breakfast comforts

Enticing recipes for the morning

Rick Rodgers

A LMO N D - CR U S TED

FRENCH TOAST with berries

Challah is my bread of choice here because it really absorbs the custard, creating an eggy, sweet version of French toast similar to the pain perdu of New Orleans. Crunchy almonds, fresh raspberries, and fragrant orange zest bring this classic breakfast dish to a whole new level.

/4 teaspoon almond extract (optional)

1 /2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

8 thick slices challah or other egg bread, preferably day-old Canola oil or Clarified Butter (page 212) for cooking 1 cup (4 oz/125 g) sliced almonds 1 cup (4 oz/125 g) raspberries Pure maple syrup for serving

1 Preheat the oven to 350F (180C). Have ready 2 rimmed baking sheets. In a large shallow bowl, whisk together the eggs, half-and-half, sugar, orange zest, almond extract, if using, and vanilla. Add the bread to the egg mixture and turn gently to coat evenly. Let stand until the bread has soaked up some of the egg mixture, about 1 minute. 2 Place a griddle over medium heat until hot. Lightly oil the griddle and one of the baking sheets. Spread the almonds on a plate. One piece at a time, remove the bread from the egg mixture, letting the excess liquid drip back into the bowl. Dip one side of the bread into the almonds, pressing gently to help the nuts adhere. Place on the ungreased baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining bread slices. 3 Place the bread slices on the griddle, almond side down, and cook until the nuts begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook the other sides until golden brown, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to the greased baking sheet, almond side down, and bake until the center of the bread is heated through but still moist, about 10 minutes. 4 Serve the French toast piping hot, almond side up, topped with a handful of raspberries and drizzled with maple syrup.

makes 4 servings

FROM THE GRIDDLE 14

sarabeths New York, NY Manhattan may be the last place in America you would expect to find someone making artisan fruit preserves. But thats exactly what Sarabeth Levine was doing in 1981, when she opened up her bakery and jam shop in a small storefront on the Upper West Side. Her familys recipe for orange-apricot marmalade has since expanded into a thriving business that includes several restaurants, a bakery, and a factory that makes her line of spreadable fruit. Sarabeths restaurants, in particular, have long stood out as welcoming and reliably delicious retreats from the urban bustle of the city. Her cooking style presents the very best renditions of classic recipesthe fluffiest omelets and the lightest pancakes, and croissants and scones that rival any sold in New York (and provide the perfect foundations for generous amounts of her delicious preserves). Patrons have become particularly enamored of her rich, plump cheese-stuffed blintzes, a flawless version of an old New York favorite.

SWEET CHEESESTUFFED BLINTZES

1 1/2 cups (12 fl oz/375 ml) whole milk 6 large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk
3

/4 cup (4 oz/125 g) all-purpose flour

1 In a large bowl, whisk together the milk and 6 eggs. In another bowl, sift together the flour, 1 12 teaspoons granulated sugar, and the salt. Gradually whisk the flour mixture into the egg mixture just until the batter is smooth. With a rubber spatula, rub the batter through a wire sieve into another bowl to remove any lumps. 2 Brush a 7-inch (18-cm) nonstick frying pan with clarified butter and place over medium-high heat until hot. Pour 14 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) of the batter into the pan and tilt the pan to coat the bottom evenly, pouring out any excess batter. Drizzle a little batter into any holes. Cook until the bottom |is golden brown, about 1 minute. Flip and cook the other side until golden, about 1 minute more. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining batter, adding more butter to the pan as needed and stacking the blintzes, separated by parchment paper, as they are ready. You should have 12 blintzes, with a couple of extra to allow for practice. (The blintzes can be prepared, covered tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerated up to 1 day ahead.) 3 To make the filling, in a bowl, mash together the farmers cheese and cream cheese with a rubber spatula until combined. Stir in the egg yolk, 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, and the lemon zest. Cover and refrigerate the filling until chilled, at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours. 4 Place 1 blintz, spotted side up, on a work surface. Place about 2 tablespoons of the cheese filling just below the center of the blintz, fold in the sides, and then roll up from the bottom, enclosing the filling. Repeat with the remaining blintzes and filling. 5 Preheat the oven to 200F (95C). Have ready a rimmed baking sheet. In a large frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons clarified butter over medium heat. In batches, add the blintzes to the pan and cook, seam side down, until the bottoms are golden, about 2 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed so the blintzes cook steadily to heat the filling without getting too brown. Flip the blintzes over and cook until the other sides are golden, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to the baking sheet and keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining blintzes, adding more clarified butter to the pan as needed. 6 In the same frying pan, warm the honey over medium-low heat. Stir in the blueberries and cook just until heated through, about 1 minute. To serve, place 2 or 3 blintzes on each plate. Top with the blueberries, sour cream, and confectioners sugar, if using. Serve at once.

