Photographing Food Issue 1
Photographing Food Issue 1
Photographing Food Issue 1
com)
Transaction ID: 5PK966686A454951S
photographing
food
WINDOW
l i g h t in g
is s ue 1
Window Lighting
In This Issue
13
A Doughnut 2 Ways
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25
29
32
35
Introduction
5
8
12
13
16
19
29
White on White
Backlighting Beer
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Light Makes
Shadows
Understanding and learning how to
control these shadows is the goal.
The
Daylight
Studio
photographing FOOD I s s u e 1 W i n d o w L i g h t
HARD Light
& Onions
soft Light
& Onions
A soft light source will make your dishes look delicious! Soft
undefined shadow edges are a sign that you are working with
a soft light source. On an overcast day, the sun shining through
the clouds will create a soft diffused light source. If there are no
clouds in the sky, you can make diffused light by placing diffusion
material between your subject and light source. This will create a
nice soft diffused light source. On the next page, you will see what
the onions look like with a white bed sheet used as a diffuser.
Find your
Hang your
Make any
diffusion material diffusion material Adjustments
I like using a thin white
Raise the garage door.
bed sheet as diffusion material.
Experiment with different
Attach the diffusion material to
materials such as wax paper,
the bottom of the garage door
parchment paper, or other white
using A clamps. If photographing next
translucent fabrics. Any white and
to window, attach the fabric to a curtain
translucent material will work. To avoid rod or tape over the window.
adding a colorcast to your subject, only
use white diffusion material.
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Camera Settings
ISO: 1600
Aperture: f/5
Shutter Speed: 1/1600 second
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro
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When working
in a daylight studio the
quality of light will change
throughout the day. As I
have mentioned before,
there are factors like time
of year, weather, direction
that your window faces,
and time of day that will
effect the quality of your
light. In this example, I am
using the same garage
door and set up as in
the Hard Light & Onions
example. The difference
is that it is now later in
the day and the sun has
changed positions in the
sky.
As the sun moves
across the sky, from east
to west, it will change
the quality of light that
comes through your
window or garage door. In
the Hard Light & Onions
example, the photos were
taken around 1:30 in the
afternoon. At this time
of day, the sun was at an
angle that allowed for hard
light to shine through the
garage door. I didnt like the
look of this hard light, so I
used a diffusion material to
diffuse the light.
It is now later in
the day, and the sun has
now started to go behind
the roof the house. This
angle and obstruction
by the house provides a
semi-hard quality to the
light.
Semi-Hard Light
& Carrots
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Camera Settings
ISO: 2000
Aperture: f/9
Shutter Speed: 1/250 second
Lens: Canon EF 50mm f/1.4
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This Tabletop
reflector reflects
light back onto the
subject, filling in the
shadows.
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Fi n al
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Camera Settings
ISO: 2500
Aperture: f/9
Shutter Speed: 1/60 second
Lens: Canon EF 50mm f/1.4
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The
Tabletop
Reflector
Simple to make and
perfect for the shooter
without a free hand.
The Tabletop Reflectors V shape
allows it to stand up by itself
while reflecting light back onto
your subject. This makes it perfect
for when you have to shoot by yourself
and dont have a free hand. Its small
collapsible size makes it a great travel
companion. To make this reflector you
will need 2 equal sized pieces of white
foam board and duct tape.
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Correct Exposure
with
White on White
What you see and what
your camera sees can be
different.
Are you using the correct
exposure given to you by your camera?
Have you ever noticed that the whites in
your images dont turn out white? If you
are having this issue, you are not alone. To
illustrate the white on white, I am using
a white set, white props, and a white
subject. Here is how to solve the problem.
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After stacking my white doughnuts on a white plate, I am
ready to shoot. Everything in my scene is white, and I want my
image to be a bright and vibrant white. I set my camera to the
correct and normal exposure. Click. The result is the picture
that you see in square 1. The whites arent white. They are grey.
If you have ever taken a picture in the snow, I am sure you have
encountered this same issue. When a scene is filled with white,
the cameras metering system will read the scene as grey and
will think that grey is the correct exposure. To fix this, you will
have to increase the exposure. You can increase your exposure
by increasing the ISO, shooting at a wider aperture, or a slower
shutter speed.
In the images below, I increased the shutter speed in 1/3
stop increments until I began to blow out my highlights. The red
indicates blown out highlights. When shooting white on white,
you want to preserve all the detail in your subject. Blowing out
your highlights loses that detail. For my camera, +2 2/3 from the
normal camera exposure is the correct exposure for this image.
