8 MBK Kites 1 Skewer Series
8 MBK Kites 1 Skewer Series
8 MBK Kites 1 Skewer Series
com
Table of Contents
Introduction.............................................................................................................................9
Format.................................................................................................................................................... 9
Using Printouts....................................................................................................................................... 9
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1-Skewer Barn Door Kite Tips............................................................................................................ 39
1-Skewer Barn Door Kite Plan View Photos......................................................................................39
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1-Skewer Delta Kite Tips................................................................................................................... 72
1-Skewer Delta Kite Plan View Photos..............................................................................................72
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The 1-Skewer Box Kite......................................................................................................108
1-Skewer Box Kite Plans......................................................................................................109
1-Skewer Box Kite Tips.................................................................................................................... 110
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2-Skewer Diamond Kite Tail............................................................................................................. 148
2-Skewer Diamond Kite Flying!........................................................................................................ 149
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2-Skewer Sode Kite - Flying!.............................................................................................................. 192
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2-Skewer Dopero Kite - Bridle............................................................................................................ 235
2-Skewer Dopero Kite - Preparing To Fly............................................................................................ 237
2-Skewer Dopero Kite - Flying!........................................................................................................... 238
Appendix 1 Requirements...............................................................................................253
Appendix 2 Making Tails.................................................................................................255
Appendix 3 Flying Line And Winder................................................................................257
MBK150 Kite Winder Plan.................................................................................................................. 258
Making The Quick Kite Winder........................................................................................................... 259
Making The NICE Kite Winder!........................................................................................................... 260
The Flying Line................................................................................................................................... 261
Appendix 4 Knots............................................................................................................262
The Simple Knot................................................................................................................................. 262
The Multi-Strand Simple Knot............................................................................................................. 263
The Multi Strand Double Knot............................................................................................................. 264
The Granny Knot................................................................................................................................ 265
The Loop Knot.................................................................................................................................... 266
The Lark's Head Knot......................................................................................................................... 267
The Half Hitch Knot............................................................................................................................. 268
The Prusik Knot.................................................................................................................................. 269
The Slip Knot...................................................................................................................................... 270
The Double Loop Knot........................................................................................................................ 271
The Figure Eight Knot......................................................................................................................... 272
Update History...................................................................................................................273
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Introduction
This eBook provides very detailed step-by-step construction information for all the kites
made of skewers and plastic which are featured on the My Best Kite website. Plus knottying examples and all the other useful website info relevant to making these kites for
yourself. Hence you have all the information conveniently in the one spot.
Required tools, if you can call them that, are very minimal just a pair of scissors and a
ruler! There's a few other items too, which are quite likely to be found around the house
somewhere.
Format...
Here's a summary of the information and images provided for each Skewer kite...
A selected Flight Report, in which I share some of our flying experiences with the
original kite.
Being quite small already, none of these kites need to be packed down or taken apart in
any way for transport. Just gather the tail, if it has one, and find a resting spot on top of
anything else that happens to be in the car.
Most of the single-surface kites have a set of 3-view Plans plus a list of hints and 2 planview photos. For more experienced builders who just need the basic specs!
The Appendices at the end of this eBook provide extra information which will be useful for
the first-time builder of an MBK Skewer kite. I'd definitely recommend a quick read of
Appendix 1 through to Appendix 4 before you start building.
Using Printouts...
You might like to print out this entire eBook and bind it in a simple cover or folder.
Magazine shops usually have binders and covers of various kinds. Another approach is to
just print out the Appendices, plus instructions for a kite or 2 as and when required. The
Table of Contents makes this easy, since you can just look up the page-range needed for
printing.
To save on ink costs, find GrayScale in your printer's Properties settings, and set it so
color ink isn't used. For color, you can always refer back to this PDF on the screen. Also,
look for Draft or Fast in the Properties. This will ensure the printer uses much less black
ink too. If you are a Mac user, you should be able to find similar settings for your printer.
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2 bamboo BBQ skewers, 30cm or 12 inch (possibly the only thing you might need to
buy)
a ruler
The following 10 steps are designed for maximum speed, at the expense of some
accuracy. However, the human eye is good at lining things up and dividing lengths in 2 - so
the end result should fly fine! It looks a lot, scrolling through, but each step is very short
and easy. There's nothing hard about kite making for children.
Step 1. Snip the points off both bamboo skewers.
Step 2. By eye, mark the center points on both skewers. Then, on one of the skewers,
make another mark exactly half-way between the first mark and one end of the skewer. No
fiddly measuring involved in this kite for kids project!
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Step 3. Open out some colored plastic, lay it flat on your work space or table top, and
arrange the skewers as shown.
Step 4. Mark the positions of the skewer ends with the marker pen, making dots. Then
remove the bamboo skewers and join the dots, using the pen and ruler.
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Step 5. Cut out the diamond shape with the scissors, then lay down the vertical skewer,
then lay down the horizontal skewer.
Step 6. Use 4 short rectangles of tape to wrap around the ends of the skewers. First do
the vertical skewer, sticking tape down as indicated by the red rectangles in the photo.
Wrap the tape over and under, onto the other side of the plastic. Then do the ends of the
horizontal skewer. This is probably the trickiest part of this 'kite for kids' project.
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Step 7. Cut out a ribbon of plastic, about as wide as 2 adult fingers, and at least 10 times
as long as one skewer. Attach sections together with tape if you can't get the length out of
one bag or sheet. Ragged or wavy edges don't matter at all, in fact it will work even better!
Step 8. Thread one end of the plastic ribbon between the bamboo and the plastic, near the
bottom end of the kite, and tie it off. Cut off the excess plastic, so it looks neater than the
one in the photo!
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Step 9. Where the skewers cross, poke a small hole in the plastic, using the point of
another skewer. Now cut off 15 meters or 50 feet of your string or strong thread. Poke one
end of the string through the hole and securely tie the crossed skewers together. Do the
knot whichever way you find easiest. You're nearly ready to fly this kite for kids!
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Step 10. Wind the remaining string or thread onto a small block of wood or stiff card,
starting from the free end. There's no need for a fancy shop-bought reel when making a
kite for kids!
You are now ready to fly the kite! Weather permitting, of course.
If there is no wind, with this kite kids can still have fun. Just encourage the child to run
around towing the kite. It's a good idea to get the Diamond in the air yourself first, with the
child holding the winder. Then the child can just start running. Hope you've enjoyed this
experience of making kites for kids!
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The template shown above represents one side
of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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TIP: It's best to fold and twist the towing point tape before forming the knot. Otherwise, it's
too easy to shear off the tape when attempting to tighten the knot!
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The winds seemed to strengthen a little during the last flight. The highest wind speeds
blew the game little Sled kite down to 30 degrees or so. But it hung in there, and never
looped out of control.
At other times, rising air came through, causing a lowering of the line tension while the kite
floated face-down. So a few nice thermal climbs resulted, when I let the kite float vertically
upwards with line slipping slowly through my fingers.
There was an exhilarating moment on 60 meters (200 feet) of line when the tiny 1 Skewer
Sled kite reached a 60 degree flying angle. A short time later, it got punished with a blast of
fresh wind and I had to pull in line very quickly to avoid a close call with some tall trees!
There's never a dull moment when flying tiny kites.
I must say that I'm very happy with the performance of this small Sled. It is definitely a
better and more reliable flier overall than the original clear-plastic, tape-edged 1-Skewer
Sled kite.
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Wait for the glue to dry. Maybe start another one of these
kites, so you can fly them together in a train later on!
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At this point, you've finished making the 1-Skewer
Diamond!
Now, make up a flying line (Appendix 3) and
attach it to the bridle with a Lark's Head knot as
shown in the photo.
Now for the cool bit... If you have made 2 or more
kites, each attached to their own flying line, you
can hitch them together in a train. Just put a fairsized Loop knot into both ends of each flying line,
and then it's easy to attach and un-attach the
kites. My first 2 Diamonds flew great with a 10
meter (35 feet) line between them.
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Both Diamonds responded immediately to shifts in wind direction. Somehow, the wind
shifts were a lot more obvious when more than one kite was on the line! Imagine all 8 1Skewer designs flying in a train stretching up to 400 feet... It might happen one day.
Lulls would lead to both kites sinking low sometimes. At other times, very fresh gusts
would put Number 1 into a dive towards the ground, dragging Number 2 with it. And then
Number 2 started to twirl around in loops, completely overpowered, while Number 1 hung
on maintaining its composure. And so on and so forth.
Maybe 20% of the time, wind strengths would be near the ideal for these kites. It was then
very gratifyingly to watch them soar up to a 45 degree line angle in tandem, swaying and
rocking just a little as the long tails kept the noses pointed upwind.
With such small kites on nearly 90 meters (300 feet) of line, there was bound to be a little
excitement from time to time. I'm talking about those trees lurking in wait around the
reserve perimeter! Number 2 had a near miss with one such tree. However, 1 Skewer
Diamond kite Number 1 helped me to pull it free through some small twigs! Phew.
It's definitely more fun flying 2 kites on the one line like this. We'll have to do more of it! I
can see most of the 1-Skewer kites lending themselves to this 'ready-to-train' approach ,
as I re-design them one by one.
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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NOTE: Don't worry if your sail dimensions don't
look exactly like the photos below. Just stick to
the Template measurements, which were used for
my most recently tested kite!
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Secure the the Granny knot with a small dob of glue, or it will come loose!
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This design seems to need a little tail-weight for stability, so stick a couple of strips of
sticky tape along the whole length of the trailing edge. That is, the edge of the sail
between the lower tips of the 2 diagonal spars.
Now, make up a flying line (Appendix 3) and attach it
to the bridle with a Lark's Head knot as shown in the
photo.
Now for the cool bit... If you have made 2 or more
kites, each attached to their own flying line, you can
hitch them together in a train. Just put a fair-sized
Loop knot into both ends of each flying line, and then
it's easy to attach and unattach the kites.
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Hey, expect the unexpected with tiny kites, it's a different kind of fun to flying much larger
ultra-predictable designs.
Of course, there were times when the line would tension up nicely as the wind strength
picked up by a few knots, causing the 1 Skewer Barn Door kite to lean back and climb
steadily up for a hundred feet or so. Like any single-surface kite on a simple bridle.
With more than 30 meters (100 feet) of 20 pound line out, there was considerable sag,
with the kite flying at well under 45 degrees. Unless pushed up with a little rising air!
Talking about rising and descending air...
Since the 1 Skewer Barn Door kite was nearly always in the vicinity of a thermal, it was
hard to tell exactly what line angles the kite would achieve in cold smooth air. I suspect 4045 degrees. But no more than 50, even on a short line. So, the small Barn Door is a
modest performer with its tail limiting its flying angle. But it's something different to an
ordinary old Diamond isn't it! It's sure to get a few curious looks from people passing by.
The 1 Skewer Barn Door kite kept me so busy trying to keep it in the air, that I didn't take
much notice of the birds that flew through today. I do recall a lone white cockatoo flapping
its way across the field, and several flocks of birds in the distance. Unidentified Feathered
Objects.
This Barn Door is a nice little kite, although somewhat more fickle in flight than the 1Skewer Diamond. As with the Diamond, a reasonably smooth, light wind would allow you
to train 8 or more of these together on a 30 pound line. That would make quite a spectacle!
Another idea - train both types of kites, perhaps alternating between Barn Door and
Diamond. For this many kites, a 5 meter line between each one might be about right. You
have to give those tails some room!
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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The vertical spar is 1.4SL (40.6cm, 16") long, so two 30cm (12") bamboo BBQ skewers
need to be glued together.
