Training Manual

Installation guide, product datasheets, technical information, TREM cards and storage information

Contents
Contents

Page No.

Information About the Installer's Manual

Introduction to GRP roong

Component Parts of a GRP Roof

Tools and Materials

Stages of Installing a GRP roof

Stage 1- Laying the Deck

Stage 2- GRP Edge Trims

10 - 13

Stage 3- Laminating

14 - 16

Stage 4- Topcoating and Finishing

17

Catalyst Addition

18

Material Quantity Estimation

19

Troubleshooting

20-24

General Information
Overview and Datasheet

Overview
The GRP roong Installation Manual contains practical guidance for installaing a GRP roof. It is recommended for installers to attend a training
course before attempting to lay a GRP roof. COSHH data for the GRP roong system can be found at the back of this manual.

Product Description
GRP roong system.

Standards Compliance
Part L Building Regulations Complicance (as of April 2006:)
For refusbished at roofs GRP can be specied with a calculated U value of 0.25W/m2K for (Calculated in accordance with BS EN ISO 6946)
For new build at roofs GRP can be specied with a calculated U value of 0.20W/m2K for (Calculated in accordance with BS EN ISO 6946)

General Information
Introduction to GRP Roong

What is GRP?
Glass Reinforced Polyester (GRP) is a composite material made from a polyester resin which is reinforced by Chopped Strand Mat (CSM)
glass bres to form a GRP laminate.

History of GRP
GRP was discovered in the late 1940s. It was quickly adopted during the 1950s and 60s for a wide number of applications where its corrosion
proof properties, allied to its high strength and excellent appearance soon proved to be invaluable. Today, it has become the standard material
for the construction of small craft, water tanks, processing vessels, building cladding panels and roof lights.
When used for roong, GRP provides a completely weatherproof system without any of the problems associated with traditional roong
materials. Its unrivalled performance protects millions of square metres of roofs throughout the UK, to the extent that there are GRP roofs laid
more than thirty years ago which are yet to show signs of deterioration.
While GRP roong boasts qualities that make it the best roong system money can buy, these qualities are dependant on how the roof is laid.
A GRP roof will fail if it is laid incorrectly. The performance of the roof is therefore reliant on the installers ability to lay it.

Other Uses for GRP

The durability and lightweight qualities of GRP make it an ideal construction material for applications as diverse as lorry aerofoils and roofs,
transport containers, micro-light body parts and automotive body panels. GRP is also used in hostile industrial settings for applications such as
tanks and underground pipes. This is due to its ability to withstand high temperatures and its resistance to chemicals.
Unlike any other roong material, GRP has properties that render it ideally suited to small craft construction. As well as being an inexpensive
material, it is robust, exible and will never corrode. A number of RNLI lifeboats are constructed completely from GRP. Lifeboats such as the
Atlantic 75 are used in heavy weather for inshore rescue. GRP is also used throughout the automotive industry for after-sale body kits, body
repair kits, kit cars, and body panels for production cars.

The GRP Roong Market

GRP has been used for roong applications for over fty years. Technological advances in resin production and altering its material properties
over the last thirty years have led to the manufacture of resins specially formulated for roong. GRP roong started to gain popularity in the
mid eighties and now accounts for between 1-2% of the UK's roong market covering millions of square metres of the UKs roofs.

What is a GRP Roof?

The GRP roong system is constructed from a single-ply GRP laminate applied in situ over 18mm OSB3 deck. The roof is nished with GRP
edge trims and a coat of GRP topcoat.

Topcoat Layer

Pigmented polyester
resin

GRP Laminate

Polyester resin
reinforced by
Chopped Strand Mat

Decking

Good quality
18mm OSB 3 decking

General Information
Component Parts of a GRP Roof

This cross-section shows a breakdown of a typical GRP roong installation and its component parts:

3
2

5
4

B230 edge trim

D260 edge trim

C100 edge trim

A200 edge trim

C1 universal external corner

2400mm X 600mm X 18mm OSB3 decking

450g/m2 Chopped Strand Mat

GRP laminate (Roong Resin reinforced by CSM)

Topcoat layer

Most GRP roong installations are for simple domestic at roofs like the one shown below. Roofs like these incorporate the four most
commonly used trims: A200, B230, C100 & D260. The roof shown below has been nished in a pigmented green topcoat with a non-slip
aggregate nish.
1

C100 Simulated lead ashing.

The edge of this roof was masked off before the

aggregate nish was applied.

B260 raised edge trim - Used to direct the ow of water

off the roof.

C1 preformed universal external corner.

C4 Preformed universal internal corner.

A200 drip trim - Laid to facilitate water running off the

roof.

A slight fall is engineered into the substrate to avoid

standing water.

B260 raised edge trim.

D260 - laminated into the substrate, remains unattached

behind the C100 ashing.

10

This roof is nished with a non-slip aggregate coating

1
10
7

5
6

General Information
Tools and Materials

Tools
Strong shovel
Wrecking bar
Claw hammer
Circular saw/jig saw
Mastic gun
4" grinder + stone blade for cutting trims
Diamond blade for cutting chase into wall
Sweeping brush shaft for rollers
Sanding pads
40 grit paper
Soft and stiff sweeping brush's
Ground sheet (in case of rain (must be visqueen))
Compressed air or gas powered nail gun

GRP roong materials

Roong Resin
Topcoat

This is available in any BS4800 colour, 16 colours ex-stock, grey

pre-pigmented as standard.

GRP Edge trims

Chopped Strand Mat

This is available in 2 weights: 450g/m 2 for most roofs and 600

g/m2 for applications where the roof will be subjected to heavy
foot trafc (i.e. a walkway or balcony.)

