tables and 2 free electronic dart boards. On top of that they
host concerts and karaoke nights, have an outdoor grill in
warm weather, and there was a large group poker game
going on when we dropped in. Foosball tournaments take
place on Sundays and workshops for honing your skills are
on Wednesday. Get your game on.QB-4, ul. Piotra Skargi
18A, tel. (+48) 887 56 66 65, www.wicars-pub.pl. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00.
GBW
WIZIENNA PUB
During this spaces brief stint as a childrens cafe (in a
medieval prison? really?) this cult bar with its fantastic
beer garden (shared with Motyla Noga) was sorely missed.
Honestly, you simply cant ask for better atmosphere than
the courtyard of a 14th century prison, but the interior is
cosy and perfect for catching up with good company
if you can get a table. Unique in that half of the taps are
devoted to wine and cider, youll also nd some choice
bottled beers, and the barsta are friendly and competent.
Welcome back, old buddy.QB-2, ul. Wizienna 6, tel.
(+48) 693 56 26 20. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 02:00. GBW
PASA NIEPOLDA
This raucous courtyard (or passageway) ve minutes

from the market square is one of Wrocaws most
popular and legendary clubbing destinations. Packed
with over a dozen bars and clubs inside a space of
less then 50 metres, you almost expect it to be fair
game to take your drink with you as you go door to
door exploring each one (its not). While the venues
here change often, some mainstays like Niebo and
Bezsenno have been highlights of the citys drinking
scene for what seems like forever.
Once a somewhat obeat alternative to drinking
on the market square, in recent years this historic
passageway has been renovated and gone full
mainstream with banners that welcome tourists and
young girls who seem to have forgotten to nish
dressing handing out leaets. An obvious eort to
keep some order and crack down on outside drinks
is also now being made; to this end gates have been
installed at both ends, where you can expect guards
to tell you to lose that vodka bottle, and even frisk
your purse for whatever else youve got squirrelled
away. As a result, the neighbouring space in front of
the bank at the corner of ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego and
ul. Ruska (A-3) has become a total free-for-all of preentry binge drinking.
If you favour a quiet drink in sophisticated
surroundings, youll want to stay as far away from this
hedonist haven as possible; Pasa Niepolda parties all
night, sustaining an unprecedented level of energy,
noise and sloppiness all the way through to morning.
Its a spectacle that has to be witnessed, though
may not be to everyones taste, particularly since the
quality of bars here has declined of late. Ocially
addressed at ul. Ruska 51 (E-4), Pasa Niepolda is
just west of the centre in a courtyard connecting
Ruska and w. Antoniego Streets. To nd it make
your rst left o Ruska after crossing ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego (A-3).
49
Nightlife
LIVE MUSIC
All venues that can claim to oer live music are marked
with a saxophone icon E, but in addition to those
below, Stary Klasztor (p.32), Pod Papugami (p.48) and
Nietota (p.51) are particularly worthy of investigation.
To nd out what specic concerts are happening when
youre in town, check our Events section (p.17).
ETER CLUB
If youre sick of brick cellars, head to this thoroughly
modern marvel for a lesson in grand dance-club
design. One of the citys top venues, Eter looks the part
with dazzling professional lighting and an incredible
sound system - put to good use while hosting some of
Wrocaws best concerts and events. Spread over two
underground levels with four(!) bars, chill out on the
splendid upstairs mezzanine overlooking the stage/
dance-oor sofas before heading down into danceoor carnage with an unpretentious crowd determined
to take full advantage of the night. Check their website
to see whats on.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego
19, tel. (+48) 796 62 29 11, www.eterclub.pl. Open
hours depend on the event. For concerts open 20:00
- 03:00, for clubbing open 21:00 - 05:00. UEG
RAGTIME
This veteran venue has grown some grey hairs, but
remains an engaging endeavour that refuses to follow
fashions and retains a charismatic personality of its
own. Vermilion walls are home to all manner of visual
diversions, from framed pics of jazz gods to musical
instruments. A wrought iron mezzanine allows the
opportunity to admire all the clutter and the regular
Wednesday and Thursday jazz concerts are free to enter
and not to be missed.QA-3, Pl. Solny 17, tel. (+48) 71
343 37 01, www.ragtimecafe.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. EXW
VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT
This esteemed music entertainment outt boasts
its own record label, and nally its own venue for
hosting almost nightly jazz concerts. Modern in its
slick design and acoustic precision, but classic in its
intimate atmosphere and Cotton Club appeal, Vertigo
is the best jazz club in the region and a nirvana not
only for earnest jazz enthusiasts, but also the players,
who are complimented with a high-prole Artists
Lounge at stage left. The cocktail prowess of the bar
sta is almost over-the-top, and theres a nice menu of
creative European eats to accompany the live music,
which generally begins at 19:00 Tuesday to Thursday,
and 20:30 on Friday and Saturday (check online for
exact details); most concerts are free, and while
reservations arent necessary, they would be wise.
QB-3, ul. Oawska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.
vertigojazz.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00; Sat, Sun 17:00 24:00, Mon closed. UEGBW
CLUBS
ART CAFE KALAMBUR
An artsy bohemian headquarters by day, this tiny
Seccessionist space becomes one of the sloppiest, most
unhinged student clubs in Wrocaw on weekends, with
the party going on until dawn oclock. As drunken revellers
bump into the DJ booth, the masses writhe to skipping
recordings of everything from classic MJ to the Doors to
Goran Bregovic. So chock-a-block with shimmying students
and hipsters that dancers obstruct the door, so start testing
your moves on the approach cause youre going right into
the frying pan, friend.QB-3, ul. Kunicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71
343 92 68, www.kalambur.org. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UNXW
BEZSENNO (INSOMNIA)
Pasa Niepoldas longest tenured club and arguably still
its best. Wrocaws sophisticated singles gather amid a
decadent background of comfy sofas, stark concrete walls
and thrift-store furnishings that balance the romanticism
of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of an
underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance
parties, while work days are more low-key with everything
from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers,
as well as the common occurrence of some of the citys
top concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go
out of their way to try and play in. A must visit.QE-4, ul.
Ruska 51 (Pasa Niepolda), tel. (+48) 570 66 95 70, www.
bezsennoscklub.com. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 05:00. UEBX
DOMWKA
If you come on a popular night Domwka is not so much a
club, but an experience. Once youve gotten past the facecontrol, entrance, security and coat-check youll stroll into a
packed ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive
elevated dance-oor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a
bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means theres
eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices. The
tile and brick wall styling is somehow cheesy and chic at
the same time, and the coordinated light displays that
continually scan the room will leave you mesmerised on a
Friday or Saturday night. Bring your camera, your weekend
wallet, and dancing shoes, and Domwka will deliver you
to dance party paradise.QA-3, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 508
15 69 12, www.klubdomowka.pl. Open 21:00 - 04:00,
Thu 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:30. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. XW
GREY MUSIC CLUB
Wrocaws most exclusive nightclub, and well worth the
payout and pretension required to get inside, no expense
has been spared here in terms of lighting, sound and
design. Greys modern minimal space features a fantastic
glass atrium space at its centre, perfect for mingling with
the cocktail devouring eye candy all around you, while
some of the best DJs from PL and abroad annihilate the
mature crowds ability to do anything other than move
Nightlife
on the large dance oor. If youre not convinced that Poles
are the most beautiful people in the world, this place will
change your mind - if you dont lose it in an explosion of
epileptic ecstasy.QA-3, ul. w. Mikoaja 8, tel. (+48) 887
55 55 22, www.greymusicclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only
21:00 - 05:00. XW
MAANA CAFE
Reckoned by many to be the best night out in Wrocaw,
Maana is certainly reliable for a raucous weeknight raveup and well-loved by all those who live for long nights.
Dont let the lack of a proper danceoor prevent you from
doing your Travolta - spontaneous outbreaks of disco
fever are rife and encouraged. The scruy furnishings, red
lighting and cheeky photos on the wall exemplify the
balance between sexiness and silliness embodied by the
randy retro-chic clientele, and Maanas down-to-earth
attitude and funky playlist of favourites from the last 50
years make it one of the most appealing places in the city
to squander your brain cells. With the addition of a VIP room
and the opening of the large summer terrace theres now
even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocaws
lookers.QE-4, ul. w. Mikoaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 343 43
70, www.mananacafe.pl. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00
- 05:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. GB
NIETOTA
One of Wrocaws most original venues, Nietota is a
place for artsy discourse, self-destructive decadence and
debauchery. An awful lot of time has gone into the decor
with almost every surface covered in highly-illustrative
original artwork that gives the space a grotesque, creepycool nacht-cabaret atmosphere where concerts and
theatre troops take the stage between weekend DJ nights.
Completely unique in style and atmosphere, the drinks
list is also exceptional with Lindemans cherry lambic to
candy the lips of the ladies and delicious Czech Litovel on
draught. Well worth seeking out.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 50, tel. (+48) 664 00 76 10. Open 10:00 - 04:00,
Sun 16:00 - 02:00. EGW
PRIV
The scene of some of the hottest weekend parties in
Wrocaw at the moment, the newly renovated PRIV directly
collaborates with a network of clubs in London, resulting
in the regular appearance of some of the biggest names in
the UKs club scene handling the DJ decks. Of course it can
feel a bit unfriendly at the door, but once inside youll nd
an intimate club with a modern greyscale design, amazing
sound, VIP room (for up to 20 peeps), lights and eye-candy
convulsing on two dance oors - one devoted to house
music, and the other RnB.QB-3, Rynek 36/37, tel. (+48)
609 66 96 96. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 04:00. XW
Wheres the party?

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Wrocaw Sightseeing
Built upon dozens of islands, the river is never far away - nor is an eye-opening
view (see above). From ancient architecture to modish murals and Soviet-era
neons, Wrocaw has it all and more; so put that drink down and go discover all
there is to see and do in this incredible city.
Sightseeing
Of all the cities in Poland, Wrocaw possesses perhaps
the most convoluted and turbulent history of them all.
Known under dozens of dierent names as it was passed
repeatedly between four countries (and the numerous
kingdoms that preceded them), Wrocaw was one of
the most culturally and architecturally diverse cities in
Central Europe before being reduced to rubble a mere 65
years ago. As the city proudly and painstakingly rebuilt
itself, the post-war period saw a new wave of migrants
from todays western Ukraine enrich not only Wrocaws
ethnic makeup, but also its cultural wealth as many
cultural treasures from Lww were transplanted here.
Since shedding the yoke of communism in 1989 and
being rediscovered by the west, Wrocaw has rmly
established itself among Prague and Krakw as one of
Eastern Europes top tourist destinations and one of the
undisputed highlights of Poland.
WHAT TO SEE
If we think about Wrocaws city centre in terms of districts,
there are three essential areas that visitors shouldnt
allow themselves to miss. The rst is obviously the Old
Town, with the marvellously restored Market Square at
its centre and its maze of cobbled streets, canals, bridges
and church spires. Essentially bound by the Odra River
to the north and the Fosa Miejska - or city moat - to the
south, this area that was once encircled by the citys
medieval defensive walls is where youll nd the bulk of
Wrocaws historical monuments and museums, as well
as many beautiful University buildings, soaring churches,
and the citys infamous gnomes. The Old Town also
includes the District of Mutual Respect (E/F-4) - a unique
neighbourhood southwest of the market square which
includes almost side by side the places of worship of four
dierent denominations, including the citys only surviving
Jewish synagogue.
instagram.com/in_your_pocket
The Old Town may be the heart of Wrocaw, but its soul is
in Ostrw Tumski (C/D-2). This Cathedral Island within
easy walking distance northeast of the market square was
the rst part of Wrocaw to be settled by Slavic tribes in the
9th century. Since a bishopric was built there in 1000AD
it has remained an important place of royal and religious
signicance, and home to the citys most important
Cathedral.
Finally, no visit to Wrocaw is complete without a trip
east of the Old Town to Centennial Hall (I-4). The citys
only UNESCO World Heritage site, this outstanding piece
of architecture turned 100 in 2013 and is surrounded by
beautiful parks and gardens, including Wrocaws Zoo and a
spectacular multimedia fountain (see p.68 for more). Enjoy
exploring Wrocaw.
THE MALUCH
Like the Czech koda and the East German Trabant, the
Polish Maluch has served several purposes during its
lifetime; a taste of freedom for families behind the Iron
Curtain, a source of amusement for smirking foreigners,
and now as a cult icon for nostalgics. Through the
years Polish exports have won world acclaim, from
hand-painted pottery to dangerously delicious vodka,
so this imsy tin deathtrap on wheels is something of
an unlikely hero of Polish engineering. Manufactured
between 1973 and 2000 in factories in Bielsko-Biaa
and Tychy, the car was produced under the Italian
Fiat license with its ocial title being the Polish Fiat
126p. Its diminutive size earned it the moniker of
Maluch (Little One), a name so widely used that the
manufacturers ocially re-christened the brand in
1997. When the rst one rolled o the production belt
in June 1973 it was priced at 69,000z (approximately
three times the average annual wage), and became the
rst popular family car in Poland, despite being the size
of a small refrigerator. Throughout communist times
the car could only be purchased by joining a waiting
list, which at times had a backlog of several years,
though diligent workers would often be rewarded with
special vouchers allowing them to jump the queue
(naturally). By the time production came to a halt in
2000 over 3.2 million had seen action on the roads of
Poland. Today the conveyor belts may have ground to
a halt but the surprisingly reliable cars have achieved a
remarkable staying power, and youll still nd scores of
them coughing smoke as they zip around Polish cities.
Today a used Maluch in working condition will retail for
as low as 1000z (you can get one in car show condition
for under 6,000z), so theres little stopping you from
becoming a proud owner yourself.
A souped-up Polski Fiat
53
The Old Town
The market square and Town Hall
If theres room for a little wide-eyed rambling in your

schedule, youll nd no more rewarding experience than
meandering around the Old Town. While youre at it,
keep your eyes peeled for Wrocaws adorable and elusive
gnomes (p.67); there are over 300 of these little rascals
running about the city centre, but youll only spot them if
youre paying attention. Kids love them so if you want to
keep the little ones engaged as you explore the city, set
them to gnome-hunting.
The rst port of call in Wrocaw, and that which the entire
city is laid out around, is the Market Square, or Rynek
(A/B-3, p.56). This is not only the citys municipal centre,
but also the social and cultural centre of Wrocaw: a
place of happenings, concerts and performance art, lined
with terraced cafes and restaurants. Note that while the
Rynek was originally built in the 13th century, much of
what you see today is in fact a faade, quite literally. The
square was ravaged by ghting in World War II and had
to be rebuilt almost entirely in the 1950s. Though strict
attention was given to original details, particularly those of
the frontage, much of what lies behind them experienced
understandable updating (though a medieval cellar never
stops being a medieval cellar). Proudly square-shouldered
in the squares centre stands the Town Hall - a miraculous
survivor from the 13th century and the city centres dening
landmark. After exploring the three passageways packed
with shops and bars that run under the Town Hall you
should head for neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3) - known
these days as the Flower Market, and always a bright sight
thanks to the scores of ower sellers on call here twentyfour hours a day in the event of matrimonial emergency,
ready to meet the requirements of empty-sted Romeos.
From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St.
Elizabeths Church (A-3, p.56), the citys tallest. Stunning
views of the city can be had at the top, but be warned that
the climb can be crippling for those who havent seen a
Gosiek-B, istockphoto.com
Stairmaster for some time. Only a block north from there

youll nd Wrocaws smallest and most engaging street Stare Jatki (A-2, p.62) - en route to the stunning University
(B-2, p.58), whose interiors are quite frankly far too plush
for grotty students; dont move on before seeing the
University Church (yes, even the university has a church),
Aula Leopoldina - the grand Baroque ceremonial hall, or
the panoramic city views from the Mathematical Tower.
From Plac Uniwersytecki take a walk east to investigate
the Baroque majesty of the Ossolineum palace
and gardens (B-2, p.62) - home to one of the most
important libraries and national archives in the country
(and open to the public) - before dog-legging on to
Plac Nankiera (B-2). This lovely street (not plac, as youll
notice) is lined with churches and leads you straight to
Wrocaws amazing indoor marketplace, Hala Targowa
(C-2, p.79). Here you can pick-up fresh produce and
sandwich fixings for a riverside picnic, buy bargain brica-brac and satisfy whatever obscure shopping needs
you have while getting a colourful look at locals living
their colourful lives. And, of course, tasty, dirt cheap
pierogi (what, your radars not going off?).
From there, locals will not forgive you for missing out on
the Racawice Panorama (C-3, p.60), especially after all
the trouble Poland took to get it on display for you. A
140m-long canvas depicting Kociuszkos legendary (and
short-lived) victory over the Russians in 1794, this is one of
the only remaining panoramic paintings in the world - a
genre that was actually quite popular in the 19th century.
If you follow the Fosa Miejska - the remnants of the Old
Towns medieval moat - youll end up at Partisan Hill
(B/C-4, p.61), a spooky windswept ruin that once made
up part of Wrocaws defensive fortications. Follow it a bit
further and youll end up just behind the restored Royal
Palace (A-3, p.60) - Wrocaws most modern and essential
museum.
Sightseeing
GUIDED TOURS
FREE WALKING TOUR FOUNDATION
This outt oers free English-language walking tours of
the Old Town every day at 10:00, and Jewish Wrocaw every
Monday and Wednesday at 14:00, Fridays and Sundays at
17:30 (from Novermber tours run only on Mon. and Weds.
All tours leave from beside the Fredro monument on the
market square, or nearby in front of Bank Zachodni WBK
(Rynek 9/11) if the monument is obstructed; just look for
the Free Walking Tours sign and have some cash ready to
tip these ne people at the tours conclusion. Additional
tours are also available, so check their website.Qtel. (+48)
513 87 58 14, www.freewalkingtour.com.
WRATISLAVIA TOUR
This outt organises airport transfers, walking tours
and also golf cart tours of the Old Town. Tours around
Lower Silesia and out of town are also available, as are
less traditional tours and activities like shooting, laser
tag, culinary workshops, bird watching and much more.
Reservations can be made by phone or online.Qtel.
(+48) 793 15 43 30, www.wratislaviatour.com. Tours in
English, 350z.
WROCAW CITY TOURS
With over 30 dierent tours of Wrocaw and Silesia
available, these folks can arrange golf cart tours, river
cruises, whatever you want. Tours available in English,
Spanish, German, Russian and Polish starting at 219z.
Call one day in advance.Qtel. (+48) 513 94 69 46, www.
wroclawcitytour.pl.
WROCAW - SILESIA TOURS
Demonstrating Wrocaws diversity with theme tours that
trace the citys dierent cultures and religions, Wrocaw
Silesia Tours oer tours around the city in golf carts, minivans, historic trams, or on foot. They can also take you to
places a bit further aeld such as Ksi, widnica, Jelenia
Gra or Auschwitz. Tours available in English, German,
Spanish and Portuguese. Call one day in advance to
negotiate prices.Qtel. (+48) 509 96 00 34, www.
wroclawsilesiatours.pl.
Micha Filarowski - tel. +48 793 154 330
office@ wratislaviatour.com - www.wratislaviatour.com

WAIT, WHERE AM I?
Woodcut of Bressla from the Nuremburg Chronicle, 1493
As a city under constantly shifting rule, Wrocaw has

been known by many names throughout its history. In
fact, the national status of Wrocaw has changed more
often than any other city in Europe. Passing hands
from the Polish Piasts (1000-1335), to the Kingdom
of Bohemia (1335-1526), to the Austrian Habsburgs
(1526-1741), to the Kingdom of Prussia (1741-1871),
into the German Empire and Third Reich (1871-1945),
and nally back to Poland (1945-today, and hopefully
tomorrow as well), Wrocaw cannot be claimed as
the by-rights homeland of any one nation or people
(despite the past eorts of politically motivated
revisionist historians to prove otherwise. The citys
makeup has always been culturally and religiously
diverse, with Poles, Germans, Bohemians, Austrians and
Jews all making signicant contributions to Wrocaws
development. With so many inuences and upheavals,
Wrocaw (as we know it today) has seen more than
its fair share of names used in common parlance
throughout the years, including Vratislava, Wrotizla,
Wretslaw, Vraclav, Vretslav, Prezlav, Presslaw and
Bresslau (to name but a few).
Its not uncommon today to still see and hear
Wrocaw referred to by its old German name, Breslau,
particularly by and for the German nostalgia tourists
who come here to seek their roots. The Polish name
Wrocaw apparently predates the German name, and
is thought to have been derived from the name of the
Czech sovereign Vratislav. Variants of the German name
began appearing in documents shortly after Poland lost
control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim that
Frederick the Great changed the citys name to Breslau
in 1741, though this is subject to historical dispute.
The problem of Wrocaws complex titular nomenclature
was a challenge historian Norman Davies tackled when
writing his thorough history of the city; Davies eventually
settled on Microcosm as the title of his excellent book in
acknowledgement of the citys standing as a constant
crossroads for Eastern European cultures and concerns,
and the unfairness of putting such a wide-ranging study
under a title with a limited representation of its history.
And while the temptation to re-title this little tome
Microcosm In Your Pocket is ever-present, weve got
enough connotative problems as it is
55
Sightseeing
MARKET SQUARE
Patryk Michalski | dollar photo club
While youre taking in the medieval majesty of the