From yet another skewer, cut off 2 lengths of 0.15SL (4.4cm, 1 3/4") each. Place
these beside the join, as in the photo.
Lay down a line of wood glue on each side, and leave to dry.
Get down low and look along the skewers to ensure they make a straight line,
before the glue sets!
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At this point, you've finished making the 1-Skewer
Rokkaku!
Now, make up a flying line (Appendix 3) and
attach it to the bridle with a Lark's Head knot as
shown in the photo.
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The 1 Skewer Rokkaku kite evidently has a slight right-turn built in, which caused looping
during stronger gusts, and generally limited the height achieved. So I brought the kite
down and added back the tail section which had been removed earlier. I also shifted the
towing point back just a fraction.
Walking back to the tree, I noticed the kite's shadow creeping upwind as the little Rok
soared higher and higher directly above. Watching the kite for several minutes, it was
surprising how much difference the extra length of tail was making! The Rok flew
straighter, smoother and higher than before. It was a pleasure to watch the long, gently
weaving climbs as the wind strength freshened from time to time.
For tech-heads: regarding the maximum height, the reduced tendency to loop outweighed
the effect of the increase in drag of the extra tail. By far!
According to the wind meter, the breeze had averaged 3.3 kph most of the time, rising to
3.4 kph for a while. Max wind speed at ground level was 10.2 kph. But I'm sure it was
more like 15 kph higher up.
With 5 minutes to go before wife and child would expect to be picked up from the close-by
supermarket, I brought the Rok down. Nice flight!
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Firstly, take a light plastic bag that will fit the entire
Template shape within one side, and lay it flat on the
floor.
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From yet another skewer, cut off 2 lengths of 0.3SL (8.7cm, 3 1/2") each. Place
these beside the join, as in the photo.
Lay down a line of wood glue on each side, and leave to dry. The joint also serves
to bring the balance point back towards the tail for more stability.
Get down low and look along the skewers to ensure they make a straight line,
before the glue sets! The photo shows the join after the glue has set.
Lay down another skewer across the top left and right
corners of the sail, and again snip to length, removing
the point. Also make an easily-seen mark on the
skewer at the exact center-point. This is the upper
horizontal spar.
Do those last 3 steps again, to make another spar. This will be the lower horizontal
spar.
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Finally, lay another skewer across the bottom edge of the sail, and snip to length.
This is the bottom horizontal spar. Note that the camera has caused a little
curvature in the picture - to your eye, everything should look square.
Those indents will help ensure the bamboo bends at the right spot when you later create
the dihedrals!
Lay down the vertical spar skewer over the sail, and
wrap a short length of clear sticky tape around the top
tip, securing it to the top corner of the sail. The photo
shows the top tip in close-up.
Fold the tabs over the skewers and stick down with
several small squares of tape. The kite should now
look like the photo over there.
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Cut out a long thin rectangle of colored plastic for the tail. Mine is black, to contrast
with the orange sail. Make it 12.0SL (350cm, 140") long and 0.15SL (4.4cm, 1 3/4")
wide. Knot pieces together if necessary, to get the full length. Avoid taping, because
it adds weight!
Slit the plastic sail near each tip of the bottom horizontal spar, just enough to slip the
ends of the tail through. Tie off each end of the tail with a single Half Hitch. Pull until
firm, then snip off any excess plastic poking out of the knot. See the photo for the
end result.
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At this point, you've finished making the 1-Skewer
Sode!
Now, make up a flying line (Appendix 3) and
attach it to the bridle with a Lark's Head knot as
shown in the photo.
Coincidentally, the position of the Prusik knot in
the photo shows you how to set the bridle for
moderate winds. In lighter winds, you could try
shifting the Prusik lower, by just a few millimeters
(a small fraction of an inch)
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Eventually we had the line out to 90 meters, which is starting to be a bit heavy for this
small-area kite. But it coped well, straining away in the moderate breeze.
When it was time to bring the kite down, I let my 4 year old Aren fly it on a short line while
we walked back to the car. The tiny orange kite continued to fly reliably in the gustier air
down low, so I managed to get a few photos of Aren and the 1-Skewer Sode in the same
frame.
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Firstly, take a bag that you want to use for the sail,
and lay it flat on the floor.
Flip the plastic bag over, and trace over all the black lines using your marker pen
and ruler.
Cut out a rectangular section of the bag containing the kite sail, open it out and lay it
flat on the floor - you can now see the complete sail outline, as in the photo up
there.
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Place these 2 skewers along the fold-lines of the tabs. Snip both skewers to length,
removing the points, so they are as long as the tabs. These are the leading-edge
spars.
Measure 0.42SL (12.2cm, 4 3/4") from the top end of the vertical spar, and make a
mark on it there. Select another skewer, snip the point off, and place it over this
mark, so each end sits over a leading edge spar as in the photo. This is the
spreader.
Apply glue where the spars cross each other, but not onto the vertical spar. While
this is drying, you can get on with the keel. Hey, it's starting to look like a Delta!
Where the 4 pieces of line come together, tie a Multi-Strand Simple knot (Appendix
4) close to the plastic, then tie a second one further out, as per the photo.
Also knot the lines at the other 2 corners, using the same kind of knot. Adjust them
so they are flush with the plastic.
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At this point you need to make sure the glue is dry on the bamboo frame. If it is...
Using the keel to find the exact spot, poke another hole in the sail near the trailing
edge. Thread the lines through and tie off tightly, again using a Granny knot.
With the keel flush against the plastic sail, add sticky tape along the full length of
the keel, attaching it to the sail plastic. Flip the keel over and do the other side too.
Put a small drop of wood glue on the knots which attach the keel to the vertical
spar. In the photo, you can see the keel through the main sail plastic.
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Finally, make up a flying line (Appendix 3) and
attach it to the bridle with a Lark's Head knot as
shown in the photo.
With this kite, I'm confident that if you build it and
attach the keel with reasonable accuracy
according to the plan, it should need no further
adjustment. Just like the bought ones!
You might need to experiment with using a bit
more tail if the kite loops around too much.
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The line draped across the grass at one point, with the little 1 Skewer Delta kite in a wing
waggling slow free-fall towards the grass.
At its highest points, the kite often got quite close to the position of the sun. In fact, an
interesting thing happened when the kite got between the sun and a small flock of galahs
sitting in a tree... They took off suddenly, perhaps believing they were being eyed off by a
hawk!
Might as well mention now a coincidence that happens very occasionally. The shadow of
the kite moved around just meters from Aren and I for a few moments, despite the long
distance between the kite and us. Couldn't help calling the attention of my 4 year old to
this of course. He seemed surprised. Never-the-less, he was now bugging me to take him
across to the nearby play equipment...
Summing up. There was a lot of climbing and descending, with the size of the 1 Skewer
Delta kite limiting how high it could go on its 20 pound line in such a light breeze. Still, it
was a lot better experience than yesterday, when we went out in extremely gusty fresh
wind conditions! Although the flying wasn't pretty, at least I managed to fine-tune the length
of that little tail-let on one tip, to correct a turning tendency. You can see it in the photo up
there. My favorite trimming trick for little kites on simple bridles!
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
Firstly, take a light plastic bag that will fit the entire
Template shape within one side, and lay it flat on
the floor.
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Lay down a line of wood glue on each side of the join, and leave to dry. You can be
generous with the glue here, since the joint also serves to bring the balance point
back towards the tail for more stability.
Get down low and look along the skewers to ensure they make a straight line,
before the glue sets! The photo shows the join after the glue has set.
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Cut off a piece of flying line of length 0.75SL (22cm, 8"). Tape one end to a corner of
the upper sail, as in the photo. See how the tape points to the tip of the lower
horizontal spar. Excess tape can be trimmed with scissors or folded back on itself.
Pass the other end of the line around the tip of the lower horizontal spar. Pull most
of the slack out and tie off with a couple of Half Hitch knots (Appendix 4) Using the
Half Hitch makes them easy to un-pick and re-tie later, if any adjustment is needed
to make the kite fly straight.
Snip off some of the excess line if you want to, but leave enough for adjustment
purposes.
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Where 2 pieces of line come together, tie a MultiStrand Simple knot close to the plastic. These 2
knots will sit against the vertical spar.
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With the trim slightly off, and lifting 60 meters of 20-pound Dacron line, the tiny Roller
never got much above a 30 degree flying angle. Still, it was fun watching it doing its best!
Being forced down occasionally, but gamely climbing right back up again each time.
Thinking about going home, I wound in line so that 30 meters (100 feet) remained in the
air. The Roller responded by immediately popping up to a flying angle of 45 degrees! So,
this seems like a good line length on which to fly this kite, if you're thinking of making one.
Just a few minutes later, it was time to bring the kite down and leave for home.
The 1 Skewer Roller is a fine little moderate wind kite. It will also handle fresh breezes
well, if you add enough tail!
Today, the wind meter recorded an average strength of 7 kph and a maximum gust of 24
kph, close to the ground. Wind speeds would have been considerably stronger up where
the kite was though.
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The template shown above represents one side
of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Do those last 2 steps again, over the widest part of the lower sail, to create the
lower horizontal spar.
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Be careful that the horizontal spars don't slip up or down the vertical spar while the glue is
still wet.
Snip off some of the excess line if you want to, but leave enough for adjustment
purposes.
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Now flip the plastic over and tape down another 2 lengths of flying line, directly over
the first 2.
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Despite the perfect conditions, the 1 Skewer Dopero did misbehave just a little, when
affected by turbulence or extra-strong gusts. A large loop almost to ground level, before
recovering and soaring back up again. Another time, it managed to flip itself inverted and
sat there at about 50 feet off the ground for a few seconds up side down. With the bridle
lines passing over the leading edge! The weirdness of tiny kites...
Time was getting on, so I let my wife May take the line for a while, before starting back to
the car park. Winding on flying line as we went. Finally the little Dopero hovered and
dipped just a meter or 2 off the grass, teasing Aren, who tried to catch it like a cat after a
bird.
All in all, an enjoyable flight with the most complex design of the 1-Skewer series!
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Select 4 bamboo BBQ skewers that seem fairly straight. Check this by rolling them
across a table top, one by one. Or just look down their length.
In addition, try to ensure that 2 of those skewers have very similar flexibility. Either
bend them by hand to try and judge this, or get a little more ingenious by
suspending the ends and putting a weight in the middle... Getting this right will help
the finished kite to fly straight without needing too much tail. Put a mark on these 2
skewers so you know which ones they are. They are the top 2 spars in the photo.
Snip the point off one skewer, then measure it to establish '1 skewer length' (1.0SL)
for your kite. For me, this was 29 c.m.
Snip the points off the other 3 skewers, to exactly the same length as the first one.
These 4 skewers will now be referred to as the 'spars'
Take another 2 skewers, and snip one of them to exactly 0.7SL (20.3cm, 8") in
length. Make the other one just 0.5cm (1/4") longer. These are the 'cross pieces'.
The longer one will be trimmed to fit, later.
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The template up there represents one cell of the kite, laid out flat. Transfer the
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Firstly, take a light, single-ply plastic bag and lay it flat on the table. I use cheap
orange garden-bags. The more expensive bags are usually 2 or 3-ply plastic, which
is heavier and less see-through.
Near one edge of the bag, measure and mark a rectangular outline according to the
Template. Use a black marking pen and ruler.
Now measure and mark the fold lines. See the photo.
Flip the bag over, and trace over all the black lines. Use the ruler, of course!
Cut around the 2 rectangular outlines with scissors. I don't recommend trying to do
both rectangles at once, since the plastic tends to slip!
