The Family Handyman January 2015 USA PDF

10 TIPS FOR PICKING PAINT COLORS
Handyman
THE FAMILY #1 in DIY Home Improvement
Bookcase
Take
the D
IY
Quiz
!
with a
bed!
Turn any room

into a guest
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The best way to

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DEC/JAN 2015
$
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How to recaulk a tub
SWITCH ANYTHING FROM ANYWHERE!
Wall-to-wall entertainment center for $300! DISPLAY UNTIL 1/13/2015
Table of CONTENTS
D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 015 familyhandyman.com
FEATURES
14 Murphy bed & bookcase
A cozy extra bed when you need
one; a handsome showpiece
when you don’t.
26 Mackintosh table
A Scottish classic that’s easy,
inexpensive and constructed
using clever woodworking tricks.
34 Showcase wall
Transform a bland room with
this beautiful entertainment
center. It’s the ultimate
bang-for-the-buck project!
50 Switch anything
We simplify all the options,
whether you want to control your
electronics from across the room
or from across the world.
14
26 34 50
2 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 NOTE: Skipped pages represent advertisements that are not included in this digital edition.
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Table of CONTENTS
D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 015 familyhandyman.com
DEPARTMENTS
6 Stuff We Love 76 Car + Garage
A practically perfect planer, Out go the jumper cables:
compact pocketknives and a Modern vehicles require new
power station for your garage. equipment to start a dead battery.
47 Handy Hints® 82 DIY Quiz

Smart ways to polish metal, Think you know everything
manage cords, stir paint, there is to know about DIY?
loosen bolts, and so much more. Find out with this quiz.
54 Pro Tips 96 Great Goofs®

Open up a world of woodwork- A pair of painting mistakes
ing opportunities by learning unpopular with the wives,
how to resaw wood. and a screen repair times six.
63
63 Top Ten Tips
Practical advice for choosing
paint colors and sheens, and
tips to get the job done right.
71 Home Care + Repair

We’ll show you how to remove
6 old caulk, prep the surface, and
then recaulk a tub or shower.
76
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4 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 fam ilyh an d ym an.co m

©Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2014
life is
theorizing
where babies
come
from,
and a memory foam
mattress so you
can sleep like one
SULTAN HANSBO
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499
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STUFF we love
B Y T R AV I S L A R S O N editors@thefamilyhandyman.com
PRACTICALLY
PERFECT PLANER
I do lots of woodworking, almost all of it starting with rough-sawn
lumber. Flattening and smoothing that lumber require three tools: a
jointer, a table saw and a thickness planer. I’ve had my DeWalt
DW735 planer for about eight years now, and the only maintenance it
has required is knife changes. (Use only clean, metal-free lumber
since a set of knives costs upward of $60.) All that trouble-free per-
formance, despite sending thousands of feet of various lumber
types, thicknesses and widths through its maw.
It has three two-edged knives in the cutter head, so you can flip
them around when one side gets dull. There are two speed settings:
The slower one is for smoother cuts (179 cuts per inch), while the
second setting is for speedier work (79 cuts per inch). Frankly I only
use the slow speed when I’m cutting wide or extra-tough lumber. The
fast speed yields plenty smooth results using a much quicker feed
rate. The thickness scale is absolutely dead on.
The dust system is the best I’ve ever seen on any tool. It has an
internal blower to supplement any dust collection system you may
have. If you don’t have dust collection, it’s still almost mess-free if
you simply direct the chips into a trash can. It’ll handle stock up to
6 in. thick and 12 in. wide. At about $550 a copy, these rascals ain’t
cheap, but after eight trouble-free years, I gotta tell ya: I love mine!
Check it out at dewalt.com.
Travis Larson, Senior Editor
ART DIRECTION VERN JOHNSON • PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA

It’s what you’ll do when you complete a project
with Minwax® stains and protective finishes. It will be
so beautiful, you’ll want to tell everyone, “I did that.”
Follow us on
Makes And Keeps Wood BeautifulTM
Get Inspired. Visit minwax.com
DIY WORK WE AR
POCKETKNIVES 2.0
Pocketknives are super handy for all sorts of tasks. I have one in my truck, one in my wife’s car and
another in my desk. I keep them everywhere except my pockets. I’ve never liked stuff weighing down
my pockets, so lately I’ve been carrying some super-compact knives. I carry the Tool Logic Credit Card
Companion, which boasts nine tiny tools. Victorinox, the makers of the Swiss Army Knife, have a
couple different models to choose from, like this SwissCard Lite equipped with a miniature scissors.
SOG The Sinclair Cardsharp is an ultra-thin knife that unfolds like origami.
KEY KNIFE
I recently added a SOG Key Knife to my arsenal. It fits right on my key ring and looks just like a key. I
bought my knives at an online retailer. Prices range from $10 to $30. Warning: Leave the knives at
home before heading to the airport, or you’ll suffer the wrath of the folks working security and you’ll
lose your knife. Don’t ask me how I know that.
Mark Petersen, Contributing Editor
VICTORINOX
SWISSCARD LITE
TOOL LOGIC
CREDIT CARD COMPANION
SINCLAIR CARDSHARP
Nifty blade height

adjustment guide
I’ve always relied on small blocks of wood to set the cutting
depth on my table saw blade. Even though I labeled each
block, they would inevitably get knocked onto the floor and
swept into the trash, and I’d have to make another one.
I no longer have that problem because I picked up a
set of Mag Shims from FastCap. Mag Shims are
1/8-in. magnetic spacers. If you need a blade
height of 7/8 in., simply stack seven spacers,
and raise the blade to match. They also work
great for setting the depth on router bits
and drill presses. I stick them right to the
backside of my fence, so they’re always at
hand and never get lost. A pack of eight 1/8-
in. spacers and two 1/16-in. spacers costs $25.
Buy a set at fastcap.com.
Mark Petersen, Contributing Editor

Pull power, light and
compressed air down
from your ceiling
When auto mechanics need a trouble light,
receptacle or compressed air, they just reach
for the ceiling and pull down whatever hose
or cord they need. Now you can too. The
Chamberlain Garage Power Station mounts
MY GO-TO SEALER on your ceiling and has a 25-ft. multifunction
I love shellac. It’s a natural product made from pull-down/retractable “hose” to provide
the dried excretions of the Lac beetle and has been used for light, power and compressed air.
centuries. It’s a relatively nontoxic finish that dries quickly, so The base unit plugs into a nearby recepta-
you can topcoat in an hour instead of waiting overnight. cle and houses an air compressor capable of
Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat is my sealer of choice. This putting out 100 psi (great for bike tires). Pop
premixed shellac works on any wood and is universally two MR16 halogen bulbs into the ceiling unit
compatible with any topcoat. I use it to seal and tone wood to get 100 watts of area lighting in addition
before applying water-based poly. The light amber color to the LED work light on the retractable hose.
warms the wood. A foam brush works great to seal bare Find the Garage Power Station at home cen-
wood. It’s available at home centers and hardware and ters and online for $130.
paint stores for $16 a quart.
David Munkittrick, Contributing Editor
Add security
with a door
blocker
If you don’t like the look of the
metal plates that protect
doors from break-ins, consider
adding a Prime-Line door
blocker (No. U-10826-27; $20
at most home centers).
There’s no way a burglar can
kick in a door equipped with
this kind of lock. However, you
can only operate the blocker
from inside the house, so it
adds security only when you’re
at home.
Swing the locking assembly toward the door until it snaps into the locking channel.
To open, pull the locking assembly sideways toward the hinge side, then swing it open.
10 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 fam ilyh an d ym an.c o m

MURPHY BED
& BOOKCASE
A cozy extra bed when you need it,
a handsome showpiece when you don’t
by Dave Munkittrick Building a Murphy bed requires
editors@thefamilyhandyman.com some precision—you have to install
the hardware exactly according to the
W hen William Lawrence Murphy

filed patents for his space-sav-
ing bed in about 1900, he couldn’t
instructions. But the woodworking
here is actually simpler than that
required for many bookcases. There
have known that he was solving a are no dadoes, mortises or tricky join-
21st-century problem: the need for a ery. And all of the door frames are
home office or hobby space, plus extra impostors. They look exactly like clas-
sleeping space for guests. And sic rail-and-stile frames, but they’re
although his invention has been just 1/4-in.-thick solid wood applied
improved over the last century, the to plywood. The bookcases that flank
basic idea is still brilliant. the bed are optional.

WHAT IT TAKES
TIME: 4 weekends
COST: $1,600 as shown
SKILL LEVEL: Advanced
TOOLS: Table saw, miter saw,
jigsaw, router, pattern bit, drill,
brad nailer (or micro pinner).
f a m ily h a n d y m a n . c o m DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 15

DESIGNED TO PAMPER YOUR GUESTS
A Murphy bed can

be super simple:
Some are just an
upright box that
contains a fold-
down bed. But this
is a deluxe version.
Aside from the
handsome design
and storage
spaces, I included
some convenience
features to make
guests comfort-
able: On both sides
of the bed, there
Lights and switches built into the side cabi-
are pullout tables
nets aren’t just decorative; they can act as
mounted on drawer
night-lights for guests.
slides. Inside the
side cabinets, there
are display lights
that can also act as
night-lights. On the
headboard, I
mounted a touch
knob so guests
could switch on
lights above the
bed—no groping for
a light switch in a
dark, unfamiliar
room. Pullout tabletops function like nightstands—the perfect Just touch a knob on the headboard to operate
spot to set a book or a cup of bedtime tea. the dimmable reading lights above the bed.
MURPHY BED
HARDWARE
Hardware kits include folding legs that sup-
port the foot of the bed, pivots that allow the
bed to swing down and, most important, gas
pistons that operate like the pistons on a
hatchback, lifting most of the weight of the
bed when you close it.
There are lots of online sources for Murphy
bed hardware. I ordered mine ($375) from
rockler.com and was impressed with both the
quality of the hardware and the detailed
instructions. Twin-, full- and queen-size kits
are available. Aside from the hardware, I
spent about $115 on lighting kits designed
especially for Murphy beds and bookcases.
See p. 25 for details.

Before you build
Don’t begin this project until you have the
Murphy bed hardware on hand—you may
have to alter my design slightly to suit dif-
ferent hardware. Also be sure the room and
furniture will accommodate the bed. As
built, my bed protrudes 80 in. from the wall.
Most of the materials you’ll need are avail- STRUT
able at home centers. The exceptions are

SIDE
the Murphy bed hardware (see p. 25) and
1/4-in.-thick solid oak. You can order 1/4-in.
hardwood online (walllumber.com is one
source) or “resaw” thicker boards (see p. 56).
BUILD THE INNER FRAME
1 The inner frame forms the core of the fold-down bed frame. Assemble
the L-shape struts with glue and brad nails. Then fasten them to the sides
Build the bed frame with screws.
You’ll want a large assembly table for this
project. A full sheet of 3/4-in. plywood
screwed to a pair of sturdy sawhorses does
the trick. Otherwise, you’ll need to work on
the floor. Assemble the struts (GGG) from COUPLER
stock that’s at least 1/4 in. too long and
trim them to final length after assembly.
Then join them to the frame sides (HHH)
with screws (Photo 1).
The rest of the bed frame is made from
oak plywood (G–J). The bed rails get 1-1/2-in.
edging (KK) on the end and 3/4-in. edging on
the top (LL); see Photo 2. For the curves on
CAUL
the rails, create a plywood template (Photo
3). Use the template to position hardware
holes (Photo 4) and to mark the curves.
ART DIRECTION VERN JOHNSON • PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA • ILLUSTRATION FRANK ROHRBACH III
END CAP
Rough-cut the curves with a jigsaw. Smooth BLOCK EDGING
the curves by sanding or by running a pat-
tern router bit along the template. ASSEMBLE THE SIDE RAIL
Attach the head rail, foot rail and side 2 The side rails are plywood strips edged with solid wood. Clamp the top
edging in place, using cauls to distribute the pressure. You’ll need a long
rails to the inner bed frame. Cut two pieces
clamp to attach the end block edging. To extend the reach of a pipe clamp,
of plywood for the bed face panels (A). Trim just add another length of pipe using a coupler.
one side and the top edge (where the foot of
the bed will be) of each panel with 1/4-in.
edging. Lay the two panels face down on
your bench and butt the two pieces together
so the hardwood edges are to the outside.
Lay the assembled bed frame on top of the HARDWARE
panels and attach with screws (Photo 5). HOLE
With a helper, carefully turn over the bed