Wrocaws market square (Rynek), bear in mind that it
was almost totally rebuilt from a pile of ruins after the
Siege of 1945. Such was the remarkable dedication to
detail of Wrocaws pioneers - those who resettled here
from the east after WWII - that today tourists can even
admire a replica of the stone pillory (south east of the
Town Hall, B-3) used to og people from 1492 to well
into the 18th century. In the post-war period the statue
of famous writer Aleksander Fredro (seated southwest
of the Town Hall, A-3) was also brought from Lviv in 1956
to replace the statue that had previously occupied the
space up till the end of the war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm.
Wrocaws market square and much of the urban grid
around it was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was
then and remains even now one of the largest squares
of its kind in Europe, and the magnicent Town Hall
(Ratusz) at its centre is a masterpiece of medieval
architecture. Work began on the citys administrative
seat in the late 13th century and continued for 250
years, resulting in the eclectic edice covered in
decorative embellishments that we see today. Today
the beautiful ensemble contains the Museum of
Burgher Art, as well as numerous restaurants, cafes
and bars.
Ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau, the impressive
facades of the townhouses lining the market square
also deserve closer inspection, one notable exception
being the drab ten-storey oce building at Rynek 11.
Completed in 1931 the structure was designed by
Heinrich Rump and oers a glimpse of how the market
square may have looked had a ludicrous project to
modernise the historic centre come to fruition. It was
the idea of Max Berg - creator of the concrete bliss
called Centennial Hall - to demolish the buildings
surrounding the Rynek, replacing them with 20
storey concrete towers. After much deliberation city
authorities abandoned the plan, in the process saving
the Wrocaw loved by all today.QA/B-3.
CHURCHES
ST. ELIZABETHS CHURCH
Among the oldest churches in Wrocaw and the tallest
buildings in the Old Town, St. Elizabeths is unmistakable. A
church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the
current Gothic structure dates to the 14th century. This is not
the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in 1529 by
heavy hail, suered severe damage in WWII and then was the
victim of a mysterious re in 1976. Today the church serves as
a military garrison church. Inside youll nd impressive Gothic
and Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of once prominent
citizens. From April to September (weather dependent), the
highlight is the 91m tower (the original tower was 128m), but
dont underestimate the climb of over 300 steps. The view
from the top is more than worth the arduous journey and 5z.
QA-3, ul. w. Elbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38, www.
kosciolgarnizon.wroclaw.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 13:00
- 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
ST. MARY MAGDALENES CHURCH
This massive church was the second to be built on the
left bank of the Odra River, after St. Adalberts. During the
Reformation it was taken over by the Protestants and was
not returned to the Catholic Church until after WWII. Its
most striking features are the 12th-century Romanesque
portal that was moved here from the Benedictine Abbey considered to be Wrocaws most valuable relic from that era
- and the unique Penitants Bridge spanning the two soaring,
yet stunted towers whose cupolas were never replaced
after WWII. Though theres restoration work at the church,
the tower is open (11:00 - 18:00, 5z), and you can get some
thrilling views of the Old Town while traversing the open-air
bridge 46m above ground.QB-3, ul. Szewska 10, www.
mariamagdalena.wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
UNIVERSITY CHURCH
OF THE BLESSED NAME OF JESUS
This Late Baroque church has
been ranked among the most
beautiful in Central Europe,
and makes a worthwhile visit.
Built by the Jesuits as part of
the university complex in the
late 17th century on the site of
the Piast castle, a section of the
original castle structure can still
be seen in the northern sacristy
- the alcove at the far end of the
church. The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is
very well preserved and most of the furnishings are original.
Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the gures are 18thcentury depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa,
Asia and Europe. Visitors are even given an audioguide
which is available in seven dierent languages. Donations
suggested, but not required.QB-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel.
(+48) 71 344 94 23, www.uniwersytecki.archidiecezja.
wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 15:00 and by prior arrangement.
Sightseeing
MONUMENTS
MONUMENT TO THE VICTIMS
OF THE KATY MASSACRE
Anyone who has an unindoctrinated knowledge of World
War II history or who has
spent more than 15 minutes
in Poland, is probably familiar
with the subject of this memorial which remembers the
22,000 Polish military ocers,
policemen, intelligentsia and
POWs murdered by the NKVD
on Stalins orders in 1940.
Designed by Warsaw sculptor Tadeusz Tchrzewski, the
striking monument depicts the sword-wielding Angel of
Death on a high pedestal over the gure of Katy Pieta - the
Matron of the Homeland despairing over the body of a murdered prisoner of war. Symbolic granite walls/graves ank
the scene, with the names of the POW camps and places of
mass murder inscribed on them. Anguished, terrifying and
gruesome in turn, with detail down to the bullethole in the
back of the fallen ocers head, this evocative monument
was unveiled in 1999 and can be found in the park next to
the Racawice Panorama.QD-3, Sowacki Park.
THE ANONYMOUS PEDESTRIANS
When youre tired of gazing at Wrocaws multitude of
cherubs, gargoyles and bearded national heroes clutching
important pens and looking frightfully serious, hike on
down to this intersection to have a look at an entirely
dierent take on public art. The wonderfully lifelike bronze
statues descending into the earth are a memorial to the
introduction of martial law on December 13, 1981, and the
hordes of people who disappeared (went underground)
in the middle of the night courtesy of the militia. The work
of Jerzy Kalina, the 14 statues were erected here in the
middle of the night in 2005 on the 24th anniversary of the
introduction of martial law, though the prophetic moulds
were actually made several years before the events they
commemorate.QA-5, Corner of ul. Pisudskiego and ul.
widnicka.
THE NAKED SWORDSMAN
The University of Wrocaw presents plenty of superb
photographic opportunities, but the most popular has to
be the naked swordsman proudly exhibiting himself at the
entrance of the main building. The work of Hugo Lederer,
the splendidly anatomical sculpture was erected in 1904
and prompted complaints from parish priests that students
would be morally corrupted by the statues naked form.
Early grumblings were countered by the legend that the
statue represents an extravagant gambler who squandered
all but his sword in drunken card games - thus serving as an
example to the universitys 30,000+ students. Town mayor
George Bender agreed and the statue has stood ever since.
QB-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki.
TOURIST INFORMATION
INFOWRO JATKI WROCAW
QA-2, ul. Jatki 24, tel. (+48) 71 344 41 16. Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. From November
09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
LOWER SILESIAN CULTURAL INFORMATION
CENTRE
QA-3, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,
www.dcik.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
TOURIST INFORMATION
QA-3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71 344 31 11, www.
wroclaw-info.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. W
SKY TOWER
Completed in 2012,
Wrocaw boasts the tallest building in Poland,
which rises some 212m
into the atmosphere.
Comprising a small city
in and of itself, with residential apartments, ofces, shops, restaurants,
entertainment and more
over its 50 oors, tourists
have plenty of reasons to
visit this modern architectural marvel, including the largest pool hall
in PL, a 24-lane bowling
alley (see Leisure), an
over-sized Salvador Dali sculpture, and an amazing interactive installation of 60 screens that react
to the movement of visitors as they engage the
40m2 exhibit on the first floor (note though that
this isnt always running). The highlight, however, is
the year-round indoor viewing point on the 49th
floor. At a height of 200 metres, this is the highest
panoramic view point in Poland, and accessed by
an elevator which whisks you to the top in less than
a minute. Located only minutes from the Old Town,
take trams 7 or 20, getting off at Wielka.QE-6, ul.
Powstacw lskich 95, www.galeria.skytower.
pl. View point open Mon-Thu 09:00 - 20:30, FriSat 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Access is
granted every 30mins on the :00 and :30 marks.
View point admission Mon-Fri 11/6z, Sat-Sun
15/8z; children 3 and under free. Ticket office
on level +1; clearly marked signs will guide you
there. N
57
Sightseeing
WROCAW UNIVERSITY
Pawe Mruk | dollar photo club
Founded by the Jesuits in 1670, the magnicent Baroque

main building of Wrocaw University and the adjacent
Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus (see Churches)
were built on the former site of a derelict Piast castle
after a land grant from Emperor Leopold. In 1811, Prussia
secularised all church property and took over administration
of the university. The dying days of WWII saw the university
library turned into a makeshift HQ for the occupying Nazis,
and at the wars end the German faculty were all but
exiled, with the replacement professors arriving from the
University of Lww forming the rst Polish faculty to teach
here. The University still functions as an academic building,
and past professors include Alois Alzheimer (the man who
gave his name to the disease) and Robert Bunsen (who
didnt invent the Bunsen burner but improved it to such a
degree that it was named in his honour). Since the start of
the 20th century, the university has produced a remarkable
9 Nobel Prize winners and today over 40,000 students are
enrolled with 9,000 graduating each year.
Despite its ongoing function as an academic institution,
the main university building is open to tourists. Three
tickets are available, giving you access to 2, 3 or 4
university rooms, and all of the rooms are now equipped
with free audioguides in English, Polish, German, Russian,
Spanish and Italian. We recommend you splash out for all
four to avoid any later confusion and consternation. Be
aware, however, that the areas accessible to tourists are
laid out over four oors and there is no elevator.
The rst of the University Museums two main highlights is
undoubtedly Aula Leopoldina. In true Baroque style, the
ceremonial hall is a virtual explosion of cherubs and swag.
The painting on the ceiling depicts the apotheosis of Gods
wisdom. The portraits ringing the walls depict the founding
fathers of the University; some years ago four of them were
stolen and two have yet to be returned. Winding upstairs
past the odd exhibition and a line in the oor demarcating
the 51st parallel - which runs right through the building
- your visit to the museum ends on the terrace of the
universitys Mathematical Tower which aords great
photo opportunities and panoramic views of the Old Town
and Odra River.QB-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 375
26 18, www.muzeum.uni.wroc.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:30.
Closed Wed. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Durion lectures and certain special events the Aula
Leopoldina is also closed to visitors. Admission 10-12/68z depending on how many rooms you wish to visit. N
MUSEUMS
ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
Like all the best museums in Poland, Wrocaws
Archaeological Museum is located inside a building
thats a museum in itself. In this instance the citys former
15th-century Arsenal plays host to the usual suspects
found lurking in most museums of its type. There are
English captions now for many exhibits, while others,
such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched
house fascinate without the need to know more. With
four free permanent exhibits - Stone Age and early
Bronze Age, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Medieval Silesia,
displays include everyday objects from these times such
as weapons, ornaments and tools; note that temporary
exhibits sometimes require an additional paid ticket. In
the same building youll also find the Military Museum.
QA-2, ul. Cieszyskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96,
www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent
exhibits. U
ARCHITECTURE MUSEUM
Located inside a gorgeous 16th century monastery,
the citys architecture museum is actually more of a
decorative and applied arts museum, with much of
the collections consisting of decorative details from
the built environment that were lost during WWII.
Permanent displays include beautiful examples of
stained glass from the 12th century to the Art Nouveau
era, a collection of tiled ceramic stoves, intricate door
handles, a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles, and a
large model of the city as it was in 1740, which clearly
shows its status as a fortress surrounded by water.
Keeps your eyes peeled for occasional temporary
exhibits as well, which usually require an admission fee.
QC-3, ul. Bernardyska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78,
www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free
for permanent exhibits. U
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
Located outside the Old Town in the gorgeous 18thcentury Neo-Baroque summer palace of Wrocaws
bishops, this under-appreciated museum traces Silesian
folk culture and customs. The best part may be the top
oor where life-sized dolls are arranged in quaint scenes
of life in the region before 1945. It wont take you long
to see it, but the national costumes and farm equipment
oer a glimpse of life you wont nd in urban Wrocaw.
And the museums strange fondness for the denite
article in the English labels is worth a giggle. To get there
take tram 3 from Rynek, getting o at Pl. Zgody.QH-5,
ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, www.
muzeumetnograficzne.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3z, children
under 7 free, groups of over 10 pay 2z per person,
Sat free. Admission free with a ticket to the Racawice
Panorama. UN
Sightseeing
MILITARY MUSEUM
The other half of the 15thcentury arsenal that houses
the Archaeology Museum
is, appropriately, the Military
Museum. Not surprisingly,
the medieval halls are lled
with arms and weapons
of all sorts, many of them
dating to the 18th century. Helmets, swords and guns are
the forte here, and you probably know better than we do
if its worth the hour of your time itll consume. Note that
temporary exhibits sometimes require a paid ticket.QA-2,
ul. Cieszyskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw.
pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibit. N
NATIONAL MUSEUM
Wrocaws National Museum houses one of the largest
collections of Polish art. Before the 18th century this means
almost exclusively religious art: altarpieces, urns for relics,
busts of saints and the like. Later parts of the collection
also include applied arts and quite a few pieces on national
themes (uprisings and saints gure heavily in Polish history).
By far the most interesting bit is the 20th-century collection.
Innovative installation artists like Magdalena Abakanowicz
and Jzef Szajna make this an exciting period in Polish art.
QD-3, Pl. Powstacw Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51
50, www.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue (except the last Tue of the month).
From mid-October open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission 15/10z, students under 26 (with ID) 1z,
children under 7 free, Sat free for permanent exhibitions,
groups of over 10 people 5z per person. Admission free
with a ticket from the nearby Racawice Panorama. U
POST & COMMUNICATIONS MUSEUM
Housed inside 1929s former Central Post Oce, this magnicent
building was one of the rst high-rises in Wrocaw and is
easily recognisable from the Old Town thanks to the crown of
satellite dishes on its roof. Today it houses one of the citys most
idiosyncratic and fascinating museums, displaying the complex
history of Polands postal service and the development of
communications technology from the 16th century to the
present day. Over two oors youll see a wealth of paintings and
graphics, postage stamps, mailboxes, mail carriages, uniforms,
decorative letter scales and other instruments including early
telegram machines, telephones, radios and computers. The
unique and engrossing experience even includes information
in English and is a great way to change your attitude towards
PLs postal service from one of frustration to admiration and
wonder. Visiting takes about 1 hour and is recommended.
English language guided group tours are available if arranged
in advance.QC-3, ul. Krasiskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 65,
www.muzeum.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00, Wed 10:00
- 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission 8/6z, Sun
free, Weds 15:00 - 17:00 2z; family ticket 15z. Groups over
10 people 5z per person. N
FEEL THE HISTORY!
See how Wroclaw fought against communism.

Ask about the possibility of seeing the hidden room!
KONSPIRA - CAFE RESTAURANT CLUB

Pl. Solny 11, Wrocaw | konspira.org
KONSPIRA
In addition to being a fantastically
cheap Polish restaurant, Konspira
is a self-declared Centre for
Historical Education. The interior
is designed to emulate the 1980s,
while giving guests a glimpse into
the Soviet era via newspapers,
posters, political cartoons and
other iconography on the walls. None of this would
be particularly useful to naive non-Polish speakers,
but Konspira has another rabbit in its hat thats
worth revealing. One of the restaurants wardrobes is
actually a secret passageway into a hidden room that
recreates an 80s Polish apartment, lled with everyday
household items, toys, appliances, and even police
batons and riot gear from the martial law days. Its a
unique look into the past, and the fact that the sta
isnt that forthcoming about it (you might have to ask)
almost makes the act of entry feel cooly clandestine.
This entire establishment is a bit of a museum, and
though youll get more out of it with a local guide,
even without one its worth investigating; and the food
is certainly worth staying for.QA-3, Pl. Solny 11, tel.
(+48) 796 32 66 00, www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
59
Sightseeing
RACAWICE PANORAMA
This unique 15 by 140m panoramic painting depicts
the rst battle of the Kociuszko Uprising, in which
General Tadeusz Kociuszko orchestrated and led an
armed peasant rebellion against Russian rule in a heroic
bid for Polish independence in 1794. Kosciuszkos
rag-tag scythe-wielding troops won the day, but the
Uprising was ultimately doomed and Poland wouldnt
be truly self-governing until the 20th century. That
hasnt stopped the short-lived victory from being an
enduring source of Polish pride to this day, however.
The Panorama was created in a burst of patriotic fervour
by Jan Styka and Wojciech Kossak in Lww over 9
months, and completed in 1894. Their work, displayed
in a rotunda built especially for it, was a popular and nancial - success. After WWII, the Soviet Union,
which absorbed Lww (now Lviv, Ukraine), sent the
painting to Wrocaw. Its subject, however, was a bit too
nationalistic for the local Communist authorities, who
rejected several bids to display it. The current building
was completed in 1967, but the Panorama itself was
not installed for display until 1985. Unfortunately
almost nothing has changed since then, and the overpriced attraction is run in the same manner it was 30
years ago. Still, an unbelievable 1,600 people (including
dozens of school groups) le through each day, so
dont expect to just walk right in; admission occurs
every half-hour and youll very likely have to wait. The
painting is augmented with lights and articial terrain
to make the experience more real as you are narrated
through the battle by a taped lecture on your own
private headset which is available in an astounding 17
languages (including Esperanto). Poles will consider it
their patriotic duty to come here, but the experience
may resonate less positively with other tourists, unless
youre a fan of obscure and forgotten genres of 19th
century art.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344
23 44, www.panoramaraclawicka.pl. Open 09:00
- 17:00. Admission 25/18z, family ticket 18z per
person, children under 7 free. U
Detail of Kociuszko directing his rag-tag army.
THE ROYAL PALACE, HISTORY MUSEUM
The main branch of the Wrocaw City Museum, housed

inside the renovated Baroque Royal Palace, is Wrocaws
most modern, most essential, and, quite frankly, best
museum. Purchased by Frederick the Great of Prussia
in 1750, the palace was converted to become the royal
residence of the Prussian Hohenzolern kings - a function
which it served from the 17th to 20th century. Badly
damaged during WWII, only half of the structure survived
and now houses four free permanent exhibitions: 1000
Years of Wrocaw, tracing the complex history of the
Lower Silesian capital from the Middle Ages to the
modern day through its art and artefacts; The Gallery
of Art in Wrocaw; the meticulous recreated royal
apartments; and the unique Beyersdorf Room, decorated
entirely in Dutch tiles from the 17th century. It takes the
better part of a day to see it all, but theres a nice cafe
when you need a break, and make sure you dont miss
the regal Baroque gardens behind the palace.QA-3,
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35, tel. (+48) 71 391 69 40,
www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free. English-speaking guided
tour 400z. Audio guides in English and German 10 z.
U
TOWN HALL, MUSEUM OF BURGHER ART
The rst thing youll probably notice about the Town Hall
(Ratusz) is that it seems to be patched together from bits
and pieces of a dozen dierent buildings, and in many ways
it was. Construction began at the end of the 13th century
and continued - through all the changing political and
artistic forces - for about 250 years. The Town Hall was the
centre of city life up until the early 20th century, housing
the Town Council, merchants stalls and (most importantly?)
a beer cellar. The building escaped relatively unscathed
after World War II (an estimated 10% was damaged). After
reconstruction work, it was re-opened as the Museum of
Burgher Art (Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczaskiej). Inside you
can see the remarkable Gothic interiors, a collection of
silver and other city artefacts. Unfortunately these exhibits
are poorly marked and nding your way around can be a
bit of a stab in the dark. For us, the most fun part of the
Town Hall is exploring the elaborate exterior decoration;
see if you can nd scenes from Aesops fables, or grotesque
scenes of medieval pub life.QA-3, Rynek, tel. (+48) 71
347 16 90, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent
exhibits. U
Sightseeing
WROCAW CONTEMPORARY MUSEUM
This old air raid shelter just west of the Old Town has been
resurrected as a place for contemporary art in Wrocaw. The
round and concrete above-ground bunker has been cleverly
adapted with an elevator at its centre which whizzes you up to
the fantastic 6th oor cafe, which features a terrace and great
views, and may just be the highlight of visiting here. As for the
art, the permanent exhibit focuses on contemporary art from
the 20th Century with a strong Wrocaw presence and they
have numerous temporary exhibitions (see our Culture & Events
section to see whats on). The most striking pieces in the whole
collection are outside the museum itself. Local artist Stanisaw
Drds Hour-glass on the facade of the building and the
amazing and enormous Train to Heaven sculpture of a vertical
locomotive nearby will make you get your camera out. To get
there, hop on trams 3, 10, 20, 23, or 33 (quite a bit of choice there)
at the Rynek stop, getting o 3 stops later at Pl. Strzegomski.
Keep in mind that this is only a temporary location - a new
museum headquarters is set to spring up on ul. Purkyniego, near
the Racawice Panorama, the Museum of Architecture, and the
Academy of Fine Arts.QPl. Strzegomski 2a (Fabryczna), tel.
(+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open
12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free
for permanent exhibit; temporary exhibits 10/5z, family
ticket 15z, Thu admission free. U
PLACES OF INTEREST
BASZTA NIEDWIADKA (BEAR TOWER)
One of the only surviving fragments of the medieval defensive
walls that once circled Wrocaws Old Town, this obscure tower
hidden right in the centre was rst built in the 13th century
to protect the city from Mongrel mayhem, acquiring the
basic appearance it retains today a century later. As Wrocaw
expanded, Niedwiadek Tower quickly lost its military
importance and became hemmed in by residential buildings
- the close proximity of which spared it from being razed
along with the rest of the citys fortications under Napoleons
orders in 1807. 75% destroyed during Festung Breslau, the
historic tower and its surviving stretch of wall were rebuilt
during restoration works in the 1950s and it was then that the
weathered stone sculpture of a bear (though historians tend
to believe its a lion) discovered near ul. aciarska was placed in
the towers south-east corner, thus giving the tower its name.
Today the interior of the tower hosts Baszta - a hip hangout
for coee, beer, and cheap veggie eats. To nd it look in the
courtyard just south of Hala Targowa between ul. Piaskowa
and ul. Kraiskiego.QC-3, ul. Kraiskiego 14.
PARTISAN HILL
If youre walking along ul. Ks. Skargi its impossible to miss
the grandiose crescent-shaped structure rising above Most
Skargi. One of the few remaining ancient fortications that
once protected the Old Town from invasion, Partisan Hill was
built between 1594 and 1598, and originally awarded the
name Bastion Sakwowy (Saddlebag Bastion). The buildings
you see today date from the 19th century, however, when
the area was redeveloped as public recreational space. A
fearsome tower designed by Berlin architect Carl Schmidt
STREET ART
Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art

