A Powerful Stun Gun

Updated "Feb 16 2005"

Latest Update "Nov, 8 2009"

The version is Quite Powerful, IF T1 and T2 are made

Correctly.
"I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE BUILD THIS
DEVICE".
This Is Presented HERE, Only for the Purpose of
Demonstrating:
"How Simple a Deadly Device can be Constructed".

And If you do NOT Understand the Construction Details

Give Below, You
are DEFINATELY Not Understanding enough to Even
Attempt Making it.
I WILL NOT Offer any Further Construction Details.
NOR WILL I ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE
STUPIDITY
OR INJURIES, RESULTING FROM PERSONS
ATTEMPTING
TO BUILD OR USE THIS DEVICE.
BUT IF YOU DO SO, IT IS TOTALLY AT YOUR OWN
RISK.
"T1"

Was Home Built using a "Magnetics" Ferrite Core # "42620" and a Bobbin
# "PCB2620-12".
The Primary Consists of a Dual 18 Turn Bifular wound coil using #26 AWG Wire.
It requires 2 layers, with "Nomex" Insulation between them, As well as a layer of
Nomex over the Primary.
The Secondary Consists of 8 Layers of 40 AWG Double Insulated Enamel wire with
aproximately 40 turns per layer,
Centered on each layer so there is a dead space on either side. This Prevents possible
arcing.
Additionally a .003 Inch thick "Nomax Paper Insulation" is Placed between each
layers. Before Assembly, the Ferrite core is Gapped to 5/1000 of an inch.

"Nomex:" Is one of many Special Insulator types of paper used in the Transformer
Winding Industry.
Alternately you can use other Insulators such as "Fish Paper", Although they are Not
as Good.
With this Transformer Connected In the Circuit as Shown, Current draw is about 250
Ma at 12 volts With NO LOAD.

With the Diodes, Caps, SCR and T2 connected in a Compete Circuit, "The Current
draw can Exceed 2 Amps".
EVEN MORE POWER: A Bigger T1 Can be made Using a 42625 Core and a
PCB2625 Bobbin.
The Primary Consists of 14 Turns Bifular Wound on Two Layers.
Change the Secondary Wire to a 38 AWG, Double Insulated Wire and use about 45
turns per layer.
Fill the Bobbin with as Many layers as Possible, leaving a bit of Clearance between the
last layer and the ferrite core.
The Gap Remains the Same at 5/1000 of an inch.
This Results in a Faster Charging Time and a Higher Supply Voltage.

"T2"

Was Wound on a "Fair_Rite" Rod, # "4077375211". It Measures .375 OD by

2 inchs long.

"ANOTHER T2"

Was Wound on a "Fair_Rite" Rod, # "4077312911". It

Measures .315 OD by 1 1/2 inchs long.
Both these are Material 77 and it worked EQUALLY WELL.
But If you think All Ferrite Rods are the same and you can Just use Any Ferrite Rod,

THINK AGAIN, "YOU ARE BADLY MISTAKEN".

I Stock Both these Rods, But I Only have a few of the first one above.
And Lots of the second one.
First Apply a layer of .003 Nomex Paper Insuation. Now wind a Primary of 25 Turns,
22 AWG wire in a single Layer.
It is than covered with a .005 or .008 Nomex Paper insulation.
The .008 Nomex is a bit better to keep this Layer more even to wind over.
The Secondary is wound over this with 40 AWG, Double Insulated Enamel Wire and
aproximately 180 turns in the first layer
and than LAYER Wound in declining layers at about 10 turns per layer. A layer of .
003 or .005 Nomex is placed between Each Layer
1) 400
2) 390
3) 370
4) 360
5) 350
6) 340
7) 330
8) 320
9) 310
10) Final Layer about 125 Turns with the Output taken off Directly in the Middle,

Lenghtwise.
And a Final Couple of layers of Nomex are placed over top and Taped in place.
Total Turns, About 3,675 turns. But the Exact number of turns is Not All that Critical.
The Absolute Ideal is to "Pi" Wind the Secondary, But this Results in a Different
number of turns and only a few layers.
This Completed Transformer is than Submersed in Epoxy, (Ideally in a Plastic Form
to contain it around the transformer.)
and than placed in a "VACUUM CHAMBER" and Subjected to a high Vacuum of at
least 25 inches of Hg.
for at least 10 Minute. I usually Repeat this Vacuum Process Two or 3 Times.
The Reason for this is to Remove all Air Bubbles and have the Epoxy Totally Penitrate
between the Windings.
The Epoxy Surrounding the transformer sould be at leat 1/4 inch thick over the Outer
layer and 3/8 inch over the Ends.

Spark Gap Distance

The Correct Spark Gap Distance is Essential in the Completed Unit.
The Maximum Distance is a Function of How Well You Made T2.
Too Great of a Spark Gap Distance and T2 Shorts Out, Internally or Externally

NOTE: Some Info May have been Omitted in the Above!

This was My Prototype and I am Not Responsible for any
Errors or Omissions.

A Real Misconception about Stun-Guns, Is the Voltages.

It Sound Good in the Advertisements, But it is Current that does the damage.
The Pulsing Effect of the Stun Gun adds Enormously to the Effect, But any spark
capable of
pentrating through the clothing and Surface Skin is totally sufficant to do the job of
Penitration.

A blue spark looks pretty, but a yellow spark is

"Much Higher Current" and REALLY MORE
DANGEROUS.

MORE People are Killed by Relatively LOW Household

Voltage
than any other electrical supply.
Points to Ponder,
REMEMBER: In Reality, the spark gap determines the "Actual Voltage Available at
the probes".
With a spark gap of 1 to 2 inches or so, it may be No-where near the 100,000 Volts
And DIFINATELY NEVER the 750,000 volts that these manufacturers make claims
of.
IF YOU REMOVE THE SPARK GAP, it MAY Attempt to Attain these Voltages
But in the Process it will short out across the surface of T2.

"High-Voltage Zappers"
"It doesn't take much to generate enough high-voltage to curl your hair."
by Charles D. Rakes

Rewritten by Tony van Roon (VA3AVR)

The two circuits listed here are for the experimenter having a touch of Ben and Nikola's
fascination for working with high-voltage. But unlike those two brave pioneers who flirted
with lightning and gigantic spark coils, our high-voltage circuits are mild in comparison,
having outputs of less than 50 kilovolts (KV). Even so, don't ever become careless when
working with high voltage. To do so could be dangerous to your health and your good
nature. So please take care.
A circuit that generates a high voltage by discharging the energy stored in a large-value
capacitor through the primary winding of a high-turns-ratio step-up transformer is known a
a Capacitor-Discharge (CD) system. It's the same concept used by many of the highperformance auto-ignition systems to produce a super-hot spark. It's also the same kind of
system used by some of the top-of-the-line electric fence chargers. And let us not forget one
of the most popular persona-defense devices now on the market, the electronic Stun-Gun,
which also generates its zap with capacitor-discharge circuit.

How we make the Zap

As shown in the circuit of Fig. 1, step-down transformer T1 drops the incoming line voltage
to approximately 48 VAC and, in the process, adds a degree of safety through the
transformer's primary-to-secondary isolation from the power line. T1's 48-volt secondary is
rectified by diode D1; the resulting DC chargers capacitor C1, through current-limiter R1,
to a voltage level pre-set by R4. When the voltage on R4's wiper reaches about 8.6 volts,
Q1 begins to turn on, drawing current through R7 and the base-emitter junction of Q2.
Then Q2 turns on and supplies a positive voltage on the gate of silicon-controlled rectifier
Q3. The positive gate voltage causes Q3 to conduct, thereby discharging C1 through the
primary winding of step-up transformer T2; the end result is a high-voltage arc at the output
terminal (X).
The value of the high voltage developed at T2's output is determined by the value of C1, the
voltage across C1, and the turns ratio of T2. The frequency or pulse rate of the high voltage
is determined by the resistance of T1's primary and secondary windings, the value of R1,
and the value of C1. The lower the value of each item, the higher the output pulse rate; the
peak output voltage will remain unchanged only if C1's value remains unchanged.
Parts List, Fig. 1
All resistors are 1/2-watt, 5%, unless otherwise noted
R1 = 100 ohms, 5 watts, brown-black-brown
R2,R5 = 3K3 (3.3K), orange-orange-red
R3 = 10K, brown-black-orange
R4 = 10K, potentiometer
R6 = 33K, orange-orange-orange
R7 = 15K, brown-green-orange
R8 = 100K, brown-black-yellow
R9 = 2K2 (2.2K), red-red-red
Capacitors
C1 = 220 or 440uF, 75-100 volts, electrolytic,
or 10uF 220VAC motor capacitor (see text)
Semiconductors
D1 = 1N4003, silicon rectifier