The picture is a bright white and the highlights arent blow out.
On the next page is a larger version of the image.
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Camera Settings
ISO: 800
Aperture: f/7.1
Shutter Speed: 1/50 second
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro
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Lets move from the garage to an indoor set up. This set up uses a sliding glass door as the key light. Many of you
may be shooting in a similar situation. This window faces east. Look at the top image of the scene outside. Do you see the
shadow line outside of the house? Notice how the sun is brightly shining on the fence and not on the stone patio. If it was
earlier in the day, the sun would be shining directly through the window. In this shot, the sun has already passed over the
house and the window is now in the shade. This shaded light is softer than the direct sunlight you would find earlier in the
day. If you have a window like this, try shooting at different times of the day to find when the light is best for you.
Look at the two images below. Notice how one has diffusion material and the other doesnt have any. Do you see
how the reflective slate background acts differently in each shot? On the next page we will further explore these differences.
NO Diffusion
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Diffusion
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Diffusion
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No Diffusion
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Camera Settings
ISO: 1000
Aperture: f/4.5
Shutter Speed: 1/80 second
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro
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Backlighting Beer
You have seen photos with the key light placed on the
side. Lets try something different. Place the light behind
the subject. Backlighting your set will cause shadows to fall
in front of the subject and the back of the set to be brighter
than the front. When shooting liquids, backlighting allows
light to shine through and illuminate the subject.
When shooting beer, a room
temperature beer will produce more
foam than an ice cold one. If you are
trying to achieve an icy frosted glass
look, use dulling spray to give the glass
a frosted look. Storing the glass in the
freezer and then pouring a warm beer
will not work. For this shot, I didnt
want an icy glass look, so I used a clean
beer glass. When selecting a glass
remember to use one that works with
your theme. Beer wouldnt be served in
a martini glass.
Pour the beer until it is about
1/3 of the way full. There will be a thick
head of foam on top.
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Let the foam settle. Using a
spoon scoop out the foam and place
it into a bowl. Scoop, pulling the foam
up the side of the glass. This will leave
legs behind. Leave legs on both
sides of the glass.
Set your exposure. Increase the
exposure from what the camera says
is normal. Choose an exposure that
gives the beer a bright glowing look,
but doesnt blow out any highlights.
Notice that with our backlighting
set up the shadows fall in front of
our subject and the beer has a nice
glowing look.
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Fi n al
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Camera Settings
ISO: 1600
Aperture: f/7.1
Shutter Speed: 1/50 second
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro
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The
Tungsten
Studio
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The
Picture Frame
Diffuser
An inexpensive, small,
and portable diffuser
The second piece to the tungsten
counter top studio is the diffuser. This
diffuser can be made from items that you
probably have around your house. It is
small, lightweight, and can quickly fold
up for storage. With this diffuser you are
able to create a window for the light to
shine through.
All you need is a picture frame,
Velcro, a white undershirt (that
you can cut up), and black foam
board. The size of the picture
frame will dictate the size of the window
that you create. For this example I used an
11x14 frame that was made out of plastic.
You can use whatever frame you like as
long as Velcro can adhere to it.
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green landscape
the way to go
Bare
Light
The 500 watt work lamp packs a very bright light in a small
package. Remember that this light will heat up while you are using it.
Without any diffusion, the light is a very hard light source casting hard
shadow edges. Look at the shadow cast by the orange cup. See how
it is hard and defined? This is similar to the quality of light seen in the
Hard Light & Onions example. For a softer more pleasing light, place the
picture frame diffuser in front of the light.
Diffused
Light
With the picture frame diffuser placed in front of the light you can
see a distinct difference. Look at the shadow cast by the cup. Notice how
the shadow is softer and less defined. This diffuser will cast a beautiful,
soft light over our set. In the next few examples, I will show you how you
can use this lighting set up to create beautiful images when natural light
is unavailable. When using the diffuser, remember not to place it too
close to the light and to use the work light only when shooting.
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The countertop
lighting set easily
fits on your kitchen
counter. I am using
a painted board as a
background.
In this example, I will walk through using the tungsten counter top studio to shoot a stack of pancakes. When using this lighting set up for the first time, you will need to adjust your cameras white balance setting. In past examples,
we have been shooting with daylight and your cameras daylight white balance mode or auto balance mode will work
fine. When working with a 500 Watt work lamp as a lighting source adjustments need to be made.
The countertop
lighting set easily
fits on your kitchen
counter. I am using
a painted board as a
background.