(check out Wrocaws Polish Poster Gallery at ul.
w. Mikoaja 54/55, E-4, if you want proof ), but when
it comes to public street grati, too often it steers
closer to vandalism, rarely graduating beyond slurs,
gang signs and football allegiances. Thanks to a strong
underground art community, however, visitors to
Wrocaw will encounter plenty of urban space that has
been elaborately decorated with street art that strives
to be just that: art. In fact, thanks to its own initiative
of embracing rather than rejecting the trend, Wrocaw
has made itself a veritable destination for large-scale
street art. Today the city is decorated with dozens of
highly visible murals in public space, and with that
number growing all the time, urban art has emerged
as a legitimate attraction in the city.
Formerly a strictly underground art form, things started
to change in 2008 when the curators of the citys
vanguard Galeria Awangarda organised Polands rst
street art festival (dubbed Out of Sth) by inviting 20 of
Europes biggest names in urban art to do installations
throughout Wrocaw. A year later cult culture hangout
Niskie ki helped organise the rst Pink Piknik
Festival, lling the entire courtyard between ul. Ruska
and ul. w. Antoniego (E-4) with colourful art. Further
editions of Out of Sth followed in 2010 and 2012, and
with Wrocaw University and the city itself (as part
of its European Capital of Culture 2016 programme)
also contributing commissions, Wrocaw has strongly
secured its status as Polands street art capital.
Those with an interest in street art will have no problem
tracking down some of the citys nest examples and
were making it even easier. In the maps of our print
guide youll nd many of Wrocaws most visible murals
marked with spray paint can icon
so you can
literally use them to give yourself a self-guided tour of
the citys mural art. We encourage you to do just that
and check out some of Wrocaws alternative artistic
visions.
61
Sightseeing
NEON WROCAW
Communist Poland typically calls to mind a cold, colourless

landscape of uniform concrete drabness - essentially the
antithesis of energetic and illuminated Times Square
or Las Vegas, the very pinnacles of capitalist decadence
and indecency. The little known irony here, however,
is that neon signage - which is most closely associated
with American commercialism and consumerism - was
actually prolic in the Peoples Republic of Poland during
the Cold War era. After Socialist Realism died with Stalin
in the late 50s, a new, less restricted period of creative
expression began in Poland, and neon rather oddly
became the favoured medium of city authorities looking
for an inexpensive way to brighten the grey urban
landscape and create a veneer of economic prosperity at
a time when stores shelves were practically bare. During
the neonisation programme of the 1960s and 70s, the
countrys most gifted architects and graphic designers
were commissioned to create unique neon advertising
for everything from Polish products and state-run
companies to cultural landmarks like cinemas, theatres,
nightclubs and train stations. Vibrant, stylish and often
incredibly creative neon signs were an integral part of the
urban landscape of communist Poland.
Though the collapse of the communist economy meant
the plug got pulled on the countrys neons back in the late
70s, today neon is back in vogue and the countrys signs
are being restored. Wrocaw is still home to some of PLs
most iconic and most photographed neon signs. Neon
greets visitors immediately upon arrival throughout the
Wrocaw train station (B-6), and the famous Dobry
Wieczr we Wrocawiu (Good Evening in Wrocaw)
sign across the street is there to welcome you as soon
as you step foot outside (B-5). Other famous Soviet-era
neons include the entrance gate of the Wrocaw Zoo
(I-4) and the animated antics of the burglar atop the PZU
building on Plac Kociuszki (A-4), while the modern,
hand-scripted sign of the Academy of Fine Arts (ul.
Traugutta 19/21, C-4) encapsulates the comeback this
art form has made in recent years. The opening of Neon
Side Club & Gallery (E-4, p.46) now gives visitors the
opportunity to admire dozens of salvaged neon signs
all in one place, while directly connecting neon to local
hipster culture. On our website youll nd all of Wrocaws
most electrifying neons listed with GPS coordinates
so you can use the mobile version of our website
(m.wroclaw.inyourpocket.com) on your smartphone
to easily go out and get your ne-on.
was added in 1867, though this was demolished during

WWII to prevent advancing Russian troops from using it as a
reference point for artillery shelling. At the start of the Siege
of 1945 the subterranean bunkers and catacombs were
used as HQ by Nazi high command, though they relocated
in March 1945 as the Red Army drew closer. After the war
the hillock was oddly re-christened Partisan Hill and the old
cellars temporarily housed a museum. Sadly sold to private
investors in the 1990s, and having since been occupied by
beer gardens, strip clubs and restaurants, today the area lies
in complete disarray, forlorn and forgotten - a once gleaming
construction littered with smashed bottles and spray can
squiggles. At the moment a fence feebly attempts to cordon
o the crumbling arcades, while two bars keep parts of this
complex accessible to the public - Wicars Pub in the cellars,
and Colloseum Jazz Club in the old observatory at the top.
Partisan Hills legends of Nazi tunnels and medieval torture
chambers, combined with the creepy, wind-swept loneliness
of the site today, make this place a must for those who enjoy
the thrill of urban trespassing.QB-4, ul. Ks. Skargi.
STARE JATKI
stepmar, Dollar Photo Club
One of Wrocaws most engaging streets, ul. Jatki is no more

than one city block long, connecting ul. Kiebanicza with ul.
Odrzaska. Its picturesque charm is no doubt due to the fact
that it has retained its medieval character throughout the ages;
though most of the structures on Stare Jatki date from the
17th and 18th centuries, the line of low level buildings were
constructed on medieval foundations and some elements
from the 13th century are still visible on the south side of the
street. Though in past times the principal industry here was
meat - butchered beasts lled the wooden stalls, today the
alleyway is home to numerous artists studios and souvenir
stalls. The dening feature of Stare Jatki is the collection of
cast iron farm animals at the start of the street. Sculpted by
Piotr Wieczorek and erected in the 1990s this Memorial to
Slaughtered Animals was funded by the local government,
and in addition to being one of Wrocaws most photographed
attractions, also serves as an obstacle course for party casualties
pouring out of Klub Na Jatkach.QA-2, ul. Jatki.
THE OSSOLINEUM
This stunning Baroque palace complex on the Odra riverbank
was rebuilt to its late 17th century designs after being
damaged heavily during WWII and is today one of the most
outstanding works of Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a
hospital and convent, later a college, today the magnicent
Sightseeing
grounds are home to the Ossolineum Library - an important
research centre and national archive, the countrys oldest
still-running publishing centre and one of its largest library
collections. Established in 1817 by Jzef Maksymilian Ossoliski
when he began collecting Polish manuscripts and cultural
documents in his Vienna at, recognising their importance to
national culture after Poland was wiped from the world map,
Ossoliskis private library became a national institute and
was eventually moved to Lviv where it expanded generously.
After post-war border changes the collection was moved
to Wrocaw, however communist authorities conscated
over 80% of it which presumably remains in Lviv today. The
collections of the Ossolineum are some of the most valuable
in the country and include manuscripts by Polish bards Adam
Mickiewicz and Juliusz Sowacki, writings by Copernicus, and
drawings by Rembrandt and Durer. The site of regular free
exhibitions, the Ossolineum is otherwise worth a look around
for the building itself, with the library and inner and outer
courtyards all accessible to the public.QB-2, ul. Szewska 37,
tel. (+48) 71 344 44 71, www.ossolineum.pl. Open 08:00 15:00; Mon, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From October
open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
WATER TOWER
Modelled on a medieval castle,
this architectural masterpiece
only a short tram ride south
of the centre shouldnt be
missed. Originally designed by
Karl Klimm, an eminent Breslau
architect and the brains
behind the Zwierzyniecki
Bridge (J-4), the 63m tower
was completed in 1905 and
supplied water to the residents
of southern Wrocaw, with the
base of the building used to
house employees. From its
beginnings this fairytale tower was equipped with an electric
lift to whisk visitors to the top for panoramic views; costing
10 pfennigs, a clear day would aord sightseers uninterrupted
views of the Sudety Mountains 100kms away, and a red ag
would wave from the top whenever viewing was deemed
particularly good. The sculptors Taschner and Bednorz
added several intricate carvings to the sandstone, including
medieval style bas reliefs depicting winged beasts engaged
in gruesome scenes, and a spectacular fountain spouting
water from the underground spring below the building.
During the 1945 Siege of Breslau the tower served as a
military observation point, and in spite of heavy shelling in the
immediate vicinity survived largely unscathed. Up until the
80s it continued to function as a water plant, though black
with soot and pockmarked with bullet holes. In 1995 it was
purchased by Stephan Elektronik Investment and restored it
to its former glory. Unfortunately theres no viewing platform
at the top today, but if you make the trip you can dine inside
at the Wiea Cinie bistro and restaurant. To get there hop
on tram numbers 2, 6 or 7, getting o at the Pl. Powstacw
lskich stop.QE-7, ul. Sudecka 125a.
WROCAW IYP ONLINE

Due to space restrictions in our print guide, were
actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent
content we have on Wrocaw and the surrounding
region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website
- poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much
of the country we cover, and to download guides to
Warsaw, Krakw, Gdask, Pozna, Katowice and
other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small
sampling of great Wrocaw-related content we didnt
have room for this issue, with links to where youll nd
it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!
GROSSROSEN
Located 65km from Wrocaw,
the small village of GrossRosen (today Rogonice) was
the site of one of the largest
concentration camps in the
Third Reich, famous even
then for its harsh conditions
and high mortality rate.
Today the site is a museum and memorial to the
victims; learn more here:
iyp.me/grossrosen
THE BEER WAR OF 1380
In the citys early Bohemian days, a quibble between
the Church and City Council over beer sales blew up
into a Chicago gangland-style turf war, with absurd
and disastrous results: Ostrw Tumski burned,
the mayor was lynched, and beheadings were
rife. Learn the bizarre and fascinating story of the
Vretslav Beer War:
iyp.me/beerwar
THE RED BARON
Born in Breslau/Wrocaw,
Manfred von Richthofen
was the top ghter pilot in
the aerial dogghts of The
Great War. A legend in his
own time, he was awarded
Germanys greatest military
honour after his 16th kill
en route to upwards of 75, and his death remains
controversial. Learn more in our feature:
iyp.me/redbaron
FESTUNG BRESLAU
In 1944 Hitler declared Breslau a closed military fortress
to be defended from the advancing Soviet army at
all costs. The ensuing siege lasted for 80 days, cost
thousands of lives and left the city a smouldering heap
of ruins. IYP tells the full story, including where to see
traces of wartime Breslau in Wrocaw today:
iyp.me/festungbreslau
63
Ostrw Tumski
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Playing soul to the Ryneks heart, Ostrw Tumski is the gem

at the centre of Wrocaws crown. This, after all, is where
the city began, making it one of the most historically
signicant parts of town, in addition to its most archaically
picturesque. The districts history has always been closely
tied to Catholicism and today youll nd an incredible
concentration of religious buildings across the river, making
it an incredibly peaceful place to explore and relax.
During the latter part of the 9th century what is now known
as Ostrw Tumski (the name means Cathedral Island in
Polish) was settled by a Slavic tribe, the leanie, who
considered the island impregnable. The rst bishopric in
Lower Silesia soon followed in 1000, and for the next two and
a half centuries Ostrw Tumski was the centre of Wrocaw
before the marauding Tartars proved they could indeed
make it pregnant (so to speak); pregnant with re and ruin,
that is. After its destruction, the citys nucleus shifted across
the river where its development would be less restricted by
rivers. Ostrw Tumski, meanwhile, became a place of almost
exclusively religious and royal (the Piast Dynasty built a
castle here in the 1260s) signicance. With a few exceptions
it remains primarily a place of worship and reection to this
day; as such, there are few shops, dwellings, cafes, bars and
restaurants, and the Wrocaw Archdiocese occupies almost all
of the beautifully maintained classical buildings you will see.
One of the rst things observant visitors may notice is that
though Ostrw Tumski is indeed accessed from central
Wrocaw by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until
the 19th century, but persistent ooding led town planners
to ll in one of the Odras tributaries in 1810 (though the
city has sadly seen its share of oods since then as well).
Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek, perhaps the real
joy of Ostrw Tumski is its other-worldly feel. Katedralna and
Idziego Streets both provide cobbled reminders of the past Idziego especially, though it lacks the postcard worthy sights
of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous street, still lit today
by original gas lamps and providing the perfect frame for a
picturesque, romantic evening stroll. Keep your eyes peeled
at dusk for the districts famous lamplighter as he goes about
his daily duty of lighting Ostw Tumskis gas lamps by hand.
WHAT TO SEE
A visit to this lovely, peaceful part of Wrocaw rightly begins
at Most Piaskowy (Sand Bridge, C-2). This is the oldest
bridge in Wrocaw, built in 1861 and an engineering marvel,
if no great shakes on the design front. The original bridge,
built back in the 11th century, was part of the ancient trade
route - the Amber Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to
Vienna, and thence to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi
you will pass the Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and
Methodius, the Baroque-era University Library, and the
Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous
for its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern
nave. From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski
(Tumski Bridge, C-2) leads you across to the oldest part of
the city; look out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig),
Silesias patron saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocaws
patron, at the head of the bridge. Also of note are the
padlocks placed on the bridge by newlyweds to symbolise
the unbreakable bond they share going forward in life
together.
Ostrw Tumski
Following ul. Katedralna from there youll nd the beautiful
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, famous for its
stunning stained glass windows and for its 16th century
altarpiece. To the right of the Cathedrals main portal is the
Archbishops Palace, now the Archdiocese Museum (the
Archbishop lives elsewhere these days). Not to be missed
either is the Church of the Holy Cross, a rare two-level
church with two separate parishes. For those looking for a
sanctuary thats not full of cadavers on crosses, head north
to the citys Botanical Gardens - one of the nest, most
picturesque, and sadly overlooked, places for spending
time in Wrocaw.
THE LAMPLIGHTER
CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL

Crossing Tumski Bridge from Wyspa Piasek (Sand Island),
this is the rst church youll encounter on Ostrw Tumski.
Original construction of this Gothic brick church took nearly
50 years between 1404 and 1452, only to see it destroyed
by two res, rebuilt, and then 40% obliterated during
Festung Breslau. Reconstructed in the 1950s, the accuracy
of the interior has since been disputed. Though youll nd
the front doors open in the summer, you wont get past
the inner gates to see the church in detail, and generally
it is closed to the public.QC-2, ul. Katedralna, tel. (+48)
71 327 13 33.
ST. MARTINS CHURCH
This tiny and somewhat irregularly shaped brick church is
all that remains of the Piast dynastys 13th-century Royal
Castle, which once stood on the island. St. Martins too,
however, was largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries.
Before WWII the church was a centre of Polish culture in a
primarily German city. Poles gathered here to hear sermons
and sing hymns in their own language. The last Polish mass
under Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. A plaque
outside reads in part, We are Poles... A Pole is a brother to a
Pole... Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly of our
mother. Outside St. Martins stands a massive monument
to Pope John Paul II, placed here in 1986.QC-2, ul. w.
Marcina. Open only during mass (Sundays at 10:00).
CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS /
ST. BARTHOLOMEWS
One of Ostrw Tumskis most beautiful and iconic structures,
thanks to a 70m steeple and impressive entry staircase, this
curious sanctuary is actually two churches in one. Split over
two levels, the building comprises the shorter windows
of the Church of St. Bartholomew beneath the soaring
windows of the upper level Church of the Holy Cross. The
rst two-storey church in Silesia, and one of only a few in all
of Europe, the church was completed in 1295 as an act of
reconciliation ending a long dispute between Duke Henry
IV and Bishop Thomas II. For centuries the sarcophagus
of Henry IV was housed in the upper Church of the Holy
Cross, however today it can be seen on display in the
National Museum. Standing outside the church is a large
sculpture of John of Nepomuk dating from 1732.QC-2,
Plac Kocielny, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74. Currently closed
to the public for renovations.
Lamplighter has to be one of the worlds most

charmingly antiquated, unique and romantic
occupations, right up there with town crier, court jester,
lighthouse keeper, castle drawbridge operator and
well, IYP editor, of course. Up until and even throughout
the 19th century, when candle or gas streetlamps were
still the norm, lamplighter was a prolic and wellrespected job. In those pre-Edison days it was the
lamplighters job to go around town at dusk igniting a
citys streetlamps, and then extinguishing them again
at dawn; while on patrol, the lamplighter often served a
dual role as town watchman. Today having a degree in
lamplighting wont do much for your CV; in fact, to our
knowledge, Wrocaw is one of only two cities in Europe
that still employs a lamplighter (the other being Brest,
Belarus). The rst gas lantern was lit in Wrocaw in 1846
and gas streetlamps were common throughout the city
even after the war and up until the 1960s when they
were replaced in the Old Town. Fortunately those on
Ostrw Tumski Wrocaws Cathedral Island survived
modernisation and the tradition of the Wrocaw
lamplighter is carried on to this day. 365 days a year this
gentleman can be seen at dusk in his unique cape and
top hat lighting the 103 gas lamps in the district. With
a butane cartridge discreetly hidden under his cloak,
the lamplighter uses a pole to ignite the lamps and a
hook attachment to extinguish them each morning.
Catching him in the jolly act is not only easy to do if
youre exploring the area in the evening, but also a
prerequisite for camera-wielding tourists.
65
Ostrw Tumski
CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST
One of Wrocaws most enduring icons, the elegant doublespires of this Gothic building stands like a sentinels at the
end of ul. Katedralna, and its elaborate portal one of the
most valuable medieval artefacts in Wrocaw. What we see
today is in fact the fourth church to be built on this site. When
construction began in 1244, this was the rst brick building in
Poland. Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued
for ve more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic
interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522, showing
the Virgin Mary having a nap. Youll also see the largest organ
in Poland, which prior to the war was also the largest in the
world. The real highlight of the Cathedral, however, is the
panoramic view from one of its towers, which can be yours
for 5z during the warm months (weather dependent); unlike
the arduous climbs required for Wrocaws other church
towers, here an elevator takes you to the top where youll
nd a small exhibition in addition to the wonderful views.
QD-2, Pl. Katedralny 18, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.
katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 09:45 - 17:30, Sun
14:00 - 16:00, No visiting during mass please.
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
efektstudio80, Dollar Photo Club
POLISH VENICE?
Built upon twelve islands the city of Wrocaw is
surrounded by rivers and canals. No-one seems to agree
on an exact number, but youll nd approximately 130
bridges within the city boundaries, a gure that only
four other European cities can beat (Hamburg, Venice,
Amsterdam and St. Petersburg).
Though not Wrocaws most beautiful bridge
(that honour arguably goes to Most Tumski - the
pedestrianised, padlock-covered bridge leading into
Ostrw Tumski, C-2), the daddy of them all has to be
Most Grunwaldzki (H-3) - Polands longest suspension
bridge at 112 metres. Completed in 1910 and opened
by Emperor Wilhelm II himself, according to local legend
the chief engineer committed suicide on the eve of its
unveiling, convinced that the structure would collapse.
View from the tower of Wrocaw Cathedral.

