Weekend

DIY projects
Horizontal picket
erecting a wooden fence
Garden gate building
a wooden gate
Patio paving laying
a patio
Pebble pathway laying
a garden path
Potting bench making
a handy potting
work station
Stacker water feature
using pots to create
a contemporary water
feature
Wall garden using
guttering to construct
a vertical wall garden
Adirondack patio chairs
making comfortable
wooden loungers

Tools, DIY, Hardware & Storage

Contents

Erecting a wooden fence .................................................................. 2

Building a wooden gate ................................................................... 6

Laying a patio ................................................................................ 11

Laying a garden path ...................................................................... 14

Making a handy potting work station ................................................... 17

Using pots to create a contemporary water feature ................................ 21

Using guttering to construct a wall garden ........................................... 25

Making comfortable wooden furniture ................................................. 29

Erecting a wooden fence

A wooden fence is simple to construct yet has cosmetic appeal
and can be a great privacy screen and animal barrier. The design
weve chosen is 1 m high with posts 750 mm apart (you could
extend this to a maximum of 1.2 m, depending on the length of
the fence and its aesthetics). Our fence incorporates a gate (see
page 7) and extends from a building to a retaining wall.

1 PERSON

HOW TO

2 DAYS

SAFETY GEAR

SKILL

Safety glasses
Gloves
Ear protection

CUTTING LIST
FENCE POSTS
1

(69 x 69 mm):
3 x 1200 mm

HORIZONTAL PLANKS
1 Cut your wood to size or have the measurements with you when
buying it from your local Builders store and have it cut to size.
Cut the 3 fence posts from the 69 x 69 mm beams and the 33
planks from the 96 x 22 planks.
2

(96 x 22 mm):
33 x 750 mm

Level the ground along the

fence line so you wont
have problems with your
bottom row of planks not
fitting nicely. Your fence
will look much better if you
do this.

What you
will need:
- Circular saw

- Power screwdriver
- Power drill

- Assorted wood drill bits

2 Coat all the wood with primer, if it is going to be painted, or

with sealant, if the finish is natural.

- Sander
- Line level & spirit level
- Paintbrush
- Tape measure & pencil
- Garden spade
- 2x adjustable clamps
(to hold up to 150 mm)
- Carpenters square
- Builders line

- Treated SA pine
(see cutting list)

- Wood screws
(deck screws)
- Wood primer or sealer
- Brush and paint pot
- Exterior enamel paint
- Post caps (optional)
- Metal garden stakes
(slightly larger than the height
of the fence)
- 20 x 20 x 500 mm wood
spacers for fitting planks
- Cement and river sand

3
3 Drive a metal stake into the ground at each end of the fence

line. Tie the builders line to one of the stakes at the height youve
chosen for the top of the fence (1000 mm in our case), and stretch
it tightly across to the other stake (without pulling the first stake
over). Tie it to the second stake, making sure it is level as you will
be using it as a guide for both the top of your fence and the fence
posts.
3

If you are having trouble

getting the tops of your
posts level with the
builders line, insert them
so they stand proud of
the line and then cut them
down to the right height
once the cement has set.
Remember to prime the
tops of the posts after
cutting them.

4
4 Dig three 250 x 250 mm holes, 300 mm deep, for your fence

posts and fill them 2/3 of the way with 1 part cement, 4 parts
river sand and water, mixed to the consistency of porridge. Push
the posts into the mixture, checking with your builders line to make
sure they are the right height. Leave overnight for the cement to set,
then backfill the holes with the removed soil and stamp down.

6
6 Working from the top down,

5
5 On each post, draw a line down the centre of the face onto
which you will be attaching the planks. This will guide you when it
comes to placing and fastening the planks.
4

place the first plank between

two posts, making sure its upper
edge is level with the tops of
the posts and that the ends line
up with the mid-point lines on
the posts. Fasten the plank in
place with two clamps.