D2
Q1
Q2
SCR1

=
=
=
=

1N756, 8 volt zener diode

2N2222, NPN transistor
2N3638, PNP transistor
NTE5463, 10-amp, 200 volt, silicon-controlled rectifier (SCR)

Other Components
T1 = Step-down transformer, 48VAC, 300mA
T2 = Auto ignition coil, or substitute (see text)

Building the CD System

The circuit shown in Fig. 1 is non-critical, so any parts layout and mounting can be used;
perfboard wiring board will probably make for the easiest assembly. But no matter what
kind of construction is used, keep T2's output terminal (labeled X) at least 3 inches clear of
all circuit components, yourself, and anything else that can conduct electricity.
The transformer used for T2 can be almost any 6- or 12V auto-ignition coil, but one
designed with a high turns ratio for a capacitor-discharge ignition system will produce the
greatest output voltage. The CD coil that we used produced a spark 1-1/4 inches in length
from the output terminal to the coil's common terminal.
An old (but good) TV flyback transformer can also be used for T2. Simply wind about 10
turns of test-lead wire around the transformer's ferrite core and connect the free ends of the
wires to the points labeled "A" and "B" in Fig. 1. Some experimenting with the number of
turns may be necessary to obtains good results with that type of transformer. Our
experiments with the TV flyback produced a voltage that would jump a 3/4 inch gap.
If a small-engine repair business is located in your area, see if the owner or mechanic will
give you a few of the old ignition coils. If you obtain several old coils, one of more should
be unusable. To produce a high voltage with a small-engine ignition coil, connect the
primary leads to terminals "A" and "B", and a 1/2 to 3/4 inch spark should be possible.
To make a "magnetic charger", select one of the ignition coils that has a good primary
winding and carefully remove the secondary winding from the coil's core. Connect the
primary to terminals "A" and "B". Position any object that you want to magnetize on the
exposed core laminations and apply power; you should hear a "Zap" sound as the magnetic
pulses hit the metal object.
Maximum Spark
If you want to achieve a maximum spark, select a CD ignition coil, and use a 440uF, 75100WVDC electrolytic capacitor for C1. Using a DC voltmeter, monitor the voltage across
C1. Adjust R4 so that the Q3 fires when the charging voltage across C1 reaches between
50-55 volts. That setting should produce a spark 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches long every second or
so.
To obtains a faster pulse rate, with some reduction in the output, change C1 to a 10uF,
220VAC motor capacitor (or any other lower value with a rating of 75 volts or more).
Experiment with different component values to obtain the desired results.
An excellent electric fence charger can be made by building the CD circuit in a suitable
case and selecting a 220uF capacitor for C1. Adjust R4 for one to two pulses per second.
Battery-powered High Voltage
A high-voltage generator circuit that can operate from a battery or other low-voltage DC
source is shown in Fig. 2. Output voltage great enough to jump a 1-inch gap can be
obtained from a 12-volt power source, and with a higher pulse rate that the circuit in Fig. 2.

A 555 timer IC is connected as an astable multivibrator that produces a narrow negative

pulse at pin 3. The pulse turns Q1 on for the duration of the time period. The collector of
Q1 is direct-coupled to the base of power transistor Q2, turning it on during the same time
period.
The emitter of Q2 is direct-coupled through current-limiter R5 to the base of powertransistor Q3. When Q3 turns on, there is a minimum resistance between its collector and
emitter. That causes a high-current pulse through the primary of T1, which generates a very
high pulse voltage at T1's secondary output terminal (labeled (X). The pulse frequency is
determined by the values of R1, R2, and C2. The values given in the Parts List were chosen
to give the best possible performance when an auto ignition co8ild is used for T1. Here too,
a CD-type ignition coil will produce the greatest output voltage.
Performance wiring board construction is a good choice for this circuit, but remember to be
careful when working near the output terminal of T1 while the power is on.

Parts List, Fig. 2

All resistors are 1/2-watt, 5%, unless otherwise noted
R1 = 10K, brown-black-orange
R2 = 4.7K, yellow-purple-red
R3 = 1K, brown-black-red
R4 = 100 ohms, brown-black-brown
R5 = 15 ohms, 5 watts, wire-wound
R6 = 270 ohms, red-purple-brown
Capacitors
C1,C3 = 0.22uF, 100 volts, Mylar
C2 = 0.47uF, 100 volts, Mylar
C4 = 470uF, 25 volts, electrolytic
Semiconductors
IC1 = 555 timer (not the
Q1 = 2N3638, or NTE129,
Q2 = 2N3055, or NTE130,
Q3 = 2N3055, or NTE130,

CMOS type)
PNP transistor
NPN power transistor
NPN power transistor with heatsink

Other Components
T1 = Auto ignition coil (see text)

Copyright and credits:

This article originally was written by Charles D. Rakes and the editors of "Electronics
Now" and "Popular Electronics" magazines and published by Gernsback Publishing, 1992
(Gernsback Publishing is no longer in business).
Editor's note and Disclaimer: This device is presented here for educational and
experimental purposes only as part of our High-Voltage Projects. Build and/or use at your
own risk. The Sentex Corporation of Cambridge Ontario, host of "Tony's Website", or Tony
van Roon himself, cannot be held liable or responsible or will accept any type of liability in
any event, in case of injury or even death by building and/or using or misuse of this device
or any other high-voltage device posted on this web site. By accessing, reading, and/or
printing this article you agree to be solely responsible as stated in the above disclaimer.

A High-Voltage Pulse Generator

"If you've ever wanted a high-voltage generator to create neat lightning effects, perform
Kirlian photography experiments or play with neon lights, then this one is for you!."
by Dale Hileman, re-written by Tony van Roon

We will describe a laboratory pulse generator using an auto-ignition coil and capable of
delivering a train of pulses up to 30,000 volts. With a couple of minor circuit and
construction variations, the project is suitable for use as an electric-fence charger, operating
at a lower voltage, but capable of much higher output current.
Applications for a high-voltage spike are numerous: electromagnetic and radio-frequency
interference (RFI) studies, electrostatic-discharge simulation; investigation of insulation
breakdown; flammability experiments; strobe effects; etc. A DC power supply or battery is
required, and pulse potential may be varied simply by changing the supply voltage. With a
12.6-volt input, the ignition-coil model delivers its maximum pulse, but a unique
multivibrator-driver circuit makes operation possible down to a supply voltage as low as
1.5 volts, yielding an output pulse of only a few hundred volts. Its pulse frequency is set by
a front-panel control, with a range from about 0.3Hz to 20 Hz.
An ignition coil, however, is not well adapted to the fence-charger application since its
output resistance is so high: typically 10,000 ohms. Thus its output pulse is strongly
dependent on loading. With a short fence, long sparks might be struck at risk of igniting
brush; while on the other hand, with a long fence, shunting by weeds or by dirt and

moisture may reduce its output voltage below and effective value. Hence for the fencecharger version the rate prf control must be omitted fro reason of safety.
No-load output of the fence-charger option is typically 4 Kv pk (kilovolts peak), or about
half that valuer when connected to a 1-mile fence. A car battery powers the fence-charger
model for about four months before recharging is needed (at recommended pulsing rate of
20 pulses/minute).
Two lamps mounted on the circuit board and visible through the see-through front panel are
important indicators of the unit's performance.
Precautions:
While a single jolt from an ignition coil is itself rarely traumatic, the resulting-reflex
muscle contraction could have unfortunate consequences. If a continuous train of pulses
causes you to involuntarily grasp the high-voltage conductor, for instance, you might not be
able to let go. On the other hand, if proper return circuit is not provided, an equally
distressing shock could be had by contact with the primary circuit. Because the ignition coil
is an autotransformer, the return circuit for the high-voltage pulse includes the power leads.
Therefore, one side of the power supply should, if possible, be Earth grounded. That
precaution besides shock by contact with the power leads, also precludes arcing within the
power supply itself as the high-voltage pulse seeks the shortest return path.
Applying that reasoning to the fence-charger option, we can see why a fixed pulse rate is
specified, as there is a strong likelihood of accidental human contact with the fence wire; a
rate of 60 pulses per minute or less being considered safe. Also, since there is a good
chance of personal contract with the power leads, a good ground connection is essential, as
with any electric-fence system. For maximum safety, we recommend a battery supply for
the fence-charger system.
If you should happen to reverse the power-supply lease to either project, the currentlimitation lamp, a large automotive bulb easily seen in the photos, lights brightly to warn
you . However, the equipments must not be allowed to remain in this condition for more
than a few seconds. Even if you never expect to make this mistake, the lamp should be
included because it limits excessive surge currents that could otherwise occur under some
operating conditions and which could blow the power transistor.
About the Circuit:
As shown in Fig. 1, free-running variable multivibrator Q1 and Q2 drive Darlington power
amplifier Q3, which makes and breaks the primary current to coil T1 as in an auto ignition
system. Duty, or "dwell" is a few milliseconds, and the high-voltage pulse is generated at
the end of the period when the circuit is broken and the field of T1 rapidly collapses trough
the winding.
An unconventional multivibrator circuit was developed to provide high saturation currents
over a wide range of supply voltages. In this design both transistors Q1 and Q2 conducting
at the same time and both cut off at the same time. Another unique feature; for safety in the
fence-charger application, the circuit is designed to automatically shut down if driver Q2
should fail to conduct for any reason (fluctuation of powersupply voltage, intermittent
connection, etc.)
Starting with both transistors cut off; C3 is discharging, its negative plate rising toward
ground at a rate determined by various series resistances; while its positive plate is held
near zero volts by a relatively low-resistance path through R6 and R7 and a resistor internal