1 1/2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

Clarified Butter (page 212) or canola oil for cooking

/4 lb (375 g) farmers cheese, at room temperature /2 lb (250 g) cream cheese, at room temperature Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon 1 tablespoon honey 1 pint (8 oz/250 g) blueberries Sour cream for serving Confectioners sugar for serving (optional)

makes 4 6 servings

FROM THE GRIDDLE 41

cheesy Egg Sandwiches

6 Pork and Sage Sausage Patties (page 177) 6 slices sharp Cheddar cheese 6 English muffins, split in half crosswise 6 large eggs Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

You may be able to purchase a pale imitation of this sandwich at a fast-food joint, but it would bear little resemblance to one freshly made in your own kitchen. This recipe is proof that it couldnt be simpler to fry and assemble the ingredients. Within minutes, youll reap the rewards of egg, sausage, and cheese melding into a savory breakfast eaten out of hand.

makes 6 servings

1 Prepare and shape the sausage patties as directed. Heat a large frying pan, preferably nonstick, over medium heat. Add the patties and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook until the undersides are browned, about 5 minutes. Flip the patties and cook until browned on the other sides and the centers feel firm when pressed with your finger, about 5 minutes more. Place a slice of cheese on each patty, cover the pan, and cook until the cheese melts, about 1 minute. Remove the patties from the pan and set aside on a paper towellined plate until ready to use. Discard the fat from the pan. 2 Preheat the broiler. Place the muffin halves, cut side up, on a baking sheet and toast in the broiler until lightly crisped, about 2 minutes. Remove and set aside. 3 In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, 14 teaspoon salt, and a few grinds of pepper just until thoroughly blended. Do not overbeat. Wipe out the frying pan with paper towels. Add the butter and heat over medium heat until melted and hot. Tilt the pan to coat the bottom with the butter. Add the egg mixture to the pan and cook until the eggs have barely begun to set around the edges, about 30 seconds. Using a heatproof spatula, lift the cooked edges and gently push them towards the center, tilting the pan to allow the liquid egg on top to flow underneath, then cook for about 30 seconds. Repeat the process again, but this time cover the frying pan, and cook until the eggs have set into a thin omelet, about 30 seconds longer. Remove from the heat. Using the heatproof spatula, divide the omelet into 6 wedges. 4 Top 6 of the muffin halves with the sausage patties, then a wedge of the eggs, folded to fit. Cover with the remaining muffin halves. Serve at once. variation Of course, fried eggs (page 211) would be just as delicious as scrambled eggs. And cooked smoked ham or bacon could easily stand in for the sausage.

EGGS , GLORIOUS EGGS 65

Asparagus and fried eggs

1 lb (500 g) plump asparagus, trimmed 4 tablespoons (2 fl oz/60 ml) olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1

A simple fried egg is a delight to eat, especially when the buttery yolk mingles with a bed of earthy roasted asparagus spears. Topped with salty pancetta, bread crumbs, and fresh herbs, this is a simple dish with big flavor. I like to make it in the spring when asparagus is at its peak.