9
7
7 Drill two evenly spaced holes through each end of the plank,
25 mm from the edge and going into the fence posts. Using the
power screwdriver, secure the plank in place with wood screws.

9 Repeat steps 6 8 for each

full panel of your fence.

WHEN COMPLETE, PAINT THE FENCE

AND POSTS WITH TWO COATS OF
QUALITY EXTERIOR ENAMEL.

8
8 Position the next plank below the top one, using the spacer to separate them, and fasten it in place
in the same manner. Continue as above until the bottom plank is in place. Leave a 50 100 mm
gap below this plank to prevent it from being overexposed to water and damp from the ground.
5

Building a wooden gate

We added a gate to our wooden fence to complete our privacy
screen. As the principle for hanging a gate is always the same,
the method can be adapted for a variety of situations.

2 PEOPLE

2 DAYS

HOW TO

SKILL

SAFETY GEAR

Safety glasses
Gloves
Ear protection

1
1 Cut all the wood to size, as per cutting list, or have it done at a
Builders.
6

2
2 Once the wood is cut, paint
all the pieces with primer.

What you
will need:
- Circular saw
- Power screwdriver
- Power drill

- Assorted wood

CUTTING LIST
WALL POST

DIAGONAL BRACES

(69 x 35 mm):
1 x 1000 mm

(96 x 22 mm):
1 x 1500 mm

HORIZONTAL PICKETS

VERTICAL BRACES

(96 x 22 mm):
11 x 850 mm

(96 x 22 mm):
2 x 1000 mm

drill bits

- Sander
- Spirit level
- Paintbrush
- Tape measure and
pencil

- 2x adjustable clamps
(to hold up to 1 m)
- Carpenters square
- Treated SA pine
(see cutting list)
- 66 decking screws
- Wood primer
- Exterior enamel paint
- 22 x wood spacers
(22x22x500 mm)
- 2 hinges and 8 coach
bolts
- 1 latch

3
3 This type of gate is best assembled flat on the ground before

being installed in situ. Choose a level area a concrete garage

floor would be ideal and lay all the planks down with the
spacers between them.
7

4
4 Using a straight edge

and set square, make sure

the planks form a perfect
rectangle.

6
6 Draw a pencil line 55 mm in from the edge of the planks

on one side, all the way from the top to the bottom. Lay the
first vertical brace on the planks with its outer edge on this line
and clamp the brace to the planks. Drill two diagonally spaced
holes through the brace and into the top plank. Using the power
screwdriver, fasten the brace to the plank. Continue down in the
same manner for each plank until all are secured to the brace.
As the braces will be on the back of the gate the screws dont
have to be perfectly aligned. However, if this is the type of thing
that bothers you, make a template with a piece of paper of the
positions of the first two screws and use it to mark where all the
others should go.

5
5 If you have a large
adjustable clamp, use it to
hold the planks together, with
the spacers still between them,
before you start the next step.
8

7
7 Position the second vertical brace 55 mm in from the opposite
edge of the planks and screw it to the planks in the same manner.

If you prefer the look of

unpainted wood, then
coat the fence with wood
sealer rather than paint
primer, followed by
varnish, or a second coat
of sealer, to prevent it
from weathering.

8
8 The diagonal brace is critical to the strength of the gate and to
prevent it from sagging in the future. It needs to be positioned with
its lower end on the hinge side of the gate and the top end on the
opening side. Position it accordingly and mark where it needs to
be cut.

