Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes Vol. 2

Landscapes Portraits Black and white Macro
Photography
Volume 2
Master
manual
settings
Unlock the potential of your photographs
Creative
photography
projects
A
S
P
IDE
GU
Shoot a range
of subjects
Over
650
essential
hints & tips
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Welcome to
If you want to develop your photography skills then Photography Tips, Tricks &
Fixes will give you all of the essential and practical advice youll need to master
the art of photography. Alongside our 50 photography tips and tricks feature, our
in-depth Tips section explores nine of the most popular photographic genres,
including portrait, landscape, black and white and tips for lighting your subjects.
Each genre has advice on the best kit, subjects, settings and composition as well
as simple step-by-step tutorials so that you can capture the best photos of each
subject every time. Once youve mastered the basics, the Tricks section invites
you to take your photographs to the next level with several creative projects. From
creating a levitation effect to shooting zoom bursts and setting up your own home
studio, there is an array of fun shooting techniques for everyone. As hard as we
try to take perfect photos in-camera, sometimes the end results dont match our
expectations. Our Fixes tutorials show you how to use image-editing software to
improve and enhance your photos. Follow the step-by-step tutorials to recompose
photos, improve close-ups, brighten dull skies and much more. There is even a
feature on rescuing old photos. Weve also got a free CD at the back of the book
SDFNHGZLWKOHVDQGUHVRXUFHVWRKHOS\RXFRPSOHWHWKHSURMHFWVDORQJZLWKYLGHR
tutorials so that you can further your image-editing skills. Photography Tips, Tricks
& Fixes will ensure that you are shooting and editing like a pro in no time.
GUI
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DE
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Disclaimer
The publisher cannot accept responsibility for any unsolicited material lost or damaged in the
post. All text and layout is the copyright of Imagine Publishing Ltd. Nothing in this bookazine may
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Photoshop is either a registered trademark or trademark of Adobe Systems Incorporated
in the United States and/or other countries and is used with express permission.
Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes 2014 Imagine Publishing Ltd
ISBN 978-1909758636
Part of the
bookazine series
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Contents
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82
08
50 photography
tips & tricks
Tips
22
28
34
40
46
52
60
66
72
Capture stunning landscapes
Creative
photography
projects
Shoot beautiful portraits

Master macro photography
Capture perfect still life shots
Shoot action photography
Master wildlife photography
Get creative shooting water
Take beautiful black & white photos
Discover essential lighting tips
Master macro
photography
Tricks
90 Create a lens flare

92 Capture shallow depth of field
96 Make buildings stand out
98 Create a vintage-effect photo
102 Build a photo collage panograph
106 Create dramatic portraits
108 Shoot silhouettes
110 Create a levitation effect
114 Shoot a zoom burst
116 Shoot dramatic smoke trails
120 Create photos with light painting
122 Shoot a time-lapse journal
126 Get creative with miniature still life
128 Capture a vertical panorama
Discover creative
photography
projects
6 Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes
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138
The essential
guide to editing
Fixes
146 Recompose problem photos

in easy steps
150 Simple ways to edit your

portrait photos
154 Fix animal compositions

156 Retouch your underwater photos
158 Fixes to improve close-ups
162 Use levels to improve photos
165 Brighten shadows
166 Reduce noise
167 Brighten up dull skies
168 Enhance sunset skies
170 Improve your landscape photos
174 Correct distracting lens distortion
176 Sharpen up any photo
180 Speed up your editing workflow
184 Master RAW conversion
186 Rescue your
Recompose your
problem photos
in easy steps
old photos
132 Create a
home studio
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Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes 7
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|
| Fixestips & tricks
50 photography
50 photography
tips & tricks
Discover essential tips that will enhance your work whether you shoot
landscapes, portraits, wildlife, commercial or mono
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| tips &|tricks
50 photography
nside this feature you will find the key to best practise in five genres of
photography: landscapes, portraits, wildlife, commercial and monochrome.
Discover 50 essential photography tips that you need to know before you can
shoot great photographs, from bringing out confidence in models and training
your vision of light to researching and planning the perfect wildlife shoot, and
pitching your photography ideas to ad agencies. Taking on board some or all of
these tips and techniques will help to develop your skills.
This is a collection of some really useful tips, dos and donts, observations,
attitude advice and handy habits to adopt when taking your own photographs,
that will put you on a fast track to becoming a successful photographer,
regardless of your genre.
1: Understand the
light
2: Face the
elements
Look at the way the light

works in conjunction with
the elements in your picture,
then wait until the clouds
move into the right place
to bring out the elements
in your landscape that you
want. The same goes for
moonlight and starlight.
Go outside and see what

happens in a rainstorm
with a long exposure, or
using flash. But keep your
camera protected. Shortly
after the rain has finished
youll get some great light
and youll have two shots
for the price of one.
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50 photography tips & tricks
3: Shoot against simple backgrounds
Try to use white or grey backgrounds in the studio. A charismatic

subject is not going to get any more interesting by having a palm tree
in the background.
A-list
portraiture
advice
4: Keep it quiet
Make sure that you

dont have anyone
else interfering while
youre taking pictures.
If celebrities have their
managers or PR staff
with them, ask them to
be quiet so they dont
distract the subject.
5: Be friendly
Dont be too dominant,

as its better to let
people settle in and
relax in their own way.
This way you bring out
the best in them by
letting them come to
you. People will relax
its just a matter of time.
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6: Tune in
Find out what

type of music your
subject likes and
have it playing in the
background when they
arrive. If people feel at
home and relaxed then
thats half the problem
taken care of.
7: Read body
language
Visually assess people

as they arrive study
their movements. Youll
soon tell if someone
has low self-esteem, so
you can build them up
discreetly to make them
more confident.
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All images Terry ONeill
8: Maintain
positivity
Never tell a woman she

is beautiful because no
matter how beautiful
she is, shell never
believe it. Be more
subtle tell them thats
great and this works
really well as you go.
9: Do your
homework
Make sure that you

always read up about
the person you are
photographing so
you have something
to talk about when
they arrive that will
put them at ease.
10: Get the

right gear
Its important to buy

a good camera and
spend as much as
you can on it, even
if its secondhand,
because the better
the camera, the less
problems youll have.
11: Know when

to stop
As soon as you
feel youve got the
images that you
need, end the shoot
then, because theres
nothing worse for the
subject than a shoot
that just drags on.
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12: Use just

one light
There is no point taking

pictures in bad light. A
great setup is one light
set above the subjects
head angled down so
it throws interesting
shadows underneath
the chin.
Beauty
and style
Clockwise
from above:
Brigitte Bardot (1971),
Mick Jagger (1964),
The Rolling Stones
(1964), Audrey
Hepburn (1966),
David Bowie (1974)
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13
Evocative
landscape
techniques
13: Be original
People go to the same places as Joe Cornish and get

disappointed that they cant get the same pictures as
him. You can never be Joe Cornish, so youre far better
off trying to capture your own experience of the place.
14: Manage your time
Dont drive a hundred miles only to find that the tide

isnt right tide tables can be checked in advance
of a shoot. You might need an hour before your ideal
tide level to set up and find the best spot.
15: Work on your own
Go to places on your own and get in touch with your

own feelings, ability and workflow. If you always go
with others you wont find out what works best for you.
16: Learn from others
Find another visual artist who is willing to share their

experiments that didnt work it shows the thought
process that goes into it and can be quite revealing.
17: Be flexible
You can research all the elements of a place and plan

your shoot meticulously, only to find that when you
arrive, there is scaffolding in front of your view. Be
ready to do something different with what youve got.
18: If you cant buy it, make it
You can make homemade filters out of stockings, tea

bags, bubble wrap. It doesnt even matter if a piece
of equipment is broken if youve dropped your lens
and the front element has moved, see if you can get
some nice, unexpected effects.
19: Dont be a one-lens Photographer
20: Develop your own style
Whether you do long exposures, HDR or exposuremerging in Photoshop, experiment until you find
something that really excites you. Then start applying
it to a lot of things so you develop a style, because
your individual style is what sets you apart.
All images Paul Sanders
Occasionally leave your favourite lens at home and

take one with you that you rarely use. This will force
you to think about the way you approach photography.
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Serene scenery
Clockwise from left:

Chillenden, Kent, southeast England; Borth Y Gest,
Gwynedd, north-west Wales;
Staffhurst, south-east England
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22: Experiment with long exposures
Either get out very early before the Sun rises, or invest
in an ND (neutral density) filter and use the long shutter
speeds the camera requires to correctly expose the
image to create great misty effects on water.
21: Rise early
All images Jonathan Chritchley
For monochrome shots dawn can be a far

better time to work than sunset. The light
is often softer and the colours are more
muted, which works better in black and
white and there are less people around.
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13
Ethereal
monochrome
tricks
23: Shoot water
Lakes, sea, streams and rivers water makes such

a great subject matter to shoot in black and white.
Fantastic, luminescent foreground, great texture and
tone and theres so much of it around.
24: Adjust your screen
Set your camera screen to monochrome. You can still

work in RAW format and your files will be in colour,
but the screen will display in black and white. It gives
a good idea of which colours become which tones.
25: Avoid bright days
Black-and-white photos taken on bright days tend

to lack atmosphere and be too contrasting. A great
black-and-white day is when the sky is grey and
menacing! Stormy skies can look fantastic, especially
once you add a little contrast in post-production work.
26: Attempt intimate landscapes
Detailed, macro-style images can work beautifully

well in monochrome. Potter around old harbours
and shoot lobster pots, nets, rusty chains and bits of
boats. Crop tight, and think about the texture.
27: Know your kit bag
Ensure that you know where everything is in your

camera bag. You dont want to be hunting around for
equipment while the light is going or tide is coming in!
28: Create prints
Dont leave all your lovely photographs on your

hard drive print them, or make up a book of your
favourites its more rewarding to see them this way.
29: Dont over-process
Photoshop is not for fixing, its for enhancing. Spend

about five minutes processing each photograph any
more and its not the right one. A little contrast with
Curves, some Dodging and Burning where necessary.
Be water, my friend
Clockwise: Pier Study 2, Capbreton,

south-west France; Fishing Boat,
Dungeness, England; Selfoss, north
Iceland; Storm, Dyrholaey, Iceland;
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30: Simplify the shot
Sometimes a very beautiful scene can look amazing

to the eye, but be too cluttered and confusing in a
photograph, especially in black and white.
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Expert
wildlife
tips
31: Know your

animal
Research the animals

behaviour before you set
off so that you know how to
interact. If your subject is a
grizzly bear and you want it
to relax, you need to make
a bit of noise. A zebra, on
the other hand, will be
frightened if youre noisy.
32: Include the

landscape
An animal is part of a
landscape. Theres always
a temptation to use the
most powerful telephoto
lens to get a good closeup, but with a wide-angle
lens you can get a real
sense of the surroundings
that the animals are in.
33: Dont boast
On safari trips there will

always be someone
boasting that they saw
the best animals and
got the best shots, but
wildlife photography is a
game of chance. Accept
it and dont boast too
much you could make
life difficult for others.
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34: Put on the

lens hood
When shooting wildlife

you should always keep
the lens hood on; if you
are following an animal
thats moving, it might
run into the Sun and the
flare can catch the edge
of the lens, ruining an
otherwise great image.
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Force of nature
35: Behave
Remember you are an

intruder in the animals
territory. Its like walking
into their house if
you behave well they
will relax, but if you
do something that will
stress or upset them,
they will either run
away or attack you.
36: Start
with the
surroundings
When you arrive at

your destination, put
down your camera for
a day. This may seem
odd, but it gives you a
sense of the animals
surroundings and the
environment in general.
37: Know the

best spot
One of the easiest

ways to get pictures
of animals in Africa
is to go to the water
hole the animals
will have to drink
eventually, so as long
as you have patience
they will appear.
38: Dont chimp
Dont spend too

long looking at your
LCD screen between
shots you could
be missing great
opportunities. This is
particularly true with
wildlife photography
where you can miss a
chance in a second.
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39: Plan
properly
40: Move closer
Research your
subject if you want to
photograph the great
migration of a million
wildebeests crossing
the Mara River in
Kenya, thats seasonal,
so you need to turn up
at the right time.
As long as its safe, the

best zoom lens is your
own pair of legs, so
get as close to your
subject as you can. Try
to avoid using zoom
lenses because you
just cant be bothered
to walk, its not a good
enough reason.
All images Steve Bloom
Wildebeest and zebra

crossing the Mara
River during the great
migration, Masai Mara
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Essential
advertising
photography
advice
Its key that you play with strobe lights to create
your own look. Turn on your first strobe light in your
studio, and light your subject. Once you have found
your angle, direction and intensity, turn on a second
strobe light and start playing with it. You could use the
second strobe to fill in the background behind your
subject, or use the light to create a separation light
between the subject and the same background.
42: Develop your skills
The main difference between you and the established

advertising photographers is time, so keep shooting
and practising your craft and youll get better. Youll
continue to learn and grow, so dont give up if its
something that you are passionate about.
All images Riccardo Suriano
41: Play with lights
43: Accept rejection
Never be afraid of rejection. Remember the rule: It

takes ten Nos to get one Yes. If you never try,
you will never get accepted. Take on board any
constructive criticism and feedback so that you can
work towards the Yes.
44: Speak up
Pitch in and take initiative when working with an art

director or an ad agency. You might risk stepping on
someone elses idea, but remember you have been
chosen for the shoot because of your style and ideas.
45: Always be ready
Be ready to travel at any time, any day. Youd be

amazed how many times you could lose a vital job
only for not being able to answer your phone.
46: Dont fail to plan
Before every shoot, try to make a storyboard,

lighting diagram and, if possible, visit the set
location so you know where everything is
placed. But have a backup plan too; if youre
relying on window light to fill your background,
bring two or three extra strobes just incase.
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47: Leave an impression
Always carry more than one portfolio with

you when you go to interviews. If youre
lucky, the agents you show it to will want
to keep one to review it further.
48: See the light
Train your vision by taking a walk around

town, pay attention to the difference in lighting
that you get in the same exact spot just by
looking at it from different angles. Also notice
the difference in intensity depending on the
weather and time of day.
49: Master Photoshop
Advertising photographers need to be able

to mix graphics and photography, so its very
important that you spend countless hours
messing with Photoshop and learning all of
its tricks.
50: Find a niche
Choose your niche (watches, jewellery,

shoes), master it and you will see that
with time your work will be noticed by
agencies and companies that are looking
to hire someone in your particular field.
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Tips
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22
28
34
40
46
52
60
66
72
Capture stunning landscapes

Shoot beautiful portraits
Master macro photography
Capture perfect still life shots
Develop your camera skills and explore

new genres with these top tips
Landscapes
Discover how to capture

stunning scenery in
the world around you
Shoot action photography

Master wildlife photography
Get creative shooting water
Take beautiful black & white photos
Discover essential lighting tips
Create striking
images across a
range of genres
with these essential
step-by-steps
52
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TOP TIPS
Stunning vistas
Perfect portraits
Master
monochrome
Lighting tips
Macro
Learn how to take
perfect close-up photos

of any subject
34
66
22
40
Seascapes
Find out how to
60
capture creative
shots of water
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Tips | Tricks | Fixes
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Capture
stunning
landscapes
Learn these easy tips and tricks for capturing beautiful vistas
ts possible to get great landscape photos

on any camera, whether you have a DSLR,
a compact or a cameraphone. The genre
is a brilliant one in which to practise your skills,
as landscapes are stationary. You can take
all the time you need to get your settings and
composition right, and experiment with more
creative techniques and filters. Then, when you
have your perfect shot, you can go back to the
Gear guide
same spot when the light or weather changes

and get an entirely new image. Stunning
landscapes can be found anywhere, from the
coast to the city, and you dont have to wait
for clear sunny days as even cloudy or stormy
skies can look great in your captures.
Well show you the kit and settings youll
need for great landscapes, and how to master
compositional rules to create works of art.
Essential kit for landscape photography
Backpack
Carry your essential
kit with you to your
landscape location.
Tripod
Prevent wonky horizons
and avoid blurry shots at
slow shutter speeds.
Wide-angle lens
Capture the entire scene
without missing out
important details.
ND filter
Block some of the light
so you can shoot at long
exposures.
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Look for colour

Seek out vibrant colours
to create a strong image
that pops out. The colour
of the sky and flowers
really help this image.
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Settings
Discover how to take perfect scenic shots
andscapes are so popular that many cameras now

come with a dedicated Landscape scene mode.
This will automatically select the correct setting
for taking fantastic photos of beautiful views. However,
you may wish to take more control over your cameras
settings to achieve certain techniques. For example, many
photographers use a slow shutter speed when they want
to capture the movement of water. You may also wish to
use an art filter, if your camera has them. Vivid mode is
great for landscapes as it makes the colours appear more
vibrant, even if youre shooting on a cloudy day.
Capture a scene with a high

dynamic range
High dynamic range (HDR) photography enables
you to take an image that captures more detail
in the shadows and highlights. This technique
involves shooting a series of photos of the
same scene with different exposures. You then
layer them on top of each other to produce a
well-exposed photo that has a deeper range of
colours. You can achieve this with any camera
that has manual controls, but it helps if you have
an exposure bracketing function which, when
turned on, will automatically take three shots for
you at different exposures. Some cameras even
have an automatic HDR mode that will do all of
the work for you.
1: Use a tripod
Youll need to frame each of

your shots in the same way so
they look right when you layer
them. Use a tripod to avoid
camera movement.
2: Narrow aperture
Set your camera to Aperture

Priority mode and choose
a narrow aperture (high
f-number). This will keep the
entire scene in focus.
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3: Bracket exposure
You can do it manually, but

if you have an exposure
bracketing mode, use it to take
over-, under-, and well-exposed
shots at the same time.
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Adjust your settings
Pick a narrow aperture
To keep the entire scene in focus, use a narrow

aperture (f8 or higher) for your shot.
Info . . .
Shutter speed:
1/125 seconds
Aperture:
F16
Slow down your shutter

If you using a slow shutter speed for your landscapes, you will need to use
a tripod to keep the camera steady and ensure you dont get blurry images
To let plenty of natural light into your lens and

capture some motion, use a slow shutter
speed setting.
4: Layer your shots
You can now layer the shots

using software. Photomatix
is a free program for creating
HDR images, or you could use
Photomerge in Photoshop.
Before
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Try a scene mode
If you dont want to do it manually, Landscape

scene mode selects the correct setting for you.
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Composition
Follow compositional rules for engaging landscapes
hen looking at a photo of a vast and spacious landscape,

it can be easy to get lost in the scene and possibly lose
interest altogether. This is why it is important to consider
the composition of your shot to help grab the viewers attention. There
are several handy compositional rules to learn, and once you get
to grips with them, you wont be able to stop looking for foreground
interest and lead-in lines when youre out and about. It is easy to
produce a well-composed landscape image, and its often a case of
experimenting with shooting from different viewpoints and angles.
Depth
Lead-in Lines
Find some interest in the

middle section of your
landscape to give it even
more depth.
Use either natural or manmade lines to lead the

viewer through the shot.
Explore near or far to find different

landscapes to photograph
Landscapes are among the most accessible things to shoot there
is always a great view to be found, wherever you are in the world.
You can go out in your local area to look for a stunning scene, or
travel further afield in search of a completely different vista. You might
stumble on a great location while out and about, so its a good idea
to always have a camera with you, or you could research interesting
landscapes and carefully plan your shoot. Here are some of the most
popular types of landscape
There is always a great view

to be found, wherever you are
in the world
1: The seaside
Visit the coast for beautiful

seascapes. You could try a slow
shutter speed to capture the
smooth movement of the water.
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2: The city
Take striking cityscapes. Find an

unobstructed vantage point so
you can capture the scene without
people walking into view.
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Background
Consider your background;
make sure it doesnt distract
from your focal area.
Look for a focal point
When setting up, look for a main focal point such as a tree or rock to give the image a clear focus.
Info . . .
Shutter speed:
20 seconds
Aperture:
F20
3: The countryside
The patchwork fields and rolling hills

of the countryside look fantastic in
photos. Old farm buildings make
great focal points in the foreground.
Use the rule of thirds
Place your focal point and horizon off-centre in the

frame. Use your cameras gridlines to help you.
4: Public parks
An easy way to guarantee finding a

brilliant landscape is to visit a public
park or nature reserve. Arrive early
to avoid people in your shots.
5: The woods
Straighten horizons
A wonky horizon will ruin your shot. Use a tripod

or your cameras gridlines to get it straight.
There are some fantastic shots to

be taken in the woods. Tall trees
may block out some of the light, so
raise your ISO to avoid dark shots.
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6: Towns and villages
Your hometown can present some

excellent opportunities. Try using
streets, paths or rivers as lead-in
lines to guide through the scene.
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Shoot
beautiful
portraits
Follow our key advice for taking your best-ever people photos
Find the optimum setting Adjust the mode
Use Aperture Priority
Select a scene mode
Use burst mode
Use selective focus
Set a low f-number in Aperture

Priority mode. This creates a
nice blurry background so your
subject stands out in the frame.
To capture everyone with their

eyes open, use continuous or
burst mode for a series of shots,
or use blink-detection mode.
If youre struggling, Portrait mode

can pick the best settings for you,
so you can focus on the lighting and
composition of your shot.
Make sure their eyes are sharp

by using selective/flexible focus
mode and moving the focus
point over their eyes.
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Perfect poses
1: Pose with their hands
Introducing your models hands into the shot

can look great. Just make sure their hands are
relaxed and dont look awkward.
2: No slouching!
The best poses reflect your subjects personality.

But, be sure you encourage them to sit or stand
straight for a flattering photo.
Introduce props
1: Interesting clothing
Clothing can be a great prop. Get subjects to

interact with appropriate accessories for fun or
glamorous poses.
2: Everyday objects
Think about the message you want to convey in

your shot and find objects that fit in. These could
be simple things that you have to hand.
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Light your
subject
Position the model
When youre shooting your photos

indoors, make sure that your subject is
positioned near to the window or your
other chosen light source so they do
not appear too dark. If using window
light, turn off the overhead lights to
avoid colour casts in your shot. See the
Directional light section on this page
for tips on how to position them.
Directional light Shadows

You may think that capturing shadows across your
subjects face in a portrait shot is a bad thing. In
some cases, particularly if it appears unflattering
for your subject, then its true that this is the case.
However, you can also use shadows for creative
and dramatic effect in your shots. You could use
natural window light and position your model at
various angles for different effects. Or keep your
model still and move an artificial light source such
as a lamp around to cast shadows. The distance
between your subject and the light will affect the
strength of the shadow, so move them further
apart if you want more subtle results.
1: Backlit
If your subject
is in front of the
light source,
with their back
to it, their entire
face will be in
shadow. Use your
flash to fill in the
light for a more
flattering shot.
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Use a reflector
To eliminate harsh shadows and create an even spread of light, use

a reflector to bounce the light back into the dark areas. Point the
reflector towards the light source and angle it until the light hits your
model. Reposition it and watch where the light falls until its right.
Soften your flash
If you need to illuminate your model with flash, bounce the light off
a piece of paper under it for a softer effect, or twist your flash gun
to bounce off a wall. Diffusing the flash with tracing paper is also an
effective work around.
Catch the light in

their eyes to create
highlights, making
a portrait really
come alive
Capture light in their eyes
Catch the light in their eyes to create highlights, making a portrait

really come alive. Try placing a reflector on your models lap to
create a larger catchlight and then experimenting to get the effect
you want.
2: 45 away from the light
Turn your subject 45 towards the window for a

smooth progression between light and shadow,
keeping most of their face still visible.
3: 90 away from the light
Get your subject to sit or stand parallel to the

window, at a 90 angle. This will produce a harsh
contrast between the light and dark areas.
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4: 90 facing the light
Positioned parallel to the window, get your subject

to turn towards it. Their face will then be well-lit but
the back of their head will be in shadow.
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Compose
the shot
Avoid distracting backgrounds
A busy backdrop will remove attention from your

subject, so avoid capturing things like other
people in your shot.
Look for colour
Look for a location with nice colours to

complement your model. A simple, colourful
background is really flattering.
Positioning
Look to position your model off-centre in the

frame for a stronger composition. You can always
crop into the photo later on in editing software.
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Framing your shot Zoom in or shoot wide

Get up close
Put the focus on your

model by filling the frame
with them, getting rid of
any ugly or distracting
backgrounds in the
process. Try zooming in
so that just their head and
shoulders are visible. You
can always crop in later
using editing software if
you need to.
Go wider
If youre shooting in a
nice location, you could
try including more of the
background in order to
capture your subjects
surroundings. Do this by
shooting at a wide angle.
It works particularly well
if your subject is in a
location that they enjoy, to
bring out natural smiles.
Consider the eyes Adjust the direction of the eyes

Use eye contact
For a striking portrait

shot, the eyes are very
important. Get your
subject to look down the
lens for an engaging shot
that captures their eyes
beautifully. A nice trick
is to get your model to
turn their head away from
you but keep their eyes
focused on the camera.
Shoot high
For really flattering

results, shoot from a high
angle, as this is most
attractive for your subject.
Shooting from below can
accentuate nostrils and
chins so avoid this. If you
cant elevate your position,
try getting your model to
sit on the floor instead.
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Look away
It is okay to break the

photo rules sometimes!
Try shooting your subject
as they look away, and
include some looking
space in the image. This
can often create a more
playful or thoughtful look
to your portrait and can
help to capture your
subjects true personality.
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Master
macro
photography
The ultimate guide to capturing stunning close-ups of any subject
acro is the official term for extreme

close-up photography, and the
idea is to make small objects look
larger than life size. It is a hugely popular
shooting technique, as macro images capture
fascinating details, patterns and textures that
are often invisible to the naked eye. It can
also help to show your subject in an entirely
new way and can produce some beautifully
dramatic and sometimes abstract images, all
you need is a little bit of know-how beforehand.
To take a macro photo, you need to be able
to focus on your subject while it is very close to
the end of your lens. If you are serious about
this type of photography, then it is a good idea
to invest in some of the specialist kit that we
mention in this feature. However, you dont have
to spend a fortune to have a go, as most digital
cameras now come with a dedicated Macro
mode. You can even take stunning close-up
shots with your cameraphone, so there really

is nothing stopping you from trying your hand
at this fascinating genre.
Its not difficult to find a fantastic subject for
your macro shots either, as there are plenty of
small objects to be found around your house
or garden that will look interesting up close.
Then, once you have found something to
shoot, it is easy to master your camera settings
and lighting techniques to help you produce
some stunning images. Focusing close up is
often the trickiest part of macro photography,
but with our few simple tricks you will have no
problem taking sharp shots.
We have packed this feature full of all the
essential tips youll need to get started with
macro, including some advice on choosing a
subject to shoot and how to frame your shot for
the best results. Follow our simple guide and
then its all down to you to experiment.
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Gear guide
All you need to capture great close-ups
Close-up filters
Macro lens
Macro mode
Extension tubes
Close-up filters screw onto your lens and allow

it to focus more closely to your subject. Hoyas
close-up filters are available in +1, +2, +3 and +4
levels of magnification and you can get a range of
different sizes.
Most cameras come with a Macro mode, which

is usually represented by a flower icon on your
mode dial or in your cameras menus. It will
reduce the minimum focusing distance of your
camera, for optimum macro settings.
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A dedicated macro lens will let you focus at a

short distance from your subject. This 40mm f2.8
Micro lens from Nikon has a minimum focusing
distance of 163mm and a wide maximum
aperture for creating a shallow depth of field.
Extension tubes fit between the camera body

and lens, lowering its minimum focusing distance
so you can get closer to your subject. This Dorr
Extension Tube Set contains three tubes of
different lengths to combine together.
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Top macro subjects