Catalyst

Catalyst can be supplied in different strengths to compensate for

seasonal variations in termperature.

Acetone
Mixing buckets
Bandage
Brushes

Required for details

2.5" & 7" polyester rollers

This can be extended with a brush handle

Consolidating rollers/ paddle roller

This can be extended with a brush handle

Disposable gloves

Other materials
Finishing tissue
19mm X 38mm treated tile batten
OSB3 decking board (2400 X 600 X 18mm T&G)
63mm paslode nails

All nails should be galvanised and at least 60mm long and should
be ring shank nails, screws or better.

13mm galv felt nails (for xing trims)

Clear silicone (for sealing ashings into wall only)
Bottles of eyewash

Always have eyewash on site in case of an emergency.

Disposable latex gloves

Protective goggles

General Information
Stages of Installing a GRP Roof

The installation of a GRP roof can be divided into 4 stages:

1) Preparing and decking the roof (page 9)

The old roof covering is removed if necessary and the roof is re-decked with OSB3
18mm tongue and groove boards.

2) Fixing the edge trims (pages 10-13)

GRP edge trims are xed to the perimeter of the roof and can be used to adapt the GRP
laminate to almost any specication.

3) Laminating (pages 14-16)

Joints between decking, gutters, GRP trims and protrusions e.g. rooights are bandaged
at this point. The entire roof is then laminated with a layer of GRP.

4) Topcoating and nishing (page 17)

The roof is then topcoated, with the clients specication of colour and nish.

Stage 1
Laying the Deck

Preparing the deck

If the substrate is unt for overboarding onto directly then the surface will need to be removed. When laying decking, it is important to
remember that the decking board will absorb moisture if in contact with water. Any moisture trapped within the roof will cause board
movement and possibly joint failure. As with laying the laminate, ensure that conditions are dry before decking the roof. After removing the
old decking, check that all roong joists are sound and free from rot. replace these as required. If possible, build a fall into the substrate so
that the roof can drain completely and remain free from standing water.

Laying the deck

2400 X 600 X 18mm OSB3 tongue and groove boards are laid at 90 to the roof joists. The boards must be laid with the writing side
uppermost. Not only does this give a better key for the laminate, it also allows the resin to ow into the board joint to effectively glue the
boards together.
Start to lay the boards at the furthest edge from the drip. If the board is laid along a wall, an expansion gap of 25mm should be left. Align
the end of the board with the fascia, laying the boards from end to end. Trim the last board in the row ush with the fascia. Using the
off-cut (if greater than 400mm,) start to lay the next row of boards by tting the tongue rmly into the groove of the row already laid. The
boards are now staggered and bonded and will form a strong deck.
When two rows have been laid, the boards can be aligned to run straight, xing them as you go. Continue to lay each row in turn using the
off-cut from one row to start the next row. The last row is simply cut off in line with the fascia.

Gap is laid face up to allow

resin to reinforce the join

Firrings xed to a at
roof to aid run-off

Boards joins
are staggered

OSB3 Features:

2.4m X 0.6m X 18mm Tongue and Grooved boards.

Designed to minimise expansion and contraction.
Easy to handle & carry up ladders.
Doesnt need edge support between joists.
Doesnt require the joints to be bandaged.
Minimal waste.

25mm Expansion gap

Always ensure that
the joints between
the boards are fully
engaged

IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE DECK IS LAID CORRECTLY. A POORLY LAID DECK MAY RESULT IN POROSITY IN THE LAMINATE.

Fixing the deck to different substrates

Timber
When xing the OSB3 board to timber joists, the preferred method is with a compressed air or gas powered nail gun. This is the most
efcient way of xing the decking; it also minimises damage to the ceiling below. A 63mm (or longer) galvanised ring shank nail should be
used at 200mm centres, which equates to 4 nails across a 600mm board. The nails MUST be driven into a joist.
Some installers may wish to use screw guns. This is acceptable providing the screws have a minimum of 40mm penetration into the joist.
The boards can also be nailed using a hammer. This is obviously time consuming and WILL lead to internal damage of the ceiling. All nails
must be non-rusting (galvanised or sheradised).
Steel
Fixing to steel is easily achieved with the use of self-drilling/self-tapping screws of the appropriate length.
Strawboard
If the Strawboard or Stramit is in good condition (ie dry and intact) and you wish to x through it in to the joist, a 125mm screw at
200mm centres along each joist is sufcient. The Strawboard or Stramit may have been tted into a steel prole support. It is possible to
use a self-drilling/ self-tapping screw into the steel for xing the decking board.

Stage 2
GRP Edge Trims

The following pages include instructions for xing the most common types of GRP edge trims. For a comprehensive list of trim applications
see the Technical section of this manual.
Edge trims are manufactured in GRP. One side has a high adhesion nish (matt nish), the other side has a glossy nish, always bond to the
matt nish.
All trims must be xed with nails or staples to the decking board.
With the exception of the F300 Flat ashing and the D260 Angle llet, the trims must be bonded in place using the Polyurethane Adhesive.
Silicone sealant or general-purpose mastics are not suitable adhesives for the xing of trims.

Polyurethane Adhesive (PU)

PU adhesive is applied with a skeleton gun to the batten around the perimeter of the roof. A 30mm bead at 300mm centres is sufcient to
hold the trims in place. The trims should be rubbed into place to ensure good bonding.

Joining Trims
Trims are either nailed to the decking boards using a 13mm galvanised clout nail or stapled in place with a gas powered or compressed
air stapler. Hold the trim in place ensuring the face is vertical. Drive xings in at each end, then the middle and then at 200mm centres
thereafter.