10
10 Create a stop post on the

9
9 Cut the first end and then reposition the brace to mark where to

cut the second. Place an off-cut of wood under the cut end while
repositioning the brace to ensure that the second mark will be true,
as both ends of the diagonal brace must butt up hard against the
vertical braces in order to keep the gate hanging straight. Cut the
second end and clamp the brace in position before fastening it to
each plank with two screws.

wall against which the gate

will close by fastening a 69 x
35 mm piece of timber to it.
Make the stop post the same
height as the hinge post. The
stop post will be half the width
of the hinge post and should
be fastened to the wall with
wall plugs and screws. If you
decide to put your gate in the
middle of the fence, then you
could use a fence post as the
stop post. A stop post prevents
a gate from opening both ways
and provides something for you
to fasten a bolt or lock to, if
necessary.
9

13

11

13 Remove the supports from

under the gate and check
that the hinges work well,
supporting the weight of the
gate.

11 Fasten hinges to the ends of planks 2 and 10 of the fence panel

where you want the gate to pivot, using 20 mm coach bolts. Using
a spirit level, make absolutely sure the hinges are vertically aligned
with each other before drilling holes for the bolts. Attaching the
hinges to the fence first makes it easier to get the alignment correct
because you dont have to deal with the weight of the gate.

14
14 Mount a latch or bolt onto

the most appropriate side of

the gate. Remember that if you
want to be able to reach the
latch from both sides of the
gate, it will have to be mounted
quite high up.

12
15
12 Stand your gate on some bricks or timber off-cuts so that it is
positioned perfectly in place when closed. Drill the necessary holes
and secure the hinges to the gate with more 20 mm coach bolts
10

15 Paint the gate with 2 coats of

good quality exterior enamel.

Laying a patio
You are limited only by your imagination when it comes to
choosing a pattern for patio paving. You can place the pavers
symmetrically, geometrically or randomly; you can leave large
areas between them and fill these with pebbles, as we did with
our pebble pathway (see page 14); or you could just place loose
pebbles between them.

HOW TO

2 PEOPLE

2 DAYS

SKILL

What you
will need:
- Pavers (590x590x40 mm )
- Edging cobbles (20x20 mm)
- Spade

- Garden fork
- Rake
- Level
- Bucket
- Cement
- Building sand

1
1 Measure the area to be paved and plan the layout of the paving
so you can estimate what you need for the job.

- White rubber mallet

- Fine sprayer for hosepipe
- Builders line and pegs

11

When laying a large

patio use a landscaping
fabric such as Bidim
to prevent subsidence,
weeds from sprouting and
your river sand base from
mixing with the garden
soil underneath.

2
2 Remove any weeds and rubble and level the area. If necessary, create any stepped portions. Then
get the levels right for rainwater run-off by making them drop slightly towards a drain or the garden
20 mm drop from highest to lowest point.

A general rule for run-off is

to direct the water towards
the garden and away
from any structures. You
also want to avoid water
pooling on your patio.

3
3 If theres already drainage in
the area, redirect it to catch the
run-off, or allow for drainage to
be installed.
12

4
4 Choose how to edge your patio. You could use edging stones,
a border of your chosen paving, bricks, a mini wall or anything
else that can be cemented in place. Often small cobbles or edging
bricks are used to border an area. See page 15 on how to edge
(steps 2-5).

The area to be paved must

be enclosed by a border.
If it doesnt already have
one, then you must create
one as the first step. See
steps 2 5 on page 15.

5
5 Spread river sand over the
area to be paved to a depth
of 50 mm, keeping it level
with a straight edge and level.
Sprinkle cement powder on top
of the sand and wet it with a
fine spray of water to activate
the cement.

7
7 Use a rubber mallet to tap the paving into place. Once all
the paving has been laid, make a dry mix of 3 parts sand and
1 part cement. Combine it well until its a uniform light grey
colour. Spread the mixture over the tiles/blocks until it has filled
the spaces between them, then brush off the excess using a soft
broom. Be sure all the spaces are properly filled.

8
6
6 Start laying the paving in the most visible area usually

the middle of the patio. By doing this and working your way
outwards, all the paving that has to be cut will end up along the
walls. Leave small gaps between the paving blocks as these need
to be filled with grout to hold them in place.