Arrange the 4 bamboo spars over the plastic as in the photo, covering up the drawn
fold-lines. Make sure the marked side-spars are positioned as shown in the photo!
Tack down all 8 corners of the sails to the table top with small square pieces of
sticky tape. This stops unintended shifting of the plastic while you are trying to...
Lay down 4 long lengths of clear sticky tape, securing the spars to the plastic. The
tape is just visible in the photo - look for where the plastic is smoother and slightly
darker, near the edges. Each tape goes all the way from left to right, over the 4
spars.
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Also put some glue where the cross-pieces touch each other, to keep everything
stiffer.
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By now the sun was shining brightly, the sky mainly blue with most of the morning cloud
cover gone.
A small bird circled briefly below the kite to take a look, before flying off.
Speaking of birds, a lone magpie shot past below me, keeping close to the grass, some
time earlier. A couple of white cockatoos flew silently by, several hundred feet up. They
only seem to make a huge noise when moving in large groups!
Feeling some extra tension in the line, I was able to let it out to 60 meters (200 feet). The 1
Skewer Box kite seemed so small at this distance, and started flying higher than it has
ever gone before. It shuddered in thermal turbulence for just a moment, before soaring up
in the rising air that was nearby. The boundary between rising and sinking air often
contains a small region of rough air, and you can actually spot it happening sometimes,
with a kite in the air.
The box kite was covering a lot of ground, sometimes being forced into slow loops to the
right under strong wind pressure, and just scooting left or right at other times. When sitting
on top of a plume of rising air, the line drooped vertically down underneath the kite, before
arcing back to where I was standing on a grassy mound.
Several times the 1 Skewer Box kite ended up very low over the grass, but willingly
climbed back up. Sometimes with a little help from me, tugging it back up into faster air when it happened to be pointing in the right direction!
The wind strength was definitely increasing. Looking around, dozens of tree tops were all
showing some small branch movement. The closest ones were generating a fair amount of
leaf noise in each long fresh gust.
And then a magic moment. A large thermal came through, and I let the line out to about 80
meters as the little orange kite climbed rapidly. Just a speck way up there, the 1 Skewer
Box kite floated on its face, the 20 pound Dacron line describing an enormous S bend as
various wind gusts tugged at it from different directions. At an angle of about 50 degrees,
the kite was about 170 feet above the ground.
Soon after this, the kite sank nearly all the way to the grass, clearing the trees downwind
by only a few meters. Some time later, after bringing in some line, the kite come to ground
in the middle of the reserve.
I moved off to the side to collect the wind meter and equipment bag. Also, to pick up the
winder and start putting line back on. Imagine my surprise when, halfway through winding,
I looked up to see the 1 Skewer Box kite flying once again! The line had caught on a
thistle, after a gust must have rolled the kite around and bounced it back into the air.
To get a better idea of the real wind strength, I put the wind meter on the grassy mound for
a few minutes. It came up with an average of 7.1kph, gusting to over 15kph. I'll bet it was
closer to 25kph at times, up where the kite was!
Anyway, it was a good outing. The best actually, with this particular 1-Skewer kite!
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Take a 30 cm (12") bamboo BBQ skewer, and attach a length of clear sticky tape to one
end as in the photo above. The tape should be about as long as an average adult middle
finger. The skewer is sitting on half the length of the tape.
Carefully roll the skewer in your fingers, attaching the width of the tape to it as you go.
Then, keep rolling the skewer while drawing your fingers away from the tip, so the free
length of tape spins itself into a tight cord. It should be pretty clear in the photo above.
Attach tape to the other end of the skewer in the same
way. Then do both ends of another 5 skewers!
Arrange all 6 skewers as in the photo over there, and
note how the little cords of rolled-up tape overlap each
other at the 3 corners of the large triangle of skewers.
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Here's a close-up of one of those corners. The 3
little cords have been twisted together, then
another short length of tape has been wrapped
around the 3 cords several times. The 3 skewers
are now joined securely at the tips.
Do the other 2 corners too!
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Next, cut all around the tabbed diamond shape
with scissors.
The photo also shows a couple of the tabs folded
over and stuck down with sticky tape. The
tetrahedron has been flipped back to its original
position.
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Here's a close-up of one join between
tetrahedrons. See how the sticky tape sticks point
in opposite directions. Lay them side by side and
wrap more sticky tape around the whole lot, using
several wraps to make it strong.
Also tie a small Loop knot into the bridle, so the line angles are approximately as shown.
The exact position is not as critical as for other types of kites. It should fly fine!
A Lark's Head knot can now be used to attach a flying line just behind the Loop knot of the
bridle.
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The wind seemed to freshen a little more, and the kite started to loop to the right from time
to time. It seems that the wind range of this 4-cell Tetra is somewhat limited. However,
there are 2 solutions, both involving tails.
1. A little tail-let added to the left corner of the lower cell would fix the looping. Of
course, some trial and error would be necessary, to get the length just right.
2. A simple tail, several skewer-lengths long, could be added to the lower tip of the
lower cell. This would certainly extend the wind range, at the expense of holding the
kite down to slightly lower line angles.
One day, we'll get out there again, and fiddle around with some tails! Check out the video
down there to see how the Skewer Tetrahedral kite behaves in ideal (moderate) wind
strengths. Unfortunately, I have forgotten the exact wind meter readings. By the time we
left, the breeze would have been 'moderate, gusting to fresh'.
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For this sled, you need to glue skewers together to form the 2 vertical spars.
Snip the points off 4 skewers, then check to see that they are all exactly the same
length.
From another skewer, snip off 2 lengths of bamboo, each 0.3SL (8.7cm, 3 1/2") long
- and mark the center-points with the marking pen if you want to be extra-precise!
Arrange all the bamboo as in the photo, with some paper underneath to catch
excess glue - the bottom half of the photo is a close-up of the top spar.
Get down to table top height and look along the spars, and make sure they are as
straight as possible.
Lay down a thick line of glue all the way down each join, as in the photo - actually,
the glue is half-dry in the photo.
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Firstly, take the large bag that you will be using for the sail, and lay it flat on the
table.
Mark the corners of the template shape with dots, as shown in the previous photo notice that marks are also made on the side edge of the bag, which is the centerline of the kite sail.
Note: Did you find your ruler was not long enough to rule all the lines? Just mark a dot
about mid-way between the 2 corner dots, using whatever straight edge you can find maybe a piece of wood. Then, connect the 3 dots with your ruler. Problem solved, and no
need to rush out and buy a 1 meter (1 yard) ruler!
Flip the plastic bag over, and trace over all the black lines using your marker pen
and ruler.
Cut out a rectangular section of the bag containing the kite sail, open it out and lay it
flat on the table - you can now see the complete sail outline, as in the photo.
Lay clear sticking tape along all the lines with each line showing through the center
of the tape - that's 7 pieces of tape in all, if you do the trailing edge with a single
piece of tape.
With scissors, cut along the black lines - this will leave half the width of the sticking
tape inside the sail outline.
Note: Don't worry about overlapping lengths of tape at the corners, it will all look tidier after
the cutting is done.
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Are the spars dry yet? If so, continue...
Place the left spar over the plastic, with the edge tape facing up.
Cap the ends of the spar with electrical tape, as in the photo, by sticking it down
over the bamboo and plastic then folding it under the plastic to stick on the other
side - a bit tricky, take your time!
Next, lay a short length of electrical tape across the bamboo and onto the plastic, at
the center - as in the photo.
If you want to, trim the bits of tape that stick out at the top and bottom of the spar,
with scissors.
Now, tape the right hand spar in exactly the same way.
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Here's how to reinforce the towing points...
Firstly, stick down a length of tape that goes left to right and sticks out some
distance from the towing point, as in the photo.
Turn the sail over and stick down another piece of tape exactly the same way, so
both pieces stick to the plastic at one end and to each other at the other end.
Wrap another piece of tape around the towing point, in a vertical direction, as in the
photo.
Now go over to the left side of the sail and do exactly the same thing with another 3 pieces
of tape. The pieces of tape that stick out are where you will attach the bridle line. This
method is surprisingly strong and can take a lot of punishment in rough air.
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Cut off some flying line to a length of 12SL (348cm, 138"). Tie one end to one towing point
tape, and the other end to the other towing point tape. The trick is to use Double Wrap Slip
knots, working them down really tight onto the tape.
With the knots nice and tight, the line should crush the tape and make a secure
connection. If you do it right, it will never slip off when the kite is flying.
Finally, take a length of flying line about 0.5SL (15cm, 6") long, and tie one end to the
bridle line with a Prusik knot. Tie a small simple loop knot into the other end. The black
camera case in the photo is just to make the loop and Prusik knot easier to see.
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Have you read Appendix 2 on making kite tails? Assuming you have...
Make up a tail from a black garbage bag, making sure it is at least 6SL (174cm, 69")
long.
Attach the tail by poking one end between the bottom of a spar and the sail.
Pull the rest of the tail through the loop, but don't over-tighten.
In the same way, make up and attach another tail to the other spar.
See the photo, where I have left both tails a bit loose to make it clear.
At this point, you've pretty much finished making the 2-Skewer Sled!
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Finally, make up a flying line (Appendix 3) and attach it to the bridle with a Lark's Head
knot. See the photo above.
As a final check, suspend the kite from the flying line. Shift the Prusik knot along the bridle
line until it's exactly in the middle. The sides of the sail should match, and the spars should
be sitting right next to each other.
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Here's a picture of me and a small kiting assistant launching the MBK 2-Skewer Sled Kite,
down at a local reserve.
Have fun flying, and I hope you've enjoyed learning how to build a Sled kite!
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The template shown on the previous page represents one side of the kite sail. You will now
transfer these measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
Take a light plastic bag that will fit the entire Template shape within one side, and
lay it flat on the floor.
Mark dots on the plastic, corresponding to the corners of the Template. There is no
need to use a T-square, since any small error will be duplicated on the other side of
the sail. And it will make hardly any difference to how the kite flies.
Using the marking pen, rule lines between the dots to create the Template shape.
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Flip the plastic bag over, and trace over all the black lines
using your marker pen and ruler.
Cut out a rectangular section of the bag containing the kite
sail, open it out and lay it flat on the floor - you can now see
the complete sail outline, as in the photo.
Run clear sticky tape along every straight line, leaving most of
the tape on the inside of the sail edges.
Cut along the black lines with scissors, to create the sail. See
the close-up photo on the right.
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For this Diamond, you need four 30cm (12") bamboo BBQ skewers. Also, you need to cut
off 4 short 0.15SL (4.4cm, 1 3/4") lengths of skewer. The photos show how these are all
glued together.
One pair of skewers has the pointed ends raised up off the table, forming the horizontal
spar.
The other pair are just lined up straight, flat against the table top, with a point at each end.
This is the vertical spar. To make sure there is no kink at the join, get your head down low
and look along the skewers. Shift one a little, if necessary, before the glue dries!
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TIP: Secure the slip knots onto the bamboo of the vertical spar with a tiny blob of wood
glue, so they can't loosen.
ADJUSTMENT:
Once your kite + bridle looks like the photo on the previous page...
Hold the short bridle line up so all the bridle lines are straight, with the kite laying flat on
the table or floor.
Referring to the diagram below, shift the Prusik knot to the shown position. It's not
necessarily the perfect position for your individual kite, but it should at least fly on the first
attempt! Later, you can experiment with shifting the position away from the nose a little at a
time to improve how high your kite flies.
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A bird flying through got quite a surprise. I don't think it actually hit the flying line, but it took
some extreme evasive action for just a split second when it suddenly caught sight of it very
close!