Most Common Trim Types and Application Instructions:

A170/A200/A250- Drip Trim
The A type trim is a drip trim, tted to the lowest edge of the roof usually where the rainwater
ows into the gutter. Two support battens should be xed to the perimeter of the roof to
provide space for the gutter to t behind the trim, with the outer batten attached 10mm lower
than the inner batten to allow the trim to sit ush with the roof. Apply PU adhesive to the batten
in 30mm beads at 300mm centres, rub the trim into place and nail to the decking. Do not nail
through the front of the trim. If the pitch of the roof is only minimal, rainwater is likely to hold
behind the trim. A planning machine can be used to take 2mm off the deck to allow the trim
to lay ush with the board.
TRIM DETAILS: A170: This is designed for applications where it is not possible to use the larger
A200. A200: This is the standard size drip trim. A250: This drip trim is ideally suited for use
on warm roofs.
A170/200/250 Application diagrams:

Joist

NOTE: If the fall of the roof is only slight, the

end of the decking board should be planed
by 2mm before the battens are attached,to
allow the trim to
GRP
sit flush with the
laminate rest of the roof.

OSB 3 deck

A170/
200/250

PU adhesive
2 X Slate batten

10

Stage 2
GRP Edge Trims

B230/B260/B300- Raised Edge Trim

A single batten is xed level with the top edge of the deck. Apply 30mm beads of PU adhesive
to the batten every 300mm, rub the trim into place and nail through the top of the trim into
the decking. Do not nail through the front of the trim. If a ladder is likely to be leant against
a B type trim for regular access to the roof, the trim will need to be reinforced to avoid
deformation. The trim can either be doubled up by slotting a section of extra trim within
the section where the ladder will be used or it can be reinforced with an extra layer of GRP
laminate and then tissue to maintain a smooth nish. Alternately, a wooden batten can be
shaped and tted into the ridge of the trim to ensure that it remains rigid.
TRIM DETAILS: B230: The smallest size of raised edge trim tted to the edges of the roof to
contain and direct the ow of water. B260: The standard size raised edge trim. B300: Larger
raised edge trim for use on warm roofs.
B230/260/300 Application diagrams

GRP laminate
Bandage

OSB 3 deck
Joist

PU adhesive
Slate batten

C100/C100MT/C100L/C100LMT/C150/C150MT/C150L- Simulated Lead Flashing

The C trim is usually tted into a bed joint of the brickwork or a 35/50mm (depending on the
trim type) deep chase cut out with an angle grinder tted with a mortar chase disc. Apply
polyurethane adhesive to the back of the C trim every 300mm. Fit the trim into the slot and
press rmly back to the wall to overlap the D trim. Apply a clear silicone sealant along the length
of the trim into the slot to seal the trim in. A smooth nish can be obtained by wiping the sealant
with a moistened nger.
TRIM DETAILS: C100: Standard simulated lead ashing with 100mm vertical face and 35mm
wall penetration. Do not topcoat. C100MT: As C100 with self securing moisture trap. C100L
(Long leg): As C100 with 50mm wall penetration. C100LMT (Long leg with Moisture Trap): As
C100 with 50mm wall penetration and self securing moisture trap. C150: Simulated lead ashing
with 150mm vertical face and 35mm wall penetration. Do not topcoat. C150MT (Moisture Trap):
As C150 with an integral, self-securing moisture trap. C150L (Long leg): As C150 with 50mm
wall penetration.
C100/C100MT/C100L/C100LMT/C150/C150MT/ Application diagrams

Cross-section showing
35mm chase cut into
brickwork with angle grinder.

The C100MT
is tted with
PU adhesive
applied to the
back of the trim
and is sealed
into place with
silicone sealant.

11

Stage 2
GRP Edge Trims

D260/D300- Fillet Trim

The D trim is a llet trim for use against abutting walls. It will also provide expansion and
perimeter ventilation and is compatible with C2 and C3 universal corners. Place the D trim
against the vertical face and push down diagonally into the corner until the trim ts snugly.
Where the D trim needs to be joined it should be bonded with a strip polyurethane adhesive
and bandaged together.
TRIM DETAILS: D260: Angle llet trim with 135 and 70mm anges. D300: Angle llet trim with
175mm and 70mm anges.
D260/D300 Application Diagrams

The D trim
remains
unattached
behind the
C100.
25mm gap to allow for
expansion of the decking.

The D trim is pushed right

up to the wall before being
xed to the deck.

F300/600/900- Flat Sheeting

The F trim is a at ashing, mainly used at the intersection of a pitched roof and at roof often
found on dormers. The F trim should not be laminated over completely as it will crack. It is
nailed or stapled to the deck and bent up the roof slope. In this situation, the F trim also acts
as an expansion facility and must only be xed to the deck along the bottom edge. There are
many other applications for F trim including vertical details where laminating would be time
consuming, under the feet of air conditioning units to enable re-roong without disconnecting
and use on some parapet wall details etc. The trim should be nailed to the deck around
its edges and bandaged over any joins or nail penetrations. Any unlaminated trim can be
topcoated with the rest of the roof.
TRIM DETAILS: F300/600/900: Flat sheeting supplied in 300, 600 and 900mm widths in 20M
rolls.
F300/600/900 Application diagrams

Sarking felt overlaps

The rst run of tiles is
replaced over the F300
F300
Laminate is laid over
the the edge of the
F300

G180
G180 is used to allow for expansion on large roofs (over 50m2) it also acts as an integral gutter to aid
drainage. The decking should be cut to allow for an adequate gap in which to insert the trim and the
anges of the trim should be parallel with the decking. The trim should then be nailed to the decking.
If the trim edges are bandaged waterow into the gutter will be reduced. The boards should be
rebated to allow the trim to sit ush with the deck. The laminate should be applied over the trim.
TRIM DETAILS: G180: Flush installation expansion joint and gutter.

