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    Moving Dart in Princess Line

    Uploaded by

    JanF
    This document provides an improved method for pivoting a princess dart into a side dart when drafting sloper patterns. The key steps are: 1) Lower the bust point and end of the waist dart by 1/2" to establish a new slash line. 2) Measure back from the new bust point the same distance as between the bust point and end of the waist dart to determine the pivot point Z. 3) Cut the paper along the slash line from the bust point to the pivot point Z. 4) Pivot the princess dart out around point Z, which will create the side dart without excess fullness at the bust point.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    Moving Dart in Princess Line

    Uploaded by

    JanF
    54 views5 pages
    This document provides an improved method for pivoting a princess dart into a side dart when drafting sloper patterns. The key steps are: 1) Lower the bust point and end of the waist dart by 1/2" to establish a new slash line. 2) Measure back from the new bust point the same distance as between the bust point and end of the waist dart to determine the pivot point Z. 3) Cut the paper along the slash line from the bust point to the pivot point Z. 4) Pivot the princess dart out around point Z, which will create the side dart without excess fullness at the bust point.

    Original Description:

    moving dart in princess line pattern

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    This document provides an improved method for pivoting a princess dart into a side dart when drafting sloper patterns. The key steps are: 1) Lower the bust point and end of the waist dart by 1/2" to establish a new slash line. 2) Measure back from the new bust point the same distance as between the bust point and end of the waist dart to determine the pivot point Z. 3) Cut the paper along the slash line from the bust point to the pivot point Z. 4) Pivot the princess dart out around point Z, which will create the side dart without excess fullness at the bust point.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    54 views5 pages

    Moving Dart in Princess Line

    Uploaded by

    JanF
    This document provides an improved method for pivoting a princess dart into a side dart when drafting sloper patterns. The key steps are: 1) Lower the bust point and end of the waist dart by 1/2" to establish a new slash line. 2) Measure back from the new bust point the same distance as between the bust point and end of the waist dart to determine the pivot point Z. 3) Cut the paper along the slash line from the bust point to the pivot point Z. 4) Pivot the princess dart out around point Z, which will create the side dart without excess fullness at the bust point.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 5

    IMPROVED SIDE DART METHOD FOR THE SLOPERS:

    I found that, when pivoting the princess (shoulder) dart into a side dart from
    the moulage, many times Id get a slight fullness at the point of the side dart near
    the bust point. This can be fitted out, but not making it occur in the first place is my
    goal.
    So, I discovered this method, which
    flies in the face of the classic dart pivoting
    method. But it works, so here goes:

    Lower the moulage bust point X to X,


    and the end of the waist dart Y to Y,
    by 1/2(1,2cm).

    Draw your slash line as you do in the CD


    text, by first measuring up from the waist
    by 1/3 distance,, then connecting this point
    to the new bust point X.

    Page 1

    Measure back along the slash line, from


    X, to Z, the same distance that X is
    from Y.
    This will make both darts end the same
    distance from the bust point.
    Cut the paper from X to Z. Point Z will
    be the pivot point for the dart pivoting.

    Now, cut the rest of the slash line


    from the side seam to point Z.
    Leave a bit of paper at point Z, for
    pivoting.

    Page 2

    Pivot out the princess (shoulder) dart


    by matching F with F. This will spread
    the paper at the side, creating the side
    dart.
    The paper will overlap, between
    point X and Z.

    Re-draft your shoulder line, and you


    are now finished. The dart will end
    smoothly, with no excess at the end.

    Page 3

    D-CUP VARIATION:
    The D-cup variation is handled in a similar
    manner to the regular sloper, with some exceptions:

    Do NOT lower the bust point, and the end of the


    waist dart by the 1/2.

    To establish the slash line for the side dart, measure


    down 1/3 way from the underarm, instead of 1/3 way
    up from the waist.

    Measure back from the bust point by the


    same distance from L to L, to get point Z.
    Cut the paper from point L. to point Z.
    Then cut the paper from point E to point Z,
    leaving paper at Z, to pivot with.

    Page 4

    Pivot the shoulder dart into the slash line, pivoting at


    point Z. This will spread the paper at the side seam,
    creating the legs of the dart, points E and F.
    The paper will overlap near the bust point L, as
    shown in the shaded area.

    Finally, re-draft the shoulder line, as


    shown.

    Page 5

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