8 Hose down the paving with

a fine spray of water. This will
activate the cement and cause
the mixture to bind the paving
together. Try not to walk over
the area for at least 12 hours to
give the cement time to set.
13

Laying a garden path

Join two parts of the garden, your driveway and home or just
create a nice space in your garden by laying a garden path. Your
options are endless but all use the same principle of edging and
filling. Our path is a patterned pebble path but you can also fill the
path with pebbles for a more textured feel.

HOW TO

1 PERSON

2 DAYS

SKILL

What you
will need:
- Pebbles (round or egg-shaped.
You will need 40 kg for every
metre to be covered)
- Cement

- Edging bricks
- Building sand
- Plastic float or wooden block
- Rubber gloves
- Rubber mallet
- Trowel

- Bucket
- Spade

1 Mark out your pathway using spray paint or mealie meal. Make
sure the curves are correct and that the sides are parallel. Use
builders line if doing a straight path.

14

- Fine sprayer for hosepipe

- Level and builders line & pegs

2
2 Dig out the area to a depth
of 50 mm, level it and dig
shallow trenches for the edging
along both sides. The trenches
will hold the cement into which
the edging is placed.

3
3 Mix 4 parts building sand

with 1 part cement and water

to create a mortar with the
consistency of thick yoghurt.

4
4 Working on a small section of trench at a time, spread the
mortar along it. Place each piece of edging into the mortar and
tap it into place with the mallet to ensure its firmly seated. Butt
each piece up against the previous one and make sure the tops
are level. Continue in the same way until the edging is completed.
Clean up any cement that has spilled into the pathway area.

5
5 Let the mortar set overnight before continuing.

15

6 Mix 4 parts sand with 1 part cement and enough water to make 8 For the grouting, make a
a dryish mixture. Pour this into the area thats been dug out for the
pathway, filling it almost to the top of your edging bricks. Level and
compact it with a float or block of wood. If you intend placing the
pebbles in a particular pattern, then draw or trace the pattern into
the cement at this point.

slurry of cement and water

(it should be the consistency
of runny yoghurt). Pour it
over the pebbles so that it
fills all the spaces between
them, then leave it to set for
one hour. (If the mixture has
splashed onto the surrounding
paving or cobbles, clean it off
immediately.)

9
7
7 Start putting the pebbles in place, working from the centre of the
design outwards and ensuring each pebble is embedded in the
cement. When the area is filled with the pebbles, or your pattern
is achieved, see that they are level by placing a plank across them
and tapping it with the mallet.
16

9 Use a hose with a very fine

spray to wash the cement off

the pebbles, taking care not
to wash the cement out from
between them. Use a sponge
to clean off any cement still left
on the pebbles and dab up the
excess moisture.

Making a handy potting

work station
A potting bench is a great asset for any gardener, providing a
work space at the right height (no backache) and with everything
you need at hand for potting and re-potting.

HOW TO

1 PERSON

6 HOURS

3
SKILL

What you
will need:
- 6 CCA-treated timber
roof trusses
(3000 x 152 x 38 mm)
- 1 CCA-treated timber roof
truss (3000 x 76 x 38 mm)
- 1 CCA-treated timber roof
truss (4200 x 76 x 50 mm)
- 1 CCA-treated timber
roof truss
(1700 x 420 x 38 mm)
- 100 coach screws
(8 x 75 mm)
- 100 flat washers (8 mm)
- 3 paint trays (5 litre)
- 1 bag compost

1
1 Cut the timber as per the cutting list, using a circular saw.

- 1 large bag of bonemeal

- 1 bag of vermiculite
- Tools including circular saw,
drill, tape measure & spanner

17

CUTTING LIST
Box frame for bench top
(152x38 mm): 2x1506 mm
and 3x715 mm lengths
Bench top (152x38
mm): 2x1430 mm and
6x238 mm lengths
Tapered dividers
(76x38 mm): 6x420 mm
lengths
Top shelf (152x38 mm):
1x1030 mm length
Back board (152x38mm):
1x1506 mm length
Legs and cross-braces
(76x50 mm): 2x615 mm
lengths, 4x850 mm lengths
Bottom shelf
(152x38 mm): 3x1420 mm
lengths

3
3 Position frame upside down

and fasten the two 1430 mm

planks inside the box frame to
make the top front of the bench.
Also position and fasten side
spacers and filler piece of
wood.