12

the F300.

Stage 2
GRP Edge Trims

G180 Application diagrams

Bandage
Trim nailed to
substrate under
laminate

G180

GRP
laminate

Joist

E280- Expansion Joint

E280 is used both to create expansion joints on large roofs (over 50m 2) and create rolls on any
ridge details. It is compatible with C5 closures. An adequate gap in the deck should be cut if
necessary, the trim should then be nailed to each end of the decking at 300mm centres. The join
over the nails should then be bandaged and the laminate can be applied over the trim. To bond
these trims together, or to cap with C5 closures, apply a thin strip of PU adhesive to the inside
edge of the overlapping trim and rub into place.
TRIM DETAILS: G180: Flush installation expansion joint and gutter. E280: Expansion joint and
ridge roll for pitched roofs.

E280- Application Diagrams

The trim is
incorporated into
the laminate.

C6 Closures
The C6 closure is used to close a run of E280 rolled joint trim. The closure should be
overlapped by 50mm and sealed by a line of PU adhesive. Nail to deck, bandage around edges
and apply topcoat layer over the top.

13

The join between the

trim and the decking is
bandaged.

Stage 3
Laminating

A195 Internal and External

The AT195 Internal and External trim is used wherever the laminate needs to cover an area
which continues perpendicular to another laminated surface. The AT195 Ext is supplied
with a high-adhesion nish on its outer fascia and should be used for capping applications.
The AT195 Int trim is supplied with a high adhesion nish on its outer fascia and should
be used for internal corners. The trim should be nailed at both edges if possible. Always
bandage over the join between where the nails penetrate the trim and the decking before
applying the laminate. These trims are supplied in 3 metre lengths as standard.
TRIM DETAILS: AT195 Ext: External angle trim. AT195 Int: Internal angle trim.

A195 Internal and External

Bandage

GRP laminate

AT 195 int
Decking

FOR FURTHER TECHNICAL APPLICATION GUIDANCE PLEASE SEE THE TECHNICAL SECTION OF THIS MANUAL.

Laminating the roof

Preparation
Roong resin
Roong resin is supplied in tins of 20kg (approximately 18.5 litres.) The mixing buckets are graduated in litres which will allow easy calculation of
the amount of catalyst needed depending on the ambient temperature. To remove the lid from the tin a 4-6 inch nail is required to bend back the
lugs.
It is very important to stir the resin before use, ensuring the styrene & wax that has settled at the bottom of the tin gets thoroughly mixed in.
Prepare enough tins of resin to complete the days laminating at this stage, as mistakes such as using unmixed resin are difcult to rectify later.
The resin to CSM ratio is 1.35kg of resin for every m of glass.
It is good practice to mix a small quantity resin (1 or 2 litres) to start with to laminate the corners and bandage the trims. This will give the best
indication of the curing time of the resin and conrm if the correct amount of catalyst has been added to the mix. Ideally, it is best to aim for
a curing time of between 20 to 30 minutes. FOR CATALYST ADDITION SEE THE CHART ON PAGE 18. Once all the detail work has been
laminated the resin can be mixed for the main body of the roof.
Chopped strand mat
Before the chopped strand mat is laid out, the deck must be clean and dry and all the trims xed in place. The mat has a cut edge and a
feathered edge. Always overlap the feathered edge on top of the cut edge.
The mat is usually best laid parallel to the drip trim. Start by rolling the
mat out, overlapping the trim by at least 50mm but not over the edge of
the trim. Leave the ends long at this stage. Roll out each 1m wide strip
Overlapping each time by at least 50mm right across the roof. The ends can
be cut off with a Stanley knife into the corner of the trim to leave a straight
and neat edge.

Techniques: If a laminate of GRP requires a perfect

nish, i.e. it is somewhere likely to be frequently overlooked

such as a balcony, join lines between CSM rolls can be
avoided by feathering the CSM. This is achieved by roughly
ripping a small strip off the cut end of the CSM. When this
is laid on top of another feathered roll, the join will be
seamless.

overlap (never less than 50mm) or cut short pieces of mat and overlap them
along the roof.
Decide on the best place to nish laminating the roof from. Roll the mat up
to the furthest point from the ladder. Leave the rolls on the roof where they

14

Stage 3
Laminating

have been laid out to avoid any mix up if there is a deviation in size or angle from
one length of mat to another.
Corners and joints
Cut 200mm squares of mat for each corner and 200mm strips of bandage for each
trim joint.

Laminating

Note:

Avoid spillages by masking off the

roof properly, a fine spray is caused when
using the consolidator roller, wind can carry
this a considerable distance. It is important to
ensure that this is considered before the resin
is used on the roof. When resin has cured,
there is no easy way of removing it from car
paintwork without also removing the paint
(see spillages in the troubleshooting section.)

Corners & bandaging

Lay a 200mm square piece of mat on the roof deck and wet out on both sides with
resin (see catalyst addition chart) using a 2 polyester roller. Place the mat on
to the face of the adjoining trims with the bottom edge on the radius of the trim.
Fold around the corner and fold over the top of the trim down on to the deck. It
will be easier to dress and feather if the mat is cut vertically from the top corner of the trim upwards. Using the 2 roller, 2 paint brush
and small consolidating roller, feather the corners in to place. Any joint in the trims should be bandaged using the same mix of resin, in a
similar fashion to the corners (Figure 1.) If any boards are not completely engaged these joins should be bandaged, even a small gap may
cause resin to leak through the boards which will lead to porosity in the laminate.
If any nails holding the trims are not going to be covered with laminate on the deck or corners they should be laminated with a small piece
of mat.
The deck of the roof can be laminated before the corners and bandages have cured.