Most of this time the kite was anchored to a handy pole. However, I had to intervene when
the kite started slowly floating down on its face for half a minute or so. Eventually, it was in
danger of descending right onto a busy road which ran past the oval. After just a few quick
hand-over-hand pulls on the line, the little Diamond obediently soared up a few meters and
then caught just enough breeze to continue the climb on its own. Seconds later, it was up
around 400 feet altitude again.
Most of the time, the 2 Skewer Diamond kite was flying at an angle of between 45 and 50
degrees, with considerable sag in the 20 pound Dacron line. However, for a few delicious
moments, a large thermal pushed the kite right up to 80 degrees where it spun around in a
few tight circles before starting to descend once again. I never saw the original 2-Skewer
Diamond do that!
While the kite was in the air, at least 3 passenger jets flew over.
One jet was overflying the city at high altitude, while 2 others, just minutes apart, were
climbing out from Adelaide airport. Which, by the way, is a safe distance to the north of our
local area. No chance of snagging any kite strings - although the 2 Skewer Diamond kite
was a bit wayward today in nearly reaching 450 feet above ground... 400 is the legal limit.
The 2-Skewer Diamond kite returned a very pleasing flight! If you haven't made any 2Skewer designs yet, the Diamond would be a great place to start.
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For this barn door, you need to glue skewers together to form the 3 spars.
Snip the points off 6 skewers, then check to see that they are all exactly the same
length.
From another skewer, snip off 2 lengths of bamboo, each 0.2SL (5.8cm, 2 1/4")
long. Mark the center-points with the marking pen if you want to be extra-precise!
From the same skewer, snip off another 2 lengths of bamboo, each 0.3SL (8.7cm, 3
1/2") long.
Arrange all the bamboo as in the photo, with some paper underneath to catch
excess glue.
Prop up each end of the double-reinforced spar to about 0.1SL (2.9cm, 1 1/8")
above the table, to give it 'dihedral'.
Get down to table top height and look along the spars, and make sure they are as
straight as possible.
Lay down a thick line of glue all the way down each join, as in the photo.
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Firstly, take the large bag that you will be using for the sail, and lay it flat on the
table.
Measure and mark the corners of the template shape with dots, as shown in the
photo. Notice that marks are also made on the side edge of the bag, which is the
center-line of the kite sail.
Note: When marking the corners, I have found that just judging the 90 degrees from the
center-line by eye is sufficiently accurate. Any small error will be exactly the same on both
sides, and the spars will still fit the sail reasonably well. Of course, if you have a proper Tsquare, use it!
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Flip the plastic bag over, and trace over all the black lines using your marker pen
and ruler.
Cut out a rectangular section of the bag containing the kite sail, open it out and lay it
flat on the table. You can now see the complete sail outline, as in the photo.
Lay clear sticking tape along all the lines with each line showing through the center
of the tape. That's 6 pieces of tape in all.
With scissors, cut along the black lines. This will leave half the width of the sticking
tape inside the sail outline.
Note: Don't worry about overlapping lengths of tape at the corners, it will all look tidier after
the cutting is done.
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Place one straight diagonal spar over the plastic, with the edge tape facing up.
Cap the ends of the spar with electrical tape, as in the photo, by sticking it down
over the bamboo and plastic then folding it under the plastic to stick on the other
side - a bit tricky, take your time!
Do the same for the other diagonal spar, crossing it over the first one.
Next, lay down the horizontal spar and cap each end with electrical tape - pull the
slack out of the plastic, but don't pull it really tight.
Don't secure the spars to each other at this point - the bridle knots will do that later!
If you want to, trim the bits of tape that stick out at the ends of the spars, with
scissors.
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Cut off some flying line to a length of 4.0SL (116cm, 46"), and tie a very small Loop
knot (Appendix 4) into each end.
Poke 4 holes in the plastic sail, where the horizontal spar crosses the diagonal
spars. I've marked the holes with black dots in the photo.
Tie each end of the line to the bamboo, through the holes. Use a Double Wrap Slip
knot, and pull tight, securing the crossed spars together.
Tie a Loop knot into the bridle line, exactly in the middle. To check before you
tighten the knot, lift the kite up off the table by the bridle, making sure both sides
come up at the same time.
Now cut off some flying line to a length of 6.0SL (174cm, 69"), and tie a very small
Loop knot into one end.
Poke 2 holes in the plastic sail where the diagonal spars cross - one hole on either
side, as in the photo.
Use a Double Wrap Slip knot as before, to secure the diagonal spars together,
pulling tight.
Tie the other end to the loop in the upper bridle line, using 2 or 3 Half Hitches.
IMPORTANT: Put a drop of glue over each knot that is holding spars together - the
very first test flight proved the need for this, since the spars tend to flex and loosen
the knots.
Tip: Use the blunt end of a skewer to help get those little loops through the holes!
Now take a length of flying line about 0.5SL (15cm, 6") long, and tie one end to the bridle
line with a Prusik knot. Tie a small Loop knot into the other end.
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Have you read Appendix 2 on making kite tails? Assuming you have...
Make up a tail from a black garbage bag, making sure it is at least 12SL (350cm,
140") long.
Attach each end of the tail to the bottom of a diagonal spar, by poking the end
between the bamboo and the sail plastic, then tie off.
It looks nice if you don't pull too much plastic through, and tie the knots as mirror
images of each other - see the photo!
At this point, you've pretty much finished making the 2-Skewer Barn Door!
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Have fun flying, and I hope you've enjoyed learning how to build a Barn Door kite.
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The flying line angle varied from roughly 30 to 50 degrees, depending on wind speed. The
Barn Door was once boosted right up to 70 degrees in a weak patch of rising air, before
floating back down on its face. It's not my best thermal-catching kite, but it was still a
welcome departure from its usual Diamond-style performance!
By this time we were getting closer to the 2 teenagers. They soon left, as they do when
their space is invaded by someone more than 20 years older :-)
Finally, a long lull took the kite right down to 20 degrees or so, with line about to droop
onto the grass. This was followed by a long smooth climb, slowly accelerating as the 2
Skewer Barn Door kite passed through 200 feet or so.
Aren and I ended up on the far side of the reserve, sitting on a grassy embankment. All
150 meters of line was out, bar 4 winds so we didn't lose the kite. The kite settled out at
close to 400 feet at around 50 degrees of line angle.
During another lull, I had to wind on quite a few meters of line, but was able to slowly climb
the kite up again. I took the chance to practice climbing the kite at a constant line angle of
somewhere around 40 degrees. With all the line out once again, the kite slowly made its
way up even higher, as line angle increased.
Eventually it was time to go. In these light conditions, it was an easy matter to simply wind
line on to bring the kite down. It was hard to keep the kite in the air once it got below 100
feet. By walking slowly upwind, we kept the kite off the grass.
By this stage, some blue patches had appeared in the East although unusual smooth
cloud formations remained in other parts of the sky. All in all, a nice relaxing outing with the
2 Skewer Barn Door kite, even with the 3 year old in tow!
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For this Rokkaku, you need to glue skewers together to form the 3 spars. Since this kite
has plenty of sail area for its width, there is no need to worry about selecting the lightest
skewers! In fact, stiffer and heavier skewers would be good for the vertical spar. As for any
kite, it's best to try and match the left and right horizontal spars as well. Having said all
that, just using any old skewers at random should not present any real problems. Careful
bridle adjustment and enough tail will cure just about anything...
Snip one skewer to exactly 0.5SL (14.5cm, 5 3/4") in length - keep the other end
(with point) for poking holes in plastic later!
Snip the points off 6 more skewers, then check to see that they are all exactly the
same length.
From another skewer, snip off 4 lengths of bamboo, each 0.15SL (4.4cm, 1 3/4")
long - and mark the center-points with the marking pen if you want to be extraprecise!
Arrange all the bamboo as in the photo, with some paper underneath to catch
excess glue.
Prop up each end of the 2-skewer spars to about a 0.1SL (3cm, 1") length above
the table, to give them 'dihedral'.
Get down to table top height and look along the spars, and make sure they are as
straight as possible.
Lay down a thick line of glue all the way down each join, as in the photo.
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Firstly, take the large bag that you will be using for the sail, and lay it flat on the
table.
Make sure the spars are dry, then lay them down on the plastic to show where the
sail corners are - see the photo on the left.
Mark the corners of the template shape with dots, at each spar end - notice that
marks are also made on the side edge of the bag, which is the center-line of the kite
sail.
Remove the spars then use the marking pen to rule lines between the dots - I have
made the dots big so they show up, see the photo on the right.
Note: Arranging the spars on the plastic by eye is quite accurate enough, as long as you
take some care. Since both sides of the sail will be identical, any small error in judging the
90 degree angle has almost no effect. The exact place where the lower horizontal spar
crosses the vertical spar doesn't matter either. If it looks similar to the photo, it'll fly just
fine!
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Flip the plastic bag over, and trace over all the black lines using your marker pen
and ruler.
Cut out a rectangular section of the bag containing the kite sail, open it out and lay it
flat on the table - you can now see the complete six-sided sail outline, as in the
photo.
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Lay clear sticking tape along all the lines with each line showing through the center
of the tape - that's 6 pieces of tape in all.
With scissors, cut along the black lines - this will leave half the width of the sticking
tape inside the sail outline.
Note 1: I pull off the length of tape required, plus a bit extra on each end, then lay it down
in one motion, pressing to the plastic at both ends at once - then I smooth along the tape
with a finger, making sure it is stuck down firmly along its entire length.
Note 2: Don't worry about overlapping lengths of tape at the corners, it will all look tidier
after the cutting is done.
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Place the long vertical spar over the plastic, with the edge tape facing up.
Cap the ends of the spar with electrical tape, as in the photo, by sticking it down
over the bamboo and plastic then folding it under the plastic to stick on the other
side - a bit tricky, take your time!
Next, lay down the 2 horizontal spars and cap each end with electrical tape - pull
the slack out of the plastic, but don't pull it really tight.
Secure the upper horizontal spar to the vertical spar by running lines of glue above
and below where the spars cross, as in the photo.
Secure the lower horizontal spar to the vertical spar with a drop of glue above and
below where the spars cross, as in the photo - the white piece of tape is just
temporary, holding the spar in place
Note: The camera has made the kite look out of shape - it's actually quite square, as you
can see in the flight photo at the bottom of this page!
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The bigger a Rok kite, the fancier the bridle needs to be. For this one, a 3-leg bridle is
about right. The bottom leg is positioned so that the vertical spar doesn't flex too much in
strong wind. Is all the glue dry? If so...
Cut off some flying line to a 2.0SL (58cm, 23") length, and tie a very small Loop knot
(Appendix 4) into each end.
Poke holes in the plastic, on either side of the upper horizontal spar. So 4 holes
altogether, 0.4SL from the vertical spar, as indicated by the black dots in the photo.
Tie each end of the line to the bamboo, through the holes. Use a Double Wrap Slip
knot, and pull tight.
Cut off some flying line to a 3.0SL (87cm, 35") length, and tie a very small Loop
Knot into one end.
Poke holes in the plastic, on either side of the vertical spar. So 2 holes altogether,
as indicated by the black dots in the photo.
Tie the looped end of the line to the bamboo, through the holes. Use a Double Wrap
Slip knot, and pull tight.
Tie the other end of the line to the mid-point of the upper bridle line you did first. Use
a shiftable knot such as the Prusik.
Now take a length of flying line about 0.5SL (15cm, 6") long, and tie one end to the longer
bridle line with a Prusik knot. Tie a small Loop knot into the other end.