to Q3 across its emitter base junction.

Capacitor C3 discharges fully, and then begins charging in the opposite direction as its
negative plate rises above zero volts.

When Q1 begins conducting, and its collector voltage has dropped far enough to start Q2
conducting also, then a positive-feedback action is initiated, forcing both transistors into
saturation. At the same time, power transistor Q3 is turned on by the current supplied
through R7.
Dwell is determined by the time constant R6 x C3. When the charging current of C3
diminishes below the value which will sustain conduction of Q1, then a regenerative action
is again established, this time cutting off all three transistors. It is that moment the high-

voltage pulse is generated.

Further Details:
Capacitors C5 and C6 form a voltage divider which ensures rapid cutoff of Q1; while C6
acts as a bypass to prevent Q1 from being retriggered by pickup of the high-voltage pulse.
Dwell must be long enough to permit the filed around T1 to be fully developed to its
steady-state condition under all anticipated conditions of loading. Although the period is
not critical, it may be set for optimum results with a particular coil or transformer, as
described later.
A higher capacitor value at C3 is specified with the fixed-frequency, or fence-charger
version, for reasons of safety. It allows the use of a lower resistance value for R2, reducing
the shunting effect of dirt or moisture which might otherwise cause a significant increase in
the repetition rate. That is the reason we specify an axial type for C3, so that its pads are
more widely spaced than they would be with a radial.
Power Amplifier:
Because the field of T1, as might be supposed, collapses through the primary as well as the
secondary, the inductive "kick" comprises a positive pulse on the collector of Q3. Capacitor
C4 is required, as in the conventional auto-ignition system, to prevent excessively rapid
voltage build up. Nevertheless, that reactive voltage reaches several hundred volts, and we
take advantage of it to light neon indicator NE1. Thus, each flash verifies the integrity of
the power amplifier circuit.
If no arc is drawn, the positive pulse on the collector of Q3 is followed by a negative-going
excursion. Transistor Q3, designed for inductive loads, contains a shunt diode which
prevents that "backswing" from being applied to the base through the base-collector
junction. That diode also protects Q3 if the power-supply leads are accidentally reversed.
Automotive lamp I1, as we said, limits surge currents occurring as a result of various
normal operating conditions, as well as accidents, such as the reversal of power-supply
polarity. Also, it absorbs the energy of the backswing.
The Transformer:
Practically any 12-volt ignition coil having a primary resistance of around 1.5 ohms will
work as T1 for the high-voltage pulse generator, but there's a minor consideration in the
choice of a transformer for the fence-charger project. A common 12-volt 1-amp transformer
with 115-volt primary can be used here--hooked up backward of course, so that the 115volt winding serves as secondary.
The rapid collapse of its filed when Q3 cuts off, as compared to the relatively slow 60-Hz
sinewave for which it is designed, explains how several thousand volts can be developed
across the 115-volt winding (E=L di/dt). That winding will ty0pically be found to measure
30 to 120 ohms DC, while the 12-volt winding will have a resistance of around 1 ohm. The
author has tried many such transformers for T1, including the Stancor P-8392 and P-8393.
(The latter provides a somewhat bigger jolt although it costs more than the former.) The
problem, however, lies in the breakdown rating of the 115-volt winding.
In most transformers of the species, the winding is rated for breakdown at 1500-volts RMS
(corresponding to 2100-volts pk), with a safety margin that may vary depending on the
manufacturer; the Stancor rating proving remarkably conservative. The author subjected the
winding of a P-8393 to 40 million pulses of 4-Kilovolt amplitude without breakdown.

However, he does not guarantee equally good luck in your application.

One way to preclude breakdown with such a transformer is to always operate the fence
charger with an appropriate load. If your fence isn't long enough to load T1 to 2-3 Kv pk,
you could reduce the supply voltage: Say, use a 6-volt battery instead of 12-volt. Or you
could substitute for build I1 a type having a lower current rating, and there for a higher
resistance. Either of those approaches, naturally, will somewhat reduce the effectiveness of
the unit.
Other Parts:
A type MJE5742 transistor is specified for Q3, rated at 400-volts under heavy inductive
load. However, you can at some risk substitute the cheaper MJE5741 (350-volt rating),
depending on T1. In any case, breaking the circuit to an inductive load is tricky and so if
you plan extensive experimentation you should obtains a few spare Q3's.
Potentiometer R9 for the variable pulse generator project can be any 2.5 mega-ohm unit
from the junk box. If you use one with a linear taper, though, you will find the control very
touchy at the end of the frequency range. The simplest resolution of that minor
inconvenience is to use an ordinary audio-taper potentiometer connected backward; that is
with the high end of the frequency range at the CCW (Counter Clockwise) end.
For reasons already mentioned, the time constant C3XR6 determines dwell, or "on" time.
As we have said, dwell is not critical; but if the capacitor you use for C3 is a low quality
part with an excessively high equivalent series resistance (ESR), the dwell may turn out to
be greater than necessary to serve the needs of T1. If in doubt, use a tantalum type for C3.
The Incandescent Lamp:
We have emphasized the importance of I1, the current-limiting lamp, and have specified a
type 1156 automotive bulb. The merit of an incandescent bulb as a protective device lies in
the dependence of its resistance upon the value and duration of applied current. With a cold
resistance of only about 1/2-ohm, the type 1156 degrades performance only slightly; but in
the case of a current surge or accidental short circuit, its resistance quickly rises to a "hot"
value or around 6 ohms, sparing power amplifier Q3 from the devastating requirement of
breaking an excessive current into an inductive load. Nevertheless, there is some leeway in
the selection of I1.
For instance, in the lab-generator version where the load has a DC resistance of 1.5 ohms, a
lower-resistance bulb will give a slightly better spark at high frequencies. The author has
used a type 1157 bulb here, connecting its two filaments in parallel, with satisfactory
results. On the other hand, as we have indicated above, to prolong the life of T1 in the fence
charger, you may elect a lower-current or higher-resistance bulb. Try the smaller of the two
1157 filaments, alone before experimenting further. After the unit is built feel free to try
others.
Parts List for the Fence Charger:
Semiconductors
D1 = No D1 in project; please ignore
D2 = 1N914 silicon diode or similar
Q1 = 2N3904 NPN si transistor or similar
Q2 = 2N3906 PNP si transistor or similar
Q3 = MJE5742, 8A, 400V, NPN darlington power transistor (see text)

Capacitors
C1 = 470uF, 16V electrolytic
C2 = 10uF, 16V electrolytic
C3 = For lab model: 2uF/16V, for Fence
Charger: 10uF/16V electrolytic, axial
(see text)
C4 = 0.27 uF, 400V, film
C5 = 1000pF ceramic disk
C6 = 0.01uF ceramic disk
Resistors
R1,R7 = 100 ohm
R2 = Selected (see text)
R3,R8 = 10K
R6 = For lab model: 470 ohms, for
Fence Charger: 150 ohms
R9 = 2.5 megohm pot (see text)
Additional Parts and Materials
T1 = For lab model: Wells C1819 or similar ignition coil; 1.6 ohm
primary,
10K secondary. For fence charger: 12V/1A transformer (see text)
NE1 = Neon glow lamp; type NE23 or equivalent
I1 = 12V/2A, automotive bulb, type 1156 or equivalent
Cabinet or case, PCB, solder lugs of various gauge with internal teeth,
cable to
power supply #14 to #18 gauge zip cord or whatever suits, spacers,
screws, nuts,
lockwashers, hookup wire, cable ties, solder, etc.
Additional parts for the fence charger only: two battery clips, Mueller
#46C or
the like; 1/2-inch pipe, 1-1/2 inch larger nipple, coupling, etc., for
grounding system.

