Ship'S Manual

SHIP'S MANUAL
Longship Company, Ltd.
Markland Medieval Mercenary Militia

1987
Copyright © 1987 by The Longship Company, Ltd.
Copying without fee is permitted provided that the copies are not made or distributed for
profit and credit to the source is given. Abstracting with credit is permitted. For further
information contact:
The Longship Company, Ltd.

Oakley Farm,
Avenue, Md. 20609
Contents
Foreword iii
Acknowledgements iv
1. Parts of the Ships 1

1.1 Rigging 1
1.2 Mast and sail 2
1.3 Stepping and unstepping the mast 2
1.4 Knots 3
2. Crew 9
2.1 Officers 9
2.2 Orders 10
2.3 Duties and rights of the Crew 10
2.4 Ratings 11
2.5 Demotions 12
3. Equipment to Bring 13
3.1 Basic Necessities 13
3.2 Necessities for extended voyages 13
3.3 Options 14
3.4 Food/Provisions 14
3.5 Clothing 15
3.6 What not to bring 15
4. Stowage 17
4.1 Personal Gear 17
4.2 Ship’s gear 18
4.3 Stowing everything away when done sailing 19
SHIP'S MANUAL i
5. Operations 21
5.1 Readying the ship for a voyage 21
5.2 Launching 22
5.3 Docking 22
5.4 Operational stations 24
5.5 Rowing and rowing commands 25
5.6 Sailing stations and commands 30
5.7 Point system 33
5.8 Rights of way 34
5.9 Use of Mast and Anchor Lights and legal requirements 34
5.10 Use of the Faering 36
5.11 Trailering the faering 37
6. Safety 39
6.1 Hypothermia 39
6.2 Heat stroke and salt loss 39
6.3 Sudden unexpected bad weather 40
6.4 Man overboard 41
6.5 Emergency signaling devices 41
6.6 Knockdown, capsize, or collision 42
6.7 Fire 42
A. Glossary 43
B. Bibliography 45
B.1 Books 45
B.2 Motion Pictures 45
Errata 46
ii SHIP'S MANUAL
Foreword
S
ome of you grew up with and on sailing and power
boats. Others have never set foot on a water-craft
before. Yet others have learned all your seaman-
ship aboard Viking vessels. No matter how much experi-
ence you have, or where you obtained it, we all need more
practice, experience and education.
O
wing to the relative scarcity of Viking vessels at
this point in history, the opportunity to hone your
skills on one presents itself far too infrequently.
For that reason (among others), this manual has been
written in an attempt to distill down the wisdom obtained
— sometimes painfully — from our experience over the
course of 15 years and three vessels.
W
e hope that we have made it comprehensive
enough that a first-time member, through
diligent study, can tell one pointy end from the
other. (end of the ship, that is) We also hope that even our
most experienced members will find that the manual will
refresh their techniques or provide further useful informa-
tion.
T
his manual is also intended to document the orga
nizational structure of the crew, and the responsi
bilities of individual crewmembers.
L
astly, we have tried not to take ourselves too
seriously, because we must not lose sight of the
fact that we’re here to have fun, as well as to teach
others and learn for ourselves. On the whole, we feel that
this manual reflects the spirit of the Longship Company:
We're all in the same boat together, so take care of

each other, take care of the ships, and they will take
care of you.
SHIP'S MANUAL iii

Acknowledgements
This is the third version of the Longship Company Ship’s

Manual to be published. It is based — in part — on the
second edition, but also includes much new material.
Particular thanks go to Bruce Blackistone for most of the
procedural material, Ceecy Nucker for the section on
ratings, Bruce Becker for the checklists and Curt Harpold
for the section on knots. The section on safety includes
Material from the Coast Guard Auxiliary publication:
Sailingand Seamanship (third edition) which has been
used by permission, and material from the publication:
Family Guide Emergency Health Care (1970 printing), of
the U. S. Department of Health, Education, and Welfare,
which has been used without permission. Numerous other
people — most of whom I can’t name anyway — have
provided valuable comments and caught errors.
Fred Blonder (Editor),

September, 921 A.H.
iv SHIP'S MANUAL
1. Parts of the Ships
1.1 Rigging
Mast
Backstay
Forestay
Port
Fore Shroud
Rigging
Block Yard Starboard
Shroud
Forward Aft Oar Rack

Oar Rack
Starboard Port
Rigging Rigging
Block Block
LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 1

1.2 Mast and sail
HAYLYARD
BLOCK
ROBBINS
YARD
HEAD
PORT
HALYARD STARBORD
HAYLYARD
LUFF
MAST (To Windard)
LEECH Wind
(To Leewards)
FOOT
STARBORD
BRACE
Mast Bench
PORT CLEAT
SHEET
PORT
BRACE
STARBORD
BEATIAS SHEET
POLE
MAST
BLOCK
1.3 Stepping and unstepping the mast
Because of its length, stepping and unstepping the Fyrdraca’s mast

is a ticklish operation, usually involving five people. Person #1 holds
the forestay with a 20' extension for control as the mast eases up or
back. It helps if person #1 is on a dock or the land, for maximum
control and leverage. Persons #2 and #3 are stationed one each
side of the mast, to lift or lower, and maintain the mast in a vertical
position relative to the beam. It is considered uncouth for them to
allow the mast to topple overboard sideways. Person #4 is sta-
tioned on the next thwart aft and helps to control the mast while it is
within his reach. Person #5 is as aft and as high as is practical and
safe; this person helps align the mast at the beginning of the
operation, and starts by lifting the mast and moving forward as the
end moves out-of-reach.
If more people are available, add persons #6 and #7 to handle the
Page 2 LONG SHIP MANUAL

port and starboard shrouds, and #8 to assist #2 and #3 and brace
the butt of the mast as needed. The more the merrier.
The mast weighs 70 lbs. and its center of gravity is several feet
above your head when the mast is upright. It is important that you
respect the forces conspiring to bring it down on top of you, and the
damage it can cause. No one should attempt to move the mast
without announcing their intentions first, and being sure that every-
one heard them. Spectators should be kept at a safe distance.
By custom, a silver coin is placed beneath the mast. It makes an
interesting conversation piece after it has been ground flat from a
season of sailing.
All standing rigging should be cast off last, before lowering the
mast, and set up as soon as possible after raising it.
Stepping and unstepping the Gyrfalcon’s mast is trivial by compari-

son. It requires only one person. The only thing to remember is that
the square tab is the bottom, and is to be inserted into the matching
hole in the mast fish.
1.4 Knots
There are three categories of knots. Those used to tie the ends of
two ropes together are called bends. They are generally sound
even when the ropes are of different sizes. Hitches are used to tie a
rope to any other object. Knots tied in the length of a single rope
without direct application of or to anything else are the only class
which are properly termed knots.
1.4.1 Figure of Eight Knot

This knot is useful as a stopper knot to prevent a line from running
through a hole. It is better than an overhand knot because it is
easier to unite. The figure of eight is used to make the steerboard
fast to the wart of the Gyrfalcon.

1.4.2 Reef Knot
The reef knot should be used only to contain an outward pushing
load, such as the rolled portion at the foot of a reefed sail (oddly
enough). This know must never be used as a bend, since it may
easily be ‘spilled’ and slip off. This knot consists simply of two
overhand knots in opposite directions. With a third overhand, this
knot is used to attach a sail to a yard.
1.4.3 Sheepshank
A useful and reliable way to take up unwanted slack in a line
without having to disturb the ends.
1.4.4 Bowline
This is probably the single most useful knot to know. Anywhere a
temporary loop is needed in a line, a bowline will do the job. The
bowline is easy to tie, and will not jam.

1.4.5 Strangle Knot
A good general-purpose binding knot. It is frequently used in the
end of a coiled line to bind the coil. When tied in small line or
thread and hauled tight, it is very difficult to untie and may have to
be cut off.
1.4.6 Round Turn and Two Half Hitches

An excellent general purpose hitch, frequently used to hitch a
mooring line to a thwart, or for making the Gyrfalcon fast to her
trailer. The round turn is important, as it keeps the half hitches from
being drawn up hard against the post.