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Cut off a short piece of flying line about 1 skewer length long, and another longer
one about 3 skewer lengths long.
Tie the lines to the spar and pass the longer line through the 2 loops - see the photo
below.
Pull some extra bow into the spar before securing the truckie's knot with a couple of
Half Hitches.
Put a drop of glue on both the knots that have been tied against the bamboo - they
must never come loose!
At this point, you've pretty much finished making the 2-Skewer Rokkaku!
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The 2 Skewer Rokkaku kite behaved well, although its sail sides curved in for several
seconds at a time as thermal gusts put extra pressure on. The Rok climbed fairly high, but
never went overhead due to the average wind strength being just a few knots too high.
Actually, this was just as well, or the kite would have been around 100 feet over the legal
limit.
We only had a few minutes to enjoy the high flying before it was time to bring the kite
down. A golfer had arrived, and was preparing to hit off a few balls. He was keeping an eye
on us and the kite.
Due to plenty of tension in the line, it took some time. I alternated between winding on
under tension, and pulling long lengths of line onto the grass so it could be wound on
under no tension. The winder coped since it's pretty sturdy.
It was quite a short outing but never-the-less enjoyable. Good to see the 2 Skewer
Rokkaku kite strut its stuff once more, carving arcs in the sky at 400 feet!
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For this Sode, you need to glue skewers together to form the 3 spars. First, let's look at the
2 horizontal spars.
Snip the points off 8 bamboo skewers, then check to see that they are all exactly
the same length. Trim some if necessary.
From another skewer, snip off 4 lengths of bamboo, each 0.15SL (4.4cm, 1 3/4")
long. Mark the center-points with the marking pen if you want to be extra-precise!
Arrange 4 of the skewers as in the photo, with some paper underneath to catch
excess glue.
For 1 spar, prop up each end to about 0.1SL (3cm, 1") above the table, to give it
'dihedral'.
For the other spar, prop up each end to about 0.15SL (4.4cm, 1 3/4") above the
table, for even more dihedral.
Get down to table top height and look along the spars, and make sure they are as
straight as possible.
Lay down a thick line of glue all the way down each join, as in the photo.
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Next comes the long vertical spar.
From a spare un-cut skewer, snip off 4 lengths of bamboo, each 0.15SL (4.4cm, 1 3/4")
long - and mark the center-points with the marking pen if you want to be extra-precise!
Arrange 3 skewers as in the photo, with some paper underneath to catch excess
glue - taping the paper down as before.
Get down to table top height and look along the spars, and make sure they are as
straight as possible.
Lay down a thick line of glue all the way down each join, as in the photo.
The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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The following sequence which uses a skewer as a measuring stick might seem a bit odd.
However, it's quicker than measuring everything with a ruler, and possibly more fool-proof
as well! The sequence is long, but hang in there, it works. Of course, if you prefer, just use
a ruler to measure everything up according to the template. You can place the dots that
way, ignoring the list below. It's up to you.
Firstly, take the large bag that you will be using for the sail, and lay it flat on the
table
There should be only one cut skewer left - measure and mark its center point, and
also mark a 1/4 length point - this is your handy measuring stick for the next few
steps! (shown in the photo)
Make sure the glue on the long vertical spar is dry, then lay it down beside the edge
of the garden bag - mark the plastic at both ends of the spar, thus pin-pointing the
nose and tail ends of the kite
Make another mark on the bag's edge, 1/4 of a skewer length below the top mark use your measuring stick!
Again, mark the bag's edge, a full skewer length below the previous mark - just use
the measuring stick
The last mark to make on the bag's edge is 1/4 of a skewer length above the bottom
mark - using your measuring stick again - at this stage you should have 5 marks on
the edge of the plastic bag
Place one end of your measuring stick at the 2nd from top mark, make sure the
skewer is 90 degrees to the bag edge - by eye - then mark the plastic at the 1/4 and
full skewer-length distances from the edge
Now move down to the 3rd from top mark on the bag's edge, and do the same
again - except make it a 1/2 skewer length mark instead of a 1/4
Lay the center of your measuring stick over the 2nd from bottom dot, make sure it is
90 degrees to the bag edge, and mark the plastic at the skewer end - this skewer
will become the bottom horizontal spar, surprise surprise!
Finally, rule lines between the marks - to make things clear, I have done all the
marks on the plastic as large dots, which you can see in the photo
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Flip the plastic bag over, and trace over all the black lines using your marker pen
and ruler
Cut out a rectangular section of the bag containing the kite sail, open it out and lay it
flat on the table - you can now see the complete sail outline, as in the photo
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Lay clear sticking tape along all the lines with each line showing through the center
of the tape - that's 12 pieces of tape in all
With scissors, cut along the black lines - this will leave half the width of the sticking
tape inside the sail outline
Note: Make each length of tape about a finger-width or 2 longer than the line it covers. No
need for great precision here.
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The pieces of electrical tape mentioned below should all be about 3 times as long as they
are wide. Bear in mind you can only see about half this length in the photo, since they are
folded around the sail.
The white tape in the photo above is just holding the spars while the glue dries! Also, I later
slipped a roll of tape under the right hand tip of the bottom horizontal spar, to keep it
aligned with the 2 main horizontal spars while the glue dried.
Place the long vertical spar on the plastic, with the edge tape facing up.
Cap the ends of the vertical spar with electrical tape, by sticking it down over the
bamboo and plastic then folding it under the plastic to stick on the other side - a bit
tricky, take your time!
Next, lay down the 2 main horizontal spars and cap each end with electrical tape,
like the black tape in the photo - pull the slack out of the plastic, but don't pull it
really tight.
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Next, lay down the bottom horizontal spar and cap each end with electrical tape, as
you did for the main spars.
Finally, add more tape like the yellow pieces in the photo.
Secure the horizontal spars to the vertical spar, using drops of glue where they
cross.
If you want to, trim any bits of tape that stick out, with scissors.
Update: If this kite is flown in windy weather, it's possible for the spar cap tape on the
upper horizontal spar to pull away. To prevent this, add clear sticky tape over the spar
caps, folding it around in the same direction as the pieces of yellow tape.
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Cut off some flying line to a 5.0SL (145cm, 57 1/2") length, and tie a very small
Loop knot (Appendix 4) into each end.
Using a spare skewer, poke 2 holes in the plastic sail at each bridle attachment
point. One hole on either side of the vertical spar, as indicated by the small black
circles added to the photo.
Tie each end of the line to the bamboo, through the holes. Use a Double Wrap Slip
knot, and pull tight.
Now take a length of flying line about 0.5SL (15cm, 6") long, and tie one end to the bridle
line with a Prusik knot. Tie a small Loop knot into the other end.
Have you read Appendix 2 on making kite tails? Assuming you have...
Make up a tail from a black garbage bag, making sure it is at least 4 times as long
as the Sode kite itself.
Attach the tail by poking one end between the bottom of the vertical spar and the
sail plastic.
Pull the rest of the tail through the loop, but don't over-tighten - see the photo.
At this point, you've pretty much finished making the 2-Skewer Sode!
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The kite's shadow seemed to be buzzing my own shadow, as the sun and kite were in the
same region of sky. The sun blazed down from a completely blue sky. Not a cloud in sight
anywhere. From time to time just a few tell-tale bits of dry grass and flying seeds floated
by, indicating a strong thermal above.
Talking about strong thermals, the kite was now straining away at a very high angle, forced
into loops by vertical gusts of wind! When things had settled down a bit, I went to the
opposite side of reserve and flew for a while on 60 meters of line. Just enjoying the sight of
the 2 Skewer Sode kite high up, looping just occasionally in the fresh gusts coming
through.
With the winder passed around the base of a sapling a few times, it was time to sit down in
the welcome shade for a while. Meanwhile, the Sode danced with the sun.
The bright orange kite seemed happy up there so I went back across the reserve to pick
up the $100 wind meter and its case. Before someone else or a dog decided to do the
same! The Windtronic 2 indicated that the wind over there had averaged 5.4 kph and had
gusted to 13 kph.
Back near the saplings, I planted the tripod in a good spot to catch uninterrupted wind.
Switching the unit off and back on again reset the figures. The meter was soon reading an
average of 9 kph with a max gust of 20! Surely that would have been closer to 30 kph up
at 250 feet where the Sode was cavorting about.
I decided to let line out to 90 meters, which seemed enough considering the rather fresh
gusts and available space downwind. The Sode was still coping, putting on a real display!
Sinking tail-first in lulls and snaking upwards in gusts, looping once in a while. As the gusts
grew fresher, the looping increased, but the 2 Skewer Sode kite would always recover
before it got below 100 feet or so.
Finally, the wind started to get ridiculous, and I noticed the Sode had a problem near the
tail end. One or both of the bottom spar caps had come adrift, but the kite was gamely
hanging on. Quite stable most of the time. However, the trim had changed, and the kite
was now dragging at the wind at a higher angle of attack than usual. The horizontal spars
were bending a lot under the extra strain. Going down in some trees was a possibility now,
so I leapt to my feet and grabbed the line, which was still anchored to the sapling. I guided
the stricken 2 Skewer Sode kite towards the corner of the reserve, where it would have
just enough room to land safely on the grass.
After much taking in of line, the Sode was down to slower air and seemed totally stable
despite the loose plastic near the tail. It was now clear that just one spar cap had come
adrift on the bottom horizontal spar. The short horizontal spar had just rotated on the
vertical spar, allowing the sail plastic on both sides to behave much the same in the air.
Hence there was no real tendency for the kite to loop one way or the other.
Finally the Sode was down, and I walked back to the saplings to collect the winder and
start packing up. Also, I was curious about the maximum gust strength, which turned out to
be 27 kph! That was just centimeters off the grass. Perhaps it was 35 kph or more up
where the kite was. All the same, it was a very enjoyable flight by the bright orange 2
Skewer Sode kite today!
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For this delta, you need to glue skewers together to form the 3 spars plus spreader.
Snip the points off 6 bamboo skewers, then check to see that they are all exactly
the same length. Trim some if necessary.
From another skewer, snip off 6 lengths of bamboo, each 0.1SL (3cm, 1") long.
Arrange all 8 skewers together with the short lengths as in the photo, with some
paper underneath to catch excess glue. Tape that paper down to the table.
Get down to table top height and look along the spars, and make sure they are as
straight as possible.
Lay down a thick line of glue all the way down each join, as in the photo.
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Note: I've made the dots much bigger than they need to be, just so they show up easily in
the photo. By the way, there should be a dot on the center-line, right near the bottom - but
the photo cuts it off.
Firstly, mark the the top dot on the center line, then lay the vertical spar down
beside the plastic and mark the bottom dot.
Measure 1.25SL (36.3cm, 14 3/8") down from the top dot and mark the middle dot.
Next, mark each end of the fold-line plus the mark which is part-way along the
trailing edge, as in the photo - judging the 90 degree angle by eye is quite OK since
any small error will be exactly the same on the other side.
Lay a leading-edge spar over the fold-line, and shift the lower dot a little if
necessary, so the fold line is exactly the same length as the bamboo spar.
Next, mark the 2 corners of the long narrow flap along the leading edge - after
seeing what 0.05SL (1.5cm, 5/8") looks like, just put these dots in by eye.
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Flip the plastic bag over, and trace over all the black lines using your marker pen
and ruler.
Cut out a roughly rectangular section of the bag containing the kite sail, open it out
and lay it flat on the table - you can now see the complete sail outline, as in the
photo.