Circuit Construction:
It is up to you how to house this project and the type of material to buy. You may choose to
build either version of the project in whatever kind of cabinet suits your needs. If you
decide to use wire-wrap construction however, the ground bus and all connections in the
power-amplifier circuit should be made with wire no smaller than #24 gauge. In the
author's prototypes, power transistor Q3 stands off the circuit board; but if space limitations
permit, a slight margin of safety is affordable by bolting it down flat so that the circuit
board provides a measure of heat dissipation.
Omit R2 from the circuit board and don't connect the supply conductor to the plus end of
T1 until ready to fire up. Also, leave the secondary leads unconnected for the fence charger.
In planning chassis layout, keep high-voltage output conductors well away from the circuit
board, especially in the version using an ignition coil as output transformer. A metallic or
otherwise conductive cabinet must be connected to the circuit common. Since a 30KV
pulse is capable of jumping a 1-inch gap, however, you may have some difficulty finding a
feedthrough insulator big enough to handle the high-voltage conductor. One way to meet
that requirement is to use a spark-plug wire, which may be passed through the cabinet wall
using only a grommet to prevent chafing. Or the neck of the coil itself may be used as a

feedthrough device, as in the author's mode of construction.

Lab Cabinet Loading:
If you are using the author's recommended cabinet, situate the circuit board in the left end
of its bottom. The board itself can be used as a template for drilling the four mounting holes
in the bottom of the cabinet. Mount the board-assembly on four 7/16-inch metal spacers.
The conductive coating in the cabinet bottom may be grounded with a solder lug placed
under one of the screws securing the board to a spacer.
For variable-frequency or lab model, situate the 'rate' control R9 in the clear-plastic front
panel. Bring the power cable into the cabinet through the hole in the bottom rear, using a
suitable grommet.
The coil mounts on a platform toward the other end and is secure with a hose clamp. Using
the coil called out in the parts list, some filing of the platform is required. The coil case
must be grounded or internal arcing may occur. Do not depend on casual contact between
the coil case and the conductive coating. A grounding connection can be made by inserting
an internal-tooth solder lug between the clamp and oil case. At its base, the coil is stopped
by its neck passing through a hole drilled in the end of the cabinet top. Hence, it's not likely
to come loose with normal handling.
At the free end of spark-pug wire install an alligator clip or other suitable connector. At the
other end, first slide the coil nipple onto the wire, and then install the coil clip.
Important: to preclude arcing, solder the end of the wire to the clip. Push it into the coil
neck and slip the nipple into place. When the top is installed later, the nipple provides a
tight seal.
Fence Charger Version:
Construction of the fence-charger version is somewhat simplified by less-stringent needs
for insulation and by the more conventional mounting means for T1. Whatever chassis
layout scheme you employ, however, the Earth grounding requirements described above
also apply to this model: If you use a conductive cabinet, it must be connected to the circuit
Earth, and so must the case of T1. Don't forget that a means must be provided to connect
that common to an external ground.
In the author's model of the fence charger, T1 is mounted in the cabinet bottom. To ensure a
good connection to the transformer case, first scrape any varnish or wax from the mounting
flanges. Then mount with 1/2-inch metal standoffs and 8-32 hardware. Use two or three
solder lugs as required for various grounding connections.
Mount a ceramic feedthrough insulator in the middle of the platform for fence connecting.
The underside of the platform comprises a recess which, in an outdoor installation, keeps
the output end of the insulator clean and dry.
The chimney referred to earlier provides the means for connection to an external ground. A
pipe nipple and coupling are required. First solder a length of hookup wire to the inside of
the nipple. A hot iron (say 200 watts) is required for good wetting. Loosely engage the
coupling to the nipple; and passing the wire up through the chimney, screw the nipple into
the opening by turning the coupling. The nipple may engage the coupling as it engages the
chimney. Although the chimney hole is not threaded, the nipple will nevertheless seat
securely. Turn the coupling until it is tight up against the bottom of the cabinet. If desired,
apply super glue sparingly around top edge of the nipple, bonding it permanently to the
chimney. Now, if you later need to remove the coupling for any reason, the nipple will

remain in place. Solder other end of the wire to common at the circuit board or at one end
of the lugs on the transformer flanges.

High-Voltage Attenuator:
Before proceeding with test and adjustment, you may wish to provide yourself with some
means for measuring voltage pulses beyond the range of the oscilloscope. To that end, you
can build a 90-mega-ohm attenuator, as shown in Fig. 2. When used with a standard 10mega ohm probe, the device extends the vertical range of your scope by a factor of ten.
The attenuator consists of nine 10-mega-ohm resistors connected in series. A length of
spark-plug wire provides support for the resistor array and also serves to introduce
distributed capacitance for AC equalization. To preclude arcing, each end should extend an
inch or two beyond the terminal.
Once you have commissioned your pulse generator or fence charger, you can fine tune the
attenuator by adjusting the bus-wire gimmicks at either end of the spark-plug wire. That is

most easily done by generating a high-voltage pulse within the range of your oscilloscope
(say 1600 volts peak), measuring with only the 10-mega ohm probe; then, trimming the
length of the gimmicks to give the same deflection with the probe connected to the 90-meg
attenuator (setting the sensitivity 10 times higher, of course).
Selecting R2:
We had advised you during construction to omit one connection to the primary of T1 so that
you can now select R2 without energizing the power amplifier. Using clip leads, first
connect typical value shown in the parts list. Then connect your 'scope to the junction of R6
and R7, and apply power.
For the lab pulse-generator version, now set the 'RATE' control to maximum frequency and
select a value for R2 which gives a repetition rate of about 20Hz. For the fence-charger
model, select a value which gives the desired rate, but no higher than 60 times per minute.
Remember that the slower the rate, the longer between recharging.
Now turn the supply off and add the missing wire to the power-amplifier circuit. In the
author's lab-generator chassis layout, it is necessary to first loosen the coil in order to free
the circuit board. If you plan to test the unit with the circuit board loose, be sure to
temporarily replace the lugs grounding the coil case and cabinet. Place a cardboard sheet
under the circuit board to insulate it from accidental contact with the cabinet coating, etc..
The unit is now ready for a performance test.
Testing:
Connect the high-voltage output to the 90-meg probe or whatever instrument you wish to
use to observe the high-voltage pulse. Turn the power supply on and gradually increase the
voltage (adjusting the lab-generator rate as desired), synchronizing the 'scope to display the
largest excursion. (When you don't know exactly what to expect, it's easy to be fooled into
syncing on the backswing or some other minor lobe.)
The unit should start working at a supply voltage of 1.5 to 3 volts, but it will shut itself
down if you vary the voltage too abruptly. If that happens, just tune the power off and then
back on again.
At a 12-volt input you should get a pulse of about 20 to 30Kv pk from the lab generator or
3.5 to 5Kv pk from the fence charger. In the latter version, proceed as follows to decide
which secondary lead should be grounded:
1. Turn power off and disconnect scope from both ends. Turn power back on, and using an
insulated tool (to avoid getting zapped), bring each end in turn to the transformer case,
leaving the opposite end free. One will probably draw a small arc and the other won't.
2. Turn power off and ground the one which drew the smaller arc. Connect the other to the
output feedthrough.
3. Reconnect the scope, apply power, observe polarity of output pulse. If you get a positive
pulse, reverse the primary connections. A negative pulse jumps a longer gap from a small
object (the fence wire) to a larger one (the victim) than does a positive pulse (believe it or