1.4.7 Clove Hitch
An easily made and practical hitch, useful when the direction of the
pull is fairly constant. It is excellent for hanging things from a bar.
Used with two half hitches to hitch the halyards to the yard.
1.4.8 Rolling Hitch (or Magnus Hitch)

Like a Clove Hitch with an overriding turn, this hitch is the only one
which may be used on a smooth surface of something which might
roll. Used to hitch the braces to the yard.
1.4.9 Sheet Bend

If you only learn one bend, this is should be the one. Holds fast
even when the lines to be joined are of different sizes and types.
Generally used on shipboard to attach a heaving line to a mooring
line.

1.4.10 Double Sheet Bend
Doubling the Sheet Bend will prevent it from slipping. If the bend is
to remain tied for a long time, this is better than a single Sheet
Bend.

2. Crew
Voyages will be undertaken only with a proper crew aboard. For the
Fyrdraca, this will consist of a captain, a mate or someone rated
able, and at least three others. For the Gyrfalcon, this will consist of
a captain and one to four others.
2.1 Officers
A qualified captain and mate must be aboard for all voyages. They
may appoint the coxswain, steersman, boatswain, yeoman and
lookouts as required, from those crew members rated able or
higher.
2.1.1 Captain
Has the ultimate responsibility for the safety and welfare of the
vessel and crew. The captain has absolute authority while the craft
is under way. If you see something he doesn’t, tell him, but if you
question a command, carry out the order while asking your ques-
tion.
2.1.2 Mate
The mate’s authority is equal to the captain’s, with the exception
that the captain may countermand an order from the mate. The
mate holds command upon notice from the captain, and will assist
the captain at all other times.
2.1.3 Boatswain (bos’n)

Supervises the secure stowage of all gear, which affects not only
the ship’s appearance, but the safety of the craft as well. If some-
thing is needed quickly, the boatswain must know where to get it.
Also in charge of line-handling and rigging.
2.1.4 Yeoman
Keeps the log, recording navigational points, time, general notes,
and a roster of the crew and officers. The yeoman will also act as
purser, collecting and paying any dockage fees or fuel bills, and
recording them in the log.

2.1.5 Steersman (also Helmsman)
Handles the tiller in the absence of the captain or mate. Must be
capable of maintaining course. Maintains a general lookout. May
give rowing commands when required to maneuver the ship in
situations where the steerboard is insufficient.
2.1.6 Lookout
Reports anything which may affect the ship or the voyage. Usually
stationed at the bow. This position is especially important while the
sail is up, since it may obscure the view from the helm. Additionally,
all crew members are expected to report anything of possible
consequence. Never assume someone in command sees a pos-
sible danger.
2.1.7 Coxswain (cox’n)

Establishes the rowing rhythm to be followed by the rest of the
crew while rowing, by chanting or singing. The coxswain is the
aftmost rower on the port side, unless otherwise appointed by the
captain.
2.1.8 Bilgemaster
Generally responsible for the condition of the bilge. Bails, or ap-
points and supervises other crew members to bail the ship as
needed. Inspects and maintains bilge pumps, and removes foreign
objects (i.e. potato chips) from the bilge before they can clog the
pumps.
2.2 Orders
Orders are given by the captain or the mate, with the captain having
final authority. In addition, orders may be given by other
Crewmembers supervising particular tasks, such as the steersman
issuing rowing commands, or the lookout issuing emergency
commands to avoid an obstruction.
Orders will always be clearly indicated as orders. Any sentence
beginning with “I think we should . . .” or “I wonder what would
happen if . . . ” is not an order.
Orders may be preceded by a qualification such as “port side” or ,
to indicate that the order applies to only certain Crewmembers. For
this reason it is important to always know where you are within the
ship. This may sound silly, but when things get chaotic, it’s easy to
lose track.

2.3 Duties and rights of the Crew
Everyone is expected to row if physically possible, however noone

will be asked to exert themselves beyond their capabilities. It is the
responsibility of the captain to be aware of the limitations of the
crew, and not risk a situation where he must depend on abilities
which the crew doesn’t have. The captain and mate are expected to
row occasionally as well. Guests may be excused from this require-
ment.
While under way, the crew will obey any order by a ship’s officer,
instantly.
The crew has a voice in the conduct of the voyage. The captain
should consider their opinions in his overall plans, and if the con-
sensus is to return to port, or discontinue a voyage after adverse
conditions, he should follow that opinion. The ability of the crew is
more important than the ability of the captain.
All crew members are responsible for the proper stowage of their
gear, and the maintenance of any ship’s equipment they are using.
Crew members who are not rowing, are encouraged to take a turn
at the tiller, under the supervision of an officer, or to serve as
lookout.
The use of alcohol during a voyage will be controlled. The boat gets
a lot more cramped when somebody’s drunk, and the captain has
one fewer effective crew members to rely on. Cigarettes burn holes
in nylon sails; cigarette smoking is strongly discouraged. The use of
drugs not prescribed by your doctor is forbidden.
Crew and officers will treat each other with due respect, as equals
with assigned responsibilities. It does no good to bully the crew or
give the captain a bad time, when next voyage the situation may be
reversed.
2.4 Ratings
In order that captains may better know the abilities of their crew, the
following classification has been established:
2.4.1 Non-Rated
People who haven’t been on the ship, or whose qualifications are
otherwise unknown Ordinary Two day trips or one overnighter;
follows rowing commands in proper terminology. Approved by one
captain.
2.4.2 Able
Three voyages per year; shows fair knowledge of sail handling,
knots, ground tackle, etc. in a practical exam, and be capable of

giving or translating commands. Needs approval of two captains.
2.4.3 Mate
Rating of able plus an emergency first aid course and the capability
to independently operate the Gyrfalcon and to operate the
Fyrdraca enough to get to port in case of a captain’s incapacitation.
Needs approval of two captains.
2.4.4 Captain
Rating of mate plus a current (taken within the last three years)
first-aid course; the Coast Guard or USPS course; captaincy
voyage; passage of a written exam; dues not more than one year
in arrears. Three captains must approve this rating after a notice
that this person is pending approval, has been posted.
Bosun, Cox’n, Lookout and Yeoman will be appointed from able or
higher rated crewmen by the captain in charge of the voyage.
2.5 Demotions
1 If a person is one year behind in dues, and has been inactive for
one year, his rating will be dropped to ordinary.
2 Persons can be demoted for malfeasance by three-captain
courts martial after posted notice. A person so accused has the
option of accepting a published notice of the demotion in lieu of
the court martial. (equivalent to entering a “guilty” plea)
Ratings lost through a category (1) demotion may be restored by
complying with the standards for that rating. Ratings lost through a
category (2) demotion may be restored by the captains.

3. Equipment to Bring
3.1 Basic Necessities
+ Life Vest (PFD) - Required by the Coast Guard. If you don’t own
one, the captain must make sure there are enough company-
owned vests for all Crewmembers who don’t have one of their
own. (Classy folks own their own, giving them another surface to
decorate.)
+ Rowing Gloves - Cotton Painter’s gloves or gardening gloves.
The type with plastic dots on them are particularly good.
+ Water - A canteen if you have one, or plastic two-liter soft-drink
bottles. (since we have bags designed to hold them) Figure on
drinking a gallon on a full-day trip in hot weather. It’s better to
have more water along than you plan to drink, since it has other
uses as well.
+ Sunscreen Lotion, hat, sunglasses - Only you are familiar with
how you react to sunlight, so it’s up to you to decide what
precautions to take. Remember: we may get stuck out longer
than planned, and there is no shelter on the ship, no trees to
provide shade, and water on all sides to reflect even more
sunlight onto you.
+ Food (on voyages longer than an hour or so) - Things which
won’t spoil without refrigeration: fruit, hard cheeses, hard salami,
bread, etc.
+ Towel - A towel is the most massively useful object a Viking can
carry. You can wrap it around an oar loom for additional padding.
You can fold it into a pad and sit on it. You can hide from the sun
underneath it. You can soak it with water and hide from the sun
underneath it, and — if it still seems clean enough — you can
dry yourself off with it. A Viking should always know where his
towel is.
+ Knapsack or duffel bag (waterproof if possible) - To keep every-
thing together. A popular way to stow knapsacks is to fasten the
shoulder straps around a thwart, suspending the bag beneath
the thwart.
+ Knife - Generally useful for a lot of things. Choose one for its
practicality, not just because it’s flashy.