Any other protrusions such

as pipes, skylights or other
potential weakspots should
also be laminated around/
over at this point.

Any joints between

trim lengths are
bandaged over.

Laying the main laminate

YOU MUST FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS TO GAIN THE CORRECT

RATIO OF RESIN TO GLASS.
Unroll 1m of previously cut mat along the lowest part of the roof and align so it
can be unrolled across the roof without running off-line. Carefully roll the mat
back.
To get a ratio of 3:1 one-third resin should be applied on the board and two
thirds resin on the mat dip the 7 polyester roller into the bucket of catalysed
base resin. Lift the roller out of the bucket and without letting the excess run
off, drop 3 rollers full onto the board and coat 1 square metre. This will ensure
that there is a ratio of one-third resin on the board.

Figure 1.

A polyester roller is
used to apply the
resin to the CSM.

Resin is applied to the

deck before the CSM is
laid on the roof.

Continue across the 1m (approximately 6 runs) and then roll the roller over the
whole area again to ensure good even coverage.
Wet out the next 1m of board in the same way, remembering to use one third

Note:

Figure 2.
After the CSM has wet out,
the consolidator roller is used
to expel air from the laminate
and ensure the CSM has been
saturated by the resin. No white
patches should be visible.
As the CSM absorbs
the resin, the laminate
becomes transparent.
Subsequent lengths of CSM
should overlap by 50mm.

Figure 3.

Unroll the mat on to the resin coated board . In strips of 7 (1 roller width) wet
out the mat by dropping 1 roller full in the middle of each 7 run, push the roller
away to the end of the 1 metre run, then pull back over the full 1 metre (gure
4.)

Never attempt to lay a roof in wet weather or when wet weather is

forecast.
If it starts to rain while you are laying a roof, the roof must be
covered and must not get wet, always keep a large visqueen sheet
on site to cover the roof. The visqueen will not bond to the curing
laminate
If rain is forecast while laying boards, the boards can be temporarily
sealed with a coating of catalysed resin. Always ensure that as much
of the roof is covered as possible, ensure that edges, or areas of
possible water ingress are covered.
If decking has become damp, do not attempt to lay laminate on
top.
Always ensure that the surface you are laying onto is completely
dry and free from debris before you start. A wet surface can lead to
delamination

15

Stage 3
Laminating

Premium cost
options:
Finished laminate
should be

Consolidator roller is used

transparent.

after allowing the resin to

break down the CSM binder
for a minute or two.
Roller is dipped into resin
and then applied to 1m
length of CSM, one roller
width at a time.

Deck is coated with resin.

Figure 4.
of the resin on the board and two thirds of resin on the mat. Roll out the mat over the next 1m of
wet out board and continue to roll out the resin as previously described.
Consolidating
Let the resin soak into the mat to break down the emulsion binder for 2 to 3 minutes. Using the
paddle roller and applying a little pressure, roll back and forth along the 2 edges and the end of the
wetted out mat, feathering them in as you go. Now roll the paddle roller over the whole of the wet
out mat, ensuring the paddle roller makes at least 2 passes over the whole area. In colder weather
the resin will be thicker and will take a little longer to wet out. When a laminate is correctly wetted
out it should be transparent, there should be no white or opaque areas. Take care near the edge of
the roof and in windy conditions as a ne spray will be emitted from the roller.

When a client species

a GRP roof there are
a number of different
options available for the
weight, colour and nish
of the roof. All of these
should be charged at a
premium.
- The GRP laminate
can be specied in two
weights: 450g/m2 and
600g/m2. 450g/m2 is
the standard weight for
most installations and
will withstand foot trafc.
600g/m2 should be
specied where the roof
will be subject to regular
heavy foot trafc such as
a walkway or balcony.
This would normally
be specied with an
aggregate non-slip nish.
- The roof can be nished
in any BS4800 colour.
- The roof can be nished
with a standard smooth
or two choices of non-slip
nish (see opposite page.)

Make regular close inspections of the laminate as it is consolidated, checking for pin holes and areas
short of resin. Pinholes in the laminate will lead to porosity and water penetration.
On all overlaps of the mat, pay extra attention to the feathering in as this will improve the overall
appearance of the nished roof.
Preparation for topcoating
Taking care and paying attention at this stage will produce a roof of superb appearance. Using a
sanding pad with a 40 grit sand paper, lightly sand the corners and trim bandages. Sand off any
unsightly bres, taking care not to sand too heavily on the corner itself as this may lead to holes
appearing. Cut any excess cured mat protruding beyond the trim with a sharp Stanley knife.

Techniques:

A num be r o f d i f fe rent f i n i shes can be

ach ieved us i ng s l a te g ranu l es. t hey
can ei t he r be sp r i nk l ed ove r t he top
o f cu r i ng topcoa t fo r t he appea rance
o f m i ne ra l fe l t. Al te rna t i ve l y, a f i ne
sp r i nk l i ng o f g ranu l es can be ro l l ed
i nto t he topcoa ted roo f fo r a co l ou red
non-s l i p f i n i sh.
Non-slip nish mixed with topcoat

16

Non-slip nish applied onto topcoat with

masked green detail

Stage 4
Topcoating and Finishing

Seal any abutments with walls using a clear silicone sealant. Fit any C100
simulated lead ashing before top coating and seal off with a clear silicone
sealant.