Lay a piece of clear sticking tape along the short nose section with the line showing
through the center of the tape - but avoid getting any tape on the fold-line.
Lay 4 pieces of clear sticking tape along the trailing edge, with each line showing
through the center of the tape - again, avoiding the fold-line.
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Place the leading edge spars, the ones with just one short reinforcer, over the fold
lines - with the reinforcers facing the center-line.
Lay one of the remaining spars over the 2 leading edge spars, so it crosses them at
the top end of the 2 reinforcers - this will be the spreader.
Making sure the spreader is centered over the sail center-line, make marks where it
crosses the leading edge spars.
Re-check the fit, since you will probably have to snip a few more times to get it just
right - the tips tuck neatly in, with the spreader lying flat against the table.
When it all looks good, drip on some wood glue, as in the photo.
The black pieces of electrical tape mentioned below should all be roughly 3 times longer
than they are wide. You can't see the full length in the photo since they are folded under.
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Place the remaining spar over the center line of the sail, and underneath the
spreader. This is the vertical spar.
Secure the upper end of the vertical spar to the sail with a piece of electrical tape,
wrapping it under to the other side of the sail.
Secure the lower end of the vertical spar to the sail with a similar piece of electrical
tape, wrapping it under to the other side of the sail as before. Gently pull any
slackness out of the sail as you do this.
Next, fold the sail over the leading edge spars and cap the tips with black tape, as in
the photo. The tape should be folded around the tip of the spar so it can't slip
through the plastic.
Add more tape like the yellow pieces in the photo - right over top of the short
reinforcers.
Add 4 long pieces of clear sticky tape to complete the taping down of the sail near
the leading edges of the kite.
Secure the spreader to the vertical spar, using drops of glue where they cross.
If you want to, trim any bits of tape that stick out, with scissors.
Mark out a triangle on some spare plastic, as per the dimensions on the template.
Cut out the triangle and tape down 2 lengths of flying line onto one side, as visible in
the photo. Use sticky tape, not electrical tape.
Now flip the plastic over and tape down another 2 lengths of flying line, directly over
the first 2.
Also lay down tape along the remaining edge of the keel, on both sides of the
plastic.
Reinforce the keel by sticking down and wrapping extra bits of tape where the
pieces of line come out, making sure the plastic remains flat.
Where 2 pieces of line come together, tie a Multi-Strand Simple knot (Appendix 4)
right next to the edge of the plastic.
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Where the 4 pieces of line come together, tie a Multi-Strand Simple knot close to the
plastic, then tie another one further out, as in the photo.
Using a spare skewer, poke 2 holes in the plastic sail 0.55SL (16cm, 6 3/8") from
the nose of the kite. One hole on either side of the vertical spar.
Thread the upper keel lines through and tie off tightly, using a Granny knot.
Poke the bottom 2 holes in the plastic, using the keel itself to find the exact spot.
Thread the lower lines through and again tie off tightly.
With the keel flat against the plastic sail, add sticky tape between the knots,
attaching the keel to the sail plastic. Then flip the keel over and do the other side.
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Have you read Appendix 2 on making kite tails? Assuming you have...
Make up a tail from a black garbage bag, making sure it is at least 4 times as long
as the Delta kite itself.
Attach the tail by poking one end between the bottom of the vertical spar and the
sail plastic.
Pull the rest of the tail through the loop, but don't over-tighten. See the photo.
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Cut off a piece of flying line about 1.0SL (29cm, 11 1/2") long, and another one
about 2.0SL (58cm, 23") long.
Tie the lines to the spar and pass the longer line through the 2 loops. See the photo
below.
Put a bow into the spreader, securing the truckie's knot with a couple of Half
Hitches. Each tip of the spreader should be at least 0.1SL (3cm, 1") above the table
top.
Put a drop of glue on both the knots that have been tied against the bamboo. They
must never come loose!
Hint: To stop the knots slipping along the bamboo, it helps to prop up one end of the
spreader to 0.2SL (6cm, 2 1/4") and weigh down the middle of the spreader with a heavy
object, before gently tightening the line. As in the photo above! Leave until the glue is dry.
At this point, you've pretty much finished making the 2-Skewer Delta!
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Finally, see Appendix 3 to make up a flying line and attach it to the bridle with a Lark's
Head knot. See the photo above, which shows the knot before it has been pulled tight.
That's one of our older winders in the photo.
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For this Roller, you need to glue skewers together to form the 3 spars. Since this kite has
plenty of sail area for its width, there is no need to worry about selecting the lightest
skewers! In fact, stiffer and heavier skewers would be good for the vertical spar. As for any
kite, it's best to try and match the left and right horizontal spars as well. Having said all
that, just using any old skewers at random should not present any real problems. The wind
range of the kite might not be as good as it could be, that's all.
Snip the points off 6 skewers, then check to see that they are all exactly the same
length - either 29cm or 11 1/2 if you want to match up exactly with my numbers.
This is '1 skewer length'.
From another skewer, snip off 5 lengths of bamboo, each 0.1SL (3cm, 1") long.
These are the short reinforcers you can see in the photo.
Arrange the 3 pairs of skewers as in the photo, with some paper underneath to
catch excess glue.
Prop up each end of the second pair of skewers to 0.1SL (3cm, 1") above the table,
to give them 'dihedral'.
Prop up each end of the third pair of skewers to 0.2SL (6cm, 2") above the table, to
give them even more 'dihedral'.
Get down to table top height and look along the spars, and make sure they are as
straight as possible.
Lay down a thick line of glue all the way down each join, as in the photo.
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The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Firstly, take the large bag that you will be using for the sail, and lay it flat on the
table.
Make sure the spars are dry, then lay the vertical spar on the edge of the bag and
mark the position of the nose and tail of the kite.
With a ruler, measure and mark all the other points as in the photo on the left. Do
the sail 'wing-tips' last, laying down the horizontal spars to mark a dot at each spar
end.
Remove the spars then use the marking pen to rule lines between the dots. See the
photo on the right.
Note: Arranging the spars on the plastic by eye is quite accurate enough, as long as you
take some care. Since both sides of the sail will be identical, any small error in judging the
90 degree angle has almost no effect. I have made the dots big just so they show up easily
in the photo.
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Flip the plastic bag over, and trace over all the black lines using your marker pen
and ruler.
Cut out a rectangular section of the bag containing the kite sail, open it out and lay it
flat on the table. You can now see the complete sail outline, as in the photo.
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Lay clear sticking tape along all the lines except the trailing edge of the upper sail
and the leading edge of the lower sail. Each taped line should show through the
center of the tape.
With scissors, cut along the all the black lines. This will leave half the width of the
sticking tape inside the sail outline.
Note 1: I pull off the length of tape required, plus a bit extra on each end, then lay it down
in one motion, pressing to the plastic at both ends at once - then I smooth along the tape
with a finger, making sure it is stuck down firmly along its entire length.
Note 2: Don't worry about overlapping lengths of tape at the corners, it will all look tidier
after the cutting is done.
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Place the long vertical spar over the plastic, with the edge tape facing up.
Cap the ends of the spar with electrical tape, as in the photo, by sticking it down
over the bamboo and plastic then folding it under the plastic to stick on the other
side. It's a bit tricky, take your time!
Next, lay down the 2 horizontal spars and cap each end with electrical tape. Pull the
slack out of the plastic, but don't pull it really tight.
Finally, add extra pieces of tape. See the 5 pieces of yellow tape in the photo.
Secure the upper horizontal spar to the vertical spar by running lines of glue above
and below where the spars cross, as in the photo
Secure the lower horizontal spar to the vertical spar with a drop of glue above and
below where the spars cross, as in the photo.
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In this photo, pieces of clear sticky tape are indicated by yellow rectangles.
Mark out a triangle on some spare sail plastic, as per the dimensions on the
template.
Cut off 4 pieces of flying line, each about 1.25SL (36cm, 14") long.
Cut out the triangle and tape down 2 lengths of flying line onto one side, as visible in
the photo.
Now flip the plastic over and tape down another 2 lengths of flying line, directly over
the first 2.
Also lay down tape along the remaining edge of the keel, on both sides of the
plastic.
Reinforce the keel by sticking down and wrapping extra bits of tape where the
pieces of line come out, making sure the plastic remains flat.
Where 2 pieces of line come together, tie a Multi-Strand Simple knot (Appendix 4)
right next to the plastic.
Where the 4 pieces of line come together, tie a Multi-Strand Simple knot next to the
plastic, then tie another one further out, as in the photo.
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At this point you need to make sure the glue is dry on the frame. If it is...
Lay down the kite with the bamboo on top, and cut 2 short lengths of flying line.
About 0.75SL (22cm, 9") each.
First, tape the lines to the lower sail near the tips - over the bamboo, around the sail
edge and then back towards the bamboo. As shown by the yellow rectangle in the
photo.
Lay the lines across the upper sail and tape them down with just a small piece of
tape near the sail corner.
Carefully pull each line through the tape until there is no slack - as in the photo.
During test flying, it might be necessary to slacken off one of these lines to get the kite to
fly straight. Once you are happy with the trim, you should add more tape to make sure the
line never slips during flight. It should still be possible to pull a little line through by hand
though.
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Poke 2 holes in the lower sail, near the lower horizontal spar, where indicated by the
black dots near the top of the photo.
Take the keel and poke the upper 2 lines through the holes near the horizontal spar.
Then pull tight against the knot, and tie them off around the bamboo, using a
Granny knot.
Now poke the bottom 2 holes in the plastic, using the keel to find the exact spots for
the holes.
Thread the lines, pull tight against the knot, and tie them off tightly around the
bamboo.
These knots must never come loose, so use drops of glue to keep them secure. The glue
should contact the wood as well, so the knot doesn't slip along the dowel.
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Lay the kite down with the keel on top, then cut a length of flying line, about 5.0SL
(145cm, 58") long.
Poke 2 holes in the upper sail where indicated by black dots in the photo.
Attach one end to the vertical spar through the 2 holes in the upper sail. Use a
Double Wrap Slip knot and pull tight. Secure with a tiny dob of glue.
Attach the other end to the keel using a Larks Head knot, and pull tight against the
keel's big knot.
Finally, take a length of flying line about 0.5SL (15cm, 6") long, and tie one end to the
bridle line with a shiftable knot such as the Prusik. Tie a small Loop knot into the other end.
At this point, you've pretty much finished making the 2-Skewer Roller!
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Sure enough, after a while the line really tightened and the little Roller climbed like a
home-sick angel, with a hint of trailing edge flutter. The kite peaked at about 55 degrees,
its highest level of the entire flight. Just over 400 feet up. Perhaps the middle of the
thermal was way off to one side, since the kite dropped back down to 45 degrees after less
than half a minute.
Perhaps it was a skinny thermal, since winter is not far away. As an ex-sailplane pilot, I
remember climbing in some rather narrow and turbulent thermals near Alice Springs in the
N.T.
A while later, having seen the 2 Skewer Roller kite have a good long high flight, I decided
to bring it down. Walking slowly back to where the car was parked, I wound on line
whenever the line tension dropped a little. Down came the kite, right into my hand without
touching the grass.
If you're new to this site, have a guess which country I'm in. Here's a clue - these other
flying objects kept the kite company at various times...
20 galahs
9 magpies
a passenger jet heading East after taking off from Adelaide airport
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For this Dopero, you need to glue skewers together to form the 4 spars. Since this kite has
plenty of sail area for its width, there is no need to worry about selecting the lightest
skewers! In fact, stiffer and heavier skewers would be good for the vertical spars. As for
any kite, it's best to try and match the left and right ends of the horizontal spars as well.