Interesting things to shoot up close
1: Intricate insects
Find a particular area that is

popular with insects and wait
patiently for them to arrive.
Insects tend to move more
sluggishly in the morning until
it warms up, so shoot at this
time if possible. Move slowly
when shooting insects and use
a longer focal length so as not
to startle them and make them
run or fly away.
2: Beautiful plants
Go out after it has rained or add your own water droplets to create
more texture. When shooting outdoors, shield the plant from the wind to
prevent blurry shots.
3: Fruit and veg
Look for pieces of fruit and veg that have interesting colours, textures
and patterns. Once you have shot the outside of the fruit, cut it open
and capture the inside too.
4: Everyday objects
Find objects with intricate details or unusual

textures that look great close up. Create an
abstract shot by shooting a small part of a larger
object up close.
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The vital macro settings

Control your camera for great macro results
Macro lenses have a shallow depth of eld, so set a

high f-number to keep as much detail sharp
Use Burst mode when shooting moving subjects. Use

a tripod and self-timer on static ones to stop blurring
If your photos are too dark, use a slower shutter

speed or raise your ISO
Amazing macro on your phone Get up close with your cameraphone
1: Get in tiny places
A cameraphone lets you get into small places

and shoot at awkward angles. Experiment and
see what images you can create from unique and
interesting perspectives.
2: Use a macro lens
As your phones camera may not let you focus

very close, use a phone macro lens for better
results, like this Olloclip that easily attaches to
your iPhone.
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3: Lock the focus
If your phone has a focus locking function, use

it to ensure your shots are sharp. Tap the AF
Lock button to lock the area of focus while you
recompose your shot.
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Get perfect lighting

Lighting techniques to help enhance your macro photos
Soften the light
Make use of natural light either outdoors or

through a window, but avoid shooting when
the sun is very bright as it will create harsh
shadows in your photos. For more control over
your lighting, create your own using a desk
lamp. Try placing some tracing paper in front of
it to soften the light for more flattering results.
Keep it natural
Using your pop-up flash when shooting up

close will produce very harsh light for your
images and could startle your subject if you
are photographing insects, so turn it off. If the
light hitting your macro subject is too bright,
try blocking it with a piece of paper or card, or
reposition yourself to create some shade with
your body.
Use a tungsten white

balance setting when
using a desk lamp
Compose
for more
impact
Position your subject
Knowing how to frame your shot is also a
vital part of capturing a marvellous macro
photo. The position of your subject and the
background you use both affect the overall
balance of the image.
1: Fill the frame
As is the aim with macro, your subject will

naturally fill the frame if you can get your camera
close enough. A tight composition will also create
a more dramatic, abstract or intimate image.
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2: Position off-centre
Use the rule of thirds to create an engaging

composition. Place your subject, or the most
important part of it, off-centre. Switch on your
gridlines and place it where the lines intersect.
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Focus up close
Keep your macro subjects sharp
Stationary subjects
If you are using autofocus, be sure to set the focus point over the most
important part of your subject to ensure this is the sharp part of the
frame. When you are close to your subject, the cameras autofocus can
sometimes struggle. Taking the time to manually focus will ensure your
shot is sharp.
Moving subjects
Using continuous autofocus will get your camera to track your subject as it
moves and keep it in focus, even if its movements are fast and unpredictable.
If you know where your subject is going to land or move to, then use manual
focus to pre-focus on that spot, then fire the shutter when they come into view.
3: Add a backdrop
If you cant find a clean backdrop for your shot,

add your own by placing a piece of paper or card
behind your subject. Try using coloured card or
wrapping paper that complements your subject.
4: Try new angles
Produce unique or abstract images by shooting

your subject from unusual angles. For example,
try shooting from above or underneath and make
use of your tilting LCD screen if you have one.
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5: Consider colours
If the background is natural, make sure the

colours complement each other and there are no
distractions. Aim to include no more than three
colours to prevent it from appearing too cluttered.
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Capture perfect
still life shots
Master the skills needed for setting up a fantastic still life shot
he best thing about still life photography is that

you can really take your time to get it perfect.
When shooting moving subjects, it can be
tempting to stick your camera in Auto mode for fear of
missing a shot, but if your subject is stationary then you
can experiment until you get it right. Thats why it is a
fantastic genre for practising with manual modes.
Whats more, there are subjects wherever you look.
You dont have to stick to a bowl of fruit or vase of
flowers, although they do make for beautiful shots;
just let your imagination run wild and get creative
with whatever you can find. Still life photography
is also a great way of showing off your kitchen

or craft creations, as once you have taken your
shot you can share it with the world online. Join
social networking sites to showcase your images,
such as Pinterest, Flickr and Instagram.
Once you have found your subject, you can
experiment with ways of shooting it. Try making use
of shadows or reflections and look for interesting
angles, props and backgrounds. You can even
give your shot an added wow factor with a bit
of creative editing. Let us guide you through the
process of capturing a still life masterpiece.
Gear guide Essential kit for still life photography
A camera with manual controls
Wide aperture lens
A reflector for bouncing the light
Sturdy tripod
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Control of things like depth of field by using manual. This

Nikon D5200 (720/$800) is a 24.1MP DSLR with P, A, S, M
modes and a vari-angle LCD for composing.
Whatever your light source, a reflector will let you bounce it

back on your subject. This compact Interfit 56cm reflector
(20/$20) achieves a subtle effect.
A wide aperture lens like the Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR

35mm f1.8G (208/$200) lets you create a shallow depth
of field. Find out more at www.nikon.co.uk.
Use a tripod to compose your shot and keep it straight.

The Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod (175/$223) with 804RC2
pan tilt head (75/$89) is a solid option.
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Setting up
Find a subject and compose your shot
he first step for creating a still life photo is to

find a subject. If you need some guidance,
look at our tips for what makes an excellent still
life subject, then discover how to frame your shot.
We will also guide you through the best settings to
use, but be sure to make the most of having the
time to experiment and find what works best for your
particular shot.
Focus carefully
Take your time to focus your
shot and make sure the most
important element is perfectly
sharp. Zoom in on your LCD
screen to check.
Choose a subject Tips for finding the perfect objects to shoot
1: Look for colour
Bright, colourful objects will really stand out. Try

to include no more than three colours in your shot
to prevent it from looking too cluttered, and look
for colours that complement each other. You can
experiment with different backdrop shades.
2: Find some texture
Subjects with interesting textures add another

element to your photo. Place subjects with
different surfaces together to show contrast.
Remember, cutting open something like a piece
of fruit can reveal a whole new texture.
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3: Include patterns
Attractive patterns are good to include in a still life

setup, whether they are on your main subject or
the backdrop of your shot. Make sure you dont
include too many different patterns though, as it
could result in a busy final image.
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Set the scene
1: Remove distractions
Find a clear surface with no clutter or put up

a piece of card to act as a plain backdrop to
avoid distracting attention from your subject.
2: Fill the frame
Get up close or zoom in so your subject fills

the frame, without cutting off any important
parts. This creates a more dramatic shot.
3: Try another angle
Once you have taken a shot, try shooting the

same subject from a different angle, rearrange
your scene, or perhaps use another backdrop.
4: Choose a theme
Rather than just placing a few random objects

together, try to include subjects that follow a
particular theme. You could work around an item
you have already found, or decide on a theme first
and then find subjects that will fit it.
5: Create a mood
Shooting certain objects can help you create a

still life image with a specific mood: for example,
happy or melancholic. The colours and backdrop
can also give character to your photo, so think
carefully about these as well as your subject.
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4: Add a prop
Introduce a prop such as a fork or vase to add

context. Think about what will work with your
subject and position it so it looks natural.
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Lighting
Use natural or artificial light for top results
aving plenty of time to set up your still

life shot also gives you the opportunity
to experiment with different lighting
techniques. Make use of natural light by setting
up your shot by a window or outside, or use
artificial light from a desk lamp to allow yourself
more control. You could even try out both options
to see what works best.
To add some depth to your shot, light your

subject from the side to create strong shadows
across the scene. This can look particularly
striking if your subject has an interesting shape,
so consider this when deciding what to shoot.
Anything goes with still life photography, so get
really creative and see what different effects you
can create.
Position your
subject by a
large window,
or perhaps on a
nearby table or
the windowsill
Set your white

balance to suit
the lighting
condition,
otherwise your
shot will have
an unusual
colour cast
Light position
If light comes
from behind your
subject it will appear
underexposed
so reposition it or
reflect light back in.
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Create a home studio

Use a few items from around your home
Light diffuser
Studios use softboxes to
reduce the harshness of
a light. There are home
alternatives you can use,
though, such as putting
tracing paper in front of
your lamp.
Infinity wall
An infinity wall is a seamless
backdrop where you cant see
any creases or folds. In studios
they have expensive setups
like coloramas but a large
piece of paper works too!
Your subject
Position your subject
exactly where you want it
to be. You dont need
to worry about the
background, as it is all
taken care of.
Studio lighting
A desk-top lamp is a
cheap alternative to studio
lights and is a great option
as you can bend the neck
to position it just how you
want it to be.
How to assemble your studio Get the most out of home alternatives
1: Put up the backdrop
Get a large sheet of plain paper or card. It will

need to be A3 size or larger, depending on the
size of your subject. Tape one end of it to the wall
and the other end to the table so that the
paper curves.
2: Set up a desk lamp
Position your desk lamp to the side to produce

some dramatic shadows or put it at the front to
light your subject more evenly. Moving it closer or
further away will also affect the strength of the light
and shadows.
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3: Add some tracing paper
The light from your desk lamp can sometimes be

a bit harsh, so tape some tracing paper in front of
it to diffuse it. This will soften the light and make
any shadows across your subject appear much
more subtle.
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Shoot action
photography
Keep up with moving subjects and capture sharp shots of the action
ameras can capture spectacular shots of

moving subjects, as long as you know how to
master the settings. By changing your cameras
shutter speed, you can freeze seconds of action that are
too fast for the naked eye to register, or capture motion
blur to demonstrate speed and direction.
The autofocus systems on many cameras have vastly
improved in recent times, and will help you to capture
fast-moving subjects so that stay sharp and in focus.
Even so, it helps to be familiar with the different focusing
options on your camera, and focusing manually often

produces great results.
Whether you are shooting sports, wildlife, or your
kids playing in the park, let us help you get to grips with
shutter speeds and focusing techniques, as well as the
essential kit for the job, so that you can take your best
ever photos. We will also guide you through the tricky
task of lighting and composing your action shots, and
provide you with some simple ideas for putting our tips
into practice at home.
Gear guide Kit for action photography
Monopod
Telephoto lens
Camera bag
Camera strap
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A monopod is simply a one-legged tripod. Its easier to

move around but still provides support.
A padded camera bag will protect your camera and

accessories when you are chasing after subjects.
This lens reaches large focal lengths, allowing close-up

shots of the action from a safe distance.
Use a strap so that you can access your camera in a flash

if an unexpected photo opportunity arises.
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Dynamic angles
Decide in advance where to
shoot your subject from so
that you get the best angle,
while keeping safe and out
of the way of the action.
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Freeze action
Capture a split second of movement in your shot
hotography allows you to preserve a single moment

in time forever, even if it only lasts a fraction of a
second. You can capture the moment a runner crosses
the finishing line, your dog catches its ball or your child does
a trick on their bike. Changing the shutter speed will produce
different effects, while other handy functions will guarantee you
come away with the crucial shot. Here, we will show you the best
settings for stunning results.
Continuous shooting mode takes a

series of shots so you can pick the best one
Sports or action
scene modes
select the right
settings, doing
the hard work
for you
If you can, set up your

camera in advance
Speed it up
A fast shutter speed
(1/100sec or higher)
will produce a sharp
image, even when
the subject is moving
at high speed.
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Shutter speeds Go fast or slow for different effects
Fast shutter
A fast shutter speed of 1/100sec or over will freeze

your subject, although really fast subjects will
require higher.
Medium shutter
Using a shutter speed of between 1/60sec and

1/3sec will capture a bit of motion blur as your
subject moves.
Slow shutter
Selecting a shutter speed of 1sec or slower

creates lots of blur that will show the direction of
movement for effect.
Lighting Tricks to help you get well-lit shots
1: Choose your ISO
Using a fast shutter does not allow much time for

light to get through your lens. If you are shooting
in dark conditions, raise your ISO to make your
camera more sensitive to the available light so you
can keep using fast shutter speeds.
2: Fire your flash
If the light is low or your subject is backlit, fire your

flash to illuminate them. This wont be as effective
if your subject is a great distance away though, as
your flash may not be powerful enough to reach
them. Try to move closer if you can.
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3: Re-position your subject
Try to shoot from an angle so that your light

source is in front of your subject. This will
prevent them from being backlit and therefore
underexposed in your shot. It may take a bit of
planning to find the best place to stand.
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Panning
Create motion blur by tracking movement
ction photography
doesnt just have to
involve freezing your
subject in the frame. Sometimes,
including a bit of blur in your shots
actually better demonstrates
movement, and also helps to
show the speed and direction
that your subject is travelling in.
Panning is a clever way to create
blur in your shot while keeping
your subject sharp and in focus.
It often takes a bit of practice
before you can produce great
results, but here we give you a
step-by-step guide to help you
on your way. We also have some
useful tips for mastering focusing
techniques and composition,
so you can produce clear and
dynamic shots even if you or your
subject are in a hurry.
Pan with your subject Create background blur to show speed
1: Choose your settings
Select Shutter Priority mode and choose your

shutter speed. It will need to be fast enough to
freeze your subject in the frame but slow enough
to give you time to pan. 1/50sec is a good starting
point, but experiment from there.
2: Use burst mode
Burst mode will take a series of shots every time

you press the shutter. This will ensure that you
come away with a great shot, as even if you first
press the shutter too early, your camera will keep
shooting until you have finished panning.
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3: Steady your camera
A monopod will give you the freedom to swivel

your camera as you track your subject for a
smooth panning shot. It will also help you to
keep your camera steady in order to avoid any
unwanted blur.
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Keep action sharp
1: Continuous autofocus
This mode will get your camera to continually

focus while you are pressing the shutter, which is
useful if your subject is moving erratically.
Get the subject right

Cars make for great panning
subjects, as they move in
a fluid and steady motion
through your frame.
2: Focus tracking
In this mode the camera predicts the speed and

direction a subject is moving in and tracks them,
which is useful when the motion is fluid.
Master your cameras
focusing settings to get
sharp shots every time
4: Pre-focus the shot
To keep your subject sharp in the frame, prefocus on the area they will travel into. You could
manually focus or half-press the shutter to lock
the focus point, and then fully press it when your
subject moves into the frame.
5: Pan with your subject
When your subject is in position, press the shutter

and swivel your camera along with them as they
move. Its likely to be a case of trial and error, so
dont be put off if you dont get a perfect shot first
time round.
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Master
wildlife
photography
Discover when, where and how to capture amazing photos of animals
ildlife can be found almost

anywhere, and is a great subject
for practising your photo skills. You
dont have to go to the zoo or a safari park to
get excellent images of animals either, as lots of
species can be found in your garden or park.
Patience is important to master with wildlife
photography, as you cannot direct an animal to
pose for you. Capturing those one-off fleeting
moments is what makes it so exciting, so dont
be put off if you have to wait around! There
are also steps you can take to boost your

chances of a great shot, such as putting out
food to entice animals into view. Just keep a
safe distance so you dont scare them off. Of
course, taking photos at the zoo also comes
with challenges, but there are easy tricks to
ensure you get brilliant shots.
Follow our guide for the best way to plan and
take your animal shots, learn the best times of
day to find certain species, and discover how to
edit your images to make them truly stunning.
Gear guide Kit for wildlife photography
Telephoto lens
Remove shutter release
Camouflage cover
Polarising filter
Use a long lens to get close-ups while keeping

your distance so the animal isnt aware of you.
Hides and other camouflage can help you blend

in with the scenery and not scare your subjects.
Use a tripod and remote release to take a shot a

few steps back from the animals.
Prevent capturing your reflection when youre

shooting through glass by using a polarising filter.
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Observe your animal subjects

Discover which areas of your garden
attract wildlife, such as a particular tree or
a flowerbed, so you know where to set up.
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Use natural light

Set up near to areas that are
well lit to make use of natural
light. You could try setting up a
bird table in the most well-lit part
of your garden, for instance.
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Be prepared
Where to find wildlife and get set up
lanning is a good idea if you want to

capture your best-ever animal shots. If
you want to photograph certain animals,
it helps to know what time of day they are
usually most active, or what kind of food you
might be able to lay out to entice them, for
instance. Having the right settings prepared
also makes it easier to get great animal shots
when the creatures arrive. In this guide we will
help you with these aspects of your shoot, and
also highlight the key environments to look out
for when wildlife spotting in your local area.
Setting up Get yourself and your camera ready to shoot
1: Do your research
If you are looking to capture a particular animal,

research their habits and feeding times. This will
help you plan the best time to phoatograph them
and give you an idea of the type of shot to aim for.
2: Choose your position
Position yourself so that the background of your

shots will not be distracting. Green plants or trees
make a suitably plain backdrop. You can also
crop in close to cut out any distractions.
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3: Keep quiet
Move slowly and quietly around wildlife so you do

not scare them off. Also be sure to turn the sound
off on your camera as this could startle animals
and cause them to run away.
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Nocturnal species
Moose
Ra
bbit
s
Sn
ak
es
Animals active
at dawn
Perfect settings
M
ot
h
Continuous autofocus will help to keep your

subject in focus, even as they move around.
Horses
Hyenas
nks
Sku
Lion
s
es
orcupin
sP
bird
ong
S
Hed
geh
og
s
ts
rre
Fe
Mi
ce
aroos
Kang
ts
Ba
ls
w
O
s
oxe
F
ats
mb
o
W
Butt
er
ies
Liz
a
s
rd
er
De
B
ee
s
ts
an
ph
Ele
es
Primat
irrels
Squ
Coyo
tes
Bob
cat
s
B
e
et
les
Animals active
at dusk
Daytime species
The best time of day to find certain animals

Different species of animals are more active
at certain times of day. It may be because
this is when they hunt for food, for example
butterflies are more likely to find flowers to
pollinate in the day. Or it could be that they are
best suited to certain conditions. It is useful
to know when the species you are looking to
Zoom right in to get great shots while staying

at a distance from subjects.
Continuous shooting will take several shots in

one burst to guarantee a brilliant image.
photograph is most active, as this is when you

are likely to bag the shot.
Use our chart to see what time of day some
popular animals to photograph come out at.
Use this to plan your shoot and the settings
you will need for the lighting conditions that will
be available at that particular time.
Select shutter priority and a fast shutter speed
for a sharp shot of animals in action.
4: Turn off your flash
If daylight is fading, avoid using your flash as

this will scare the animals. Try raising your ISO to
make your camera more sensitive to the available
light, or wait for them to move into ambient light.
5: Camouflage yourself
Keep a safe distance from the animals and avoid

wearing bright clothes that will make you stand
out. Wear greens and browns to blend in with the
natural habitat and try to keep quiet and still.
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6: Be ready to go
If you are shooting a fast-moving animal, they may

be gone before you manage to get your camera
out of the bag and the lens cap off. Always have
your camera out and ready to shoot.
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Techniques
The skills and tricks you need when you start to shoot
hether you are in your back garden or at the zoo, there are a few
things that you need to think about before you take your shot. Its
easy to forget about composition when you are trying to capture a
split-second of action, but it can still help turn a good shot into a brilliant one. By
remembering a few simple tricks you can make it easier to increase your chances
of coming away with the perfect snap.
You also need to consider obstructions such as fences and glass windows
which make it tricky to get good shots of animals in captivity. However, it is easy
to overcome the problems they cause by implementing a few tricks.
Get the right angle
Try to shoot at eye level with the subject for more

natural, majestic images.
Shoot through glass
When shooting through glass, keep your lens

close to the glass to avoid harsh reflections.
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Eliminate fences
Use a small f number and zoom in to make

fences disappear!
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Make use of scene modes

Sports scene mode is handy as it
selects the best settings for fast-moving
subjects, so you dont miss a shot.
Zoom in close
If cant get too close to your subject, use the cameras zoom so that the
subject fills the frame, avoiding distracting backgrounds.
Focus on the eyes
It can create an effective shot if the focus is on the subjects eyes, so move
your AF selection point over their eyes to focus in that spot.
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Editing
Find the perfect editing software

You may find the free editing software,
such as Picasa or GIMP easiest to use, so
research what you need before buying.
Enhance your creature captures
etting the perfect shot when your subject is moving

can be difficult and often a bit of post-production
is needed for wildlife photos. You may not have had
time to select the correct settings or think about composition
if the moment the animal pulled the perfect pose was fast and
unexpected. There may have also been some unavoidable
distractions in your shot, such as the fence that was protecting
you from a dangerous creature.
There are ways to clear up these issues, however, which we
will show you using Photoshop Elements 11. A lot of the edits will
also work in free software such as GIMP, though, if you do not
have Elements.
Before
Boost colours and sharpen Adjust levels and colour curves for a more eye-catching shot
1: Remove colour cast
If your image has an unusual

colour tint to it, then go to
Enhance>Adjust Colour>Remove
Colour Cast. Then select a part
of your shot that is either black,
grey or white, and Elements will
correct the colour cast for you.
2: Adjust the Levels
Go to Enhance>Adjust Lighting>
Levels. Select the black, white or
grey Dropper tool and click on the
corresponding colour in your shot.
This will automatically alter your
Levels. Boost them further by moving
the arrows under the histogram.
3: Adjust colour curves
Go to Enhance>Adjust Colour>
Adjust Colour Curves and select
Default from the Select a Style menu.
Move the Highlights, Shadows and
Brightness sliders until you are
happy with how your shot looks in
the preview box.
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4: Sharpen up
Shooting moving animals can

sometimes leave you with slightly
blurry shots. To sharpen them up, go
to Enhance>Adjust Sharpness and
preview a blurry area of your shot.
Move the Amount and Radius sliders
until your shot looks a little sharper.
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Remove a fence
Two simple methods
Recompose
Straighten your shot
Before
Before
1: Spot healing tool
2: Remove the fence
1: Automatic straighten
2: Straighten manually
3: Clone Stamp tool
4: Clone out the fence
3: Crop in
4: Recompose
The simplest way to remove a

distracting animal-enclosure fence
from your shot is to use the Spot
Healing Brush tool. Select it from
the toolbar on the left-hand side of
the screen in Elements and adjust
the brush size.
If your fence is in a slightly trickier

position, then you can try using the
Clone Stamp tool. Select it from the
toolbar on the left-hand side of the
screen in Photoshop Elements and
adjust the brush size to suit. You
can also amend opacity.
Now drag your cursor over the

fence in your shot and the editing
software will remove it. This works
by blending the area to the rest of
the image as best as possible, and
this method works really well in
most situations.
The Clone Stamp tool works by

copying a specific area of the
image and pasting it over another
area. Select an area similar to that
which is covered by the fence
(Alt+click on it), and then draw over
the fence to paste it on top.
Elements 11 has a great tool to

automatically straighten your image.
Go to Image>Rotate> Straighten
Image and wait for Elements to
work its magic. It is usually pretty
accurate, but if it doesnt look quite
right you can straighten it yourself.
Now you need to crop your shot

in order to straighten up the
edges. Select the Crop tool from
the toolbar on the left-hand side,
drag your cursor over the image to
highlight the area you want to keep.
Then click the green tick to crop.
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If you want to straighten your image

yourself, then in Elements head to
Image>Transform>Free Transform.
Now hover your cursor over the
corner of your image until you see
a little curved-arrow icon, then drag
the image around until it is straight.
Using the Crop tool again, improve

the composition of your shot. Use
the gridlines to position your subject
off-centre in the frame, leaving
some active space in front of them.
When you are finished, click the
green tick to complete your shot.
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Time it right
Shoreline shots work
best when the tide is
receding, leaving the
rocks wet and shiny,
and the sand clean
and smooth.
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Get creative
shooting
water
Capture amazing seascapes, waterfalls and much more!
ater can be incorporated into your

photography in a number of ways,
whether you feature it as part of a
wider shot or use it as your main subject. You
can enhance your landscape shots by including
a sea, lake or river and capture reflections in still
water, or produce images of dramatic splashes

or tiny droplets of water resting on plants. Just
make sure that you and your kit stay safe by
keeping an eye on the tide and maintaining
a safe distance from the water, as well as
investing in some good protective gear.
Gear guide Useful kit for photographing water
Tough camera
Using a tough camera means you wont have to

worry about getting it wet. This Nikon COOLPIX
AW110 (300/$350) is waterproof up to 18m.
Versatile flashgun
Firing your flash can help you to freeze the motion

of water. The Nikon SB-700 (296/$330) can be
used on or off camera. Visit www.nikon.co.uk
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Shooting for long exposure
Bulb mode, on Nikons D3200 (500/$700 with

18-55mm lens), blurs water by keeping its shutter
open until you release the button.
Sturdy tripod and ND filter
For steady and well-exposed shots, use a tripod

and ND filter, like this Velbon Sherpa 200R (107/
approx $167) and Cokins A154 ND8 (14/$22).
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Shoot water at home

Easy water photography projects to try today
ou dont need to travel to the coast or find a nearby lake or

river to get great shots of water. There is plenty of scope for
taking fantastic images in the comfort of your own home, using
common household items and the water from your kitchen tap. From
capturing droplets of water in your photos to freezing objects in ice
and then shooting them, there are lots of different ways to get creative
with water. Here, we give you our top tips for setting up your own water
photography projects at home. Try following the guides to see what
interesting and unusual images you can produce, starting with this one to
help you capture water droplets.
From capturing
droplets of water to
freezing objects in ice,
there are lots of ways
to get creative
Freeze water drops in motion
Switch to Burst mode and your camera will
take a series of shots while you are holding
down the shutter, so you have a better
chance of getting a great photo.
1: Pre-focus
Hold a pencil or straw in the place where your drip

will hit the water and pre-focus on it. Either use
manual focus, or half-press your shutter to lock
your autofocus point on that area.
2: Set your speed
Set your camera to Shutter Priority mode and

select a fast shutter speed. Start off with 1/250sec
and then make it faster if your shots are coming
out blurry or you keep missing the droplet.
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3: Start the drips
Pierce a hole in the bottom of a plastic cup and fill

it with water so it drips through. Hold it over a dish
of water for it to bounce off. Set up near a window
or lamp at a distance and switch on your flash.
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Have fun with ice
Of course, water comes in many forms, so dont

overlook its solid state. When temperatures drop, look
for interesting patterns in frozen water and shoot them
up close for creative macro shots. Alternatively, create
your own ice at home in your freezer. You could even
freeze objects in the ice to shoot them in a completely
new and unusual way. As ice is a reflective surface,
shield it from any bright, direct light to avoid reflections
showing up in your images. Youll need a camera with
macro mode or a macro lens such as Nikons DX Micro
85mm 3.5G to get in really close to ice textures.
Shoot creative droplets
Water droplets can help to enhance your photography

subjects by adding another texture to them, so it is worth
going out just after it has rained to capture droplets on
flowers and other objects. Of course, you can also create
your own water droplets to shoot at home, too. Simply dip
the end of a straw into water and then drop individual beads
of water onto your chosen waterproof surface. Try arranging
your droplets into an interesting shape and then get up
close to shoot them. You can also add a bit of glycerin to
the water to help your droplets hold their shape or add food
dye for some extra colour.
Get bubbly
Bubbles of air in water can be captured in a number

of different ways in your photos. You could submerge
your subject in the water and shoot the air bubbles
that cling to it, or blow your own bubbles to create
more abstract shots. Just fill a container with water
and then blow through a straw. To create even more
bubbles, use fizzy water or add a bit of washing up
liquid to still water. You could even try adding ink or
food colouring to produce more colourful results.
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Capture the coast

How to shoot stunning seascapes
oastal scenes are among the most popular

subjects with photographers, and its easy
to see why. With jagged rocks and dramatic
tides, they can make for truly compelling images.
Successful seascapes often use strong foreground
interest, and there are plenty of options on the coast:
rocks, reflections in rock pools, patterns in the sand and

so on. Its best to keep compositions simple and avoid
trying to cram too much into the frame uncluttered,
structured scenes work best. Water adds power and
motion to shots, and this energy is often best conveyed
with the use of a long shutter speed.
Keep shots sharp