3.2 Necessities for extended voyages
In addition to the above, the following are needed for overnight

voyages:
+ Rain Poncho - Better safe than sorry.
+ Complete change of clothes - For when you get wet anyway.
+ Heavy Sweater - It gets cold at night.
+ Toothbrush, washcloth, toilet paper, etc. - For the sake of your
fellow crewmen.
+ Quilt and/or Blanket - These dry more quickly than sleeping
bags.
+ $10 - $15 - For incidental expenses and dock fees.
+ Insect Repellent
+ Flashlight - Preferably with a red filter and waterproof.
+ Extra rowing gloves - For when you drop the first pair in the
bilge. Also, there’s usually someone who needs to borrow a pair.
3.3 Options
+ Trash bag - You’d be surprised how much trash we can produce

during a voyage.
+ Camera
+ Pad to sit on - The rowing benches are hard.
+ Bathing suit - In case you feel like swimming, or if you find
yourself swimming whether you want to or not.
3.4 Food/Provisions
3.4.1 Edibles
+ Extra Water
+ Soft Drinks in cans or plastic (not glass) bottles
+ Bread (Rolls or homemade is better than sliced loaf.)
+ Crackers & snacks
+ Canned meat or corned beef
+ Hard cheese
+ Instant tea or coffee
+ Thermos jugs with hot tea & honey, hot chocolate, soup or stew
+ Summer sausage or hard salami

3.4.2 Utensils
+ Can opener
+ Eating utensils
+ Bota (wineskin)
+ Waterproof matches
+ Soup pot (1 per 2 - 3 bodies, if overnight shore stops are
planned)
3.5 Clothing
The boat is open, so you won’t be protected from the weather, and
there are usually no convenient trees or hills to break the wind.
Assume that whatever the weather is, it’s going to be more so on
the boat. Be prepared for out-of-season weather. It can be hot in
November or bone-chilling in August.
3.5.1 Cold Weather

Layer your clothing so you can remove outer layers while rowing,
and replace them while resting. Remember: wool will keep you
warm even when it’s wet.
3.5.2 Hot weather

Long loose clothing is usually preferable, for protection from the
sun. Hats, visors or other headgear are also useful. A sweater,
sweatshirt or light jacket is useful for evening cool.
3.6 What not to bring
Paper bags, cardboard or glass containers, potato chips (These get

wet or break, and can clog the bilge pumps.) heirlooms, expensive
watches, any book you respect (Bring a disreputable book, such as
this one.)
Expect everything to get wet. It may not, but assume that it will.

4. Stowage
The Bos’n supervises stowage aboard our vessels, however it is

everyone’s responsibility as well. When a piece of equipment is
needed, it is usually needed immediately; we don’t always have
time for a leisurely search. When it is not needed, it may find itself
in the way of something else. If you are not using something, put it
away. It may not seem urgent, but if you are suddenly needed to
perform some task, you may not have time to go back and stow
something correctly.
4.1 Personal Gear
For normal day trips a small knapsack or other small simple seabag
will suffice to hold all of your personal gear and provisions. If it has
shoulder straps, they can be used to suspend it beneath a thwart:
out-of-the-way and out-of-the-bilge.
On more extensive voyages (overnighters or multi-day events) the
Straps to fasten to thwarts
Pocketed
Flaps
Drawstring
Closure
Plywood board
in bottom
for stiffening

use of Bork-bags is recommended. These were developed by
James Lande (Bork) to facilitate stowage aboard the Fyrdraca. A
Bork-bag is an 11" x 11" x 11" cubical bag with straps attached to
the top, allowing it to be slung beneath a thwart. Pocketed flaps
covering openings at front and rear help keep the contents dry
while allowing easy access, and provide convenient storage for
small items. They should be made from a durable water-resistant
material such as tent-canvas. Typically, one will suffice to carry
clothing and provisions for an overnighter, while 1Ω to 2 will hold
enough for an extended voyage. Bork-bags are also a good place
to store your sailing gear at home, so you can find it all in one place
when you plan to go out on the ship. (Remember to remove any
perishable items from the bag before you throw it in your closet,
though.)
Bow Base of mast

• Sounding Lead • Battery
• Binoculars
• Anchor(s) & line
• Heaving Line
• Dock Lines
• Flotation Cushion
• 2 Life Jackets
• Fire Extinguisher
Stern
• Anchor(s) & line
• Bilge pump battery
• Dock lines
• Sea chest
• Medical kit
Oar racks • Radio
•Oars • Ditty bag
• Spars • Log book
• Boathooks • Anchor light
• Compass
• Charts
• Ship’s bell
• Radar reflector
Under occupied • Binoculars
thwarts • Hand bilge pump
• Life Jackets • 2 Life jackets
• Flotation Cushion
• Fire Extinguisher
•Tool bag

4.2 Ship’s gear
The Bos’n is in charge of insuring that the ship’s gear is well stowed
and accessible. (This is not a contradiction.) Woe betide the
Crewmember who leaves something loose so that it goes over-
board, or buries a critical piece of gear under their blanket roll.
4.3 Stowing everything away when done sailing
When all is said and done, and the voyage at an end, it still isn’t
done. Get your gear to the car, then help strip the ship. You are not
using it, so put it away. Do not sneak off and leave the hard work
for the faithful few. The captain can’t leave until everything is
squared away so the next captain and crew can find it. If everyone
pitches in, the job goes quickly. If you short people on this phase,
you may just end up on the short end yourself when you next want
to go out. Do it right each time and it will be right when you need it.

5. Operations
5.1 Readying the ship for a voyage
Before any voyage, the captain must insure that each of these
items has been performed:
- Give intro to ship — point out bow, stern, port, starboard, mast,
head (the one at the front) and other salient features of the ship.
- Assign watches
- Check equipment (see below)
- Review rowing commands (§ 5.5)
- Explain safety procedures
The captain must insure that each of these pieces of equipment has
been fetched, checked, or tested, as appropriate:
- Longship — one (1) Viking longship, 12-Oar class, floating
- Oars — one per anticipated rower, plus a couple spares
- Water — a gallon per crew member per day in hot weather
- Sail, sheets & braces — sail bent to the yard
- Anchor & Line
- Boat Hook
- Bilge Pump or Bucket
- Two Dock Lines — an absolute minimum
- Safety Equipment:
+ PFDs (Life Jackets) — One/Person + 2 throwing cushions.
Make locations known to the crew.
+ 3 Flares (NOT expired)
+ Weather Radio & Battery (test it)
+ Anchor & Masthead Lights (test them)
+ 2 Fire Extinguishers — Mounted in brackets, examine gauges
to be sure they’re in operable condition.
- Navigational Equipment:
+ Charts
+ Compass
+ Log Book, Writing implement & Timepiece

5.2 Launching
The Fyrdraca requires a travel-lift or crane to launch her. The lifting

straps should be run so that they pass across the points reinforced
by the 1st and 5th thwarts (indicated by an arrow marked on the
knees).
Make sure that the weep holes in the garboard strakes are properly
plugged. After the winter, the ship will take about 24 hours to swell
tight, so you’ll need to make some provision for leaving her in the
slings or having her pumped out.
5.3 Docking
When bringing a Viking vessel into dock, there are three main
points to remember:
1. When possible put the port side to the pier. This avoids fouling
the steerboard on pilings or planks. (It’s also why it’s called the
port side, remember?)
2. It is almost impossible to dock under sail. Even large merchant
vessels had oar ports, and we have brought the Fyrdraca in, in
calm conditions rowed by two men and a boy. Oars are sure and
forgiving.
3. When you’re at the oars, pay attention. Commands come quickly
in crowded harbors. When the order to ship oars is given, do it
fast and do it right. Captains have a tendency to shave things
close.
Once the bowmen have a hold on the pier, pilings, or such, it is time
to set the docklines. Docklines are never attached to the ship’s
cleats. The cleats are for running rigging and the steerboard.
Instead, take two round turns over an appropriate thwart and then
two half-hitches (§1.4.6). Run the line over the gunwale to the piling
or cleat on the pier. Alternatively: throw the eye over the piling and
adjust the line from inboard.
When docking, you must take the tide into account. Boats have
been mashed into pilings, trapped and sunk under docks, or left
hanging high and dry by their lines for neglect of this.
Proper tying-off of the ship is a matter of experience and judgment,
but the following procedures will give you something to go on.