/4 lb (125 g) pancetta, chopped

1 cup (2 oz/60 g) fresh bread crumbs (page 217) 4 large eggs Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley for serving

1 Preheat the oven to 400F (200C). Spread the asparagus in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Roll the asparagus in the oil until lightly coated. Roast until the asparagus are just tender, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. 2 Meanwhile, combine the pancetta and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large frying pan. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to paper towels to drain. Add the bread crumbs to the fat in the pan. Cook, stirring often, until crisp and browned, about 1 minute. Return the pancetta to the pan and stir well. Transfer the pancetta and bread crumbs to a plate. 3 Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the pan and warm over medium heat. One at a time, crack the eggs into the pan. Season with salt and pepper, cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the whites are set, about 2 minutes for sunny-side-up eggs. Or carefully flip the eggs and cook to the desired doneness. 4 Divide the asparagus among 4 individual serving dishes or plates. Top each serving with an egg and sprinkle generously with the pancetta and bread crumbs. Garnish with the parsley and serve at once.

makes 4 servings

EGGS , GLORIOUS EGGS 69

C i n n a m o n - r a i s i n -s w i r l

breakfast loaf
1

/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) whole milk

The aroma of this classic breakfast bread wafting from the oven will get anyone out of bed in the morning. Try to wait for thirty minutes or so before slicing it, as the cooling period allows the flavors to bloom. After that, cut a slice, slather it with butter, and savor that first amazing bite.

/2 cup (4 oz/125 g) sugar

4 tablespoons (2 oz/60 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus 2 tablespoons melted butter for brushing 1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons) quick-rise yeast 3 cups (15 oz/470 g) bread flour, or as needed 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1

/2 cup (3 oz/90 g) raisins

makes 1 loaf

1 In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine 1 2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) cold water, the milk, 14 cup (2 oz/60 g) of the sugar, the 4 tablespoons room temperature butter, and the yeast. Add 2 12 cups (12 12 oz/390 g) of the flour and the salt. With the mixer on medium-low speed, add enough of the remaining flour to make a soft dough that does not stick to the bowl. Remove the paddle attachment and fit the stand mixer with the dough hook attachment. Knead the dough on medium-low speed, adding more flour if needed, until the dough is smooth but still soft, 67 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball. 2 Lightly butter a large bowl. Add the dough and turn to coat with the butter. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let the dough rise in a warm spot until it doubles in bulk, 1 141 12 hours. 3 Lightly butter a 9-by-5-inch (23-by-13-cm) loaf pan. Punch down the dough and turn out onto a floured work surface. Dust the top of the dough with flour. Roll out into a 9-inch (23-cm) square. In a small bowl, mix together the cinnamon, raisins, and remaining 14 cup (2 oz/60 g) sugar. Sprinkle evenly over the dough, leaving a 12-inch (12-mm) border around all sides. Roll up the dough into a log and pinch the seam to seal. Transfer to the loaf pan, seam side down, and lightly press the top of the dough to evenly fill the pan. Loosely cover with plastic wrap. Let stand in a warm spot until the dough rises to the top of the pan, about 1 hour. 4 Preheat the oven to 350F (180C). Brush the loaf gently with the melted butter. Bake until the top of the loaf is golden brown and the bottom, when the loaf is carefully removed from the pan, sounds hollow when rapped on the bottom with your knuckles, 3540 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Invert onto the rack, then invert again and let cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing.

SWEET TREATS 124

Grilled polenta
w ith B l ack B e a n Sa l sa

Kosher salt 1 1/3 cups (9 1/2 oz/295 g) coarse-ground polenta 1 can (15 oz/485 g) black beans, drained and rinsed 1 large ripe tomato, seeded and diced /2 cup (3 oz/90 g) fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels
1

Black bean tamales are one of my favorite snacks at my local farmers market. But the multi-step method of stuffing, rolling, and steaming requires more time and attention than I usually have available. This dishwhich features thick wedges of polenta and an easy-to-prepare chile, corn, and black bean salsais a tasty alternative.