Topcoating the roof

The Topcoat is a resin and should be treated in the same way as the base resin.
It requires the addition of catalyst for it to cure.
Always try to apply the topcoat immediately after the laminate is semi-cured
(can be walked on, no stickiness) If this is not possible then ensure topcoating
is carried out within 24 hours to gain good bonding with the laminate. If the
topcoating is left longer than 24 hours then wash down the laminate with acetone
to gain a good cross-polymerisation of the topcoat to the laminate.

Note:

Avoid spi l lages by mask ing

of f the roof p rope rly, a f ine sp ray is
caused when using the consol idato r
rol le r, wind can ca r r y this a
conside rable distance. I t is impo r tant
to ensu re that this is conside red
befo re the resin is used on the roof.
When resin has cu red, the re is no easy
way of removing it f rom ca r paint wo rk
without also removing the paint (see
the t roubleshoot ing sect ion.)

Remove the lid and stir the topcoat well before use. Ensure the styrene and wax at the bottom of the tin is fully mixed in. Pour out into
the mixing buckets enough topcoat to cover the perimeter of the roof (including the edge trims.) Use a 2 Polyester roller to coat the
trims. A roller will get a better and more even nish than a paintbrush. Roll the topcoat along the face of the trim. Hold the roller at an
angle to the bottom of the trim to cover half of the radius return on the front of the trim. To protect the fascia from topcoat, hold a piece
of ashing trim against it as you topcoat the radius on the underside of the trim.
Calculate how much topcoat you will need to use to cover the main body of the roof. (See material estimator in the Commercial Manual.)
Add the required amount of catalyst and stir well.
Using the 7 polyester roller, cover the remaining laminate with just enough topcoat for the bre pattern to be visible. Do not coat the
roof too thickly or the topcoat will crack. If a coloured topcoat is needed rather than the standard cool grey or dark admiralty grey, a
colour pigment will need to be added to a clear topcoat. A 20 kg tin of topcoat requires 2 kg of colour pigment. It is essential to mix the
pigment thoroughly into the topcoat to avoid patchiness and uneven colour.

Cleaning Tools and Equipment

Buckets can be re-used for many jobs. When each mix is nished with, coat the inside of the bucket. When the resin has cured after
approximately 30 minutes it can be peeled out, leaving the bucket like new and ready for the next job.
Paintbrushes can be dropped into a re-sealable container of acetone and left for the next job. Use only paintbrushes that have unpainted
or uncoated handles, as the coatings will come off and contaminate the resin. Polyester rollers have sleeves that are removable. It is too
time consuming to clean the roller sleeves. Unscrew the nut with pliers and drop the used sleeve into the bucket of used resin.
Either use disposable latex gloves when handling catalysts or resins or clean hands with hand cleaner. Do not clean hands with acetone.
wipes are also a useful addition to your toolkit. As well as cleaning hands they are good for removing resin from windows and fascias.

17

Stages 3 & 4
Catalyst Addition

C ATA LY S T U S A G E C H A R T
Deck/Resin temp

29-35oC

21-28oC

13-20oC

6-12oC

Percentage
Catalyst

1% Catalyst

2% Catalyst

3% Catalyst

4% Catalyst

Table of Percentages in Millilitres,

Per Weight of Resin Used
Amount of
Resin
1 Kilo
2 Kilo
3 Kilo
4 Kilo
5 Kilo
6 Kilo
7 Kilo
8 Kilo
9 Kilo
10 Kilo
11 K i l o
12 Kilo
13 Kilo
14 Kilo
15 Kilo
16 Kilo
17 Kilo
18 Kilo
19 Kilo
20 Kilo

Catalyst Usage

10 ml
20 ml
30 ml
40 ml
50 ml
60 ml
70 ml
80 ml
90 ml
100 ml
110 ml
120 ml
130 ml
140 ml
150 ml
160 ml
170 ml
180 ml
190 ml
200 ml

20 ml
40 ml
60 ml
80 ml
100 ml
120 ml
140 ml
160 ml
180 ml
200 ml
220 ml
240 ml
260 ml
280 ml
300 ml
320 ml
340 ml
360 ml
380 ml
400 ml

30 ml
60 ml
90 ml
120 ml
150 ml
180 ml
210 ml
240 ml
270 ml
300 ml
330 ml
360 ml
390 ml
420 ml
450 ml
480 ml
510 ml
540 ml
570 ml
600 ml

40 ml
80 ml
120 ml
160 ml
200 ml
240 ml
280 ml
320 ml
360 ml
400 ml
440 ml
480 ml
520 ml
580 ml
600 ml
640 ml
680 ml
720 ml
760 ml
800 ml

Catalyst Addition
There are a number of important rules of thumb to follow when deciding how much catalyst to add:
Never use less than 1% even in the summer, just mix less resin at a time.
Never use more than 4%, the gel time will not reduce any further beyond 4%.
Never underestimate the effect of temperature. Resins will not cure at or below freezing and will always cure much quicker in direct
sunlight.
When topcoating late in the day, add more catalyst to allow for the lack of sunlight.
In Winter use fast catalyst, in Summer use standard catalyst, in very hot conditions use LPT (Long Process Time) catalyst.
Remember: Any catalysed resin left in the bucket will exotherm. Heat is generated as the resin cures, so it should be kept well away from
other stored materials. Water can be poured over the resin to suppress the heat gain.
Always mix the catalyst into the resin thoroughly before using the resin (i.e. a good couple of minutes for a 10 litre bucket.) Failure to
do this can result in 'streaking' on the laminate, where streaks of uncured resin will remain visible and ultimately lead to a failure in the
laminate.
Fast cures can result in an inadequate bond.