5.3.1 Four point system
Dock
5.3.1.1 Low tide

Make sure the tide is, in fact, at low. Leave no more than a foot of
slack in each line, and make sure the ship doesn’t come near pier
or pilings.
5.3.1.2 High tide

Make sure it’s high. Leave plenty of slack. Then perform the shove
test: shove the vessel towards all four pilings — and any other fixed
objects — and make sure it doesn’t come closer than one foot to
them.
5.3.1.3 In between
Use your judgment, based on this information. Good luck.

5.3.2 When docked alongside
Dock
1 2 4 3 5 6
Please note: Not all of these lines are required in every situation.
1) Stern line 5) Bow breast line
2) Stern breast line 6) Bow line
3) Stern spring line 7) Fender
4) Bow spring line
As the occasion demands, run out bow lines, stern lines, spring
lines, breast lines, and fenders. Unless conditions allow two an-
chors to be set for a four-point system, a watch will have to be kept
for the tide.
5.4 Operational stations
Operating under oars in normal circumstances we should have a

captain or officer at the con, a lookout at the bow (or the best
location for visibility), a steersman at the helm, a yeoman at the log,
and a cox’n cheerily calling the stroke. The normal watch under
oars is divided into 3 watches: 40 minutes rowing and 20 minutes
resting. There is constant rotation of the watches: if you’re on the
first watch on the starboard oars you will be relieved by the third
watch after 40 minutes. After a generous 20 minute rest period
(during which you might serve as lookout or steersman) you get to
relieve the second watch at the port oars. Repeat ad infinitum or
until arrival. The duration of the watches may be varied to suit the
situation, but 40 min. on and 20 min. off seems about optimal, and
is easier to remember since it puts everything on an hourly cycle.

5.4.1 Lookout
We are required to maintain a proper lookout whenever the ship is
not moored. The lookout is stationed at the bow, and reports to the
captain anything which may affect the conduct of the voyage — in
particular dangers such as submerged objects, or approaching
vessels. In unusually tight situations, the lookout may be permitted
to issue rowing commands in order to maneuver the ship precisely.
The lookout should be aware of the full 360˚ around the ship.
Vessels astern can be just as dangerous as vessels ahead.
The lookout is particularly important when the sail is up — since it
usually obscures the view from the helm — or when the rest of the
crew is distracted by something such as un-fouling the sail. When
you are lookout, pay attention to where the ship is headed, no
matter how exciting things get on board. It’s no fun to be so dis-
tracted by one disaster that we blindly sail straight into the next one.
Most serious accidents are caused by something minor which is
allowed to get out of hand.
5.4.2 Helm
The helmsman maintains the course specified by the captain, and
also keeps a general lookout. The ship is steered — as much as
possible — with the tiller, but this may be supplemented by rowing
commands when the tiller is insufficient to maintain course, or when
it is not set at all.
5.5 Rowing and rowing commands
The regular stroke is relatively light and done mostly from the upper
chest and arms. It is a light, quick, short, almost choppy stroke. The
ship relies on the cumulative, coordinated power of the rowers,
rather than the sheer strength of any individual rower. You are
neither playing Ben Hur nor digging for oysters on the bottom. Your
oar should dip only to its natural buoyancy point, the blade just
immersed. Keep your eye on the cox’n and don’t go wandering off
on your own beat.
Unless the captain specifies otherwise, the cox’n is the sternmost
rower on the port side. If no one on the port side is rowing, the
cox’n is simply the sternmost rower. When the situation changes —
due perhaps to an entire side of the ship holding oars, or the
current cox’n pausing to be relieved — the appropriate person
assumes the role of cox’n without an explicit order being given.
Everyone is assumed to know this rule, and expected to follow the
correct rower.
To lose control of your oar in the water (Catching a Crab) can result
in a broken oar and a broken strake. The oar is caught by the
stream of water flowing past the ship, and drawn down and back,
levering against the oar-port with bone-crunching force. This is
usually caused by inattention on the part of rowers who have

allowed their oar to drift into a position allowing it to be caught this
way, but it can sometimes be caused by a warped oar. If you catch
a crab you should immediately yell ‘Crab’ and throw your body over
the loom of the oar to force the blade up out of the water. When the
other rowers hear the cry ‘Crab’, they should immediately hold oars
and await further commands.
The best way to avoid catching a crab is to hold your oar sightly
tilted so that the upper edge is slightly forward of the lower edge.
This causes the flow of water to have a tendency to lift the oar out
of the water rather than draw it down. If your hands get tired while
rowing, don’t hesitate to change your grip on the oar as frequently
as you feel necessary, if that helps. If you find yourself out of sync
with the other rowers, do not attempt to catch up with them, you will
probably only foul yourself up worse; instead: skip a stroke and join
in again when everyone else has caught up to you. If you notice
that you suddenly are having much greater difficulty staying syn-
chronized with everyone else, it is probably the first sign that you
are getting tired. Don’t hesitate to ask for relief if you become
exhausted. There is usually someone else willing to row, and if
there’s not, it’s probably time for the entire crew to take a rest.
5.5.1 Commands
5.5.1.1 Raise oars
Take the oars down from the oar-rack, and raise them to a vertical
position with the blade at the top, the rowers standing.
5.5.1.2 Set oars
Place the blades of the oars in the water, holding the handle
securely and keeping the blade feathered. Push the oar away from

the ship so the handle is beyond the gunwale, pass the handle
through the oarport, and draw the oar inwards to rowing position.
5.5.1.3 Hold oars

Press down on the loom to raise the oar out of the water, and hold it
there.
5.5.1.4 Give way

Row forward. This command is properly given in three parts:
Captain to crew: ‘Stand by to Give Way’
Captain to coxswain: ‘Give Way’
Coxswain to crew: ‘Ready, Stroke, Stroke, Stroke . . .’
5.5.1.5 Hold water
Raise the loom of the oar, dipping the blade in the water — leading
edge up — and hold it still. This command is used to slow or stop
the ship, or to keep it from drifting when stopped. If the order is
given when the ship is stationary, you should immediately drop the
blade all the way into the water, but if the ship is moving, dip only
the tip of the blade in the water, and gradually lower it the rest of
the way in only as far as you feel you can while still maintaining
control of the oar. If you drop it in too fast, the momentum of the
ship may overpower your grip, resulting in damage to the oar, the
ship, yourself, or fellow Crewmembers.

5.5.1.6 Back water
Row backwards, pushing the oar away from you instead of pulling
it towards you. To turn the ship in place, one side may row forward
while the other backwaters.
5.5.1.7 Ship oars
Bring the oars inside the boat. This is the opposite of Set Oars.
The end result is that the oars will be in the same position as after
Raise Oars.
5.5.1.8 Rack oars
Lay the oars on the Oar-racks, blades toward the bow.