not).
If you wish to view the current pulse, temporarily hook 0.1 to 0.2-ohm resistor in series
with the negative power-supply lead, and connect a 'scope across it (being careful to avoid
ground loops, as can arise through test connections or via the power-line safety ground).
With fence-charger option, if possible, simulate 1-mile wire by connecting a 0.015-uF,
2000-WVDC capacitor across its output. A rising waveform characteristic of an inductor
charging should be obtained--the abrupt drop at its trailing edge of course representing the
cutoff of Q3 and the generation of the high-voltage pulse.
With the lab-generator version, dwell is not critical thanks to the relatively low inductance
of the typical ignition-coil primary. In the fence-charger option, however, primary
inductance will probably be much higher and will vary considerably upon your choice of
transformer. 3. shows the current waveform typical of such a primary. If it ends too soon,
that is before the filed has reached its steady-state value (A), then maximum output
capability cannot be attained. If it ends too late (B), then average current consumption is
higher than necessary. To get optimum results (C), adjust the width by changing R6 as
needed.
If you know the exact value of the small resistor, given the peak voltage appearing across it
you can now calculate peak current (I=E/R). A typical value is 4 to 6 amps.
Buttoning Up:
Reinstall the circuit board, remembering to replace the lugs which ground the cabinet, pipe
coupling, T1, case, etc., and to secure the coil. Test the unit once more, then assemble the
cabinet.
If you're using the author's recommended cabinet with the pulse-generator option, leave the
high-voltage cable and nipple connected to the coil, passing the other end through the hole
in the cabinet top as you bring the top into place. Slide the front panel up into the cabinet
top. Now, close the cabinet by swinging the left side down. Moderate force is required to
push the coil nipple into the hole. Make sure tongues in the cabinet top engage the mating
slots in the bottom, and hold it together with one hand while installing the cabinet hardware
with the other. Turn the five bottom screws snug, but not tight.
Cabinet assembly of the fence-charger version is easier because you don't have to cope with
the coil neck or connections to the front-panel potentiometer. For outdoor use, however,
you will have to caulk seams against the weather. Silicone rubber is good for that purpose
because it can later be peeled off if servicing becomes necessary. Arcrylic rubber makes a
better seal, but because it sticks more tenaciously, it makes later disassembly more difficult.
Carefully apply a very thin bead first along the inside edges of the opening in the top front,
and install the front panel. Then, again very carefully and sparingly, apply a bead along the
slot in the cabinet bottom; and finally, assemble the top and bottom. Depending on your
skill in the application, there may be some squishing around the seams. Surplus material
around the outsde can be peeled off later, after the sealand has set.

Installation and Operation:

For maximum safety, you should, if feasible, connect one side of the lab-generator power
supply to Earth ground. If not, then be sure to provide a return path for the spark to one of
the power-supply leads. Set the "RATE" control to get the desired rate, and the powersupply voltage to get the desired output potential. If the output is not excessively loaded,
the small in-circuit neon lamp flashes with each pulse. The auto lamp may glow dimly
when the rate is set near its upper limit, but otherwise it should never light during normal
operation. It does light brightly to warn you when the power leads are reversed or if there is
an internal short.
If you need one pulse at a time, or bursts of pulses, connect a pushbutton or momentary
switch in series with one of the power-supply leads.
If you have trouble getting lower output voltages, but not higher, the spark-plug cable may
have pulled loose. When that happens, high voltage settings give what appears to be normal
performance because the spark path is completer by jumping within the neck of the coil;
while at the lowers voltage settings it appears not to be working at all. If that difficulty is
encountered, pull the cable out, inspect the solder joints, then simply push it back into the
coil.
Using the author's cabinet and construction techniques, the fence-charger ground
connection is made through the pipe fittings sticking out of the bottom end of the chimney.
An Earth-ground means is provided by an ordinary 1/2-inch water pipe. The length should
be chosen to permit the pipe to be driven at least 3ft deep, but the deeper the better,
depending on estimated conductivity of the soil; with enough pipe rising above ground to
place the unit at a comfortable viewing level. Thus a pipe of at least 7ft is required. A more
effective ground can be had by adding salt to the soil.
Temporarily screw a pipe cap onto top end so as to protect the threads during hammering
operation. Pound it into the ground, remove the cap, and screw the fence-charger assembly
onto the end. Connect the fence and battery to the unit.
The neon lamp flashes with each pulse to assure you that everything is working okay,
except in absolute darkness, since a few photons of light are necessary to prime the neon.
That apparent drawback, however, has the definite earmarks of an advantage because when
it's pitch black the unit cannot call itself to the attention of an interloper.

Jacob's Ladder
"Build this exciting Jacob's Ladder and watch electric arcs ascend the ladder and
evaporate in space. It works from a clever 12,000-volt power supply. Author Robert
Iannini."

Re-written by Tony van Roon (VA3AVR)

People have long been fascinated by electric arcs--and perhaps put off by them. They
show up as lightning, Tesla coil discharges, and long sparks that sting as you reach for the
doorknob on a cold, dry, winter day. This Jacob's Ladder project turns electric arcs into a
dramatic but harmless conversation piece.
If you build this project, you'll lean how a simple power supply operating from the 120-volt
AC line can produce 12,000 volts. In addition to powering the Jacob's Ladder, the supply
can power plasma displays, and it has even powered a light-duty, bench-type spot welder.
Perhaps you would like to know the origin of the term Jacob's Ladder. The Bible tells the
story of Jacob's dream about a ladder that extended from earth to heaven. Jacob, the son of
Isaac, was the father of the founders of the twelve tribes of Israel. Among sailors, however,
a Jacob's Ladder is a long rope ladder that is hung over the side of a ship so the harbor pilot
can climb aboard.
Climbing Arcs:
The power supply for this project forms electric arcs across two diverging stainless steel
strips mounted in a protected case. The 16-inch long strips are mounted on insulating
Teflon blocks to eliminate possible leakage. The stainless steel strips are angled with
respect to each other so that the arcs form at the edges of the strips that are separated by
about 3/16 inch at their bases but the strips diverge to a distance of about 2 inches at their
upper ends.
The strips form a gap in the secondary winding of the output transformer. After power is
turned on, the air dielectric breaks down due to the "almost" short-circuit state across the
lower end of the gap, and an electric arc is formed.
As the arc heats up, thermal convection causes the arc to rise up the vee-shaped "ladder".
As the plasma arc ascends the ladder, its length in creases, thereby increasing the arc's
dynamic resistance and thus increasing power consumption and heat. This causes the arc to
stretch as it rises and extinguish when it reaches the top of the ladder. When the arc
extinguishes, the transformer output momentarily exists in an open circuit state until the
breakdown of the air dielectric produces another arc at the base of the ladder and the
sequence repeats.
The power supply for the Jacob's Ladder contains circuitry to protect persons and property

from electrical shock or fire hazard if the ladder strips should be shorted accidentally when
the ladder is operating.

Parts List:
All resistors
R1
R2
R3
R4,R8,R10,R12
R5
R6
R7,R9
R11

are 1/4W, 10%, unless otherwise indicated.

= 0.47 ohm, 2 watt
= 82 ohm, 2 watt
= 2K, PC mount trimmer
= 1K
= 10K, PC mount trimmer
= 10 ohms, 1/4 watt
= 27 ohms
= 220 ohms

Capacitors:
C1,C2 = 0.01uF, 1000V, ceramic
C3 = 390uF, 200V, electrolytic
C4 = 2.2uF, 250V, metalized polyester
C5 = 1000uF, 25V, electrolytic
C6 = 0.003uF, 50V, polyester film
C7 = 0.01uF, 50V, ceramic

C8 = 1.5uF, 100V, metalized polyester

C9,C10 = 1.2uF, 400V, metalized polyester
Semiconductors:
BR1 = bridge rectifier, 4A, SIP
D1,D2 = 1N4007, 1000V, 1A, diode
D3 = 1N914, silicon signal diode
D4-D7 = 1N4735, 6.2V, 1W
SCR1 = 0.8A, 200V, sensitive gate, TO-92, Teccor EC103B1 or equivalent
Q1 = 2N2222, NPN transistor
Q2 = 2N2907, PNP transistor
Q3,Q4 = IRF640, N-channel power MOSFET, 200V, 10A, Intern'l Rectifier or
equiv.
IC1 = 555 timer/oscillator
Magnetics:
T1 = Driver transformer, 30 turns primary, 60 turns secondary (see text)
T2 = Output transformer, half bridge, 32 turns pri., 2500 turns sec. (see
text)
Other Components:
S1 = Switch , SPST, panel mount, 10A, pull chain
F1 = Fuse, 3A, slow-blow
Miscellaneous:
PCB or perforated board (see text); U-chassis (see text); mirror;
metallized
plastic (see text); transparent plastic covers (see text; L-Panel (see
text);
stainless steel strips, 0.060-inch thick; 18-1/2 inches (see text)
insulating
blocks (see text); 2-feet high-voltage wire, 15 kilo-volt rating; 3-wire
power
cord with line plug; fuse holder; phenolic transformer insulator (see
text);
hookup wire; miscellaneous nuts, screws; rubber feet (4); linecord
grommet;
silicone grease; TO-220 mica washers; solder.
Notes:
The following parts and kits are available from Innovation Unlimited, Box
716,
Amherst, N.H. 03031; Telephone 603-673-4730 or FAX 603-672-5405:

Kit of electronic components and circuit board, less transformers-$69.50

Assembled and tested electronic circuit board--$89.50

Assembled and tested driver transformer T1--$9.50

Cores and bobbins for driver transformer T1--$4.50

Assembled and tested high-voltage transformer T2--$24.50

Cores, bobbins, and potting cap for high-voltage transformer--$14.50

High-voltage wire (15KV)--$0.50/foot

Teflon insulating blocks (2 required)--$5.00

(Tony's comment: Prices for the above are copied the way they were
published
in "Electronics Now" and may not be accurate anymore since dated from
1995.