frame assembly so it’s face up on your
STOP
bench. Rip the stock for the faux panels BLOCK
and drawers (UU–BBB) to width. Use 1/8-in.
spacers to create gaps between the faux
doors and drawers and attach with glue
and brads or pins (Photo 6). Be sparing with
ROUGH
the glue to avoid squeeze-out, which is CUT
SIDE RAIL
tough to clean up. Go ahead and mount the
pulls and knobs. Be careful to avoid the MAKE A TEMPLATE DRILL THE
inner frame structure when placing your 3 FOR THE SIDE RAILS
Trace along the paper template and
4 HARDWARE HOLES
The template positions the holes
hardware. Remove all the hardware until
then cut a template from 1/4-in. perfectly. A stop block ensures the
after the cabinet is finished. Cut and fit the
plywood. The plywood template serves correct depth. Rough-cut the curve,
mattress supports (X). Don’t screw these double duty as a drilling guide and a then finish it with a router and a
into place until final assembly. routing pattern. pattern bit guided by the template.
HEAD
Build the cabinets
RAIL Cut the bed cabinet plywood parts (B, C, E).
Glue and clamp 3/4-in. hardwood edging
(MM) on the bed cabinet verticals. Add
1/4-in. edging to the top and bottom edge
of the headboard. Lay out and drill for the
hardware. If you plan to add the light fix-
INNER
FRAME tures, now is the time to cut the 2-7/8-in.-
SIDE diameter holes in the bed header panel.
RAIL FACE
PANEL Follow the instructions in the kit. Screw
and glue the mounting cleats (JJJ) to the
FOOT
RAIL
ends of the header board. Add the header
front and back (BB) according to the instruc-
ASSEMBLE THE BED FRAME tions. Wait to assemble the bed cabinet.
5 Connect the rails to the inner frame and mount the frame on the face
panels. Cut and fit the plywood that will cover the inner frame, but don’t
The bookcases on either side of the bed
cabinet are assembled with the same screw
fasten it yet. Flip the entire bed frame over so you can cover the face panels
and cleat system used for the bed cabinet.
with false doors and drawers.
Cut the plywood parts (F, N–R, U) and cleat
stock (KKK–NNN). Cut 1/4-in.-deep by 3/8-in.-
wide rabbets along the back edge of the mid-
dle and bottom shelves and on the cabinet
sides between the two shelves. Assemble the
side cabinets with screws (Photo 7).
Cut the face frame and pullout parts for
the side cabinet (DD-HH). Build the face
frames with pocket screws or dowels. Clamp
and glue the face frames to the cabinets. Cut
and glue the hardwood edge on the middle
shelf. Build and mount the pullout. Add the
faux panel frames (CCC–EEE) to the doors.
1/8" DOOR FACE PANEL
DRAWER
SPACER
FRONT FRAME Mount the doors. If you’re using Euro-style
cup hinges, be sure to order the ones made
for thick doors (see the list on p. 25). Cut and
fit the backs (Y).
ADD FALSE DOORS AND DRAWERS
6 To dress up the face panels, glue on thin boards that form false door
frames and drawer fronts. Position the parts with spacers and tack them in Build the cabinet tops
place. A brad nailer will work, but a micro pinner is best because the nail Cut the parts for the three cabinet top and
heads are tiny and barely distinguishable. fascia assemblies (D, K–M, S, T, V, W, PP–TT).
Assemble the fascia boxes with screws
and glue. Cut and fit the 1/4-in. oak fascia
CAUL with mitered corners (Photo 8). Trim the
1/2-in. plywood in the same manner.
Attach the fascia trim board to the bottom
of the fascia boxes, then screw the box
down onto the top of each cabinet. If
you’re using lights, use a jigsaw to make a
4-in.-diameter hole in the bottom of each
fascia trim board. Cut the top parts (D, M,
SHELF
CC). Cut a 15-degree bevel on the top trim
on the table saw. Cut and miter the top
trim to fit. Wait to attach the tops until
installation. Drill ventilation holes in the
cabinet tops for the lights.
CLEAT
FASCIA
Installation
You’ll need at least one helper for this
BUILD THE SHELF UNITS BUILD THE FASCIA BOXES
7 Join the fixed shelves to the
side panels with screws and
8 Build simple plywood boxes and
cover them with 1/4-in.-thick solid
phase of the project. The Murphy bed can
be disassembled as far as you need to get
cleats. The other shelves rest on wood. Tack the fascia into place and the bed into the room. The only thing
adjustable supports. use clamps and cauls to hold them flat. remaining that’s large and cumbersome is
Big, bulky circular saws have met their match. The Rockwell Compact Circular
Saw weighs in at a mere 5 pounds without sacrificing an ounce of cutting capacity.
Don’t let the slim design fool you. The comfortable inline grip lets you make all
the big cuts, even using just one hand. It maneuvers easily, especially overhead.
And features a lower blade guard, like on traditional circular saws, for proven
performance and dependability.
R O C K YO U R NEX T P R O JEC T AT R O C K W E L LT O O L S . C O M
COMFORT NEVER the bed frame. If the bed has to wind
its way through a narrow staircase or
LOOKED SO GOOD
other obstacle, consider leaving off the
middle drawer and the two horizontal
dividers on the faux front. These are
the elements that bridge the two face
panels and once installed cannot be
T H E N E W L E E M O D E R N S E R I E S easily dismantled for moving. You can
reassemble the bed frame in the room
and add the drawer and horizontal
dividers at that point.
Before installation, reattach all the
bed hardware but leave the bed stops,
pulls and handles off for now. Place a
pad on the floor about 2 ft. in front of
the wall where the bed will be
mounted. Lay the bed frame face down
on the pad with the head of the bed
frame toward the wall. Mount the bed
cabinet sides to the bed frame on the
metal pivots. At this point, the cabinet
verticals should also be face down
alongside the bed frame. Attach the
headboard with screws.
With a helper on the other side, lift
the bed cabinet up to the vertical posi-
tion. Be sure the leg support is folded up
before you lift the cabinet (Photo 9).
Then attach the bed header assembly to
the top. Next, lift the bed frame into the
vertical position while your helper holds
the cabinet. Be careful: Until the cabinet
is attached to the wall, you need some-
one holding the bed in place and keep-
ing the cabinet steady.
With the bed cabinet and frame ver-
tical, it’s time to attach the gas springs.
Snap the ends of the springs onto the
ball stud plates on the bed frame and
the cabinet verticals. The springs are
marked with a “This End Up” sign; fol-
low the directions carefully. Attach the
bed stops from inside the cabinet.
With the bed held in place by the gas
springs, go ahead and move the cabi-
net up against the wall. Mark the stud
locations just above the bed header
and attach with screws (Photo 10).
Slide the bookcases in position and
attach to the bed cabinet. All that’s left
is to remount the crowns and add the
tops (Photo 11). Go ahead and pull the
bed frame down and swing the leg sup-
ports to the floor. Without the mattress,
the bed will want to close back up. Add a
little weight to it to hold it down while
you attach the two 1/4-in. plywood mat-
DESIGNED TO MOVE WITH YOU
D
DES
tress supports to the inner frame. Add
the elastic retaining straps and you’re
ready to set the mattress into place.
© 2014 VF Jeanswear Inc. 22 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
CABINET
THE NEW MODERN

SERIES
BED
FRAME
1
PREMIUM MATERIAL
Mirrors your movements
ASSEMBLE THE BED CABINET like, well, a mirror 2
9 Assemble the cabinet and bed frame face down on the floor. Protect the
floor with cardboard or padding. Then stand up the cabinet and add the header.
INNOVATIVE FIBERS
Both soft and strong.
Crazy, right?
STUD
LOCATION
SCREW THE CABINET TO THE WALL.

10 Make sure the cabinet is square—you may need to nudge the top
slightly left or right to square it. Then drive at least three 3-in. screws into studs.
3
SUPERIOR FABRIC
Gives, recovers, gives 4
recovers, gives...
ADVANCED DENIM
20ish % more flexible
than regular denim
NEVER SACRIFICE COMFORT

FOR LOOKING GOOD
ADD THE SIDE CABINETS
1 1 Screw the side cabinets to the bed cabinet, hiding the screws behind
the face frames and under shelves. Finally, fasten the cabinet tops and your
Murphy bed is ready for guests. TRY ON A PAIR AT KOHL’S ®
f ami lyh an d ym an.co m DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 23 /leejeans @leejeans
NO. 8 x 1-1/4"
VENTILATION
Figure A D
HOLE FOR
LIGHTS
Murphy bed CC
Overall dimensions:
K
104" wide x 82-3/4" tall x 18-1/4" deep
QQ
For plywood cutting diagrams, go to L RR
familyhandyman.com/murphybed V
NO. 8 x 1-1/4"
E PP
JJJ
BB
NN
B
MM
HHH H
KK
YY
LL
BRASS
J
KNOB
ZZ DIMMER
SWITCH
NO. 8
x 2"
WW
C
X
UU HHH
AA
GGG
BBB
AAA
G
A
XX
VV Materials List
ITEM QTY.
FFF 4’ x 8’ x 3/4” oak plywood 5
4’ x 8’ x 1/2” MDF 1
4’ x 8’ x 1/4” oak plywood 2
3/4” solid oak* 60 bd. ft.
*Includes material for resawing into 1/4”-thick stock.

VENTILATION HOLE
FOR LIGHTS
M CC
Figure B S
Bookcase
SS T TT
W PP
MMM
NNN
DD EE
F
JJ
P
FF
HH
GG
Q
LLL
EEE
CCC N
KKK
DDD
Take your craftsmanship talents into
Z
hyper drive. Introducing next generation
Sonicrafters from Rockwell. Cutting
speeds up to 2X faster, and an industry-
best maximum load of 35 lbs. Featuring
We ordered the following supplies from rockler.com:
Rockwell’s Universal Fit System and
Q Deluxe Murphy Bed Hardware Kit, Item No. 46025 Q
Q Murphy Bed Box Light Kit, Item No. 31965 Item No. 10910 patented tool-free Hyperlock™. Use any
Q Single Bookcase Light Kit, Item No. 31953 Q 10" Series 757 100-lb. Slides (two pairs),
Q Item No. 48386 blade. And know for certain it’ll never slip.
Q Q 95° Thick Door Frameless Inset Hinges (two pairs),
Item No. 11014 Item No. 55879
Q
RO CK Y O U R NE XT PRO J E CT AT
Q Continued on p. 86
ROCKWELLTOOLS.COM
f ami lyh an d ym an.co m DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 25

MACKINTOSH
TABLE
You can build this Arts & Crafts
classic with inexpensive wood
and two basic power tools
ART DIRECTION MARCIA ROEPKE • PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA • ILLUSTRATIONS FRANK ROHRBACH III
by Tom Caspar
26 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 fam ilyh an d ym an.c o m editors@thefamilyhandyman.com
TWO POWER TOOLS
A table saw and
For a while now, I’ve been on
a plate joiner are
the lookout for a simple
all the muscle
piece of furniture for my
you’ll need.
brother to make. He has a
modest shop and some
experience building, but he’s
ready to tackle a “real” proj-
READY-TO-GO
ect. This table is perfect. It’s
MATERIALS
also a great design for a
Make the whole
more experienced builder
project from
who appreciates a project
paint-grade
that’s quick and easy.
yellow poplar.
You can build the table
from paint-grade yellow
poplar. It’s widely available A WELL-CRAFTED
at home centers in 1x3s, 1x4s DRAWER
and other standard sizes. The joints are just
You’ll also need 1/2-in.-thick 1/4-in. oak pegs.
and 1/4-in.-thick material for
the drawer. The total cost
for the wood will be well
under $100. Aside from a
drill, all you’ll need to build
the table are two power First make the sides
tools: a table saw and a When you buy your lumber (see Materials List, p. 28), select pieces
that are straight and flat. To make finishing easier, stay away from
plate joiner. A drill press is
pieces that are green or have black streaks. Most stores have large
helpful but not necessary. piles to pick through—and you won’t need much wood—so be
This table was originally choosy.
Start by cutting the legs (A) from your 1x3 material. You won’t have
designed in 1904 by the to rip the wood; just cut the pieces to final length. Mark the top end
Scottish architect Charles of each leg to indicate which sides face out (Photo 1). I always mark
each piece of a project like this. If you make your marks anywhere
Rennie Mackintosh for a
else, sanding will erase them. Ends usually don’t get sanded.
home in Glasgow. Like so Draw centerlines for the biscuits that will join the legs to the sides
many other things Scottish, (B) and drawer guides (C)—see Figure A. Draw these lines across the
inside faces of the legs. Position each leg so that its outside edge
it’s economical in terms of faces up, then place a poplar offcut under the plate joiner and cut
time, materials and tools. the slots (Photo 2).
Use 1x6s to make the sides and 1x4s to make the drawer guides.
Again, you won’t have to rip the wood, but this time cut each piece
1 in. extra long. Glue the pieces together, making sure their top edges

OUTSIDE DRAWER
OUTSIDE GUIDE
EDGE
EDGE
SIDE
OUTSIDE SLOT
FACE CENTERLINE
INSIDE SPACER
EDGE
CUT THE TABLE LEGS MAKE THE BISCUIT SLOTS GLUE SIDES AND GUIDES
1 Begin by cutting the table legs
from poplar 1x4s. Mark the ends of all
2 Cut a pair of No. 20 biscuit slots
in the top end of each leg. Place a
3 Glue together the table’s sides and
drawer guides, cut 1 in. extra long.
the parts to identify the sides that face 3/4-in. scrap under the plate joiner to After the glue dries, trim them to final
out. space the slots. length.
SLOT
CENTERLINE
SLOT
CENTERLINE
SPACER COMBINATION
SQUARE
MAKE SLOTS IN THE GUIDES CUT SLOTS IN STRETCHERS GLUE TABLE SIDES
4 Cut biscuit slots in the side/
guides, using the spacer again. This
5 Make vertical slots in the
stretchers that go between the legs.
6 Glue the sides of the table. Use a
combination square to make sure the
puts the drawer guides flush with the Butt the plate joiner against a spacer to stretcher is in the correct position.
inside edge of the legs. locate each slot.
are flush (Photo 3). Cut some more 1x3 ends of the long stretchers (without Materials List
material to make the long stretchers (D). using the spacer, of course).
Also make these pieces 1 in. extra long. Cut vertical slots on the inside faces of ITEM QTY.
After the glue dries, cut the side/ the long stretchers ( Photo 5 ). Make a 1x3 yellow poplar 16 lin. ft.
1x4 yellow poplar 6 lin. ft.
guides and long stretchers to the same 2-5/8-in. spacer from a 1x3 for position-
1x6 yellow poplar 4 lin. ft.
final length. Draw biscuit-slot centerlines ing the outside slots (Figure D). Make a 1x8 yellow poplar 5 lin. ft.
on the outside faces of the side/guides, 5-7/8-in. spacer for the middle slots. 1/2x4 yellow poplar 3 lin. ft.
then place the pieces face up on your Smooth the inside faces of the legs 1/4x6 yellow poplar 3 lin. ft.
1/4" oak dowel 1 ft.
bench and cut slots in them (Photo 4). with 150-grit sandpaper. In addition,
No. 20 biscuits 14
Use the same offcut as a spacer under sand the outside faces of the side/guides No. 10 biscuits 10
the plate joiner. This method ensures and both faces of the long stretchers. Desktop fasteners 6
that the drawer guides will be flush with Glue all these pieces together (Photo 6). 5/8” No. 6 screws 14
Knob and glue
the inside edge of the legs. That’s essen-
tial for the drawer to work right. Join the sides
Next, adjust your plate joiner to make The curves on the table’s front apron (E) 2-3/4 in. wide. Cut 1-3/4-in.-long pieces
No. 10 slots. Mark and cut slots in the are a beautiful detail—and easy to make. from both ends of the narrow offcut and
legs to receive the long stretchers. Place Start by cutting the apron 1 in. extra long glue them back to the main piece. Once
the spacer under the plate joiner this from a piece of 1x4. Rip it 3-1/4 in. wide. the glue dries, trim 1/2 in. from one end
time too. Cut corresponding slots in the Discard the waste, then rip it again to of this piece, then trim the piece to final

WOOD RASP
SPACER
GLUED PIECE
OPEN
APRON END
FLUSH
CREATE ARCHES GLUE THE BASE CUT SLOTS IN STRETCHERS

7 Shape arches from small pieces 8 Glue the table’s base. Clamp 9 Cut open-ended slots in the short
glued to the table’s apron. With so little spacers between the legs to make sure stretchers. Slide them in place, making
wood to remove, just use a rasp and they’re parallel. Be sure the table is sure their top edges are flush.
sandpaper. square.
length. Cut the table’s back (F) from a rasp and sandpaper ( Photo 7 ). Adjust the glue dries, cut short stretchers (G) to fit
piece of 1x6 and trim it to the same your plate joiner to make No. 20 slots, between the long stretchers. Cut biscuit
length. In addition, cut two 1x3 spacers then mark and cut biscuit slots in the slots in the short stretchers. The lower end
to this length. ends of the apron and back pieces. Mark of these slots must be open so you can slip
Using a 1-gallon paint can as a guide, and cut corresponding slots in the base the parts in place (Photo 9). That’s easy to
draw the apron’s arches on the small (Figure D). do—just make three overlapping cuts with
pieces you cut and glued to the apron Glue the base together, clamping the the plate joiner to form each slot. Glue bis-
(Figure F, p. 86). Form the arches with a spacers between the legs (Photo 8). After cuits into the long stretchers, then apply
Figure A
Holiday Mackintosh table
J
trimmings
your guy DESKTOP
5/8" NO. 6
SCREW Q NO. 20
BISCUIT DRAWER
GUIDE
will love. FASTENER
F
(C)
Give him the gift of versatility

this holiday season with the
Remington Wet Tech Bundle E H
B
gift set, which includes our

state-of-the-art shaver and trimmer.
APRON
NO. 20
Specially designed BISCUIT
to work wet or
dry, it’s our SIDE
closest, most
A
comfortable
shave that he’ll
experience in or
out of the shower.
Trimming has never

been this enjoyable.
NO. 10
NO. 10 BISCUIT
BISCUIT D
SHORT
STRETCHER
OPEN-ENDED
SLOT
LONG
STRETCHER
For Figures E
and F, see p. 86.
© 2014 Spectrum Brands, Inc.
Figure B
Drawer
M
K 3/16" LIP
L
1/4" x 1/4"
GROOVE
P
1/4" SPACE
BELOW GROOVE
30 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 f a m ily h a n d y m a n . c o m

Figure C glue to the short stretchers and slide of 1x8. Trim each piece to final length,
Front view them over the biscuits. then glue them together, making sure
Cut the drawer runners (H) to size their ends are even. Rip the top to
2-3/4"
4-1/8" and glue them in place. Their front width after the glue dries. Sand the top
edges must be level with the top of the to even the joints, starting with 60-grit
1-3/8" apron. Use a combination square to paper. Continue with 100 grit, then
make sure the runners are parallel to finish with 150 grit. Cut bevels around
the top edges of the drawer guides. the top by tilting your saw blade to 20
APRON degrees (Photo 10 and Figure E, p. 86).
Make the top Using a Forstner bit, drill holes for
Assemble the top (J) from three pieces desktop fasteners in the top edges of
Introducing the fastest

clamping system in the shop!
3/4"
Figure D
Side view
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4-1/8"
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DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 31
DESKTOP
FASTENER
FASTEN TOP TO BASE CUT RABBETS