Micha Ludwiczak/istockphoto.com
ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM
To the right of the Cathedral is the stunning Archdiocese
Museum, a do-it-yourself museum that throws rooms full
of religious art at you and youre left to decide for yourself
what to make of it. Much of the art is recent - the work
of local religious orders, but the largest room is lled
with invaluable medieval works from around Poland. Art
historians will no doubt nd plenty of interest.QD-2, Pl.
Katedralny 16, tel. (+48) 71 327 11 78, www.muzeum.
archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10z. N
BOTANICAL GARDEN
To complete a thorough tour of Ostrw Tumski you should
not miss the charming Botanical Gardens. The gardens
began life as a scientic pursuit, but have become a
favourite retreat for Wrocaws residents. The garden was
built from 1811 to 1816 on the riverbed where the Odra
once owed around Ostrw Tumski. The grounds include
a huge diversity of plant life, aquariums, sculptures, a plant
shop and cafe, and a large pond with picturesque bridges.
On some days your peace and quiet could be marred by
noisy groups of schoolkids, but the beautiful manicured
landscapes include enough nooks and crannies that you
should have no trouble forgetting youre in the centre of a
big city. Highly recommended.QD-2, ul. Sienkiewicza 23,
tel. (+48) 71 322 59 57, www.ogrodbotaniczny.wroclaw.
pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00 in September. From October
garden will be open 08:00 - 17:00 and will stay open
through November, weather permitting. Admission
15/5z. UN
Explore more of
Ostrw Tumski online:
Wrocaws Gnomes
After the eventual fall of communism in Poland, gnomes
remained a symbol of Wrocaw, repurposed by the new
government to be a tribute to the Orange Movement, as
well as playful, family-friendly ambassadors of the city.
Photo by Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Oce,

Muncipality of Wrocaw
One of Wrocaws most popular, memorable and iconic

attractions is not a cathedral, castle or monument, but
a legion of little people: gnomes, or krasnale (in local
parlance), to be precise. In Wrocaws city centre these
merry munchkins are simply ubiquitous - dotting doorways,
alleyways and street corners; constantly underfoot but
only seen by the observant. You may well overlook the
rst dozen or so that cross your path, but inevitably and often literally - you will stumble upon these popular
local residents. Keep your eyes peeled and youre bound
to notice the little fellas engaged in a variety of activities
about town - from guarding public space to passed-out
drunk. Beloved by locals and tourists alike, and the object
of more photos than the towering Cathedral, these prolic
pranksters have become the unlikely symbol of one of PLs
most picturesque cities.
Although it sounds like little more than a twee tourist
gimmick, Wrocaws gnomes actually have a direct
correlation to the political climate of the 1980s. Under
communism gnomes became the absurdist calling card
of the Orange Alternative - an underground protest
movement that used absurdity and nonsense to stage
peaceful, yet subversive protests. Armed with paint cans
and led by Waldemar Major Fydrych, an artist and
student at Wrocaw University, the group started out by
ridiculing the establishments attempts to censor public
space. During communism, any anti-establishment grati
or public art was quickly painted over by the militia; upon
seeing fresh daubs of paint, the pranksters of the Orange
Alternative quickly painted over them yet again...with
gnomes. As the cheeky movement gained popularity,
gnomes began to appear in demonstrations as well, with
Major Fydrych handing out iconic peaked orange gnome
hats to passing pedestrians and leading nonsensical
marches for gnomes rights. The resulting arrests of orangeclad and ridiculous-looking gnomes, plus dozens of
bystanders detained for also wearing red, often made the
nightly news and succeeded in making the authorities look
idiotic. The movement caught on across the country, and
soon gnomes were appearing in other major cities as well.
The rst gnome statuette was Papa Krasnal (the largest

of his progeny), who was placed on the corner of ul.
widnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (A-4), where Orange
Alternative demonstrations often took place, to celebrate
the history of the Orange Alternative in 2001. Things really
took o in 2005, however, when local artist Tomasz Moczek
- a graduate of the Wrocaw Academy of Fine Arts - was
commissioned by Wrocaw City Council to create ve more
gnomes. The little devils proved so popular that envious
local businesses quickly got in on the game by contracting
other local artists to produce more, and in almost no time
at all gnomes had proliferated around Wrocaw to the point
that they now constitute a veritable sub-population of the
city. The little buggers are currently rumoured to be running
rampant to the score of over 300(!), making it literally
impossible for us to try and keep track of them, or for visitors
to try to nd all of them on their own. Seeing how many
gnomes you can spot while youre in Wrocaw, however, is
an incredibly fun alternative to traditional sightseeing, and a
great way to keep the kids involved while tramping around
town. To help you out weve included 25 of our favourite
gnomes on our website, with the exact address and GPS
coordinates of their location, which means you can use In
Your Pockets mobile platform (m.inyourpocket.com)
on your smart phone to easily nd some of the citys
most popular gnomes. [Those with an iPhone can also do
the same with our free mobile application.]
If thats not enough, you can also pick up a special map
from tourist information (Rynek 14, A-3) showing where to
nd 30 of the most centrally located gnomes, and there is
even a special, dual-language (Polish and English) website
dedicated to Wrocaws gnomes - www.krasnale.pl
- where you can nd their history, photos and other
information, including downloadable maps of their various
locations. Spend an afternoon as a gnome-watcher and see
how many of these mischievous miscreants you can spot as
you stroll around town. Happy hunting!
Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Oce,

Muncipality of Wrocaw
67
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Once youve nished ogling the Old Town and Ostrw

Tumski, theres one more district of this ne city that visitors
will be poorer heading home without having seen. Just
east of the city centre lie a clutch of outdoor attractions
GETTING THERE
The easiest way to reach the Centennial Exhibition

Complex is via public transport. Tram 10 can be caught
from the Rynek, widnicka and Galeria Dominikaska
stops, or take buses 145 or 146 east from the train
station, getting o at Hala Stulecia. The area is also
easily accessible by car, with parking available right in
front of Centennial Hall.
CENTENNIAL HALL PARKING
Above- and underground ground guarded parking for
nearly 800 passenger cars and 20 buses, right in front
of Centennial Hall, within easy walking distance of the
Zoo, Wrocaw Fountain and Japanese Gardens.QI-4,
ul. Wystawowa 1 (entrance from ul. Kopernika), tel.
(+48) 71 346 14 22, www.parkinghalastulecia.pl.
surrounding Szczynicki Park and the Centennial Exhibition

Complex, including Wrocaws only UNESCO site, the
countrys oldest zoo, the Japanese Garden and the citys
latest tell-me-that-you-love-me tourist lure, the Pergola
Fountain. Intended as a city showpiece since its creation,
the area east of the Odra long held a somewhat lukewarm
public standing thanks to dubious historical connotations
and debatable aesthetic appeal; however recent
renovations, the UNESCO nod and the addition of the
magnicent multimedia fountain (operating May-October)
have made it a favourite place of locals and cemented its
place as a Wrocaw must-see.
WROCAW ZOO
Cross the picturesque Zwierzyniecki Bridge and you nd
yourself immediately alongside the cagey enclosure of
the Wrocaw Zoological Gardens. A product of the citys
dynamic development in the late 19th century, Wrocaws
zoo dates back to 1865 (celebrating 150 years in 2015!) and
became the oldest in the country when Poland inherited it
after World War II. Suering severe wartime damage, many
of the zoos elegant historic buildings were reconstructed
and can be found in the southern part of the park; also dont
miss the splendid Soviet-era neon sign at the entrance.
Brand-new to the zoo is the impressive African aquarium
complex - or Afrykarium - three levels of exhibits
focussed on the diverse water environments of Africa,
including hippos, sharks, manatees, crocodiles, penguins
(in Africa? Who knew?) and more. With over 12,000 critters
of some 1,100 dierent species, the zoo is one of Wrocaws
most visited attractions (dont be surprised by long entry
queues on sunny weekends) and also provides foreigners

with an opportunity to pick up a few phrases from one of
the only Polish-speaking macaws in the world.QI-4, ul.
Wrblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 71 348 30 24, www.zoo.
wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
From December 09:00 - 16:00. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 40/30z.
A family ticket (valid for up to 2 adults, 3 kids) is also
available for 120z (Mon 80z).
IGLICA (SPIRE)
Leaving the animal house antics of the zoo, turn onto ulica
Wystawowa (Exhibition Street) and youll soon nd yourself
staring down the Centennial Hall promenade, including
the ivy-covered columns leading to the towering Iglica
monument and with monolithic Centennial Hall behind it.
The iconic 96 metre tall steel spire was erected on the
Centennial Hall exhibition grounds in 1948 as part of the
propagandic Recovered Territories Exhibition. Meant to
symbolise the soaring achievements of the countrys newly
acquired western territories since they were returned to
Communist Poland, like many of the Partys ideas, this one
quickly went wrong. Originally 106 metres, Iglicas peak
was adorned with a spinning contraption of mirrors which
would create a dazzling umbrella of light at night. The
apparatus was ominously struck by lightning only hours
after completion with much of it crashing to the ground
in dazzling catastrophe; the remaining dangling bits posed
quite a hazard to the expected thousands who would
attend the exhibition. To the rescue came two college
students who were part of a climbing club and volunteered
to dismantle the top of the structure for free after the
military proved unable to sort the situation due to the
inclement weather. Scaling the Iglica took 24 hours and 15
minutes, dismantling it another six, but the boys succeeded
in becoming heroes of the enormous media spectacle. In

1964, the spire was reduced by 10 metres for safety reasons.
During Martial Law, another daredevil climbed the tower
and attached a Solidarity ag to its zenith. Today the ugly
ribbed structure continues to stand outside Centennial Hall
and is probably one of the tallest pieces of useless bolted
metal in the world.QI-4, Hala Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa 1.
CENTENNIAL HALL & DISCOVERY CENTRE
With Wrocaw developing rapidly in the late 19th century
it was determined that the city required an exhibition hall
and the hundred year anniversary of Napoleons defeat
at the Battle of Leipzig (1813) was deemed a timely
occasion for an expensive, over-the-top exhibition hall
that would guratively ex the architectural muscle of the
German Nation. Max Berg, who had been appointed as
ocial city architect in 1909, quickly set about designing
his career-piece, and (what-do-ya-know?) his proposal
was chosen over 42 others by city council despite abject
objection from almost everyone who laid eyes on the
design, which resembled a colossal concrete hatbox and
would cost an enormous 1.9 million Reichmarks. Teaming
with eminent architect Hans Poelzig, the two personally
oversaw the project which was completed in 1913 and has
endured to become hailed as one of the most important
architectural monuments of the early 20th century. With
an inner diameter of 69 metres, a height of 42 metres and
a 10,000 person capacity, the Jahrhunderthalle (as it was
then called) became the highest structure of its type in the
world; that type being a gigantic multi-purpose structure
of radial reinforced concrete ribs unlike anything the world
had ever seen. Though routinely left o lists of the worlds
most attractive buildings, one thing is undeniable: the
Centennial Hall is an engineering marvel.
Building a structure of such size out of steel and concrete
was both revolutionary and extremely daring; in fact the
workers that helped build the behemoth were afraid to
go inside, so certain were they of its eventual collapse. On
the contrary, the Centennial Hall has inexplicably survived
two world wars and hosted countless large scale events
including monumental operas, concerts and sporting
events. It was here that Adolf Hitler held rallies and Pope
John Paul II held services during his famous visit in 1997.
Renamed Hala Ludowa (the Peoples Hall) following World
War II, the structure and surrounding grounds were the site
of the Peoples Republic of Polands Recovered Territories
Exhibition - the most expensive and publicised propaganda
event in the history of Poland. Added to the UNESCO World
Heritage List in 2006, until its total renovation in 2010,
the Centennial Hall complex hadnt really lived up to its
reputation for locals and tourists alike, with busloads of the
latter often standing in front of the concrete monstrosity
wondering how dicult it would be to get the pants
theyre wearing to qualication for the once exclusive list.
However, thats no longer the case; Centennial Hall has been
scrubbed clean and features an interior exhibit that not only
transforms the structure from a dubious photo-op to a bona
de tourist attraction, but also does much to explain and
justify its reputation as a modern architectural masterpiece.
69

Known as the Discovery Centre (Centrum Poznawcze),
this exhibition gives visitors an overview of Centennial
Halls construction, its history and its place in the pantheon
of modern architecture. Most of the information is
conveyed via nifty touch-screen displays covering topics
as varied as Breslau architects, skyscrapers, various world
exhibitions, Polish UNESCO sites, and a lot more related
to architecture and Wrocaw specically. In addition to the
permanent exhibit, Discovery Centre includes a gallery for
temporary exhibitions and the option of a light and sound
show under the dome. Using video-mapping technology,
the dome of the Hall comes to life with a stunningly
complex light show that emphasises the uniqueness of
the structure and is creatively choreographed to original
music. Between the light show, the computerised displays
of the permanent exhibit and the adjacent Wrocaw
Fountain - there is some serious multimedia wizardry in
this corner of town that is sure to delight architect bus
and technophiles alike. Despite its size (the permanent
exhibition only covers two small rooms), there is much to
learn and discover, so allot almost two hours for your visit.
QI-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 50, www.
halastulecia.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.
From November 09:00 - 17:00. Closed the rst Monday
of every month. Admission 12/9z, permanent exhibit
plus gallery 14/11z, permanent exhibit plus gallery and
light show 19/15z.
Wrocaw Fountain even has pyrotechnic capabilities with

reworks and lasers implausibly shooting out of the large
semicircle basin next to Centennial Hall. The result is one
of the most dazzling, delightful displays of light, sound
and water youll ever see; in fact only a few such fountains
exist in the world (although those show-stealing jerks in
Warsaw recently got themselves one). Certainly nothing
puts a stamp on the end of communism like indulging
in some outrageously expensive gadgetry; the cost of
running this show on a regular basis must be enormous,
but you can see it for free from May until the end of
October (weather permitting). The fountain comes to life
hourly starting from 10:00 (the timing of the last show
changes each month), and performances vary from 3.5 to
18 minutes with a short or long programme of classical
music (Wagner, Beethoven), modern music (Apocalyptica,
Faith No More), or pop music (Daft Punk, Madonna). The
real stunners, however, happen just after dark on Fri, Sat
and Sun, when the full functionality of the fountain is on
display, including lights. View the daily schedule in detail
(and in English!) online.QI-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.
wroclawskafontanna.pl.
JAPANESE GARDEN
WROCAW FOUNTAIN
Just left of Centennial Halls main entrance youll nd the
Pergola - a colossal, semi-circular, ivy-covered colonnade
winding around one of the citys most popular attractions
- the multimedia fountain. Unveiled in June 2009, in
honour of the 20th anniversary of the rst free elections
in post-war Poland, Wrocaws fountain projects water
up to 40 metres high through an array of 300 dierent
nozzles which have the ability to rotate, gyrate, pulse
and even create a 700 square metre screen of water on
which animated projections can be displayed; all the while
music orchestrates the show through the parks speakers.
Equipped with 800 lights of varying size and strength, the
satori | dollar photo club
Just north of Centennial Hall behind the pergola, the

Japanese Garden was established in 1913 as part of the
Artistic Gardening Exhibition which accompanied the
centennial celebrations and was originally the work of
Count Fritz von Hochberg and Mankichi Arai. Despite its
own share of devastation, including the particularly cruel
ood of 1997 which occurred only two months after a
long restoration project (thanks in part to the generosity
of the Japanese Embassy in Warsaw), the arrangement of
the garden and its system of small streams are part of its
over one hundred year old legacy. Two symbolic water
cascades which merge into one large pond comprise the
main attractions of these small, but exquisitely manicured
gardens - one of the most tranquil escapes in the city.QI-4,
ul. Mickiewicza (Park Szczytnicki). Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed From November. Admission 4/2z.

SZCZYTNICKI PARK
A stroll away from the colonnades of the pond area puts you
in Szczytnicki Park, the oldest and largest recreation space
in the city. Covering 115 hectares and laid out in 1785, the
once well-groomed former estate park suered devastation
during the Napoleonic Wars and WWII and today largely
resembles a natural landscape within the city borders. While
there, keep your eyes peeled for the small Church of St.
John of Nepomuk - a marvellous 14th century wooden
church moved to the park from the Opole region and
miraculously undamaged during the war.QI-3/4.
RECOVERED TERRITORIES
In 1948, Wrocaws Centennial Hall played host to the largest,
most organised propaganda event in Polands history: The
Recovered Territories Exhibition. An ocial term coined
by Polands post-war communist authorities, the recovered
territories denoted those lands re-appropriated to Poland
as compensation for territorial losses in the east which had
been absorbed by the Soviet Union. The Partys underlying
aim was to construe the countrys new western territorial
acquisitions of which Wrocaw (formerly Breslau) was the
largest city - as belonging to a Polish Piast tradition that
dated to medieval times; centuries of German presence in
Silesia was explained as evidence of unyielding German
aggression, and Polands repossession of the resourcerich region, which had repeatedly fed the German war
machine, would ensure world peace in the future. Polands
post-war generation was actually educated to believe
that the Potsdam Agreement had returned the country
to its rightful boundaries and 1948s Recovered Territories
Exhibition aimed to propagate the same message to
everyone in attendance.
Originally intended to be held in Pozna, one look at
Wrocaws Centennial Hall must have made Polands
communist leaders change their minds; a more glorious
piece of grey concrete could not have been dreamed
up by even the Soviet Unions best-rinsed brains and the
monumental structure was immediately renamed Peoples
Hall (Hala Ludowa). The preparation of the exhibition
centre included the calamitous construction of the Iglica
Spire, as well as 48 pavilions portraying the glory of life in
Silesia since it had been polonised: among them were a
barn full of cows where guests were invited to drink fresh
milk, and a long conveyor belt around which miners from
Wabrzych pretended to produce coal. Hala Ludowas
main exhibition space was reserved for the real heroes of
the Peoples Republic: the workers. Here 200 photos and
biographies presented the regions super socialist achievers,
among them Wincenty Hajduk - a miner extraordinaire
whose eciency was 571% above his peers, and Legnicas
Maria Lewin who apparently could knit at +401%. All told,
the exhibition cost a whopping 700 million PLN and was
visited by 1.5 million people during its run from July 21st to
the end of October 1948; workers across the country were
even given days o specically for organised trips to visit
the exhibition.
Photo courtesy of Museum of Architecture
In concert with the Recovered Territories Exhibition, the

International Congress of Intellectuals in Defence
of Peace was organised in August 1948 with much the
same propagandist aims - international luminaries were
invited based on their perceived susceptibility to the
Soviet message. In all, high-prole representatives of
46 countries attended the Congress including Graham
Greene, Bertolt Brecht and Pablo Picasso, who was own
in on a special plane provided by the Peoples Republic and
was apparently so charmed by the display of Polish folk
costumes that he bought one to take home. However, not
everyone in attendance was endeared; in fact some guests
were downright outraged and the Congress became a
well-publicised scandal. Constantly searched and hounded
by Secret Service agents, many of the intellectuals found
a blatantly doctored message from Albert Einstein and
several speeches condemning western culture all too
transparent; some left the conference while others took
their objections to the press. Despite being a mockery,
however, in the end the resolution drafted by the Congress
which nonsensically condemned the war preparations of
a handful of greedy war proteers in Europe and America
who have adopted the ideas of racial superiority from
fascism went unsigned by only 20 of the 357 gathered
participants, and the Party was well-pleased with itself.
Photo courtesy of Museum of Architecture
71
Jewish Wrocaw
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Wrocaws Jewish community is one of the oldest in todays