To keep everything in your shot sharp,
shoot in Aperture Priority or Manual
mode and select a small aperture
(large f-number) such as f16. Then
focus about a third of the way into the
scene to maximise the depth of field.
Blur water movement Get long exposures using a neutral density (ND) filter
1: Set Shutter Priority mode
Shutter Priority (S or Tv) is a semi-automated

mode in which you select the shutter speed to get
the effect you want and the camera then sets the
aperture to get the correct exposure. For good
results with waves, set a speed of 15-20 seconds.
2: Put on an ND filter
Neutral density filters absorb light, reducing the

amount that reaches the sensor and allowing
photographers to set a longer shutter speed than
normal. Doing this without an ND will result in
overexposure, unless the light is very low.
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3: Use a tripod
Your shutter will be open for several seconds to

capture the water movement. Even if you have
very steady hands, you wont be able to avoid
camera shake, so put your camera on a tripod to
keep it still during the shot.
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Tips for seascapes
1: Use a polarising filter
Polarisers reduce glare and increase contrast and

saturation. They reduce hotspots on the water
surface and can enhance reflections.
2: Protect your kit

Create a dynamic shot
Salt water and electronics dont mix very well, so

youll want to protect your gear from splashes with
a rain cover. A plastic bag will work just as well!
For a 3D look, use a wide-angle lens

and a low viewpoint. Position the
camera close to foreground interest
to create a sense of perspective.
3: Look for reflections
Double the impact by shooting a subject with its

reflection in the water. Still water will produce best
results, so sheltered rock or tidal pools are ideal.
4: Set a low ISO
To get the longest shutter speed possible, set

your camera to its lowest ISO value (usually
around 100 or 200). This makes the sensor less
sensitive to light, meaning you can use longer
shutter speeds.
5: Avoid shake
Even on a tripod, your camera will move when

you press the shutter, so set the self-timer instead.
Also turn off Vibration Reduction if you have it
as this can actually introduce shake when your
camera is on a tripod.
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4: Include a focal point
A large expanse of water looks great, but doesnt

usually make for an engaging shot. Include a
point of interest, like rocks or a distant headland.
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Consider lighting
Lighting is key in black and
white shots, so make sure
that your subject is well lit.
Take beautiful
black & white photos
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Discover how to transform

your colour captures into stunning
monochromes
lack and white photography has

come on a long way since it was first
developed in the darkroom. Moving on
from film to digital, this traditional medium has
really stood the test of time, and it remains as
popular now as it ever was. Using this style,
you can produce some really sophisticated and
often dramatic imagery.
Capturing black and white on camera
has improved dramatically over the years,
largely thanks to the development of digital
technology. Photographers have more options
and control over the creative outcome of their
monochrome captures, as its now possible
to shoot in colour and convert to black and
white later on. Image editing software, such
as Photoshop, has even revived long-standing
darkroom techniques and brought them into
the digital age as specialist editing tools,
making it much easier and quicker to convert to
black and white than ever before.
Black and white photography itself has
developed over time too, with different aesthetic
styles emerging across various photographic
genres. From landscapes to portraits and still
life, there are endless ways to embrace the
medium and make it your own. Join us over
the following pages as we help you get started
in black and white photography by stripping
back the colour and focusing on the form of a
photograph.
These tips are here to help you improve your
photography skills and techniques, which you
can then apply to any subject at all. Take a
look at our inspirational images to get some
ideas together, but try and be as creative as
you can! Whatever subject youre shooting,
with our simple advice you will get stunning
monochromes in no time at all.
Its now possible

to shoot in colour
and convert to
black and white
later on
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Styling black & white

Find out how to get a particular look for your shots
Low-key
Low-key is a style that makes use of dark tones and reduced light, and it
makes a big statement when converted to black and white. The shadows are
great at drawing you further into the frame in search of brighter highlights. The
key to creating a successful low-key black and white effect is underexposing
the image slightly in-camera when shooting. For effective results, there will
need to be a strong, direct source of light within the scene that contrasts
heavily with the shadows. In Photoshop, you can then exaggerate this effect
by increasing the contrast using the Curves or Levels tool. Once you have
converted to black and white, focus on ensuring that theres enough detail in
the highlights to draw any viewers in.
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Film effects
Retro is all the rage at the moment, even in photography. Replicating the style of
old film is incredibly popular both with colour and black and white images. This
effect, however, can only really be achieved during the editing stages, unless your
camera offers a designated retro film filter. For the best conversion results, ensure
youve exposed the subject or scene evenly in-camera first. In Photoshop, you can
then convert to black and white by desaturating the shot. Use the Output levels
slider in the Levels adjustment tool and pull in the shadows for a white wash effect.
You can then add monochromatic grain using the Add Noise filter.
High-key
High-key lighting creates a bright and bold black and white effect. To
effectively shoot high-key in-camera, you need plenty of light both on the
subject and in the background. Youll need to use a reflector or fill-in flash
to do this effectively. For the best exposure results, adjust your camera
settings to slightly overexpose the shot. Youll need wider aperture settings
(smaller f-numbers) to do this, which allows more light in through the lens
and creates an artistic shallow depth of field effect. In Photoshop, you
can then use the Black & White adjustment layer to convert the image
to monochrome, and control tonal contrast using the coloured sliders.
Increase overall contrast for a punchier result using Curves.
Gritty effects
Black and white is great at bringing out existing textures in a subject or
scene. Gritty effects work particularly well with street photography and
low-light scenes. To create a gritty effect in your black and white photos,
youll need to up your ISO settings while shooting. ISO not only increases
your cameras sensitivity to light but also introduces noise, which replicates
the appearance of film grain when converted to monochrome. A wellcontrasted scene can also heighten the effect and further adjustments in
Photoshop will help to bring out more obvious textures. Use tools such
as Levels to increase contrast while editing and introduce more noise if
needed using the Add Noise filter.
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Shooting for
black & white
Top tips for great shots
1: Shoot in colour
Keep your options open by avoiding black and white modes that
may be available in-camera. Always shoot in colour, that way youll
have the option to convert to monochrome later on.
2: Work with RAW
RAW image files hold much more information than JPEGs, which
means they convert better to black and white and dont decrease in
quality or size when edited. Change the file format youre shooting in
to RAW before you begin.
3: Watch your exposure
For high or low-key monochromes, youll need to get the exposure

right. Check the histogram to see how over or underexposed your
images are. If its bunched to the left it is underexposed, and if its
bunched to the right it is overexposed.
4: Look for contrast
When youre framing for black and white photographs, look out
for existing contrast within the scene. Bright highlights and heavy
shadows are ideal for punchier black and white shots when they are
converted.
5: Shoot structure
When you are shooting, try to frame strong forms within the scene.
Heavily contrasted black and white shots highlight structure well and
can make architecture or landscapes really stand out.
6: Adjust your ISO
ISO can increase your cameras sensitivity to light, which is useful if

youre shooting in low-light conditions. Upping your ISO settings will
result in brighter exposures, but watch out for noise if you want to
avoid grainy conversions.
7: Focus on texture
As black and white brings out contrast in a subject or scene,

textures can appear tangible. Look to frame and focus on textures
in your shots. Rocky landscapes or textured close-ups can be
transformed when converted to greyscale.
8: Dramatic skies
Dull grey skies can be a write-off if you intend to shoot a landscape

in colour, but dramatic, stormy skies can be transformed and look
fantastic when they are converted to black and white. Try increasing
the images contrast when you are editing it to help bring out the
texture of the clouds.
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9: Fill in with light
Introduce more light and contrast into your captures using a reflector
or fill-in flash. With a white reflector youll need to bounce existing
light into the shadow areas of the shot. Flash will give you more
control as its possible to adjust its strength.
10: Wide apertures
If you want high-key results, youll need to brighten up your exposure

by letting more light in through the lens. Work with wide apertures
(small f-numbers) to do this. The resulting shallow depth of field will
also give your images an artistic edge.
11: Preview black and white
Its possible on some cameras to preview how your image will look
when converted to monochrome. Select the editing tab in your
camera menu and apply a basic black and white filter. Save the
basic edit separately on your memory card.
12: Follow the rules
Use compositional rules such as lines that lead you through the
frame and positioning focal points a third of the way across to
create a well-balanced shot. Without colour to distract the eye, the
composition needs to be on point.
13: Consider colour tone
Pay attention to the colours in the scene when youre composing. A

lot of similar tones wont convert well to black and white as contrast
will be lacking. Look to frame contrasting colours like red and green
if you want successful conversions.
14: Keep it sharp
As black and white brings out textures, ensure all of your shots are
suitably sharp up close. Youll need to check your focus and ensure
that youre working with the correct shutter speed for steady shots.
15: Filter the light
You can increase tonal contrast in your

black and white shots by using specialist
coloured filters on the end of your lens.
Red and blue filters make a noticeable
difference to contrast when youve
converted your captures. Red darkens
blue and green colours in the scene,
while green darkens red hues.
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Make a difference
Good lighting is often the
secret to professionallooking shots, whether
its natural or artificial.
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Discover essential
lighting tips
Use our tips and techniques for perfectly lit shots every time
hotography is essentially the recording

of light to produce an image, so good
lighting is particularly important if you
want to produce great shots. Mastering
your cameras exposure settings, such as
aperture, shutter speed and ISO, will allow
you to adjust how your camera reads the light,
but for the best results you really need to get
the light right to begin with. Of course, you
cant have much control over the natural light
from the sun, but in this section we will reveal
a few secrets for using it to your advantage
whatever time of day you are shooting.
Controlling indoor lighting is much easier, but

it can also be quite easy to get wrong. A good
lighting setup takes careful consideration, but
by reading on you can discover simple advice
for getting it right every time.
Its important to remember that your camera
comes with its own light source as well. Using
flash is very useful for a number of situations,
but knowing which flash mode to pick for
each scenario is vital. Over the course of
this section, we will show you everything
you need to know to master perfect lighting,
using equipment and kit to suit any budget.
Using flash is very

useful for a number
of situations, but
knowing which
flash mode to
pick is vital
Gear guide Camera accessories to improve your lighting
Flashgun
Get powerful light with a flashgun

such as Nikons SB-300 (140/$150,
www.nikon.co.uk), which can be
tilted up.
Flash diffuser
Diffusers like the Sto-Fen OmniBounce diffuser (approx 12/$20)

soften flash light, and are available
in various sizes.
Flash gels
Coloured gels like Rogues

Universal Flash Gels Kit (30/$30)
let you change the colour of the
flash light.
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Reflector
A reflector like Lastolites 30-inch

circular reflector (42/$52) lets you
effectively bounce light back into
the shadows.
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Indoor lighting
Position your light source for the best results
reating your own light setup means

that you can have plenty of control
over the lighting for your indoor shots.
You dont need to splash out on expensive
studio lights though, as a simple desk lamp
or bright window will still allow you to get great

results for your images.
Whether you are using artificial or natural
light, considering the position of your light
source can have a big effect on how your
1: Change the angle
3: Control the distance
Lighting your subject from above or

front-on will suppress any texture in
your shot, so is useful if you want
to smooth wrinkles in a portrait.
Lighting your subject from the side
will help to emphasise texture and
also create shadows that can add
depth to your shot.
The shorter the distance between your light

source and subject, the softer the light will be.
Moving the light closer will make it broader
and create a more subtle effect (although
bear in mind it will be brighter). Moving it
further away will create a narrow light source
for deeper shadows and contrast.
2: Size matters
A broad light source, such as a

large, bright window, will create
softer light, as the rays will hit your
subject from more directions to fill
in shadows and reduce contrast. If
you want harder light that increases
shadows and texture, use a direct,
narrow source such as a desk lamp.
4: Background lighting
Placing your light source close to

your subject will produce a greater
falloff of light in the background,
making it dark. Moving the light
source further away will mean your
subject and backdrop are kept
relatively bright.
subject looks in your photographs. It can a

be little daunting knowing where to start when
creating your lighting setup, but here are a few
secrets to help you on your way to producing
beautifully lit photos.
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Lighting your
subject from
the side will
emphasise
texture and
create shadows
to add depth
Move your subject or light

source to control how
your shot is lit. The angle,
distance and size of the
light can all have an effect
5: Reflect the light
Using a matte surface to bounce

light back into the shadows will also
diffuse the light for a softer effect. A
shiny reflector will focus the light into
a narrower area, so it will therefore
be a little stronger and harsher.
6: Adjust the lights strength
It may seem obvious, but it is important to remember that the further away
your light source, the dimmer the light hitting your subjects will be. For brighter
lighting, move it closer or introduce an additional light source to the scene.
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Natural light
Make the most of natural light and use the sun to your advantage
atural lighting is of course the only

source of light for daytime landscape
shots, but it is also useful for lots of
other types of photography. It can still come
with its own set of problems though, as both the
time of day and weather can affect the look of
your photos. Knowing when to shoot will help you
achieve the best results, but you can still produce
fantastic outdoor images at any point in the day.

There are a few simple tricks for making the most
of different lighting conditions, and although you
cant control the position of the sun, moving your
subject or your own position could mean the
difference between producing a good shot and
a great one. Read our guide on the right to learn
how to make the most of natural light.
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1: The time of day
Just after sunrise and just before sunset are the

best times of day to shoot outdoors. At this time,
the sun is low in the sky so it will create a softer,
warmer light and project longer shadows across
your scene for more depth and contrast.
2: Use the shade
The midday sun is positioned directly overhead

and so could cause your shots to look a little flat.
The light can also be very bright and harsh at this
time, leaving your portrait subjects squinting and
overexposed. If this is the case, move into the
shade for softer and more even light.
3: Cloudy skies
Dont ignore overcast days, as clouds can help

to diffuse the light from the sun for a softer and
more even coverage of light. Slow your shutter
speed down if your shots are coming out a little
underexposed.
4: Backlit subjects
If the sun is positioned behind your subject,

it will leave them in shadow. To combat this,
use a reflector to bounce the light back into
the dark areas. Alternatively, leave your subject
underexposed to create a striking silhouette.
5: Combat lens flare
Shooting into the sun will create lens flare. This

can give your shots a dreamy look, but if you want
a more natural effect, use a lens hood or shade
your lens with your hand to prevent it.
Use Mother Natures light for

well-lit shots outdoors. Here
weve chosen the golden
hour for a warm effect.
6: Low-light shooting
As the natural light fades, you will need to adjust

your exposure to prevent dark shots. Use a wider
aperture (smaller f-number) or slow down your
shutter speed and use a tripod. Only raise your
ISO as a last resort.
When shooting at sunrise or sunset, use a tripod and shutter priority mode set to
around 1/10sec or slower to ensure enough light is let in
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You cant control

the sun, but moving
your subject could
mean the difference
between having a
good shot and a
great one
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Using flash
Fire the flash to illuminate your subject
hen there just isnt enough light

available for your shot, your
cameras flash is there to help.
Its a great tool for shooting in low-light and
indoor situations, such as taking portraits
at parties and events. However, that bright
burst of light from your camera can sometimes
have an unwanted and unflattering effect, so
knowing the best flash mode to use is vital for
if you want to create natural-looking photos.
Its also important to remember that your flash
isnt just for illuminating your shots in low light,
as it can also come in useful for preventing
underexposed daytime images too. Read on to
discover how to master your flash and combat
some of the common problems it can create.
Switch to slow-sync flash
Flash isn't just for

low-light shooting
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Firing your flash in low light can cause

your subject to appear well lit, but leave
their surroundings shrouded in darkness.
To illuminate both the foreground and
background of your shot, use slow-sync flash
to team your flash with a slow shutter speed
to let in more light.
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Knowing the best

flash mode to use
is vital if you want
to create natural
looking photos
Use fill-in flash
If your subject is backlit, it can mean

that when you take a shot the backdrop
of your shot is well lit, but the subject is
underexposed. Switching on your flash
will fill in the shadows to ensure your
entire shot is lit from front to back.
Unflattering flash
When flash is fired at your subjects dilated pupils in the dark, the light
reflects off of their retina to make the pupils appear red. It can also create
unwanted highlights and make skin appear shiny.
Combat red-eye
Red-eye is a common problem caused by using flash in low light. To prevent

it, use your cameras red-eye reduction flash mode, which fires a pre-flash
that causes your subjects pupils to contract.
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Tricks
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82
Creative
photography
projects
90 Create a lens flare
92 Capture shallow depth of field
96 Make buildings stand out
Create unique photographs

with these fun photo projects
and expert techniques
98 Create a vintage-effect photo

102 Build a photo collage panograph
106 Create dramatic portraits
108 Shoot silhouettes
110 Create a levitation effect
114 Shoot a zoom burst
116 Shoot dramatic smoke trails
120 Create photos with light painting
122 Shoot a time-lapse journal
126 Get creative with miniature still life
128 Capture a vertical panorama
89
132 Create a
home studio
114
Shoot
standout
images
Produce stunning shots
in-camera with our
masterclass projects
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It's fun to
experiment!
Shoot creatively
and then edit in
Photoshop for
amazing effects
110
TOP TIPS
Light painting
Vintage effects
Set up a home
studio
Zoom bursts
120
122
Creative
projects
Take your
photos to
new levels
126
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Creative
photography
projects
Practise your skills using these ideas for amazing photos
hen youre starting out in photography, the

most important thing you can do is practise.
It may seem really obvious, but getting out
with your camera and experimenting is the quickest
way to learn techniques and master your new kit. Rather
than let yourself get bored shooting the same old things
day after day, though, we have some great ideas here
to inspire you. Weve got plenty of fun projects that you
can do in your home on a rainy day, such as creating art
out of incense and some really interesting macro shots.
If youd rather get outside with your camera, weve got
plenty to suit you too, from creating a HDR landscape to
playing with shadows.
With these simple projects, you will learn just what
your camera is capable of while practising essential
skills you can apply to other genres. And whats more,

youll get some truly standout images along the way to
show off to friends and family. Try out your own creative
ideas too, and let your imagination run wild.
Getting out with

your camera and
experimenting is the
quickest way to learn
techniques
Top tips for creative photography

Consider framing
Think about colour
Add creative filters
Light the shot
Select a backdrop
Tweak your shots
Try various angles and reposition the

subject to get the strongest shot. Also
consider whether it looks best
in portrait or landscape orientation.
Lighting is fundamental for any photo.
Try positioning subjects near natural
window light, or use your flash or a
reflector to fill in any harsh shadows.
Using a vibrant subject can help to

add impact to your shot, but try not to
overuse colour stick to three colour
tones for the best impact.
Make sure the background isnt
distracting. You want the attention to
be on your subject, so use coloured
card or even a bed sheet hung up.
Most cameras now come with filters

such as fish-eye, miniature, sepia or
cross-process. Try using these arty
effects to make your shot stand out.
Most shots need editing, but you can
also apply creative effects too. Get
some great ideas from tutorials on
www.photoforbeginners.com.
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Action images
Shoot quickly
Burst mode lets you take a series of images
quickly, improving your odds of getting the
dice at the height you want them.
Freeze motion by using a fast shutter speed
Freeze it
Keep on trying!
Use a fast shutter speed (over

1/200sec) to freeze the action.
Slow it down if you want to show
some movement blur.
High-speed shots are often trial

and error, so keep experimenting
until you get the right positioning.
Use flash
Firing your flash can help
to freeze movement in
shots like this. Try putting
a piece of tracing paper in
front of it if its too harsh.
Perfect exposure
You may have to set a lower
f-number when using a
fast shutter speed to let in
enough light.
Keep it sharp
Using Continuous AF mode will
help to keep the moving subject
as sharp as possible
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Fun shadows
Capture shadow shots on sunny days
Bright, sunny skies offer plenty of great photo opportunities.

Get creative with the sunlight by shooting the shadows it
casts. You can create unique shadow shots like this using
a brightly coloured prop such as an umbrella. You will need
to position your model to face the direction of the sun and
then shade them using the umbrella. Ask your model to pose
so that the shadow has a clearer definition. To ensure that
you can fit the scene within the frame, shoot in landscape
orientation. You will need to focus on the umbrella and set
a narrow aperture (around f11) and fast shutter speed (over
1/125sec) to prevent the image from overexposing.
Great macro
Take a rare look at macro subjects
Set your camera on a tripod and place a
glass vase on a piece of white paper. Set up
a background with coloured card or even a
colourful scarf. Fill the vase with tonic water
(for bubbles) and place in a cherry. Use a
desk lamp from a safe distance or an external
flashgun, slightly raised (try placing it on a
stack of books) but lighting the cherry. Make
sure your focus is on the cherry rather than
the glass and use a wide aperture (low
f-number) to throw the background out of
focus. Macro mode or a macro lens will
help you to get in even closer to
your subject.
Creative
portraits
Use props to take unique people pics
To capture this creative portrait, set your camera on a tripod at
eye-level with your model. Using string or colourful ribbon, attach
an empty frame to a nearby branch and lower it down so that you
can see through it to your subject. Be sure that there is enough
light so you can shoot without flash, as flash will blow the detail of
the frame. Set your camera to Aperture Priority and f8, zoom in so
that the frame fills the edge of your view, then set your focus on
the model and not the background or frame.
The increasing number of

waterproof cameras and cases
available has opened up a host
of new opportunities, allowing
you to take photos from a new
perspective underwater.
Capture your family as they
splash around the pool on
holiday or try photographing an
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object submerged in a bath for

a unique still life shot. You
could try taking a photo of an
object at water level, capturing
it half-submerged so you can
see the distortion from the
water. Hold it in the liquid, so
that water line is halfway up
the lens and take a shot.
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Light painting
Paint pictures in low light using a torch, tripod and your camera
To paint with light, you either need to shoot
outside at night or in a dark room. Its best to
use a tripod to keep the camera steady. Set
your tripod up and attach your camera. Make
sure its secure and set it to Timer mode, so
you can be in the right place at the right time.

Now set your camera to Shutter Priority and
lower the shutter speed to at least 10sec and
make sure your ISO is low to avoid noise
appearing. Now press the shutter to start
the timer, jump into place and start drawing

your picture with the torch, being sure to keep
moving so you dont appear in the frame. It is
often easier to draw around people or objects
as a guide, like we have here.
Perspectives
Motion blur
It can be lots of fun to play

with perspective. For effective
results, youll need to work in
a wide, open space. If youre
placing a model in the frame,
get them to stand as far back
as possible to give the illusion
that theyre a smaller size. You
can then introduce objects or
hands around the side of the
The easiest way to convey

movement in your photo is
to use a long exposure. This
means using a long shutter
speed to blur the subject, but
keeping everything else in
focus by using a tripod. By
keeping the camera steady,
you can ensure that stationary
elements are sharp.
Get fun images by changing perspective
Use shutter speed for special effects
image at a closer proximity to

the lens, so that they will appear
larger when compared to the
model. Give your model clear
instructions to pose so that it
appears as though they are
interacting with the object or
hands. Experiment and practise
to capture both subjects in the
correct alignment.
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Then switch to Shutter

Priority on the mode dial and
set it to around 5sec, steadily
increasing the time until youre
happy with the results. You
may need to use a neutral
density (ND) filter to absorb
light, reducing the amount of
light coming into the lens and
to help avoid overexposure.
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Selective colouring
How to make your subject stand
out from the scene
The selective colour technique is a clever

way of drawing the eye to a particular part of
a picture. It works by converting the image
to black and white, and then restoring colour
to the subject so that it leaps off the frame.
Some cameras offer this as a creative filter, and
although this is the easiest way of achieving the
effect, the results can be much more accurate
when you do it yourself. For the best results,
choose a photograph with a colourful focal
point, such as a bunch of flowers.
Weve used some fruit and
free editing software GIMP
to create the effect.
Using layer masks
A guide to selectively colouring shots in GIMP
1: Drain the colour
Open your image then save it under another

name. Go to Layers>Duplicate Layer, then select
Desaturate from the Colors menu.
2: Add a layer mask
Go to Layer>Mask>Add Layer Mask and opt for

White (full opacity). Select the mask thumbnail
and paint with a black brush to reveal colour.
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3: Flatten the image
Finally, select Image>Flatten Image to merge

all the layers into one. Then save the image
(File>Save) and export it with File>Export.
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Retro shots
Create an old-fashioned photo
Vintage is currently on trend, and not
just in regards to clothing but in
photography too, with vintageinspired camera designs and
filter effects to transform your
shots into old-fashioned
works of art. To create your
own retro image, check your
cameras shooting modes.
You may find a sepia or
filter effect that you can apply
instantly. Alternatively, use tools in
Photoshop such as Hue/Saturation
and the Add Noise filter. Reduce
saturation first and then increase the
yellow hue for a sepia effect.
Bokeh
Blur light for fun images

Place your cup on a small table,
about two metres from the wall
behind it. Light it with a desk lamp
or external flash gun positioned
about a metre to the left of the
camera and above it.
Hang black cloth on the wall
and suspend fairy lights from
the top. Put your camera on a
tripod and manually focus on the
cup. Using a wide aperture (low
f-number), the background lights
should be blown out of focus
to create this lovely effect. Then
position the cup so it looks like the
lights are steam coming from it!
Themed
portraits
Take a creative approach to portraiture

There are plenty of great ways
to get creative with portraits.
Using a theme will not only give
you a brief to work towards, but
it will also enable you to include
more elements within the frame
in the way of props and styling.
Selecting a distinctive character
from a book or a favourite film is
a great way to start.
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Youll need to get hands-on

with posing your model using
props for this, and consider the
location of the shoot carefully
as it will be dependant on the
character youre photographing.
You can also ask your subject
to change their expressions
to convey different emotions,
reflecting the character.
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HDR vistas
Learn to get perfect results in tricky lighting

If you look at a sunrise or sunset
scene, youll see a full range of tones,
including detail in the darkest parts
of the land and the brightest parts of
the sky. However, camera sensors
are unable to record the same range
of tones, so will under or overexpose
certain areas. The solution is to take
three (or more) identically-framed
pictures at different exposures:

at, under and below the cameras
metered exposure. This is known as
bracketing. To make it easy, many
cameras have an auto-bracketing
facility. You then use software like
Photoshop Elements or Photomatix to
merge the pictures into one image that
contains the full range of tones.
Before
Without using HDR, detail is lost in the shadow areas. If we were to

expose for the shadows instead, the sky would be blown out
HDR from start to finish
How to set up, shoot and edit HDR
Set Aperture Priority and pick a high f-number. Set

Exposure Bracketing in the menu and move the
dial until the lines are under the 1.
2: Use a tripod
Keep the camera steady, as change between

shots causes ghosting. Take three shots (the
camera will take three different exposures).
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3: Merge the shots
Open the shots in your software and find the

Merge to HDR option, which combines them.
Use sliders to adjust contrast and highlights.
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Zoom burst
Experiment with your zoom for vibrant still-life shots

A zoom burst adds focus to a central point,
and blurs the outside in a creative way. Select
a brightly coloured subject that is stationary.
Switch your camera dial to Shutter Priority
mode and set a shutter speed of around 1sec.
This should give you just enough time to zoom

out while the shutter is open to capture the
effect. Frame the subject by zooming in so
that it fills the image. Now focus the camera on
the centre of the subject. Position your hand
A simple setup in your home

can produce some striking
images that look great
as a canvas
on the lens around the zoom ring and once

youre ready, release the shutter. As soon as
the shutter opens, rotate the zoom ring anticlockwise to zoom out and capture an effective
zoom burst result.
Smoke art
Capture striking abstract images

A great project to try at home is shooting
smoke trails. Its easy to do, and all you
really need is some incense sticks and
some black card. It can take a bit of
trial and error, but youll have a lot of fun
experimenting. Heres how its done
1: Set up the project
Place an incense stick on a table in front of a

piece of black card so that any smoke will be
easily visible (with a bit of distance in between).
Set up in front of a bright window so the light hits
the smoke from behind.
The ideal settings are a low ISO, a fast shutter

speed such as 1/250sec, and a high f-number,
but you may have to experiment. Turn off your
flash and use Burst mode for the best chance of
a great shot.
3: Get started
It is important to keep your camera steady on

a tripod or hard surface such as another table.
Manually focus on the end of the incense, light
it, turn off the lights and start shooting! Use your
hands to fan the smoke.
4: Edit the shots
Open your best shot in editing software and crop

out the incense stick or clone it out. Open the
Levels tool and move the sliders in towards the
edge of the graph. Play around with the Hue slider
to change the colour.
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Create a lens flare

Add light and atmosphere to your images with a simple but inspiring lens flare
Before
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ens flares have always been somewhat of an artistic effect,

created as light scatters through the lens until it reacts with the
sensor in a flurry of circular halos. This is a simple technique that
requires only one extra layer in Photoshop. When using filters such as the
Lens Flare, you need to work in such a way thats not going to damage
the original image.
For this technique involving Photoshops dedicated Lens Flare
filter, look towards the non-destructive power of Smart Filters. Smart
Filters enable us to go back to settings later on, without them applied
permanently to the image. Once a Smart Filter has been added to your
Layers palette, controlling the opacity of the Filter is easily done. At 100%
Opacity, this lens flare is quite overpowering, so you would generally
reduce its opacity until you find an effect that works for your image.
The Lens Flare filter caters for different lenses that you may be using.
This lets you match the lens flare to your focal length. You can specify the
style of flare depending on the lens or subject, or just what looks best.
Here youll learn how to apply the lens flare to your image and create a
believable look that appears like it was created naturally in-camera.
1: Set up the image
2: Select Lens Type
3: Position lens flare
4: Adjust flare brightness
5: Change blend mode
6: Apply Smart Filter
Load up the Lens Flare filter by going to the Filter

menu and down to the Render options. First, get
an idea of where to place the lens flare in your
image. You can then go back and re-apply the
filter non-destructively later on.
Once in place, go ahead and boost the Amount

slider to see how intense you want the flare to be.
The more this slider is increased the less visible
the surrounding details in your image become.
Set this Brightness to 140% for a good balance
and hit OK.
There are a number of types of flares to choose.