Saw bevels around the table’s 1 1 12
SAW BEVEL EDGES
10
top. Use a tall sliding fence to support
Screw the top to the base
using desktop fasteners. Positioned on
Begin making the drawer by
using a dado set to cut rabbets in the
the top. the outside, they won’t interfere with drawer’s front.
the drawer.
DRAWER
BOTTOM
GROOVE
DRILL HOLES IN SIDES GLUE THE DRAWER GLUE IN PEGS

13 Drill 1/4-in. holes through the 14 Glue the drawer together.
drawer’s sides, then cut grooves in the Position the back of the drawer so it
15 Drill through the 1/4-in. holes
to make them deeper, then glue in
front and sides to receive the drawer’s sits just above the groove for the short pegs. This makes a very strong
bottom. drawer’s bottom. joint.
the table’s sides (Figure A). Screw the fas- Drill 1/4-in. holes in the sides (Photo other two holes (they’re just for show).
teners in place, then turn over the table’s 13). A drill press is best, but you can do Cut pieces for the drawer’s bottom (N)
base and center it on the top. Fasten the this by hand—just make sure the holes from 1/4-in. poplar. Trim them to final
base to the top (Photo 11). are perpendicular. Using a 1/4-in. dado length and glue them together (Photo 16).
set (or by making two passes with a regu- Clamping boards this thin is very diffi-
Build a well-crafted lar blade), cut grooves for the drawer cult—I use wedges instead. Cut the
drawer bottom in the front and side pieces. In bottom to final width.
Now build the drawer. Cut the drawer addition, cut 1/4-in.-wide dadoes in the Using 60-grit paper, sand the edges of
front (K) slightly undersize—it should be side pieces to receive the drawer’s back the bottom until the bottom slides easily
1/32 in. narrower than the space above (M). Cut the back to width and length. in the drawer’s grooves (Photo 17). Fasten
the table’s apron and 1/32 in. shorter Glue the drawer together using clamps the bottom to the drawer’s back with
than the distance between the table’s in both directions to make sure the front screws. Remove the table’s top, then slide
legs. Using 1/2-in. poplar, cut the drawer joints are tight (Photo 14). After the glue the drawer into the table. Position the
sides (L) the same width as the front. dries, drill through the holes in the drawer’s front flush with the legs, then
Trim them to final length. Using a drawer’s sides, making them 1 in. deep. make stops (Q) to fill the small gap
1/2-in.-wide dado set, cut rabbets in the Note: Don’t drill the holes directly oppo- behind the drawer’s sides. Glue the stops
ends of the drawer front to receive the site the drawer bottom grooves. to the base.
sides (Figure B and Photo 12). (You could Cut 1-in. pegs from 1/4-in. oak rods,
also make multiple cuts with a regular then glue them in the holes you drilled Finally, finish your table
blade.) (Photo 15). Glue 1/4-in.-long pegs in the Finish the top of the table separately. It

Clogged aerator?
WEDGE
Erratic
stream?
FIT DRAWER BOTTOM
16 GLUE UP BOTTOM
Glue up the drawer’s bottom
from 1/4-in. poplar. Use opposing
1 7 Slide the bottom into the
drawer. Don’t use glue, because the Simply replace
wedges to squeeze the pieces between bottom must be free to expand and
two clamped boards. contract. your old dirty
should have equal coats of finish on both aerator with a
sides, so it doesn’t warp.
The original Mackintosh table was
new water
painted white, and if you’d like to paint saving aerator.
your table, we recommend aerosol paint.
You can also let the wood darken natu-
rally. I chose to stain my table instead. To
avoid a blotchy look, I first sealed the
table with two coats of water-base poly.
Then I applied a coat of amber shellac,
thinned 50 percent with denatured alco-
hol, to give the wood a golden color. I
applied two coats of gel stain (General
Finishes’ “Candlelite”) followed by two Simple Steps to
more coats of poly (Photo 18). Whatever
STAIN AND SEAL Go Green and
stain approach you choose, be sure to
test it thoroughly on pieces of scrap.
18 Seal the wood with two
coats of poly, then use thin coats of $ave Green.
gel stain. Plain poplar can look quite Save up
See Figures E and F on p. 86. pretty! to 30%
Water
Cutting List Available in three different streams:

KEY QTY. DIMENSIONS NAME
A 4 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 29-1/4" Legs
B 2 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 12-1/2" Sides
C 2 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 12-1/2" Drawer guides
D 2 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 12-1/2" Long stretchers
E 1 3/4" x 3" x 9-1/4" Apron
F 1 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 9-1/4" Back
Aerated Laminar Spray
G 3 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 10-3/4" Short stretchers
H 2 3/4" x 3/4" x 12-1/2" Drawer runners
J 1 3/4" x 16-3/4" x 17" Top
K 1 3/4" x 2-3/4" x 9-1/4" Drawer front
L 2 1/2" x 2-3/4" x 12-3/4" Drawer sides
M 1 1/2" x 2-1/8" x 8-3/4" Drawer back
Exclusively at
N 1 1/4" x 12-1/4" x 8-11/16" Drawer bottom
P 8 1/4"-dia. x 1" Drawer pegs
Q 2 1/4" x 1" x 2-3/4" Drawer stops
www.neoperl.com/consumer
For more information,
in stores and online at email us at
f ami lyh an d ym an.co m DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 33 www.homedepot.com info@neoperl.com
SHOWCA
WALL Turn a bland wall into a showstopper for $300!
by Jeff Gorton
editors@thefamilyhandyman.com
T here aren’t many DIY projects that will give you as much bang for the buck as this dramatic drywall
showcase. Granted, you’ll have a chunk of time invested before you’re done, but the materials are readily
available and inexpensive. As you’ll see, it’s just 2x6 framing covered with drywall. And the beauty of this
type of construction is that the design is limited only by your imagination. You can build shelves just like
ours, or you can design any other size and shape you like. In this article we’ll show you how to build the
frame, hang the drywall, and finish the project with corner bead and drywall tape. We’ll also show you how
to add an outlet for the TV and wire the switch and lights. For more information on how to hang and tape
drywall and install outlets, switches and rough-in wiring, go to familyhandyman.com.
Our wall is 12 ft. wide with a 9-ft. ceiling. We designed the 18-in.-
deep shelves to accommodate home theater gear and the center
rectangle to fit around a 60-in. TV screen. This arrangement also
looks great even if your ceilings are only 8 ft. high. And keep in mind
that you don’t have to build your shelves wall to wall. You can leave
one or both ends exposed and simply finish them with drywall.
DRAMATIC RESULTS
WITH CHEAP MATERIALS
Stunning projects usually carry a stunning price tag. Not
this one. It requires only common 2x6 framing lumber,
drywall, corner beads and joint compound. All of the
materials for this project (not including the lights
and wiring) cost us only $300. And you can get
everything off-the-shelf at your local home
center or hardware store.
WHAT IT TAKES
COST: $300 for the shelves, $275 for the dimmer, lights,
LED bulbs and AFCI outlet
TIME: About 40 hours
TOOLS: Circular saw, drywall square, drywall screw gun,
tin snips, 6- and 8-in. taping knives and mud pan, volt-
age sniffer, wire cutter and stripper, painting tools

ASE

STRING
CABLE FROM
EXISTING
OUTLET
EXISTING
OUTLET
CABLE TO
TV OUTLET STRING
1 MARK IT OUT ON THE WALL

Mark the location of the framing and snap chalk lines on the wall. Make sure
there’s at least 1/2 in. between the outside lines and the walls, floor and
2 ADD A SWITCH AND OUTLET
If your project includes a TV and
lights, you’ll need another outlet and a
ceiling, and that the lines are level and plumb. switch. Start by turning off the power to
the existing outlet. Cut a hole for the
new TV outlet and another hole directly
below, near the floor. Extend NM
(nonmetallic) electrical cable from the
existing outlet to the new TV outlet. Run
another cable from the new outlet
COLUMNS through the hole near the floor. Leave
enough cable to reach your switch
location plus at least 12 in. of extra
cable (Figure B).
We used a computer drawing program

called Sketchup to design these shelves.
ART DIRECTION VERN JOHNSON • PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA • TECHNICAL ART FRANK ROHRBACH III
But you can use graph paper or just map
it out on the wall. We first added about
5 in. to the width and height of the TV,
and then centered this rectangle on the
SHELF wall. When we were satisfied with the
design, we marked the wall at the verti-
cal and horizontal framing locations and
3 BUILD THE FRAMES
Pick the straightest lumber for the long lengths and cut the parts. Mark the
front and the back of the base and top for the column locations. Mark the
chalked lines to get a better sense of
how it would look ( Photo 1). We left a
column sides for the shelves. Then build the U-shape and box-shape backers and
nail the parts together. 1/2-in. space between the 2x6 framing
and the floor, walls and ceiling. The
SHIM
1/2-in. space serves two purposes. First,
it allows you to prebuild the framing and
slip it in without trying to fit it exactly to
the room. And second, the 1/2-in. space
creates a perimeter that’s the same
width (6-1/2 in.) as the rest of the verti-
cal and horizontal dividers after they’re
covered with drywall.
CABLE TO
SWITCH
Getting started
1/2" If your room is carpeted, you can either
PLYWOOD
build right over the carpet, or peel it back
and hire a carpet layer to reattach it after
you’re done. You can cut the baseboard
4 LEVEL THE BASE

Shim the base up with 1/2-in. scraps of plywood on all four corners. Then
use a level and add shims as needed to level the frame across the front and from
molding in place, or remove it like we did
and reinstall it when the shelves are
front to back. Add shims under each column. Screw the frame to the wall studs. done. Make sure the framing isn’t going

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COLUMN
TOP
to cover an electrical outlet. If it is, you’ll FRAME
have to relocate the outlet or change your

design. We’ve included a Shelf Materials
List on p. 39, but you’ll have to adjust the
quantities for your design.
Measure the distance from the floor to the 3"
TOGGLE-
ceiling at both ends of your proposed shelves. BOLT HOLE SCREW
Then measure the distance between the

STUD
walls at both the top and the bottom. LOCATION
Subtract 1 in. from the smallest measure-
TOGGLE
ment of both the width and the height. Use BOLT
these dimensions to build the frames.
Build the frames

The 2x6 framing consists of a full-length
base and top, four vertical columns and
shelves. You can build all of the parts in
your garage or backyard (Photo 3) and move
them into your room to assemble. Cut the
2x6s for the top and bottom to length and
mark the column locations. If you have a
miter saw, set up a stop and cut all the
short crosspieces you’ll need.
You can see from Figure A that you’ll need
three crosspieces, assembled into a U-shape
at each column location. Use L-shape cross-
pieces at the ends. Nail the top and bottom
frames together. Then build the columns.
The center columns have 2x6 boxes at each
shelf location to provide backing for the dry-
wall on both sides. We added flatwise 2x6s 5 SET THE COLUMNS
Screw the outside columns to the
base. Plumb them and attach them to
6 MOUNT THE TOP FRAME
Slide the top into place over the
columns. Line up the columns so the
to provide backing for our glass-shelf sup- shelves fit and screw them to the top
the wall with screws or drywall anchors.
ports. Finally, build the shelves. Position the center columns, plumb frame. Then screw the top frame to
them and attach them the same way. the wall.
Prepare for wiring

If you’re going to add lights and another
outlet, add the new outlet box and the
cable that runs to the switch before you
install the framing (Photo 2). The first step
TEMPORARY
is to turn off the power to the outlet, and SPACERS
double-check that the power is off by test-
ing the wires with a noncontact voltage
detector. Then remove the outlet and twist
wire connectors onto the black wires as an
extra precaution. Determine whether the
wires are 12 or 14 gauge. Then count the SHELF
wires in the box and calculate the box size
required, including the extra hot, neutral
and ground wire you’ll be adding. Go to
familyhandyman.com and search for
“dimmer switch” for information on calcu-
lating box sizes. If the box is too small, cut
it out and add a larger one.
Remove a knockout from the top of the
box for the new cable. If the box is metal
and doesn’t include built-in cable connec-
tors, add a cable connector to the new cable.
Next, cut the hole for the TV outlet. To make
7 POSITION THE SHELVES WITH SPACERS
Cut scraps of plywood as spacers. Rest each shelf on the spacers and
screw them to the columns. This will ensure that the shelves are lined up
running new cable much easier, try to precisely. You’ll need another set of spacers for the top shelves.

Figure A Shelf framing
Overall dimensions: 11' 11" wide x 9' tall x 17-1/2" deep
TOP FRAME
L-SHAPE
CROSSPIECES
U-SHAPE
CROSSPIECES
SHELF
61" BLOCKING
37"
GLASS-SHELF
BLOCKING
SHELF
2x6
BOXES
BOTTOM
Shelf Materials List COLUMN FRAME
ITEM QTY.
2x6 x 8' SPF (spruce, pine, fir) 22
2x6 x 12' SPF (spruce, pine, fir) 4
4' x 8' x 1/2" drywall 8
8' drywall corner beads 14
Scraps of 1/2" plywood
Shims
16d nails
2 pkgs.
2 lbs.
Electrical Supplies
3" construction screws 2 lbs. ITEM QTY.
1-1/4" drywall screws 2 lbs.
3" recessed lights* 6
1-1/4" ring-shank drywall nails 2 lbs.
Dimmable LED flood bulbs 6
1"-long, 1/4"-crown staples (optional) 1 box
14-2 or 12-2 NM cable with ground 80'
45-minute setting-type joint compound 2 bags
Single-gang remodel box 1
Premixed joint compound 1 bucket
Single-gang new-work box 1
Paper tape 1 roll
Cable connectors (optional)
Mesh tape 1 roll
Wire connectors 30
1/2" staples 30
Optional (not included in materials cost)
1/4” glass shelves 2 *We ordered 3" Recessed Lighting Kits, No. 90305
Glass-shelf supports 8 ($19 each), from lumesty.com.

