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    Waves in The Ocean

    Uploaded by

    Suntoyo Saja
    Waves in the Ocean can be summarized as follows: 1) Waves are generated by wind blowing across the surface of the ocean, transferring energy and generating ripples and swells with periods of less than 30 seconds. 2) The type of wave depends on its period and wavelength, with ripples having periods less than 0.2 seconds, seas having periods of 0.2-9 seconds, and swell having longer periods of 9-30 seconds. 3) Wave speed depends on water depth, with deep water waves traveling at sqrt(gT) and shallow water waves traveling at sqrt(gh), where g is gravitational acceleration, T is wave period, and h is water depth.

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    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
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    Waves in The Ocean

    Uploaded by

    Suntoyo Saja
    47 views51 pages
    Waves in the Ocean can be summarized as follows: 1) Waves are generated by wind blowing across the surface of the ocean, transferring energy and generating ripples and swells with periods of less than 30 seconds. 2) The type of wave depends on its period and wavelength, with ripples having periods less than 0.2 seconds, seas having periods of 0.2-9 seconds, and swell having longer periods of 9-30 seconds. 3) Wave speed depends on water depth, with deep water waves traveling at sqrt(gT) and shallow water waves traveling at sqrt(gh), where g is gravitational acceleration, T is wave period, and h is water depth.

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    Waves

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    © Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)

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    Waves in the Ocean can be summarized as follows: 1) Waves are generated by wind blowing across the surface of the ocean, transferring energy and generating ripples and swells with periods of less than 30 seconds. 2) The type of wave depends on its period and wavelength, with ripples having periods less than 0.2 seconds, seas having periods of 0.2-9 seconds, and swell having longer periods of 9-30 seconds. 3) Wave speed depends on water depth, with deep water waves traveling at sqrt(gT) and shallow water waves traveling at sqrt(gh), where g is gravitational acceleration, T is wave period, and h is water depth.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    47 views51 pages

    Waves in The Ocean

    Uploaded by

    Suntoyo Saja
    Waves in the Ocean can be summarized as follows: 1) Waves are generated by wind blowing across the surface of the ocean, transferring energy and generating ripples and swells with periods of less than 30 seconds. 2) The type of wave depends on its period and wavelength, with ripples having periods less than 0.2 seconds, seas having periods of 0.2-9 seconds, and swell having longer periods of 9-30 seconds. 3) Wave speed depends on water depth, with deep water waves traveling at sqrt(gT) and shallow water waves traveling at sqrt(gh), where g is gravitational acceleration, T is wave period, and h is water depth.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 51

    Waves in the Ocean

    Finally we deal with a phenomenon that we see all the time! Waves little waves and big waves Waves that rock you to sleep, waves that make you sick and waves that can kill you.

    NOAA Photo Library


    Period

    Celerity = C = Wavelength/Period = T

    2 T

    C =

    Wave Frequency

    Wave Number

    Wave Celerity

    ! s e v a

    w ll a s e v a

    W f o

    s ei t r e p o r P

    ci s a B

    Note that these definitions work also for radio waves, gamma rays and light waves. In this case the interface is between the ocean and the atmosphere or between layers of different densities

    or ripples

    or seas

    Types of Waves in the Ocean


    Name Ripples Sea Swell Internal Planetary and Topographic Tsunamis Tides Typical Periods < 0.2 s 0.2 - 9 s 9 - 30 s min to several hrs Wave lengths 10-2 m 10s of m 100s of m 1 - 300 m Forcing Mechanism wind on sea surface " " current shear on stratification

    hours to days 15 min to 1 hr several hrs

    100-1000s km few 100s km 100s -1000s km

    bathymetry/atmospheric pressure seismic, landslide, meteorite impact gravitational (moon and sun mainly)

    Waves preserve their period The wavelength is a function of the period The celerity is a function of the wavelength Long waves travel faster than short waves

    C=

    Wave Period

    seconds (From Carl Davies, Southampton Univ)

    Small Amplitude Waves H < 1 20 In reality, wave steepness of small amplitude waves < 1 / 50