5.5.1.9 Point oars
The crew stands and handles the oars like canoe paddles. This is
useful for maneuvering in tight places.
5.5.1.10 Shove off
Push the boat sideways away from the dock or shore until clear of
obstructions, using boathooks or oars as poles.
5.5.1.11 In bows
The two rowers nearest the bow ship their oars and prepare to dock
the boat. This usually means getting one or more boathooks off the
Oar-rack, preparing a dock line, or untangling the anchor line.
5.5.1.12 Frog oars (or) Fudge oars
Draw the oar inwards until the handle reaches the inside of the
opposite gunwhale. Brace the handle there, as low as it can conve-
niently reach.
5.5.1.13 Cramp oars

Draw the oar partway in but continue rowing. This is used to row
thorough narrow channels. If in doubt as to whether the ship can fit
through anyplace with cramped oars, point the oars instead.
5.5.1.14 Throw oars
Shove the oar outwards with enough force that it will continue until

it is clear of the ship. Do not attempt to hang onto the oar. This is
used in emergencies where the ship is coming up against a fixed
object or another boat is coming up alongside us, with enough force
to endanger our ship or crew. Since this order is used in critical
situations, it must be performed quickly. The oars are made of
wood; they will float. We can go back and pick them up later.
(What’s that? You wonder how we can go back if we’ve thrown our
oars overboard? That’s why we brought along spares, remember?)
Under no circumstances is this to be done unless you are so
ordered by the captain.
5.6 Sailing stations and commands
When under sail the entire configuration of the crew changes. The
captain or an appointed sailing master has the con. The lookout
must make sure that the sail does not obscure their view. The port
and starboard sheets are each handled by individual
Crewmembers. The braces are handled by an additional (or some-
times two additional) Crewmembers. Two people attempting to
adjust the yard simultaneously can lead to a tug-o-war, so one
person handling both braces usually works out better. A pair of
crew handle the halyards when hoisting or furling the sail. Steers-
man and yeoman are the same as under oar.
The overall trim of the ship is critical while under sail. If everyone
crowds to the bow for a good view, or to ‘look heroic’ she’ll mush
down and lose steerage. If everyone is in the stern, she won’t reach
well. With 1,500 lbs. or more of ballast (crew) she can be sailed flat,
with minimal heel. This — under normal conditions — generates
maximum power in the sail and minimum leeway at the keel. Under
sail, they also serve who only sit, or even sleep, as long as they do
it in the right place.
5.6.1 Sailing theory

The propulsion of a vehicle with one solid wing and several vari-
ously-shaped semi-rigid wings at the interface of two turbulent fluids
of different densities is enough to cause vast numbers of folks to
expend many millions of dollars to gain 1/10th of a knot, so let’s
skip that approach.
A keel is like an ice skate: it goes a lot more easily forward or
backward than it does sideways. When the keel does slip sideways,
that’s called leeway, and all keels do it. At any point of sail other
than a dead run, you’re going to slip down a little to the leeward.
A sail is like a kite or an airplane wing. On a dead run it just catches

the wind and uses the energy to push itself along. When running on
a reach the air flows across the sail instead of pushing it, which
develops lift as in an airplane’s wing. This milks more energy out of
the wind, enabling the vessel to sail faster than on a dead run. (This
is one case where a straight-line is not the shortest distance
between two points; it is theoretically faster to take a longer zigzag
course — called jibing — to avoid running.)
5.6.2 Points of sail

The various orientations of the wind direction relative to the bearing
of the ship are called points of sail. The major ones are:
5.6.2.1 Dead run:

The wind is coming from directly astern. The sail is held at a right
angle to the wind.
Wind
5.6.2.2 Broad reach:

The wind is coming from about four points off of dead astern. Some
lift is generated by the flow of the wind across the sail, as opposed
to directly into it.
W
in
d
5.6.2.3 Beam reach:

The wind is coming from the side of the ship. The sail is held
oblique to the wind. The shape of the sail becomes important since
most of the thrust is being generated by lift.

Wind
5.6.2.4 Close reach or Close hauled:

The wind is coming from ahead of the beam. The shape of the sail
becomes critical since we’re trying to eke out every last ounce of
thrust from the wind. The Fyrdraca does not sail well with the wind
ahead of the beam. The use of a betias pole to keep the leading
edge of the sail taut is advised.
d
in
W
5.6.2.5 Under oars:

This is our usual ‘sailing’ configuration. Hoisting sail is a sure
means of getting the wind to change direction to be from directly
ahead.

Wind
5.6.3 Beaufort scale

Among sailors, the Beaufort Scale has long been the conventional
standard for judging the force of the wind. It correlates wind velocity
with the behavior you may expect from the sea, ships, and — for
the sake of completeness — various objects on land (not that they
are of major concern to us).
A copy of the ultimate, complete more-information-than-you-can-
possibly-use Beaufort Scale may be found at the end of this
manual.
5.6.4 Emergency commands

When things go wrong under sail, they go wrong fast. Seconds
count.
Uncleat your sheet(s) Release your sheet from the cleat and keep the sheet in hand or
with a single round turn for control.
Let go your sheet(s) Let the sheets go, keeping only the bitter end of the line. This lets
the sail fly and takes the pressure off the mast.
Let your sheet(s) fly Let go the bitter end.
Cut the sheet With a knife, fast, because it’s jammed up and you are in peril.
This same series is applicable — in extreme circumstances — to
the halyards. Eg.: Uncleat the halyards, Let go the halyards, Cut the
halyards. These command are rarities, but all of them have been
used in our experience.
5.7 Point system
Bearings are indicated by the point system: 32 points to a full circle,

4 points to a 45˚ sector. Please study the diagram below, and learn
the principles behind these names.
We use this system because: First: until the mid-20th century, all

compasses were marked into 32 points. A fragment of what may
well have been an actual Viking navigational instrument was
notched in one-point increments. Second: in the crowded conditions
in which we usually operate, exact bearings are a matter of neces-
sity and safety. There’s an important difference between the
general description ‘Two boats coming from starboard.’ and ‘One
boat closing broad on the starboard bow and one boat closing on
the starboard quarter.’ In a tight situation this difference becomes
more than just a matter of being able to use a bunch of neat-
sounding nautical jargon.
5.8 Rights of way
The ‘Rules of the Road’ apply at any time the danger of collision
with another vessel exists. This means any time two vessels are on
courses which will bring them close enough that it is not certain that
they will pass safely. They do not apply to vessels whose courses
are carrying them away from one another, or are so far apart that
actions by either or both of them cannot produce imminent danger
of collision. One rule of thumb for determining the danger of colli-
sion is to observe the bearing of an approaching vessel. If its
bearing does not change, you are on a collision course, and must
be prepared to take evasive action if the situation doesn’t change
before you get close to it.
5.8.1 Approaching a power-driven vessel

Sailing vessels have right-of-way over power driven vessels except:
when overtaking a power-driven vessel from behind, or when the
power-driven vessel is restricted in its ability to maneuver because
it is in a narrow channel, or has fishing nets deployed. You are
approaching a vessel from behind if you are approaching from
within six points of dead astern. If approach from directly abeam the
other ship, or even up to two points abaft the beam, this is a
crossing, not an overtaking situation. At night, you are approaching
a vessel from behind if you can see its white sternlight, and in a
crossing situation if you can see its colored sidelights.
5.8.2 Approaching a sailing vessel

When two sailing vessels approach one another, if they have the
wind on opposite sides, the one with the wind from the port side
yields to the other. If they have the wind on the same side, the
vessel to windward must yield to the leeward vessel.
This — of course — is how things are supposed to work. In actual
practice, any vessel over 65’ has, and will take the right of way from
smaller vessels. Steer clear! De Big Boat have de Right-o-way.