Having said all that, just using any old skewers at random should not present any real
problems. The wind range of the kite might not be as good as it could be, that's all. You
can always add a bit of tail!
Snip the points off 4 skewers, then check to see that they are all exactly the same
length - either 29cm or 11 1/2 if you want to match up exactly with my numbers.
This is '1 skewer length'.
From the scraps of bamboo left over, snip off 6 lengths of bamboo, each 0.06SL
(1.7cm, 3/4") long. These are the short reinforcers for the 3-part horizontal spars.
Similarly, snip off 4 more lengths of bamboo, each 0.1SL long. These are for the 2part vertical spars.
Arrange all the skewers as in the photo, with some paper underneath to later catch
excess glue. Tape the paper to the table top to prevent it shifting.
You should have 2 short reinforcers left over. On one of the 3-part spars, add these
reinforcers so there are 2 beside each join, one on each side. (The photo is wrong,
this mod was done after test flying!)
Prop up each end of the 3-part horizontal spars to 0.15SL (4.4cm, 1 3/4") above the
table, to give them 'dihedral'.
Get down to table top height and look along the spars, and make sure everything
lines up nicely.
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Lay down a thick line of glue all the way down each join, as in the photo.
The template shown above represents one side of the kite sail. You will now transfer these
measurements to the sail plastic as follows...
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Firstly, take the large bag that you will be using for the sail, and lay it flat on the
table.
Make sure all the glue is dry, then lay one of the vertical spars on the edge of the
bag and mark the position of the nose and tail of the kite.
With a ruler, measure and mark all the other points except the 'wing-tips' of the
upper and lower sails.
Mark the 'wing-tips', laying down a vertical spar to find the upper and lower wing tip
positions. You can't use one of the horizontal spars since they're not straight!
Use the marking pen to rule lines between the dots. See the photo.
Note: Arranging the spars on the plastic by eye is quite accurate enough, as long as you
take some care. Since both sides of the sail will be identical, any small error in judging the
90 degree angle has almost no effect. I have made the dots big just so they show up easily
in the photo.
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Flip the plastic bag over, and trace over all the black lines using your marker pen
and ruler.
Cut out a rectangular section of the bag containing the kite sail, open it out and lay it
flat on the table. You can now see the complete sail outline, as in the photo above.
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Lay clear sticking tape along all the lines except the trailing edge of the upper sail
and the leading edge of the lower sail. Each taped line should show through the
center of the tape.
With scissors, cut along the all the black lines. This will leave half the width of the
sticking tape inside the sail outline.
Note 1: I pull off the length of tape required, plus a bit extra on each end, then lay it down
in one motion, pressing to the plastic at both ends at once. Then I smooth along the tape
with a finger, making sure it is stuck down firmly along its entire length.
Note 2: Don't worry about overlapping lengths of tape at the corners, it will all look tidier
after the cutting is done.
Place one long vertical spar over the plastic, with the edge tape facing up.
Cap the ends of the spar with electrical tape, as in the photo, by sticking it down
over the bamboo and plastic then folding it under the plastic to stick on the other
side - a bit tricky, take your time!
Next, lay down the upper horizontal spar and secure it with longer strips of tape as
in the photo - the white tape, which is temporary.
Cap each end of the spar with electrical tape. Pull the slack out of the plastic, but
don't pull it really tight.
Finally, add pieces of clear sticky tape where indicated by the yellow rectangles.
Stick them down to the plastic and bamboo then fold around to the other side
Remove the temporary strips of tape where the spars cross. Also, it might be handy
to support the spar tips, as in the photo.
Secure the upper and lower horizontal spars to the vertical spars with drops of glue
- above and below where the spars cross.
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In this photo, pieces of clear sticky tape are indicated by yellow rectangles.
Mark out a triangle on some spare sail plastic, as per the dimensions on the
template.
Cut off 4 pieces of flying line, each about 1.25SL (36cm, 14") long.
Cut out the triangle and tape down 2 lengths of flying line onto one side, as visible in
the photo.
Now flip the plastic over and tape down another 2 lengths of flying line, directly over
the first 2.
Also lay down tape along the remaining edge of the keel, on both sides of the
plastic.
Reinforce the keel corners by sticking down and wrapping extra bits of tape where
the pieces of line come out, making sure the plastic remains flat.
Where the 4 pieces of line come together, tie a Multi-Strand Simple knot (Appendix
4) right next to the plastic, then tie another one further out, as in the photo.
Also tie knots right next to the plastic at the other 2 corners.
After all the knots are tied, trim off the line ends to an even length.
You have one finished keel. Now do it all again to make the other one!
It's a bit fiddly, but you'll be proud of this kite when you finish it!
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At this point you need to make sure the glue is dry on the frame. If it is...
Lay down the kite with the bamboo on top, and cut off 2 lengths of flying line of
0.6SL (17cm, 7") each.
First, sticky tape the lines to the lower sail near the tips. Lay line over the bamboo,
around the sail edge and then back towards the bamboo on the underside - as
shown by the yellow rectangles in the photo.
Lay the lines across the upper sail and tape them down with just a small square
piece of tape near the sail corner.
Carefully pull each line through the tape until there is no slack - as in the photo.
Add sticky tape to cover the full length of each line on the upper sail.
Note: During test flying in gusty thermal conditions, these lines had a tendency to pull out
from the lower sail! Feel free to tie them to the lower horizontal spar instead, using 2 or 3
Half Hitches.
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Poke 2 holes in the lower sail, near the lower horizontal spar, where indicated by the
black dots near the top of the photo.
Take the keel and poke the upper 2 lines through the holes near the horizontal spar.
Pull tight against the knot, then tie them off around the bamboo, with a Granny knot.
Now poke the bottom 2 holes in the plastic, using the keel to find the exact spots for
the holes.
Thread the lines, pull tight against the knot, and tie them off tightly around the
bamboo.
With the keel flat against the kite, lay clear sticky tape along its base, sticking it to
the lower sail plastic. Flip the keel over, and do its other side too - see the yellow
rectangle in the photo.
These knots must never come loose, so use drops of glue to keep them secure. Use
enough glue so the knots cannot slip along the dowel either.
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In the original photo, parts of the bridle were very hard to see, so I have colored them pure
white. Attach the upper bridle loop...
Lay the kite down with the keel on top, then cut a length of flying line, about 3.0SL
(87cm, 35") long
Poke 4 holes in the upper sail where indicated by black dots in the photo.
Attach each end to a vertical spar through the holes in the upper sail. Use a Double
Wrap Slip knot and pull tight, then secure with a tiny dob of glue.
Cut off a length of flying line, about 2.0SL (58cm, 23") long.
Tie a Loop knot into each end of the line. Don't make them too small, since...
Attach each end to a keel using a Larks Head knot, and pull tight against the keel's
big knot.
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Next, attach the central bridle line...
Cut off some flying line, about 2.0SL (58cm, 23") long.
Attach one end to the upper bridle loop with a shiftable knot, such as the Prusik.
Attach the other end to the lower bridle loop, also with a shiftable knot.
Shift each knot to the middle of its loop. Check by suspending the kite from the
central line, then tighten both the knots. Don't worry, the knots are still shiftable.
Finally, take a length of flying line about 0.5SL (15cm, 6") long, and tie one end to the
central bridle line with another Prusik knot. Tie a small Double Loop knot into the other
end.
At this point, you've pretty much finished making the 2-Skewer Dopero. Whew... But hey,
I'm looking at it now, and it's the best skewer kite of the lot!
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As usual, I had come prepared with a roll of yellow insulation tape in a shorts pocket. Over
the next half an hour or so I ended up replacing or reinforcing most of the spar caps, trying
not to add too much unnecessary weight of course.
My young son Aren got sent over to the wind meter on an errand - to push the reset
button! Otherwise the average might be a bit low due to the earlier calm conditions.
Quickly, the kite line went out to 30, then 60 meters. Even so, it was still necessary to bring
the Dopero down for another bridle adjustment. It was still hanging to the right in the
smoother but rather fresh breeze up there.
Although the 2 Skewer Dopero kite was pulling very firmly, I thought Aren might like to test
his muscles on it, so I gave him the line. Nearly 5 years old, he's getting stronger all the
time. Aren boasted that the kite wasn't pulling very hard at all...
After edging back towards the Eastern boundary of the reserve, there was room to let out
all 120 meters of line. At this length, and due to wind strength being higher than optimum
probably, the 2 Skewer Dopero kite refused to go much higher than a 50 degree line angle.
Never mind, at least it's having a good high fly! Also, I hadn't thought to shift the towing
point forward at all. So the kite was still on its light-wind setting!
After taking down the kite one last time, we had the trim pretty close to perfect. But, time
was running out and it was decided not to loft it up on the maximum line length again.
Plus, both upper sail tethers were starting to pull through due to the unrelenting wind
strength. In fact, in the photo up there you can see that the left panel has gone a bit loose.
That wouldn't have helped the trimming problems!
Most reports on the 2 Skewer Dopero kite have focused on its great light-wind
performance.
However, today was a day for exploring the upper end of this kite's wind range. If you have
made a 2 Skewer Dopero, be persistent with making tiny adjustments to the upper bridle
loop knot. The kite will fly straight as a die when you get it right, even in a fresh breeze.
During packing things up, I noticed the wind speed had averaged 7.4 kph at ground level,
gusting to 23 kph. Perhaps that was closer to 35 kph up high, judging by the bent-over
upper branches of the trees during the strongest gusts! Plus there was heaps of leaf noise.
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Snip the point off a skewer. To 29cm for a 30cm skewer, or 11 1/2" for a 12" skewer.
This will be '1 skewer length' (1.0SL) for your kite.
Snip the points off 7 more skewers, to exactly the same length as the first one.
These 8 skewers will form 4 main 'spars'.
From a spare skewer, snip off 8 lengths, each just 0.1SL (2.9cm, 1 1/8") long. These
are the reinforcers which will connect the spar skewers together.
Lay down the 8 spar skewers, together with the 8 reinforcers, and lay wood glue
down the joins. See the photo.
Get down low and look along each spar in turn. Carefully move them as necessary
to get each spar as straight as possible, before the glue dries.
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Take 2 more skewers, and trim each one to a length of 0.98SL (28.4cm, 11 1/4").
These are 2 of the 'cross-pieces' - 2 more will be needed later, but don't make them
now.
From a spare skewer, snip off 8 lengths, each just 0.05SL (1.5cm, 5/8") long. These
will secure the cross-pieces to the main spars.
Arrange these to make 2 cross-pieces, as in the photo above. Lay down wood glue
over every join.
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Flip the bag over and trace over all the lines.
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Just one more cross-piece to do. Fit the last cross-piece in place in the same way,
at the other end of the kite. Make more marks so you know where this one goes too.
When its length is just right, glue the small pieces on and wait for the glue to dry.
The bottom photo up there is a close-up, with my markings visible on a main spar and one
of the cross-pieces. The other cross-piece had single marks instead of double, to tell them
apart. Hope you get the idea!
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Add a small length of clear sticky tape onto the sail plastic, to prevent the bridle
shifting forward and stretching the plastic. The yellow rectangle on the photo shows
where the tape is.
Attach the other end of the line to the same spar, just behind the join of the 2
skewers, using a couple of Half Hitches. Smear a drop of wood glue all around the
bamboo and into the knot, to hold it secure.
Now take a length of flying line about 1.0SL (29cm, 11 1/2") long, and tie one end to the
bridle line with a Prusik knot, or any other shiftable knot. Tie a small Double Loop knot into
the other end.