    Period T

    Celerity = C = Wavelength/Period = T

    = A cos

    2 t = A cos[ x t ] T

    u = g t x
    momentum balance

    1 u = H t x

    = A cos[ x t ]

    2 C = g tanh h 2

    1 2

    g = tanh( h )

    1 2

    Obtained from equations of motion assuming the wave is progressive, incompressible and irrotational

    cosh (20) = sinh(20) = 2.4 x 108

    g C = tanh( h )

    1 2

    Deep water wave: < 2h ( h is depth ) or Short wave h h This means that is small and h is large
    tanh( h ) 1
    g C=
    1 2

    = g

    g CT T = = g =g 2 2 2

    Shallow water wave: > 20h ( h is depth ) or Long wave h This means that is large and h is small tanh( h ) h
    g C = ( h )
    1 2

    = gh

    Shallow Water Waves

    Intermediate Waves Deep Water Waves

    C = gh

    g C = = tanh( h )

    1 2

    C = gT 2

    2 = g tanh( h )
    Dispersion relation
    (relation between frequency and wave number)

    Deep waves are dispersive Shallow waves are non-dispersive

    Dispersive

    C = g 2

    1/ 2

    = gT

    Non-dispersive

    C = gh

    Waves in the area of the fetch Group Velocity Cg = Velocity of the wave envelope
    Cg = C 2 h 1+ = 2 sinh(2 h )

    In deep waters: Cg = 0.5 C In shallow waters: Cg = C

    (green wave moving to the right; blue wave to the left)

    Group Velocity = Velocity of the wave envelope

    Rogue Wave generated by Constructive Wave Interference More information on Rogue Waves

    Motion of the Wave Form

    u=

    2z

    T 2 z H w= e sin(x t ) T

    cos(x t )

    Circular Motion

    H = e sin(x t ) 2 2z H = e cos(x t ) 2
    Short Deep Water Waves wind waves and swell offshore

    2z

    u=

    Elliptical Motion

    H g cos(x t ) 2 h

    w=

    z 1 + sin(x t ) T h

    = =
    Long Shallow Water Waves Tides, Tsunamis, Seiches, waves in shallow water

    TH g sin(x t ) 4 h

    H z 1 + cos(x t ) 2 h

    What about INTERMEDIATE WATER WAVES?

    Motion of water particles beneath waves -energy travels across the surface, not water particles

    Orbits of water particles are not quite closed -- net displacement = STOKES DRIFT

    Four factors controlling height and shape of wind waves

    Wind Speed: Proportional Wind duration: e.g. synoptic vs. sea-breeze Fetch: Distance over which the wind blows. Original Sea State: begin from rough or smooth surface

    Increased Wind Speed causes waves with increased height, wavelength and period

    Fully developed sea -waves can no longer grow

    Average and Significant Wave Height 25 20 15 10 5 0 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 Wind Speed


    Ave. Hgt Sig. Hgt.

    Wave Height

    Significant Wave Height = average of highest 1/3 of the waves.

    Small amplitude waves: Steepness < 1/20 (1/50 in real ocean) = A cos(x - t); A=H/2, = 2/, =2/T
    deep waves (short) < 2h Phase speed or wave celerity C wavelength intermediate waves 2h < < 20h 1 g tanh h 2 2 = g tanh( h ) C= ( ) shallow waves (long) > 20h

    C=

    gT g g = = 2

    C = [g h ]

    1 2

    gT 2 = 2

    gT 2 tanh( h ) = 2
    Cg = 2 h C 1+ 2 sinh(2 h )
    u=

    = CT
    Cg = C ( h << 1)
    H g cos(x t ) 2 h

    Group velocity Cg

    Cg = 0.5 C ( h >> 1)
    u=

    Wave particle horizontal velocity u vertical velocity w Horizontal displacements Vertical displacements Subsurface pressure

    H
    T

    2z

    cos(x t )

    u=

    H gT cosh(2 [h + z ] ) cos(x t ) 2 cosh(2h )