Dead
Ahead
2 Points on
1 Point on Starboard
1 Point on Bow
Port Bow Starboard
3 Points on Bow
Port Bow 2 Points on 3 Points on
Port Bow Starboard
Bow
Broad on Broad on
Port Bow Starboard
Bow
3 Points 3 Points
Forward of Forward of
Port Beam Starboard
Beam
2 Points
Forward of 2 Points
Port Beam Forward of
Starboard
Beam
1 Point
Forward of 1 Point Forward of
Port Beam Starboard Beam
Broad on
Broad on Starboard
Port Beam Beam
1 Point Abaft
1 Point Starboard Beam
Abaft Port
Beam
2 Points 2 Points Abaft

Abaft Port Starboard Beam
Beam
3 Points
Abaft Port 3 Points Abaft
Beam Starboard Beam
Broad on
Starboard
Quarter
Broad on
Port Quarter
1 Point on 3 Points on
3 Points on Starboard Starboard
Port Quarter Quarter Quarter
1 Point on 2 Points on
Port Quarter
Dead Starboard
2 Points Astern Quarter
on Port
Quarter

5.9 Use of Mast and Anchor Lights and legal requirements
For night operation, the Fyrdraca is equipped with a 12-volt three-

way masthead running light, and a self-contained anchor/under-
oars light. When the ship is moving under oar power at night, the
white anchor light must be set on high-intensity, and hoisted high
enough up the forestay that it is not obscured by the figurehead.
The three-way masthead light is required when the ship is under
sail at night, or may be used in place of the white light when under
oars. At anchor at night, the white light is to be set on low intensity,
and displayed in the same manner as for rowing.
The Gyrfalcon (being under 7 meters long) is required to carry a
‘white electric torch or lantern displayed in time to prevent collision’
when operating at night.
5.10 Use of the Faering
The Gyrfalcon is used in two modes: either as an afterboat (dinghy)

in consort with the Fyrdraca, or independently.
5.10.1 As an Afterboat
In the role as an afterboat the faering is the responsibility of the
captain. He will supervise the use of the faering and its crewing,
and exercise judgment regarding weather conditions and suitability
to the task assigned. The ship and faering are a joint responsibility
in this case, and the faering does not require a captain onboard.
5.10.2 Towing
The primary painter when under tow should be led low through the
lower hole in the stem. A secondary (slacked) painter may be led
higher up to serve as a backup. The painter should be about 50 feet
long, but the actual towing length will vary according to conditions.
The shorter the painter, the less yawing you are likely to get, but the
chance of the afterboat running into your stern increases. When
under tow it should be constantly checked and adjusted as condi-
tions change.
A stern-down trim, effected by loading backup water containers
(full) and other material into the stern of the boat is advantageous to
prevent yawing, as is a neutral-buoyancy low-drag sea anchor (a 2-
liter plastic soft-drink bottle filled with water) dragged from the stern
painter.
Oars and extra gear should be tied down or kept on the ship.
At anchor, the faering will normally hang aft of the ship, to leeward.
Conditions of wind and current may, however, conspire to bring the
two vessels together, to the mutual detriment of each. This usually
occurs at 03:00 in the rain. If conditions are mild the two may be
rafted together, with a goodly quantity of well-placed fenders

between. If things are a little rougher it may be fastened to one or
two projecting spars to hold it out away from the hull.
5.10.3 Shore runs

When used as a dinghy to ferry people ashore, given good condi-
tions, the faering can leave with five crew and be rowed back by
one. In this manner a crew of fifteen (leaving two on watch on the
ship) may be ferried ashore in two and a half round trips. Once
ashore, the faering must be secured against all natural or human
harm, or an additional watch set for it. Setting a faering watch has
the advantage of providing the ship’s watch with transportation if
needed.
5.10.4 Independent operation

A captain is required for all independent voyages of the faering.
Since she is transported on a ‘dry’ cradle and trailer, the faering
requires at least four people to launch her from the trailer. There-
fore a crew of four or five will probably be the norm for independent
operation.
All weight should be removed when lifting the faering onto or off of
the trailer. Get help if a launch is difficult, and hand carry the faering
to the water’s edge.
Caution Never get the trailer in the water; it is not made for it.
5.10.5 Boarding and safety

The gyrfalcon has very low initial stability (‘to the wrong side of a
canoe’) which means that if you board it wrong, or make a wrong
move, you (and probably everyone already on board) will be going
for an unexpected swim. She does, however, grow stiffer as more
crew board her. When boarding, step to the center (on the keel, not
the thwart) keeping your weight low and balanced. Move carefully
to your assigned position and sit down.
Do not overload the boat. A five-person maximum (with no heavy

equipment) is all she will take in good to moderate conditions. If the
weather picks up, four is more sensible. Three is the standard crew
for rowing, and the minimum for sailing. When used as a dinghy,
one can row it back to the ship.
With all crew seated and weight stowed low, any change of position
should be announced beforehand and carried out slowly and
deliberately. Do not stand up!
A life vest will accompany each Crewmember, and will be worn
except in special situations, such as invasions and exhibitions. The
faering must also carry at least one throwable flotation cushion,
three flares, and — at night — a functioning flashlight or lantern.

5.11 Trailering the faering
5.11.1 Packing
Do not overload the rig. Keep any heavy objects in your car (on the
floor, where you have no passengers) or in the stern of the faering.
The tongue weight is about 170 pounds. Stern loading will help to
keep it reasonable.
The motion and vibration of towing causes chafing, so oars, spars

and other items must be tied down and cushioned. Light objects
such as life jackets and fenders must be either tied down or stowed
in the car to prevent them from blowing away.
Before attempting to tow the faering, be sure to check each of these
items:
+ Trailer Tongue attached?
+ Safety Chains attached?
+ Electrical System Connected: Test running lights, brake lights and
turn signals.
+ Mast Lowered?
+ Boat tied down?
+ Red Towing Flag attached to stern?
+ Trailer registration in your possession?
+ Lock Trailer Hitch and don’t lose the key.
5.11.2 Overheating
Since your engine is working harder pulling the rig, it’s also running
hotter. Before you leave, be sure your radiator is full and the cap
secure. (It would also be wise to check your oil, battery, transmis-
sion fluid, tire pressure, etc. while you’re at it.)
If you have time for it, you should make a mid-trip stop to let things
cool down, check under the hood, and give yourself a break.
Inspect the rig while you’re at it, and check the trailer hubs to see if
they’re running hot from any bearing trouble.
If you suspect that your engine is in danger of overheating, you
should run the car’s heater. Since it works by drawing heat from the
engine coolant, it will assist the radiator in keeping the engine
temperature down.
5.11.3 Potholes, bumps and railroad tracks

Because of the trailer’s small-diameter wheels and its light cargo,
the whole rig tends to fall into depressions in the road, then launch
itself into the air. Keeping your speed down on unfamiliar back
roads or potholed highways gives you a chance to steer around an
obstacle or slow down to minimize the impact, preventing damage
to the trailer or the faering.
Railroad tracks are the worst. If you must cross a badly-graded
Page 38 railroad, put on your emergency blinkers, come toLONG
a complete stop,
SHIP MANUAL
look both ways and — if it’s clear — ease the rig across the tracks
6. Safety
6.1 Hypothermia
Crews get cold. Crews get wet. Crews get hungry. When they get
cold, wet and hungry, they become potential victims of hypother-
mia, which in its earlier stages dulls one’s judgment, leading to
mistakes which makes the crew colder, wetter, hungrier and
exhausted. Eventually it can kill you outright, or cause you to make
a mistake that can kill you.
It is perhaps as big a danger as drowning, but a far less obvious
menace. The great danger of hypothermia is that the victim is
usually unaware that anything is happening to him. As one be-
comes more affected by cold, simple tasks take longer to accom-
plish or even understand.
The onset of hypothermia varies widely with individuals. Generally
speaking, somewhat overweight people are less quickly affected
than thin, wiry ones, but there are enough exceptions in either
direction to make broad statements risky. Only by keeping warm
and observing the actions of fellow Crewmembers can one spot the
first slowing down of reactions. If one’s boat is spilled, unless it can
be righted quickly, it’s best to conserve one’s body heat by not
struggling without reason. Clothing that is not actually dragging one
down will serve to retain some heat even when soaked - and it may
well hold air and thus buoyancy as well.
6.2 Heat stroke and salt loss
Normally when the body is overheated, excess heat is eliminated

through the cooling of the body surface by evaporation of sweat. In
profuse sweating, however, large quantities of salt are lost and the
essential salt balance of the body may be upset. Under conditions
of high humidity and when tight or heavy clothing is worn, the
cooling of the body by evaporation may be interfered with, resulting
in heat exhaustion, heat cramps, or heat stroke.
Treatment for heat cramps should include giving the victim saltwa-
ter solution. Relief of cramps may also be obtained by massage of
the cramping muscles, using firm pressure rather than vigorous
kneading, and by applying warm, wet towels to the painful muscles.
In mild cases of heat exhaustion the patient usually feels tired and