No lighting
Daylight Balance
Tungsten Balance
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Stack
Adjust
Garnish
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1,2,3... POur
Your lighting, exposure, and pancakes are all set
up. The final step is the syrup pour! When you think
about pancakes, you know they arent complete without
a pool of syrup cascading down the sides. After all, why
would you stack them if you didnt want the syrup to run
down the sides? When pouring the syrup, you have one
chance to get the shot right. To ensure that you capture
that perfect pour, use a tripod and a remote. With one
hand hold the remote; Pour the syrup and with the other hand. Click away and capture as many pictures as you
need to get the shot. When shooting multiple pictures,
your focus can shift between shots. When the lens is
on autofocus, it will refocus with each shot. Moving the
syrup around could cause the lens to change change its
focus after each shot. To ensure that your pancakes remain in focus, switch your lens to manual focus. This will
prevent it from refocusing while shooting. With the lens
in manual focus, focus on the front of the pancakes. Your
focus will not readjust while shooting. Below are the 12
shots I took while pouring the syrup. On the next page is
the final shot.
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Camera Settings
ISO: 640
Aperture: f/4.5
Shutter Speed: 1/160 second
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro
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Above is a picture of a set being lit by a 500 watt
work light behind the picture frame diffuser. The light is on
the left hand side causing the shadows to fall on the right
side of the glass. Notice how the light covers the majority of
the set. The lights range begins to fall off and darken in the
back left corner. The bottom picture shows what the final
framing of the image will be.
No Blocking
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Above is the same set as the image to the left, but
this time with a piece of black foamboard placed in front
of the picture frame diffuser. Look what happens to the
light over the set. Do you see how the back half of the set
is darker than before? Blocking the light with foam board
prevents light from directly falling on parts of the set.
Below is what the lighting will look like in the image.
Blocking
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3
add ice.
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Camera Settings
ISO: 640
Aperture: f/9
Shutter Speed: 1/30 second
Lens: Canon EF 50mm f/1.4
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Directing
Need a new look to your images? Try a new direction with you lighting. You can place
your
Front lighting, back lighting, left side and right side light lighting are the four basic
LIghting
the light anywhere around the subject, but there are four main directions to light from.
directions. Below are examples of each. Look at how the look of a set can change when
Front LIghting
In this type of lighting, the light is placed infront of
the subject. Notice how the background is darker than the
foreground. Shooting with this type of lighting set-up can
leave your images looking flat.
photographing FOOD I s s u e 1 W i n d o w L i g h t
Back Lighting
This is one of my favorite lighting set-ups. The light
is placed behind the subject with a fill card in the front.
Notice how the shadows fall in front of the subject.
Back Lighting
Here are the same wings with backlighting and a different camera
angle. The light is not directly behind the wings but slightly askew.
Notice how the light reflects off the wet sauce and the shadows fall
in front of the wings. In the next image I will move the light farther to
the left.
Camera Settings
ISO: 4000
Aperture: f/7.1
Shutter Speed: 1/160 second
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro
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Camera Settings
ISO: 4000
Aperture: f/7.1
Shutter Speed: 1/160 second
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro
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A Doughnut 2 ways
2 camera angles, 2 lighting directions, 1 subject
As you have seen throughout this issue, there are a variety of ways to light your subject.
I encourage you to try all of these methods and experiment to figure out what lighting best
fits your photographic style. If you like harder, edgier, images then hard light may be what
you gravitate to. If you like soft inviting images then super soft diffused lighting may intrigue
you. When shooting, dont forget to experiment and try new things by changing your direction and camera angle. Below are two images of the same doughnuts with the two different
lighting patterns.
In this shot of the doughnuts, I am using left side lighting with the 500 watt lamp and
picture frame diffuser. The soft light created by the diffuser spills over the set. On the right
side is a large piece of white foam board. The foam board reflects the light back onto the
set filling in the shadows. This nice even lighting is great for highlighting the number of
doughnuts in the image.
In this second shot of the doughnuts, I have moved the light behind. This backlighting
leaves a brighter background with a darker foreground. Notice how the shadows fall in front of
the doughnuts. Notice how changing the camera angle reveals more of the doughnuts shape.
This soft backlighting casts a soft and flattering light over the doughnuts. This image has a
foam board reflector filling light back in. If you are looking for more contrast, you can remove
the reflector.
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Fi n al
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Camera Settings
ISO: 2500
Aperture: f/10
Shutter Speed: 1/200 second
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro
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Camera Settings
ISO: 640
Aperture: f/3.5
Shutter Speed: 1/200 second
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro
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