18

Materials
Material Estimation

When estimating the amount of materials needed for a roof, there are a number of factors that should be taken into consideration. Firstly,
calculate the total area of the roof in square metres and always allow an extra 10% for the main materials to account for wastage or
unforseen problems. The values given below are only an estimate and will depend on the detail of the roof surface. The quantities for
decking board are based on an exact calculation of the area of coverage of each board, in practice, this should be considered a conservative
estimate.

Materials estimation chart

Roof
Size
(M2)

Resin
Required

Topcoat
required

CSM required
(Rolls of approx.
30kg)

kg

20 kg

kg

cans

20 kg

kg

cans

Rolls

Bandage
required
1 roll =
60m

(30kg)

Decking
boards
(8X2)
Values
based
on area
only

Rollers

Ancillaries required
C-rollers

Brushes

(may

Acetone

Buckets

(Litres)

Catalyst
(5L @ 4%

need diff.

usage)

sizes)

7.5

1/2

2.5

1/4

2.5

1/4

10

15

1/4

1/4

15

22.5

1 1/2

7.5

1/2

7.5

1/3

11

20

30

1 1/2

10

1/2

10

1/3

14

25

37.5

12.5

3/4

12.5

1/2

18

30

45

2 1/2

15

3/4

15

1/2

21

35

52.5

17.5

17.5

2/3

25

40

60

20

20

2/3

28

45

67.5

3 1/2

22.5

1 1/4

22.5

3/4

32

50

75

25

1 1/4

25

3/4

35

55

82.5

4 1/2

27.5

1 1/2

27.5

39

60

90

4 1/2

30

1 1/2

30

42

65

97.5

32.5

1 3/4

32.5

1 1/4

46

70

105

5 1/2

35

1 3/4

35

1 1/4

49

75

112.5

37.5

37.5

1 1/3

53

5-10

80

120

40

40

1 1/3

56

5-10

85

127.5

6 1/2

42.5

2 1/4

42.5

1 1/2

60

5-10

90

135

45

2 1/4

45

1 1/2

63

5-10

95

142.5

7 1/2

47.5

2 1/2

47.5

1 2/3

66

5-10

100

150

7 1/2

50

2 1/2

50

1 2/3

69

5-10

Notes
Before starting any roof always calulate the area of the roof and take into account the complexity of the job before choosing your
materials.
Always ensure that you plan ahead to have enough materials to complete the job.
Always allow extra time and materials for any detail.
Many of the ancillaries are dependant on the number of people working on the roof; increase them accordingly.

19

General Advice When Laying a GRP Roof

Repairing a GRP roof
If the roof surface becomes damaged by impact or has to be cut for any reason it can be easily repaired using the following procedure:
1. Clean off the damaged area with solvent and abrade the GRP surface with a hand grinder for a distance of 100mm from the damaged
area or edge to be joined.
2. Cut the 450/600gm2 glass to the correct size to cover the affected area and mix sufcient resin with catalyst as previously described.
3. Brush resin onto the area to be laminated at the rate of 1 kilo per square metre.
Place the glass over the area, wet out the glass with resin at the rate of 0.5 kilos per square metre. Stipple well with the brush or use a
paddle wheel roller for larger areas.
4. Ensure that the laminate is free from air and completely consolidated and allow to cure.
5. Mix the Topcoat with catalyst as previously described and apply with a brush at the rate of 0.5 kilos per square metre.
6. Allow to cure.
This procedure will ensure that the patch or joining piece applied will bond to the original laminate and form a weatherproof patch over the
damaged or cut laminate.

Advice when using GRP during Winter months

Always check the local weather forecast (See Commercial Manual for details on how to obtain an accurate forecast.)
During the Winter, avoid topcoating a roof after 2-3pm unless it is a clear bright day and not too cold. The heat from the sun
contributes a great deal towards the curing of the laminate during colder months. After the sun has set, it is unlikely that the topcoat
will cure over night. If left uncured, the topcoat may cure with debris and leaves stuck to the surface, or with an undesirable finish if it
rains.
Ensure that the surface temperature of the boards is checked before laying the resin or topcoat.
Ensure that the resin is warmed before use if the ambient temperature is below 10C.
Always ensure that the resin remains indoors the night before it is used.
Do not use resin or topcoat in temperatures below 5C.
If it begins to rain, cover the roof with a visqueen sheet.
If you are unable to laminate over a prepared deck, then coat the decking with catalysed resin and cover any exposed edges. This will
seal the deck and prevent moisture uptake until the laminate can be applied. Always cover the edges of the roof and uncoated boards
with a polyethylene sheet.
Always ensure the deck or substrate to be laid onto is completely dry before laying the laminate. Sweep off any excess water and
mop up the excess with dry cloths before allowing the roof to dry naturally. Wiping the surface with acetone can speed up this process.
Do not start to lay a roof if a period of rain is forecast.

Advice when using GRP during Summer months

Always check the local weather forecast (See Commercial Manual for details on how to get an accurate forecast online and useful
telephone numbers.)
Do not use roofing resin or topcoat in temperatures above 35 oC.
Always mix smaller batches of resin then you normally would to give adequate time to apply it before it starts to catalyse.
Always use LPT catalyst in hotter weather if the resin starts to cure too quickly.
Always apply the laminate in the shortest runs possible across a roof. The shorter the length of laminate, the less likely it is that the
resin will catalyse before it can be consolidated into the laminate.
Use a temperature sensore to measure the surface temperature of the laminate before applying the topcoat. If topcoat is applied to
surfaces above 50oC, the wax component of the topcoat will melt and the topcoat will remain tacky to the touch, this will usually mean
that any loose debris will stick to the roof and the colour of the topcoat will also be impaired.
If possible, topcoat the roof out of direct sunlight or wait until later in the day before applying it, it may mean that the roof will take
you longer but it will save you time spent returning to the roof to re-topcoat it at a later date.