Each one imitates a different camera lens and will
suit different types of images. For this image, the
50-300m Zoom looked most natural, but this can
change depending on your photo and lens.
This lens flare is only a tester to make sure the

effect is in the place where its needed. At the
moment its been applied destructively, but we
want to protect the original image. So press Cmd/
Ctrl+Z to undo and then add a blank layer and set
its blend mode to Screen.
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Placement of the lens flare is important. This

can be done with the preview window above
Lens Type, by dragging the crosshairs. Keep the
Brightness setting low at 10% while you do this, so
youre able to see the crosshairs on the window.
Fill this layer with black (Edit>Fill) and then go to

Filter>Convert for Smart Filters. With this layer set
up, go back into the Filter menu and click on the
top option Lens Flare. This will call up the filter
once more, but just hit OK to apply the settings as
chosen earlier.
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Capture shallow depth of field
Learn how to create a unique landscape with a shallow depth of field
Foreground interest
A shallow depth of field
draws attention to the
main foreground subject.
In this case, it is a bright
and colourful poppy
facing the camera.
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he lens aperture is one of the three settings

(along with shutter speed and ISO) that control
exposure, as it determines how much light falls
on the sensor. However, it also has an effect on the
creative look of the image because it controls the depth
of field too the zone of sharpness either side of the
point of focus. The principle is quite simple: the smaller
the aperture, the greater the depth of field.
While that bit is straightforward, a little confusion is
caused by the way apertures are measured in f-stops.
Shoot!
As these numbers get bigger, the aperture gets smaller,

eg f4 is a large aperture and f22 is a small aperture.
Normally, portraits are shot with wide apertures and a
narrow depth of field, while landscapes are most often
shot with small apertures and an extensive depth of
field. However, this is not a hard and fast rule, and in the
right circumstances, using a narrow depth of field can
really add impact to a landscape.
Follow our guide to shooting scenery with a shallow
depth of field, for a shot that stands out from the crowd.
Info . . .
What youll need:
Digital camera
Lens with a wide
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Tripod
Editing software
Capture an eye-catching landscape
1: Choose a location
2: Compose your shot
3: Set to Aperture Priority
4: Focus on the foreground
5: Review the image
6: Adjust the exposure
Youll need an interesting foreground, ideally one

where there is a single strong focal point. Even
though it will be out of focus, the background is
also important. Look for something that provides
enough interest, but without distracting features.
Focus on the part of the foreground you want to

be sharp. If you have Live View, zoom in, and in
Manual Focus mode, turn the focusing ring until
the image is sharp. Otherwise, use Autofocus and
select the AF point on the part you want in focus.
Use a tripod this allows you to make small

adjustments to framing and will result in a better
composition. Arrange the key elements in the shot
according to the rule of thirds. If your camera has
gridlines, turn these on to help you compose.
Take the shot and use Image Review to check the

focus and exposure. The histogram will show if
your exposure is correct or not. If its bunched too
far to the left, the shot is underexposed and if its
too far to the right, the shot is overexposed.
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6KRRWLQJLQ$SHUWXUH3ULRULW\PRGH$RU$YLV

the best choice for landscapes, as you select the
aperture, which controls the depth of field. The
camera will set the shutter speed for you. Choose
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If it is under or overexposed, apply Exposure

Compensation and re-shoot. This usually involves
holding down the +/- button and turning the
dial. Add positive compensation to brighten and
negative to darken. Check your histogram again.
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Ways to print and display
Edit!
1: Mount on aluminium
1: Remove the colour cast
2: Boost the colours
3: Correct the exposure
4: Adjust the curves
5: Add a gradient
6: Adjust the gradient
A great way to show off your shots in style is to

mount them onto aluminium and hang them on
your wall. www.photobox.co.uk lets you order
aluminium prints in a variety of shapes and sizes,
including rectangular, square and panoramic.
Enhance your landscape shot in Photoshop Elements
If your photo has an unusual colour cast, or if

you think it could be a little warmer or cooler,
go to Filter>Adjustments>Photo Filter. Select a
Warming or Cooling Filter, and then adjust the
Density slider until you are happy.
To make the colours in your shot a bit brighter, go

to Enhance>Adjust Color>Adjust Hue/Saturation.
Boost the Saturation slider until the colours look
how you want them to, but avoid pushing it too far
as your photo will look unnatural and cartoon-like.
2: Create acrylic paints
You can get your photo printed and placed

behind a layer of acrylic for a high-quality,
glossy finish that makes your photo appear
as though it is floating on your wall. www.
whiteWall.co.uk has an excellent range of
acrylic printing options.
You can brighten up or darken your shot by

going to Enhance>Adjust Lighting>Levels. Use
the Color Picker tool to correct automatically, or
adjust the arrows under the histogram. Moving
them right will darken it, and moving them left will
brighten it.
Go to Enhance>Adjust Color>Adjust Color

Curves and choose Increase Midtones in
the Select a Style menu. Boost the Midtone
Brightness and Midtone Contrast, then adjust
Highlights and Shadows until your image has
plenty of depth in the foreground.
3: Print on foam board
A cheap yet attractive way to display your

photos is on foam board two thin plastic
boards with a layer of rigid foam in between.
Your prints will be incredibly light and have a
lovely silk matte look. www.pixum.co.uk offers
forex prints in plenty of different sizes.
In the Layers palette, click the Add New Fill Layer

button. Select Gradient from the drop-down menu
and in the Gradient Fill box, set the Style to Linear,
the Angle to -90 degrees, and the Scale to 100%.
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Double-click on the Gradient menu in the Gradient

Fill box to open up the Gradient Editor. Adjust the
colour of your gradient and the Color and Opacity
sliders to change its look. Click OK.
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Share! Create a canvas print to display at home with PhotoBox
1: Choose your print service
You can share your shallow depth of field

landscape photo in a number of ways, such as
online or by framing it to go on your wall. We have
chosen to turn our shot into a canvas print, using
www.photobox.co.uk.
2: Select a canvas style
Click on the Canvas tab at the top of the home

page to see the variety of canvas prints on offer.
Each has a different thickness of frame and is
printed on a different material. Select the one that
suits your budget and click Create Canvas.
3: Change the shape and size
Now choose a rectangular, square or panoramic

canvas and pick the size you want it to be.
Consider the shape of your photo, the space
available on your wall and how much money you
wish to spend. Then click Create Canvas Now.
Consider the
wrap
Leave enough space
around the edge of
your photo so that the
important areas are
not lost.
4: Upload your photo
Upload your photo and you will see it displayed

on a virtual canvas print. You can change the
orientation of your canvas and select whether you
would like the image to wrap around the edges, or
display the photo with a white border.
Special place
You could choose a
location that is personal
to you, helping you to
create a really special
canvas print.
Bright colours
A scene with bold and
bright colours will really
stand out, and add
interest to a blank wall.
5: Edit your print
Click on your photo for a new menu to zoom in or

out and rotate your photo, or open up the Photo
Editing menu to adjust contrast and brightness,
flip the photo or add effects. Then click Order.
Avoid clashes
Make sure that the
colours in your photo
will not clash with
the colour scheme
of your room.
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Make buildings stand out

Shoot architecture at its best
Info . . .
What youll need:
A digital camera
Architecture
Use a wide angle

Zoom out to a wider focal setting on your camera
to frame the whole building in your shot. Watch out
for lens distortion at extreme wide angles, though.
Compose your shot

Think about using the rule of thirds when
composing. Place the main focal point
of the building off-centre and place the
horizon a third of the way up or down.
Our settings
Aperture: f18 ISO: 200
Shutter speed: 1/160sec
Time it right
The time of day can have a big
effect on images, as midday sun
can cast shadows across buildings.
Early in the morning is best, and
less people will be about too.
Shooting speeds
Make sure you experiment with shooting architecture from different angles. Get
down low and move around the building to get shots from interesting perspectives
If youre shooting handheld, keep

your shutter speed above 1/60sec
to avoid camera shake. Using a
tripod will let you slow down the
speed to let in more light.
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Capture the
foreground
Dont just shoot the
building, include a
bit of the foreground
too. This will add
some context to the
shot so the viewer
can see where it
was taken, and it
will help guide them
to the main subject.
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Straighten the horizon

Keep your shots straight,
otherwise the building will
look wonky. You can use
your cameras gridlines to
help you keep the horizon
level, or rest your camera on
a tripod or flat surface to get
it straight.
Take your time

Scout out the building
before you start pressing
the shutter to find out what
its most interesting factor
is it might be completely
different from another side!
Find a vantage point

Try and find a location to
set up your shot where
passersby arent going to
get in the shot. You may
need to be patient and wait
for people to move!
Correct the exposure

If youre finding that your
shots are coming out too
bright or too dark, use
exposure compensation.
Move up to +1 or +2 EV
to brighten your shot, or
move down to -1 or -2EV to
darken it.
Lower the ISO

Try and keep your ISO as
low as possible to keep
noise out. If you need extra
light then slow down your
shutter speed and use a
tripod instead.
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WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Create a vintage-effect photo
Capture a stunning vista and give it a nostalgic feel
Before
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
etro photography is very popular at the

moment, thanks to the vintage filters of apps
like Instagram and the nostalgic look of Lomo
images. Lomography is a movement that started in the
early Nineties after the founders discovered the unique
photos produced by toy film cameras. Lomo photos tend
to feature unusual colours, with a soft focus and dark
vignettes where the colour falls away at the edges of the
frame, which makes them look particularly retro.
However, the good news is that you dont need a
Lomo camera to achieve this fantastic effect, as it can
Shoot!
easily be re-created using image-editing software. Almost

any photo can be given the Lomography treatment,
from portraits to still life and landscapes. It is important
to make sure that the most important part of your image
is positioned in the centre of the frame, otherwise it
will become obscured when you add the vignette.
This easy-to-follow tutorial will show you how to take a
great landscape shot that is perfect for a retro makeover,
then give it the Lomo look in Photoshop Elements 11, and
finally post it onto Pinterest to share with the world. Well
also suggest the best subjects for the retro effect.
Info . . .
What youll need:
A digital camera
Editing software
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Take a beautiful landscape photo
1: Choose your aperture
2: Keep it clear
3: Use a scene mode
4: Zoom out
5: Use the gridlines
6: Steady your shot
Set your camera to Aperture Priority mode and

then select a narrow aperture (high f-number).
This will ensure that everything in your photo is
in focus so that you can take control of the soft
focus blur in post-production later.
To fit everything into the frame and leave enough

space at the edges for the vignette, use the
shortest focal length that your camera or lens has.
This will involve zooming right out or twisting your
lens so that it is set to the smallest number.
Set your cameras ISO as low as possible,

preferably at 100 or 200. This will prevent you from
taking noisy images, keeping your shots clear with
lots of detail. Slow down your shutter speed or
widen your aperture if your shots are too dark.
If your camera has gridlines, then use them to

help you compose your shot. The grid will help
you to keep your horizon straight and position it
a third or two thirds of the way up as well as get
your main focal point in the centre square.
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If you are having trouble getting your settings

right, you can always use a Landscape scene
mode. Your camera will choose the settings for
you so you can focus on composing the shot. It
will often capture more vibrant blues and greens.
As you are using a narrow aperture, you may

need to select a slow shutter speed to let enough
light into the lens. Use a tripod or rest your camera
or elbows on a steady surface to reduce camera
shake when the shutter is open for a while.
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3 of the best retro

photo subjects
1: Architecture
Beautiful old buildings and bridges make

perfect retro photo subjects as the final
photograph will look as though it could have
been taken years ago.
2: Portraits
The soft focus look is very flattering for

portraits. To complete the retro look, you could
get your model to wear vintage clothes for a
timeless photo.
3: Still life
Try to find retro-looking objects around your

house and position them in a simple setting for
an old-school still-life shot.
Edit!
Create the Lomo effect for a vintage photo
1: Add a vignette
2: Adjust the vignette
3: Change the levels
4: Alter the hue
5: Soften the focus
6: Bring back the detail
Open your photo and click on the Create a New

Adjustment Layer icon at the top of the Layers
palette. Select Gradient and choose Foreground
to Transparent from the drop-down menu or
double-click to open up the Gradient Editor.
Select the background layer and then go to

Enhance>Adjust Lighting>Levels. Individually
adjust the levels of each colour channel, bringing
out the reds and greens in particular. Tick the
Preview box to view the results as you experiment.
Select the background layer again and go to

Layer>Duplicate Layer. Now click on the new layer
youve just created and go to Filter>Blur>Lens
Blur. Your entire shot is now slightly out of focus,
but well bring out the important lost detail next.
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In the Gradient Fill box, change the Style to Radial

and tick Reverse. Now adjust the scale to change
the strength of the vignette. Choosing a high
percentage will create a subtle vignette, while a
small percentage will blacken the frames edges.
Now go to Enhance>Adjust Color>Adjust Hue/

Saturation and move the Hue slider to further
adjust the colours in your shot, trying to keep
within the blue and green sections of the slider.
Again, tick the Preview box and experiment.
On the same layer, click on the Layer Mask icon in

the Layers palette. Select the Brush tool from the
toolbar, change the colour to black and adjust the
brush size as you see fit. Now brush over the main
focal point of your shot to bring it back into focus.
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Share!
Upload your photo as a pin on Pinterest
1: Sign up
Go to www.pinterest.com. If you already have

a Pinterest account then log in. If you dont, you
can join Pinterest by signing up with your email
address or sign in with your Facebook or Twitter
accounts, if you already have them.
2: Invite your friends
On the homepage, click your profile at the top

and select Invite Friends from the menu. Type in
your friends email addresses or find them through
email or Facebook. If they create or already have
an account, they can then see your pins.
Consider noise
Weve chosen a low ISO to
keep everything clear, but
you could use a high ISO
to add noise for an even
older look.
3: Create a board
Click Add+ at the top of the homepage, and

then Create a Board. A board will let you group
your pins together, so give it a name and select a
board category. Decide if you want it to be private
or allow others to add pins to your board too.
Centre the subject
Colour
Make sure you keep your

main subject in the centre
of the frame so its not
covered by the vignette.
Look for bright colours,

as dull colours will appear
even more washed out
when you add the effect.
4: Pin your photo
Back on the homepage, click Add+ again and

select Upload a Pin. Select your photo from your
computer and then select the board you have just
created from the drop-down menu. Now you can
add a description to explain your photo.
5: Tag your pin
If you want a particular Pinterest follower to see

your shot, type an @ symbol in the description
box and type their name. It should then appear in
a drop-down menu for you to select. Now pin your
photo and tick to share on Facebook and Twitter.
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WorldMags.net
Build a photo collage panograph

Discover how to shoot and stitch photos to create an impressive panograph image
Info . . .
What youll need:
Camera with manual
settings
Wide-angle lens
Any image editing
software that has
layer functionality
anoramas are intended to capture

a much bigger and better view of a
scene than your average shot can.
These days they dont require specialist
kit to photograph either, as many new
smartphones and beginner to enthusiastlevel cameras come with built-in panorama
shooting modes. Using these modes
in-camera, youll be able to capture a full
180-degree view of a scene, which the
camera will automatically stitch together for
you, eliminating the need to learn difficult
editing techniques for a seamless finish.
Although these modes are fantastic
for instant results, they can take some
of the fun and the challenge away from
shooting and creating a panorama.
Images dont always have to be seamless
to be successful; editing your frames

together using a little creative flare can
offer some impressive final results too.
A panograph is a great example of a
hands-on and fun approach to capturing
a panorama. In this easy-to-follow tutorial,
well be showing you exactly how to shoot,
edit and share a panograph for yourself. You
dont need expensive kit or a special shooting
mode either; the same results are guaranteed
with a basic point-and-shoot. Weve
used Adobe Photoshop to construct our
panograph, but you could also use Adobe
Elements or other image editing software.
Follow along with us as we break it down
into simple steps for you. Youll be capturing,
creating and sharing your own panograph in
no time at all!
Shoot! Capture multiple images in-camera to create a panograph
1: Select a scene
Start by choosing an interesting scene to shoot.

If this is your first attempt at a panograph, opt for
something simple that doesnt feature too many
vertical lines. Switch the camera mode dial to
Aperture Priority mode (A or Av) before you begin.
2: Set your aperture
Select a high f-number, which represents a narrow

aperture. This will ensure that each individual
photo appears in focus corner to corner; that way
you wont end up with one focus point and a soft
background effect in all of your images.
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3: Ensure sharp results
As youre using Aperture Priority mode, the

camera will determine the correct shutter speed
for each shot so that they all appear evenly
exposed. Itll need to be above 1/60sec when
shooting handheld, though, to avoid shaky shots.
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Glued to the spot

Avoid moving your
feet when shooting
a panograph. Rotate
your hips to capture
a 180-degree view.
Dont forget to shoot
up and down too.
4: Make adjustments
The shutter speed might be too slow to shoot

handheld, so increase your ISO setting, which in
turn will speed up the shutter. ISO determines how
sensitive your camera is to light; higher ISOs result
in brighter shots, but look out for noise.
5: Set your focus
Ensure that your camera and lens is switched to

autofocus, as this will help to guarantee pin-sharp
results in all your shots. You now need to position
your focus point in the centre of the frame and half
press the shutter before you fully press to shoot.
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6: Start shooting
Shoot landscape and take the middle panograph

photo first. Dont change your position; just adjust
the angle of the camera to shoot images to the
left, right, up and down. Aim to include a portion
of the last image you took in each frame.
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The best Photoshop tools
1: Free transform
You can use the Free Transform tool in

Photoshop to resize and rotate individual
frames, to ensure that your panograph fits
together seamlessly.
2: Hue/Saturation
Increase the colour vibrancy in your finished

panograph using the Hue/Saturation tool so
that its eye-catching and stands out from the
rest when posted on social media.
3: Brightness and Contrast
A bit of a boost to the brightness and contrast

will add more depth to your final image, as it
will punch up the colour tones and enhance
the shadows.
Edit! Construct your panograph collage in Photoshop
1: Prepare the files
2: Create a canvas
3: Add your images
4: Build the layers
5: Adjust the layers
6: Finishing touches
Save all of the shots for your panograph onto your

computer. Now open Photoshop and load the
images individually. To create a panograph, youll
need to create a blank canvas in which to layer
the shots together. Go to File>New to create one.
You can now add your images onto the canvas.

Start by opening the image that will appear in the
centre. Select the Move tool and drag the photo
on, then go to Edit>Free Transform and hold
down the Shift key as you resize the shot.
You may need to adjust the layers so that the

central image is on top. To do this, select a layer
with the Move tool and drag it up to the top of the
Layers panel. Experiment and use the Preview
icon next to the layer to see which order the layers
work best in.
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In the New canvas dialog box, select International

Paper from the Preset drop-down menu. You can
now select A3 or larger from the size options. Set
the resolution to around 300 pixels/inch and opt
for a colour, transparent or white background.
Continue to add the other photos to the canvas.

Layers will begin to build up in the Layers panel.
Place them all in a rough order initially and set the
Opacity of each to around 50% so that you can
align the images correctly as they overlap.
Once youve finished, you can make final

adjustments to the opacity of each layer. Flatten
them via Layers>Flatten Image and select a
rough edged paintbrush with the foreground set
to white. Paint the edges for an artsy effect and
then save your shot.
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Share! Upload and share your panograph online with friends
1: Select your sharing site
Once youve saved your panograph, you can

upload it to social media or gallery websites like
Flickr. Go to www.flickr.com to take you to the
main homepage. Sign in, or if you dont already
have an existing account, opt to create one.
2: Begin to upload
Select the Upload tab, click Choose Photos and

Videos and then browse to your panograph. Now
fill in the details found on the upload page. Start
by adding a caption that shares some information
on when and how it was taken.
3: Add tags
Make your panograph easy to find when

searching by adding tags. Use keywords that
relate to the shot to do this. You can also tag
people in the shot by typing and selecting their
name in the Add People section.
Sharp results
Layer opacity
Quick adjustments
Use the correct aperture and

focus settings when taking
each panograph shot, so
that the end result appears
sharp and seamless.
Your panograph will be

more effective if select layers
have a lower opacity so you
can see the edge of each
frame used to build it.
Increase the colour vibrancy

using the Hue/Saturation
tool in Photoshop to ensure
your final panograph stands
out from the rest.
4: Create a set
Create a Set that you can add future panographs

to. Set a title for the album and a brief description
of what youll find in it. Then adjust Owner Settings
to determine who can see your image and hit the
Upload tag to post it on your profile page.
Get creative
with layering
5: Share with others
Once your image has uploaded, go to your

Photostream and select a method for sharing the
shot. You can send a link to the page via email or
click on one of the sharing icons that will enable
you to post the image onto Facebook, Twitter,
Pinterest and Tumblr.
Try experimenting
with the Layers
panel when you
are overlapping the
frames to achieve
creative effects.
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Create dramatic portraits

Emphasise form and add drama
Info . . .
What youll need:
A digital camera
A dimly lit room
A light source
Catchlights
Try moving your model so the light
falls into their eyes this is called a
catchlight. If you cant change where
the light falls, try using a reflector to
bounce some back in.
Choose a light source

These shots need a single light source. You
could use natural light though a window, a
desk lamp, or a street lamp. Position your
subject so the light hits them at an angle for
a dramatic effect.
Get the right exposure

If your shot is too dark, even when using
a wide aperture, try raising your ISO. Just
watch out for digital grain if it is too high.
Also, try experimenting with exposure
compensation to adjust the brightness.
Some cameras come with a dedicated

low-key scene mode, which will select
the correct settings for you
Use burst mode

To avoid capturing your model
blinking and to get the best chance
of capturing a genuine expression,
set your camera to burst mode. This
will fire off multiple shots at once.
Find a suitable location

Low-key shots are dimly lit, so you need
to find a dark location. This can be a dark
room with a dark curtain as a backdrop, you
could prop up a large piece of black card
behind your model, or shoot at night.
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WorldMags.net
Capture emotion
Keep talking to your model
and popping your head out
from behind the camera
to get them to relax. Try
and make them laugh to
capture true smiles.
Consider the angle

Portraits generally arent
very flattering from low
angles, as this accentuates
nostrils and chins. Try
shooting front-on or from a
slightly raised position.
Focus on your subjects eyes using selective focus, or you could

do it manually or use face priority focusing
Our settings
Aperture: f4.5 ISO: 1600
No flash
Remember to turn off your cameras flash,
as the shot should only have one light
source. You could use the flash as your light
source, but it works better if the light hits
your subject from the side.
Select Aperture Priority mode and a low

f-number to let enough light into your
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Compose for effect
Typically, subjects will look at the camera for

a portrait, which can be particularly dramatic
in a low-key shot. But dont be afraid to
experiment, as breaking eye contact can
create a lovely candid photo.
Zoom on in
Zoom in slightly as a wide
angle can cause distorted
features. A focal length of
around 80-100mm is best,
so take a step back if you
need to and zoom in.
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WorldMags.net
Shoot silhouettes
Underexpose your subjects to show just a hint of them

Use bold shapes
Info . . .
Use a subject with a bold and interesting

shape that will still be easily identifiable as
a silhouette. When photographing people,
shoot them in profile or get them to pull a
striking pose.
What youll need:

A digital camera
A single light source
A subject
Position the light

To create a silhouette photo, your light
source must be behind your subject.
Perhaps take the shot when the sun is low
in the sky, or shoot from a low angle so
that your subject is blocking the sun.
Make sure you turn off your ash, otherwise it could re and illuminate your
subject from the front, lessening your chances of a well-dened silhouette
Our settings
Aperture: f11 ISO: 800
Use a narrow
aperture (high
f-number) to
ensure that your
subject is in focus
while youre
metering off the
background
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Simple backdrop
To make sure that your silhouetted
subject really stands out, keep
the background of your shot as
plain as possible so there are no
distractions. A blue sky or colourful
sunset works best.
Separate your subjects

If you are shooting more than one subject,
make sure you position them apart with a bit
of space in-between. If they overlap, you may
not be able to tell what each subject is.
Shoot in Auto
Trick your camera into exposing
for the background by pointing it
towards the light and half-pressing
the shutter. Keep holding it down
and then compose your photo
before pressing it fully.
Darken your silhouette

If you are shooting in a semi-manual mode
and your silhouette is not as dark as you
would like, use exposure compensation
and dial it down to -1 or -2 to underexpose
your subject even more.
Switch to Spot Metering mode and half-press the shutter

while pointing your camera at the sky before shooting
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Before
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Create a levitation effect
Shoot and edit a dream-like levitation shot using camera techniques and Photoshop
t first glance levitation photographs seem to

require a good level of editing experience
and hours of free time, but provided youve
got competent camera skills, some Photoshop
ability and plenty of imagination, they can be pretty
straightforward to create. The key is to capture as
much of the effect in-camera as you can. To do this,
youll need a good-quality camera and a sturdy stool
or step ladder, which will enable you to photograph
your model in situ. By photographing your model on
location, youll be able to ensure that the focus, lighting
and colour balance match accurately with the rest of the
scene, which is something you cant always guarantee
if youre photographing your model separately with the

intent to create a composite during the editing stage.
Once youve captured your posed model in-camera,
youll also need to shoot the landscape you can use
this image later to accurately edit out and replace the
step ladder, using Photoshop layers and layer masks.
Once youre ready to begin editing, work with layers
and adjustment tools to bring the scene together and
create a convincing levitation image. You can add to
the dream-like narrative by creating a retro camera filter
effect too. Adjust the tonal range for intentional colour
casts and create a sweet spot of focus to finish up. To
help you get the same results, follow our simple tutorial.
1: Set up your shot
2: Use shutter priority
3: Stay in focus
4: Burst mode
5: Change perspective
6: Frame the shot
Select your location and set up your equipment.