5
5 Assemble the legs and crossbraces and fasten to the box
frame.

Paint tray stoppers

(76x38 mm): 3x100 mm
lengths

2
2 Assemble the box frame and
fasten using the coach screws
after drilling 6 mm pilot holes
for them.
18

4
4 While it is still upside down
fasten the stoppers for the paint
trays to the bottom of the box
frame.

6
6 Turn bench the right way up
and fasten bottom shelf planks
in position.

150 mm

15 mm

7
7 Cut the tapered dividers. Mark out the corner sections to be cut
off 15 mm step from the one end and 150 mm step from the
opposite end. Trim off the waste using a circular saw.

8
8 Evenly space 4 of the tapered dividers so that the three painter

trays can fit between them and secure the top shelf.

9
9 Position the tapered dividers

and top shelf in the centre of the

back board and secure. Also
fasten a tapered divider on the
very edge of both sides of the
back board.

10
10 Place the back board and

divider assembly on top of the

box frame and fasten, using the
coach screws.
19

11
11 Place the paint trays between
the dividers, ensuring the
bottoms rest on the stoppers.

13
13 Fill the trays with compost, vermiculite and bonemeal or the
fertiliser of your choice.

12
12 Seal using Woodoc 50 wood sealer and place the bench where you want it.
20

Using pots to create a

contemporary water feature
1 PERSON
3 HOURS

SAFETY GEAR

SKILL

What you
will need:
- Sump or fibreglass basin

HOW TO

Safety glasses
Gloves (optional)

and covering grid

- Spade

- River sand
- Pump
- 15 mm diameter tubing
- 1 m threaded 15 mm pipe bar
(something that wont rust
and is strong)
- 15 mm lock nut
- 7x15 mm nuts to fasten pots
to threaded bar
- 6 washers to use with nuts

1
1 Decide where you want to place your water feature and level
the ground around it.

- 3 pots, small, medium & large,

that stack together & have
prominent lips
- Silicone sealer
- Stones

21

2
2 Turn the sump upside down
and mark its position on the
ground with spray paint or flour.

4
4 Backfill around the sump
with river sand.

6
6 Guide the cable for the

pump over the lip, ready to be

routed to the plug point.

3
3 Dig out a hole deep enough

to take the sump and fill it with

river sand to a depth of at least
50 mm to create a firm base for
the sump. Check that the sump
is perfectly level.

You dont want the sump

to be flush with the ground
until youve planted up
the garden or soil will fall
into it.

22

5
5 Half fill the sump with water
and put the pump in it, under
the water.

7
7 Feed the tubing from the
pump through the grid.

8
8 Drill a 17 mm hole in the centre of each pot and measure
and cut the threaded pipe to the length needed according to
the height youre going to stack the pots (see point 10). Make
sure theres a wide enough hole in the grid for the threaded pipe
and nuts to go through so the lowest pot can sit squarely on the
grid. Drill a second 17 mm hole in the bottom of each pot for the
tubing, positioning them so when the pots are stacked the holes
line up, which will allow the tubing to carry the water up to the
top pot.

9
9 Screw the lock nut (or use two nuts tighten against each other)

onto the bottom of the threaded bar, slip a washer onto the pipe
and then slip on the lowest pot. Fasten the pot against the lock
nut from the inside using another washer and nut. Seal around the
joint to make it watertight.