Also, although Innovation Unlimited still exists, there is no guarantee

they
are still selling the kits.)

12,000 Volt Supply:

The operation of the Jacob's Ladder depends on the current limited power supply that
delivers 12,000 volts at 40 milliamperes from the 120 volt AC line. Refer to the schematic
diagram of Fig. 1. The full-wave bridge BR1 rectifies the 120 volt AC line input, and
resistor R1 limits the DC charging current of capacitor C3 to a safe value. The Jacob's
Ladder project is powered by 150 to 160 volts DC derived from the 120 volt AC line.
The drive circuit power is obtained by dropping the 120 volt AC line through capacitor C4
and current limiting resistor R2. Diodes D1 and D2 alternately conduct only in the positive
direction, and their DC output pulses are integrated by filter capacitor C5. Zener diodes D4
and D5 regulate these DC pulses to peak values of 15 volts DC.
Capacitor C4 and resistor R2 present a complex impedance so that most of the AC line
voltage is dropped across the reactance. This configuration eliminated the waste of real
power and heat losses that would have occurred by dropping the line voltage with only a
resistor.
The 555 timer IC1 is configured as a square-wave oscillator. The output frequency of its
square waves is determined by the setting of the trimmer potentiometer R5 and capacitor
C6. The frequency is is about 25 kHz for the values of R5 and C6 shown in Fig. 1. Resistor
R12 limits the high-frequency setting to an acceptable value. Potentiometer R5 can be used
to adjust the circuit's power output. Increasing the frequency reduces the circuit's output by
increasing the inductive reactance of the transformer leakage inductance.
The output of IC1 on output pin 3 appears at the bases of the current "source", NPN
transistor Q1 and "sink" PNP transistor Q2. The emitters of this transistor pair are ACcoupled through capacitor C8 and resistor R6 to drive the primary of driver-isolation
transformer T1. This drive prevents DC from flowing thought the primary. Resistor R6
dampens any overshoot that results from transformer T1's leakage inductance.
The scheme provides a satisfactory source for driving the high gate-to-source capacitance
of the two NPN switching power MOSFETs, Q3 and Q4. Transformer T1 is wound on a
high permeability core with as few turns as possible to eliminate leakage inductance.
The gate circuits of MOSFETs Q3 and Q4 contain 27-ohm resistors (R7 and R9) to slow
their switching times. This eliminates possible parasitic oscillations that could occur if the
MOSFETs were switched at their speed limit.
Output transformer T2 has a half-bridge configuration so that MOSFETs Q3 and Q4 are
only subjected to half of the rectified DC line voltage, or about 80 volts. Assuming that the
voltage midway between capacitors C9 and C10 is about half of 160 volts (or about 80
volts), when Q3 turns on, the charge on C9 causes current to flow through T2 in one
direction.
When Q3 turns off, Q4 turns on, dumping the charge on C10 through T2 in the opposite
direction. This drives the magnetic flux of T2 evenly and symmetrically, making full use of
T2's core capability. The primary of output transformer T2 contains 32 turns, but its
secondary contains 2500 turns. The ratio of these turns is approximately 1 to 78. When
multiplied by the rectified line voltage of 160 volts DC, an output of about 12,000 volts
peak volts is obtained across the secondary.
This 12,000 volt output is the peak open-circuit voltage of the system, and it produces a
short-circuit current of approximately 40 milliamperes. This current is limited by the

leakage inductance caused by the loose magnetic coupling between the primary and
secondary circuits of transformer T2. This leakage inductance can be controlled to some
extent by placing air gaps between the cores, changing the reluctance of the magnetic
circuit.
Safety Provisions:
Because this project is operated from the 120 volt AC line, fault and safety shutdown
provisions are included. They are provided by silicon controlled rectifier SCR1 connected
as shown in Fig. 1 with its anode in series with diode D3. When the gate current reaches a
specified threshold, the SCR is triggered on and latched by holding current through resistor
R4. Trigger pin 2 and Threshold pin 6 of IC1 are now clamped to ground, thus preventing
oscillation and turning off the circuit.
The signal current for the gate of SCR1 is obtained from the capacitive connection to the
actual core of the output transformer T2. This connection is made by winding three to four
turns of insulated hookup wire around the core of transformer T2. In effect, it is a
capacitive wire pick-up probe. As long as output power is flowing between the output
connections of T2, the Jacob's Ladder will continue to operate.
If, for some reason, one of the output leads (vee strips) is grounded, a return current is
forced to flow by capacitive action between the core of transformer T2 through the
wrapped-wire pick-up probe. This current then turns on SCR1, shutting down the Jacob's
Ladder.
Building the Circuit:
The high-voltage power supply circuitry for the Jacob's Ladder can be built by point-topoint wiring methods on a 5-1/2X2-1/4 inch piece of standard perforated circuit boards
(holes spaced 0.10 inch on centers) or on a circuit board available from the source given in
the Parts List. Drill mounting holes in the four corners of the circuit board before inserting
any electronic components.

All of the electronic components with the exception of transformers T1 and T2 are
standard, off-the-shelf components available from electronics stores and mail-order
distributors. However, the transformers must be custom wound. Both transformers,

completely wound and tested, are available from the source given in the Parts List.
Alternatively, you can wind your own transformers if you have some experience in doing
this. Some useful information on winding these transformers and material selection is given
later in this article under the heading, "Winding the Transformers."
Refer to the schematic in Fig. 1 and parts layout diagram Fig. 2. The parts layout diagram
gives the approximate locations of all components except for switch S1 and transformer T2,
which are off-board components. There is nothing critical about parts placement, and
suggest layout of Fig. 2 is based on keeping interconnecting wiring as short as practical. Be
sure to make the gate connection go MOSFETs Q3 and Q4 as short and direct as possible.
Begin by inserting and soldering all components except MOSFETs Q3 and Q4. Observe the
correct polarities for all silicon diodes (D1 to D3), Zener diodes (D4 and D5), and
electrolytic capacitors (C3 and C5. If you wire point-to-point, do not trim the leads of the
components until you have made use of as many excess leads lengths as is practical to form
interconnections between components.
Then insert the TO-220 packaged MOSFETs Q3 and Q4 close to the outer edges of the
circuit board in the locations shown in Fig. 2, with their metal tabs are facing outward. In a
later step, the tabs of Q3 and Q4 will be fastened to the sides of a U-shaped channel that
functions both as a heat sink and as a support for the circuit board.
Carefully examen all the electronic components on the board to be sure that they are
correctly placed and oriented. Examen all solder joints to verify that there are no
inadvertent solder bridges or cold solder joints (a joint soldered too fast and does not adhere
properly). Make any corrections at this time before proceeding. Then set the completed
circuit board aside.