Once youve got the step ladder in place, position
your model within the frame. Be clear with
directions and offer suggestions for poses. Wait
until they are posed before handing over the prop.
Working outside, against the wind, and with a

balancing model means you may need to use
your cameras burst mode setting. Switch to a low
continuous burst mode to ensure high-res images
and then release the shutter when youre ready.
Shoot using your Shutter Priority mode. This is

particularly important if your model is having to
balance on something or if its a windy day, as
youll be able to use a fast shutter to freeze motion
while the camera takes care of the rest.
Once your camera settings are in place, get

into position. Shoot from a low angle in order to
reinforce the levitation effect in your photos. This
perspective will look a lot more convincing when
youve finished editing your image.
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Switch your camera to auto focus mode to ensure

the model appears sharp and in focus. Place your
single AF point over the models face so that the
camera does not hunt to find focus in other areas
of the image while youre shooting.
Position the model centrally within the frame and

if possible, get their feet above the horizon line.
Always ensure theres a strong enough shadow
on the ground to create a convincing levitation
effect later. Photograph the landscape separately..
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7: Align the layers
8: Add a layer mask
9: Remove the ladder
10: Correct the shadow
11: Clone out
12: Merge visible layers
Open your start image in Photoshop alongside

the straightforward landscape shot of the scene.
Using the move tool, drag the landscape shot
over the start image and align them. Lower the
layer opacity to ensure it overlays correctly.
Once youve removed the ladder, youll need

to remove its shadow. Remember to retain the
models shadow however, to ensure the levitation
looks convincing. Select the clone stamp and
work with a soft-edge brush with a high opacity.
13: Add solid colour
Add an inversed layer mask to the landscape layer

and select the Paintbrush tool with the foreground
colour set to white with a high opacity. Click
on the layer mask and zoom into your image.
Use the brush to slowly paint out the ladder.
Hold down the Alt key and select an area that

is clear of the shadow. Move the brush over the
area you want to replace and slowly begin to paint
it out. Be careful not to remove too much of the
shadow so dont remove the models shadow too.
Select a yellow/green tone from the colour picker dialog box and click OK.
Select the layer mask next to the block of colour in the layers palette and
select Darken from the options. Reduce the layers opacity to around 26%.
Zoom in close to areas where the model and

ladder meet, use a smaller brush to accurately
paint out the ladder. If you make a mistake, switch
the foreground colour to black in order to correct.
Switch back to white to continue editing.
Zoom out and check the ladder has been

removed. Merge all visible layers without flattening
the image by holding down Cmd+Alt+Shift+E.
Now add a retro filter: select Solid Color from the
adjustment menu in the Layers palette.
14: Blend tones together
Repeat the last step but this time select a blue colour hue in the colour picker
dialog box and opt for Lighten as your layer blending mode. Adjust the layer
opacity in the same way as before until happy with the blending results.
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WorldMags.net
15: Complete retro colour effect
16: Add a vignette
17: Create a blur
18: Add a sweet spot
19: Brighten up
20: Flatten layers
Repeat the last step again but now opt for a creamy pink hue with a low
layer opacity and lighten blending mode. Before you continue on to the next
step, merge all of the visible layers again using Cmd+Alt+Shift+E.
To create a retro sweet spot effect youll need to add a blur to your image.
Go to filter>Blur>Gaussian blur. Increase the radius to around 3.7 pixels.
Add a layer mask to the blur layer and set your foreground colour to black.
To enhance the summery, dreamy effect, youll need to brighten it all up.
Merge all of the visible layers via Cmd+Alt+Shift+E and then select Screen
from the layer blending mode options. Reduce the layer opacity here too.
Now select Gradient from the adjustment menu and set your foreground
colour to black. In the dialog box select a Radial style and click Reverse with
the Scale set to around 176%. Reduce the layer opacity if necessary.
Select the Gradient tool with a foreground-to-transparent setting, Radial type

with 100% opacity. Place the cursor on the models face and pull out to a
desired width to remove blur from the area, creating a focused sweet spot.
Before you flatten your image, save your shot as a Photoshop file (.psd), to
enable you to retain all of the layers for further editing in future. Now flatten all
of the layers via Layer>Flatten Image and save your image as a JPEG.
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WorldMags.net
Shoot a zoom burst

Learn how to set up and capture
creative zoom bursts in your shots
Info . . .
What youll need:
A camera with
manual settings and
a zooming lens
A tripod
The subject
Your main subject can be anything or anyone
at all, just make sure it is placed in the centre
of the frame so that you can keep it in focus
while the zoom burst explodes around it.
The surroundings
Place some colourful objects or a
colourful setting around your subject. The
surroundings will be the eye-catching part
of the zoom burst, so make sure they are as
colourful as possible for the best results.
Composition
To capture as much zoom blur as possible,
make sure your main subject is centrally
placed. The blur will then act as lead-in
lines, drawing the viewers eyes to your main
subject and point of focused interest.
Our settings
Add some flash

You can add an extra bit of
creativity by adding flash.
If your camera has a slow
sync mode, set this and
youll combine a sharp
shot with the blurred one.
Experiment
Zoom bursts can be a
case of trial and error, but
youll soon perfect the
technique. Take the shot
then review it on the LCD,
looking for nice blurring.
As you are using a slow shutter speed, secure your camera on a tripod
to prevent any unwanted blur appearing in your image
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WorldMags.net
Focal range
The best results will
come from using a
camera with a lens that
has an adequate focal
range and a wide-angle
to mid-zoom range.
This will allow for a large
amount of the scene to
be captured.
Taking the shot

To take the shot, press
down the shutter and
zoom swiftly in while it is
open. Start at the widest
focal point and zoom the
entire focal range.
Keep it smooth
When you are zooming in, make sure you
keep the movement even and smooth
as you do it. Try and keep at the same
speed throughout the movement and try
and stop at the end of the exposure.
Focus it
To make sure the centre stays in focus, select
centre-weighted focusing or manually select
the focus point in the centre. This will keep
your subject sharp, just blurring the edges.
This shot is created by zooming while the shutter is open, so set your
camera to shutter priority and select a slow shutter speed of 1 to 4sec
Tweak the settings

If your shot is too bright,
use a narrower aperture
or ND filter. Use a faster
shutter speed if needed
you can get okay results at
1/8sec if you zoom quickly.
ISO settings
If you are shooting in
low light, you may need
to boost your ISO for a
brighter image. Dont turn
it up too high, though, as
noise may start to creep in.
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Shoot dramatic smoke trails

Use a simple home setup to create smoke trail images that you can hang on your wall
Before
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hotography in general is a great way to

get out and about, explore new places and try
something new. However, when the weather is
less than great or youre simply looking for things to
try within your own home, your photographic creativity
can sometimes hit a wall. With this in mind, we have
put together this fun project that anyone can do in the
confines and comfort of their own homes.
Smoke from any source can make for a very intriguing
photographic subject, as ultimately no two photos will
ever be the same. Capturing images of smoke can,
however, throw up a number of problems, as it is often

almost completely colourless. But taking fantastic
photographs of smoke isnt actually that tricky, and
the practice also allows you the freedom to get very
creative with what you can produce. Although smoke
is quite unpredictable in its movement, you can try
using your hands or kitchen utensil to disturb the
smoke trails and create some interesting patterns.
Getting the best results from smoke photography can
take some time, but follow this simple project and you can
turn the smoke from an incense stick into a work of art.
Info . . .
What youll need:
Digital camera
Black cloth
Incense stick
Tape
Matches
Shoot! A simple setup is often the best
1: Use natural light
2: Put up a background
3: Set up the incense
4: Turn the flash off
6: Steady your camera
On-board flash isnt great for smoke photography,

so we used natural light. Place the setup close to
a bright window and ensure enough light is hitting
the smoke. Lighting the smoke from behind will
allow it to look separated from the background.
Most cameras will now see the dark background

and instantly want to fire the flash to brighten up
the scene. However, the flash will ruin the effect
we are going for. Ensure your flash is turned off for
the shot and allow the camera to do the rest.
We need to pick the best background for the

smoke to really stand out. Putting up black cloth,
a sheet of A3 black card or finding a dark wall will
allow the backlit smoke to be seen. You can even
pin up or an old black T-shirt as a background.
You may need to experiment with settings until

you get the result youre happy with. Ensure your
lighting is correct, allowing the smoke to show up
easily, and then shoot. Try Continuous Drive mode
for the best possible chance of a great image.
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Set up the incense stick in front of the black

background; the further away from the
background the better. Once the incense is lit,
focus on the end of the stick as your camera will
struggle to maintain any focus on the smoke itself.
Keeping your camera steady is very important;

the smoke can move quickly, so the slightest
movement of your camera will cause it to blur. If
you havent got a tripod, try resting your camera
on a steady surface like a stool.
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Create smoke trails on

your smartphone
Edit! Turn your shot into a masterpiece with Photoshop
If you only have a cameraphone, this whole

project can be done in the palm of your hand.
Just make sure you are close to your subject
and you take time editing your shot, ready for
the print.
1: Crop in
2: Clone
3: Tweak the Levels
4: Create a colour layer
5: Paint the smoke
6: Multiple colours
Chances are your final shot is going to be a little

wider than youd hoped. A simple crop in will
focus all of the attention on the smoke trails and
will remove anything unwanted. Dont worry about
the incense stick; this is removed in the next step.
To really bring the smoke out from the

background you need to brighten it up. This can
be done in a number of ways, but the simplest
is to open Levels and slide the right-hand arrow
inwards to the edge of the line graph.
The incense stick in the shot ruins the illusion we

are trying to create. In the same way, cutting off
the bottom of the smoke trail isnt ideal. Select
the Clone tool, choose any area of the black
background and brush over the incense stick.
If you like what youve got so far, you

can just leave it like that. However, adding a little
bit of colour can give it a whole new look. The first
thing youll need to do is create a new layer. In
doing this, ensure the mode is set to Color.
1: Shoot
Make sure youve turned your flash off and

are focusing on the incense stick. If you can,
try using a faster shutter speed to freeze the
smoke trails.
2: Edit
There are lots of editing apps for smartphones.

We used ArtStudio to edit out the incense stick
and add a bit of colour to our smoke trails.
3: Share
We used Jessops Print Shop app, which

allows you to carry out adjustments and print
directly from your phone in a number of sizes.
Use the colour palette to select a colour and

simply brush over the areas you wish to paint. If
youd like to take control over how the colour looks
you can adjust the opacity of the layer, making the
colour less striking but it will look more natural.
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For our final shot we decided to use multiple

colours. To do this, you can create a new layer
like before for each different colour you use. This
will allow you to blend them easier as well as have
more control over the way your final shoot looks.
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Share! Get your shot printed for all to see
1: Choose your service
There are lots of online services that provide a

range of printing options. For this canvas, we
chose to use Jessops. Its website offers lots of
different printing styles in a range of sizes. Visit
www.jessops.com for the full list of services.
2: Select canvas size
There are a number of different sizes and shapes

to choose from, so be sure you have measured
up before you continue. Once youre happy with
your choice, click on the Order button below your
selection to continue to the next step.
3: Upload a photo
Youll be presented with a blank canvas thats

ready for your photo. Click Upload to bring up
a separate window, enabling you to browse your
computer and select the image you want. Once
uploaded, drag the image onto the blank canvas.
A canvas print is
perfect for your
smoke trails
4: Edit the canvas
Clicking on the canvas will allow you to edit the

layout of your image. From this window you can
zoom in or out of the photo, reposition it and
rotate it on the canvas. Once youre happy with
the look of your print, simply click OK.
5: Preview and order
Once you move through to the order stage, you

will see a preview of your canvas. Take note of
the four edges of your photo, as it is these parts
that will be wrapped around the canvas. Be sure
nothing you want in the shot is in these areas.
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Create photos with light painting

Draw with torchlight and slow shutter speeds
Info . . .
What youll need:
Camera with manual
mode
Tripod
Torch
Choose the location

Avoid brightly lit areas, as darker
environments allow for longer shutter
speeds and more time for creativity. Also
avoid areas with clutter, as you will be
moving around in the darkness.
Use a torch
To paint with light youll need a torch.
Use lights with standard bulbs or LEDs
and begin by using just one or two. For a
touch of flair, cover the torch in coloured
acetate or sweet wrappers to add colour.
As well as a tripod,
you can use a
remote trigger.
These are both
essential to ensure
images are free
from camera
shake
Start off simple

To draw with light, youll need to move the
torch around in front of the camera as the
shutter is open. Try something easy to
begin with, like a smiley face, so that its
easier to correct if you go wrong.
Use a tripod
At such long exposures,
you must use a tripod
to avoid getting a blurry
shot. Try setting it on a
firm surface if possible.
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Manually focus
Illuminate the scene where
you will draw, switch to
manual focus and use the
focus ring on the lens until
the area you are painting
is sharp.
Our settings
Shutter speed: 77sec
Use a lens hood

Attaching a hood to the
end of your lens will help
to avoid lens flare. This
occurs when you stray too
close to the end of the lens
with the torch light.
Go manual
Select an aperture between f5.6-8 and an
ISO from 50-200. Select a slow enough
shutter speed to give you time to paint or
use Bulb mode to tell the camera exactly
when to open and close the shutter.
Be a ghost
Stand still for long enough and the sensor
will capture you. As you paint, slowly
move your body to keep it from being fully
exposed. If parts of you appear in the end
result, dont worry it adds to the charm.
Dimmable torch
Using a torch that you can
dim will help you to adjust
the strength of the light you
are using on different areas
of the frame, helping to
create more depth.
Work with other light
Keep all of your

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and evenly paced.
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body moves, the
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Combine your torch light

with ambient light such as
the moon or city lights, as
this will add some mood to
the shot as well as make it
look natural.
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Shoot a time-lapse journal
Track progress with photos on your cameraphone or tablet
Watch things grow

We documented the growth
of our chilli plant, but you
can create a journal about
any subject that changes in
some way over time.
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hotography not only allows us to preserve a

precious and possibly fleeting moment, it can
also help us to see how things grow or change
over time. Creating a photo journal is a great way to
document the progression of something or someone
over several days, weeks, months or even years.
Whether you want to record your children or pets as
they grow, or track an ongoing project such as a home
renovation or personal weight loss effort, taking photos
at regular intervals will help to demonstrate the change.
As your cameraphone is always with you, it is a
great tool for creating your photo journal. You can set
1: Make an album
Once you have downloaded the Photo Journal

app, open it up and select Add Photo Journal at
the top of the screen. Give your photo journal a
name and then select the orientation of the images
you would like to take: portrait or landscape.
4: Focus on your subject
Once framed, you then need to focus on your

subject. Simply tap where it appears on the
screen to set the focus point. If shooting a portrait,
set the focus point over your subjects eyes; the
most important part of the shot.
notifications to remind you to take each shot, and there

are some great apps available to lend you a helping
hand. We recommend Photo Journal App: Once
Daily 365, which is available for iPhone or iPad for
1.49/$1.99 from the App Store. As well as allowing you
to set reminders, it also lets you turn your images into
a time-lapse movie that you can share with others. In
this project, we used the app to document the growth
of a chilli plant, but you can follow along with whatever
subject you like! Read the simple steps below to find out
how. Start by taking a before shot to help to show how
much your subject has changed.
Info . . .
What youll need:
A cameraphone or
tablet
A changing subject
to photograph
2: Compose your shot
3: Find a light source
5: Set a reminder
6: Take the next photo
Now set up the first shot in your photo diary. It is

important to keep your photos consistent, so find
an uncluttered space and remove any distracting
objects. Perhaps set up a piece of coloured card
as a backdrop that you can use for every photo.
Once you have taken your first shot, you can set a
notification to remind you to take the next one. Tap
the Spanner button at the top of the screen and
choose how often you want to be reminded and
at what time, for example, weekly at 5pm.
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If you can, try to make use of natural light

by placing your subject near a window, or
photograph outdoors. If this is not possible, then
either set up a desk lamp to light your shot, or turn
on your devices flash to illuminate your subject.
When it is time to take your next photo, position

your subject in the same place as before and
repeat Steps 3 and 4. Try to use the same lighting
technique for each photo, otherwise it will look
different and appear odd next to the other shots.
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3 of the best photo subjects
1: Children
Kids grow up fast, so why not document their

childhood to preserve your precious memories
of them as they grow? You could use
milestones, such as birthdays, or take a photo
everyday to really show them grow.
2: Pets
Track your beloved pet as they develop from

being a playful puppy or kitten to a fully grown
dog or cat. Getting your pets to stay still to
capture your shots might be a challenge but
worth persevering.
3: Yourself
Take self-portraits to see how much you

change over several months or years. This is
also good for documenting weight loss! Youll
be surprised by the small changes that you
wouldnt usually notice.
7: Align your shots
8: Crop and resize
9: Rearrange your photos
10: Set the playback speed
11: Edit elsewhere
12: Import your shots
Tap on an image in your photo journal, then select

the Align function in the bottom left-hand corner.
An imprint of the previous photo will appear over
the top so that you can drag your image to realign
it so that it fits in with the sequence.
On your photo journal home screen you can drag

your shots around to change the sequence order.
You may prefer to display them in reverse order to
create the illusion of turning back time, or simply
switch a few around to mix things up.
To make further edits to your photos, like boosting

the colours or adding creative filter effects, tap the
Export button. Tapping the Image button will then
copy your individual photos back to your Camera
Roll so that you can edit them using other apps.
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Pinching the screen lets you zoom in or out of

your photo to crop in to your subject or make
the photo smaller. Tap the Gridlines button in the
bottom right-hand corner of the screen to help
you recompose or straighten your shot.
Tap the Spanner button at the top of the screen to

select the speed at which your photo sequence
will play. You could display each photo for just 0.3
seconds to create a speedy time-lapse film, or
select five seconds to play a slower video.
Once you have edited your photos, transfer them

back into the Photo Journal app by tapping the
Plus button and selecting the Album option. When
you have imported your shots, you will need to
delete the old ones from your photo sequence.
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13: Export your photos
Once you have created your photo journal, there

are a number of ways to share it. If you would like
to share your shots as individual images, tap the
Export button and choose the Image option. This
will copy your shots to your Camera Roll.
14: Export as a video
Tapping the Export button and selecting Video

will save your photo journal to your device as a
time-lapse video. You can then keep it for yourself,
or share it in any way you like, such as on a social
networking site or simply on your phone or tablet.
15: Share on YouTube
The Share button on the Photo Journal app gives

you three sharing options. The first lets you post
your time-lapse video straight to YouTube. Just tap
the YouTube icon and log in to your account, then
follow the steps to post your video.
Use a guide
Handy functions
The Guide button brings up

an imprint of the previous
shot, so you can line up
your current shot with it.
Going back to the home screen gives

you plenty of options for editing and
sharing your time-lapse photo journal.
16: Post to Facebook
Capture the detail

Make sure you capture
every stage of your subjects
progression so that your
photo journal is complete.
Great composition
The second sharing option lets you share your

photo journal video on Facebook. Once you have
tapped the Facebook icon, click Connect to log
in to your account and follow the instructions to
share it with your friends.
You can use the gridlines

to help you position your
subject in the shot, for a
smooth time lapse and a
pleasing composition.
17: Email your video
Finally, you can choose to send your video to

friends and family via email. Tap the Email icon
and type the email addresses of people you wish
to send it to. The video will be included as an
attachment that they can download and view.
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WorldMags.net
Get creative with miniature still life
Learn how to play with perspective and get fun, creative photos of miniature models
dd a little miniature madness into your shots by

taking a fun and fresh approach to photography. Its
not only entertaining to do but its also something the
whole family can get involved in, especially when it comes to
thinking up new ideas or even constructing small scenes.
Once youre ready to shoot, this tutorial will help to ensure
you get the photo right in-camera. Follow our five simple
steps below and youll discover exactly what exposure
settings and shooting modes are essential. Youll not only
learn how to get sharp and in-focus results by adjusting your
single AF point in camera, but well even show you how to

use your cameras Aperture Priority mode effectively. Discover
how aperture can be used to blur out the background of your
images using a shallow depth of field effect, which will help
to increase focus on the miniature model within the frame.
Well also cover the importance of perspective, so youll find
out how changing the position youre shooting from can
completely alter the way an image is interpreted. Expect to
get low to shoot from new angles and zoom up close for a
little more magnification.
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Info . . .
What youll need:
DSLR
Tripod (optional)
Filters (optional)
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Get creative Compose and shoot your miniature scenes
Alternative miniature ideas
1: Compose the
scene
Before you begin shooting

youll need to plan your
photo and place your
models in the scene. When
positioning your models
in the frame, keep in mind
what you want to show in
the background and what
perspective youll need to
shoot from to frame it.
2: Select a shooting mode
To ensure your miniature model stands out, youll

need to use a wide aperture setting. Rotate your
mode dial to Aperture Priority and set a wide
aperture between f1.8-5.6. This setting will blur out
the background so that the model appears sharp.
4: Zoom in
If youre working with a zoom lens, rotate the ring

around the lens to zoom in close to your subject
so they appear much larger within the frame.
Using a large focal length on your lens will also
compress the background so it appears closer to
the model.
1: Reading time
Get inspired by whats around you and use

it within the background of the frame. Think
about adding miniature props to strengthen
the narrative too. The model here is reading a
homemade newspaper, which reflects
the bookshelf in the background.
3: Choose autofocus
Set your cameras focus setting to single-AF

mode. When composing your image, move the
autofocus point over the miniature model so the
camera focuses only in this area. Press the shutter
button down halfway to focus before shooting.
5: Play with perspective
Once youve composed your scene and set the

exposure and focusing modes, its time to shoot.
Look through the viewfinder and alter the position
youre shooting from to get the best perspective.
Experiment and take shots from various angles to
see what works best.
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2: Focus point
By adjusting your aperture and the perspective

you shoot from, youll be able to include a lot
more within the frame. Using a wide aperture
in this image has ensured the focus is on the
postman while the letterbox and letter are softly
out of focus but still visible.
3: Keep it simple
You dont have to include a lot in the frame.

Keep it simple and experiment with ideas first;
you can build up your scenes gradually. This
model has been placed against a well-known
road sign for shopping. The fact that shes
holding her purse only adds to the narrative.
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Capture a vertical panorama
We show you how panoramas arent just for landscapes

Turn a traditional landscape
panorama on its side for a
standout piece of photography.
Make a bespoke piece of

artwork for your home.
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WorldMags.net
anoramas are extremely wide-angle images,

generally consisting of a number of shots
compiled together to complete the single
wide-angle photo. Panoramas are therefore ideal for
landscape scenes that are too vast to get into a single
shot. However, they can also be used to simply elongate
the perspective of the scene.
Often its not only landscapes that are difficult to fit
into a single frame. Even with the some of the widest
cameras and lenses, its still tricky to squeeze everything
you want to capture into one single shot.
Commonly, interior images require very-wide
angles of view, due to having restricted space
Shoot!
in which to stand and having few choices of

composition. Utilising a panorama technique is
therefore one of the best ways to include an entire
interior scene within one single photograph.
Although panoramas are usually kept horizontal,
switching the orientation to vertical allows you to take the
simple technique to new locations and capture some
truly unique shots. Striking and ornate interiors such
as those that can be found in churches and cathedrals
will usually have interest at both eye level all the way
through to the ceiling above. This type of beautiful
interior architecture makes them the perfect subjects for
experimenting with shooting vertical panoramas.
Info . . .
What youll need:
Digital camera
Tripod
Editing software
Shoot vertically for a unique perspective
1: Use your scene modes
3: Single point autofocus
4: Shoot wide
5: Set up a tripod
6: Take your shots
Many cameras come with a panorama mode.

This guides you through taking a succession of
images for a finished panorama. If you dont have
this mode, you can take a succession of shots
and stitch them together in editing software.
Although not always necessary, selecting a wide

focal length allows you to get the most of the
scene in the shot as possible. Stitching shots
together for a panorama also lets you overlap
images, so you can include more than you need.
If your camera doesnt have a built-in panorama

mode, try and take control of the settings. Switch
to Aperture Priority and select an aperture of
around f11. This will give a large-enough depth of
field to have most of the interior in focus.
A tripod is a key accessory for capturing

panoramas. It will help to keep the camera still in
less-than-perfect lighting conditions, and ensures
you keep the camera in the same position and
allows you to smoothly move between each shot.
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Adjusting your AF setting is important, as you

want the focus to be the same for each shot.
Choose a single point AF to stop the camera from
focusing while you recompose, and allowing you
to choose the best part of the scene to focus on.
Start at the top or bottom of your scene and focus

in the centre of the frame. Take your first shot, then
tilt the camera slightly to shoot the next. Repeat
these steps to capture the entire view. Turn the
page to see how to stitch them together.
Edit!
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Create a panorama with Elements Photomerge
1: Open your images
2: Panorama Photomerge
3: Address the edges
4: Crop to fit
5: Rotate
6: Merge and finish
Once you finished shooting, youll need to open the images up in Elements.
With each of the images open its easy to see whether they all match colourwise, as well as see if any of them require any simple adjustments.
With the auto mode selected, the resulting panorama will have uneven
edges. Elements offers a function to fill in the edges of the canvas, however
this can often look unnatural. Select No to manually tidy the edges.
Youll now need to rotate the panorama clockwise. Simply go to Image>

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final inspection to ensure there are no errors within the merged images.
Elements has a built-in panorama feature that stitches images together for
you. Using this feature you can select all of the images you have open, and
change the type of panorama to create. For this panorama we selected Auto.
A simple crop will clean up the uneven edges of the image and finish it off.
Select the crop tool and draw the selection. Keep it within the image on all
edges to ensure you dont end up with unused canvas space.
When youre happy with the panorama, merge all of the individual layers
together to make one single image. Hit Layer>Merge Visible. With this done
you can carry out any adjustments to the entire panorama, or simply save it.
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Share!
Print your image on a panorama canvas
1: Select your service
2: Canvas size
3: Insert your image
4: Edit your canvas
There are lots of services available both online

and in store for printing your shots. We are using
Jessops, who offer canvas prints designed for
panoramas that come in a range of sizes. Head
over to www.jessops.com.
Using the section to the left of the canvas, you

can quickly and easily upload your image to the
Jessops website. Then, simply drag and drop the
image from the left-hand side onto the canvas to
see it automatically fit to the size you have chosen.
There is a huge selection of canvas sizes available

from Jessops so you can pick the one that best
suits your shot. The three panorama sizes are
20x60cm, 30x60cm and 40x120cm. Simply click
on Change Size to bring up the list of options.
With your image now on the canvas, click on it

to open up the canvas editor. Within this window
you can change the size of the image within the
canvas, as well as reposition it to fit. Check the
over-run areas of the canvas and align the edges.
Go large!
Services such as Jessops let you
turn your panorama into a longer
canvas than the norm.
Be considerate
Many churches and cathedrals can have

restrictions on using tripods, so dont be
afraid to boost your ISO to ensure you get
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5: Preview and order
The final stage will see a preview window open up

for you to have a final check. Its a good idea to
ensure no key areas of the image are in the edges
of the canvas, as these will be stretched around
the wood frame, and will therefore not be visible.
Adjust exposure
If your camera switches exposures for

each shot, switch to manual to lock the
exposure. In auto, point the camera
towards the lightest parts then pick a
setting in between the two in manual.
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WorldMags.net
Create a
home studio
Home cheats for better photos on a budget
Fix shadow on a
subjects face
If you only have one light source for your shoot, such as a
window or a desk lamp, then the parts of your subject that are
furthest from it may be in shadow. You could combat this by
buying a reflector to bounce the light back into the shadowy areas.
However, if youre on a budget, then a fancy piece of kit isnt the
only thing that will work. A piece of white card can perform just as
well and is a fraction of the price.
Hold your piece of white card close to your subject, but make
sure it is not visible in the frame. Then angle it so that it reflects the
light back into the shadows to brighten up your scene. To enhance
the effect you can also cover the card in tin foil, although you
should be aware that this may produce a harsher light.
The position of the light

casts a rather harsh
shadow across the
models face, which is
unflattering and causes a
loss of detail in the image.
Before
The card reflects the light
back towards the model
and fills in the shadows.
It provides a much more
even and flattering look.
Using a home-made
reflector can work just
as well as a real one
to fill in shadows.
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Soften harsh light from your cameras flash