    H gT sinh(2 [h + z ] ) sin(x t ) 2 cosh(2h ) H cosh(2 [h + z ] ) sin(x t ) 2 cosh(2h )

    w=

    H
    T

    2z

    sin(x t )

    w=

    w=

    z 1 + sin(x t ) T h TH g sin(x t ) 4 h

    H = e 2

    2 z

    sin(x t ) cos(x t )
    2z

    = =

    H e 2

    2 z

    H sinh(2 [h + z ] ) cos(x t ) 2 cosh(2h ) cosh(2 [h + z ] ) gz cosh(2h )

    H z 1 + cos(x t ) 2 h
    p = g ( z )

    p = g e

    gz

    p = g

    In shallow waters, waves refract, diffract, reflect and/or break Refraction Change of wave celerity (bending of rays) due to changes in bathymetry

    Diffraction Change of wave celerity (bending of rays) due to the presence of an obstacle

    Reflection

    Waves break when steepness (H / ) < 1 / 7 or H / d ~ 0.8

    Breaking

    most common

    Most desired by surfers

    Progressive vs. Standing Waves Wind -generated waves are progressive

    maximum motion associated with crests and troughs

    = A cos( x t )
    C u = A cos( x t ) H H
    u =
    0 7 - . 1 6 8

    5 .

    0 5 .

    0 2 .

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    C
    0 5 - . 1 -

    time

    This indicates that the flow is in phase with the elevation u

    1 -

    5 .

    5 .

    a C/H
    0 7 - . 1 6 8

    0 5 .

    0 2 .

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    time
    0 5 - .

    1 -

    1 -

    5 .

    = A cos x sin t
    C u = A sin x cos t H
    - . 0 7 1 6 8

    . 5

    0 . 5

    0 . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    . 2

    This indicates that the flow is out of phase with the elevation by 90 degrees
    1

    time
    - . 0 5

    . 5

    . 5

    0. 5

    u
    0 - . 07 1 6 8 0. 2 8 3 2 1 . 2 8 3 2 2 . 2 8 3 2 3 . 2 8 3 2 4 . 2 8 3 2 5 . 2 8 3 2 6 . 2 8 3 2

    a C/H

    time
    - . 05 1

    . 5

    Internal Waves

    T = min to several hrs Wave length = 1 - 300 m Current shear on stratification

    Convergences at troughs

    They propagate roughly like a shallow water wave but the gravity restoring force is reduced by the difference in density.

    2 1 d C = g 2 2 1 = 1 C = 10 0.001 100 = 1 m/s

    Internal Waves in a closed basin

    How about C of a surface (wind-induced) wave?

    Standing Waves

    Half-wave oscillator

    Quarter-wave oscillator

    Natural standing wave (lake, harbor, estuary) ---- seiche

    Seiches
    First Order Seiche Second Order Seiche

    Example in the Balearic Islands

    And 5 minutes later

    Tsunamis
    Created by earthquakes, underwater landslides, meteorites -cause a series of waves or wave train Harbor wave definitely not a tidal wave T = 15 min to 1 hour Wave length = 100s of km Speed of shallow water surface wave

    C = g d = 10 4000 = 200m / s

    Tsunami in Papua New Guinea 1960 Chile Tsunami

    Tsunami in the Indian Ocean, Dec 26 2004

    Countries affected

    2004 Tsunami in the Indian Ocean

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2004_Indian_Ocean_earthquake http://www.digitalglobe.com/tsunami_gallery.html

    PLANETARY WAVES

    POINCARE WAVES KELVIN WAVES ROSSBY WAVES Coriolis accelerations become important

    Poincar Waves

    = A cos( x t )
    1 2

    s=f

    g u= A cos( x t ) 2 h (1 s )

    g v = s A sin( x t ) y 2 h (1 s )

    1 2

    s 1 >f

    gh C= 2 1 s
    Cg = (1 s

    1 2

    ) g h]

    1 2

    Cg < C dispersive waves

    Poincar Wave >f Superinertial

    = Ae

    f y

    cos( x t )

    Kelvin Wave

    g 2 f y C u = A e cos( x t ) h

    v =0
    C / f = Ro Rossby Radius

    Ro

    Needs a boundary or a guide on the right (northern hemisphere)

    ROSSBY WAVE

    Produced by variations in f -- Beta effect

    +f
    h

    = const

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