1-1/4"
DRYWALL
SCREW
RECESSED
LIGHT CABLES
1/2"
DRYWALL
9 INSTALL THE DRYWALL

Attach the drywall with screws. If you
plan to caulk the back edges, get a tight fit
between the drywall and wall. Shave off
overhanging edges at the front so they
don’t interfere with corner bead installation.
TAB
SWITCH TV OUTLET
BOX BOX
CABLE TO
SWITCH 10 NAIL ON THE TOP AND
BOTTOM CORNER BEADS
Notch one of the corner beads as shown
here. Push it into the corner and mark the
opposite end. Notch the other end the
8 ROUGH-IN THE ELECTRICAL WIRING
Drill holes and run the cable to the switch box and then to the recessed
light fixture locations. Leave at least 2 ft. of extra cable at each light. Secure
same way. Fit the corner bead into the
opening and staple or nail it. Repeat on the
the cables with 1/2-in. plastic staples. opposite side of the opening.
choose a location that’s in the same Next, set the top frame in place on the col-
Install the framing
stud space as the existing outlet. If this umns. Screw the top frame to the wall, and
Tack small squares of 1/2-in. plywood
isn’t possible, you’ll have to cut out screw the top of the columns to the top frame
to the four corners of the bottom frame.
some drywall to drill through studs. (Photo 6). Finish the framing by installing the
Drill a 3/4-in. hole in the back 2x6 to
Mark around the remodel box and cut shelves (Photo 7).
feed the cable through. Set the frame in
the hole. Also cut a hole near the floor, place and level it by adding shims if Rough-in the wiring
directly under the TV outlet hole. necessary (Photo 4). When the frame is Before you start your project, contact your
Match the gauge of the new cable— level, add scraps of 1/2-in. plywood and local inspections department to find out if an
12 or 14 gauge—to the gauge of the shims under the two column locations. electrical permit is required. In most cases the
wire in the existing box. Run the NM Make sure the frame is centered, with a wiring will need to be inspected before you
(nonmetallic) cable with ground from 1/2-in. space on each end, and screw it cover it with drywall. The new electrical code
the existing outlet to the new outlet, to the wall. Next, install the columns requires an AFCI (arc-fault circuit interrupter)
and from the new outlet to the hole (Photo 5). Use a level to make sure the in many areas when new wiring is added. Ask
near the floor. Leave 12 in. of extra end column is plumb and screw it to your inspector if an AFCI is required in your
cable at the new outlet. Then run the bottom frame and to the wall. If situation. If so, simply replace the existing
enough cable from the new outlet there is no stud to drive screws into, outlet with an AFCI receptacle, and run power
through the hole near the floor to use toggle-type drywall anchors to hold from the “load” side of the AFCI outlet to the
reach your new switch location. Be the column against the wall. Then use new TV outlet and then on to the switch and
generous with the cable to the switch the shelves as spacers to make sure the lights. Any new receptacle outlets must also
to be certain you’ll have at least an columns are in the correct locations be tamper resistant.
extra foot at the switch location. before you screw them to the base. Start wiring by nailing a switch box to
That’s all the wiring you need to do There should be a 1/2-in. space the frame in a convenient location, and
for now. between the wall and the end columns. then drilling 3/4-in. holes through the

3"
RECESSED
Figure B Electrical diagrams LIGHT
DIMMER SWITCH WIRING
SWITCHED HOT
TO LIGHTS
DIMMER
SWITCH
GROUND
WIRES
NEUTRAL
WIRES
HOT FROM
TV OUTLET
HOT
WIRES
TV OUTLET WIRING ADDED AFCI
OUTLET WIRING
NEUTRAL
WIRES
EXISTING
ELECTRICAL
BOX
NEW TV
OUTLET HOT (LOAD)
NEUTRAL
HOT TO TV OUTLET
WIRE
(LINE) GROUND
WIRES
GROUND CABLE FROM

WIRES CABLE TO EXISTING
SWITCH OUTLET
framing to make a path for the new

1/4"-CROWN
cables (Photo 8 and Figure B). Run lengths STAPLER
of cable from the TV outlet to the switch,
from the switch to the first light fixture,
and between the light fixtures. Leave a
2-ft. loop of extra cable at each light fix-
ture location. For details on rough-in
wiring, go to familyhandyman.com and
search for “wiring.” SIDES
OVERLAPS
We ordered our 3-in. recessed light fix- TABS
tures online because the fixtures we found
at a home center were too tall to fit in the
drywall space and still meet the electrical
code requirement of 1/2-in. space between
the fixture and the combustible surfaces. 11 ADD CORNER BEADS
TO THE SIDES
Cut the side pieces to fit between the
12 ATTACH CORNER BEAD
WITH A STAPLER
Using a 1/4-in.-crown, pneumatic
We chose remodel-type fixtures, which are
installed after the drywall is finished. You top and the bottom notched corner stapler and 1-in.-long staples, drive
beads so they overlap the metal tabs. staples every 6 in. and wherever the
can choose any non-IC (insulation contact) Line up the corners and attach the corner bead is buckled out. Then cover
fixture you like, as long as there’s at least beads with nails or staples. the edge of the bead with mesh tape.

MESH TAPE
ADVERTISEMENT
JOINT
COMPOUND 1/2 in. between the fixture, and any com-
bustible material and insulation are kept
more than 3 in. away. You can use any
IC-rated fixture that will fit in the space.
When the wiring is in place, call for a
PAPER rough-in wiring inspection. After the
TAPE wiring is approved, move on to the dry-
wall and corner bead.
Cover the frame

with drywall
13 TAPE THE
INSIDE CORNERS
Spread a layer of joint compound on
You can cut the drywall the usual way by
scoring one side with a utility knife, bend-
MAN-MADE DIY-ER, DECKED IN both sides of the corner. Cut a piece
ing it to break at the scored line, and then
DICKIES FOR STYLE AND of paper tape and fold it to fit in the
corner. Press the tape in with your cutting the paper backing. But for fast,
COMFORT, GETS CREATIVE fingers. Then embed it with your super-clean cuts, we used a table saw to
WITH OLD ALBUM SLEEVES taping knife. Spread a thin layer of cut the drywall. We have a table saw with a
compound over the top of the tape.
good dust collection system, so it wasn’t
THE BLOGGER:
too dusty. But you could also cut the dry-
Chris Gardner, wall outdoors with a circular saw and a
ManMadeDIY.com straightedge (you can see a short video of
this dusty operation on our iPad edition).
THE PROJECT:
Stack four pieces of drywall and cut all of
Make a Secret
them in one pass. We started by cutting a
Bookshelf Stash and
2-1/2-in.-wide strip from the edge of each
Storage Spot. SETTING-TYPE sheet to remove the tapered section. We
COMPOUND
did this to avoid having a tapered edge
THE GEAR: “Dickies is known for
under the corner bead or at the back
their work-related clothing, but
where we wanted to caulk the back edges
they also make more contemporary,
rather than tape them (Photo 15). If you’re
slimmer cut clothes that work for using the score-and-break method, clean
everyday wear.” up the cut edges with a rasp.
Once the pieces are cut to width, it’s
easy to cut them to length and screw
14 FILL THE BEAD
Mix about a half bag of
setting compound with water.
them to the framing. Mark the length and
use a drywall square to score them. All
Spread a thick layer of compound
between the corner beads and drywall cuts should be 1/8 in. to 1/4 in.
smooth with an 8-in. taping knife. less than the actual measurements. You
Fill both sides of all beads. Recoat can easily fill gaps, but drywall will break
after the compound firms up.
along the edge if you try to force it in.
Attach the drywall with 1-1/4-in. drywall
SLIM STRAIGHT FIT
UNTAPED
5-POCKET JEAN
CORNER
screws. Use a special drywall screw gun,
or buy a special bit for your cordless drill
Dickies has a
that sets the screws just under the sur-
multitude of durable
styles that can tackle face without driving them too deep.
any DIY project. LATEX
CAULK
Nail on the corner bead
There are several types of corner bead.
You can buy perforated plastic corner
bead that attaches with spray adhesive,
or paper-faced corner bead that you
embed in a layer of joint compound. But
we decided to use conventional metal
15 CAULK THE
BACK CORNERS
Avoid a lot of tricky corner taping by
corner bead. To speed up the process, we
used a 1/4-in.-crown, air-powered stapler
caulking the back inside corners. Cut
to fasten the beads (Photo 12). You can
the tip of the latex caulk tube
carefully to create a very small hole. buy a stapler for as little as $30. Or
To learn more about all of the gear Then apply a neat bead of caulk and simply fasten the corner bead with 1-1/4-
Chris used for his project, visit smooth it out with your finger. in. ring-shank drywall nails.
Dickies.com 42 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 f a m ily h a n d y m a n . c o m

You’ll need a tin snips to cut the corner 3-1/4"
HOLE
bead. Photos 10 and 11 show an easy method
for cutting the metal beads to length and cre-
CABLE
ating a strong corner. The key to installing CONNECTOR
HOT WIRES
corner beads is to press them in until the out-
side corner is just slightly proud of the dry-
wall before driving the fasteners. Also, adjust
the position of the bead so the corners of
adjoining beads line up. For extra insurance
against cracking, cover all the corner bead
GROUND
edges with adhesive-backed mesh tape. WIRES
NEUTRAL
Tape the corners WIRES
and fill the bead

To save time, we decided to confine our
taping to the intersection of the sides and
tops of the drywall recesses (Photo 13). We
caulked the back edges later (Photo 15). Start
16 INSTALL THE RECESSED LIGHTS
Cut holes for the lights using the template provided, or a large hole saw
mounted in a drill (we used a 3-1/4-in. hole saw). Remove the cover and
by taping the inside corners. Then fill the knockouts and add cable connectors if they’re not built into the fixture. Push
corner beads with joint compound. Use the cable(s) through the connectors and connect hot, neutral and ground
wires with the appropriate wire connectors.
45-minute setting-type compound for this.
Mix the powder with water according to the
instructions on the bag. Then use an 8-in.
taping knife to fill the corner beads (Photo
14). We used almost two full bags of setting
compound for this project. When the joint
compound has firmed up to the consistency
of soap, carve off any lumps and high spots
with your taping knife. You can add another
1/4"
coat as soon as the compound hardens. You POLISHED-EDGE
don’t have to wait for it to dry completely. PLATE GLASS
Don’t rush this part of the job. Plan on

spending a few hours a day for several
days. Use premixed joint compound for
the final coats, letting it dry between each
coat. Trowel on thin coats until you’ve got SHELF
SUPPORT
a smooth, flat surface. Let the final coat
dry. Then sand carefully with 120-grit dry-
wall sandpaper mounted on a drywall
sander. Use a fine sanding sponge with an
angled edge to sand the inside corners. 17 ADD GLASS SHELVES
Screw shelf supports into the 2x6 backer, making sure they’re level
with each other. Set the 1/4-in. polished-edge glass shelves on the supports.
Vacuum all the dust from the surfaces and
check your work with a strong raking light.
Fill any imperfections, resand, and you’re
bulbs ($12 each) in our fixtures. If way we could run HDMI and other
ready to prime and paint.
you’re using LED bulbs and want to audio/video cables through the wall
install a dimmer, check the manufac- from the components to the TV. Make
Finish the wiring turer’s instructions to make sure the sure the cables are rated for in-wall
When you’re done sanding the drywall, switch is compatible with the brand of use—look for CL2- or CL3-rated cables.
you can install the recessed lights. Then LED bulb you’re using. When the wiring We also installed 1/4-in. polished-
when the painting is complete, finish the is complete, turn on the circuit breaker edge plate-glass shelves in two com-
wiring by adding the outlets and connect- to check your work. Then call the elec- partments ( Photo 17 ). To protect the
ing the switch or dimmer switch. For more trical inspector for a final inspection. drywall from wear and moisture (such
help with installing switches and outlets, as from potted plants), consider
go to familyhandyman.com and search Finishing touches having more glass pieces cut that you
for “switch” or “outlet.” Figure B shows Since we wanted to use the shelves as can use to cover the bottoms of the
how to wire the outlets and dimmer an entertainment center, we cut holes other compartments. Reinstall the
switch. Photo 16 shows how to install the for low-voltage old-work brackets in baseboard molding and you’re ready to
recessed lights. the back wall of the TV compartment move in and enjoy your dramatic new
We used 6-watt dimmable LED flood and the compartment below it. That display wall.

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Handy HINTS
FROM OUR READERS handyhints@thefamilyhandyman.com
SHINE ON….
Recently I needed to polish brass parts for a project. I didn’t have a buffing
disc, so I looked around the shop for an alternative. I saw several paint
roller covers that I thought might work—but how to drive them? I found
that they fit tightly on a 1-1/2-in. hole saw. I cut a 3-in. length of roller
cover, inserted the hole saw and chucked it into my drill press. It worked
great, and I’ve used this method often to buff and polish jewelry and all
sorts of other items. You can buy buffing compound at a hobby store.
Bill Wells
EDITOR DAVID RADTKE • ART DIRECTION MARCIA ROEPKE • PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA
Closing the gap

Keep mulch from clogging the
tailgate opening of your truck.
Use a PVC pipe to fill the gap.
When I’m not using the pipe, I
store it behind the front seat.
Homemade nut loosener
Francis Itaya Rusted bolts and nuts can be stubborn as all get out to loosen. I make my own rust
penetrant by mixing half automatic transmission fluid and half acetone in a metal
oilcan. The solution really penetrates—after a few minutes, even the toughest bolts
Get $100 for your and nuts spin loose (with a little elbow grease, that is). Best yet, it’s stuff I already
Handy Hint! See p. 4 for details. have on the garage shelf.
Calvin Stevens

STIR IT UP
I buy a lot of quart cans of paint, and even-
tually the pigments settle to the bottom of
the can. To speed up the mixing, I use a Diverter lube
paint can opener chucked into my drill. I cut Over time, the hard water in our area leaves deposits in the moving parts
and straightened the bent prying end and of the plumbing. When our tub spout diverter clogs, I use WD-40 with its
ground it flush with the shaft. Now when- spray nozzle curved up the spout to the diverter valve. A couple of sprays
ever I have paint that needs mixing, I gets things loosened up and working again.
tighten the modified opener in the drill Jackson Tutt
chuck and stir away!
Ron Nitchie
CORD
Stool leg protector CLIP
The legs on my stool have sharp ends that A paper binder clip
slice through the plastic caps. To solve this works great to manage
problem, I place a washer the small electrical cords. I
same diameter as the pipe into use one to keep my long
the plastic cap and then fit it headphone cords neatly
onto the leg. Now the stool is wound and tangle-free.
no longer marring the floor. Michael Johnson
Peter Trivilino

Switch
ANYTHING
from
ANYWHERE!
GETTY
GETTY
GETTY
Just because you’re stuck at work doesn’t
mean you can’t shut the garage door your teen-
ager left open or unlock the front door for the
house cleaners and relock it when they leave. And on
your way home, you can warm up your house and preheat the
oven with just a few taps on your smartphone.
There’s a large, and rapidly growing, selection of devices that can be controlled
remotely. The beauty of most of these options is that they can be installed with-
out running new wires. At most, you’ll have to replace a switch or a receptacle.
Best of all, you don’t have to be a computer programmer to get them working.
You can spend thousands of dollars on a whole-house automation system or
just spend $15 on one wireless switch to operate your favorite lamp.
by Mark Petersen
editors@thefamilyhandyman.com

HOME MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
IRIS APP ON
SMARTPHONE
If you like the idea of being
A central hub operates the devices in your home,
able to control every switch,
and you control the hub with your smartphone,
outlet, electronic device and
tablet or computer…from anywhere.
appliance in your house,
you’ll want to buy a home
management system like the
Iris shown here. Most home
management systems con-
sist of a central hub that con-
nects to your home wireless IRIS SMART HUB: Can remotely
network and allows you to control hundreds of
control security systems and devices and appliances IRIS
using your computer or IRIS SMART HUB THERMOSTAT
any number of devices from
anywhere in the world using a the Iris app. $100.
smartphone, tablet or
computer.
How it works: The central
hub communicates with
HARDWIRED
compatible devices in the SWITCH
home via an RF (radio fre-
quency) wireless protocol. IRIS THERMOSTAT:
The devices and the hub need Change temperature
to share the same protocol in settings or program
order to communicate with weekly schedules. $99.
each other. Z-Wave, ZigBee
and INSTEON are some of
the more common RF proto-
cols on the market. Some GE SINGLE-POLE
LIGHT SWITCH ELECTRONIC
home management systems DOOR LEVER
operate on more than one (works with Iris):
protocol, which means they Hardwired switch
can manage a wider variety controls existing
of devices. lights. $35.
There are several advan-
tages to a home manage-
ment system. Because the
hub communicates by way of HARDWIRED SCHLAGE ELECTRONIC
RF rather than Wi-Fi, it won’t RECEPTACLE
DOOR LEVER: Operates
ART DIRECTION MARCIA ROEPKE • PHOTOGRAPHY HSP UNLESS NOTED
bog down your home Wi-Fi with key, by push-button

system. You only have to code, or remotely. $200.
download (and learn) one
interface instead of a bunch.
SMART PLUG
And it’s easier and cheaper to
add devices at a later date.
The Iris system by Lowe’s,
shown at right, starts at GE 15-AMP
$100, with packages includ- ELECTRICAL
ing thermostats, outlets and OUTLET (with
security for $180 to $300. Iris): Hardwired
Another popular system is receptacle. $35.
Lutron’s Caséta, which con- IRIS SMART PLUG: Plug-in
trols lights, shades, dimmers (no wiring necessary) recep-
and thermostats (starting at tacle remotely monitors
$120). power consumption of indi-
vidual appliances. $30.