/4 cup (1 1/2 oz/45 g) minced yellow onion

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1 hot fresh green chile, such as jalapeo or serrano, seeded and minced 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tablespoon olive oil /2 cup (2 1/2 oz/75 g) crumbled queso fresco or feta cheese for serving
1

1 To make the polenta, in a large, heavy saucepan, bring 5 13 cups (43 fl oz/1.3 l) water and 1 12 teaspoons salt to a boil over medium-high heat. Gradually whisk in the polenta. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Cook, whisking frequently, until the polenta is thick and creamy, about 45 minutes. Add up to 12 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) water by tablespoons if the polenta begins to stick to the bottom of the pan. (Be careful as the hot polenta can splatter.) 2 Lightly oil a 9-by-13-inch (23-by-33-cm) baking dish. Spread the polenta in the dish. Cover the polenta with parchment or waxed paper and refrigerate until firm and cold, at least 1 12 hours or up to overnight. (This can be done the night before serving.) 3 To make the black bean salsa, stir the beans, tomato, corn, onion, cilantro, lime juice, chile, and garlic in a bowl. Season with salt. Cover and let stand to blend the flavors, at least 30 minutes. 4 Preheat the broiler. Have ready a rimmed baking sheet. Cut the polenta crosswise into 6 rectangles, and brush the tops with half of the olive oil. Using a wide spatula, transfer the polenta pieces to the baking sheet, oiled sides down. Brush with the remaining olive oil. Place in the broiler about 6 inches (15 cm) from the heat source. Broil, turning once, until both sides are golden, about 5 minutes per side. 5 Cut each rectangle into 3 triangles. Arrange 3 triangles on each plate, and top with the bean salsa, dividing it evenly. Sprinkle with the cheese and serve at once. variations Pinto beans can stand in for the black beans. You can also substitute Spicy Black Beans with Chorizo (page 184) for the salsa.

makes 6 servings

SAVORY DELIGHTS 152

maple-glazed bacon
w ith cr ack e d b l ack pe ppe r

12 thick slices applewood-smoked bacon 2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

Those who surreptitiously drizzle a little extra maple syrup off to the side of their pancakes understand the maple-bacon love affair. This recipe is a dangerous combination of those sweet, salty, and crunchy elements that render it completely addictive. Its so easy to make that after trying it, you may never want plain-old bacon again.

/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

makes 6 servings

1 Preheat the oven to 400F (200C). Spread the bacon out in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. 2 Bake until the bacon is barely crisp and browned, 1520 minutes. Carefully drain off and discard the fat from the baking sheet. 3 Brush 1 tablespoon of the maple syrup over the bacon strips and sprinkle with half of the pepper. Return to the oven and bake until glazed and shiny, about 2 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and, using tongs, flip the bacon slices over. Brush the other sides with the remaining 1 tablespoon syrup and sprinkle with the remaining pepper. Bake again until glazed and shiny, about 2 minutes more. Transfer the bacon to a serving platter. Let stand 23 minutes (the bacon will firm up and become extra-crispy). Serve warm. variation You can use honey in place of the maple syrup. You can also experiment with different kinds of peppers (such as white or Sichuan) or chile powders (such as cayenne or chipotle).

ON THE SIDE 1 74

cafe pasquals Santa Fe, NM Named for the folk saint of Mexican and New Mexican kitchens, Cafe Pasquals serves unsurpassable versions of Southwestern food, with a focus on freshand mostly organicingredients. Housed in a historic pueblo-style adobe located in downtown Santa Fe, and festively decorated with colorful Mexican tiles, hand-painted murals, and strings of dried chile peppers, the restaurant truly reflects its surroundings. Owner Katharine Kagels expansive menu includes favorites like huevos rancheros , breakfast burritos, and papas fritas , crispy potatoes doused in a red or green chile sauce, covered in melted cheese, and served with a flour or corn tortilla. If you cant decide between the two chile sauces, order your potatoes Christmas-style for some of each. At home, you can make either sauce, or both, as they freeze well. And youd better be hungry, because this recipe makes generous portions. If you can, fry the potatoes in clarified butter, which imparts a buttery flavor but wont burn over higher heat levels like regular butter.

b ut te r m i lk

angel Biscuits
2 1/2 cups (12 1/2 oz/390 g) all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder
1

These angel biscuits owe their light, airy texture to the use of multiple leaveners in the dough. I make these often, usually in a big batch. The dough can be refrigerated for a couple of days, so you can bake fresh biscuits, a few at a time, whenever you want them. Cutting the dough into squares instead of rounds eliminates scraps.