Poland, dating back to the 12th century when the city was
an important trade centre along the Amber Road. Though
consistently confronted with persecution, Jews have
steadily played a role in the development of the city. By
the end of the 19th century, in fact, the Jewish community
was so well integrated into Breslau society that many Jews
had achieved leading positions in academic and scientic
circles; at the time, these men were not considered any
less German than they were Jewish. Breslau (as it was
then known) possessed the second largest synagogue in
Germany and its Jewish community was the third largest in
the country with numbers that had risen to 30,000 by the
time Hitler came to power.
It doesnt require much detail from us to know what
befell Breslaus wartime Jewish population. The citys
once magnicent main synagogue - torched on
Kristallnacht (November 9, 1938) - says enough, with
only a small memorial remembering where it once
stood at ul. kowa 6 (A-4). What less people are aware
of is that after the war when German Breslau became
Polish Wrocaw, the citys Jewish population actually
increased dramatically beyond its pre-war levels as the
city accepted some 70,000 Jews displaced by the war many from the Soviet Union. Ironically, Wrocaws Jewish
population reached its peak immediately after WWII;
however, the anti-minority politics of the Soviet Union
slowly shrank their numbers until they had been forced
out of Poland completely by 1968. Since the fall of the
Soviet Union that number has been resurgent again and
today there are some 1,000 Jews living in Wrocaw, part of
a gradual transition from tracing the past to plotting the

future which culminated in May 2010 with the symbolic
reopening of the White Stork Synagogue.
NEW JEWISH CEMETERY
Located northwest of the centre, the New Jewish Cemetery
was founded in 1902 when the lna Street cemetery
became too small, and is still in use by Wrocaws Jewish
community today. That hasnt saved it from the ravages of
time however, and like the cemetery it succeeded, it stands
in sharp contrast to the well-kept Catholic cemeteries
across Poland. Comprising 11 hectares and approximately
8,000 graves, this is the fth largest Jewish cemetery
in Poland, and as such carries an even more powerful
aura of secret beauty among its maze of ivy-coved
headstones and crumbling vaults. Likewise registered as
an historical monument for its rich diversity of aesthetic
and architectural styles, the most noteworthy tomb here
is dedicated to the Jewish soldiers of the German Army
who fought and died in WWI; their 432 names are etched
into the top of the monument. The cemetery is currently
the subject of slow renovation work and is only open
to the public from mid-April to mid-November, on
Wednesdays (14:00 - 17:00) and Sundays (09:00 - 13:00),
with parts of the cemetery cordoned o altogether. Still,
about 80% (this place is huge, remember) is accessible,
with about 50% having already undergone restoration. We
advise that you contact the Jewish Information Centre / CI
Cafe for updated information. To get there catch trams 10,
33, 20 or 3 from Pl.Jana Pawa II and get o at DH Astra; its
about a 12min ride.Qul. Lotnicza 51 (Fabryczna), www.
wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Admission 8z.
Jewish Wrocaw
OLD JEWISH CEMETERY
Established in 1856, this 4.6 hectare cemetery is perhaps
the most well-preserved testament to the former strength
of Breslaus pre-war Jewish community, with over 1200
gravestones. Closed in 1942, the cemetery quickly fell into
deep neglect: in 1945 it was turned into a fortress by the
Nazis and saw erce ghting as evidenced by the eerie
bullet holes in many of the gravestones. Preservation began
in the 1970s and in 1991 it was opened as the Museum of
Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute to the craftsmanship of its
sepulchral art. Indeed the beauty and diversity of styles
and symbols on display is perhaps unmatched anywhere.
Many noteworthy gures are buried here, including the
renowned biologist Ferdinand Cohn, the historian Heinrich
Graetz (author of the rst complete history of the Jews),
Clara Immerwahl (rst female PhD student at the University
of Breslau, and wife of Fritz Haber, who committed suicide
in objection to her husbands work developing chemical
warfare), Ferdinand Lassalle (founder and leader of the
rst labour party in Germany, killed in a duel), and the
parents of Edith Stein; using old records some of their
tombstones are slowly being restored. However, despite
these modest eorts the lna Street Cemetery remains
a completely mysterious and evocative sanctuary of
decaying vine-covered monuments, the broken pieces of
which are stacked against each other, giving shelter to stray
cats and shade to wildowers. Well worth a visit, a highly
informative accompanying booklet (in Polish, English or
German) makes it even more so, despite being overpriced
at 15z.QE/F-7, ul. lna 37/39, tel. (+48) 71 791 59 04,
www.mmw.pl. Open 09:00 till dusk. Admission 10/7z,
Thu free.
was here that members of the Jewish community were

rounded up for deployment to the death camps during
WWII. Badly damaged, but not set ablaze (thanks only
to its proximity to residential buildings), the synagogue
was literally left to rot after the war, before the Jewish
community was nally able to recover it from the
Polish government in 1996 and initiate restoration. Reopened in May 2010, the synagogue now serves as a
worship space, cultural centre and branch of the Jewish
Information Centre, with a new multi-functional hall in
the synagogues basement and two exhibition spaces on
the balconies. One houses a permanent exhibition about
the History of Jews in Wrocaw and Lower Silesia, while
the second balcony is for temporary exhibitions. Guided
tours takes place every Sunday at 11:00 in Polish (5/10z)
and at 13:00 in (10z).QE-4, ul. Wodkowica 7, tel. (+48)
71 787 39 02, www.wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00
- 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 -16:00. Closed Sat.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
TOURS & INFORMATION

CI CAFE
After renovations, the Jewish Information Centre has
reopened as CI Cafe - a kosher coeehouse, bookshop
and tourist info centre. In addition to being a new
venue for Jewish-related lectures, workshops and other
events, this outt also arranges Jewish walking tours of
Wrocaw. While youre there enjoy coee, tea, cakes and
muns.QE-4, ul. Wodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 787 39
02, www.wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Fri 09:00 until dusk. Closed Sat. GBW
THE WHITE STORK SYNAGOGUE
The only synagogue in Wrocaw to escape the torches of
Kristallnacht, the White Stork was built in 1829, taking its
name from the inn that once stood in its place. Following
the design of prominent German architect Karl Ferdinand
Langhans, it is ironically considered a sterling example
of 18th century Protestant sacral art. Discreetly hidden
from view in a courtyard between ul. Antoniego and
ul. Wodkowica, today the surrounding grounds are full
of beer gardens, bohemians and tourists; however it
THE BENTE KAHAN FOUNDATION

Founded in 2006 to accomplish the renovation of
the Synagogue, this outfit organises the monthly
events that take place there, including exhibitions,
film screenings, workshops, lectures, language
courses, concerts, theatre performances and more.
For info about Jewish events in Wrocaw, start here.
QE-4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 782 81 23,
www.fbk.org.pl.
73
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Known as one of Polands greenest cities, Wrocaw oers

plenty of recreation opportunities on top of its great
architecture, nightlife and culture. With a scenic location
on the Odra River and its many tributaries, the city boasts
copious kilometres of river boulevards and bike lanes, as
well as kayak rentals and river cruises in summer. Locals
ock to the Botanical Gardens (p.66) and Japanese
Gardens (p.70) when the sun is out, and there are plenty
of city-centre public parks to relax in from Ostrw Tumski
(p.64) to Partisan Hill (p.61). The Municipal Swimming
Pools are a hidden gem and the Water Park is one of the
best in the country. Football fans also have the chance to
see one of Polands biggest clubs - lsk Wrocaw - in the
new state-of-the-art Wrocaw Stadium. Whatever your
interest, the area has something to oer you, so use the
listings below to stay active in every season.
ADRENALINE SPORTS
ACTIVE POLAND
Active Poland organises group activities including gokarting, paintball, shooting, rafting, hovercraft rides,
kayaking and naughtier evenings out for the boys.QB-4, ul.
Kazimierza Wielkiego 87, tel. (+48) 71 344 51 51, www.
activepoland.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
KWATERA GWNA
Organised laser tag in a specially designed maze arena for
2-10 person groups. Reservations recommended.QC-1,
ul. Sienkiewicza 8a, tel. (+48) 531 63 80 00, www.
kwateraglowna.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. 40z per person
per hour.
LE MANS
This is an awesome 850m long go-kart track inside
Wrocaws immaculate football stadium. Oering 30 karts
for adults and 12 for kids, if you can prove its your birthday
theyll even give you an 8 minute go for free. Getting
there is easy via tram 31, getting o at Stadion Wrocaw
(Krlewiecka). A second, but shorter 450m track at ul.
Czekoladowa 5-22 (Bielany Wrocawskie) is also open every
day 10:00 - 22:00.QAl. lska 1, tel. (+48) 800 90 00 00,
www.tornastadionie.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. 10 minutes
25-32z, 22 mins 50-64z, 35 mins 75-96z, 65 mins 140z.
BIKE RENTAL
BIKE & SCOOTER RENTAL
This bike rental service cooperates with the tourist information
oce on the market square where they keep a small corral of
bikes, which is why we list their address (inquire inside); but
actually theyll deliver a bike or motorised scooter (think Vespa)
straight to your hotel, or wherever you want - just call the
number listed here. Prices are 30z for up to 3 hours or 60z/day;
scooters 130z/day only. Accompanying audioguides of the
main tourist sights in Wrocaw are also available in 7 languages
for 20z.QA-3, Rynek 14 (Tourist Information), tel. (+48) 534
10 07 80, www.bikerentalwroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00,
Bikes and Scooters available for rent until October 1.
BIKE CAFE
During the spring/summer, Bike Cafe backs up their talk
by being one of the most reliable places in Wrocaw for
getting a pair of wheels under you. And the bikes arent all
identical either, but a random assortment of vintage urban
Leisure
bikes in good working condition that dont scream Im a
tourist! when you take them for a cruise. A 100z deposit
is required and prices are 7z/hr, or 40z/day Mon-Thu; 8z/
hr, or 50z/day weekends.QF-4, ul. w. Antoniego 8, tel.
(+48) 71 346 15 34. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
BOWLING & BILLIARDS

SEZAM
Just o the main square, this billiards bar covers 600m2
with 17 professional pool tables, one professional snooker
table and plenty of beer and spirits.QB-3, ul. Kunicza
10, tel. (+48) 71 344 85 46, www.sezambilard.pl. Open
10:00 - 24:00. 10-26z/h.
SKYBOWLING
Full of shiny surfaces, planetary paintings and a unique
colour changing ceiling, this enormous, new state-of-theart bowling alley on the 2nd oor of Sky Tower features 24
lanes, plus a restaurant/bar and VIP room. Pricing is quite
complex and depends on the time of day and day of the
week, ranging from 20z Monday mornings to 90z Friday
nights per lane for an hour of play (shoe rental included).
QE-6, ul. Powstacw lskich 73-95 (Sky Tower), tel.
(+48) 71 712 83 33, www.skybowling.pl. Open 08:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
ENTERTAINMENT CENTRES
BOBOLANDIA
Located just north of the city centre, Bobolandia is the largest
family amusement centre in Poland, oering 3000 square
metres of fun and attractions. Pretty much every kids dream,
this family funhouse includes all kinds of plush and inatable
play areas and jungle gyms, trampolines, ball pits, slides,
sandboxes and more, plus pool tables, air hockey and arcade
games. Theres also a restaurant. As you could probably
spend all day here (and your child will no doubt want to),
tickets are sold at a at day rate of 29z per kid on weekdays
(19z if you arrive after 17:00), 32z per kid on weekends (21z
after 17:00). The nice part is adults only pay 5z and are likely
to have a great time also.Qul. Jana Dugosza 59-75 (Psie
Pole), tel. (+48) 71 793 77 44, www.bobolandia.com.pl.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
SPA & BEAUTY

CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE
Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical
and mental tension, strengthen the immune system,
improve joint exibility and remove toxins from your body
with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by
highly qualied Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple
in Bangkok. The oer includes classical Thai massage,
herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reexology,
back, shoulder and head massages, and more. Note that
reception is only open until 20:00.QA-3, ul. Ruska 35, tel.
(+48) 667 75 53 87, www.tajskimasaz.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. Massages 120-300z.
75
Leisure
BOAT RENTAL
& RIVER CRUISES
FUNBOAT
This slick little catamaran not only oers 40min/25z
sightseeing cruises departing from Przysta
Uniwersytecka (B-2) every hour on the hour, but its also
available for private hire, which were telling you now is
a winning idea for company parties, stag groups, or any
group of up to 14 people. Decked out in leather sofas,
furnishings include a BBQ grill on the sun deck, a bar with
a fridge, karaoke machine, TV and wi. Its also cleared to
poodle around after dark, so put the party lights on and
turn the music up. Kind of like a stretch limo on the water,
Roger Waters rented it out when he was in town; you
want to be like Roger Waters, dont you?QB-2, Przysta
Uniwersytecka, tel. (+48) 885 50 25 02, www.funboat.
pl. Available for rent through the end of October.
Prices for private hire: Sun - Thurs 400z for 1 hour,
300z for each additional hour. Fri, Sat 500z for 1 hour,
900z for 2 hours, each additional hour 300z.
PASSENGER CRUISES
(EGLUGA PASAERSKA)
So elaborate are the Odra waterways around Wrocaws
Old Town that this outt oers an array of river routes
from four dierent harbours aboard ve dierent
vessels. 55, 50 or 40 minute panoramic river cruises are
available leaving from the Przysta Cypel harbour on
Sodowa Island (B-2), Przysta Kardynalska on Piasek
Island (C-2), Przysta Zwierzyniecka (ul. Wrblewskiego
1, I-4), and the Wrocaw Zoo (I-5) for the reasonable rate
of 15-23z (depending on length); note that a minimum
of 10-15 people are required to cast o. On Fridays,
Saturdays and Sundays, hour-long evening cruises also
depart from Przysta Kardynalska with entertainment;
tickets 25z. All vessels are also available for private hire
with prices negotiated by phone. Kayaks, canoes and
other small boats are also available to rent.QC-2, ul.
Wrblewskiego 1, tel. (+48) 609 20 08 67, www.
statekpasazerski.pl. Boat rental is open till October
and day and evening cruises will run through midOctober but call ahead to be sure.
SZLAK GONDOLI
One of the most clever things you can do on a sunny
day in Wrocaw is prepare a picnic, head here and rent
yourself a kayak (14z/hr), rowing boat (25z/hr) or
motorboat (80z/hr). They also operate four water trams
through the tiny canals of the Old Town. These run from
12:00 - 20:00 weekdays and 10:00 - 20:00 weekends
between Zatoka Gondoli (C-3), Wyspa Sodowa (B/C-2)
and the Zoo (I-5), and tickets cost 15z for 30min trips,
25z for 55min trips.QD-3, ul. Purkyniego 9 (Zatoka
Gondoli), tel. (+48) 791 12 28 58/7390 122 858,
www.gondole.eu. Open from 10:00 till dusk until
the end of October.
MONOPOL SPA & WELLNESS CENTRE

Descend beneath the grandeur of the Monopol hotel to
nd one of the citys premier spa and wellness centres
including a gym, counter-current swimming pool, fountain
and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy steam bath and salt
and iodine cave. Massages, face and body treatments are
also available.QA-4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol
Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50, www.monopolwroclaw.
hotel.com.pl. Spa open 09:00 - 21:00; Wellness Centre
06:00 - 22:00.
SWIMMING
MUNICIPAL SWIMMING POOLS
This gorgeous complex in the very centre of Wrocaw
housed the city municipal baths built between 189597. Over one hundred years later, today it maintains its
function as a therapeutic swimming complex, and is one
of Wrocaws most important architectural monuments
from the 19th century (included on the National Registry
of Historic Monuments). A beauty from the outside, the
interior ornamentation of the four pool complex includes
sculpted sandstone, stained-glass windows, artistic ceramic
tiles, polychromatic vaulted ceilings, two-level arcades and
colonnades inspired by the ancient hot baths of Rome.
Currently serviced by SPA Centre Wrocaw, full spa services
are also on hand so if you plan on taking a dip or lying down
for a massage in Wrocaw, youd be crazy not to do it here.
Club and school reservations make it a bit tricky, but the
website regularly updates its posted reservation schedule,
which youd be wise to check before thonging down to the
pool.QB-4, ul. Teatralna 10-12, tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43,
www.spa.wroc.pl. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 15-16.50z.
WROCAW AQUAPARK
Completed in 2008, Wrocaws water park is easily one of
the nest in the country and makes for a nice respite from
the citys confoundingly complex history and high-minded
cultural attractions. And its probably the only place your
kids will tell their friends about from their trip to Wrocaw.
While the main attractions are surely the indoor and
outdoor recreational swimming pools with their water
slides (including the most recent addition - a multimedia
slide involving lights and music to distract you as you
plummet), wave machines, wild river and other wonders,
adults will appreciate the Wellness & Saunarium spa area
with saunas (saunas ladies-only on Tues), massage services
and more. Also on hand is a tness centre, restaurant, cafe,
bar and shop, making a trip to the Aqua Park a full days
outing, just south of the train station. From the city centre
you can take trams 8, 9, 15, 31 or 32, and bus numbers
113, 145, 146 or 612.QF-6, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71
771 15 11, www.aquapark.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00.
Fitness Centre, Wellness & Spa, saunas and sport pool all
have independent hours. Check the website for exact
times. Admission 19/17z per hour, 60/49z for a day
pass on weekdays; 22/18z per hour, 67/55z for a day
pass on weekends.
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Retail opportunities have come a long way since the days of

queuing around the corner for the o-chance of buying a
crust of bread. Today Wrocaws shop-fronts are stocked with
everything youd expect to nd in a cosmopolitan metropolis,
with bountiful pedestrian shopping opportunities around the
market square, ulica widnicka and ulica Oawska. Odrzaska,
Kiebanicza and Mikoaja streets are home to upmarket
boutiques and galleries, while the popular Jatki (A-2) is known
for its row of artisan galleries and souvenir stalls. For familiar
international labels and big brands, look no further than one
of Wrocaws glistening new shopping malls - there are no less
than ve comfortably within the city centre. Lastly, dont miss
visiting Hala Targowa (C-2) for a truly Polish cultural experience
while catching a bargain. As this is PL, remember most shops
close early on Saturday and take Sunday o altogether.
ALCOHOL & TOBACCO

You may have noticed that here in PL, its a bit of a drinking
culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the
countrys success at football. Indeed, nothing says Ive been
to Poland like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the
second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling and
draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can
make a legitimate claim as the spirits primordial homeland. As
such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if its
not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands
youll nd in fancy gift sets, but dont miss ubrwka (bison
grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), odkowa
(herbal stomach liqueur) and Goldwasser with its signature
gold akes. Wrocaw is also one of the best beer cities in PL,
so dont miss trying a variety of microbrews before you leave.
OLD HAVANA CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE

This small shop oers hundreds of cigars from Cuba and
elsewhere, cutters, fancy ashtrays and other accessories,
plus a wide variety of whiskies, rum, wine, port and
cognacs. The sta is very knowledgeable and happy to
help you make a decision, or why not stay and sample
the selection on-site? Well versed in the ner things in life,
they also have great coee.QA-3, ul. Kiebanicza 24, tel.
(+48) 790 80 22 81. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
PIWOCZAS
A convenience store for beer connoisseurs, here you can
deliberate over your decision as long as you like, and take
as many beers home with you as you can t under your
arm (or in your suitcase). There are over 600 choice brews
from Poland and abroad, and they stay open late on the
weekends so you can have a nightcap in your room when
the bars wear you out. Second location at ul. Tczowa 22
(E-4).QE-4, ul. w. Antoniego 27/29, tel. (+48) 506 16 28
42, www.piwoczas.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 03:00.
AMBER & JEWELLERY

Vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland. For
centuries amber drew craftsmen, traders and thieves to
Central Europe and the Baltic. While the thieves may be
gone, amber and its enthusiasts remain, and today Poland
is renowned for its craftsmen who handsomely shape the
fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery.
Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic
Gold and youve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.
Shopping
GALERIA SCHUBERT
Located in the Town Hall, World of Amber has an
impressive and reasonably priced array of amber-themed
jewellery and pieces. For those less keen on amber, they
also oer other precious stones and metals and took
a page out of the Bohemian book with a small section
of crystal-ware. If amber is on your Wroclaw to-do list,
Schubert will do nicely without killing your travel budget
or drawing you away from the heart of the city.QB-3,
Rynek-Ratusz 20/22, tel. (+48) 71 343 95 51. Open
09:00 - 19:00.
MARKETS
HALA TARGOWA
ART & ANTIQUES

Antiques are a popular commodity in Poland and youll
nd no shortage of antiquated oddities in Wrocaw. As you
walk about town keep your eyes peeled for signage with
the inscriptions Antyki,Antykwariat and Starocie (junk); ul.
Kiebanicza (A-3) is a good place to start. Knowledgeable
dealers oer prices comparable with the rest of Europe, but
there are still plenty of bargains and undervalued treasures
to be found. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art that
is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value
out of the country, youll have to get some papers in order
rst. Most proper dealers can provide this straight-away,
but you may want to check before opening your wallet.
For artisan galleries in Wrocaw, head straight to ul. Jatki
(A-2). In addition to being Wrocaws oldest, most narrow,
and most charming street, this row of former medieval
butcher stalls is today home to numerous artist studios and
galleries. For non-commercial art gallery listings, visit our
Culture section.
ANTYKI PRZY SZEWSKIEJ
A very professional and absolutely gorgeous antique shop
uniquely located under the Gothic arches of St. Mary
Magdalenes Church. With over 5000 items for sale from
all over the world - including furniture, lamps, paintings,
graphics, porcelain, glass silver and more - its also the
largest antiques salon in Wrocaw. All items also available
for sale online - visit the website.QB-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel.
(+48) 71 341 81 84, www.antykiszewska.pl. Open 14:00
- 19 00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
-10%
with
this
guid
ul. Szewska 10, Wrocaw

tel. +48 508 890 044 - antykiszewska.pl
Designed by Max Berg, the same innovative concrete

engineer behind Wrocaws UNESCO-listed Centennial
Hall, this unique market hall has a handsome,
traditional-looking facade, while the interior is a
concrete cathedral of elliptical arches. Worth a look
from an architectural, cultural and practical standpoint,
in Hala Targowa youll nd earnest locals hawking top
quality fruit and vegetables on the ground oor, as well
as a wide selection of local cheese, salami and hams.
Upstairs is a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon
underwear and plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of
surprisingly clean and modern public toilets. To your
right as you enter the market is one of the citys best
little no-name, no-fuss pierogi bars. Essential.QC-2, ul.
Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 31. Open 08:00 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
PLAC TARGOWY WIEBODZKI
If you want a real cultural adventure that youll
remember for a long, long time, head to the no-mansland behind the wiebodzki train station on a Sunday
afternoon and check out this unbelievable open-air
ea market sprawling endlessly west over the train
tracks. A truly mind-blowing scene, the size and scope
of this market is almost hard to comprehend; from the
main entrance near Plac Orlt Lwowskich it unfolds
through an endless maze of blue and white striped
tents, before devolving into acres of rubbish laid out on
dirty blankets over the train tracks or the muddy, barren
earth. Here you can buy literally anything under the sun
at prices about 50% lower than those you might expect
to nd anywhere so audacious as to have a oor or a
roof. Some of it is perfectly legit, of course, some of it
quite dodgy, and most of it complete rubbish. Were
not mentioning it for the shopping though; amateur
photographers and cultural anthropologists will have a
eld day here. Surprisingly close to the market square,
get there while you can, because the city authorities
intend to eliminate this blemish which spoils the
image of the city.QE-4, ul. Robotnicza 2, tel. (+48)
71 717 12 54. Open on Sundays only; working hours
vary, but most vendors arrive before 08:00 and are
packing up by 15:00.
79
Shopping
POLISH VODKA
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka

since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll nd in any
alcohol shop. But you wont nd many tipplers throwing
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of
Polish vodka sampling is the avoured vodkas, the most
popular of which we describe below.
WINIWKA
Undoubtedly the most common avoured vodka,
winiwka is cheap and cherry-avoured. Youll see
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright
red monogamy cure.
ODKOWA GORZKA
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives even the
most inrm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of
its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka
avoured with herbs and spices, odkowa is incredibly
palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
KRUPNIK
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum drinking vodka doesnt
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added.
UBRWKA
One of Polands most popular overseas vodka exports,
ubrwka has been produced in Eastern Poland since
the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specic
to Biaowiea Forest (a blade of which appears in each
bottle), ubrwka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as
it is on its own, ubrwka is most commonly combined
with apple juice a refreshing concoction called a tatanka.
POLISH POSTER GALLERY

Poland has a proud tradition of graphic art design for film
and theatre, which has basically developed into its own
genre. This fantastic gallery is the place to check it out
by browsing through binders full of hundreds of designs,
many of them in stock and others available to order. Find
alternative film posters you never knew existed for your
favourite flicks, plus amazing propaganda and theatre
posters. A great place for souvenirs and gifts, if you arent
into travelling with a poster tube, check out the amazing
postcard collection. Anyone who appreciates graphic art
will be glad to discover this place; recommended.QE-4,
ul. w. Mikoaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, www.
polishposter.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Sun.
SHOPIQ
If youre interested in checking out some local art and
supporting the local scene, drop by this very cool
gallery full of graphics, photos, illustrations, screenprints,
paintings and more by local artists. They also have quite an
assortment of new and used records to peruse, which you
can trade for your own if you happened to leave home with
some of your least essential records in your suitcase.QE-4,
ul. w. Antoniego 28, tel. (+48) 512 48 22 94, www.
shopiq.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM

DE MOLIKA
The closest thing in Wrocaw to the indie record store youve
always wanted to open. Run by two devoted owners, this
tiny shop has all the new and vintage vinyl you wont nd in
the megastores, plus tonnes of CDs.QB-4, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48) 71 346 89 26, www.demolika.pl.
EMPIK MEGASTORE
This massive store selling books, music, movies, video
games, coee, greeting cards and more, also has the best
selection of foreign papers and magazines in town, though
you can expect to pay a hefty mark-up for the privilege.
Dictionaries, phrase books, maps and a limited English
language ction section are also inside. Other locations
in Magnolia Park, Pasa Grunwaldzki and Renoma (see
Shopping Malls).QB-3, Rynek 50, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 62,
www.empik.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
TAJNE KOMPLETY
Wrocaws nest bookstore, located right in the Town Hall.
With a bit of an alternative bent, and a surprisingly good
English language selection, Tajny Komplety is the kind
of place you could spend the entire day nosing through
comics, art books and even vinyl records. It twins as a cafe,
so dont expect to be the only one there taking advantage
of the free wi, coee, tea, cakes and more.QB-3,
Przejcie Garncarskie 2, tel. (+48) 71 714 23 80, www.
tajnekomplety.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Shopping
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
FU-KU
Located inside Galeria Na Czystej - a small modern building
hidden behind the Renoma shopping mall - youll nd
one of Wrocaws best swag shops for the fashionable
young urbanite. Peruse the piles and racks of fannypacks,
handbags made from vinyl records, LEGO earrings, zipper
jewellery, asymmetrical sweaters and so much more - all of
it totally trendy, hip, hand-made and designed in Poland.
QB-5, ul. Czysta 4, tel. (+48) 795 27 88 39, www.fu-ku.
pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
MOHER VINTAGE & DESIGN
Located in a highly enviable retail space just o the
market square down ul. Wizienna, this large and
beautiful boutique/concept store features upscale vintage
clothing, designer shoes, signature furnishings, hip fashion
accessories and more. Come to browse the racks, stay for
a coee, conversation and style tips from the fashionable
young ladies working here.QB-3, ul. Igielna 14/15
(entrance from ul. Wizienna), tel. (+48) 71 341 80 77,
www.moher.com.pl. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 16:00.
FOOD & SWEETS

SODKIE CZARY MARY
A small, charming hand-made sweets shop on the Rynek,
where you watch the candy being made right before
your eyes. Most of the interior is occupied by the long
work counter where young ladies are busy rolling out the
colourful candies that cover the shop shelves as children
and their parents watch in wonder. Proper candy-making
demonstrations are conducted at 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00
weekdays, and every hour from 12:00-17:00 on weekends.
Not only a great local gift idea, but a unique experience
for children, choose from a range of reasonably-priced
lollipops and hard candies that come in dozens of avours
from rhubarb to whiskey-cola.QB-3, Rynek Ratusz 27, tel.
(+48) 601 46 15 61, www.slodkieczarymary.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

Its only natural to want to have a reminder of your visit to
Poland and leave with some tangible evidence to show all
those folks back home who have no idea what or where the
country is. And if you plan on staying with a Polish family
while in the country, its common practise to arrive with
a gift. Wrocaw being an established tourist destination,
youll nd souvenir stalls selling chintzy rubbish all around
the Old Town; while thats all well and good, most of this
merchandise probably wasnt made in Poland, just like
most of the Mexican food in Poland isnt prepared by
Mexicans. Here, and throughout this section, weve made
an attempt to identify unique shops in Wrocaw that sell
local or Polish products so we can all feel good about
where youre spending your zoty.
Gifts
& Souvenirs
Geschenke
Regalos
RYNEK 3 MAIN SQUARE

WROCAW
81
Shopping
SHOPPING MALLS
ARKADY WROCAWSKIE
CEPELIA
For over 55 years, this well-recognised company has been
promoting and preserving Polish folk art and handicrafts
with a wide selection of ceramics, wood carvings, knitwork,
wickery and much more. A lot of its touristy rubbish, but
weve always fancied the folk costumes (our birthdays
coming up). This shop is huge and seamlessly conjoined to
a folk art gallery. Also at ul. Wita Stwosza 55 (B-3).QB-2, Pl.
Biskupa Nankiera 5/6/7, tel. (+48) 71 343 59 79, www.
cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun
10:00 - 14:00.
UPOMINKI
Large and perfectly placed on the market square, its no
surprise that this is one of the longest-running and most
successful souvenir shops in town. With all manner of local
Wrocaw and Polish souvenirs, including an impressive
collection of amber and other jewellery, gnome gurines,
photo albums, t-shirts, bags, magnets, mugs, keychains,
postcards, paintings and more, theres even a couch for taking
a rest when all those shopping bags start weighing you down.
QA-3, Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 74. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
VENA POTTERY (GALERIA VENA)
If you arent familiar
with the universallyloved Bolesawiec style
of Polish ceramic, which
hails from a little town
not far to the west of
Wrocaw, then make sure
you drop into this shop
on the market square and educate yourself. Hand-painted
in traditional folk motifs, Vena produces pottery that not
only looks unique and beautiful, but is also practical for
everyday use. This is one of the best collections weve seen
anywhere and a foolproof gift-giving plan for anyone with
a kitchen.QA-3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 344 43 70, www.
vena-ceramika.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
The Global Blue Card

Your Passport to Great Savings,
The World Over (more information at gbs website)
1. You are a non-EU traveler
2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN
3. You export the purchased goods
outside of the EU
YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE

SHOPPING SERVICE
www.globalblue.com
One of Wrocaws
most centrally located
shopping malls, nd
Arkady
Wrocawskie
tucked not far behind
the train station. With
110 stores across 30,000
square metres, brand highlights of this upscale retail
centre include Marks & Spencer, Benetton, H&M, New
Yorker, Alma (the countrys upscale grocer) and more.
Other diversions you can seek out are the restaurants
and cafes, Multikino cinema, cushy childrens playpen
and a truly impressive two-storey aquarium. Within
walking distance of most places and easily accessed
by tram, once youre inside Arkady Wrocawskie,
good luck making your way out again.QA-5, ul.
Powstacw lskich 2-4, tel. (+48) 71 776 11 22,
www.arkadywroclawskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA DOMINIKASKA
Wrocaws most accessible and well-known retail monolith,
Galeria Dominikaska is a mere ve minutes east of the
Rynek, meaning youre likely to cross paths with it by
accident and youre probably going to get sucked in.
Among the 100 shops (including Zara, Pull & Bear, Max
Mara, VAN GRAAF, Media Markt and an iSpot) youll also nd
some restaurants (Pizza Hut, Ohh! Sushi & Grill), a beauty
salon (ManiPedi), and we dont even need to tell you what
else because youre already inside, youre on an escalator,
youre making eyes with a mannequin, you want to touch
everything, taste it, try it on. The guide is going back in your
pocket, the wallet is coming out...QC-3, Pl. Dominikaski
3, tel. (+48) 71 344 95 17, www.galeria-dominikanska.pl.
Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA HANDLOWA SKY TOWER
You may have noticed Wrocaw has beefed up its skyline,
realising the arrival of its rst bona de skyscraper with
Sky Tower, the sparkling 212m three-tiered behemoth you
see looming over the city just minutes south of the centre.
Comprising a small city in and of itself with residential
apartments, oce and retail space, the podium level alone
boasts three oors full of boutique shops, restaurants,
cafes, services and sports facilities. Here youll nd over
80 top name brands, over a dozen restaurants and cafes,
a supermarket, tness centre and spa, Banda Club - the
largest billiards club in the country, a 24-lane bowling alley,
and plenty more. The design is at gorgeous and features
an incredible interactive wall gallery on the rst oor and a
surreal Salvador Dali sculpture outside the front entrance.
Park your vehicle in one of the 1500 spots or take trams 7 or
20, getting o at Wielka.QE-6, ul. Powstacw lskich
95, tel. (+48) 71 738 31 11, www.galeria.skytower.pl.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Shopping
RENOMA
When completed in 1930, this
consumer showpiece represented interwar Wrocaw/Breslaus prosperity and splendour:
a towering monument of European modernism, Renoma was
the largest, most cutting-edge department store in this
part of the continent selling high quality goods unavailable
elsewhere. Designed by Berlin architect Hermann Dernburg, and initially known as Wertheims after the Berlin
family that owned the company, the building was added
to the Register of Historical Monuments in 1977 and has
now been restored and modernised for todays retail market. The unique facade of ceramic tiles and gilded heads
has been returned to its former glory while inside youll
nd todays most cutting-edge brands, plus a third oor
restaurant that oers ne views of the Old Town with the
Opera House in the foreground. Along with the original
buildings refurbishment, a new modern wing was added
on Plac Czysty which connects to the original structure via
a glass atrium. Easily outclassing the citys other shopping
malls and smack in the centre, if it was in our disposition
to call a shopping mall a must-see attraction, this would
t the bill.QA-4, ul. widnicka 40, tel. (+48) 71 772 58
20, www.renoma-wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
83
Directory
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
Currency exchange oces (Kantor) are easy to nd
in Wrocaw, but as with any international destination,
its imperative to check the rates to ensure you arent
getting eeced. The general rule is you should never
change your money at city entry points, particularly
at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To
help put your mind and your wallet at ease, weve
assembled a list of well-located exchange oces that
wont rip you o, and dont take a commission.
KANTORQE-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel.
(+48) 71 338 53 65. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00
- 20:00.
CONSULATES & EMBASSIES

AUSTRIAQul. Gagarina 34, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 841
00 81, www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.
BULGARIAQAl. Ujazdowskie 33/35, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 629 40 71.
DENMARKQul. Marszakowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk.
FRANCEQul. Pikna 1, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 529 30
00, www.ambafrance-pl.org.
GERMANYQC-4, ul. Podwale 76, tel. (+48) 71 377 27
00, www.breslau.diplo.de.
KANTORQB-3, ul. Oawska 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 10

78. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
MEXICOQAl. Jerozolimskie 123A, Warsaw, tel. (+48)

22 311 29 00, sre.gob.mx/polonia.
KANTOR CENTQB-3, ul. widnicka 3, tel. (+48) 71

372 35 02, www.centkantor.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00,
Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
NETHERLANDSQul. Kawalerii 10, Warsaw, tel. (+48)

22 559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
24HR PHARMACIES
SLOVAKIAQul. Litewska 6, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525

81 10, www.mzv.sk/varsava.
KATEDRALNA
QD-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71 322 73 15.
SWEDENQul. Bagatela 3, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 640 89

00, www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.
POD LWAMI
QA-2, Pl. Jana Pawa II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 24.
UKRAINEQAl. Szucha 7, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 622 47

97, poland.mfa.gov.ua.
24HR SHOPS
DELIKATESYQA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27.
UNITED KINGDOM
Qul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www.
gov.uk/government/world/poland.
DELIKATESY 24
QA-3, ul. w. Mikoaja 72, tel. (+48) 71 794 77 68.
DENTISTS
DELIKATESY REWEX
QA-5, ul. Bogusawskiego 69, tel. (+48) 71 367 06 81.
DENTAL ARTQA-6, ul. Komandorska 53a/3b, tel.

(+48) 71 373 22 66, www.dental-art.pl.
BUSINESS ASSOCIATIONS
PRESTIGE DENTQB-3, ul. Oawska 9, tel. (+48) 663 67

77 77, www.prestigedent.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
BRITISH POLISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

QE-4, ul. Legnicka 51-53, tel. (+48) 71 733 13 75, www.
bpcc.org.pl.
EMERGENCY ROOM
LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

QA-4, ul. widnicka 39, tel. (+48) 71 344 78 25, www.
dig.wroc.pl.
THE LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF CRAFT
QA-3, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71 344 86 91, www.izba.
wroc.pl.
WESTERN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QA-3, ul. Oar Owicimskich 41/43, tel. (+48) 71 795
06 56, www.zig.pl.
4 WOJSKOWY SZPITAL KLINICZNY

Qul. Weigla 5 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 261 660 373,
www.4wsk.pl.
DOLNOLSKI SZPITAL SPECJALISTYCZNY CENTRUM MEDYCYNY RATUNKOWEJ
QH-5, ul. Traugutta 116, tel. (+48) 71 789 02 00, www.
szpital-marciniak.wroclaw.pl.
@InYourPocket
Directory
INTERNET CAFES
CZATERWKA
QB-3, ul. Szewska 75/77, tel. (+48) 609 57 53 34. Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
INTERMAX
QA-3, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71 794 05 73, www.
imx.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, 4z/hour.
POCZTA POLSKA
QB-3, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 38, www.pocztapolska.pl. Open 24hrs.
POCZTA POLSKA
QC-3, ul. Krasiskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 81. Open
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
PRIVATE CLINICS
LUX-MEDQE-4, ul. Legnicka 51/53, tel. (+48) 22 332
28 88, www.luxmed.pl.
MEDICOVER
QE-6, Powstacw lskich 7a, tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00,
www.medicover.com.
VITA CLINICQB-3, ul. Oawska 15, tel. (+48) 71 343 35
56, www.vita-wroclaw.com.pl.
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
ROMAN CATHOLIC PARISH OF ST. CHARLES
BOROMEUSZ
Home of the Pastoral Centre for English Speakers, St. Charles
Boromeusz in Fabryczna is essentially the headquarters of
Wrocaws international Catholic community. Englishlanguage masses take place Sundays at 16:00. The parish
also oers confession and priest services in English, Englishlanguage wedding ceremonies, etc. Visit their website for
more information.Qul. Krucza 58 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48)
71 361 52 65, www.pastoralcentre.pl.
Whats going on
in Poland?
Polish News
and
Entertainment
Friday 7th August 2015
Issue 26 (316)
Poland welcomes new President