INDIVIDUAL DEVICE SYSTEMS
SMARTPHONE
WITH WeMo APP
There are devices that
Use your smart phone to communicate with individual
can be operated
devices using an app provided by the manufacturer.
remotely by your mobile
device and that don’t
require a whole-house
system. Belkin is one
company that makes a
BELKIN NETCAM
line of products under
the WeMo brand that
work individually, using
the Wi-Fi signal in your
house. It offers outlets,
HARDWIRED
a light switch and a WeMo
camera. WeMo even LIGHT SWITCH
teamed up with the
folks at Crock-Pot, so
BELKIN NETCAM
now you can remotely
WITH NIGHT
power up and adjust the
VISION: Watch
temperature so your pot
your home on
roast will be finished to
your smartphone WeMo SWITCH
perfection exactly when
or tablet from
you want it to be. WeMo LIGHT
anywhere. $100.
There are other SWITCH: Hardwired
stand-alone products light switch. $50.
that don’t require a
whole-house system.
Several thermostats
can work independently
with your smartphone,
WeMo SWITCH: Plug-in
tablet or computer.
CROCK-POT SMART SLOW: receptacle. $50.
Lawn irrigation systems
Slow cooker operated by
are also joining the
WeMo app. $130.
remote bandwagon.
And this MyQ Garage
overhead door control-
ler turns your old garage
door opener into a mod-
ern-day smart device. It
requires no wiring and
SMARTPHONE
works on most garage WITH MyQ APP CHAMBERLAIN MyQ GARAGE
doors manufactured DOOR CONTROLLER: Operates
after 1993. But remem- existing garage door opener
ber, most of these with free MyQ app. $130.
stand-alone products
use a home’s Wi-Fi, and
too many individually
controlled devices
could result in sluggish DOOR SENSOR
Internet speeds.
HUB

SIMPLE REMOTE CONTROL
Control lights and

Install an inexpensive plug-in outlet that’s controlled by a battery-operated remote that
outlets with remote
looks like a light switch. Stick the new switch on the wall where you want it and plug the
controls, some dis-
lamp into the remote-controlled outlet—problem solved. A similar setup made for exte-
guised as wall
rior use is perfect for your Christmas lights. This one is controlled by a key chain remote.
switches. There’s
no reason to spend WESTEK WALL-MOUNTED SWITCH AND PLUG-IN RECEIVER: Control this plug-in
tons of money if you outlet with a battery-operated wall switch. $15.
just want to switch
devices when you’re WESTEK
WALL-MOUNTED WESTEK PLUG-IN
at home. There are SWITCH RECEIVER
many simple
remote control gad-
gets that control
lights and outlets.
Want some cool convenience? Swap out the light switch in the TV room (or anywhere else!) with a remote dimmer
switch. That way you can turn off or dim the lights without leaving the comfort of your cushy sofa. There’s even a
memory button that remembers your favorite light level. Take note, however, that devices like these communicate with
an IR (infrared) signal that requires a clear line of sight—meaning, they’ll only work together as long as they’re in the
same room.
LUTRON MAESTRO IR REMOTE DIMMER SWITCH: Dim the lights without leaving the couch. $40.
LUTRON LUTRON
MAESTRO MAESTRO
IR REMOTE IR DIMMER
Are you notorious for forgetting to turn off the lights in the garage, shop or barn? Tired of trudging down the stairs or GETTY
across the yard to shut them off? Here’s a neat product: Convert any single-pole light switch in your house or on your
property into a three-way switch with a product like this Skylink SK-8. Replace the switch you want to control with the
Skylink receiver switch. Then attach the battery-operated remote wherever you want. The new switch will work like a
three-way that can be operated with the remote or at the source. Each switch has a specific distance limitation; some
can only travel 50 ft. This one reaches 500 ft. in open areas.
SKYLINK SK-8 WIRELESS REMOTE 3-WAY: Replace an existing switch and control it locally or with the
battery-operated wall switch. $35.
SKYLINK SKYLINK
WIRELESS RECEIVER
WALL SWITCH SWITCH

PRO tips
BY TIM JOHNSON editors@thefamilyhandyman.com
ART DIRECTION ELLEN THOMSON • PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA
Resawing on Cutting a board into thinner pieces of the same

length and width is my favorite band-sawing opera-
tion because it opens a world of woodworking oppor-
a band saw tunities. Called “resawing,” this process allows

creating wide panels from narrow boards, cutting a
board into thin pliable pieces for bent laminations,
slicing thin sheets of veneer, and even turning logs
into lumber. Like any woodworking skill, resawing
takes time and practice to master. Here are a few of
my best tips to help make resawing your favorite
band-sawing operation too.

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SET THE FENCE AT
Three must-dos for THE CORRECT ANGLE
resawing success It sounds crazy, but on most band saws, you have to angle the
stock to make a straight cut. Finding this “drift angle” and set-
1. Use a resaw blade. Specifically designed to make straight
ting the fence to match it is crucial to successful resawing.
cuts in thick stock, resaw blades are wide and have only three
Start by marking a straight line on a scrap board, parallel to
to four teeth per inch (TPI). Don’t scrimp on the price: Buy a
its edge. Then follow the line to make a straight cut, angling
high-quality blade such as the Timber Wolf 1/2-in. 3PC blade
the board as necessary. When you’ve cut far enough to estab-
I’m using here (about $36 online). Resawing with a dull blade
lish the drift angle, hold the board in position and transfer the
wastes both time and materials, so replace the blade at the
angle to the saw’s table (top photo below).
first signs of dullness—when the feed rate slows or the cut
Use the line you’ve marked to position the fence at the
starts to wander.
same angle (bottom photo). Then make test cuts and adjust
2. Install a tall resaw fence like the one shown at the bottom of
the fence as necessary to fine-tune the setup until the stock
this page. Just glue the face to the base at 90 degrees, using a
stays flush against the fence, without binding against it or
pair of gussets for stability. For the best results, make the
wandering away.
fence tall enough to completely support the board.
3. Match the feed rate to the cutting action. Simply feed the
stock at a steady pace that efficiently advances the cut with-
out significantly slowing the blade or bogging down the motor.
SQUARE THE BLADE

AND THE BOARD
Making sure the blade is perpendicular to the table is especially
important when you’re resawing a wide board. For the best results,
raise the guidepost all the way and use a square with an arm that
matches the saw’s resaw capacity (photo above left). Adjust the table
so no gaps appear between the blade and the arm. Next, make sure
the board has a square corner (photo above right). That way it will
ride flush against both the tall fence and the table during the cut.
RESAW FENCE
MEET ALIGN WITH

PENCIL MARK
THE PRO
Tim Johnson has worked with
wood for more than 40 years as
an antiques dealer, a profes-
sional furniture maker, and most
recently as senior editor
of American Woodworker and
Woodwork magazines.
Continued on p. 58
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Smart Luxuries—Surprising Prices™
12" RESAW
CAPACITY
Box in long boards

Resawing long boards is a breeze with this setup, because it auto-
matically holds the board against the fence so your hands are free
to feed the board. Make the box about as tall as the board is wide,
about as wide as the distance between the blade and the front of
the table, and about as long as the distance between the blade
6" RISER
and the table’s right edge. Position the box in front of the blade
BLOCK
and clamp it so the board fits snugly but slides between the box
and the fence without binding or wobbling.
Double your
resaw capacity
LOWEST PRICE EVER Imagine creating a 24-in.-wide book-
matched tabletop or turning a 12-in.-
on DR® Leaf Vacuums! diameter log into lumber. Installing a
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The kit includes the block and all
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Rated #1 in Vacuum Power when resawing those super-wide
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58 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
TRIANGLE
MARKS
Make it easy
to stack
resawn pieces
Resawing a board into thin, pliable pieces
allows you to create curved shapes by
bending and gluing the pieces around a
form—a process called “bent lamination.”
CABINETMAKER’S Marking the board with the cabinetmaker’s
TRIANGLE
triangle (photo at left) allows you to reas-
semble the thin pieces as they came from EASY
the board, so the lamination closely RESAWING
resembles a single piece of bent wood Partially resawing a board on your
(photo above). table saw makes resawing with
your band saw easier, because the
blade has less to cut and the saw
kerfs keep it from wandering. It’s a
Create stunning great method to use if your band
grain patterns saw bogs down during full-width
resawing, and in many cases, it
Opening a pair of resawn pieces for
the first time is my favorite part of can save time by allowing you to
resawing. That’s because resawing resaw without installing a resaw
transforms an ordinary—or even blade. Even if you can completely
homely—board into something resaw the board by raising the
extraordinary. It also turns a narrow table saw’s blade, I prefer this
board into a panel that’s twice as method, because it’s safer to
wide. Opening the pieces like a finish the cut on the band saw.
book—called book-matching—
creates a mirror image. And that’s
just the start: By simply rearranging
the two pieces, you can create other
patterns that are completely different Start with a
but just as spectacular (see below).
board that’s
thick enough
Resawing consumes some of a
board’s thickness, so don’t expect
to get three 1/4-in.-thick boards
from a 3/4-in. board. In addition to
the material lost during the initial
cut, you have to plane the resawn
pieces to flatten them and remove
the saw marks. When I resaw a
3/4-in.-thick board, I only expect to
get two 1/4-in.-thick boards.

Top Ten TIPS
BY ELISA BERNICK editors@thefamilyhandyman.com
ART DIRECTION ELLEN THOMSON • PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA UNLESS NOTED

How to
choose
paint
colors
Selecting paint colors can be a
very subjective (and difficult!)
process. But aside from what’s
fashionable at the moment, there
are some practical considerations
that can make the decision easier.
Here are our top suggestions to
help you pick paint colors and
sheens that you’ll be happy with
for years to come.
1 Use actual paint samples, not chips

It’s difficult to tell what a color is going to look like on your wall
from a small paint chip, so many manufacturers offer sample
containers of their colors. Depending on the manufacturer, you can
buy sample containers in quarts, pints or even smaller sizes, and they
range in price from $3 to $8. They’re a wise investment that will pre-
vent you from wasting money on a color that isn’t right. And because
colors can change dramatically under different lighting conditions,
instead of rolling the sample onto the wall, roll it onto white tag-
board. You’ll be able to move the sample around (as in the photo
above) and view it under all the different lighting conditions in your
home.

HARBOR FREIGHT
QUALITY TOOLS AT RIDICULOUSLY LOW PRICES
How Does Harbor Freight SUPER COUPON SUPER COUPON
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$ 99 6
ANY SINGLE ITEM Item
69080
cut out the middle man and pass shown
ITEM 69080
LIMIT 1 - Save 20% on any one item purchased at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-
69030/69031 VALUE
the savings on to you. It’s just that 423-2567. *Cannot be used with other discount, coupon, gift cards, Inside Track Club membership,
extended service plans or on any of the following: compressors, generators, tool storage or
carts, welders, floor jacks, Towable Ride-On Trencher, Saw Mill (Item 61712/62366/67138), LIMIT 1 - Cannot be used with other discount, coupon or prior purchase. Coupon good at
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500 Stores Nationwide.

R ! R !
PE ON PE ON
Garage"
R ! "The Undisputed King of the
SU UP 3 GALLON, 100 PSI PE ON – Four Wheeler Magazine SU UP
CO SU UP CO
26", 16 DRAWER
OILLESS PANCAKE CO
LOT NO.
68053 ROLLER CABINET
AIR COMPRESSOR RAPID PUMP
® 69252
• 1060 lb. Capacity
INU
1.5 TON ALUMItem M 60569/62160
• 14,600 cu. in.
Item
67831
LOT NO.
LOT NO. 95275 68053 67831/61609
60637/69486/61615 RACING JACK shown SAVE of storage shown
$59
60
SAVE
$
99 $ 99
31999
Item
89 $ REG.
39
REG.
SAVE
95275
shown $ 99$79.99
PRICE
REG. PRICE $119.99
• 3-1/2 Pumps
Lifts Most
PRICE
$499.99 $180
50% Vehicles
• Weighs 27 lbs.
be used with other discoun
t
calling 800-423-2567. Cannot s last.
or HarborFreight.com or bypurchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplie
LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores
es after 30 days from original Limit one coupon per custom
er per day. LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount
or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last. or coupon or prior purchascoupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last.
Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day. Non-transferable. Original Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day.
R ! R ! 24" CLAMP AND

R ! PE ON PE ON
PE ON SU UP SU UP CUT EDGE GUIDE
SU UP 12" SLIDING COMPOUND CO CO LOT NO. 66126
CO DOUBLE-BEVEL MITER SAVE
IDE 2500 LB.
SAW WITH LASER GU9/61970 ELECTRIC WINCH WITH 46%
LOT NO. 69684/61776/6196
WIRELESS REMOTE
$ 19999
$139 $ 99 6
CONTROL
99 SAVE
Item 61258
shown
Item REG. PRICE LOT NO. 68146
$80
69684
49
$299.99
SAVE
shown
$ 99 61258/61297/61840 REG. PRICE $12.99
$ 160 t REG. PRICE $129.99
or HarborFreight.com or bypurchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplie LIMIT 4 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount LIMIT 8 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount
LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores
er per day.
or coupon or prior purchascoupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last. or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last.
Non-transferable. Original Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day.
R ! 4000 PEAK/ R ! 16 OZ. HAMMERS R !

PE ON PE ON PE ON 17 FT. TYPE 1A
SU UP SUPER
QUIET 3200 RUNNING WATTS SU UP WITH FIBERGLASS SU UP MULTI-TASK
CO • 70 dB 6.5 HP (212 CC) CO HANDLE CO
Noise GAS GENERATORS LADDER
Level LOT NO. 67646
SAVE
LOT NO. 69676/69729 • 300 lb. Capacity
LOT NO. 69675/69728 CLAW RIP • 23 Configurations
CALIFORNIA ONLY
62% LOT NO. 47872 LOT NO. 47873
SAVE
$200 $
Item 69729 shown
69006/60715/60714
Item 47872
69005/61262
SAVE $ 99 119
29999 $80
shown YOUR CHOICE! REG. PRICE $199 .99
$ 99 2
REG.
PRICE
REG. PRICE $499.99 $7.99
LIMIT 3 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount LIMIT 6 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount LIMIT 3 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount
or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last. or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last. or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last.
Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day.
R ! R ! 18 GAUGE 2-IN-1
R ! PE ON PE ON
PE ON SU UP 90 AMP FLUX SU UP NAILER/STAPLER
SU UP SAVE 10", 12 SPEED CO CO
CO
WIRE WELDER
BENCH MOUNT
$ 100
• No Gas Required LOT NO.
ESS
DRILL PR/624 LOT NO. WE CARRY
WE CARRY A
FULL LINE OF
68019/61661
08 Item 68019 shown
LOT NO. 60237/44836 A FULL LINE OF
$9999
68887 FASTENERS
WELDING WIRE
$ 13999 61849
Item SAVE $ 1599
Item
60237
shown
REG. PRICE
$199.99 $ 99 99
REG. PRICE
68887
shown $50 SAVE
55%
REG. PRICE $35.99

t $149.99
or HarborFreight.com or bypurchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplie LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount LIMIT 6 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount
LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores
er per day. or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last. or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last.
or coupon or prior purchascoupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day.
Non-transferable. Original
R ! R !
PE ON HEAVY DUTY RETRACTABLE PE ON
LOT NO. 68986
80 PIECE R ! ADJUSTABLE SHADE
SU UP SU UP PE ON SAVE
97626/69451
AIR HOSE REEL WITH ROTARY TOOL KIT 55% AUTO-DARKENING
CO CO SU UP WELDING HELMET
3/8" x 25 FT. HOSE CO
$35$ 99 99
LOT NO. 69234/46104/69266 Item
97626
Item shown LOT NO.
69234 46092/61611
shown
SAVE
$ 4399
REG.
PRICE
$89.99
SAVE
$ 497
REG. PRICE $24.99
Item 46092
shown 49 REG. PRICE
$79.99
51% 70% be used with other discoun

t
calling 800-423-2567. CannotOffer good while supplies last.
LIMIT 3 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount LIMIT 8 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or HarborFreight.com or by
LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores purchase with original receipt. day.
after 30 days from original through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per
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R ! R ! 2.5 HP 10" INDUSTRIAL R ! 500 LB. CAPACITY