may experience headache and nausea. In severe cases perspira-
tion is profuse, weakness extreme, and the skin is pale and
clammy. The patient’s temperature is usually normal or subnormal.
Vomiting may occur. Unconsciousness is rare, but often the patent
will be unable to stand. Painful cramps in leg or arm muscles may
begin suddenly and continue for as long as 24 hours.
Until proper medical help can be obtained, allow the victim to rest in
a cool location. Give him cool salted water to drink (one teaspoon
salt per quart of water).
In contrast to heat cramps and heat exhaustion, a person with heat
stroke usually has a high fever (105˚F. or higher), and no evident
perspiration. His skin is hot and dry. Symptoms include headache,
dizziness, irritability and seeing objects through a reddish or
purplish haze. The patient may suddenly become unconscious, the
pulse is full and strong, breathing is noisy like snoring, and there
may be convulsions. This is a life-threatening situation.
The first efforts in treatment of heat stroke should be to reduce the
fever rapidly. Undress the patient and put him to bed in the coolest
available area, possibly in the water if this is feasible. Sponge his
body freely with water or alcohol to reduce his temperature to 102˚
F. or less. Vigorous efforts to reduce fever should be stopped when
the body temperature reaches this point (102˚ F.), and the patient
should be observed for 10 minutes. The temperature may continue
to decline or it may rise again. If it starts to rise, renew sponging
cautiously. Damp sheets or blankets may be placed over the victim
to maintain the temperature at or below 102˚ F.
Give no stimulants such as coffee or tea. Administer salt solution,

as soon as it can be tolerated, provided the patient is fully con-
scious. (One half teaspoon of salt in a glassful of water every 15
minutes for 3 hours.) Arrange transportation to a hospital as soon
as possible.
Caution: Do not attempt to force an unconscious person to drink anything.
6.3 Sudden unexpected bad weather
There are two kinds of heavy weather to consider - heavy weather

that you expect - and can avoid being caught out in - and the
sudden unexpected squall. Sooner or later you’re going to find
yourself caught out when the wind is stronger than you’d like it to
be.
Squalls can be unnerving simply because they give you little time to
prepare. Even the fastest moving squall line will nevertheless allow
you the few minutes you need to get your boat in shape to handle it.
Remember too, that a fast-moving squall has one great virtue - it’s
over in a hurry. Often a squall will last only a few minutes, seldom
more than half an hour.
The first step when it becomes obvious that you’re likely to be

caught in a squall, is to have all hands put on their lifejackets. Not

only should every Crewmember have a lifesaving device of proper
size, but everyone should wear it whenever there’s any threat of
bad weather. A good lifejacket will give the Crewmember confi-
dence, conserve body heat, and absorb some of the bumps that
happen in rough weather.
The second step is to drop and furl the sail securely, until you know
the strength of the advancing storm. A serious squall can pack
winds up to 60 miles per hour or stronger.
Secure all loose equipment, have a bailer or pump ready, and have
the crew keep their weight low in the boat. If you’re upwind from a
beach or shore, it would be well to put your anchor out and set it, to
avoid being blown ashore.
6.4 Man overboard
When you have lost someone overboard you have a possible life/
death situation on your hands. As soon as you become aware that
someone has fallen overboard, call “Man Overboard”. Someone
should throw a flotation device (lifejacket or flotation cushion) as
close to the victim as possible without hitting him with it. One of a
bright color is desirable, to mark the victim’s location if he has sunk.
Keep the victim in sight continually.
Get the boat under control. All too often someone goes overboard
because the boat is out of control. It is a mistake to attempt a
rescue before getting matters in hand. Typically this will mean
dropping the sail and setting some oars if they have been shipped.
(This is probably a good argument for keeping the oars fudged
while sailing.)
Before attempting to recover the victim, secure him. At the moment
of rescue many people have ceased trying to keep afloat and have
sunk before the eyes of their rescuers. Get a line under the victim’s
arms and secure it. Unless the person is injured, no other person
should go over the side to help - you can almost always help better
from within the boat. The victim will be exhausted, scared, and
probably so weighted down by clothing that he will be virtually
helpless. In cold water the danger of hypothermia makes it impor-
tant to get the person aboard as quickly as possible. Ease the
victim gently over the gunwale, face down. People bend more
readily in that direction, so it will avoid causing them back injury.
Usually the best way is to get the torso up over the side and
secured, then to grab a leg and heave it up into the ship.
6.5 Emergency signaling devices
We are required by law to carry three day/night emergency signal-

ing devices. We may pack a few extra, depending on the operation
contemplated. These are to be used only when lives or property are

threatened. Common sense dictates that they not be used until
there is another vessel in sight and close enough to see them.
These devices do not carry great weight in the duration and bril-
liance department, and the range of visibility listed in the advertise-
ments are for a clear, still night, not when blowing half a gale in the
murk.
Familiarize yourself with the launching procedures and characteris-
tics of those carried aboard, and where they are stowed. (Usually,
in the sea-chest at the stern.)
Additionally, distress signals may consist of: arm waving, flags,
whistles, lights, and voice radio. In a bona-fide emergency anything
that gets attention is legitimate.
6.6 Knockdown, capsize, or collision
If, through the natural hazards of the sea, or the intervention of an

outside klutz, the vessel is capsized or holed, the cardinal rule is
stay with the ship. Because of their peculiar unballasted construc-
tion, and the innovative use of wood for the hull and spars, Viking
vessels will actually float without excessive coercion. If the hull is
undamaged, or the hole can be fothered (temporarily patched)
there is an excellent chance that she can be bailed out and restored
to sailing trim. If the damage is too extensive to repair on the spot,
(6"mortar shell, 18' ski boat, Wrath of God, &c) stay with the largest
part.
Your first priority should be: secure yourself and your fellow crew
into lifejackets and onto the vessel. Make sure everyone is ac-
counted for. Second priority is to secure all safety equipment such
as flares and extra flotation devices. Third priority is to secure all
ship’s gear, such as oars and rigging, either for salvage or to return
the ship to operable condition.
Stay with the ship, listen to the officers, and work together.
6.7 Fire
The only type of fire at all likely on board our vessels is a class-A
fire, that is wood, paper, cloth &c, as opposed to class-B: flam-
mable liquids, or class-C: electrical. The sovereign remedy for most
class-A fires on a vessel of our size is a bucket of water. It is cheap,
available, and effective. On the Fyrdraca we also carry two hand-
held dry-chemical fire extinguishers: one in the bow and one in the
stern. These should be used if you can beat the bucket, if we have
a fire in our 12-volt electrical system, or on afire in a powered tow
boat or tender. Furthermore: under the requirement that we assist
any vessel in distress — short of imperiling our vessel and crew —
our equipment is on hand if needed to suppress a fire on another
vessel.
The important points are: be quick, be thorough, and aim at the
base of the fire.
A. Glossary
adventure A disaster that you survive, enabling you to brag about it.
anchor Large heavy sharp metal object intended to get stuck on anything it
comes in contact with. Useful to keep the ship from drifting.
beam The direction straight out to the side of the ship. Since the ship has
two sides this isn’t a very useful concept unless you specify port
beam or starboard beam. §..
belay To cleat off a line. Also, to cancel an order.
bend A method of fastening two lines together. §.
betias pole A movable spar used to pull the lower corner of the sail taut when it
would otherwise not be possible to do so because you’d have to be
standing outside the ship to be at the right angle. This is most
useful when we’re trying to sail into the wind. Some sources spell
this: Beti-ass.
bilge The area underneath the deck. Also the substances which accumu-
late therein.
bilgemaster Crew member responsible for maintaining the condition of the bilge,
specifically the level of water there. §..
bitter end The end of a line which is beyond the bitt.
boatswain Crewmember responsible for stowage and rigging.
bow The pointy end of the ship, usually identified by a dragon’s head.
Located behind the rowers’ backs. The front of the boat.
chart A map.
con Immediate second-by-second command of the ship. This position is
usually held by the captain, but it may be relinquished for various
reasons. This does not mean the captain is relinquishing ultimate
authority.
coxswain Crewmember who calls the stroke when we’re under oars. §..
crab In addition to being a popular seafood, a crab is the condition
where an oar is trapped and pulled down by the flow of water. §..
dinghy A small vessel used to ferry people and equipment around, fre-
quently to a larger vessel.
faering A four-oared boat. This usually refers to the Gyrfalcon.
head The marine toilet. Has nothing to do with the dragon’s head unless
you’re a seagull.
helmsman Crewmember who is steering. Also: Steersman.
hitch A method for fastening a line to a fixed object. §.
keel The main spine of a ship. Also the part of the hull extending deep
into the water, usually to increase stability or to reduce leeway.
knot An intentional tangle in aline. Useful for attaching things together.
§.. Also a unit of speed measurement: one nautical mile per hour.
(1.15 land miles per hour)
leeward (loor’d) The direction the wind is blowing to. Opposite of Windward.
leeway The distance the ship slips sideways in the water as a result of
pressure from the sail. Generally considered undesirable.
line What you use rope for. Every use of rope on board ship has a
name, which is usually the something-or-other-line.