10
10 Position two nuts onto

the threaded pipe where the

second pot must sit and tighten
them against each to lock
them in place. Slip a washer
onto the pipe and then slip on
the middle pot. Fasten the pot
against the two nuts from the
inside using another washer
and nut. Seal around the joint
to make it watertight.

11
11 At the height of the middle

bowls lip, or just below it,

fasten the last and smallest pot
to the pipe in the same way
including sealing around the
joints.
23

CREATING SHAPES
Instead of pots you could
create your own shapes to
put on your water feature.
Throw concrete mix (2 parts
stone: 2 parts river sand: 2
parts cement) into a bowl,
hold a piece of conduit
in place in the centre and
leave to dry for about a
week. Use this instead of
your bowls to create a very
attractive, original water
feature.

12
12 Pass the tubing from the pump up through the second set of
holes.

13
13 Seal the gap between the
hole and the tubing well. Trim
off any excess tubing, propping
up the end, if necessary, with
pebbles or rocks.
24

14
14 Cover the grid around the base of your feature with pebbles
and turn the pump on.

Using guttering to
construct a wall garden
Use hydroponic principles to grow vegetables, herbs and flowers
in a garden made of guttering. The system saves a huge amount
of water as it keeps recycling the same water.

2 PEOPLE
3 HOURS

SKILL

HOW TO

1
1 Measure 45 mm from one end of each gutter and cut a 20 mm
hole in the bottom with a hole saw.

2
2 Attach all the end stops to
the gutters.
25

What you
will need:
- 4x D-shaped PVC gutters
(1500 mm)

- 8x D-shaped gutter end stops

- 16x D-shaped gutter
brackets

- 3x conduit pipe (320x20 mm)

lengths

- 1x length of conduit pipe

(250x20 mm)

- 4x male conduit adapters

(20 mm)

- 1x PVC bend for 250x20 mm

conduit
- 3x saddle straps
- 1x tube PVC glue
- 2x cans Rust-oleum Plastic
Spray Paint (grey)

3 Spray-paint all the gutters

with two coats of Rust-oleum

Plastic Spray Paint, allowing
for drying time between
coats. Wait until the final coat
has dried thoroughly before
continuing. (The gutters could
be left white but we painted
ours grey in order to showcase
the plants well.)

4 Using the Nail-Ins, fix the

gutter brackets to the wall
four brackets per gutter
starting 1.5 m above ground
level and working downwards.
Space the rows 320 mm
apart and ensure that each is
perfectly level.

- 30x Nail-Ins
(4x45 mm plug and screw)
- 1x Water pump (2000l/h
with a head height of 3 m)
- 2x bags washed stone
- 1x storage box (sturdy
40 litres)

- 1x silicone sealant
- 3x irrigation pipe bends
(20 mm)

- 1x control adapter (20 mm)

- 2 m irrigation pipe (20 mm)
- Sandpaper
- Water soluble plant food
- Hole saw
- Drill bit (20 mm)
- Hammer drill
- Masonry drill bit (5 mm)

26

5
5 Assemble the system by clipping the gutters to the brackets with
the predrilled holes at opposite ends. Then, starting with the top
gutter, attach the 320 x 20 mm conduit pipes into the predrilled
holes using the 20 mm conduit adapters. Make sure the ends of
the pipes are not blocked and allow water to flow into the next
gutter. Seal the joints with silicone sealer.

HYDROPONIC WALL GARDEN

Control
adaptor

Saddle
strap

Water
line

Electrical
cable to
plug
point

Pump

27

8 Insert the PVC bend into the

bottom gutter, attached to a
length of irrigation pipe through
which the water will flow back
into the reservoir.

6 Set the storage box up as a

Hydroponic systems
like this one can attract
Pythium fungus, which
ultimately causes root
rot. Use a product such
as Efekto Pond Clear to
keep the water cycling
through the system clean
and disease-free.

HOW TO FEED AND

CARE FOR YOUR
GARDEN

reservoir and container for the

pump. Drill two 20 mm holes
into one side of the box near
the top for the inlet and outlet
pipes.