PE ON MECHANIC'S GLOVES PE ON PE ON
SU UP MEDIUM LARGE X-LARGE SU UP TILE/BRICK SAW SU UP ALUMINUM CARGO CARRIER
CO LOT NO. 61235 LOT NO. LOT NO. CO SAVE CO
LOT NO. 92655
69688/60771
$185
62434/62426 93640/60447 93641/60448
62433/62428 62432/62429
Item LOT NO. SAVE Item
92655
$70
Item 93640 69275 69275/62391 shown
shown shown
YOUR CHOICE!
SAVE $ 89 PRICE
3 $ 7999
REG. REG.
61% $9.99
$ 214 REG. PRICE
99 PRICE
$149.99
$399.99
R ! R ! 32 PIECE HEAVY DUTY

PE ON PE ON R !
SU UP 10 AMP, 3-IN-1, 1-1/8" SU UP SCREWDRIVER SET PE ON • 900 lb. PORTABLE
CO VARIABLE SPEED SDS CO SU UP Capacity SCAFFOLD
CO LOT NO. 69055/98979/6220
8
$179
ROTARY HAMMER
99
LOT NO. 61259/90764
Item 69274 LOT NO. 69274 Item 90764
shown 61882 shown SAVE
$ 70
SAVE
$125
$ 7499 REG.
PRICE
$199.99 SAVE
$ 99 5 REG.
PRICE
$14.99
Item
$ 19999 REG. PRICE
$249.99
60% 98979
shown
t
or HarborFreight.com or by
LIMIT 4 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount LIMIT 8 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores purchase with original receipt. day.
or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last. or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last. or coupon or prior purchases must be presented. Valid
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R ! R !
R ! SAVE
60" WORKBENCH WITHS PE ON HEAVY DUTY PE ON
4 PIECE 1" x 15 FT.
PE ON $ 110 AWER
FOUR DR9345 SU UP HAND TRUCK SU UP RATCHETING TIE DOWNS
SU UP 4/69054LOT NO. CO CO LOT NO. 90984/60405/61524/62322
CO
$13999 SAVE
LOT NO.
95061
Item 90984
Item
93454 50% • 600 lb.
Capacity
SAVE shown
$ 15999 60% $ 99
7
shown
$ 29
99 PRICE
REG.
REG. PRICE
$249.99 $59.99 REG. PRICE $19.99
t
LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores purchase with original receipt. day. LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount LIMIT 6 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount
or coupon or prior purchases must be presented. Valid or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last. or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last.
Non-transferable. Original coupon Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 3/13/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day.
R ! R ! 350 LB. CAPACITY FOLDING R !

PE ON PE ON PE ON
LOT NO.
RECIPROCATING SAW 97869/61790
SU UP WITH ROTATING HANDLE SU UP SAW HORSE SU UP
CO SAVE CO CO 2 HP INDUSTRIAL
Item
97869
60%
shown 5 MICRON
SAVE LOT NO.
69446/61979/60710 DUST COLLECTOR
37% • 70 Gallon Capacity
SAVE
Item 69446 shown
Item 65570
$ 99 9
REG.
$90 $ 15999
REG.
shown
LOT NO. PRICE PRICE
$ 2199
65570/61884 $15.99 $249.99
62370
REG. PRICE $54.99

R ! 10" PNEUMATIC TIRE TH R !

PE ON R ! 4-IN-1 JUMP STARTER WI PE ON
SU UP PE ON AIR COMPRESSOR SU UP 3 TON HEAVY DUTY
CO SU UP CO STEEL JACK STANDS
CO
Not for LOT NO.
LOT NO. 60666/69401
$59
30900 LOT NO. 38846
SAVE
highway 62374
use. 69385
62388 99 62453 69597/61196/62392
SAVE 62409
55% Item 38846
shown
60% Item 30900
6999 1999
Item
shown 69401
shown
$ REG.
PRICE $ REG.
PRICE
REG. $79.99
$ 99 PRICE
$9.99 3
LIMIT 7 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount
SAVE
25%
t
$44.99
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or coupon or prior purchases must be presented. Valid
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• 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed • No Hassle Return Policy • 500 Stores Nationwide

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Paint family
2 color collections
are invaluable
Paint companies have gone to a lot of
trouble (and spent a lot of money)
grouping colors into “families” and
“collections” and “concepts” and
“schemes.” Basically, these are com-
binations of complementary colors
that may not occur to you until you
see how well they work together.
There are specific room-by-room col-
lections, white-only collections, color
combinations for kids’ rooms, exterior
paint collections designed for specific
areas of the country, and so much
more.
Take advantage of all the research
already done for you by color experts.
Find brochures at paint stores and go
online to paint manufacturer web-
sites, houzz.com and Pinterest, where
you’ll find hundreds of examples of
interior and exterior paint color
combinations.
PHOTOGRAPHY HSP
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES
SHUTTER AND DOOR

COLOR COMPLEMENT
4
EXISTING ROOF AND
BRICKWORK
Consider
the neighbors!
A clashing color choice is a lose-
lose situation. You may think a purple
3 Start with the permanent colors house with red trim would be really
Base your color choice on the permanent furnishings in the room or the fea- groovy, but your neighbors will hate
tures on the exterior of your home. Inside, the flooring, rugs, artwork, blinds you. You’ll not only drag down your
and upholstery will suggest a color direction. Outside, factory-finished materials like resale value but affect theirs as well.
the roof, gutters, fascia, soffits and brickwork are existing elements whose colors Inside you only have to please yourself
rarely change but should play a role in determining your paint colors. The landscaping and your family. But remember this: If
is another important factor. Select colors that fit in with the surrounding palette. If you plan on selling, bizarre colors or
you have brilliant-colored spring-blooming trees or a sea of green foundation plant- schemes will likely turn off potential
ings, choose colors that will complement them. buyers.

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5 Lighten the ceiling color
Because ceilings are seen in shadow, the color often appears darker
than the same paint on walls. If you want the ceiling to match the wall
color, buy ceiling paint one or two shades lighter than the wall color. Or instead
of buying another gallon of a lighter shade, save money by diluting the wall
color you have with 50 percent white paint.
6
Choose the FLAT
right sheen
When you choose a color, you
have to choose its sheen, too. Most paint
companies offer flat, eggshell, satin,
semigloss and gloss as options. Glossier
finishes offer greater durability and are EGGSHELL
easier to clean, but they emphasize any
wall imperfections.
Flat paint will do a much better job of
hiding imperfections, but it’s easier to
damage than high-gloss. Flat finishes are
generally best for ceilings and low-traffic SATIN
areas like living and dining rooms where
all you’ll need to do is wipe them down
with a damp sponge. If they do get
scuffed, they’re easy to touch up.
Glossier finishes—including satin and
SEMIGLOSS
semigloss—can withstand moisture and
grease so they’re good for trim and cabi-
nets and high-traffic rooms like kitchens
and bathrooms. If you love the way flat
wall paint looks but you wish it were
more durable, try mixing it 50/50 with GLOSS
eggshell paint. The paint will still offer a

nonreflective look, but the eggshell will
add some durability to the finish.

7
PHOTOGRAPHY HSP
Skim-coat bad
walls—especially
for darker colors
Lighter colors are more forgiving in terms of
showing wall imperfections; darker colors
show more detail. If you’re set on using a
darker color (or a glossy sheen) and your
walls are in rough shape, you should really
“skim-coat” your walls with a thin layer of
drywall compound before painting (search
for “skim coat walls” at familyhandyman.
com). And even skim-coating the walls
won’t make dark colors look good in every
room.
Extremely dark colors don’t handle the
moisture in a bathroom very well; they can
look blotchy and chalky. You might want to
stick with lighter colors in that particular
room. If you’re planning to use a dark color,
reduce the number of coats necessary by
using a high-hide gray-tinted primer. Talk to
a paint store clerk to find out which tinted
primer is best for the wall color you’ve
chosen.
DON’T
BUY
CHEAP
PAINT
For the best results,
spend at least $40 to
$50 per gallon of paint.
Paint is made of sol-
vents, pigments and
resins. Better-quality
paint will be more con-
centrated with finer
pigments and higher-
grade resins, so the
final product will have a
more even color and
durable finish. It’s
tempting to try to save
money up front, but
remember, better cov-
erage means less paint
to buy—you could easily
wind up spending just
as much for two coats
of a less expensive for-
8 Don’t just paint the walls mula. Even reputable

Just as paint accentuates features, you can brands have a range of
use it to hide unappealing elements too. Paint paint qualities within
conduit, radiators, gutters and other utilitarian compo- their product lines, so
nents the same color as the walls to make them blend do your homework and
in. You can also do that with light fixtures, switches, buy the best you can
outlets and just about anything else. There are spray afford.
paints for all different types of material now. Available at Lowe’s & Participating
Hardware Stores.
f ami lyh an d ym an.co m DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 69 www.gatorfinishing.com
9
PHOTOGRAPHY HSP
Virtually paint your house
Many manufacturers offer opportunities to “paint” your
home virtually—you upload a photo of your home or a
room and try out different colors and painting schemes. You can
also search for homes similar to your own and try “painting” with ORIGINAL COLOR
various combinations and products. There are also apps that allow
you to take a photo of a color you like and have it matched with a
manufacturer’s color or suggested palette (Paint My Place on
iTunes is one example).
Just be aware that your
computer monitor, cell
phone or iPad screen will
affect the color of the
paint you see, so don’t
skip Tip 1!
FADED A FEW
YEARS LATER
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Perfect for Homeowners
Plow your own driveway
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Vivid exterior
10
you currently hire a plow. Don’t
struggle snow-blowing your entire
driveway…give yourself a break
colors fade
with the RediPlow! faster
For trucks, SUVs, ATVs, UTVs. Attaches to a front receiver hitch (included). The more intense or dark a color is, the
Automatically engages when you drive forward and releases when you reverse. more likely it is to fade and show dirt.
FOR ATVS & UTVS!
Works on gravel or pavement. Can be locked in travel position. After a few years, vivid blues and deep
One pass and you’re free to go! Never be trapped waiting for a reds will become subdued, and you may
snow plow again. The Redi-Plow is light enough for one person to handle. see streaks and splotches of dirt more
Clear your parking area, and a path to the barn with ease!
readily. Dark colors can also absorb heat
Tough Enough For Any Snowstorm! and sustain more moisture problems
• No hydraulics or electric components • Heavy-duty rubber blade edge • Receiver Hitch Included than lighter shades. And because dark
paint fades, it can be difficult to match
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exactly when you do small touch-ups.
On the plus side, dark colors can give
your house an air of dignity or drama.
Generally, colors like red, blue, green and
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B Y R I C K M U S C O P L AT editors@thefamilyhandyman.com
ART DIRECTION MARCIA ROEPKE • PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA

Recaulk
a tub or
shower
Anybody can recaulk a tub or shower. All
you need is a tube of caulk and a caulk-
ing gun. But if you don’t prep the sur-
faces properly, the caulk won’t last long.
And if you’re sloppy, the messy caulk job
will ruin the look of even the most beau-
tiful tile job. We talked to a few experts to
learn how they get such smooth, clean-
looking caulk lines, and we’ll show you
their technique. And we’ll show you the
best way to remove the old caulk and
prep the surface to get a long-lasting
caulk job. Finally, we’ll give you a heads-
up on how to avoid the most common
caulking mistakes.
You can remove the old caulk, prep the
surface, and recaulk a tub or shower in
about four hours (including drying time).
You’ll need a razor scraper and single-
edge razor blades, caulk remover, min-
eral spirits, paper towels, a utility knife, a
caulk gun, and kitchen and bath caulk.
An oscillating tool with a flexible scraper
blade really speeds up the job of remov-
ing old caulk, but you can do the job However, silicone lasts longer than latex to stop the flow quickly. High-quality
without it. Here’s how to start. and stays flexible over its life. But it’s caulk guns cost a bit more (about $15),
harder to remove when it’s time to but they’re worth it. Economy guns usu-
Buy the right caulk recaulk. Both types can develop mold ally have a ratchet action or a sloppy fric-
and a quality caulk gun and mildew once the additives wear out. tion mechanism that pushes the caulk
Tubs and showers require a special caulk Most home centers and hardware out in bursts, so you apply too much in
that contains mold and mildew preven- stores stock only three kitchen and bath some areas and too little in others.
tion additives. The tubes are usually caulk colors: white, almond and clear.
labeled “for kitchen and bath use.” Most However, ask a salesclerk whether you Remove the old caulk
are 100 percent silicone, but you can also can special-order a custom color. And You can’t apply new caulk on top of the
find some latex versions. Latex caulk is check out a paint or hardware store. Some old and expect it to last. So the old caulk
easier to tool and cleans up with soap can custom-mix colors right in the store. has to go. If the old caulk was silicone,
and water. If this is your first time apply- A high-quality caulk gun can make a you have to devote extra effort to remove
ing caulk, latex may be your best option. difference in your caulk job. It has a stur- all traces of it before applying new caulk.
Silicone is more challenging to tool and dier plunger mechanism to provide a Start by slicing through the old caulk
requires mineral spirits for cleanup. smooth, even flow and a pressure release with a utility knife or an oscillating tool

1 CUT AND PEEL THE OLD CAULK
Slice through the caulk along the walls with a utility knife or with an
oscillating tool equipped with a flexible scraper blade. Then use your knife or tool
to scrape along the tub or shower floor.
CAULK REMOVER
2 LOOSEN AND REMOVE THE REMAINING CAULK

Squirt caulk remover on all the remaining caulk and let it do the hard work.
Then scrape off all the old caulk with a razor scraper. Wipe with a rag.
(Photo 1). Then scrape off as much old speed the drying). Clean the surfaces one
caulk as possible. Next, apply caulk last time with mineral spirits. Let dry.
remover (3M, Goof Off, Goo Gone, DAP
and Motsenbocker all make caulk Mask the gap
remover products) to break the adhe- Some pros scoff at the idea of using
sive bond and make it easier to scrape masking tape. But they caulk every day
off (Photo 2). and can lay down a caulk bead with their
Once the old caulk is gone, remove eyes closed. For DIYers, we recommend
any loose grout between the walls and masking the gap. It takes a bit more time,
the tub or shower floor. Treat any mold but you’ll get much better results than
in the grout along the wall/tub gap caulking freehand. Start by finding the
with a mold-killing product (one largest gap between the tub/shower and
choice is ZEP Mold Stain & Mildew the walls. That gap dictates how far apart
Stain Remover; less than $10 a bottle you must space the two rows of tape.
at home centers). Scrub the grout and Then apply the masking tape (Photo 3). If
then rinse off the mold killer with you have a fiberglass or composite tub,
water and let it dry (use a hair dryer to you should fill it before you caulk.