Andrzej Duda
sworn in this week
hursday morning saw Andrzej

Duda sworn in as the sixth President of the Third Polish Republic.
Shortly after 10 oclock, those at the
National Assembly (Lower House) and the
Sejm (Upper House) stood to observe the
national anthem and watch the Law and
Justice (PiS) politician take his oath.
Taking over from former President
Bronislaw Komorowski, Mr Duda took
time to thank his colleagues and those
that had supported him by stating, Dear
compatriots. I am very touched. Thank you
very much. He also thanked the late (and
former President) Lech Kaczynski and
declared he would do everything to keep
his election promises and not disappoint
the public.
Reading from the Polish Constitution,
he stated, Assuming, by the will of
the Nation, the office of the President
of the Republic of Polish, I solemnly
swear to be faithful to the provisions
of the Constitution. I will steadfastly
safeguard the dignity of the Nation, the
independence and security of the State,
and the good of the Homeland and the
prosperity of its citizens shall forever
remain my supreme obligation.
Following on from the official ceremony,
Mr Duda went back over some of his preelection promises and vowed to honour
them. Amongst the most important
were his pledges to devise a bill aimed
at increasing the tax-free bracket and to
TVN24
POST OFFICES
Mr Duda addresses the public for the first time as President
submit draft legislation to lower the age

of retirement. I have not forgotten about
these issues, he said.
He also asked for mutual respect between
those of differing opinions, stating, We
must respect the rights of others without
imposing our opinions upon them ... We
must know how to have respect for each
other. And I say this especially here today
in the Sejm. Polish politicians must be
able to say this to themselves. I would like
us to build a mutual respect as that is the
cornerstone of a community. Only once we
have that cornerstone are we able to start
repairing Poland.
While a number of high-profile names
were present at the event including former
Prime Ministers Jan Krzysztof Bielecki
and Kazimierz Marcinkiewicz and former
President Lech Walesa, one noticeable

figure that was absent was President of
the European Council (and former PM)
Donald Tusk.
A government spokesmen told reporters,
As head of the European Council, Donald
Tusk has not received an invitation from
the president-elect and this decision should
be respected.
When quizzed on the decision, Donald
Tusks Political and Communications
Advisor Pawel Gras told TVN Mr Tusk
was, First and foremost the Head of the
European Council, not just the former PM.
Send comments and letters to
editor@newpolandexpress.pl
Jewellery
Ua^\
2[^cWX]VUa^\%
5^^S3aX]ZUa^\&
www.gdansk.findlocalgift.com
1^^ZbUa^\ $
RELOCATION COMPANIES
UNIVERSAL EXPRESS RELOCATIONS
International moving company (household goods,
personal eects, oce equipment).QAl. Jaworowa 14/2,
tel. (+48) 71 357 17 87, www.uer.pl.
TRANSLATORS
& INTERPRETERS
EXPRESS
Translates to and from most of European languages.
QE-5, ul. Pisudskiego 92, tel. (+48) 71 344 76 65, www.
tlumaczy.pl.
Get a round-up of the

major Polish news, business,
entertainment and sports
in English each week by
subscribing free to our PDF.
Visit us at
www.newpolandexpress.pl
85
Hotels
No matter what end of the price spectrum youre able to
entertain, in Wrocaw you have plenty of options from
5-star presidentials to budget boarding houses, boutique
B&Bs to boisterous hostels, historic apartments to business
suites. The market is positively ooded with hotel rooms
(well over 3,500), with several new options opening each
year. On our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com - we
list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and
around the Lower Silesian capital, with full descriptive
reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and
more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide
no longer allow us to include all of that content here as
we once did, however we still provide an updated list of
reputable hotels, apartments and hostels below. Sleep well.
CREAM OF THE CROP

MONOPOL
QA-4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 77,
www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl.
121 rooms
(107 singles, 107 doubles, 14 suites). PH6UF
KDXCw hhhhh
PLATINUM PALACE
Qul. Powstacw lskich 204 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 327
06 00, www.platinumpalace.pl. 46 rooms (41 singles,
41 doubles, 5 suites). PH6UFKDw
hhhhh
RADISSON BLU
QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00, www.
radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. 162rooms (13singles,
144 doubles, 5 apartments). PH6UFKD
hhhhh
SOFITEL WROCAW OLD TOWNQA-3, ul. w.
Mikoaja 67, tel. (+48) 71 358 83 00, www.sofitelwroclaw.com. 205 rooms (189 singles, 173 doubles,
15apartments). PH6UFKDw hhhhh
THE GRANARY LA SUITE HOTEL WROCLAW CITY
CENTER
QB-4, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 00, www.
thegranaryhotel.com. 46rooms (39singles, 39doubles,
7apartments). PH6UFKw hhhhh
UPMARKET
ART HOTEL
QA-2, ul. Kiebanicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 787 74 00, www.
arthotel.pl. 80 rooms (17 singles, 55 doubles, 6 suites,
1apartment). PH6UFLKX hhhh
BEST WESTERN PRIMAQA-2, ul. Kiebanicza 16-19,
tel. (+48) 71 782 55 55, www.bestwestern-prima.pl.
78rooms (77singles, 65doubles, 1apartment). PH
6UFLKD hhhh
DWR POLSKI
QA-3, ul. Kiebanicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 372 34 15,
www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. 28 rooms (24 singles,
22doubles, 4apartments). H6K hhhh
EUROPEUM
QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a, tel. (+48) 71
371 44 00, www.europeum.pl. 36 rooms (36 singles,
33doubles). PHUFKDw hhh
HOTEL JANA PAWA II
QC-2, ul. w. Idziego 2, tel. (+48) 71 327 14 00,
www.hotel-jp2.pl. 45 rooms (1 single, 43 doubles,
1apartment). PHULKD hhhh
HOTEL ORBIS WROCAW
QE-6, ul. Powstacw lskich 7, tel. (+48) 71 361 46
51, www.orbis.pl. 294 rooms (41 singles, 248 doubles,
5apartments). PH6ULKX hhhh
HP PARK PLAZA
QB-1, ul. Drobnera 11-13, tel. (+48) 71 320 84 00,
www.wroclaw.hotelepark.pl. 177 rooms (156 singles,
156doubles, 19suites, 2apartments). PH6UK
Dw hhhh
MERCURE WROCAW CENTRUM
QC-3, Pl. Dominikaski 1, tel. (+48) 71 323 27 00, www.
mercure.com. 151 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles,
7apartments). PH6UKw hhhh
Hotels
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
T Child-friendly
H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre
K Restaurant
L Guarded parking on site
D Sauna
w Wellness
6 Animal friendly
X Smoking rooms available
C Swimming pool
PARK HOTEL DIAMENT WROCAW

Qul. Muchoborska 10 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 735
03 50, www.hotelediament.pl. 132rooms (127singles,
115doubles, 5suites). PH6UFK hhhh
PURO HOTEL WROCAW
QE-4, ul. Wodkowica 6, tel. (+48) 71 772 51 00, www.
purohotel.pl. 102 rooms (102 singles, 97 doubles).
PH6ULK hhh
QUBUS HOTEL WROCAW
QB-3, ul. w. Marii Magdaleny 2, tel. (+48) 71 797
98 00, www.qubushotel.com. 83 rooms (83 singles,
62 doubles, 3 apartments). PH6UFKDC
hhhh
SCANDIC WROCAW
QA-5, ul. Pisudskiego 49/57, tel. (+48) 71 787 00
00, www.scandichotels.com. 164 rooms (164 singles,
164doubles). PH6UFKDX hhhh
SLEEPWALKER BOUTIQUE SUITES
QE-4, ul. w. Mikoaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 733 35 55 35,
www.sleepwalker.pl. 12 rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles,
9apartments). PHU
MID-RANGE
BUGATTI
Qul. Kosmonautw 328 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 349
35 23, www.hotelbugatti.pl. 20 rooms (17 singles,
17doubles, 3triples). PH6K hhh
CAMPANILE WROCAW STARE MIASTO
QA-1, ul. Jagiey 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00, www.
campanile-wroclaw.pl. 110 rooms (109 singles,
109doubles, 1apartment). PH6UK hhh
CENTRUM DIKUL
QA-2, ul. Cieszyskiego 17-19, tel. (+48) 71 796 77
66, www.dikul.pl. 32 rooms (22 singles, 9 doubles,
1apartment). PU hhh
87
Hotels
DUET
QA-3, ul. w Mikoaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785 51 00,
www.hotelduet.pl. 39 rooms (34 singles, 34 doubles,
5apartments). PH6K hhh
EUROPEJSKI
QB-5, ul. Pisudskiego 88, tel. (+48) 71 772 10 00, www.
europejskiwroclaw.pl. 95rooms (19singles, 64doubles,
12apartments). PH6UK hhh
IBIS STYLES WROCAW CENTRUM
QC-5/6, ul. Plac Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48
00, www.ibis.com. 133rooms (133singles, 108doubles,
21triples). PH6UL hhh
NOVOTEL
Qul. Wycigowa 35 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 339 80
51, www.accorhotels.com. 145 rooms (145 singles,
145doubles). PH6UK hhh
PATIO
QA-3, ul. Kiebanicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71 375 04 00,
www.hotelpatio.pl. 50 rooms (42 singles, 20 doubles,
8apartments). H6KX hhh
MONOPOL HOTEL
A pleasant stay
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Standing on the former

site of a 14th-century
Franciscan church &
monastery at ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (A-4), illustrious banker WallenbergPachaly and architect
Karol Grosser tore down the crumbling ruins in 1890
and built a neo-Baroque hotel and neo-Renaissance
trading house here, ocially opening it as the Hotel
Monopol in 1892. The decades that followed saw the
Monopol become the most famous hotel in town with
Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and even Hitler himself
staying here; a special balcony was added to room 113
so that Der Fuhrer could use it to address the crowds
below. In 1948, Pablo Picasso came to town for the
International Congress of Intellectuals in Defence of
Peace and painted Dove of Peace in his room. Zbigniew Cybulski - the Polish James Dean - also shot several famous movie scenes in the hotel.
Closed in 2006 and sold to the Likus Hotel & Restaurants Group, the Monopol was thoroughly renovated
and reopened in 2009. Rooms are immaculately decorated with turn-of-the-century antiques, and the building features two fabulous restaurants (Acquario and
Monopol), as well as two seasonal rooftop terrace bars
(La Terazza and Sky Bar). Once more the most exclusive
and luxurious hotel in town, if you can aord to sleep
in this historic locale youll nd that the experience is
worth the money.
Hotels
POLONIA
QA-5, ul. Pisudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343 10 21, www.
poloniawroclaw.pl. 107rooms (28singles, 79doubles).
6UK hhh
QUALITY SYSTEM HOTEL WROCAW
QH-1, Al. Kromera 16, tel. (+48) 71 364 97 00, www.
quality-hotels.pl. 107 rooms (100 singles, 77 doubles,
7apartments). PH6UKDCw hhh
SOFIA
QB-5, ul. Pisudskiego 104 (entrance from ul. Gwarna
23), tel. (+48) 71 372 32 00, www.hotelsofia.pl. 31rooms
(31singles, 31doubles). PH6UKDw hhh
TUMSKI
QC-2, Wyspa Sodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 99, www.
hotel-tumski.com.pl. 57rooms (14singles, 38doubles,
3triples, 1apartment). H6UK hhh
WODNIKQH-5, ul. Na Grobli 28, tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67,
www.wodnik-hotel.pl. 18 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles,
2suites). HK hhh
BUDGET
XO3RPRUVND:URFDZ
tel./fax 71 793 86 82
info@hotelcilantro.pl
AKIRA BED & BREAKFASTQF-2, Pl. Strzelecki 28,

tel. (+48) 71 323 08 88, www.hotelakira.pl. 21 rooms
(21singles, 17doubles, 2triples). 6U
B&B HOTEL
QB-4, ul. Piotra Skargi 24-28, tel. (+48) 71 324 09 80,
www.hotelbb.pl. 140rooms (140singles, 140doubles,
2triples, 2quads). PH6X hh
BOOGIE HOSTEL DELUXE
QA-3, ul. Biaoskrnicza 6, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72, www.
boogiehostel.com. 13 rooms (12 singles, 12 doubles,
1quad). 6
CILANTRO BED & BREAKFAST
QA-1, ul. Pomorska 32/26-29, tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82,
www.cilantro.pl. 9rooms (9singles, 9doubles, 3triples).
6L
HOTEL PIAST
QB-5, ul. Pisudskiego 98, tel. (+48) 71 343 00 33, www.
piastwroclaw.pl. 92 rooms (80 singles, 74 doubles,
12suites). H6UK hh
IBIS BUDGET WROCAW STADION
Qul. Lotnicza 151 (Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84
48, www.ibisbudget.com. 122 rooms (118 singles,
118doubles, 4triples). P6U h
youtube.com/inyourpocket
89
Hotels
SAVOY
QA-5, Pl. Kociuszki 19, tel. (+48) 71 344 30 71, www.
savoy-wroclaw.pl. 26 rooms (20 singles, 17 doubles,
4triples). 6
APARTMENTS
ART APART
QD-4, ul. Waloska 7/1, tel. (+48) 667 71 71 71, www.
artapart.pl. 50apartments. 6
EXCLUSIVE WORLD APARTMENTS
QB-3, ul. Krawiecka 6/4, tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www.
exclusiveapartments.pl. 65apartments. P
LEOAPART
QB-2, ul. Wizienna 21, tel. (+48) 71 330 71 21, www.
leoapart.com. 55apartments. 6LK
NEW
LUCKY APARTMENTS
QB-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 15, tel. (+48) 730 89 99 88, www.
luckyapart.pl/en. 20apartments. 6GW
SILVER APARTMENTS
QB-3, ul. Krawiecka 3, tel. (+48) 698 68 83 44, www.
silverapartments.pl. 29apartments. P6
HOSTELS
ABSYNT HOSTEL
QA-3, ul. w. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 691 40 54 05,
www.absynthostel.pl. 124rooms (2singles, 17doubles,
5triples, 4quads, 86apartments, 20dorm beds).
GUEST ROOMS, APARTMENT, HOSTEL

The Dairy, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie.
BOOGIE HOSTEL
QE-4, ul. Ruska 34, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72, www.
boogiehostel.com. 20 rooms (19 singles, 19 doubles,
19triples, 2quads, 8dorm beds). P6
CINNAMON
QB-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48) 71 344
58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. 10rooms (3singles,
3doubles, 44dorm beds). 6
GRAMPAS HOSTEL
QF-3, Pl. w. Macieja 2/1, tel. (+48) 71 321 92 40, www.
grampahostel.com. 9 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles,
48dorm beds).
HOSTEL BEMMA
QF-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 15, tel. (+48) 531 53
15 98, www.hostelbemma.pl. 17 rooms (11 singles,
11doubles, 25dorm beds). 6
ul. P. Wodkowica 5, 50 072 Wrocaw

tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl
e-mail: rezerwacja@mleczarniahostel.pl
HOSTEL KOMBINAT
QA-4, ul. widnicka 24/4, tel. (+48) 71 344 66 77, www.
hostelkombinat.pl. 5rooms (2doubles, 1triple, 13dorm
beds:).
Hotels
HOT BEER?
There are a number of ways to survive the winter in
Poland, and weve tried them all, from dressing up like
an Eskimo to staying in bed and refusing to get dressed
at all. Of all the methods known, however, none rewards
as much as a pint of grzane piwo. Thats hot beer in
laymans terms - essentially a frothing hot pint spiced
with articial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other
mulling spices. For some an acquired taste, for others an
early Christmas present and others still an utter profanity,
but an invention necessary for everyone to try at least
once. There are a couple things to consider with regards
to hot beer: Firstly, it takes a while (5-10 minutes) to
properly heat the drink without exploding it, so prepare
to wait and be patient. Secondly there is a tendency to
immediately stab a straw into the glass to mix the syrup
at the bottom throughout the drink. If the beverage is too
hot this will result in it erupting all over you. This common
rookie mistake is an event many twisted bartenders wait
for with relish; you can avoid it by simply letting your
drink cool slightly and gingerly testing its reaction to the
straw. [Were telling you this to save you some face. Ours
has had egg on it too many times.] Similarly popular is
grzane wino - or mulled wine - as youll notice by the
all the places selling it during Decembers Christmas
market. A popular brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you
enjoy drinking it in public so much, youll be delighted to
discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and
easily prepare it at home as well.
MLECZARNIAQE-4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71
787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. 8rooms (4singles,
4doubles, 4triples, 1quad, 34dorm beds).
MOON HOSTELQA-3, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance
from Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00,
www.moonhostel.pl/wroclaw. 26 rooms (10 doubles,
7triples, 4quads, 2 5-person rooms, 2 6-person room, 1
8-person room). 6L
HOTEL | CONGRESS CENTRE | RESTAURANT
THE ONE HOSTELQB-3, ul. Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 71