log The continuous written record of the voyage, noting — in particular
— landmarks passed, times, distance covered, contacts with other
vessels and crew activity (or lack thereof).
lookout Crewmember responsible for watching for, and warning of impend-
ing disaster.
make-fast Fasten, attach-to, etc. Another example of nautical jargon.
oar If you really have to look this one up you’re reading the wrong book.
painter Towline for dinghy or faering.
PFD ‘Personal Flotation device’. This is Coast-Guard jargon for what
everyone else calls a ‘Life Preserver’.
point Unit of angle. There are 32 points in a full circle. These are usually
used with reference to some known direction as in: ‘Four points
abaft the starboard beam’ which means ‘behind and to the right of
the ship’.
port Where we hope to reach at the conclusion of a voyage. Also: the
left side of the ship, so named because we always bring it up
against a dock instead of the starboard side, to avoid damage to
the steerboard.
stern The other pointy end (see bow), identified by a dragon’s tail and
numerous officers lounging about. To the front of the rowers. The
back of the boat.
sheepshank Method of shortening a length of rope without detaching its ends. §.
starboard The right side of the ship, so-called because that’s where the
steerboard is mounted.
steerboard The large wooden contraption hanging over the side of the ship,
always used for steering when under sail, and usually used to steer
when under oars.
steersman same as Helmsman.
step The large wooden block on which the mast rests. Also the act of
mounting the mast into this block. §.
thwart The rowing benches. If you want to know why they’re called
thwarts, try running from one end of the ship to the other.
tide Laundry detergent, useful for cleaning everything you wore on the
voyage. Also sometimes refers to the level of the water in those
bodies in which it varies.
windward The direction from which the wind is coming. Usually the bow of the
ship.
yaw The axis of rotation running through the mast. Turning motion of the
ship.
yeoman Crewmember who maintains the log.

B. Bibliography
B.1 Books
Bengtsson, F. G. (various). The Long Ships , various paperback

and hardcover publishers. — Has little to do with the movie, but a
saga-style novel written by a Swedish historian. Good stuff.*
Brøgger A. W. and Sketelig, H. 1971. The Viking Ships . New York:
Twayne Publishers. — A comprehensive description of the
Oseberg, Gokstad and Tune Ships (once you get past their hang-
up on skin boats).*
Brøndsted, J. revised 1965. The Vikings . London and Baltimore:
Penguin. — A basic overview of Viking culture. *
Cagner, E. 1972. The Viking . New York: The Tryckare and Cres-
cent Books. — The infamous Big Red (or White) Book. Lots of
pictures and drawings of artifacts, but untrustworthy text and
interpretations
Graham-Campbell, J. 1980. The Viking World . New Haven, New
York: Tichnor & Fields. — Art, Artifacts, and Life-styles
Howarth, D. 1977. 1066 The Year of the Conquest . New York:

Viking Press. — Well written, with a good view of Anglo-Saxon
England. *
La Faz, H. 1972.The Vikings . Washington, D.C.: National Geo-
graphic Society. — A view of the age and the affected lands today.
Magnusson, M. 1980. Vikings! New York: E. P. Dutton. — Com-
panion piece to the BBC TV series
B.2 Motion Pictures
The Vikings. 1956. Kirk Douglas, Tony Curtiss, Ernest Borgnine. - A

good B-: Ragner’s Saga fudged into a sort of 11th century Norman
style England. Three Longships.
The Longships. Richard Widmark. - A C: Has little to do with the

book, but is undoubtedly one of the great Viking comedies of all
time.
The Norseman. Lee Majors. D-: Don’t waste your time except for
lessons on how not to make a Viking movie.

Errata
Page 46: For ‘Errata’ substitute ‘Erratum’.

Index
sheet bend 6
strangle 5
A knots 3
Anchor Lights 34
L
B Lights
Beam Reach 31 Mast & Anchor 34
Beaufort Scale 33 Lookout 25
Broad Reach 31
M
C mast
capsize 42 stepping and unstepping 2
Catching a Crab 25
P
Close Hauled 32
Close Reach 32 Point System 33
coin
silver 3 R
Crab
Rights of Way 34
Catching a 25
Cramp Oars 29 T
D Throw Oars 29
Towing 36
Dead Run 31
Trailering
F faering 37
figure of eight knot 3 W

Fire 42
watches
Frog Oars 29
rotation of 24
Fudge Oars 29
H
Heat Stroke 39
helmsman 25
Hypothermia 39
K
knot
bowline 4
clove hitch 6
double sheet bend 7
magnus hitch 6
reef 3
rolling hitch 6
round turn and two half hitches 5
sheepshank 4

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SHIP'S MANUAL

Longship Company, Ltd.

Markland Medieval Mercenary Militia

The Longship Company, Ltd.

1. Parts of the Ships 1

We're all in the same boat together, so take care of

SHIP'S MANUAL iii

This is the third version of the Longship Company Ship’s

Fred Blonder (Editor),

Forward Aft Oar Rack

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 1

1.3 Stepping and unstepping the mast

Because of its length, stepping and unstepping the Fyrdraca’s mast

Page 2 LONG SHIP MANUAL

Stepping and unstepping the Gyrfalcon’s mast is trivial by compari-

1.4.1 Figure of Eight Knot

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 3

Page 4 LONG SHIP MANUAL

1.4.6 Round Turn and Two Half Hitches

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 5

1.4.8 Rolling Hitch (or Magnus Hitch)

1.4.9 Sheet Bend

Page 6 LONG SHIP MANUAL

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 7

2.1.3 Boatswain (bos’n)

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 9

2.1.7 Coxswain (cox’n)

Page 10 LONG SHIP MANUAL

Everyone is expected to row if physically possible, however noone

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 11

Page 12 LONG SHIP MANUAL

3.1 Basic Necessities

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 13

In addition to the above, the following are needed for overnight

+ Trash bag - You’d be surprised how much trash we can produce

Page 14 LONG SHIP MANUAL

3.5.1 Cold Weather

3.5.2 Hot weather

3.6 What not to bring

Paper bags, cardboard or glass containers, potato chips (These get

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 15

The Bos’n supervises stowage aboard our vessels, however it is

4.1 Personal Gear

Straps to fasten to thwarts

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 17

Bow Base of mast

Page 18 LONG SHIP MANUAL

4.3 Stowing everything away when done sailing

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 19

5.1 Readying the ship for a voyage

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 21

The Fyrdraca requires a travel-lift or crane to launch her. The lifting

Page 22 LONG SHIP MANUAL

5.3.1.1 Low tide

5.3.1.2 High tide

LONG SHIP MANUAL Page 23

5.4 Operational stations

Operating under oars in normal circumstances we should have a

Page 24 LONG SHIP MANUAL