Product Enclosure:
Figure 3 illustrates the author's enclosure for the Jacob's Ladder project. It was designed to
meet two objectives: 1. to meet all reasonable safety requirements by providing adequate
insulation between people and flammable materials and the enclosed high-voltage circuitry,
while at the same time protecting the circuitry form dust and dirt. 2. to be simple enough to
be made by persons with minimal carpentry skills form materials readily available at
hardware and home-improvement stores.
Many variations on the author's enclosure design are possible including changes in exterior
and interior dimensions and the substitution of more expensive wood for the framing.
However, it is imperative that all provisions for ventilating both the circuitry and the vee
"ladder" to dissipate any heat buildup be followed, but make sure that those spaces are not
large enough to admit fingers or the small hands of curious children.
The overall case dimensions are 24 x 12.5 x 4 inches. The closed H-shaped frame was

made from 3/4-inch thick x 4-inch wide soft wood. Slots that are 1/8-inch wide and 1/4
deep were milled 1/8-inch in from each edge of the inside surfaces of the frame members to
accommodate protective transparent plastic covers on the front side and a metalized plastic
mirror on the back side. (These protective sheets could be fastened directly to the case
edges with screws.)
The bottom of the case and the back of the lower circuit/transformer compartment is
covered by an L-shaped aluminum plate that serves as the vertical support for the circuit
board and output transformer. Holes drilled in the bottom of this plate permit circuit
ventilation and access to the on-board trimmer potentiometer R3 and R5. Another hole id
formed in the back of the plate for mounting on-off pull switch S1.
Figure 4 provides general information on the sizes and shapes of the principal wood and
aluminum parts. Notice the holes drilled in the top member of the frame for cooling the
ladder compartment. The author's prototype frame was made by assembling the wooden
frame with screws after the clear 1/8-inch plastic front windows and rear mirror were cut to
fit the milled slots.
The transparent plastic cover for the ladder compartment was cut 1-inch shorter than the
inside dimensions of the frame to provide a bottom opening for ventilation. This ventilation
slot is important and should be there regardless of any dimensional changes you might want
to make in the frame. The cover for the circuit compartment protects that compartment
completely. It is transparent plastic in the prototype so that the circuitry could be seen, but it
could be opaque.

Project Metalwork:
No hole sizes or location dimensions are given here for the enclosure components. Those
are left to the builder's judgment. Cut and form the U-shaped aluminum channel from No.
22 gauge sheet aluminum, as shown in Figure 4. Drill hole in both ends of the channel
along the centerline. Then, using the drilled holes in the circuit board as a guide, centerpunch and drill four holes for mounting the circuit board to the channel. (These can be
omitted if you elect to bond the circuit board to the channel with hot plastic glue drops.)
Cut the L-shaped panel as shown in Figure 4 from No 22 gauge sheet aluminum. Before
bending the front lip of folding the plate, drill 1-inch diameter holes for circuit cooling and
access to trimmer potentiometers R3 and R5. Above the fold line, drill another hole for the
linecord (powercord), large enough to admit a rubber or plastic grommet, and drill a hole to
accommodate chain-pull switch S1. Then bend the flat plate 90 along the fold line and
bend up the front lip.
Drill two holes evenly spaced within 2 inches of the ends of the stainless steel "ladder"
strips, and bend those 2-inch long sections approximately 90 with respect to the rest of the
strips. Note: Stainless steel was selected for the ladder strips because the electric arcs will
not cause the strips to oxidize or corrode, and tests showed that stainless steel permits easier
starting of the arcs than other metals.

Insulator Blocks:
The two metal strips that form the "ladder" must be mounted on insulators that have high
dielectric strength. The insulators in the prototype were made from Teflon blocks that
measure 1-1/4x1x3/4 inch high. This material can be drilled and tapped, and it is strong
enough to withstand the heat created by electric arcs. Individual Teflon blocks are available
from the source in the Parts List.
Project Assembly:
With the completed circuit board inserted in the channel, elevated slightly above the bottom
of the channel, mark, centerpunch and drill the holes in each side wall for fastening the tabs
of MOSFETs Q3 and Q4. Be sure to deburr and perhaps countersink slightly the holes in
the channel so that the tabs on the MOSFETs will be clamped securely against the channel
walls. Cut and trim the ends of two 3-inch lengths of insulated, stranded linecord to the
circuit board, as shown in Fig. 2, to make the connections with the linecord. Insert and
solder the ends of the wires on on-off switch S1.
Attach the circuit board to the U-channel with screws and nuts, using several nuts as
standoffs to isolate the circuit board from the channel. Align the tabs of MOSFETs Q3 and
Q4 with the holes in the sidewalls of the channel, insert insulating mica washers with a film
of silicone grease between each tab and the channel walls, and fasten them with screws and
nuts.
Cut a 2-1/2 inch square of phenolic laminate or circuit board stock between the base of
transformer T2 and the bottom of the channel. Bond the transformer to the insulator and
channel base with epoxy or hot glue.
Drill two holes through the wooden frame member between the two compartments, and
insulating blocks. Drill a singe hole in the opposite sides of each block and fasten the ladder
as shown in Fig. 3.
Then attach the insulation blocks and strips to the frame member with screws. Fasten the
bent metal strips so that they are offset by about 30, as shown in Fig. 3. The base strips are
diagonal across the insulator blocks so that the corner edges are separated by about 3/16
inch. The upper ends of the strips should be about 2 inches apart.
Fasten the channel with transformer T2 and the circuit board to the L-shaped panel with
screws and nuts, as shown in Fig. 3. Complete the installation of switch S1 and the linecord
with a grommet, and complete all soldering. Be sure the L-shaped metal panel is hard-wire
connected to the earth ground by means of the green wire within the three-wire power-cord.
Assemble the enclosure with its plastic covers and aluminum base plate. The Jacob's
Ladder is now complete.
Adjusting the Ladder:
Carefully examine your work to be sure that there are no inadvertent short circuits of cold
solder joints. The circuit is now ready for testing. First, adjust potentiometer R5 as follows:
1. Disconnect one end of R1 to Q3.
2. Connect an oscilloscope to the Q4 gate.
3. Plug in power cord and turn on power.
4. Adjust R5 for a period of 40nS so 15-volt squarewaves are symmetrical.
5. Shut off power, reconnect R1, and connect the oscilloscope to the Q4
drain.

Turn on power. A near perfect squarewave

should appear, and it should remain
constant as arcs form and reform.

Adjusting procedure for the ground-fault potentiometer

R3 to shut off the circuit if there is ground-fault current:
1. Turn off power and set wiper of R3 for
maximum sensitivity.
2. Disconnect a high-voltage lead from a
ladder strip, and connect it to ten
1-watt, 100 kilo-ohm resistors in series.
(This simulates a 10-milliampere
ground current.)
3. Apply power and verify that the circuit
shuts down. Turn off power, adjust R3
slightly clockwise. Reapply power until
high voltage stays on. Note: allow
time for C3 to discharge before re-applying
power or SCR1 will stay on.

Winding the Transformers:

Figure 5 is a "footprint" diagram of drive transformer T1
with callouts that can be related to those found on the schematic Fig. 1. The cores and
bobbins for this transformer are from Philips (Ferroxcube) Components, Saugerties, NY).
The cores are No. E187 made from 3E2A molded ferrite material. The plastic molded
bobbins are Part No. E187PCB1-8. These parts are available from the source given in the
Parts List.
Transformer T1: Wind the first 30 turns trifilar (three wires in parallel) from No. 30 AWG
magnet wire and the remaining 30 turns as single wire turns. Solder the ends of the
windings to the pins, insert the E-core, and tape the assembly together securely.
Transformer T2: The core of transformer is No. 4162S from Samhwa USA, Chatsworth
CA, with matching seven segment bobbin, cup and primary bobbin. These parts are also
available from the source given in the Parts List.
Start winding the secondary bobbin by securing the magnet wire to a pin insulated on the
bobbin end and wind between 300 and 400 turns of No. 37 AWG magnet wire on each of
seven segments. Snap the cup in place and solder the output leads. Fill the cup with epoxy
or RTV Silicone when you are satisfied that the transformer has been wound correctly.
Wind eight turns of No. 30 twisted wires on the primary bobbin and tape the windings in
place. Form the air gap of the primary section with 0.005-inch thick Mylar tape and form
the air gap for the secondary section with 0.010-inch thick Mylar tape. Tape of clamp the
two sections together with a heavy rubber band.
Parts List:
All resistors are 1/4-watt, 10%, unless otherwise noted
R1 = 0.47 ohms, 2 Watt
R2 = 82 ohms, 2 Watt
R3 = 2K, trimmer potentiometer
R4,R8,R10,R12 = 1K
R5 = 10K
R6 = 10 ohms
R7,R9 = 27 ohms
R11 = 220 ohms
Capacitors:

C1 = 0.022uF, 50WVDC metalized film

C3-C12 = 0.001uF, 2000WVDC ceramic disk
C13 = 220uF, 25V, electrolytic
C14 = 4700uF, 35WVDC, electrolytic
Note: There is no C2.
Semiconductors:
D1-D10 = 1N4007, 1A, 1000PIV, silicon rectifiers connected in series (see
text)
D11 = 1N4007, 1A, 1000PIV, silicon rectifier
Q1 = TIP31A, Darlington transistor
U1 = MC1458BAL hex, inverting Schmitt trigger, IC
BR1 = 6A, 50PIV, full wave bridge rectifier
Led1 = Jumbo green light emitting diode
Other Components:
Ne1 = Ne2 neon lamp
T1 = Ferrite core step-up transformer (see text)
T2 = 12 Volt, 2A, power transformer
PL1 = 117 volt AC plug with line cord
Perfboard materials, enclosure, battery, heat sink, IC sockets, battery,
wire,
Battery, Battery holder, solder, hardware, etc.