All this is visible in the above photo. At this point, you've pretty much finished making the
MBK 2-Skewer Box Kite!
Now, I had some trouble with the cross-pieces falling out while the kite flew in rough air.
Hence you might like to glue the cross-pieces in place! The kite is a convenient size to put
in the car, fully rigged, and won't take up much space in a shed.
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Despite the cool air temperature, patches of
sinking and rising air affected the box kite from
time to time. Sinking air would keep it down
around 30 degrees or so, pulling like a horse.
The lifting air, on one occasion, boosted the 2
Skewer Box Kite right up to around 60 degrees.
Amazing!
The kite seemed comfortable and stable, so I
didn't worry about it floating high up over a
section of the reserve which was covered with
trees. However, after nearly an hour in the air,
something did go wrong!
The kite started to fly low, but still seemed
stable. After winding it in a lot closer, it was clear
that something was wrong with the lower cell.
The vertical cross-piece had slipped out, I have
no idea how. That wasn't supposed to happen,
since I had glued little lengths of bamboo to the
main spars to hold the cross pieces securely in
place.
Perhaps a spar had rotated a little, letting the cross-piece slip past. Maybe the loads on
the kite had pulled the 2 main spars apart far enough to let the cross-piece drop out.
Whatever happened, once one cross-piece goes, it's only a matter of time until they all
drop out! Hence, by the time I got the kite back on the ground, only 1 cross-piece was still
on the kite - and it was about to drop out too. Incredibly, the kite was still flyable, although
with much reduced performance!
Bottom line is this - the 2 Skewer Box Kite is a fantastic traditional-style box kite in terms of
flying performance, but still needs some refinement to keep those pesky cross-pieces in
place! It's looking more and more like I might just tape or glue them in place, like every
other 2-skewer kite in the MBK series. The kite will still be portable enough to provide a lot
of fun.
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Appendix 1 Requirements
The photo shows absolutely all the kite materials needed, plus all the extras such as ruler,
marker and scissors. Including the table top!
NOTE: No electrical tape is used for the 1-Skewer kites
Electrical tape, available from hardware stores. This stuff stretches and therefore is
perfect for capping spar ends while attaching sail plastic at the same time. Although a bit
heavy as far as kite materials go, only small lengths are required so it doesn't add much
weight overall.
Lightweight, clear sticky tape. Scotch tape, Sello-tape, sticking tape, whatever you like to
call it. Just make sure it is about the width of your finger. The tape I use is 12mm (1/2 inch)
in width. This is used to reinforce the edge of the sail, since it doesn't stretch and doesn't
add much weight.
Large, translucent (see-through), colored plastic bags for making sails. Here in Australia,
large orange garden bags are available from supermarkets. These bags are ideal, and
also make the finished kite easy to see in the air! Similar bags should be available
elsewhere too, perhaps in the form of garbage bags. However, you must be able to see a
black marker pen line through the plastic. The MBK construction method relies on this.
I've decided to standardize on dark garbage bags, for tails. Despite their size, they are
rather light and contrast well with the orange garden bag sails! With a bit of imagination,
there are many ways to make kite tails from plastic. Just remember, the lighter the better.
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Bamboo BBQ skewers. The ones pictured are 30 cm (12 inches) in length, costing just a
few dollars for a packet of 100. If yours are a different length, don't worry. These
instructions don't rely on absolute measurements for the spars or sail material. You will still
end up with a flyable kite.
8 kg (20 pound) or more flying line, for bridles and other lines attached to the frame.
These days I'm using 20 pound Dacron for flying line and bridling. You might use Nylon,
Polyester or good old cotton.
Wood glue, such as the Aquadhere in the photo. Good for tacking kite materials such as
bamboo together, although it takes hours to dry. A 100 ml container will last a long time
when just used for making MBK kites. If you prefer, and don't mind paying more, there are
various quick-drying wood or general-purpose glues on the market that can also be used.
The tubes for these are usually much smaller than 100 ml.
Now for a few extras you need to help with making an MBK skewer kite...
A ruler. Any length or type will do, although a meter (yard) rule is more convenient. The
shorter ones often come up short when ruling lines for the 2-skewer kite sails! All MBK
kites use straight lines to make things easier.
A black marking pen. For drawing corner points and sail outlines on light-colored plastic.
The marks need to be easily visible through 2 layers of the plastic.
A pair of scissors. These are mainly for cutting around the outline of the sail. They are
also handy for snipping bamboo skewers to length.
A calculator. Yes, a calculator of some sort, like on your mobile phone or the Windows
one or whatever. But there's no heavy calculating to be done! It's just handy for figuring out
how long 0.3 x (one skewer length) is, for example. In fact, right now, snip off the point
from one of your skewers and measure the skewer. This is 'one skewer length'. Write this
measurement down somewhere.
A smooth flat space to work on. If you are cutting kite materials with a knife rather than
scissors, you will need a smooth flat surface that can be sliced into without upsetting
anyone else! So forget the 2-ton 17th Century polished oak table at your rich uncle's
house...
As long as you have access to a supermarket you should be able to get these kite
materials and other bits and pieces together! Half the items are probably lying around your
house somewhere already.
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Often essential for smaller kites, a tail improves the directional stability. This just means
that the kite now has a strong tendency to point its nose into the wind when aloft.
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Materials
hardwood or heavy chip-board plank around 1.5 cm (3/4 inch) thick and at least 30
cm (12 inches) long and 9 cm (3 3/8 inches) wide
for the Nice Winder, some dark wood stain (optional) and wood lacquer
Tools Required
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Of course, the black tag is the first to go on, when making up the line onto the kite winder.
To make the lengths easier to remember, the colors get darker with every 30 meters.
Another approach, which I have switched to using actually, is to make rectangular flags
from white or yellow tape. Using a permanent marker, write the number of meters or feet
on each flag. Just the number, so the numerals can be large and easy to read.
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Appendix 4 Knots
There are knot tying instructions here for any stage during the construction of an MBK kite.
You can make do with just a few simple ones to begin with, but eventually you will discover
the convenience and satisfaction of using all the 'right' kiting knots!
The bigger the kite, the more important it is to use the right knots. Often this relates to
strength, since safety margins can be slimmer with bigger, stronger-pulling kites.
Besides just showing you how to tie the knots, I have also made a few comments about
each knot's application in kiting.
OK, so these knot tying instructions are hardly necessary since the Simple Knot is so
simple! The main use I find for this little knot is to prevent fraying near a free end of kite
line, in just about any situation. Of course, for nylon or polyester lines there is also the old
kite-maker's trick of melting the frayed end with a flame. The gas stove lighter can come in
handy for this.
I tried using this knot to prevent Slip Knots from pulling through, but it's not really big
enough. A bigger knot like a small Loop Knot is much better, though it doesn't look quite so
tidy.
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The main use for the Multi-Strand Simple Knot in an MBK kite is tying off the lines that
have been taped to a plastic keel. The nice thing about a double-line simple knot is that
you can adjust it to an exact position along the line, before you tighten it fully. It takes
some practice, but it feels good when mastered!
With a little care, this is a great knot to use along the edge of the keel that touches the
vertical spar of a kite. If the knot is adjusted too far one way, you'll crush the keel edge out
of shape. Too far the other way, and there will be an untidy gap between the keel edge and
the vertical spar when you finally attach the keel to the spar with Granny knots.
This knot is also handy at the Towing Point corner of a keel, defining the spot through
which the flying line tension acts.
Also, this knot is a very quick way to just tie two pieces of line together. However, I've
found this simple knot can pull through under a lot of strain! The solution is simple. Just
wind the lines around twice instead of once, making it a Multi Strand Double Knot. See
below. Not the prettiest of joins, but it's easy to remember and it holds fast!
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If you ever need to cut and then re-join a piece of bridle line,
the Multi Strand Double Knot is handy. It's so easy to do, and
that extra turn of line makes it slip-proof. Unlike the simple
knot! If used to fix a flying line, it would reduce the breaking
strain somewhat. That's not so much of a problem in a bridle
since the strain is shared between 2 or more lines.
Apart from modifying a bridle, this also comes in handy when
scrapping old sail and re-using the horizontal spar(s).
I actually did this during the trials and tribulations with the very
first build of the Skewer Roller kite! The old bridle lines were
snipped so they could be fed through holes in the new sail.
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Chances are you have heard of the humble Granny Knot! It's a
general-purpose knot which is useful for tying two ends of a
line together. I suppose grannies use it for tying up a parcel
with string...
For my kite designs, I mainly use this knot for tying a
completed keel to its vertical spar. The 2 lines already have a
Simple Knot tied in next to the keel's edge, so the Granny
pulls the edge tightly against the vertical spar, but does not
distort the keel edge.
In this situation, fixing the knots with glue is a good idea, so
the keel can't shift along the vertical spar. Of course, you need to use enough glue so it
contacts the spar as well as the knot itself. As a side benefit, the Granny can't come loose
either.
In a keel, the flight load is shared among several lines, so a fancier stronger knot is not
required. Well, I've never had one let go yet! When I say 'stronger' I mean 'less likely to
weaken the line'.
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A handy large knot to stop a Lark's Head from slipping off the bridle line. I put a
short line with a Loop Knot at the end on just about all my kites except the Deltas.
A knot with a very small loop is handy to stop Slip Knots from slipping through. The
loop itself doesn't do anything, but the double-size knot in the line sure holds the
Slip Knot securely.
If you're in the habit of using a Truckie's Knot to pull some bow into a spar, then of course,
that uses the Loop Knot as well. No need for anything fancier there.
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The lighter the line, the more useful those tips might prove to be! When you need reading
glasses, 20 pound Dacron line is pretty hard to work with. Personally, I use eye exercises
to improve the situation a lot, but that's another story...
Most MBK kites use a short connecting line between the bridle and the flying line. It's part
of the bridle really. The flying line is attached to this connector with a Larks Head Knot,
making it easy to swap the line from kite to kite.
Where else might you use a Lark's Head? Well, I use it to connect the lower bridle lines of
the Roller and Dopero kites to their keels. In those cases the knot stays done up all the
time.
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The simple Half Hitch has many uses, but I have just one, for the MBK Skewer Kites. In
particular, the Roller and Dopero kites, where this knot is easily unpicked to adjust the
wing-tip ties where they attach to the lower horizontal spar. However, this is also it's main
disadvantage in that it eventually comes loose!
If multiple hitches are used, the top one will quickly loosen off unless it's secured with glue.
You can use a couple of hitches to attach a bridle line to its spar, as long as that little dob
of glue is added. In this situation the glue can also be used to prevent the knot from
shifting along the spar. These days I prefer to use a Double Wrap Slip Knot here.
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A small Loop Knot in the end of the line prevents this Slip Knot from coming undone. At
least in theory! In practice, the loop can still loosen off with handling, allowing even a large
knot to slip through. A tiny dob of glue will make the knot permanent after it is first tied and
tightened. Alternatively, you can simply check all the knots before each flight, re-tightening
where necessary. They are less likely to loosen in-flight.
I have used this knot many times for securing bridle lines to spars. If you keep the Loop
Knot as small as possible, it doesn't look too untidy. It's a good idea to not fix the knots
with glue until after the kite has had it's first test flight or 2. Just in case you decide to make
any changes!
For a double wrap Slip Knot, just wrap the line around the spar twice instead of once,
before slipping the Loop Knot through. Not surprisingly, this version stays tight a lot longer.
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Update History
Mar 2012 2-Skewer Diamond kite redesigned and all instructions updated.
Nov 2011 1 and 2 Skewer books combined, extended and revised.
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