3 MASK THE GAP
Mask the wall corner gaps first. Then apply tape to the walls above the tub
or shower floor. Finish by applying tape to the tub or shower floor.
PUSH GUN
AWAY FROM
STARTING
POINT
PUSH CAULK
AHEAD OF
NOZZLE TIP
4 CUT, PUSH AND APPLY

Cut the nozzle tip to match the gap width. Hold the gun at a 90-degree
angle to the gap and push a bead of caulk slightly ahead of the nozzle as you
push the gun forward and continue applying pressure. Apply only enough caulk
to fill the gap.
AVOID THESE CAULKING

MISTAKES The new Bladerunner X2 from Rockwell
Q Buying the wrong caulk. Always use kitchen and bath caulk in a tub or
shower. It contains mold and mildew inhibitors that are not present in other is the go-to cutting machine for hobbyists
types of caulk. and pros alike. At less than 15 pounds, it
Q Caulking on top of old caulk. New caulk doesn’t bond well to old caulk,
sets up in seconds and travels anywhere.
especially if the old caulk contains silicone. Just like with painting, better
surface prep provides better results. Versatile T-shank jigsaw blades cut
Q Not removing mold on grout near the caulk areas. Grout is porous, and
everything, even ceramic tile. Perfect
any mold present in the grout above the caulk line will eventually spread
down into the new caulk area and destroy the bond. for quick rip, scroll, crosscuts, and
Q Cutting the nozzle larger than the gap you’re filling. A larger opening
intricate miter cuts.
applies too much product, making it harder to tool and clean up.
RO CK Y O U R NE XT PRO J E CT AT
ROCKWELLTOOLS.COM
f ami lyh an d ym an.co m DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 73

5 TOOL WITH YOUR FINGER
Wet your finger with water and start at an outer corner.
Wipe your finger across the caulk to create a rounded bead
6 PEEL OFF THE TAPE
Lift a corner of the tape along the tub and pull it off at a
steep angle while the caulk is still wet. Then remove the tape
and remove excess caulk from the gap. along the wall. Remove the tape from the wall corners last.
Apply the caulk bead

There are two schools of thought when blunt 20-degree angle, instead of 45 That way, they can complete the
it comes to tip angle and whether to degrees. And they hold the gun at a entire bead in one pass. Plus, the gun
pull or push the caulk. Our experts pre- 90-degree angle to the gap while pushing pressure forces the caulk deeper into
fer cutting the caulk tube nozzle at a a small bead ahead of the tip (Photo 4). the gap for better holding power and
sealing.
If you cut the tip at a 45-degree
angle and pull the gun away from the
starting corner, your gun will always
run into the opposite corner, forcing
you to flip it 180 degrees and start the
Finding Studs Just Got A Lot Easier. bead again. That creates a blob where
the two beads meet, making tooling
more difficult. Plus, pulling the gun
tends to apply a surface bead that
doesn’t penetrate as far into the gap.
Whichever tip angle you choose,
always cut the tip with a sharp utility
knife rather than the cheesy guillotine
mechanism built into some caulk
guns. Remove any burrs with a utility
knife or sandpaper before caulking—
the burrs will create grooves in the
caulk lines.
Shape the bead

UÊHighest accuracy stud finder and remove the tape
U Easy to use You can find all kinds of caulk-shap-
ing tools at home centers. But if you
U Find studs quickly and easily
take our advice and tape off the wall,
you won’t need any shaping tools. Just
The Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 has innovative stud sensing use your index finger to tool the caulk
technology that instantly finds hidden studs. No sliding is required.
(Photo 5). After tooling, remove the
It senses the wall in thirteen locations simultaneously, then
immediately illuminates the LED lights in front of the stud. masking tape while the caulk is still
The ProSensor 710 is the fastest, least error prone, and most wet (Photo 6). Let the caulk cure for
accurate stud finder on the market. It’s the easy way to find studs. the recommended time before using
www.franklinsensors.com the tub or shower.
Meet the Beauty
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Discover this spectacular 6½-carat green
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F or almost a hundred years it lay dormant. Silently building strength. At

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ART DIRECTION VERN JOHNSON • PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA
Dealing with dead batteries

You probably keep jumper cables in surge large enough to fry expensive your own car simply by providing a
your vehicle so you can solicit a jump computers in either vehicle. And, since jump to someone else.
if your battery dies or offer a jump to a most of these components communi- Here’s the bottom line: Dealing with
fellow driver. But jumping batteries on cate on a shared data bus, surge dam- a dead battery in a modern vehicle
cars built after 2000 might not be so age to just one computer or digital requires new equipment and tech-
smart. That’s because newer vehicles device (even a radio) can disable the niques. We’ll get you up to speed on
contain as many as a dozen computers entire data bus, preventing the vehicle the latest jump-starting methods and
and even more digital devices. Jump- from starting and costing hundreds to show you what new equipment you
starting with cables connected to a diagnose and repair. Think about that: need to safely jump-start and replace
running vehicle can create a voltage You can cause expensive damage to an automotive battery.

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Avoiding voltage spikes
When you connect jumper cables from a POWER PACK VS. JUMPER PACK
running vehicle to a dead battery, the alter-
nator in the running vehicle instantly puts Emergency portable power packs and jumper packs look alike, but they’re
built with different batteries. A power pack battery is designed to provide low
out maximum charging voltage. That can
power for long periods, while a jumper pack battery is designed to provide
create a voltage spike of up to 15.5 volts in maximum power for short periods to start a deeply discharged vehicle
both vehicles. And it’s that voltage spike battery. A power pack can usually provide enough power to jump a slightly
discharged vehicle battery, but that can shorten the life of the unit.
that can fry computers and digital devices.
One way to eliminate the voltage spike is
to leave the engine off in the donor car.
That will prevent frying computers in the USES FOR AN
EMERGENCY
donor car. But if the car won’t start right up,
PORTABLE
don’t grind away to the point that you end POWER PACK
up with dead batteries in both cars! Q Power port
sockets for
Jump-starting with a jumper pack (also
recharging phones
called a booster pack or a juice pack) is a and tablets during a
better alternative. The battery inside the power failure.
Q Inflate a spare tire.
jumper pack provides the boost to the dead
Q Light up a work
battery at a safe voltage. When used prop- area.
erly, it’s the safest way to protect the elec- Q Jump a slightly
discharged vehicle
tronics in the dead vehicle while providing
battery.
enough boost to get the engine running.
To use a jumper pack, first turn off all
lights and electrical accessories in the dead
vehicle. Next, connect the cables the same as
you would ordinary jumper cables—positive
clamp to the positive battery post and nega-
tive clamp to a metallic engine component or
chassis grounding point. Then try starting
the vehicle. Follow the jumper pack’s instruc-
tions for maximum cranking times. If the
USES FOR A
jump works, you’re all set. If not, you tried JUMPER PACK
your best and didn’t damage any electronics. Q Jump-start a
dead battery.
Choosing a jumper pack
Big-box retailers and auto parts stores PEAK AMPS VS. CRANKING AMPS
sell jumper packs and emergency and Many manufacturers list a peak amp rating on their pack. But it’s not a
reliable indicator of battery power. Instead, check for the pack’s cranking
recreational portable power packs. Even
amps (CA) rating. To arrive at the CA rating, the battery is discharged
though both have battery cables and for 30 seconds. The number of amps the battery delivers during that
clamps, they’re two different animals. period while still maintaining at least 1.2 volts per cell is its CA rating.
The higher the CA, the better the battery.
Emergency and recreational portable
power packs are designed to provide low
power for long periods to get you through
a power failure or provide portable power
for picnics, camping or tailgating. They
may start a vehicle with a slightly dis- AC CORD
charged battery, but they may not pack

enough punch to jump-start a seriously
discharged battery or start a vehicle that’s
flooded. Packs meant for jumping, on the
other hand, have batteries that’ll deliver a AC WALL POWER PORT
TRANSFORMER ADAPTER
lot of power for short periods and are the
KEEPING IT CHARGED
ones to buy if emergency battery jumps If your jumper pack is equipped with an internal charging mechanism,
are your intended purpose. plug an AC extension cord into it and connect to any receptacle. The
Here’s how to choose a jumper pack. First, internal charger is the easiest to use but the most costly to repair if it
fails. If an external transformer ever fails or you misplace it, simply order
ignore the pack’s peak amp rating. Peak a new one from the manufacturer. Some units come with a power port
amps doesn’t indicate the pack’s ability to adapter used for emergency charging.

the Hearing
Newest Invention
digital hearing aid breaks price barrier in affordability
Reported by J. Page Affordable Digital Technology
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start a vehicle. Instead, look for the unit’s for long periods (usually 24 hours). The
cranking amps (CA) rating. You need a units come with a wall transformer or an
minimum of 225 CAs to start a four- or AC extension cord (as shown on p. 78)
six-cylinder engine. (One jumper pack that plugs into an internal transformer.
that meets these specs is the Clore Some packs also come with a power port
JNC300XL with 225 CA; $85 at sears.com). adapter cable for emergency charging.
If you have a larger engine or want more Since a port outputs almost 12 amps (12
power, find a pack with 400 or more CAs. times the recommended charging rate),
(Two choices at amazon.com are the Clore always follow the manufacturer’s
ES5000 with 400 CA, $130; and the instructions to avoid overheating the
Schumacher PSJ-3612 with 470 CA, $270.) internal battery. Finally, never connect a
jumper pack to the battery on a running
Keep the pack charged vehicle or to an automotive battery char-
Test your battery Jumper packs require regular recharging. ger. The high charging rate will destroy
You can’t charge a pack, throw it in your the jumper pack battery.
and charging system truck for six months and expect it to work Maintaining a jumper pack is a hassle.
You can check the condition of the battery,
when you need it. Recommendations vary, They’re not the perfect alternative to
starting and entire charging system with a
but count on recharging a jumper pack at jumper cables, just the safest. So it really
computerized battery tester. One choice is
least once every 30, 60 or 90 days. If you comes down to this: You can drag the
the SOLAR BA9; $77 at tooldiscounter.com.
Besides testing voltage, it tests internal
don’t keep the pack charged, its battery pack inside and charge it periodically, or
resistance and the condition of the starter will degrade to the point that it won’t you can take your chances with jumper
and alternator. This one works on conven- accept or hold a charge. Then you’ll have cables. If you forget to recharge your
tional SLI batteries, as well as gel and to buy a new battery, which costs almost jumper pack, you’re out about $125. If
absorbed glass mat (AGM), so you can as much as a pack. However, if you main- you fry an electronic component while
also use it on motorcycle and lawn and tain it properly, it’ll last for several years. using jumper cables, you’re looking at a
garden equipment. Jumper packs must be recharged at a minimum of $500 for a tow, diagnostic
very low rate (usually less than 1 amp) fee, labor and parts. The choice is yours.
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MAINTAIN COMPUTER MEMORY
WHEN CHANGING A BATTERY
Replacing a battery in an older vehicle is simple; remove the cables and hold down
and swap in the new battery. But if you’re changing a battery in a vehicle built after
2000, a jumper pack and power adapter cables are good tools to have on hand.
That’s because newer vehicles require backup power (a minimum of 12 volts) to
maintain the “learned” calibrations for the electronic throttle body, anti-pinch win-
dows, power sliding door, HVAC actuators, theft-deterrent radio and security
system. If you don’t provide backup power, the vehicle will “forget” the calibrations
when you disconnect the old battery. Then, when you connect the new battery, the
vehicle may not start or may run so poorly that it has to be towed to a shop. Some
vehicles require costly ($150 and up) dealership-only recalibration with a factory
scan tool. Others will run poorly until they eventually relearn.
You can avoid all those recalibration issues by providing backup power to the
vehicle while you change the battery. Use your jumper pack with a special cable
(SOLAR ESA30 OBD II Memory Saver Connector; $13 at tooltopia.com). Find the
OBD II diagnostic port on your vehicle (usually under the dash on the driver’s side)
and push the D-shape connector onto the port. Plug the other cable end into a
jumper pack or emergency and recreational portable power pack. Then remove the
battery cables (negative cable first) and insulate each one with electrical tape or
shove them into a nonconductive cover to prevent shorting.
CONNECT THE BACKUP POWER

Let the engine sit for at least 15 minutes to allow the computer modules to
power down. Then find the OBD II diagnostic port on your vehicle (usually under
the dash on the driver’s side) and push the D-shape connector onto the port.
Then plug the other cable end into a jumper pack or emergency and
recreational portable power pack.
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fami l yh an d ym an.co m DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 81

ART DIRECTION -!2#)!2/%0+%sPHOTOGRAPHY AND TECHNICAL ILLUSTRATION HSP
DIY Quiz
B Y T R AV I S L A R S O N editors@thefamilyhandyman.com
Put on your thinking cap and take

this month’s quiz to see just how
smart you are when it comes to DIY.
Here’s how it works:
Q There are easy, intermediate and really
tough questions all mixed together.
Q There may be more than one correct
answer!
DOUBLE-CYLINDER
Q Find the answers and get your DIY DEAD BOLT
rating on pp. 84 and 85.

Good luck!
1. Double-cylinder dead bolts can be dangerous because:

A. The internal tumblers are more easily picked.
B. They pose a safety hazard during home fires.
C. Users often forget to engage the second cylinder.
D. This is a bogus question. They’re not risky at all.
2. What’s the difference between Type M and Type L copper?

A. Type L copper has thicker walls.
B. Type M copper has thicker walls.
C. Type L copper is really a copper alloy combined with two
other metals to give it more strength and corrosion resistance.
SINGLE-CYLINDER
D. Type M copper is used strictly for high-pressure commercial DEAD BOLT
applications.
TYPE M
4. Which would cause a gas 6. True or False?

water heater to gurgle? Sandpaper grit numbers
TYPE L A. Sediment collecting at the refer to the number of
bottom. abrasive particles per
B. A missing or broken dip square centimeter on the
tube. sandpaper.
C. An airlock above the
water level.
D. Defective burners
producing inadequate
3. What could cause your brakes to squeak?
heat.
A. Warning rivets that indicate your pads need replacing.
B. Failure to apply copper grease to the back of the pads
5. True or False?
during installation.
Even if your car doesn’t
C. A warped rotor, which sets off a harmonic hum that
require premium gas
sounds like a squeak.
(90+/- octane), it’s a good
D. A pebble lodged between the caliper and the rotor.
idea to use it during cold
winter months for easier
starting.
7. Car manufacturers are C. It conducts less heat than 12. Wood is designated as 13. True or False? When
switching over to ceramic metal does, so it saves on either hardwood or softwood you’re drywalling a ceiling
brake pad materials because: energy costs. depending on: with 24-in. spacing on fram-
A. They last longer and enable D. It’s actually a poor choice A. Its rating on the Janka wood ing, you should always use
you to stop faster than other because in the event of a lint hardness scale. Above 1,000 5/8-in. drywall to prevent
pads. fire, it won’t contain the fire. it’s a hardwood; below 1,000 sagging.
B. They’re the quietest pad it’s a softwood.
available. 10. What does “UF” stand for B. Whether the tree bears 14. “Cross taping” is a way to:
C. They’re easier on your in reference to cable? cones. A. Check to make sure some-
rotors. A. Universal fixture C. The density of the wood thing is square.
D. They don’t generate as B. Underground feeder pulp. B. Secure a pickup load.
much brake dust, which C. Ultra Field D. The terms are arbitrary; C. Tape drywall to ensure a
wrecks the appearance of D. Universal feed neither has a definitive crack-free wall.
alloy wheels. meaning. D. Mask off a pattern on a
wall for decorative painting.
8. The No. 1 cause of furnace 11. What is this tool
trouble is: used for? 15. True or False? When
A. Igniter failure A. Attaching ends on determining desired swing
B. Blocked exhaust Ethernet cable directions on casement win-
C. Unpaid energy bill B. Crimping F-type dows, pretend your back is
D. Dirty air filter connectors onto against the hinge-side jamb. If
coaxial cable the window swings left, it’s a
9. Plastic dryer duct is a good C. Stripping com- left swing; right, it’s a right
choice because: munication cable swing.
A. It’s flexible and easy to run. D. Stripping coaxial
B. It’s translucent, so you can cable Find the DIY Quiz answers
see lint deposits. on pp. 84 and 85.