Please Note: don't ask for additional information. This is all there is. Don't email me or
leave messages in regards to this project in the "Message Forum"; they will be deleted
without prior notification. NO I don't sell a kit, NO I don't have a pcb either. The
'suggested' parts lay-out diagram refers to perforated board. Meaning, you do point-to-point
wiring and soldering.
However, on the positive side, I may try to put a kit together with all parts and maybe a pcb
if there is enough interest.

HIGHT VOLTAJE

SPARK GENERATOR CIRCUIT

These somewhat low powered versions shown here are probably

around 50,000 volts on a slower pulse rate.
(If they are Built Correctly.)
The main power limitation to these two devices is T1. These are actually
minature "Audio Transformers"
connected in reverse to step up the 12 volts to around 400 volts, with no load.
These are not ideal parts for this purpose as they don't have the ability to
produce the high currents
that would result in a more sustained spark on the output.
This Medium powered version has a center tapped primary with dual
transistors, resulting in a
more efficient circuit. For Simplicity and "Off the Shelf", this was the best I
could do.

If your an adventurist, you could wind a small transformer for any of these
units below.

This would allow for higher efficiency and more current draw.
On the "Low Power" Stun-gun, Current draw is about 80 Ma at 9 volts.
On the "More Power" Stun-gun, Current draw is about 225 Ma at 9 volts.
With dual batteries, Better yet, 6 to 8 "AA" cells

Most Commerical Stun Guns, use either a "Spark Gap" or a "Surge

Arrester" (Movistor) to control Triggering of T2.
1) These Spark Gaps are just a Cross of two Metal strips.
Adjusting them is somewhat Critical and they are NOT very reliable over
time.
Like Relay Contacts, they get Pit marks and than Fail to work properly.
2) Surge Arresters are made for Fixed Voltages.
Athough they are a simple solution, they don't allow for easy tuning of the
output spark rate.
Mostly they use Movistors rated between 800 to 1400 Volts.

As an alternative to these, I use an "SCR", as these allow for a good &

reliable adjustment to trigger T2.
The biggest draw-back is finding really high voltage SCR's. The SCR I
normally use is rated at 800 Volts @ 0.8 Amps.
Thats Not too bad, but a 1000 to 1200 volt rating would be nicer.
My hope is this info is a Help to some of you who just like to play a bit and get a
understanding of them.

In No Way Do I Recommend Building these Stun-Guns or the actual use of

them for any purpose what so-ever.
I Assume NO LIALIBITY for any resulting actions of those persons who
build or use any of these devices!

A Real Misconception about Stun-Guns, Is the Output Voltages.

Although this Sounds Good in the Advertizements, It is Current that does
the damage
and any spark capable of pentrating through the clothing and skin is totally
sufficant to do the job.
A blue spark looks pretty and will hurt, but a "YELLOW SPARK" is
"MUCH HIGHER CURRENT" and GETS REALLY DEADLY.
A Point to Ponder, Here is a picture of a 10 inch Diameter Porcelain
Insulator!
This is the type used on the High Tension Power lines that run through the
country side.
On a 750,000 volt line, they will use about 35 of these insulators hooked
together in a series string.
The "Flash-over Voltage" of this Insulator is 80,000 Volts and that is over a
"surface distance" of about 11 inches.
When have you ever seen a 100 KV Stun Gun with even a 10 inch Spark
Gap?
In Reality, the spark gap determines the "Actual Voltage Available at the
probes".
With a spark gap of 1 to 2 inches or so, it is No-where near the 100,000 to
750,000 volts that these manufacturers claim.

Stun gun (taser)

The stun (also known as taser) can paralyze the attacker with paralyzing electric shock.
Brief contact with the stun gun output voltage he gets an electric shock that temporarily
paralyzes him to deter further attacks. Prolonged contact with the stun gun output voltage
(more than 1s) leads to muscle spasm, the attacker falls to the ground. Up to several
minutes he is unable to coordinated movement.

The stun principle:

Stun gun works as a two-stage voltage converter. The first stage with the high frequency
switching transformer increases the voltage of the battery to a higher voltage of a few
hundred volts to several kV. This voltage is charging a capacitor. After being charged the
capacitor is discharged into the second (pulse) transformer to increase the voltage to
approximately 10 - 50kV. (Numbers on the Stun gun as 100 000 V or even 2000 000 V are
fictitious, voltage 2 000 000 V would create discharges of more than 2m long manufacturers are just competing in the silly numbers of volts the general public does not
understand.) Repetition rate is about 5 - 40Hz.

Types of stun guns:

There are 3 basic types: Thyristor (SCR) ones, spark gap ones and multiplier ones. spark
gap stun guns are just the cheapest types are very unreliable and ineffective. Thyristor is
replaced by a spark gap. Battery voltage is boosted using transistor converter. For the
ignition of the spark gap, a higher voltage (at least 1kV) is needed and is therefore
sometimes an auxiliary multiplier is attached to the secondary of the first voltage
transformer. After charging the capacitor to a voltage sufficient to ignite the spark gap it
discharges into the capacitor in the pulse transformer. The principle is similar to the Tesla
coil. Thyristor stun guns are more reliable and more efficient - the spark gap is replaced by
thyristor (SCR). Capacitor voltage is not so high, just about 250 - 500V. Thyristor is driven
by a diac, neon lamp or resistive divider (for thyristor control with sensitive electrode).
multiplier stun guns have only one transformer with a higher output voltage, followed by a
high-voltage multiplier cascade of diodes and capacitors. Their output is a DC voltage.
Thanks to the capacitors in multipliers the sparks are very loud. In direct contact with the
skin, however, capacitors are not discharged in pulses, but continuous current flows, which
can significantly reduce the effect. It is therefore necessary to only get the electrodes close
to the attacker body, but not touch him directly.

My stun gun:
I chose thyristor (SCR) version. I made a voltage converter with a MOSFET, because
"children's" push-pull converters with bipolar transistors used in commercial stun guns
have an efficiency of around 20%. The effectiveness of my converter is about 75%.
Working frequency is about 80 - 120kHz. As a second stage switch I used a thyristor with a
gate driven by 4 glow neon lamps in the series (their ignition voltage is about 95V, a total

of 380V). Pulse repetition rate is about 30 - 50Hz. Inverter transformer is on ferrite EE core
with cross-section of the the middle column 20 to 25 mm2. The air gap is in the middle
column of the core and is about 0.5 mm thick. Primary has 2x 12 turns of wire diameter of
0.4 mm, a secondary is 700 turns of wire 0.1 mm. Secondary is is wound in several layers,
which are isolated from each other - otherwise the wire enamel can break down under such
voltage. Secondary polarity must be observed! HV pulse transformer with voltage of many
kV can be hard to make. You can use the high voltage transformer for Xenon strobe lamps
ingition. I used 2 such transformers with primaries in parallel and secondaries in series. The
stun gun has two electrodes: one called test, which are closer to each other. Among them he
discharge forms during no-load operation. Discharge limits the maximum voltage and also
serves to deter an attacker. Second, the main electrodes facing forward. The distance
between them is considerably larger than the distance between the test ones. From those
electrodes the current flows into the body of attacking people :). Stun gun can be powered
by 6 cells 1.5 V or 6 to 7 cells 1.2 V (NiCd or NiMH). Very suitable are 2 cells of Li-ion or
Li-pol connected in series (2x 3.6 - 3.7 V). The stun gun draws a high current around 1.5 A
from the battery, so ordinary 9V battery can not be used.
WARNING!
Instructions for the production of this device is intended only to demonstrate the
principle of its function. The device is not intended for use on any persons or animals.
Output voltage can cause serious injury or death. Capacitors can remain charged even
after switching off and disconnecting the battery. The device does not belong to
children. All experiments with the stun gun you do at your own risk. The author of
this website does not take any responsibility for your harm. You do everything on your
own risk and responsibility.

The schematic of the homemade stun gun (taser).

Testing in breadboard

PCBs of the stun gun and the 9V / 400V transformer.

Test the assembled module with attached transformer (transformer is used for ignition of
Xe lamp: 190V / 6kV)