9
9 Plug in the pump, fill the

reservoir with water and test the

system to make sure the water
flows easily through it.

7
7 Use the irrigation pipe and
pipe bends to connect the
pump to the top of the system.
Insert the control adapter in the
length of irrigation pipe. Secure
the pipe to the wall using the
saddle straps.
28

10
10 Fill the gutters with the

washed stone and plant your

vegetables in it as you would if
planting them in soil.

A liquid fertiliser such as

Starke Ayres Nutrifeed is
necessary for Hydroponic
gardening. Add it to the
water as directed. Should
you experience a serious
pest problem, use a fastacting, broad spectrum
organic insecticide, such as
Biogrow Pyrol, which kills
insects such as bollworm,
cutworm, ants, scale,
aphids, mealy bug, beetles,
caterpillars and houseflies
at all stages of their life
cycles. But it is detrimental
to beneficial insects and so
best used only to reduce
infestations of pests until you
regain control.

Making comfortable
wooden furniture
Named by Thomas Lee after the Adirondack Mountains in New
York State, these Adirondack chairs are ideal for outdoor living,
with armrests wide enough to comfortably hold a drink or plate of
snacks.

- SA pine boards

HOW TO

1 PERSON

2 DAYS

CHAIR BASE, INCLUDING LEGS

- Wood glue
- 40 mm full thread,
cut screws

b
55 mm
35 mm
50 mm

Template for chair base

a
395 mm

- Masonite or plywood for

templates

60 mm

130 mm

850 mm

3
SKILL

20 mm

100 mm

What you
will need:

180 mm
285 mm

- Wood filler
- 2 litres wood primer
- 2 litres paint (exterior
acrylic or enamel)
- Jigsaw
- Electric planer

- Belt sander
- Orbital sander

1 Using a piece of masonite (850 x 130 mm), cut out a template

for the sides of the seat as per Diagram A. Use the template to
trace the shape onto the 850 x 130 x 22 mm planks and cut
them out, using a jigsaw.

- Carpenters square
- Cordless drill and bits
- Paintbrush

29

CUTTING LIST
SA PINE FOR 2 CHAIRS
4 x seat sides
(850 x 130 x 22 mm)
18 x seat slats
(585 x 55 x 22 mm)
4 x front legs
(565 x 144 x 22 mm)
4 x armrests
(710 x 144 x 22 mm)
4 x armrest support brackets
(130 x 90 x 22 mm)
2 x backrest centre slats
(780 x 144 x 22 mm)
8 x backrest side slats
(780 x 85 x 22 mm)
2 x top backrest
support cleats
(725 x 55 x 22 mm)

2
2 Bevel the top edges of 9 seat slats (585 x 55 x 22 mm) and
attach them to the sides between points A and B on the template
diagram, spacing them evenly and making sure the sides stay
parallel.

2 x bottom backrest
support cleats
(585 x 55 x 22 mm)

144 mm

565 mm

Template
for leg

SA PINE FOR 1 TABLE

5 x table top slats
(500 x 95 x 22 mm)
2 x cleats
(495 x 30 x 22 mm)
2 x legs
(560 x 144 x 22 mm)
2 x side rails
(415 x 94 x 22 mm)
2 x feet
(400 x 144 x 22 mm)
30

20 mm

3 The two front legs (565 x 144 x 22 mm) require tapering so

that the bottoms are 20mm narrower than the tops. Measure
20 mm in from one bottom corner and draw a line from there to
the corresponding top corner. Saw along the line to create the
taper. On a completely flat surface, support the front of the seat
so that the two back feet are flush with the ground, then attach
the front legs on either side at the point shown above, with the
tapered edges facing backwards.