/2 teaspoon baking soda /2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon quick-rise yeast /4 cup (2 oz/60 g) unsalted butter, cut into cubes, chilled, plus room temperature butter for serving
1 1 /4 cup (2 oz/60 g) vegetable shortening, cut into cubes, chilled

1 In a bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir in the yeast. Using a pastry blender or 2 knives, cut the butter and shortening into the flour mixture just until the mixture forms coarse crumbs about the size of peas. Add the buttermilk to the dry ingredients and stir with a fork or rubber spatula just until combined. 2 Shape the dough into a ball. Lightly butter a large bowl. Add the dough and turn to coat with the butter. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let the dough rise in a warm spot until it doubles in bulk, about 1 14 hours. (The dough can be refrigerated for up to 2 days before baking. After the dough is made, shape into a thick disk, close in a zippered plastic bag, and refrigerate. Punch down every 12 hours or so. Remove from the refrigerator 1 hour before patting it out.) 3 Preheat the oven to 425F (220C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Punch down the dough, then turn out onto a floured work surface. Pat into a 10-by-5-inch (25-by-13-cm) rectangle about 34 inch (2 cm) thick. Cut into ten 2-inch (5-cm) squares. Place 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, 1720 minutes. Serve the biscuits warm with butter and honey.

1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) buttermilk Honey or Quick Strawberry Jam (page 102) for serving

makes 10 biscuits

ON THE SIDE 191

415 Jackson Street, Suite 200, San Francisco, CA 94111 Telephone: 415 291 0100 Fax: 415 291 8841 www.weldonowen.com A division of

BREAKFAST COMFORTS Conceived and produced by Weldon Owen, Inc. in collaboration with Williams-Sonoma, Inc. 3250 Van Ness Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94109 Printed and bound in China by 1010 Printing, Ltd. This edition first printed in 2013 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data is available ISBN-13: 978-1-61628-601-9 ISBN-10: 1-61628-601-6

a weldon owen production First edition copyright 2010 Weldon Owen, Inc. and Williams-Sonoma, Inc. This edition copyright 2013 All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form. Photographer Maren Caruso Food Stylist Robyn Valarik Prop Stylist Leigh Noe

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Weldon Owen wishes to thank the following people for their generous support in producing this book: David Evans, Leslie Evans, Rachel Lopez Metzger, Deneane Niebergall, Elizabeth Parson, Emily Polar, Elise Ravet, Lesli Sommerdorf, Jane Tunks, Stacy Ventura, Jason Wheeler, and Tracy White. Weldon Owen and Rick Rodgers would like to extend their gratitude to the owners and workers of the restaurants who participated in this project: Blu Jam Cafe, Cafe Pasquals, Daily Cafe, Hells Kitchen, Highland Bakery, Hominy Grill, HotChocolate, Jacks Firehouse, Kerbey Lane Cafe, Michaels Genuine Food & Drink, Portage Bay Cafe, The Ruby Slipper Cafe, Sarabeths, Snooze Eatery, Sweet 16th - A Bakery, and Universal Cafe. All photographs by Maren Caruso except for the following: Davis Ayer (page 53, bottom); Sabina Bonvillain (page 63, top); Emma Boys (page 40, bottom); David Burch (page 7, bottom left and bottom right; page 20, bottom); John Casado (page 7, middle; page 147, top); June Cochran (page 162, top); Brian Doben (back flap); Peter Frank Edwards (page 7, top left and top right; page 193, top; back cover, middle left); Mick Houston (page 7, middle left; page 76, bottom); Kristi Kienholz (page 117, top); Alan Klehr (page 128, bottom); Kitty Leaken (page 181, bottom); Mark J. Logan (page 171, bottom); Melissa Madison Fuller (page 154, bottom); Kristina Sacci (page 30, top); Jackie Sayet (page 7, middle right; page 104, bottom); Tucker + Hossler (page 204); Ben Yap (page 86, top). Front cover: Raised Belgian Waffles with Strawberries and Whipped Cream. Back cover: Monkey Bread with Strawberry Caramel Sauce; Maple-Glazed Bacon with Cracked Black Pepper; Sweet Potato Pancakes with Pecans and Brown-Sugar Sauce; Cinnamon Rolls with Cream Cheese Icing.