ECO 2210Y Topic No. 33. Draperies Old and New: The Transformations of The Textile Industries in The Low Countries, England, and France, 1450 - 1600

Prof. John H.
Munro Department of Economics University of Toronto
munro5@chass.utoronto.ca john.munro@utoronto.ca http://www.economics.utoronto.ca/munro5/ ECO 2210Y
Topic no. 33. Draperies Old and New: the Transformations of the Textile Industries in the Low Countries, England, and France, 1450 - 1600. 1. John Munro, Textile Technology, in Joseph R. Strayer, et al., eds., The Dictionary of the Middle Ages, Vol. XI (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1988), pp. 693-715. Reprinted in John Munro, Textiles, Towns, and Trade: Essays in the Economic History of Late-Medieval England and the Low Countries, Variorum Collected Studies series CS 442 (London, 1994). Henri Pirenne, Une crise industrielle au XVIe sicle: la draperie urbaine et la nouvelle draperie en Flandre, Bulletin de l'Academie royale de Belgique: Classe des Belles Lettres (Brussels, 1905), reprinted in Histoire conomique de l'occident mdival, ed. Emile Coornaert (Bruges, 1951), pp. 621-43. A classic, seminal article, which has unfortunately been responsible for much confusion about the nouvelle draperies, draperies lgeres, sayetteries, and the English New Draperies. Emile Coornaert, Draperies rurales, draperies urbaines: l'evolution de l'industrie flamande au moyen ge et au XVI sicle, Revue belge de philologie et d'histoire, 28 (1950), 60-96. Donald C. Coleman, An Innovation and its Diffusion: the New Draperies', Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 22:3 (1969), 417-29. A very major and seminal contribution that also contains very serious errors, in both textile technology and in textile history. Negley B. Harte, ed., The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England, 1300 - 1800, Pasold Studies in Textile History, Vol. 10 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1997). a) John Munro, The Origin of the English New Draperies: The Resurrection of an Old Flemish Industry, 1270 - 1570, pp. 35-127. b) Robert S. Duplessis, One Theory, Two Draperies, Three Provinces, and a Multitude of Fabrics: the New Drapery of French Flanders, Hainaut, and the Tournaisis, c.1500 - c.1800, pp. 129-72. c) Leo Noordegraaf, The New Draperies in the Northern Netherlands, 1500 - 1800, pp. 173196. d) B. A. Holderness, The Reception and Distribution of the New Draperies in England, pp. 217-44. e) Luc Martin, The Rise of the New Draperies in Norwich, 1550 - 1622, pp. 245-74. f) Ursula Priestley, Norwich Stuffs, 1600 - 1700, pp. 275-88. See also the review, by Karel Davids (Amsterdam), in Journal of Economic History, 59:3 (Sept. 1999), 801-03. Patrick Chorley, The Draperies Lgres of Lille, Arras, Tournai, Valenciennes: New Materials for New Markets?, in Marc Boone and Walter Prevenier, eds., La draperie ancienne des Pays Bas: dbouchs et stratgies de survie 14e - 16e sicles/ Drapery Production in the late medieval Low Countries: Markets and Strategies for Survival. 14th-16th Centuries (Leuven, 1993), pp. 151-66. Marci Sortor, Saint-Omer and Its Textile Trades in the Late Middle Ages: A Contribution to the
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Proto-industrialization Debate, The American Historical Review, 98:4 (October 1993), 1475-99. *7. Peter Bowden, The Wool Supply and the Woollen Industry, Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 9 (1956-57), 44-58; Peter Bowden, The Wool Trade in Tudor and Stuart England (London, 1962), pp. 1-76. Very important for the shift in wool supplies from the Old to New Draperies in England. Charles Wilson, Cloth Production and International Competition in the Seventeenth Century, Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 13 (1960), reprinted in Charles Wilson, Economic History and the Historian: Collected Essays (London, 1969), pp. 94-113. Crucial, seminal, excellent study!! Barry Supple, Commercial Crisis and Change: England, 1600-1642 (Cambridge, 1964), Chapters 2, 3, 5, and 7: on the cloth trades, the Old and New Draperies. J.E. Pilgrim, The Rise of the New Draperies in Essex, University of Birmingham Historical Journal, 7 (1959-60), 36-59. K.J. Allison, The Norfolk Worsted Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries, 1: The Traditional Industry, Yorkshire Bulletin of Economic and Social Research, 12 (1960), 73-83; and K. J. Allison, The Norfolk Worsted Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries, 2: The New Draperies, Yorkshire Bulletin of Economic and Social Research, 13 (1961), 61-77. Herbert Heaton, The Yorkshire Woollen and Worsted Industries from the Earliest Times to the Industrial Revolution, 2nd edn. (Oxford, 1965), chapters 1-3. J. Geraint Jenkins, ed., The Wool Textile Industry in Great Britain (London: Routledge, 1972): see the following: Eric Kerridge, Wool Growing and Wool Textiles in Medieval and Early Modern Times, pp. 19-33; and John Pilgrim, The Cloth Industry in East Anglia, pp. 252-68. Ursula Priestley, The Fabric of Stuffs: the Norwich Textile Industry, c. 1650 - 1750, Textile History, 16:2 (Autumn 1985), 183 - 210. And also her expanded monograph: Ursula Priestley, The Fabric of Stuffs: The Norwich Textile Industry from 1565, Centre of East Anglian Studies, University of East Anglia (Norwich, 1990); and, finally, Ursula Priestley, The Marketing of Norwich Stuffs, c. 1660 - 1730, Textile History, 22:2 (Autumn 1991), 193 - 210. Eric Kerridge, Textile Manufactures in Early Modern England (Manchester, 1985). John Munro, The Symbiosis of Towns and Textiles: Urban Institutions and the Changing Fortunes of Cloth Manufacturing in the Low Countries and England, 1270 -1570, The Journal of Early Modern History: Contacts, Comparisons, Contrasts, 3:1 (February: 1999): 1-74. Carole Shammas, The Decline of Textile Prices in England and British America prior to Industrialization, Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 47:3 (August 1994), 483 - 507.
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QUESTIONS: 1. What were the New Draperies, in England; and how did they differ from the Old Draperies?. What
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are the differences between the New Draperies in England and the nouvelle draperies (i.e. New Draperies) in the Low Countries? What are the relationships between the English New Draperies and the draperies lgres and sayetteries in the Low Countries? 2. What are the origins of the English New Draperies: in what respects do they represent a revival of ancient forms of textile making? How do the Flemish sayetteries of the 15th and 16th centuries resemble those of the 12th and 13th centuries, especially those of Hondschoote (Flanders)? Explain the structural changes in the English textile industries: the gradual decline of the Old Draperies and the rise of the New Draperies, in terms of both supply and demand factors: in particular in terms of changes in wool supplies, capital, technology costs, overseas markets, changes in fashions, and the structure of European demand. How, when, where, and why did the rise of the New Draperies compensate for the decline of the Old Draperies, by the mid to later 17th century?
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Prof. John H.

Munro Department of Economics University of Toronto

munro5@chass.utoronto.ca john.munro@utoronto.ca http://www.economics.utoronto.ca/munro5/ ECO 2210Y

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