Using your cameras flash is crucial if
youre shooting in low light or need to
fill in shadows in your image. However,
sometimes the light produced by your
flash can be harsh and unflattering for
your subject. To soften the light you need
to diffuse your flash, which will create a
more even coverage of light. You could
buy a diffuser to fit over your cameras
flash, however there are some cheaper
alternatives that you can make yourself
using objects you are likely to have at home
or can easily buy in the shops with your
loose change.
With a few simple materials
there are plenty of ways
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1: Use a milk bottle
Recycle an empty milk carton by

using it as a diffuser. Thoroughly wash
and dry it out first. Then cut the top off
using a pair of scissors. Place it over
your cameras flash to diffuse the light
and create a more flattering image.
2: Use tracing paper
Place a piece of tracing paper in front

of your cameras flash to soften the
light. If you have a pop-up flash then
hold the tracing paper in place, but
if you have a flashgun use an elastic
band to fasten it over your flash.
3: Use bubble wrap
Fastening a piece of bubble wrap

over your cameras flash is the
least effective method, but it is very
portable as you can just slot a small
square of bubble wrap into your
camera bag.
4: Bounce your flash
Bouncing your flash off the ceiling will

also create a softer, more flattering
light. If you have a pop-up flash,
hold a piece of white paper in front
of it to bounce the light. If you have a
flashgun then reposition it to bounce
light off a wall or the ceiling.
Produce a creative
colour cast
A great way to make a dull shot
more interesting is to create
an unusual colour cast over
your image. This is done by
placing colour gels in front of
your cameras flash to change
the colour of the light. Instead of
buying flash gels, place colourful
sweet wrappers in front of the flash
to get a similar effect. This will also
help to soften the light by diffusing
your harsh flash light, and certain
colours of wrapper can produce a
variety of creative effects.
Sweet wrappers can

transform plain
images like this
Before
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Quick Fix Tricks

Create a wind machine
Try pointing a simple desk fan
towards your subject. You may
need to position it closer to your
model as it will be much less
powerful than a professional fan.
Alternatively, hold a hair dryer in
front of them just remember to
make sure it is on the cold setting!
Keep kit dry in the rain

Waterproof covers and even
waterproof cameras are great, but
a budget option is to cover your
camera with a plastic bag. Use
a clear bag so you can see your
viewfinder or LCD, and make sure
it doesnt cover up the lens.
Substitute a tripod
To avoid camera shake,
the best method is to
keep your camera as
steady as possible. You
could use a tripod, but
resting your camera on a
fixed surface, such as a
wall, fence or tree stump
will also do the job. Best
of all, this method is
completely free.
Get rid of distracting backgrounds
It is possible to buy a professional backdrop

for your photos to ensure a distraction-free
background. However, fixing a large sheet of
paper or roll of wallpaper to the wall behind
your subject using sticky tac or masking
tape is a much cheaper option.
Replace expensive lights

Pro lighting setups can be costly but you
dont need to spend out for great photos.
Desk lamps can work just as well if you
position them pointing down at your
subject for a flattering effect.
134 Photography
DSLR Tips, Tricks
Tips,&Tricks
Fixes& Fixes
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Capture appealing
still-life subjects
at home
If you want to get some really flattering results
when youre photographing small items, such
as jewellery or watches, it is a great idea to use
a light tent. These bits of kit are used for product
photography as it allows you to cast an even light
over your subject from all sides as well as give it
an infinity background that looks really stunning.
Professional light tents are available to buy, but
they cost a fair amount of money. By following
our simple steps below, you can make your
own light tent with cheap household items and
still achieve amazing results. All you need is
a cardboard box, some sheets of white paper
(printing paper, thicker card or cloth will do),
masking tape, glue, a cutting ruler and a cutting
knife or some scissors.
This simple setup may take you ten minutes

to make but it gives you perfect, even lighting
for a fraction of the cost of a real light tent
1: Measure out the windows
2: Cut out the windows
3: Cover the outside
4: Line the inside
5: Cover the top
6: Light your tent
Ensure an even light source by cutting out the four

sides of your cardboard box. Flatten your box and
measure out each of the windows. Leave a border
of about 2cm around each window.
Line the inside with white paper. Then hang a piece

of paper from the back of the light tent so that it
curves down towards the front to prevent creases
running through the background of your shots.
Use your scissors or cutting knife to carefully

remove each of the windows. Also remove the
opening flaps on the top to make it completely
open. Then reassemble your box.
Next, cover the top of your light tent using white

paper and some glue or masking tape. This will
stop any light escaping, while leaving only the
open window at the front for you to shoot through.
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Cover the two sides and back panel of your box

with white paper, using glue or masking tape
to secure it in place. Make sure that its evenly
spread around the entire light tent.
With one of the windows left uncovered, place a

desk lamp on either side, so that it points towards
the box. You can also add a third light source to
shine through the top window.
Fixes
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Follow these simple tutorials
to improve and enhance
your problem photos
The essential
guide to editing
138
162 Use levels to improve photos

165 Brighten shadows
166 Reduce noise
167 Brighten up dull skies
168 Enhance sunset skies
170 Improve your landscape photos
174 Correct distracting lens distortion
176 Sharpen up any photo
180 Speed up your editing workflow
184 Master RAW conversion
154
186 Rescue your
146 Recompose problem
old photos
photos in easy steps
150 Simple ways to edit your

portrait photos
154 Fix animal compositions

156 Retouch your underwater photos
158 Fixes to improve close-ups
176
168
Boost
colour
Enhance your
golden
hour photographs
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TOP TIPS
Sharpen photos
Reduce noise
Fix animal
compositions
Edit portraits
Improve
photos
Discover Photoshops most
essential editing tools
162
186
180
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The essential
guide to editing
Use Photoshop to edit and transform your photographs from average to awesome
in the post-production phase of your project
hotoshop is a hugely important part of the photographic

process. More and more photographers now rely on this software
instead of using the traditional on-camera settings. In the postproduction phase you can push your images to the next level and
achieve fantastic creative results that just couldnt be captured on a
camera alone.
Many factors can let down a photo-shoot, be it the weather, poor
equipment or a slightly shaky hand, but all of these flaws can be edited
out and corrected as if they never existed. When using Photoshop you
Before
only need to master a few key techniques to ensure every editing project
looks professional and your images perfect. Once you have these skills
mastered, you can really start to develop and grow as a creative.
Over the next few pages well run through all of the key Photoshop
tools and features that youll soon find yourself unable to live without.
Follow along for how to achieve the best photographic-style effects
such as retro and cross processing, high-key summer lighting, textured
overlays and even how to create polished high-end advertising pieces.
Well also cover all of the key features and tools youll need to get started.
Creative editing
Well show you everything

you need to get creative
in Photoshop for expert
results with your images.
Give it life
This image looks dull

and flat, and in need of
some editing attention.
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Expert images
This shot is now hugely
improved, after just a few
easy tweaks.
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Finding a style
etting your photography work

recognised is vitally important as a
photographer. Developing a unique
and easily recognisable style will ensure
that you get the coverage you deserve, and
mastering Photoshop will help with this.
Building on your Photoshop skills with your
work will allow you to develop a style that you
can easily apply across your entire portfolio.
The style you choose to work with will need
to suit the theme of your images, so dont be
afraid to experiment but also keep in mind what
message youre trying to get across to the
viewer. Your images dont need to look overly
Before
Photoshopped to get great end results. Even

small subtle tweaks like the high-key lighting
effect can really make your portfolio stand out
against the competition.
The key to finding a style is experimentation.
Dont be too constrained, have fun and explore
what Photoshop has to offer. Combining
Adjustment Layers and Layer Blend modes can
produce stunning end results without spending
hours at your computer. Get to grips with the
essential Photoshop functions explored here
and you will realise how many amazing effects
can be created quickly and easily regardless of
your image-editing skill level.
Creative cross-processing
Cross processing is a simple technique to
master, involving increasing the image contrast
and dramatically altering the colour balance.
To do this we will use a Curves Adjustment
Layer (Window>Adjustment>Curves). Click on
the RGB drop-down menu and choose Red.
Click onto the line adding two anchor points,
move these creating an S shape. Repeat for the

Green channel then swap to the Blue channel.
Dont add any anchor points, just move the
top-end downwards and the bottom left anchor
point up enhancing the blues in the shadows.
Play around with these settings then once
happy, set this layers blend mode to Color.
Curves Adjustment
Adjust curves for the red,
green and blue channels
to achieve the crossprocessing effect
Red, Green And Blue

Move the red and green
curves into an S shape and
move the top of the blue
channel line down
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One photo, four distinctly different styles.

Experiment with them all and see what
suits your style of working best. Who
knows, you may discover a Photoshop
trick that transforms your entire portfolio!
Clean and sleek advertising effects
Isolate the object and place it onto a white backdrop with a natural shadow.
Sharpen and then brighten with a Curves Adjustment Layer. To cut out simple
objects, try the Quick Selection and Refine Edge tools. For more complex
objects use the Pen tool. Trace your object and save the Path. Make it an
active selection and lift it from the Background layer. Make the Path an active
selection once more, add a transparent layer underneath and fill the selection
with black. Flip and position the layer, blur then use the Gradient tool on a
Mask to soften.
Create high-key lighting effects
Duplicate the Background layer then hide the top layer. Click onto the original
background layer and add a subtle Gaussian Blur effect. Make both layers
visible once more, add a Mask to the top layer. With a low-opacity, softedged brush, paint away the area around the foreground object showing
the blurred underneath layer, adding a sense of depth. Now add a Curves
Adjustment Layer set to Lighter in the top drop-down menu. If you want to
strengthen the effect, continue to push the line upwards.
Add texture and Layer blends for depth
Duplicate your Background Layer and go to the Layer Blend modes at the
top of the Layers palette. Experiment with the options Multiply and Vivid
Light produce exceptional results, but for this image we have used Color
Burn. Double-click on the top layer once the Blend Mode has been applied
and check the Texture option from the Layer Styles dialog box. We used a
Stucco texture, then on top of the Layers we added a Curves Adjustment
Layer, bringing back some highlights and enriching the texture effect.
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Enhancements
n photography, retouching portraits has

become a crucial step in the process of
enhancing, with the ability to completely
transform a shot. However its easy to over-do
it. The best attitude to have when retouching
an image is that less is more lots of small
adjustments add up to make a big difference!
Professional image retouchers use a careful
combination of Masking, Transforming and
Blending modes in Photoshop to achieve flawlessyet-authentic results. As you begin to enhance your
images, youll soon find yourself becoming familiar
with the Selection, Warp and Layer Mask tools.
The first things to focus on are the skin and hair
regions once youve perfected these key areas,
youll have the ultimate foundation to work from.
The skin is especially important, but synthetic
effects can strangle all realism in your image, and
so excessive skin smoothing isnt encouraged.
Instead, using Channels and a little patience, you
can easily work out those blemishes manually.
The hair region can cause similar headaches, but
once youve mastered the techniques, its easy to
smooth out the strays.
If your shot is still in need of a lift, you can start
to manually apply some cosmetic enhancements
using existing make-up as a marker, to graft
eyelashes, change face-shape and alter eye-colour.
Here, well take you through the best ways to
piece your portrait together for expertly retouched
portraits in minutes.
Before
See how to clean up and

modify images with
Photoshop
Hair fixing with Content-Aware

To get rid of stray hairs, make a selection around
the edge of the model using the Pen tool. Choose
Select>Modify>Feather>5px, then hit Cmd/Ctrl+J to
duplicate your selection into a new layer. Now make a
new selection that extends beyond the fringes of the
models loose hairs, then activate your original model
layer and press Shift+F5, applying
Content-Aware Fill. Use the clone tool
to clean up any strays. Further improve
the look of hair with hair grafting;
using the Lasso tool, select an area of
hair then click Copy, Paste and place
over the blemish. Hit Transform>Warp
to reshape the new hair, and then
integrate the edges with a Layer Mask
to keep it looking natural.
Enhancing the eyes

Adjusting the colour and sharpness of the eyes is
important for creating a unified image. Use the Elliptical
Marquee tool to make a selection and then tweak the Hue/
Saturation sliders. Now use Sharpen>Smart Sharpen to
enhance the eyes.
The eyelashes and eyebrows are essential areas in a
head shot, and so filling these will make for an immaculate
final image. Simply copy and paste eyelashes, reposition
and apply a Darken Blend mode. You can then edit any
noticeable edges using a Layer Mask.
Apply cosmetic enhancements

To enhance modest eye and facial make-up, create
a new layer and set it to Darken Blend mode. Select
a colour by sampling the existing make-up then
activate the Brush tool. In the menu, apply a 10%
Opacity with Multiply Blend mode then begin painting
on top to gently enrich the tones. You can also use
this technique to enhance the lips. Finally, add in a
healthier complexion by applying a Selective Color
Adjustment Layer. Tweak Magenta and Yellow sliders
in the Reds preset for a natural glow.
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Modify face shape

Making subtle changes to the contour of a models
face is relatively simple and can make a big
difference to a portrait. Start by making selections
of the face edges and then modify using either the
Warp option, or Filter> Liquify> Forward Warp
tool. Its best to stick to small adjustments here,
otherwise you might end up with some blurring.
The new Photoshop CS6 Liquify tool brush sizes
are much larger and can manipulate more pixels,
for sharper warping. You can also try straightening
the jaw by copying and pasting a selection of this
into a new layer, then modifying with the Warp
option. Finish up by carefully integrating all edges
with an applied Layer Mask.
Fixing hair strands

To remedy any stray hairs
lurking in your image, carefully
apply the Clone Stamp tool, with
the Blend mode set to Darken
Blend. Zoom in to 200% and
sample from even areas to even
out the strands. However, this is
a time-consuming process and
remember that you can only do
so much.
Skin cleaning with Channels

The real trick to avoiding synthetic-looking portraits with
over-smoothed skin isnt to try and cover up blemishes,
but take them out completely, which takes just a little
more time and attention. Heres how
Open up the Channels palette and pick the channel
that shows the greatest contrast in light value Blue in
this example. Duplicate your Channel then apply levels
to increase the contrast and enhance skin texture. Now
copy and paste this duplicate channel into your layers
palette, then activate your model layer and use the new
Channel layer as a visual guide for editing blemishes.
Using the Clone stamp zoomed in at 200% works
well. Switch the visibility of your Channel on and off to
preview the results.
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Seamless composites
hen youre out on a photoshoot, its

easy to make a mistake. Horizons
may be wonky, lighting not set up
efficiently or the rule of thirds may be forgotten.
But, all of this can be corrected afterwards
in Photoshop. You can even merge and
composite several photos together to get the
ultimate seamless image.
In the mini step-by-step below, we will show
you that you can take the best parts of several
photos and comp them together to achieve
a brilliant, polished final image. No more dull
skies, blurred foregrounds or poor conditions.
Well show you how to take specific sections
within your photos and replace them with new
and improved areas from another photo. Once
the composition has been finalised, and the

best parts of several photos pieced together,
well show you how to blend the different layers,
match up colours and lighting effects before
flattening and saving the final image.
The key to seamless photo blending is to
match up the noise and sharpness levels
and the colour and lighting tones using as
many Adjustment Layers as necessary. The
procedure sounds complex but once you have
mastered it, you will be producing fantastically
creative compositions in no time. For the best
results, start building up your image stock
library, you never know when a sunny holiday
sky or model shot can be used to fix or create
a new scene.
When combining images, ensure that the

sharpness and noise levels match up. If they
dont, try adding an overall effect on top of
all layers to match them up a bit more and
make the blend less noticeable
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Before
This image is pleasant, but lacks creativity

and punch. However, combine it with
elements from other shots and we can
transform the bland into the beautiful
Comp photos together Swap in a sky with these simple steps
1: Open your images
With your main image selected, source all other

elements. In this example we want to add in a
new sky. Open all of the images into Photoshop
and select the Rectangular Marquee tool, draw
over the area of sky you want to place into your
main shot.
Add in some interest

You may not want to replace the
entire sky, just add in a bit more
interest. To do this, simply drag
the new areas onto the canvas,
position and alter the layers
blend modes to suit and then
mask away the layers edges to
blend the images together.
The key to
seamless photo
blending is to
match up the noise
and sharpness
levels and the
colour and lighting
tones using
Adjustment Layers
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2: Cut out and position
Next, drag and drop the selection into your

main image. Resize and then hide this layer
for now. Use the Pen tool to trace along
the horizon line and land area, save the
Path and then make it an active selection.
Lift the selection onto its own layer.
3: Match settings
Make all layers visible and place a Levels

Adjustment Layer on each one. Clip it so it only
affects the layer below. Tweak the settings to
match the two layers colours and brightness,
then match noise settings and add a Curves
Adjustment to the top of the stack.
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Recompose problem
photos in easy steps
Adjust composition to create perfect photos using Elements, Pixlr and apps on your smart device
Crop
The Crop tool in Elements
gives you options for resizing
to a specific size, and also
aids recomposition.
Rotate
Turn your image to a preset

angle or choose your own. You
can even manually drag your
shot to rotate it.
Straighten
Wonky photos can easily be
corrected using the Straighten
tool. Its as simple as drawing
a line across your horizon.
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Flip
Instantly reposition your
subject by flipping the entire
photo vertically or horizontally
to achieve the look you want.
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Straighten & crop
Correct horizons and reposition your subject in Elements 11
Info . . .
Before
What youll need:

Photoshop Elements,
Pixlr Express and
BeFunky, or use
Photoshop CS or
GIMP
1: Straighten instantly
2: Manually straighten
3: Correct the horizon
4: Select a crop style
5: Choose a crop size
6: Crop your shot
Go to Image>Rotate>Straighten Image to instantly

straighten a wonky photo. Elements will then try to
work out where your horizon is and straighten it. It
is quite accurate but will occasionally get it wrong.
To automatically crop your shot, go to

Image>Crop. To do it manually, select the Crop
tool and pick a style for a range of useful grids:
Rule Of Thirds, Grid, Golden Ratio or None.
Click Straighten in the Modify toolbar for three

options: Grow or Shrink to changes image size
without cropping, Remove Background to remove
extra background, and Original Size to rotate.
To crop your shot to a specific size, select a

measurement from the drop-down menu or
input your own height and width, or select No
Restriction to freely create your crop size.
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Select an option, draw a line across the horizon.

When you let go, the horizon will straighten. If you
used Grow, Shrink or Original Size then youll need
to remove the extra background by cropping.
Now drag your cursor over the area of the photo

you wish to keep. When the correct amount of the
image is highlighted, click the green tick in the
bottom right-hand corner to crop it.
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Recompose in Pixlr Express
1: Find your image
Rotate & flip Get a better composition in Elements 11
Before
Open an image in free online editor www.

pixlr.com/express. Click Adjustment and then
select Crop. Pick an aspect ratio to decide the
shape of your crop. Highlight the area you want
to keep and click Apply.
2: Straighten up
Now click on the Rotate button. To straighten

up a wonky shot, adjust the Straighten
slider and use the grid to help you get your
horizon straight. You can also input your own
straightening value.
3: Flip and rotate
Next to the Straighten slider you will find

buttons to flip and rotate your shot. You can
rotate in 90 degree increments left or right,
and flip your shot vertically or horizontally in
one click.
1: Rotate your shot
2: Choose your angle
3: Free rotate
4: Flip your shot
Go to Image>Rotate for a selection of rotation

options. Clicking 90 degrees Left or Right will turn
your shot and change its orientation. Clicking 180
degrees will rotate and turn it upside down.
Go to Image>Rotate>Free Rotate Layer and drag

the corners of your image to rotate manually. You
may need to crop in, or create a new or duplicate
layer and reveal parts of the background layer.
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If you want to choose an angle not preset, go

to Image>Rotate>Custom. Type in an angle,
choose to turn it left or right and click OK. You
may have to crop to remove extra background.
To reverse the position of the subject, flip it. Go to

Image>Rotate and choose to Flip Horizontal or
Flip Vertical. Horizontal will move your subject left
or right, while Vertical will move them up or down.
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Extend backgrounds Use Elements to zoom out
Crop with BeFunky
1: Make it straight
Before
Open your photo in the free app on your

smartphone or tablet and tap the Edits tab at
the top. Select the Straighten tool and a grid
will appear across your image. Then drag your
finger along the slider at the bottom to tilt your
shot until it is parallel with the gridlines.
2: Get cropping
1: Increase the canvas size
2: Choose a direction
Tap the Crop tool in the Edits bar and choose

from the preset aspect ratios, or crop freely
and decide on your own shape. Drag your
finger across the shot to highlight the area that
you wish to keep. Tap the Apply icon when you
are happy with your changes.
3: Make a selection
4: Extend the background
3: Rotate your shot
If your background is cropped in too tightly, you

can easily add more space to the sides to zoom
out a little. Go to Image>Resize>Canvas size and
then choose your new height and/or width.
Select the Rectangular Marquee tool and highlight

an area of the background that is next to the
extended area of canvas. Dont include parts of
your subject or the blank canvas in your selection.
Choose which side of the shot you want to add

space to by changing the anchor point. Only add
background to the sides that are empty. Set the
canvas extension colour to Background. Click OK.
Hold Cmd/Ctrl+T and click inside your rectangular

selection. Drag the edges to cover the new areas
of blank canvas and fill them with your existing
background. When finished, click the green tick.
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The Rotate tool lets you flip and rotate your

photo. Tapping the Rotate button will turn your
shot in 90 degree increments and then you can
choose to flip the image. Save your shot.
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Simple ways to
edit your portrait photos
Retouch your portraits quickly with Elements, GIMP or iPhone and Android phone apps
Selections
To select areas, you can find
the Quick Selection tool right
here. The Selection Brush is
also here for more precision.
Spot Healing
Here youll find the Spot Healing

Brush, which does the bulk
of the skin clean-up work in
Photoshop Elements.
Gaussian Blur
Skin smoothing is achieved
with Gaussian Blur, which
can be found under the Blur
section of the Filter menu.
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Layers panel
This is where it all happens!
Note the spot removal,
smoothing, noise as well as
dodge and burn layers.
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Perfecting skin
Remove spots and smooth lines in Photoshop Elements 11
Info . . .
What youll need:
Photoshop Elements
11, GIMP, Pixlr
Express app or use
Photoshop CS and
PicBeauty app
Before
1: Set up spot healing
2: Remove spots and wrinkles
3: Build smooth skin
4: Brush in smoothing
5: Recreate skin texture
6: Dodge and burn to finish
Open your image in Expert mode, create a new

layer on top by clicking the icon in the Layers
panel. Press J for the Spot Healing Brush and set
it to Sample All Layers. Zoom in to 100%.
Invert the layer mask to Hide All with Cmd/Ctrl+I.

Press D to reset the colour palette, which gives a
white foreground. Press B for the Brush tool. Brush
the blur into skin areas, avoiding face contours.
Resize the brush to make it slightly bigger than

each blemish and click on them to remove. Do
the same for lines and wrinkles. Hold down the
spacebar and click and drag to move around.
Hold Opt/Alt and click Create a New Layer. Click

Overlay from the drop-down and check the box
below. Hit Enter. Go to Filter>Noise>Add Noise.
Add 4%. Check Gaussian and Monochromatic.
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Create a merged duplicate layer on top with

Cmd/Ctrl+Opt/Alt+Shift+E. Go to Filter>Blur>
Gaussian Blur and run 10px of blur for a high-res
image. In the Layers panel, select Add Layer Mask.
Add a Levels layer and push the middle slider left

to lighten. Add another and move the slider right
to darken. Invert both layer masks, then use a
white brush at 20% Opacity to dodge and burn.
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Beautify with Pixlr Express
Whiten eyes & teeth
Master Levels in Elements
1: Find your image
Open the Pixlr Express app on your

smartphone or tablet and select Camera to
take a shot, or tap the icon to choose a photo
from the gallery. Select your image and it will
appear in the dialog with options below it.
Before
2: Whiten the skin
Click the Adjustment button then select

Whiten. Set Brush Size to 65 and change
Whitening to 15. Brush into the skin with your
finger to whiten. Select the Eraser to brush out
unwanted areas.
3: Spots and skin tone
Go back and select Touch Up. Set the brush

size to about twice that of a blemish. Zoom
into the face and click Spot. Touch any spots
to remove. Switch to Shine and then brush
into the skin.
1: Select the teeth
2: Remove yellow and lighten
3: Lighten the whites
4: Focus the adjustments
Zoom into the teeth. With the Quick Selection tool

(A) click and drag inside to select them, avoiding
gums and lips. Hold Opt/Alt and drag to remove
from the areas. Add a Levels adjustment layer.
To lighten the eyes, add another Levels adjustment

layer. Drag the top white slider in to about setting
220 to lighten the whites. Invert the mask using
Cmd/Ctrl+I to Hide All for the adjustment layer..
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Change the mode from RGB to Blue and drag

the top white slider in. Switch back to RGB and
repeat (to about setting 240). Use a black brush to
remove the adjustment from unwanted areas.
Zoom into the eyes and select the Brush tool, press
D to make white the foreground colour. Adjust the
brush size and brush the adjustment into both
eyes. Switch to black (X) to cover mistakes.
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Sharpen eyes
Skin retouches using GIMP
Use Elements to bring them into focus
Before
1: Set up healing
Duplicate the Background layer by clicking

the button in the Layers panel. Change
the zoom mode to 100%. Select the
Healing tool (H) and resize it to slightly
bigger than the spots on the skin.
2: Remove blemishes
1: Create duplicate layer
Open your image and zoom in close to the eyes.