ARMREST

BACKREST

Top cleat

60 mm 80 mm

700 mm

Template for armrest

400 mm

BACKREST

2b

Bottom cleat
80mm

585mm
725mm

4
4 Lay one 780 x 144 x 22 mm

centre slat down with two

780 x 085 x 22 mm slats on
either side of it (5 slats in all).
From the centre point, use a
piece of string and a pencil to
mark a curve across the top of
the slats, then cut them to shape.
Lay the slats down again but
evenly spaced. Fasten them
together along the bottom by
screwing them to the narrow
edge of a bottom cleat (585 x
55 x 22 mm), making sure they
remain parallel. Then screw a
top cleat (725 x 55 x 22 mm)
to the slats, 330 mm up from the
bottom cleat. Note that at the
bottom you screw the slats to the
cleat but at the top you screw
the cleat to the slats.

6
6 Using masonite, draw and cut out a template for the armrests

(as per diagram above). Draw the outline of the template on the
710 x 144 x 22 mm planks for the armrests and cut them to
shape. Bevel and sand all the edges, then attach the armrests to
the tops of the front legs first, and then to the ends of the top cleat
protruding from the backrest. (Be sure to fasten the armrest to the
legs first as the cleat will be at an angle.)

5
5 Screw the backrest to the seat, just behind the last slat.

ARMREST SUPPORT

7
7 Each armrest requires an
armrest support bracket
(130 x 90 x 22 mm). Cut a
curved shape into the corner
of the bracket and secure the
bracket to the underside of the
armrest and the side of the leg
(one for either side.)
31

TABLE

1 Lay out the 5 slats for the top of the table (500 x 95 x 22 mm)

with a 5mm gap between each, making sure they are all parallel.
Smooth or round off the ends of the cleats (495 x 30 x 22 mm)
and attach them to the bottom of the slats, 42.5mm from either
end. (The distance between the two cleats must be 415 mm.)

4 Complete the table by laying

the top face down, placing the
legs in the centre and attaching
them to the cleats.

FINISHING TOUCHES
Bevel any remaining sharp
edges, fill screw holes with
wood filler and sand all
exposed wood. Paint with
wood primer, then up to
three coats of good quality
acrylic or enamel for
outdoor use.

2
2 Attach the side rails (415 x 94 x 22) to the legs
(560 x 144 x 22), 90 mm from the bottom.
160 mm

120 mm
80 mm
60 mm
140 mm

120 mm

Template for feet

40 mm
60 mm
400 mm

60 mm

3
3 Draw and cut out a template (as above) for the feet and trace

the shape onto the (400 x 144 x 22) planks. Shape the feet and
attach them to the outside of the legs, just below the rails.

32

33

Disclaimer

Gar
den
Edib ing es
se
le
Des garde ntials
ign nin
Kee ing yo g
ur
pi
Pai ng a lu garde
nti
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sh
Dec ng the lawn
ora ins
Pain ting a ide of
ti
yo
fe
Floo ng out ature ur ho
rin side w me
Tilin g solu your all
tio
g
hom
e
Sec your w ns
urin all
The g your s
plu
h
Ligh mbing ome
tin
bas
ics
Sw g
imm
Cho ing po
osin ol ca
We g the re
eke
nd D right t
IY p ools
roje
cts

Builders booklets, DVDs and other guides are provided strictly for informational purposes only. The
information contained herein is intended to provide general information with regard to simple DIY
projects. As products, laws and regulations are continually changing, Builders takes no responsibility
for the accuracy of information contained herein or any liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of
any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer/reader to ensure compliance with all applicable laws,
rules, codes and regulations as the case may be. Safety is important, make sure to take proper safety
precautions and exercise caution when taking on any DIY project. Always read the manufacturers
instructions and heed their guidance for using their product. Certain products or materials may only
be available at selected Builders stores. If there is any doubt regarding any element of a DIY project
please consult a professional. Builders cannot be held liable for any loss, damage or injury that may
result out of the use of the Builders booklets, DVDs and other guides.

O IN

ALS
THE
GE

RAN

34