DIY Quiz Answers
1. (B) Because double-cylinder dead 6. False. The grit number refers to the 9. (D) Plastic dryer duct is a danger-
bolts require a key to unlock them from size of each granule. The bigger the grit ous substitute for solid, smooth-
the inside as well as the outside, they number, the smaller the granules. A walled metal pipes. Did you know
can keep you from getting out of the manufacturers’ association standardizes that about 3,000 home fires occur in
house during a fire. When you’re at the numbering system. If you’ll pardon the United States each year because
home, you should leave the key in the the pun, the grit number gives consum- of clothes dryers? These fires are
lock set or hang it on a nail near the lock. ers a “rough” idea of how aggressive the almost always caused by lint buildup
sandpaper is. at the bottom of the dryer near the
heat source. The fire starts there and
7. (B, C and D) Contrary to popular finds its way into dirty vent lines as
wisdom, brakes with ceramic pads don’t well. The plastic has no hope of con-
stop your car any faster or last any taining fire, and the corrugated sur-
longer. faces actually encourage lint buildup.
That said, cleaning lint from the
bottom of the dryer and the vent
8. (D) Dirty air filters can greatly pipes is even more important than
restrict the airflow in your furnace. avoiding plastic vent lines.
2. (A) Type L copper has thicker walls Poor airflow can cause the heat
for handling higher pressures. Type M exchanger to overheat and shut down
is typically used for residential the burners. It will automatically reset
plumbing. Type L is sometimes used a few times, but if the problem contin-
for acidic water, but PEX is now the ues, your furnace will shut down
best choice in that situation. completely.
3. (A, B and D) All three of these scenar-

ios can cause your brakes to squeal or
squeak. A warped rotor will feel like a
vibration or chatter when you apply the
brake pedal.
SEDIMENT
10. (B) Underground feeder wire has

4. (A) Minerals from water form a
extra plastic insulation molded
thick layer of sediment at the bottom
around the individual wires to provide
of the tank. When the sediment is
greater protection for buried cables.
heated from below, steam “burps” up
through the debris the same way it
rises through oatmeal cooking on the UF CABLE
stove.
5. False. Your car won’t start any easier, WHAT’S YOUR LEVEL
get any better mileage, get any more OF EXPERTISE?
power or anything else if you buy pre- Beginner: 0 – 5 correct
mium gasoline. However, if your particu- Intermediate: 6 – 12 correct
lar car requires it, you can damage the DIY Guru: 13 – 15 correct
engine by not using it.

11. (D) The
COAXIAL
coaxial stripper STRIPPER
peels back vari-
ous layers of
coaxial cable to
prepare it for
F-type connec-
tors. Fine
adjustments are
sometimes nec-
essary depend-
ing on the 14. (A) Cross-taping involves measuring opposing corners
brand of the of a square or rectangle. Identical measurements ensure a
coaxial cable. square structure.
12. (B) Softwoods are part of the coniferous, or cone-bearing,

group of trees, which include pine, fir and cedar. Hardwoods,
such as oak, maple and walnut, produce seeds with a covering
such as a fruit or nut. The terms “hardwood” and “softwood” LEFT-HAND RIGHT-HAND
don’t always describe a wood’s hardness. For example, Southern WINDOW WINDOW
yellow pine is a hard softwood, and balsa is a soft hardwood.
13. False (although it used to be true). New drywall products

like ToughRock, a 1/2-in.-thick drywall from Georgia-Pacific, are 15. False. While that’s what you do for ordering doors, it’s
rated to span 24-in. spaces without sagging. Why should you just the opposite with casement windows.
care? It’s a heckuvalot lighter, that’s why!
Murphy Bed Bookcase, continued from p. 25
Mackintosh Table,
continued from p. 33
Cutting List
KEY QTY. DIMENSIONS NAME
Figure E 3/4" OAK PLYWOOD
A 2 28-3/4" x 76-1/2" Bed face panels
Top detail B 2 15-1/2" x 82-1/8" Bed cabinet verticals
C 1 15-3/8" x 58-3/8" Bed headboard
1-1/4" D 1 15-9/16" x 58-1/2" Bed cabinet top
5/16" E 1 14-3/4" x 58-3/8" Bed header panel
F 4 11-1/2" x 72-3/8" Bookcase verticals
G 1 7-5/8" x 56" Head rail
H 1 2-3/4" x 56" Foot rail
20-DEGREE BEVEL J 2 5-1/8" x 75-1/4" Side rails
K 2 5-3/4" x 59-3/8" Bed fascia box front/back
L 2 5-3/4" x 14-1/2" Bed fascia box sides
M 2 11-9/16" x 19-5/16" Bookcase top
Figure F N 4 11-1/2" x 18-1/2" Bookcase top/bottom shelves
P 2 11-1/4" x 18-1/2" Bookcase middle shelves
Apron detail Q 2 11-1/4" x 13-1/2" Pullouts
R 4 10-1/2" x 18-1/4" Adjustable shelves
S 4 4-3/4" x 19-3/4" Bookcase fascia box front/back
T 4 4-3/4" x 10-1/2" Bookcase fascia box sides
U 2 15-3/8" x 16-1/4" Doors
1/2" BIRCH PLYWOOD OR MDF

V 1 16" x 59-3/8" Bed fascia trim boards
W 2 12" x 19-3/4" Bookcase fascia trim boards
1-3/8"
1/4" OAK PLYWOOD
1/4" X 2 28" x 75" Mattress supports
3-3/8" RADIUS Y 2 19-1/4" x 19-3/8" Bookcase back
3/4" OAK
Z 1 5-3/4" x 60" Bookcase base
AA 1 2-3/8" x 80" Bed base
BB 2 2-3/4" x 58-3/8" Bed header front/back
Statement of ownership, CC 1 2-3/4" x 182" Top trim
DD 4 2" x 72-3/8" Face frame stiles
management, and circulation EE 4 2" x 16" Face frame rails
Statement required by the Act of August 12, 1970, Section 3685,
FF 2 3/4" x 16" Middle shelf edges
Title 39, United States Code, showing the ownership, management GG 2 1-3/4" x 15-7/8" Pullout fronts
and circulation of THE FAMILY HANDYMAN (USPS 515-930) pub- HH 4 1-1/2" x 11" Pullout sides
lished monthly (except bimonthly in December/January and July/
JJ 4 1-1/4" x 18-3/8" Adjustable shelf trim
August) 10 times a year, at 1610 N. 2nd St., Suite 102, Milwaukee, WI
53212-3906, as filed on Sept. 30, 2014. Annual subscription price: KK 2 1-1/2" x 5-1/8" Side rail end trim
$24. LL 2 3/4" x 76-1/2" Side rail edges
The names and addresses of the publisher, editor and managing MM 2 3/4" x 82-1/8" Bed cabinet edges
editor are: Publisher, Russell S. Ellis, 750 Third Ave., New York,
NN 1 3/4" x 54-1/4" Leg support rail
New York County, NY 10017; Editor, Ken Collier, 2915 Commers
Drive, Suite 700, Eagan, Dakota County, MN 55121; Managing PP 1 1/2" x 168" Fascia trim
Editor, Travis Larson, 2915 Commers Drive, Suite 700, Eagan,
Dakota County, MN 55121. 1/4" OAK
The owner is Home Service Publications, Inc., 750 Third Ave., QQ 1 5-3/4" x 59-7/8" Bed fascia front
New York, NY 10017.
RR 2 5-3/4" x 16-1/4" Bed fascia sides
Known bond holder: WRC Media, 750 Third Ave., New York, NY
10017. SS 2 4-3/4" x 20" Bookcase fascia fronts
The Family Handyman TT 2 4-3/4" x 12-1/4" Bookcase fascia sides
Issue date for circulation data: October 2014 UU 3 4-3/4" x 19-1/4" Bed panel drawer fronts
Average number of copies of each issue during preceding 12 VV 4 4" x 22-15/16" Bed panel bottom rails
months, and of the single issue published nearest to filing date, WW 4 3" x 40" Bed panel upper stiles
respectively, is as follows:
XX 4 3" x 30" Bed panel lower stiles
Average Single Issue
Total number of copies printed
YY 4 2-1/2" x 22-15/16" Bed panel upper rails
(net press run) 1,183,113 1,185,178 ZZ 2 2" x 33-1/4" Bed panel upper mullions
Mail subscriptions 1,004,596 998,219 AAA 2 2" x 23-1/2" Bed panel lower mullions
Paid distribution—sales through
BBB 2 3/4" x 58" Bed panel horizontal dividers
dealers and carriers, street vendors
and counter sales 58,522 63,737 CCC 4 2" x 16-1/2" Door panel stiles
Total paid distribution DDD 2 2-1/2" x 12" Door panel bottom rails
1,063,118 1,061,956 EEE 2 2" x 12" Door panel top rails
Free or nominal-rate distribution
24,068 24,136
FFF 1 3/4" x 600" Edging
Total distribution
1,087,186 1,086,092 3/4" POPLAR
Copies not distributed
GGG 10 1-1/2" x 54-1/2" Bed frame struts
95,927 99,086
Total HHH 2 1-1/2" x 75" Bed frame sides
1,183,113 1,185,178 JJJ 2 1-1/2" x 14-3/4" Bed header mounting cleats
Percent paid and/or requested KKK 4 1-1/2" x 11-1/2" Bottom shelf cleats
circulation 98% 98%
I certify that the statements made by me above are correct and
LLL 4 1-1/4" x 11-1/4" Middle shelf cleats
complete. MMM 2 1" x 17" Top shelf front cleats
Jim Woods, Vice President, Planning, Consumer Marketing NNN 4 1" x 11-1/2" Top shelf side cleats
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EDITORIAL Tips of the Month
Editor in Chief Ken Collier
Senior Editors Travis Larson, Gary Wentz
Associate Editor Jeff Gorton
Senior Copy Editor Donna Bierbach
Contributing Copy Editor Peggy Parker SLASH YOUR HEATING COSTS WITH INFRARED ZONE HEATING!
Art Directors Vern Johnson, Marcia Roepke
Contributing Art Director Ellen Thomson Are you seeking ways to lower your winter heating bill? If you’ve insulated, caulked, sealed
Production Artist Mary Schwender
Photographer Tom Fenenga and performed other energy-efficient upgrades and your heating costs are still more than
Contributing Editors Elisa Bernick, Spike Carlsen,
Rick Muscoplat, Mark Petersen,
you can bare and, worse, you’re still chilly, you may want to consider investing in a portable
David Radtke heater. A portable heater is not a replacement for a whole-home heating system. It is
Office Administrative Manager Alice Garrett
designed to heat certain areas (zones) of your home without the need to fire up your whole
VP, Digital Experience Jennifer Smith
Senior Manager, Digital Reese Gurnett
house heating system. When it comes to heating costs and comfort, remember the 80/20
Digital Content Producer
Senior Web Analyst
Karisa Langlo
Ashley Keefe
rule. Most people spend 80% of their time in only 20% of their home. Why pay to heat
Digital Business Analyst Allison Reeves your entire home if you’re only occupying part of it?
Technology Director Rob Awe
EDITORIAL OFFICE
Keep in mind that not all portable heaters are created equal. The old standby has been
The Family Handyman, 2915 Commers Drive, Suite 700
Eagan, MN 55121; 651-454-9200
a cheap, inefficient and potentially dangerous electric-resistance coil heater. Thanks to
advances in portable heating systems, today you can get the best bang for your portable
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Midwest, 312-540-4824 Matt Avery, Marissa Wenk per hour. The difference is the transfer of heat. The infrared warmth is absorbed by your
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416-598-0101, ext. 280 Cheryl Fryer less energy because of the process of transferring infrared heat.
Classified and Small Display Eric Genova
Ads: 212-779-7172, ext. 221 A leading infrared portable zone heater manufacturer, SUNHEAT International, uses 24
Marketing Director Christina Masterson
Digital Marketing Manager Ashley Martinez
ounces of copper and six commercial-grade quartz tubes to compose the heat chamber
Digital Publisher Allie Beaty of it’s newest, fully American-made model, the new Original SUNHEAT USA 1500. These
Relationship Manager
Associate Marketing Manager Amanda Gottlieb core elements, combined with a high velocity fan and washable filter, produce a heat
Art Director
Advertising Coordinator
Ed Jackson
Barbara Berezowski
output equaling your room temperature plus 120˚F. This highly efficient output allows
Production Manager Amy Tuller the infrared heat to be absorbed by the moisture in the air as it’s pulled through the
VP, Circulation Marketing Dave Fiegel heat chamber. The heated air then flows out of the heater and transfers soft infrared
T H E R E A D E R ’ S D I G E S T A S S O C I AT I O N , I N C .
warmth to the people and objects in the room, heating up to 1,000 square feet.
President and
Chief Executive Officer
Bonnie Kintzer Consequently, you will be able to turn down the furnace that’s working unnecessarily
VP, Chief Operating Officer Howard Halligan to heat the rest of your home, which will slash heating costs. The U.S Energy Information
VP, Chief Sales Officer Mark Josephson
President and Publisher, Books Harold Clarke Administration (EIA) estimates that for every degree you
VP, North American Operations Philippe Cloutier
VP, Chief Marketing Officer Leslie Doty
lower the temperature setting on the furnace you will
VP, North American
Human Resources
Phyllis E. Gebhardt, SPHR save 3% to 5% off your heating costs.
VP, Consumer Marketing Planning Jim Woods
The new Original SUNHEAT USA 1500 is safe for use
P U B L I S H E D B Y H O M E S E R V I C E P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C . ,
a s u b s i d i a r y o f T H E R E A D E R ’ S D I G E S T A S S O C I AT I O N , I N C .
around children and pets without the fear of being burned
and comes with an elegantly finished oak cabinet on
The Family Handyman® (ISSN: 0014-7230) (USPS: 515-930).
Volume 65, No. 1, 554th Edition. Published monthly (except bi- durable casters for easy movement.
monthly in July/August, December/January) by Home Service
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Visit their website at OnTheHouse.com for recaps of the show & other helpful info.
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DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 95
®
Great GOOFS
FROM OUR READERS greatgoofs@thefamilyhandyman.com
PAINT
ME BLUE
I got up early one Saturday last summer
to paint the large gable end of the
house before the afternoon heat.
Below the gable were a group of var-
iegated aucuba bushes (my wife’s
favorites), so to protect the leaves
from paint drips, I draped them with a
plastic drop cloth. I climbed the ladder
and started painting. After five hours I
was finished, and so were the plants! I pulled
the plastic away from the bushes, and yikes,
they looked like they had been hit by a flame-
thrower. The plastic had created a solar tent,
overheating and killing the bushes. Several hun-
dred dollars later, the new bushes are doing fine!
Dwight H. Covington
Our iPad edition has

twice as many
Great Goofs! It’s
available in the
App Store.
EDITOR DAVID RADTKE • ART DIRECTION MARY SCHWENDER • ILLUSTRATIONS STEVE BJÖRKMAN
Screen repair again….
Recently I was working in my garage making some molding for my screen windows. A horse of
The garage just happens to be where I store my screens in the winter—right behind
my table saw. As I was ripping some strips of wood, a small piece jammed and the
a different color….
Last summer, after much debate about
saw kicked it back fast and furious. Luckily I was out of harm’s way, but my stack of
color selection, we were finally ready to
screen windows wasn’t so lucky. The chunk of wood made it through six screens
paint our kitchen cabinets. I removed all
before coming to a stop. Now I really have a repair project!
the doors and hardware, and since it was
Joe Magee
a nice day, I decided to paint the doors
and drawer fronts out by the driveway
while my wife worked on the cabinet
frames inside. After a couple of hours, my
wife came to check the progress. “That’s
not the right color!” she
shrieked. I had mistakenly
grabbed one of the quarts we had
rejected from our testing and was nearly
halfway through painting
the doors. “Well, it’s only
paint,” I told her as she
handed me the right color.
Sheepishly I finished up the
next day—after double-
checking with her first! Dan Doshan
Got your own do-it-yourself mistake? GET $100 FOR YOUR GREAT GOOF! See p. 4 for details.
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What projects are featured in the magazine?

What projects are featured in the magazine?

What tips are provided for painting a house?

What tips are provided for painting a house?

10 TIPS FOR PICKING PAINT COLORS

Turn any room

The best way to

2015 RANGER® 570 2015 RANGER® 570

BUILD YOUR PERFECT RANGER ® AT POLARIS.COM

47 Handy Hints® 82 DIY Quiz

54 Pro Tips 96 Great Goofs®

71 Home Care + Repair

4 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 fam ilyh an d ym an.co m

ART DIRECTION VERN JOHNSON • PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA

6 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 fam ilyh an d ym an.co m

Nifty blade height

8 DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 fam ilyh an d ym an.co m

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W hen William Lawrence Murphy

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f a m ily h a n d y m a n . c o m DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 15

A Murphy bed can

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With a helper, carefully turn over the bed

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SCREW THE CABINET TO THE WALL.

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f a m ily h a n d y m a n . c o m DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015 27

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CREATE ARCHES GLUE THE BASE CUT SLOTS IN STRETCHERS

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