Duplicate the Background layer by dragging it to
the Create a New Layer button at the top of the
Layers panel. Rename the layer Sharpen.
2: Apply an Unsharp Mask
With the top layer active, go to Enhance>Unsharp

Mask. Set Radius to 0.5px, leave Threshold at 1
and push up the Amount slider to suit. Youll need
a high setting with the low radius. We used 350%.
Hold down Cmd/Ctrl and click on a

clean section of skin to set it as the
source area. Then, move around the
image, clicking to remove any spots and
blemishes, resizing the brush as needed.
Make a duplicate of the top layer.
3: Smooth the skin

3: Add a layer mask
Add a layer mask and invert it using Cmd/Ctrl+I to

Hide All and remove the effect temporarily. Press
D to reset the colour palette and create a white
foreground, then press B for the Brush tool.
4: Focus the sharpening
Take a soft brush at 100% Opacity, resize it and

then brush the adjustment into the eyes. Press
X to switch to black to brush out a mistake. Use
layer opacity to reduce the strength if need be.
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Head to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and

set Horizontal and Vertical to 30px. Then
Ctrl/right-click the duplicate top layer
and select Add Alpha Channel. Next,
select the Eraser brush, hold Opt/Alt and
carefully brush out the rough skin.
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Fix animal compositions
Use subtle adjustments and cropping to perfect composition and tone
aking photos of elephants, or any

other creature on a safari or at the
zoo for that matter, can prove very
tricky. Getting close enough for that perfect
picture is often just out of reach, and images
never usually turn out looking quite as lively
or spectacular as you had hoped for. Also,
getting the composition right first time can be
tricky with moving subjects. But thats why
Photoshop Elements is around to make these
improvements for us!
We look towards the Crop tool to firstly make
the composition of the image much better.
Just by simply cutting out excess background,
we can make the shot look instantly more
visually appealing. But it shouldnt end there,
and so we look to the helpfulness of Shadows/
Highlights adjustment to turn this rather dull
and lifeless animal photo on its head.
Get started by loading up your own safari
pictures, or bring it closer to home and use a
photo of your pet.
Info . . .
What youll need:
Photoshop Elements
Before
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Get a better view Use the Crop tool to make the composition more engaging
1: Find tool
The Crop tool is found in Photoshop Elementss

Expert mode. Press C to head straight to it. There
are a number of settings with the tool, but we want
to be as free as possible when recomposing the
image to keep everything in the picture.
Bring out details
2: Position crop box
Start with the top-left corner of the photo and click

and drag the cropping box to cover the animals.
Finish up in the bottom-right corner of the image.
Look to crop out the background areas that dont
add any interest to the scene.
3: Crop in tight
Crop in tight to the animals. Leave a gap of 1-2cm

around the sides, but leave more room at the top
and bottom parts of the image. Drag the cropping
area to adjust its position. Press Enter once youre
happy to confirm the changes.
Now its been cropped, its time to take the image to another level!
1: Shadows/Highlights
Because the elephants in this picture were far

away, they lack detail and look dark. To improve
all this in one go, head to the top toolbar and
Enhance menu>Adjust Lighting>Shadows/
Highlights to open the Settings dialog box.
2: Control shadows
You should see an instant improvement to

the midtones and details just by loading the
Shadows/Highlights adjustment. Increase the
Lighten Shadows slider to between 50-60% to
bring life back into the image.
3: Contrast and texture
If your image lacks detail, increase the Darken

Highlights slider to 10%. This will greatly improve
textures and lighting. The Midtones Contrast can
be boosted slightly to 5%, but changes here will
be subtle. Hit OK to finish the transformation.
Preview results
Lighten Shadows
This is where it all begins
to look much better, as the
Lighten Shadows will reveal
detail you never thought
could be there.
Flick between viewing your

image with or without the
changes applied using the
Preview box.
Darken Highlights
Midtones Contrast
Carefully boost the Darken

Highlights slider to bring
back details in the brighter
parts of your image great
for building up contrast.
This doesnt get as much

attention as the other
sliders, but will complete
the effect by bringing back
details in the Midtones.
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Restore colour and contrast to your subaquatic images for stunning results
hooting underwater can offer some very unique

opportunities for adventurous photographers,
from capturing colourful marine life to dramatic
shipwrecks. However, one of the main problems
encountered by underwater photographers is trying to
capture an image without extreme loss of colour and
contrast. The deeper the photograph is taken, the more
significant the problem. This applies horizontally as
well as vertically if your subject is too far away, it will
appear colourless, with some experts suggesting that
anything more than three feet away is unsatisfactory.
This is due to the longer wavelengths of light such as
red and orange being absorbed by the water, giving
everything a blue/green colour cast. The deeper you go,
the more blue everything will appear (even to the naked

eye) until eventually blue is the only colour recorded.
Professional undersea photographers overcome
these issues by getting as close to their subjects as
possible, using a wide-angle or Macro lens for a close
focus, or by using flash as a fill light to restore the
colour that is lost to the depths. If your images are still
colour-depleted, its still possible to restore them using
Photoshop, which is what were going to demonstrate
in this tutorial. Correcting underwater photos is quite
simple. However, due to a lack of an accurate grey point
which can normally be used to correct colours using
the Levels tool, underwater photos need to be manually
corrected. Follow these simple steps to find out how.
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Info . . .
What youll need:
Photoshop CS
6RXUFHOHV
available on
WKHGLVF
Before
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1: Duplicate layer
2: Eyedropper
3: Levels
4: Move the slider
6: Adjustment layers
7: Curves
8: Unsharp Mask
9: Cloning
Open up your underwater photo in Adobe

Photoshop and unlock the image by doubleclicking on the Background layer within the Layers
palette. Select the layer, hold down the Command
key and select Duplicate Layer.
Click on the Midtones slider and move it gently to

the left to increase the amount of red in the image.
Ensure that the Preview option is selected to see
the changes as you make them. When youre
happy with the results, click OK.
To boost the contrast of your image, you need to

create an S shape with the diagonal line within the
Curves palette. Clicking and dragging upwards
will create the top point, then repeat at the bottom.
Play around until you get the desired effect.
Check the colour balance of your photo using the

Eyedropper tool. Hover it over the image, watch
the info palette the values should all be roughly
equal. Here we can see that the image is lacking
red, due to the light being absorbed by water.
This is a very useful tool for bringing out detail in

darker areas of your image, such as the coral. It
can also bring back detail within any highlights.
Move the Shadows slider carefully and watch the
coral come back to life. Click OK.
Getting a sharp image is another common

problem underwater, especially if visibility is low
and youre using autofocus. For post-production
sharpening, go to Filter>Sharpen>Unsharp Mask
and use the settings above.
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Go to Images>Adjustments>Levels for the Levels

tool. Normally, a cast can be corrected using
the grey dropper, but due to a lack of grey in the
image to sample, well do it manually. From the
Channel drop-down menu, select Red.
Adjustment layers are a great, nondestructive way

of manipulating your image. Using Curves will
boost contrast without losing detail so select the
Adjustment Layer drop-down menu at the bottom
of the Layers palette and pick Curves.
Finally, bubbles, plankton and general debris can

give the appearance of Noise within the image,
making it look cloudy and dirty. Zoom in close
and use the clone tool with a very small brush to
clean up any spots for a brighter, underwater shot.
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Fixes to improve close-ups
Discover our selection of the top techniques for editing macro and close-up images in Photoshop
Adjustmnet layers
These feature as their own layers

and contain all the adjustments
you need for improving your
close-ups. Manipulate colour,
tone and contrast.
History palette
History states are records

of the editing process, so
you can jump back at any
time to undo mistakes or
compare revisions.
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Layer masks
Used with adjustment layers,
masks look to hide parts
of an effect. This makes
selectively editing your
close-up subjects easier.
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Adjust exposure
Take control of lighting with Shadows/Highlights
Info . . .
Before
1: Non-destructive edits
2: Shadow details
3: Control highlights
4: Reduce Tonal Width
5: Colour correction
6: Adapt opacity
Make a copy of your Background layer by

pressing Cmd/Ctrl+J. This will let you make nondestructive edits. Then in the Image menu, go to
Adjustment>Shadows/Highlights.
Reduce the Highlights Tonal Width to about 15%

and boost up the Radius slider for Highlights to
157px. This will help to balance the overall tonal
ranges. Experiment for the best results.
Drop the Shadows Amount slider until the lighter

parts of your image look correct. Boost the
Shadows Tonal Width slider to keep the detail in
darker parts.
Use the Color Correction slider to control the

strength of colour. Increasing this to about +2030 should be enough. Slide the Midtone Contrast
adjustment up to +60 to bring the effect together.
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What youll need:

Photoshop CS or use
Photoshop Elements
Close-up photo
To make the exposure more lively, increase the

Highlight Amount slider. Keep it around 15% to
prevent distortion. This slider will help to control
the contrast before you adapt the midtones.
Hit OK in the adjustment and go to your Layers

palette. You can lower the strength of the effect by
controlling the Opacity slider. Set this to 50% to
soften the changes made to Shadows/Highlights.
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Recompose your shots
Boost colour
Call up the Hue/Saturation adjustment
1: Unconstrained crop
The Crop tool will help you to create the

best possible composition. If using it, select
Unconstrained in the top Options bar to control
the height and width of the cropping boundary
for your image.
Before
2: Choose guide
The Photoshop CS6 Crop tool has several

helpful guidelines and patterns to make
for an even better composition. The Rule
of Thirds, Golden Ratio and Triangle
are just some of the possibilities.
3: Try a preset
Use the grid overlay to match up

intersections with the main focal points
on your subject. Use the boxes along the
edges to readjust, crop in tight to your
subject and cut out excess background.
1: Load adjustment
2: Steady as you go
3: Select colour
4: Control methods
Go to Image>Adjustments>Hue/Saturation. With
the adjustment set to Master, all image colours will
be affected by changes. Increase the Saturation
slider to +15-30 for a more vibrant image.
To improve just one colour, change Adjustment

from Master to a colour of your choice. When the
Saturation slider is adjusted, only parts of your
image with that colour in will become more vibrant.
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Be careful not to go too high with the Saturation

slider, otherwise colours will start to lose definition
and quality. To reset any changes made in this
adjustment, Opt/Alt-click on the Cancel button.
Controlling the value of the Saturation slider for

each colour gives complete control over the
balance of colours in your macro shot. When
happy, click OK and then save your shot.
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Improve detail
Use the High Pass filter for intricate shots
The best Macro Plug-ins

Always keep a plug-in or two waiting
and ready. These program add-ons
focus on an area of editing that would
require more time in Photoshop. Heres
our selection of the top three
Before
1: Color Efex Pro 4
A creative reduction plug-in that specialises in

adapting the colour and exposure of images
and lets users make localised changes.
1: Duplicate layer
Create a copy of the Background layer (Layer>

Duplicate Layer). Go to the Filter menu, choose
Convert for Smart Filter. This converts the layer to
a smart one any changes can be re-edited.
3: Preview filter
Go back to the Filter menu and the Other filter

options. From here, select the High Pass filter and
a dialog box will open showing a close-up of your
image. Tick Preview to show the image changes.
2: Harder blend
Change the blend mode of this smart layer from

Normal to Hard Light in the Layers palette. This
will increase the exposure and contrast of the
image, but only until we apply the High Pass filter.
4: More details
Set the Radius slider between 3 and 9px. Any

higher and the image will appear abstract. Hit OK.
Double-click the High Pass section in the palette
to re-open the filter to increase the effect if needed.
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2: Bokeh 2
Applies a lens effect to make images more

expressive. Change the focusing, grain and
vignette for the ultimate macro effect.
3: Film Stocks
Images can be made to look as if they were

shot on traditional film. Layers and blend
modes form a big part of this plug-in.
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Photoshops trusty Levels adjustment is a must-have for solving a range of photographic problems
he Levels adjustment layer should be one of

the first places you go to tweak lighting and
colour. In fact its so versatile that it can be used
to perform multiple fixes in one go.
The Levels adjustment is commonly used to correct
undesirable lighting, but due to its relationship with
colour channels its also helpful for correcting tinted
images. Its purely indispensable for any budding
Photoshop artist.
The mask that comes with the Levels adjustment can be

used to stop changes being made to a particular colour,
such as sky or grass. Apply the Magic Wand tool (W)
to create a selection (uncheck Contiguous) around one
FRORXU7RQLVKDSSO\ the Levels adjustment and invert
its mask (Cmd/Ctrl+I) to protect these areas from being
altered. This is a great way to get creative with lighting,
as well as add or distort colour. Here well guide you

through the different uses of the Levels adjustment.
Info . . .
What youll need:
Photoshop CS
6RXUFHOHV
available on the
GLVF
Fool the eye

The Levels adjustment lets
you mask away parts of
your image, like the sky, to
control just the foreground
and balance exposure.
Control light
Boost shadows and
highlights in areas of
underexposure using the
Levels adjustment, such as
on the road in this image.
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Powerful exposure
Take control of colour and light using the Levels adjustment
1: Open Levels
2: Middle of the road
3: Adjust your brush settings
4: Improve the sky
5: Focus on the red
6: Boost the contrast
Find the supplied tutorial image to replicate the results shown in these
steps. Load your Levels adjustment by going to Layer>New Adjustment
Layer>Levels. Hit OK in the pop-up box.
Use the Brush tool (B) set to 100% Opacity and make your Foreground black.
Ctrl/right-click over the image, set the Size to 1,000px and Hardness to 0%.
Click on the adjustments icon in the Layers palette and then change the
Levels from RGB to Red using the list of options inside the graph. Also slide
the Midtones marker to the right until it reads 0.84.
We can brighten up this dim street by shifting the middle of the three
sliders to the left. This lightens the dark road, but as a result the sky will
lose its impact.
Select the adjustments layer mask in the Layers palette, paint over the sky
to reveal the unedited version and balance the exposure.
To give the image one last injection of contrast, switch the Levels adjustment
back to RGB. Grab the white marker to control the highlights and slide it up
to 200. This will give the light streaks even more vibrancy than before.
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Take it to the next level
Combine Levels with blend modes for extra contrast
Before
1: Fix the flat contrast
Open the supplied flower image from the disc, which will currently lack a bit
of contrast. Load up the Levels adjustment from the Layers palette by clicking
on the Create New Fill or Adjustment Layer button.
3: Control the highlights
Grab the Highlights marker inside the Levels

adjustment and slide it to the left to boost contrast
and brightness. Be wary of the brightest parts of
the image, but these can also be fixed later.
2: Use a blend mode
Before making any changes to the adjustment, change its blend mode from
Normal to Overlay in the Layers palette. This improves things slightly, but we
can tweak settings to suit the blend mode.
4: Alter the shadows
Pull the black marker to the right in the Levels

adjustment until the contrast is balanced. Slide
the Midtones marker to the left to enhance this
result further.
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5: Original detail
Use the Brush tool (B) set to 10% Opacity, 400px

Size and paint over the highlights on the petals.
This reduces any over-exposure in these areas by
revealing the original Background layer.
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Brighten shadows
Correct the underexposed areas of your photos
hen you are shooting in tricky

lighting conditions, for example on
very bright days, it can be difficult to
ensure that your shots are evenly exposed.
If your subject is in shadow then it is likely that
important details will get lost in the dark areas
of your photograph. You may be able to correct
this in-camera by selecting a wider aperture
(lower f-number) or a slower shutter speed to
let more light reach your sensor, but this could
result in other parts of your image becoming
overexposed instead. Editing software is great
for brightening up specific parts of your shots
for a better overall exposure, bringing out
otherwise unseen details. Follow our quick and
easy tutorial below to learn how to do this in
your own photos.
Before
Info . . .
What youll need:
Photoshop Elements
or other editing
software
Bring out detail
Brighten up the dark areas of your photos
1: Lighten the shadows
Automatically brighten the shadows in your

image by going to Enhance>Adjust Color>
Color Variations. Select Shadows from the
list of options as the area that you wish to
adjust and set the Color Intensity slider to its
centre point. Then click the Lighten button.
2: Adjust shadows further
To brighten the shadows a bit more, go to

Enhance>Adjust Color>Adjust Color Curves.
Select Lighten Shadows from the Select A Style
box and then boost the Adjust Shadows slider
until you are happy with the effects. You can view
the changes in the After image at the top.
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3: Brighten specific areas
Select the Dodge tool from the toolbar on the

left-hand side. Set the Range to Shadows
from the drop-down menu and adjust the
Exposure slider to 50% or lower, then brush
over the dark parts of your shot to lighten them
up. Adjust your brush size as necessary.
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Reduce noise
Learn to bring out detail in low-light photos
igital noise is the grain that can

sometimes appear in photos and
reduce their quality. Its a particular
problem when shooting in low light. Increasing
your ISO to make the sensor more sensitive
to light and brighten up the shot can help to
create a well-exposed image, but it also has the
side effect of creating digital noise. However,
this also depends on the camera you are using.
You could brighten up your shots by using a
slower shutter speed or wider aperture instead,
but if this isnt possible, editing software can
help save the day.
Heres how to easily reduce noise in your
images with some simple adjustments in
Photoshop Elements 11, but you could also use
Photoshop CS or GIMP too.
Info . . .
What youll need:
Photoshop Elements
or other editing
software
Clean up shots
Before
Use Photoshop Elements 11 to remove grain
1: Reduce the noise
Once you have opened up your image in

your editing software, click on the Filter tab
in the top toolbar, and then go to Noise.
Select Reduce Noise from the list of options.
The editing software will then automatically
reduce the amount of noise in your photo.
2: Adjust the strength
If youre not happy with the automatic noise

reduction that has been applied to your photos,
you can then increase or reduce the effect as
necessary by adjusting the Strength slider or
inputting a specific percentage amount. Tick the
Preview box to view your changes.
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3: Make further adjustments
Boosting the Preserve Details slider will protect

the edges and detail in your image, but it will also
reduce the amount of noise removal. To target
unusually coloured grain, boost the Reduce
Colour Noise slider. With the Preview box ticked
you can view the adjustments as you experiment.
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Brighten up dull skies

Improve your vistas by adding a gradient in three easy steps
hen photographing a beautiful

scene, its easy to capture an
attractive shot if you consider your
composition. However, the time of day you
shoot in and the weather can massively affect
the outcome of your landscapes. As light and
colours are so important, its a shame when
you go out for a shoot and the weather isnt on
your side. Dull skies with lacklustre colour can
ruin a photo, but there are ways to correct this
in editing software. Its important that you get
the composition and exposure right in-camera
so that you have a good starting point, but
dont worry if your shots look a little drab. Back
home, upload your photos and open up your
editing program to add some colour with a
gradient. Weve used Photoshop Elements
11, but gradients are available in a variety of
software, and the principles remain the same.
Info . . .
What youll need:
Photoshop Elements
or other editing
software
Before
Add a gradient Use Photoshop Elements 11 to boost dull skies
1: Select the sky
Open your image in your editing program and use

the Quick Selection tool to select the sky. Zoom
in and decrease the tool size to tidy it up. Add a
Gradient adjustment layer by clicking the icon in
the Layers panel.
2: Set the gradient
Untick Reverse, change Style to Linear and

Angle to -90. Click the Gradient box and select
Foreground to Transparent. Click the bottom
sliders (the Color Stops) and choose a sky blue
from the drop-down.
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3: Change the opacity
Adjust the opacity with the top sliders so that the

colour fades as it reaches the horizon. Click OK,
then go to the Layers panel to adjust the overall
opacity. Flatten it (Layer>Flatten) and you are
ready to save!
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Enhance sunset skies
Boost the colour hues in your golden hour shots using layer masks and adjustment tools
he golden hours are unquestionably the best

time of day to shoot a stunning scenic vista.
Offering an ideal light, the landscape is illuminated
by warm colour hues and much richer tones. The
position of the Sun at these times can also add extra
depth to an image, thanks to longer shadows being cast
and brighter highlights.
Many professional landscape photographers use
the post-processing stage in order to enhance their
exposures, by improving existing colour tones, tweaking
contrast and making general corrections to their
captures. Of course, if you dont start with a quality shot,
youll never get a fantastic result, so you must always
ensure youve captured the scene as best you can

in-camera first.
Also, If youre shooting in RAW you may find that
colours appear a little washed out on the computer
screen when compared to the JPEG preview on your
cameras back LCD. Dont worry, the colours are still
present, but will require some enhancing in Photoshop
to effectively stand out. In this tutorial youll discover
how to use Photoshops powerful adjustments, such as
Curves, Color Balance and Selective Color, to bring out
the existing hues and contrast in a shot. Youll also learn
how to work with layer masks effectively to make overall
and localised adjustments to specific areas.
Info . . .
What youll need:
Photoshop CS
Before
By using layer masks and

colour enhancement tools
in Photoshop you can
ensure your sunset and
sunrise shots stand out
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1: Increase contrast
2: Control the tones
3: Reveal the adjustments
4: Warm up the scenes tones
5: Balance the colour hues
6: Adjust select areas
7: Strengthen hues
8: Add depth
9: Create a vignette
Open your image in Photoshop and duplicate the

Background layer. Select the Curves adjustment
from the Create New Fill or Adjustment Layer icon
at the bottom of the Layers palette and increase
overall contrast by manipulating the anchor points.
You can now enhance the existing warm colour

tones in the scene by selecting the Photo Filter
adjustment. In the adjustments dialog box, select
Warming Filter LBA, click to Preserve Luminosity
and adjust the Density slider.
Select the Selective Color tool once again to make

more controlled adjustments to specific hues
in the entire scene. Here you can strengthen or
soften some colours. Work through the range of
options and use the Preview icon to check results.
Select the Curves again within the Layers palette

and increase the colour contrast further within
the sky. Ignore the effect that this adjustment has
on the rest of the image for the moment and just
select the layer mask box next to the Curves layer.
Select the Color Balance adjustment tool from the

Layers palette and begin tweaking the coloured
sliders in the Highlights, Midtones and Shadows
to enhance the hues further. Focus on increasing
the sunset shade across the image.
To ensure all of the adjustments youve made

to the colour hues stand out, use the Curves
adjustment again. Add two anchor points along
the diagonal line and adjust them to ensure that
the highlights pop and the shadows stand out.
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Invert the layer mask box to black, to hide the

previous Curves adjustment. Now select a
soft-edged brush with a high opacity and the
Foreground colour set to white. You can now
begin to paint over the sky to reveal the contrast.
To reduce the purple hue in the clouds, pick the

Selective Color adjustment and make tweaks to
the sliders in the white and midtone range. Use
the layer mask in the same way as before to make
a localised edit that only affects the clouds.
Bring focus to the centre of the frame by adding a

vignette. Select the Lens Correction filter from the
Filter menu and click on the Custom tab. Adjust
the Amount and Midpoint sliders in the Vignette
section and click OK. Flatten all layers and save.
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Improve your landscape photos
Use Photoshop or Photoshop Elements to easily enhance your scenery shots
Gradient tool
This tool is in the
side toolbar. Click
and hold the
mouse over the
Paint Bucket tool
to reveal it. The
tool options are
up in the top bar.
Gradient
options
Transform
tools
Gradient blend
styles are found in
the top bar. Use
the Foreground
to Transparent
Blend mode for
this project.
The Free Transform

tool can be found
under Edit in
Photoshop CS or
Image in Elements,
or try the quick
keys Cmd/Ctrl+T.
Add a Mask
Use this tool to
apply a tweak
to your image
without affecting
the whole photo.
Open the mask
palette via
Window>Masks.
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Layers
palette
In this palette
youll find such
tools as Blends,
Opacity settings,
and Masks. You
can also organise
multiple layers.
Info . . .
What youll need:
Photoshop CS or
Photoshop Elements
Suitable start image
Adjustment
layer palette
Use this tool to

fix colour casts,
adjust brightness,
contrast and more.
Click on one and
see it appear in
the Layers palette.
WorldMags.net
ave you ever uploaded your images to your

computer to find that they are not quite as you
had anticipated? Well worry no more, as we are
about to share our expert Photoshop skills with you, in
easy-to-follow tutorials.
We have all been in the situation where weve gone
out to shoot some beautiful landscapes and the wind
and weather has been against us. This can lower the
overall quality of the end results. However, over the next
few pages we will run through all of the tools and skills
required to achieve amazing landscape photographs in
your projects post-production phase.
Say goodbye to wonky horizons, colour casts or
lighting issues, as we will show you how to correct all
Straighten your horizon lines
of these photographic niggles, meaning that there is

less pressure on you to capture that one perfect shot
in-camera.
In this tutorial we have used Photoshop CS5,
but the whole process has been tried and tested in
Photoshop Elements 10. Apart from a few parts, which
we have highlighted, the whole process works in
much the same way. All tools are located in the same
place, so dont worry if our interface looks different.
So, its time to sort through your photo libraries
and dig out those landscape photos that need a little
TLC. Read through the tutorial before beginning, as
you may pick up a few more hints to help you achieve
the quality images youve been dreaming of.
Technical Tip
An adjustment layer is a
nondestructive edit layer
with a ready-loaded Mask.
To edit, just click onto the
specific layer in the Layers
palette and tweak the
settings to suit.
Make your photos perfectly level before sharing or printing
1: Make your layer editable
Open your wonky start photo. Go to the Layers

palette and double-click onto the Background
layer to make it editable. Press Cmd/Ctrl+R or go
to View>Rulers. Click and drag downwards from
the top ruler, dropping a line where the horizon
should sit.
Before
2: Activate Transform
Use this ruler line as your guide. To move it, make

sure youre on the Move tool (quick key V) then
hover over the guide, click and move. Go to Edit in
the top tool bar, select Free Transform (quick keys
Cmd/Ctrl+T) to activate Transform.
3: Rotate and line up
Hover your mouse over one of the selections

corner squares to get a rotate icon, then rotate the
image until your horizon lines up along with the
ruler guide. Hit OK when youre done, then move
the line to check alignment. Repeat if necessary.
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4: Crop the chequerboard
When happy with your positioning, select the Crop

tool (quick key C). Drag the tool over your image
and adjust by hovering over the squares along
the edges or drag to move. Make sure you are
cropping off any unwanted image, then hit Enter.
Add a gradient
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Use gradients to subtly boost colour in your landscapes
1: Add a new layer
Add a new layer. Press the Create A New Layer

button, found at the base of the Layers palette.
Select the Gradient tool from the side tool bar. If
its not visible in CS5, press and hold your mouse
on the Paint bucket tool and it will reveal itself.
2: Colour and Blend mode
To add a bolder blue tint to the sky, double-click

on the foreground-coloured square in the side
toolbar, select your blue, hit OK. In the top bar,
gradient tool options appear. Click the coloured
bar, select Foreground to Transparency blend.
3: Add some brightening colour
Select the Linear Gradient icon, then from the

blend mode drop-down select Multiply. Working
on the newly added layer, draw downwards on
your canvas, holding the Shift key to keep it
straight. Lower the opacity in the Layers palette.
Crop for added impact Make use of the rule of thirds when cropping to enhance composition
A simple crop can drastically
improve your composition
1: Rule of thirds
Before
2: Position your selection
Placing your focal points along the gridlines helps

to balance your image, drawing your eye in to the
scene. Use the rulers in Photoshop to mark out a
grid to help show you where your photo should sit.
3: Select the crop tool
You can then correct your image using the Crop

tool in Photoshop. With the Crop tool selected,
draw a crop box over your image. Use the
squares on the sides to alter the shape of the box.
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This is an aid that artists and photographers use

to ensure the best compositional arrangements.
Imagine your photo is divided up into nine
squares. Dont centralise your key focal points but
position them over the guidelines.
4: Crop or undo
When you are happy with the selected area, hit

enter to crop down. If youre unhappy with the final
result, press Cmd/Ctrl+Z to undo the crop. Then
re-do your crop until you are happy.
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Quick landscape edits
Tweaking the brightness and

contrast has given this dull
cityscape much more impact!
1: Brightness and contrast
Before
Correct colours and brightness
Use Adjustment layers
1: Correct colour casts
2: Switch to Levels
3: Brighten and contrast
4: Colour tweaks in Levels
Bring up the Adjustments palette and click onto

Color Balance. The window will show this tools
features (not available in Elements). Our image
has a blue cast, so working on Midtones, move
the sliders away from the blue end of the scale.
The left black arrow affects the shadows, the

middle one tweaks the midtones and the right
white slider alters the highlights. f unsure what to
move, try out the Auto button.
If the colour cast is extreme, also work on the

Shadow and Highlight options. Press the arrow
icon in the bottom-left corner of the Adjustment
palette to go back and select Levels (Elements:
press top-right line icon in the Adjustments palette).
Click onto the drop-down menu above the graph

and select individual colour channels to tweak by
hand, so if your image still has a touch of colour
cast to it, you can fix it here.
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Add a Brightness/Contrast Adjustment layer

from the Adjustments palette. Just move the
two sliders and watch your image improve. To
edit at a later date, just click onto its layer in the
Layers palette to make the sliders visible.
2: Hue/Saturation
In the Adjustment palette move the sliders to

see instant changes. Increasing saturation will
improve the colour quality, decreasing will turn
it to greyscale. In this palette you can also add
slight colour casts and brighten the image.
Go to Image>Adjustments>Shadows/
Highlights. This dialog box has lots of slider
options, but for now stick to the simple two
Shadow and Highlight sliders. Experiment with
others when you feel more confident.
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Correct distracting
lens distortion
Before
Restore perspective in warped images of

buildings and monuments with these simple steps
ens distortion is when subjects in an

image appear to lean backwards, or the
straight lines look like they are curving
out. While it can happen with any subject, its
very noticeable on a structure, where your eyes
naturally expect walls and pillars to be perfectly
straight. Perspective distortion, or the leaning
effect, is caused when you shoot at an extreme
angle. For example, if youre photographing a
tall building and pointing your camera directly
up, the resulting image will show the building
leaning back. Shooting straight on is the best
way to avoid this. Barrel distortion, on the other
hand, is often a result of shooting with a wideangle lens. Zooming in on a subject rather than
shooting with a lens at its widest is a good way
to eliminate curved-out edges in your image.
Distortion is not always a bad thing, as it can
produce some creative results, but if its not
what you intended it can be very distracting.
While there are simple steps you can take to
avoid creating a distorted image, there are
also editing fixes you can apply to an image
thats suffering from noticeable distortion. A lot
of the larger photo editing programs, such as
Photoshop Elements and Lightroom, include
an option to correct distortion. In Elements,
the Camera Distortion filter lets you adjust the
vertical and horizontal perspectives, which
essentially pull your image straight. One
downside is that reframing will cut off some of
the top and side of the image. However, this
step-by-step guide will ensure that you do the
best job possible.
Warped perspective
Shooting at an extreme
angle causes lens
distortion, warping the
perspective of the subject
in the image.
Info . . .
What youll need:
Photo editing
software
Distorted image
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Remove distortion Straighten up your structure
Banish vignetting
1: Go to the Filter
menu
Open the distorted image

in Photoshop Elements and
click the Expert tab. Start by
right clicking the image in
the Layers menu and select
Duplicate to protect your
image from the changes
that you make. In the
Filter menu, select Correct
Camera Distortion from the
list of options.
1: Identifying vignettes
Like distortion, vignetting is another unwanted

lens effect that can creep into an image.
Vignetting is characterised by a darkening at
the edge of the image.
2: Turn on the grid
The Camera Correction filter opens up a new

screen. Turn on the Show Grid option at the
bottom of the menu this is a useful guide to help
you as you manually straighten up your image.
4: Use the Pinch filter
As lens correction is distortion in itself, other

distortion filters can be useful too. Fixing the
vertical perspective creates a slight bulge in the
centre. To fix this well add a slight pinch. Go to
Filter>Distort>Pinch.
3: Adjust vertical perspective
Move the Vertical Perspective slider left to start

moving the building up, using the grid as a visual
reference. Pull the building as straight as you can
without sacrificing any detail. Click OK.
5: Apply the pinch
In the Pinch menu, move the Pinch slider to

about 10. Youll see on the grid icon that this will
affect the centre of the image without touching
the outside, where the lines are already straight.
Click OK.
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2: Correct camera distortion
As before, open Filter>Correct Camera