337 24 02, www.onehostel.pl. 20 rooms (6 singles,
6doubles, 2quads, 112dorm beds). H
WRATISLAVIAQC-5, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel.
(+48) 71 360 08 22, www.hostel-wratislavia.pl. 33rooms
(2singles, 5doubles, 3triples, 16quads, 10apartments,
40dorm beds). 6U
www.terminalhotel.pl
AIRPORT HOTEL
TERMINAL HOTEL
Qul. Rakietowa 33 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 773
55 75, www.terminalhotel.pl. 52rooms (52singles,
52doubles). PH6UK hhh
XO5DNLHWRZD}:URFDZ
tel.: + 48 71 773 55 75, biuro@terminalhotel.pl
91
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to sleep, eat, drink,
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Street Register
Al. Armii Krajowej
F-7, H-7
Al. Boya-eleskiego
H-1
Al. Kochanowskiego
I-3
Al. Kromera
H-1
Al. Matejki
G-3
Al. Sowackiego
G-4
Anny, w.
C-2
Antoniego, w.
A-3
Arrasowa
B-4
Bauckiego
A-5
Bauckiego
F-5
Barlickiego
G-2
Barycka
D-1
Barycka
G-3
Baudouina de Courtenay
I-2
Bema
G-3
Bema, gen.
C-1
Bema, gen., pl.
C-1
Benedyktyska
F-3, G-3
Berenta
H-1
Bernardyska
C-3
Bernardyska
G-4
Biaoskrnicza
A-2
Biskupia
B-3
Biskupia
F-4
Bogusawskiego
A/B-5
Bogusawskiego
F-5
Bohaterw Getta, pl.
A-3
Bolesawa Chrobrego
F-2/3
Borna, pl.
A-1
Borowska
A-6
Borowska
F-6
Boego Ciaa
A/B-4
Boego Ciaa
F-5
Braniborska
E-4
Brodatego Henryka
B-1
Browarna
G-1/2
Brzeska
D-6
Brzeska
H-6
Bulwar Dunikowskiego
G-4
Bulwar Wostowica
G-4
Ciepa
F-6/7
Cieszkowskiego
I-2
Cieszyskiego
A-2
Cieszyskiego
F-4
Curie-Skodowskiej
H-4, I-4
Cybulskiego
A/B-1/2
Cybulskiego
F-3
Czerwonego Krzya
I-3
Czesawa, b.
B-3
Czysta
B-4/5
Czysta
F-5
Czysty, pl.
A/B-4
Dbrowskiego
G-5
Dbrowskiego, gen.
C-5
Daszyskiego
G-2, H-2/3
Dawida
G-6
Dbickiego
F-2
Duga
E-3
Dmowskiego
E-3
Dobra
E-4
Dobrzyska
D-4
Dobrzyska
G-4
Dolna
G-2
Dominikaski, Pl.
C-3
Doroty, w.
A-4
Drobnera
B/C-1
Drobnera
F-3, G-3
Druckiego-Lubeckiego
A-4
Druckiego-Lubeckiego
F-5
Drukarska
E-6/7
Drzewna
E-4
Dubois
A/B-1
Dubois
F-3
Dworcowa
B/C-5
Dworcowa
G-5
Dyrekcyjna
B/C-6
Dyrekcyjna
F-6
Elbiety, w.
A-3
Flisacka
E-2, F-2
Franciszkaska
A-4
Franciszkaski, pl.
A-4
Frycza-Modrzewskiego
C-2/3
Gajowa
C-6
Garbary
A/B-2
Garncarska
C-3
Gdaska
H-3
Gepperta
A-3
Gliniana
F-6, G-6
Gnienieska
E-2
Grnickiego
H-3
Grabiszyska
E-5
Grodzka
B/C-2
Grodzka
F-4, G-4
Grunwaldzka
H-3/4, I-3
Grunwaldzki, pl
C/D-3/4
Gwarna
B-5
Gwarna
F-5
Hauke-Bosaka
G-5
Haukego-Bosaka
C/D-4
Henryka Brodatego
F-3
Henryka Pobonego
F-3
Henrykowska
G-7
Hercena
C-5
Hercena
G-5
Hlonda, kard.
D-2
Hoene-Wroskiego
H-4
Hubska
C-6
Hubska
G-6/7
Chemiczna
H-3
Chudoby
H-6
Idziego, w.
C/D-2
Igielna
A/B-3
Igielna
F-4
Inowrocawska
E-3
Jadwigi, w.
C-2
Jagiey
E-3
Janickiego
C-3
Janickiego
G-4
Janiszewskiego
H-4
Jatki
A-2
Jczmienna
E-5
Jednoci Narodowej
B/C-1
Jednoci Narodowej F-3, G-2/3, H-2
Joannitw
B-6
Joannitw
F-6
Jodowa
B-3
Joliot-Curie
D-2/3
Joliot-Curie
G-4, H-4
Jzefa, w.
D-2
Kamienna
E-7, G-7
Kanonia
C/D-2
Kapistrana, w.
C-3
Kapitulna
D-2
Kard. Hlonda
G-3
Kard. Wyszyskiego G-3/4, H-2/3
Kaszubska
F-3
Katarzyny, w.
B/C-3
Katedralna
C/D-2
Katedralna
G-3/4
Katedralny, pl.
D-2
Kazimierza Jagielloczyka
F-3
Kazimierza Wielkiego
A/B-3/4
Kazimierza Wielkiego
F-4
Kaznodziejska
B-3
Kiebanicza
A-2/3
Kiebanicza
F-4
Kiliskiego
C-1
Kiliskiego
G-3
Kleczkowska
F-2
Kluczborska
G-2
Kniaziewicza
C-5
Kniaziewicza
G-5
Kolejowa
E-5
Kotaja
B-4/5
Komandorska
A-5/6
Komandorska
F-6
Kominka, kard.
D-2
Komuny Paryskiej
C/D-5/6
Komuny Paryskiej
G-5
Konstytucji 3 Maja, pl.
B/C-5/6
Kocielny, pl.
C-2
Kociuszki
A-5
Kociuszki
F-5, G-5
Kociuszki, pl.
A/D-4/6
Kotlarska
A/B-3
Kotlarska
F-4
Kraiskiego
C-2/3
Krakowska
H-6, I-7
Krasiskiego
B/C-3/4
Krasiskiego
G-5
Kraszewskiego
F-2
Krawiecka
B-3
Krta
F-2, G-2
Krowia
B-3
Krowia
F-4
Krupnicza
A-3
Krupnicza
F-4
Krzysztofa, w., pl.
B-4
Krzywa
H-3
Ksicia Witolda
F-3
Kurkowa
A-1
Kurkowa
F-3
Kurzy Targ
B-3
Kurzy Targ
F-4
Kunicza
B-2/3
Kunicza
F-4
aciarska
B-2/3
aciarska
F-4
adna
H-3/4
ka Mazurska
H-1, I-1
kowa
A-4
kowa
F-5
azienna
A-2
azienna
F-4
Ledochowskiego
D-1
Legnicka
E-4
Lelewela
E-5
Leszczyskiego
A-3
Lniana
G-7
dzka
F-6/7
okietka Wadysawa
B-1
Lubuska
E-5
ukasiskiego
D-5
ukasiskiego
G-5
Macieja, w., pl.
B-1
Maachowskiego
C-6
Maachowskiego
F-5, G-5
Malarska
A-2
Marcina, w.
C-2
Marii Magdaleny, w.
B-3
Marsz. Pisudskiego
E-5, F-5
Matejki, al.
D-1
Mazowiecka
D-3/4
Mazowiecka
G-4/5
Mennicza
A/B-4
Mennicza
F-5
Miernicza
D-5
Miernicza
G-5
Mieszczaska
A-1
Mieszczaska
E-3, F-3
Mieszka I
C-1/2
Mieszka I
G-3
Michalczyka
E-3
Mikoaja, w.
A-3
Mia
H-3/4
Minkowskiego
H-3/4
Moda
H-6
Modych Technikw
E-3
Modrzejewskiej
A-4
Modrzejewskiej
F-5
Muzealna
A-4
Muzealna
F-5
Myliwska
F-3
Na Grobli
H-5
Na Niskich kach
H-6, I-6
Na Szacach
C-1
Na Szacach
G-3
Nabyciska
E-4
Najwitszej Marii Panny
C-2
Namysowska
G-2
Nankiera, bp., pl.
B/C-2
Nasypowa
A-5
Nasypowa
E-5, F-5
Nauczycielska
H-4
Nehringa
H-4
Niemcewicza
C-1
Niemcewicza
G-2/3
Nobla
F-3
Norwida
H-4
Nowa
B/C-4
Nowa
F-5, G-5
Nowowiejska
H-3
Nowy wiat
A-2
Nowy wiat
F-4
Nowy Targ, pl.
B-3
Noownicza
B-2/3
Noownicza
F-4
Nyska
G-7, H-7
Odrzaska
A-2/3
Odrzaska
F-4
Oar Owicimskich
A/B-3
Oar Owicimskich
F-4
Oawska
B-3, C-4
Oawska
F-4, G-4
Obiska
G-2/3
Olenicka
G-3
Orzeszkowej
H-2/3
Otmuchowska
G-7, I-7
Otwarta
A-1
Otwarta
F-3
Owsiana
E-5
Pabianicka
F-6
Pasterska
E-1, G-1, H-2
Pauliska
A/B-1
Pauliska
F-3
Pawa Wodkowica
E-4
Pawowa
E-5
Pestalozziego
G-3
Piaskowa
C-2/3
Piaskowa
G-4
Piastowska
H-3/4
Pisudskiego, marsz.
A/B-5
Piwna
H-4
Plac Bema
G-3
Plac Borna
F-3
Plac Dominikaski
G-4
Plac Franciszkaski
F-4
Plac Grunwaldzki
H-4, I-4
Plac J. Szeli
E-5
Plac Jana Pawa II
E-4
Plac Katedralny
G-4
Plac Legionw
E-5
Plac Nowy Targ
B-3
Plac Orlt Lwowskich
E-4
Plac Polski
G-4
Plac Powstacw lskich
E-7
Plac Powstacw Warszawy G-4
Plac Powstacw Wielkopolskich
F-2
Plac Rozjezdny
E-5
Plac Sowiaski
G-2
Plac Solny
F-4
Plac Strzelecki
F-2
Plac w. Krzysztofa
F-4
Plac w. Mikoaja
E-3
Plac Teatralny
F-5
Plac Uniwersytecki
F-4
Plac Westerplatte
H-3
Plac Wrblewskiego
G-5
Plac Zgody
H-5
Podwale
A/C-3/5
Podwale
E-4, F-3, G-4/5
Podwrcowa
F-3
Polaka
H-4
Polski, pl.
C-3
Pomorska
A-1
Pomorska
F-3
Poniatowskiego
G-3
Poniatowskiego, ks.
C-1
Portowa
E-2
Powstacw lskich
A-5/6
Powstacw lskich
E-6
Powstacw Warszawy pl.
D-3
Prdzyskiego
G-5, H-5
Prdzyskiego, Igancego, gen.
D-5/6
Pretcza
E-6/7
Probusa
F-3
Probusa Henryka
B-1
Prosta
E-5
Prusa
C/D-1
Prusa
G-3, H-3
Przejcie Garncarskie
A/B-3
Przejcie elanicze
A/B-3
Przeskok
D-1
Przeskok
G-3
Ptasia
F-3
Psie Budy
A-3
Psie Budy
F-4
Pszenna
E-5
Puaskiego
G-5/6
Puaskiego, gen.
C/D-4/6
Purkyniego, Jana Ewangelisty
C/D-3
Rakowiecka
I-5/6
Reja
H-3/4
Rejtana
B-5
Rejtana
F-5
Reymonta
F-2
Roentgena
H-3/4
Roosevelta
G-2/3
Rostaskiego
B-1
Rostaskiego
F-3
Rozbrat
H-3
Ruska
A-3
Ruska
E-4, F-4
Rybacka
E-4
Rydygiera
B-1
Rydygiera
F-3
Rychtalska
G-2
Rynek
A-3
Rynek
F-4
Rzenicza
A-2/3
Rzenicza
F-4
Sdowa
E-5
Siemieskiego
F-2
Sienkiewicza
C/D-1
Sienkiewicza
G-3, H-3, I-3
Sikorskiego
E-4
Skargi
F-5
Skargi, ks.
B-4
Skadowa
A-1
Skadowa
F-3
Skwerowa
A-6
lna
A/B-6
Sodowa
C-2
Sowackiego, al.
C/D-3
Sowackiego, wybrzee
D-3/4
Sowiaska
G-2
Smoluchowskiego
H-4, I-4
niadeckich
I-3
Solny, pl.
A-3
Sopocka
H-3, I-3
Srocza
F-3
rodkowa
E-4
rutowa
B-1
Staromyska
C-2
Stawowa
B-5
Stranicza
A/B-2
Stysia
E-5
Sucha
B/C-6
Sucha
F-6, G-6
Sudecka
E-7
Sukiennice
A/B-3
w. Anny
F-3, G-3
w. Antoniego
E-4, F-4
w. Doroty
F-4/5
w. Ducha
C-2
w. Ducha
G-4
w. Jadwigi
G-3/4
w. Jzefa
G-4
w. Katarzyny
F-4, G-4
w. Mikoaja
E-4, F-4
w. Wincentego
F-2/3
widnicka
A/B-3/5
widnicka
F-5
wiebodzka
E-5
witokrzyska
C/D-1/2
witokrzyska
G-3
wistackiego
D-6
wistackiego
G-5/6
Swobodna
A-6
Swobodna
E-5, F-5/6
Szajnochy
A-3
Szajnochy
F-4
Szarzyskiego
H-3
Szczepiska
E-4
Szczytnicka
D-2
Szczytnicka
G-4, H-4
Szewska
B-2/4
Teatralna
B-4
Teatralna
F-5
Teatralny, pl.
A-4
Traugutta
C/D-4/5
Traugutta
G-5, H-5
Trzebnicka
B-1
Trzebnicka
F-2/3
Ukryta
H-3
Uniwersytecka
B-2
Uniwersytecka
F-4
Uniwersytecki, pl.
B-2
Ustronie
G-2
Walecznych
H-3
Waloska
D-4
Waloska
G-5
Warzywnicza
C-1
Wska
A/B-1
Wesoa
F-6
Widok
B-4
Widok
F-4/5
Wickowskiego
H-5/6
Wieczysta
F-7, G-7
Wierzbowa
B-4
Wierzbowa
F-4/5
Wizienna
B-2
Wizienna
F-4
Wita Stwosza
B-3
Wita Stwosza
F-4
Wita, w.
B-3
Witolda, ks.
A/B-2
Wadysawa okietka
F-3
Wodkowica
E-4
Wodna
B-2
Wolnoci, pl.
A-4
Worcella
C/D-4/5
Worcella
G-5
Wrblewskiego, pl.
D-4
Wrocawczyka
H-4
Wybrzee ConradaKorzeniowskiego
F-2
Wybrzee Sowackiego
H-4/5
Wybrzee Wyspiaskiego
H-4
Wygodna
G-2
Wyspa
C-2
Wyszyskiego, kard.
D-1/2
Zachodnia
E-3
Zakadowa
F-2, G-2
Zaolziaska
A-6
Zaolziaska
F-6
Zapolskiej
A-5
Zapolskiej
F-5
Zaporoska
E-5/6
Zauek Wolski
A-5
eromskiego
D-1
Zgodna
H-5
Zieliskiego
E-5/6
iki
E-3
Zyndrama z Maszkowic
A-1/2
Zyndrama z Maszkowic E-3, F-3
ytnia
E-5
93
Index
Absynt Hostel
90
Active Poland
74
Ahimsa Restaurant & Club 39
Akira Bed & Breakfast
89
Akropolis
25
Ambasada
48
Amorinio
42
Antyki przy Szewskiej
79
Aquarelle
26
Archaeology Museum
58
Archdiocese Museum
66
Architecture Museum
58
Arkady Wrocawskie
82
ARomaTy
42
Art Apart
90
Art Cafe Kalambur
50
Art Hotel
86
Art Restauracja & Kawiarnia 36
Barka Tumska
26, 30
Baszta
40
Baszta Niedwiadka
61
B&B Hotel
89
Bema Cafe
30, 42
Bernard
26
Best Western Prima
86
Bezsenno
50
Bike Cafe
74
Bike & Scooter Rental
74
Bistro Naronik
7
BLT & Flatbreads
23
Bobolandia
75
Boogie Hostel
90
Boogie Hostel Deluxe
89
Botanical Garden
66
Brasserie 27
28
Breadway
30
Bugatti
87
Buka z Masem
42
Cafe Borwka
43
Campanile Wrocaw Stare
Miasto
87
Capri Ristorante Pizzeria
33
Cathedral of St. John the
Baptist
66
Centennial Hall & Discovery
Centre
69
Centennial Hall Parking
68
Central Cafe
30
Centrum Dikul
87
Cepelia
82
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 75
Charlotte Chleb i Wino
43
Chatka Przy Jatkach
36
Church of Saints Peter & Paul
65
Church of the Holy Cross / St.
Bartholomew's
65
Cilantro Bed & Breakfast
89
Cinnamon
90
CI Cafe
73
Cocofli
43
Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky
45
Czary Mary
28
Darea Sushi Korean - Japanese
Restaurant
34
De' Molika
80
Dobra Karma
28
Do Jutra
45
Domwka
50
Duet
88
Dwr Polski
36, 86
Empik Megastore
80
Eter Club
50
Ethnographic Museum
58
Europejski
88
Europeum
86
Exclusive World Apartments 90
Food Art Gallery
28
Free Walking Tour Foundation
55
Fu-Ku
81
Funboat
76
Galeria Dominikaska
82
Galeria Handlowa Sky Tower 82
Galeria Schubert
79
Giselle French Bakery Cafe 30
Grampa's Hostel
90
Grey Music Club
50
Hala Targowa
79
Hortyca
39
Hostel Bemma
90
Hostel Kombinat
90
Hotel Jana Pawa II
86
Hotel Orbis Wrocaw
86
Hotel Piast
89
HP Park Plaza
86
Ibis Budget Wrocaw Stadion
89
Ibis Styles Wrocaw Centrum
88
Iglica
69
Infowro Jatki Wrocaw
57
Jacek i Agatka
40
JaDka
36
Japanese Garden
70
Karczma Lwowska
37
Kawiarnia Literatka
43
Knajpa Kres
39
Konspira
37, 59
Kontynuacja
45
KRVN
46
Kwatera Gwna
74
La Dolce Vita
33
La Maddalena
35
La Scala
33
Las/Zupa
27
Le Bistrot Parisien
25
Le Chef
29
Le Mans
74
Leoapart
90
Lower Silesian Cultural
Information Centre
57
Lucky Apartments
90
Lwia Brama
29
Machina Organika
40
Macondo
7
Mahi Mahi
34
Maana Cafe
51
Mango Mama
7
Marina
29
Marynka Piwo i Aperitivo 46
Masala Indian Restaurant 25
Mercure Wrocaw Centrum 86
Military Museum
59
Mi
40
Mleczarnia
46, 91
Moaburger
23
MOHER Vintage & Design 81
Monopol
86
Monopol Spa & Wellness
Centre
76
Monument to the Victims of
the Katy Massacre
57
Moon Hostel
91
Municipal Swimming Pools 76
Najadacze.pl
40
Nalanda
41
National Museum
59
Neon Side Club & Gallery 46
New Jewish Cemetery
72
Niebo Cafe
46
Nietota
51
Novotel
88
Od Koochni
7
OK Wine Bar
29
Old Havana Cigar Shop &
Lounge
46, 78
One of the colorful characters youll meet in Nadodrze (see page 6).
Index
Old Jewish Cemetery
73
Padbar
47
Papa Bar
47
Park Hotel Diament Wrocaw
87
Partisan Hill
61
Passenger Cruises
76
Patelnia
27
Patio
88
Pierogarnia Stary Myn
37
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa
48
Piwnica widnicka
37
PiwoCzas
78
Plac Targowy wiebodzki 79
Platinum Palace
86
Pod Fredr
38
Pod Latarniami
47
Pod Papugami
30, 48
Polish Poster Gallery
80
Polonia
89
Post & Communications
Museum
59
Powoli
7
PRIV
51
Przysta
30
PURO Hotel Wrocaw
87
Quality System Hotel Wrocaw
89
Qubus Hotel Wrocaw
87
Quchnia Polska
38
Racawice Panorama
60
Radisson Blu
86
Renoma
83
Restauracja Acquario
30
Restauracja Europejska
30
Restauracja Monopol
38
Restauracja Patio
32
ROCK Burger
23
Rodeo Grill Steak House
24
Sakana Sushi Bar
34
Sarah
34
Savoy
90
Scandic Wrocaw
87
Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej 48
Sezam
75
Shopiq
80
Silver Apartments
90
SkyBowling
75
Sky Tower
57
SleepWalker Boutique Suites
87
Sodkie Czary Mary
81
Soczewka
24
Sofia
89
Sofitel Wrocaw Old Town 86
Stare Jatki
62
Stary Klasztor
32
Steinhaus
35
St. Elizabeth's Church

56
St. Martin's Church
65
St. Mary Magdalene's Church
56
Sukiennice 7
32
Szajba
48
Szczytnicki Park
71
Szklarnia
48
Szlak Gondoli
76
Sztrass Burger
24
Szynkarnia
48
Tajne Komplety
80
Taverna Espaola
38
Terminal Hotel
91
The Anonymous Pedestrians
57
The Bente Kahan Foundation
73
The Granary La Suite Hotel
Wroclaw City Center
86
The Naked Swordsman
57
The One Hostel
91
The Ossolineum
62
The Royal Palace, History
Museum
60
The White Stork Synagogue 73
The Winners Pub
49
Tourist Information
57
Town Hall, Museum of
Burgher Art
60
Tumski
89
University Church of the
Blessed Name of Jesus
56
Upominki
82
Va Bene Trattoria
35
Vega
41
Vena Pottery
82
Vertigo Jazz Club & Restaurant
32, 50
Vinyl Cafe
43
Water Tower
63
Wicar's Pub
49
Wizienna Pub
49
Wincentego 21
7
Wodnik
89
Wodnik Restaurant
33
Wratislavia
91
Wratislavia Tour
55
Wrocaw Aquapark
76
Wrocaw City Tours
55
Wrocaw Contemporary
Museum
61
Wrocaw Fountain
70
Wrocaw - Silesia Tours
55
Wrocaw University
58
Wrocaw Zoo
68
Ze Miso
41
ZZ Top
27
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FEATURES INDEX
Breakfast
Currency Exchange
Facts & Figures
Flower Power
Hot Beer?
Konspira
Language Smarts
Live Music
Market Square
Market Values
Milk Bars
Monopol Hotel
Nadodrze
Neon Wrocaw
Pasa Niepolda
Polish Food
Polish Snacks & Shots
Polish Vodka
Polski Venice?
Quick Eats
Racawice Panorama
Sky Tower
Street Art
The Lamplighter
The Maluch
Tipping Tribulations
Wait, Where Am I?
Wrocaw Historical Timeline
Wrocaw IYP Online
Wroclaw University
30
84
12
35
91
59
13
50
56
12
40
88
6
62
49
38
48
80
66
27
60
57
61
65
53
32
55
15
63
58
95
street mural
water equipment rental
marina
Jewish cemetery
view point

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Arrival & Transport

Culture & Events

City Centre Map

The Old Town

Maps & Index

September - December 2015

Copyright Notice & Editors Note

With such rich cultural oerings elsewhere in the

Wrocaw In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple

Head uptown, north across the wide murky band of

Wrocaw In Your Pocket

If youve ever wondered what stepping into a Gabriel

the previous extensive choice of lunches has given way

Arrival & Transport

Wrocaw is on the up and up as regards transport. Served

Wrocaw In Your Pocket

orange-yellow paint - and while not necessarily the colour

Arrival & Transport

September - December 2015

Arrival & Transport

Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,

A stop on the Eurolines international coach network,

The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities

TEMPORARY BUS STATION

One of the only major highways in the country, the A4

Most hotels and hostels are within a 15min walk, but to

Parking lots are marked on the map in the back of our

Internationally trusted service

A wide range of cars from

Arrival & Transport

* NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED,

September - December 2015

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

HEALTH & EMERGENCY

McDonald's Big Mac

of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by

LAW & ORDER

Polish Words & Phrases

(Mam nah ee-myeh)

September - December 2015

During the War of Austrian Succession, the Kingdom of

The ood of 1997.

Photo by Piotr Hawaej

Soviet Union and the forced expulsion of Wrocaws

990: Piast Duke Mieszko I seizes Silesia, incorporating

Culture & Events

Whats going on?

Culture & Events

September - December 2015

Culture & Events

Culture & Events

Culture & Events

Culture & Events

September - December 2015

The diversity and quality of restaurants in Wrocaw is ever

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

X Smoking room available