Distortion. Move the Vignette slider to the left to
lighten up the edges of the image and remove
unwanted vignetting.
3: Balance colour
Use the Midpoint slider to balance out the

colour, making sure that the edges blend with
the rest of the image. Click OK, and your photo
should be good enough to share!
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Sharpen up any photo
Master the sharpening tools in Photoshop CS, Elements and the Photoshop Express app to get rid of blur
What is sharpening?
A sharp image has crisp
edges. Edges have a light
side and a dark side and if
the contrast between these
is strong, the edge will
look sharp. If the contrast
is small, the edges look
blurred. Most sharpening
tools work around this
principle, in that they search
for edge contrast and then
emphasise it.
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Improve face detail
Get to grips with Unsharp Mask in Photoshop
Info . . .
Before
What youll need:

Blurry images
Photoshop CS or
Elements
1: Duplicate for safety
2: Open up Unsharp Mask
3: Tweak the Amount slider
4: Tweak the Radius slider
5: Nudge the Threshold slider
6: Erase and tidy up
Open up Photoshop CS or Elements and go to

Layer>Duplicate layer to set up a duplicate layer
of your image before you begin to edit. This way
you can dispatch the layer if things go awry.
Unsharp Mask sharpens the contrast between

edges in an image, the Radius slider sets how
wide the contrast area should be. Fine detail
needs a small number, more for large areas of blur.
In Photoshop CS go to Filter>Sharpen>
Unsharp Mask, or in Elements go to Enhance>
Unsharp Mask. Use the zoom tools and drag to
show a detailed area. Ensure Preview is selected.
The Threshold slider enables you to control where

the edit is applied. A low setting will apply the
sharpen everywhere, while higher settings are
used to only target edges. Click OK.
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The Amount slider dictates how intense the

sharpening is. The further right it goes, the higher
the sharpening amount. The sliders work in
tandem, so it can be a dance between the three.
The face detail is much improved, but there are

areas where the sharpening process has overemphasised highlights. No worries the Eraser
tool, set to a soft-edged brush, will sort this out.
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Use the Sharpen tool
Sharpen in Elements Use the Adjust Sharpness tool
1: Set up the brush
Pick the Sharpen tool from the Enhance

section of the tool box and select a soft-edged
brush from the Options bar. Then make the
size of the brush slightly larger than the object
you want to sharpen.
2: Small opacity
You can avoid over-sharpening your image

by setting the Strength to 40% opacity in the
Options bar at the bottom. Then repeatedly
brush over an area of your image to build up
the sharpening effect.
3: Brush and sharpen
Create a duplicate layer, and on this new

layer use the Zoom tool to focus in and then
click and drag to brush the sharpen on. The
more times you repeat the process, the more
sharpening is applied.
Before
1: Prepare the edit
2: Pick your blur
3: Adjust the sliders
4: Set an angle
In Elements, duplicate your image and go to

Enhance>Adjust Sharpness. In CS2 onwards,
go to Filter>Sharpen>Smart Sharpen. Select the
Preview option and zoom into an area.
The Amount and Radius sliders work in the same

way as Unsharp Mask. There is quite a bit of
sharpening needed here, so we set Amount to
370. To target the small detail, Radius is set to 0.9.
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The Remove drop-down menu lets you target

types of blur. If your blur is a result of camera
shake, pick the Motion Blur option. Its always
worth trying each option to see which works best.
Angle sets the angle of blur in the image for the

sharpening to react to. It isnt always obvious, so
you can click and drag the circle to work through
the angles, or if you know the angle, type it in.
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Quick edit
Sharpen up in Photoshop Express
Use the High Pass filter
1: Blend-Mode magic
Before
1: Open your image
2: Access the sharpen controls
3: Sharpen the image
4: Check and save
Photoshop Express is a nifty way to edit your

images on your tablet. You can perform a host
of fundamental edits, including sharpening. Tap
Select Photo and tap to open your image up.
To apply the sharpen simply sweep up to increase

sharpen, or sweep down to decrease. Sweep
upwards slightly and then let go. The image will
update. If its too much, just sweep down.
Tap the fourth icon from the left to find the

sharpen facilities. Tap on Sharpen and the screen
will darken. A helpful screen will show you the
gesture that controls the amount of sharpen.
Tap and hold the icon that looks like two

mountains in the bottom-left. Youll see the original
image. Let go and it reverts back to the edited
version. If happy, tap the tick icon and tap Save.
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Open your image and duplicate the layer. In

the Blend Mode menu, select Overlay from the
list of options. This will create a high-contrast
version of your image. This will highlight the
edges, ready to be sharpened.
2: Apply the High Pass filter
Go to Filter>Other>High Pass. The aim here

is to adjust the Radius so that the edges are
nice and crisp. We went for 2.1, but this will
obviously differ according to your image.
Check the Preview box.
3: More Blend-Mode magic
Hit OK to see your sharpened shot. You can

make further tweaks with Blend Modes. Soft
Light will reduce sharpening, while Hard Light
will increase it. Pick the one you want and
then save.
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Speed up your editing workflow
Learn tips and tricks for speeding up common photo editing tasks over multiple platforms
Info . . .
What youll need:
Editing program
Computer, tablet or
cameraphone
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Use Actions in Photoshop Elements
Add effects and edits in seconds
1: What is an Action?
2: Use built-in options
3: Run an Action
4: View the steps
5: Find more Actions
6: Create your own
7: Load new Actions
8: Run loaded Actions
9: Reset the panel
An Action is an automated series of edits

applied to an image. When you add photo
effects in Elements, you are essentially running
an Action. There is a dedicated panel found in
Window>Actions.
See how they Actions work by expanding the

Action to view the steps involved. Do this by
clicking on the arrow next to the Action title. You
will then see a list of everything that takes place
and the settings used.
When you find an Action that you want to use, you

need to download it and save it to your computer.
In the Actions panel, hit the top-right drop-down
menu and select Load Action, then browse to the
one you want.
This is the Actions panel, where you will find some

built-in Actions. These are categorised by what
they do: some have practical applications and
some have more fun effects. Click on the folders
to see them.
There are a limited number of Actions built into

Elements, but luckily there are thousands more
to download. The Adobe website has some, or
you can do a search. Many of these are free, but
some will cost you.
Any Actions that you load will appear in the

Actions panel. You select them in the same way
as the built-in Actions and run them to apply
the effect. This gives you loads of options to
customise your snaps quickly.
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To see what an Action does, open a photo in the

main window and click on the Action that you are
interested in. Next, hit the Play button in the topright of the panel. The Action will run and you will
see the effect.
Photoshop CS users can create their own Actions.

Hit the Record button to capture all settings and
tools applied to an image, and when you are done
press the Stop button. You can then name it and
save it as an Action.
You can choose to reset your Actions at any time,

which clears all of the loaded Actions and reverts
to just the built-in ones. This means you can
experiment as much as you like without clogging
up your Actions panel.
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Lightroom preset effects
Batch edit in Elements Process files in one go
1: Process multiple files
2: Select the destination
2: Preview effects
3: Name the files
4: Select the image size
A handy feature of the Presets that you cant

do with Actions is being able to hover over
them to see a preview of the effect before you
apply it, meaning you can experiment with the
different options before committing.
You might want to give all your files a consistent

title. You can enter a name for them and then
they will be numbered as well, so you would
have MyFile1, MyFile2, etc. This can be useful for
organising your pictures.
3: Apply and edit
5: Apply quick fixes
6: Add a copyright
1: Find the Presets
Presets in Lightroom are essentially the same

as Actions in Elements. Open your image in
Lightroom, then go to the Develop window.
Presets are found on the left-hand side of the
main window.
Click on a Preset in the left-hand toolbar to

apply it to your image. You can also edit the
effect using the tools in the right-hand window.
As with Actions, you can download new
Presets from the web.
Open Elements and go to File>Process Multiple

Files. This will let you batch edit a folder of photos
in one go. You cant make major edits, but you
can apply automatic corrections, rename files and
resize them.
The Quick Fix box lets you apply automatics edits

to all your images at once. Just tick the check
boxes for the edits that you wish to run. Auto
Levels and Auto Contrast are the most commonly
used here.
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Browse to the source folder where the images you

want to edit are kept, and then select a destination
to save your edited images to. If you tick Same
as Source, then your original image files will be
overwritten.
You can resize all your images in one go by

entering a new resolution or size. By default,
the size of the image is constrained to prevent
distortion, but you can turn this off. You can also
save them as a different file type.
Finally, you can add a watermark to your photos

by choosing the text, position and font. When
you are happy with your edits, hit OK and they
will be made. The files will be saved to your
chosen destination.
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Fast fixes with Snapseed
Make quick changes with this free photo editing app
1: Open your image
Click the camera icon in the top-left of the window

to select a photo from your Library. You can also
choose to take a photo. This will then open in
Snapseed. You will see all of the edits down the
left-hand side.
2: Automatic adjustments
Opt for Automatic for a quick edit. Pick Color

Correction or Contrast Correction by swiping up
and down, and left and right to alter the effect. Hit
the bottom-right arrow to apply and the bottomleft one to cancel.
3: Manual adjustments
For more in-depth edits, select from a range of

tools including Selective Adjust, which lets you
edit just part of your image. There is a handy help
menu (the question mark in the top-left) to show
you the controls.
4: Special effects
If you want to get creative, you can add loads of

effects, such as Black & White, Vintage (shown
here), Drama, Grunge, Tilt-Shift, Retrolux and
Frames. Any changes can be undone if you dont
like them.
5: Share your snaps
When complete, use the Share icon in the topright of the window and you will see many options,
including Google+, Twitter, Email and Facebook.
You can also use the Save option to keep your
edited version.
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Master RAW conversion
Get the most out of your file processing and create stunning looks for print and screen
Work with RAW for higher

image quality and master light,
colour and detail to create
your own stunning visions
Before
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hen it comes to the post-production phase after a successful

shoot, many photographers share the same objective.
And that is to optimise a photo for editing in Photoshop using
Adobe Camera Raw software. To maximise your RAW images potential,
Photoshop offers up many robust image-manipulation options. You may
not want to perform too many edits using Camera Raw and use the
versatile plug-in to simply prime your shot for the Photoshop treatment.
However, if you are most comfortable using Camera Raw exclusively,
thats fine with us. The techniques we share here can easily be modified
for either workflow, so the choice is yours.
Before we get hands-on in this tutorial, its really helpful to learn

about the Workflow options, which give you a head start in your editing
projects. Activate this by clicking the text at the foot of your interface.
Set Space to Adobe RGB (1998) as its the default gamut space used
by all professionals in digital and print. A 16 Bit Depth is always a better
choice if your computer can handle large files. Use this setting and youll
appreciate more fluid edits in return. Refrain from activating Open in
Photoshop as Smart Object though you will find out why later.
Now its time to grab your photographs, open up Adobe Camera Raw
and get stuck in.
1: Use the Histogram
2: Bring back texture
3: Set light temperature
4: Advanced sharpening
5: Tackle noise
6: Open as an Object
For a balanced exposure, activate both Clipping

Warning icons in the Histogram. Slide negative
and positive values to show blue (underexposed
shadow) and red (overexposed highlight) previews.
Set your exposure bar to minimise both selections.
Photoshop has powerful sharpening tools, so

boosting micro-contrast with the Clarity slider will
be enough in ACR. The Detail>Sharpening tools
are very intuitive. Hit Shift+Opt/Alt and pull your
sliders to target affected surfaces and edges.
Adjusting the Exposure slider can eradicate

texture detail. Remedy this by applying the Fill
Light tool. Be careful as this may cause haloing
to appear. Luckily this is an easy fix by selecting
Lens Correction>Remove Chromatic Aberration.
Noise can become an unwanted knock-on effect

of sharpening. Fix it now using Detail>Noise
Reduction. Set lower values in the Luminance
sliders for smoother effects, but dont overdo it as
this can create unwanted synthetic effects.
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Specify colour temperature by simply selecting

the White Balance tool and click the midtones in
an image. ACR will give you what it believes to
be the right settings, but these can easily be finetuned using the Temperature and Tint sliders.
All settings give you the best-possible base image

to work with. Hold Shift and press Open Object.
Your RAW file is opened in the Photoshop layers
panel as a Smart Object. Double click this to
reactivate the ACR interface and adjust settings.
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Rescue your
old photos
Before
Breathe new life into old and tattered images by giving them some
digital love and care, with easy-to-use Photoshop tools
Reapply make up
Get rid of dust
Reduce noise
Use a low opacity paintbrush

to reapply the subjects
makeup, concentrating on the
lips and eyes.
To complement this filter

effect, add the Despeckle
filter to combat any remaining
particles and debris.
Apply a Noise Reduction

filter to minimise the grain
in the image and refine the
overall effect.
Before
Brighten it up
Sharpen the lines
Improve skin
Restore the colour and vibrance

of the image with adjustment
layers that balance the colour
and increase the contrast.
Reconstruct edges around

the face and neck using the
Clone Stamp tool, zooming
into the image to see details.
Use the Spot Healing Brush

tool to clean up scratches and
marks on your subjects face
by blending them into skin.
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Remove scratches
Fill in scratched areas with the
Clone Stamp tool, sampling
surrounding pixels to fill in the
missing information.
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Repair with the right tools
Fill in the gaps
Select a small brush to

accurately fill in the pixels
in the affected areas that lie
close to the defined lines.
1: Prepare your
image
Blend the background

For a better blend, choose a
large soft brush and sweep
over large areas of damage
on plain backgrounds.
Use the source

Remember to hold down Opt/Alt
and then click to sample nearby
pixels as often as possible when
painting with the Clone Stamp tool.
Efficiency is key
Reconstruct detail
Use existing lines and material to

help you rebuild missing details
such as the jumper sleeve.
hanks to the modern digital age, your

favourite old images are no longer
destined to a life of slow disintegration
inside old albums and frames.
Snapshots that are in bad shape can be
given a new lease of life with a few simple
restoration techniques. The first step is to
scan in your images to get a digital version
for you to work on. Most new home scanners
will do this very well, but if you havent got one
then head to a professional printing shop for
some help and advice.
There are many ways to tackle an ailing
image once youve got it onto your computer.
However, there are a few key tools that you
should keep close by. The most useful ones,
Instead of going back and

forth changing your brush
size from the Options bar,
use this easy shortcut
instead. While youre using
the Clone Stamp tool, or the
Healing Brush tool, increase
the size of its brush by using
the right square bracket on
your keyboard. Conversely,
make the brush smaller
with the left square bracket.
Constantly changing brush
size while youre working on
areas of your image will give
you a much cleaner and
more professional result.
namely the Clone Stamp, Healing Brush and

Patch tools, work so well because theyve
all been designed to reconstruct areas of an
image using information from nearby pixels.
Common touch-ups include removing
cracks, speckles and blemishes, and also
filling in the broken pieces of an image. It
doesnt stop there, though, and we take you
through additional techniques that include
restoring colour to photographs, fixing lighting
with adjustment layers and applying filters
that will bring out the best in your old images.
While some techniques require a little more
time and attention than others, once you see
your worn image in a new light youll know
that all this effort was well worth the wait.
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Open up your
damaged file in
Photoshop. Ctrl/rightclick the background
layer and select
Duplicate to make a
copy. Name the layer
Background Copy.
2: Select tool
Select the Clone

Stamp tool (S) in the
left-hand toolbar (with
Pattern Stamp) and
select a size of 90px,
or small enough to fit
inside your damaged
area, and set the
Hardness to 20%.
3: Apply the
Clone Stamp
Sample a similar
colour to a missing
area of the image
from nearby pixels by
holding Opt/Alt, and
clicking. Paint in the
damaged area. Keep
resampling pixels.
4: Now repeat
the process
Use the same

method to fill in any
other missing areas
of your image. Zoom
in and change your
brush size as you go
to give better results
for different areas.
5: Final
touches
Once missing areas

have been patched up,
clean up blemishes
and spots with the
Healing Brush tool (J).
Sample similar pixels
and then paint over
these areas.
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Dust and speckle removal
Revive aged images
Old images are often marred by dust and

imperfections. Grain and dust can appear on
photos if the lens or film that was used was a
bit dirty. It can also be the result of dust on the
surface of a photograph when you scanned
it in. Noise denotes the tiny speckles that are
often found in images taken in low light.
Luckily, Photoshop has two filters, namely

Noise Reduction and Dust & Scratches,
that scan the image for debris and then
work to remove it. When finished, its
always a good idea to give the photo a
final once-over with the Healing Brush
tool to remove any missed speckles.
1: Duplicate background
Open up your image in Photoshop and

duplicate the background layer by selecting
Layer>Duplicate Layer. Name the layer
Background Copy. This is good practice for any
image you are restoring, as the original image is
preserved while you edit.
2: Noise filter
Before
3: Lessen the noise
Go back to the Filter menu and this time select

Filter>Noise>Reduce Noise. Set the Strength
to 8, Preserve Details to 10%, Reduce Color
Noise to 70% and Sharpen Details to 30%, then
hit OK. Youll notice the speckles reduce.
4: Healing Brush
Select the Spot Healing Brush tool from the

left-hand toolbar and choose a brush size of
40px. Go over your image and individually fix up
dust and scratches that sit on the main areas,
especially on people.
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From the top menu, select Filter>Noise>

Dust & Scratches. Set the Radius to 13 and
the Threshold to 73, then click OK. Youll see a
loading bar and, depending on the size of your
image and the scale of the adjustment, it may
take a while for the filter to process.
5: Crop down
Select the Crop tool (C) from the toolbar and use
the grid overlay options to judge the centre of the
image. Use the handles to specify where to crop
and hit Return once youre happy with it. Use this
to remove rough edges too.
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Banish the blemish
Use the Healing Brush tools
Whether its coffee cup stains or accidental

water marks, many old images suffer
from unsightly blotches that ruin a
good photo. A mixture of the Healing
Brush options and the Clone Stamp tool
is the best way to repair the damage.
Scan in old photographs
The key to getting it right is to work slowly

and methodically through each blemished area.
The Healing Brush options let you smooth over
damaged areas, while the Clone Stamp tool is
a good option to reconstruct heavily affected
areas of the photo.
1: Scanner choice
All-in-one printers are a good option for

scanning images. Ensure the image youre
scanning is relatively flat, too, and if youre
image is buckled, or has suffered damage,
first flatten it between two books overnight.
Before
1: Prepare your image
Open your image and duplicate the background

layer. Before you start working on making any
edits, have a closer look at the image and identify
where the problem areas are. This tool is best for
large areas.
2: Scan resolution
Place your photograph image side down onto

the scanner and close the top. If you have
a photo scanning option, select it and then
choose a high DPI between 300 and 1200.
2: Spot Healing
Select the Spot Healing Brush tool and check

the blend mode is set to Normal. Select a brush
size of 70px and set Hardness to 80%. Paint over
marks and blemishes until theyre gone.
4: Switch brush
Select the Healing Brush tool (under Spot Healing

Brush) and work on larger areas. Set brush size
to 70px and Hardness to 20px. Sample an area of
fabric by Opt/Alt-clicking, then fill in the areas.
3: Smaller edits
Resize the brush to 50px and continue to click on

small blemishes and marks across the face, as
well as on the plain areas of clothing. Keep the
brush size as small as possible.
5: Clone pixels
To clean up the stains, switch to the Clone Stamp

tool. Set Hardness to 100% to be able to draw in
small details behind the marks. Zoom right into
the area and work carefully through each section.
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3: Batch scanning
Hit Scan and wait for the scanner to process

the image. It may take a couple of minutes
with large photographs. If you have a batch of
images simply continue scanning them in.
4: View and save
Your image should automatically save to your

scanners default folder. Select the image and
choose Save As to save in another location,
ready to open in Photoshop.
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Restore tone and colour
Give lacklustre hues and faded shades a new meaning
Colour is often the first thing to go off in prints, and orange tints
and faded colours are all too common in aging images. Tone and
colour can be restored with a number of techniques, for example using
adjustment layers to bring vitality back. Hand-colouring techniques
introduce brightness into monochrome images even if it wasnt
originally there.
The trick to achieving natural results is to accept the limitations of the

photographs that you are working with. If you push the colours too far
then you may end up with an oversaturated result that can look a little
jarring rather than beautifully restored. In fact, a good fix for a coloured
image that has seen better days is to simply convert it to a deliberate
black and white!
Colour with
adjustment layers
Before
Adjustment layers are

perfect if you have an
image that requires a
mixed treatment to get
it back to its best, and
spending some time
finding out what it needs
is the best approach. Start
with a Color Balance
adjustment layer to remove
any colour casts, such
as orange in this image.
Next, add a Brightness/
Contrast adjustment layer
to bring up dull colours.
Finally, add a Hue/
Saturation adjustment
layer to deepen the
colours. Switch between
these three adjustments
to tweak your image until
youre happy with it.
Remove colour
casts
Before
Hand-colouring
technique
Before
Bring a little colour to an

old black and white image
by colouring it by hand
in Photoshop. One of the
easiest methods is to
simply use a paintbrush.
First, change the Mode
of your image to a
colour one by selecting
Image>Mode>CMYK
Color. Now select a
paintbrush and set its
Mode to Color as well. Set
the tools Opacity to 80%
and use the Color Picker
menu to select a hue.
Zoom into your image to
catch the detail and start
painting, switching brush
size as you go.
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Colour casts are common

in film images and can
usually be identified by a
blue or orange tinge. They
are often caused by certain
types of lights when the
photo is taken, or the way
the film was developed.
The cast can be
neutralised by adding a
new adjustment layer to
the image by selecting
Layer>New Adjustment
Layer and then choosing
Color Balance. Assess
which colour is causing the
problem and then use the
different sliders, and a bit
of colour theory, to
neutralise it. For a blue
cast, for example, add
more yellow.
Go monochrome
Before
A seemingly easy way

to turn an image black
and white is to change
the Mode to Grayscale
from the Image menu.
While this gets the job
done, you have no control
over how the image
looks and so this should
be avoided. A better
way to do it is to add a
new adjustment layer
(Layer>New Adjustment
Layer) to your image and
select Channel Mixer. In
the pop-up dialog box,
tick Monochrome and
then use the Red, Green
and Blue channels to
play around with the final
effect to your image.
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Fix exposure
Balance over and underexposed vintage images
Before the days of smart exposures and auto

settings, creating a well-lit image required
a bit more foresight. Luckily, in this digital
age with the ability to scan in our old images
and use image editing software, we can fix
the lighting errors of the past and restore old
photos. Adjustment layers are a fantastic option
to fix up lighting, but when were balancing out
an image we need to apply an adjustment to
sort out areas one at a time. We can do this

with the help of masks. Quick Mask Mode
is essential for fixing exposure as it isolates
the problem areas. Essentially just another
form of selection, masks are an easy way to
demarcate an area of a photograph to apply an
adjustment. Masks edit non-destructively, and
work by painting over areas to remove from the
effect of the adjustment being applied.
Fix fades
You can mend an old photos dog-eared corners
and faded edges by using the Gradient tool (G) in
Quick Mask Mode, which isolates problem areas.
Create a new adjustment layer that will apply only
to the damaged section. Levels and Exposure are
two useful adjustments for fades, and youll need
a good eye to judge when youve matched the
shade. Be sure to feather the edges of your mask
to blend the effects into the image.
1: Quick Mask Mode
Before
2: Mask and adjust
Determine which areas of your old photo

need to be lightened and darkened to
correct it, then use the Brush tool (B) to paint
over these areas. Exit Quick Mask Mode
to view this as a selection. Then, select
Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Brightness/
Contrast, then increase the Brightness level.
3: Repeat and adjust
Next, switch back into Quick Mask Mode. Now

mask out any underexposure in your image,
ensuring that you have a soft brush selected.
Select Layer>New Adjustment Layer and this
time choose Levels from the list of options.
Balance out the levels of the underexposed area
of the image.
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Open up your image in Photoshop and duplicate

the Background layer. Enter Quick Mask Mode
by selecting the small icon in the toolbar (or press
Q). While in this mode, select a large soft brush to
prepare to mask your image.
4: Clean up and balance
The select the Clone Stamp tool from the lefthand toolbar to clean up any debris and marks in
the image, especially in the corners where they
might be faded. Add a final Levels adjustment
layer to balance out the image. Finally add the
Smart Sharpen filter (Filter>Sharpen) to bring out
details in the image.
Photoshop Creative
tri Spe
al ci
of al
fe
r
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Photography
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Volume 2
Everything you need to get more from your camera

Camera
skills
In-depth guides to help you master all
popular genres of photography and
to develop your camera techniques
Creative projects
Simple step-by-step tutorials

for creative photo projects that
will make your shots stand out
Essential
fixes
Get to grips with imageediting to improve and
enhance your photos
VOLUME 2
GUIDE
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GUIDE

Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes Vol. 2

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What are the different genres of photography covered in the book?

What are the different genres of photography covered in the book?

What techniques are discussed for improving photos through editing?

What techniques are discussed for improving photos through editing?

Landscapes  Portraits Black and white  Macro

Unlock the potential of your photographs

hints & tips

Imagine Publishing Ltd

Capture stunning landscapes

Shoot beautiful portraits

90 Create a lens flare

146 Recompose problem photos

150 Simple ways to edit your

154 Fix animal compositions

186 Rescue your

Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes 7

8 Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes

Look at the way the light

Go outside and see what

Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes 9

50 photography tips & tricks

3: Shoot against simple backgrounds

Try to use white or grey backgrounds in the studio. A charismatic

Make sure that you

Dont be too dominant,

Find out what

Visually assess people

All images Terry ONeill

50 photography tips & tricks

Never tell a woman she

Make sure that you

10: Get the

Its important to buy

11: Know when

12: Use just

There is no point taking

Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes 11

50 photography tips & tricks

People go to the same places as Joe Cornish and get

14: Manage your time

Dont drive a hundred miles only to find that the tide

15: Work on your own

Go to places on your own and get in touch with your

16: Learn from others

Find another visual artist who is willing to share their

You can research all the elements of a place and plan

18: If you cant buy it, make it

You can make homemade filters out of stockings, tea

19: Dont be a one-lens Photographer

20: Develop your own style

12 Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes

All images Paul Sanders

Occasionally leave your favourite lens at home and

50 photography tips & tricks

Clockwise from left:

Photography Tips, Tricks & Fixes 13

50 photography tips & tricks

22: Experiment with long exposures

21: Rise early

All images Jonathan Chritchley

Landscapes Portraits Black and white Macro