Safe working practices

It is always the installer's responsibility to ensure safe working practices for themselves and their employees and always pay attention
to the risks for other members of the public that may be nearby at the time. The following notes are designed to help you ensure a
safe working environment, but they are by no means comprehensive and any installers should always assess any potential risks when
working on a contract and make sufficient means to address them. In addition to these notes, the installer should also be aware of the
health and safety information that applies to most materials (see Health and Safety Manual.)

20

Troubleshooting Guide
Problems that Occur While Laying the Roof

1) Failure of resin to cure/harden

Decription of problem
Laminate is still wet and resin is uncured with no other symptoms.

Possible cause

Remedial action

Resin may have been inadequately mixed.

Unsuitable catalyst may have been used (e.g. LPT or summer catalyst
used in winter.)
Not enough catalyst may have been used for the temperature.

Catalyse another batch of resin, ensuring that you use the correct
catalyst. Always add extra catalyst (doubling up if necessary) and roll
vigorously into the resin.
Larger laminates or laminates that have been left for a long time
or contaminated by dirt, debris or water etc. will need replacing
completely.
Always check the ambient temperature before mixing batches of resin
and consult the catalyst chart for guidance if unsure.

2) Resin cures too fast

Description of problem
Resin cures before it can be properly applied and consolidated into the CSM.

Possible cause

Remedial action

Unsuitable catalyst may have been used (e.g. Winter catalyst used in
Summer.)
Weather may be too hot for Summer catalyst.

If the ambient temperature is very hot or there is a lot of direct

sunlight, use LPT (Long Process Time) catalyst.
Reduce the size of the batches mixed.
Always ensure that you are laying the shortest possible runs across a
roof to give you adequate time to properly consolidate the laminate.

3) It begins to rain while laminating/topcoating

Description of problem
Roof has not yet cured and it begins to rain.

Possible cause

Remedial action

N/A

STOP! Cover the roof with a non-woven polyethylene sheet and try to
ensure that non of the laminate gets any moisture onto it.
Always ensure that you check the local weather forecast before you
start a roof.
Always have enough polyethylene sheets with you to cover the roof.
Resin contaminated with water will not cure and require a re-skin (see
below.)

4) Water contamination (white staining of laminate)

Description of problem
Water contaminated resin usually appears as a white staining or milkyness. The resin will not fully cure.

Possible cause

Remedial action

Resin has been contaminated by water.

Any white areas should be laminated over fully with a 450g/m2

laminate.

5) Streaky laminate/topcoat
Description of problem
Laminate has partially cured, but has streaks of wet resin or lighter/darker colours running through it.

21

Troubleshooting Guide
Problems that Occur While Laying the Roof

Potential cause

Remedial action

Resin may have been inadequately mixed.

Pigment may not have been mixed in thoroughly.
May be contaminated by water.

Always ensure that topcoat is applied thinly (0.5mm.) This makes

it possible to reapply another layer of either properly catalysed or
throughly mixed, pigmented topcoat. If using pigment or catalyst, add
more to the second coat.

6) Failure of topcoat to cure

Description of problem
Topcoat is still wet and has not cured.

Potential cause

Remedial action

Topcoat has been used with unsuitable catalyst (i.e. Summer catalyst
in winter.)
Topcoat has not been sufciently mixed or not enough catalyst has
been mixed in.
Topcoat might be contaminated by water.

After water has evaporated apply another very thin layer of topcoat,
ensuring that it is vigorously and thoroughly rolled in to the uncured
layer.
Always add more catalyst to the second batch, up to double if
necessary.

7) Entrapment of debris in laminate

Description of problem
Debris entrapped in the laminate, possibly poking through the laminate, holes in laminate.

Potential cause

Remedial action

N/A

This is usually seen while consolidating. The debris needs to be

removed and patched over. This can be done while the laminate is still
wet and then patched up with a new section of laminate.
When the laminate has cured, the surface can be lightly rubbed with
a coarse sand-paper. This will highlight any imperfections. The affected
area must then be pactched with a new laminate.

8) Spillages
Description of problem
Spillage/resin spray.

Potential cause

Remedial action

N/A

Resins stick by mechanical adhesion; they soak into a surface and

cure. It is essential to clean the resin off the surface before it cures.
The solvent for uncured resin is acetone. This can be used to remove
resin from most surfaces including clothing (WARNING: acetone is
extremely ammable.)
If used to clean paintwork or coloured fabrics it may discolour or
remove paint or dye from the surface.
Resins will generally not adhere to anything that has a shiny surface.
If resin has cured onto a surface such as glass, metal or paintwork, it
may be icked off using a sharp edge or by vigorously rubbing with a
coarse cloth. The cleaned surface may then be buffed with wax polish
or a cutting compound. With larger spillages (e.g. driveways or walls,)
a hot pressure washer is the best choice, but high pressures will be
required and strong detergents are usually necessary.
Preventative measures are essential to avoid spillages.
Always mask off adjacent areas where ne spray droplets, caused by
the consolidator roller, may fall. Polythene sheeting is the best material
for masking.

22

Troubleshooting Guide
Problems that Occur After the Roof Has Been Laid
1) Delamination of the laminate from the boards
Description of problem
This will not cause the roof to leak.
Potential cause

Remedial action

This is caused by poor adhesion of the laminate to the boards and is

more likely to happen with plywood rather than OSB.

The laminate can be completely removed and reapplied after priming

the boards with G4 (to ensure no further delamination occurs.)

2) Delamination of topcoat
Description of problem
This will not cause the roof to leak, but will spoil its appearance.
Possible cause

Remedial action

Application of the topcoat to a contaminated surface (usually wet).

Application of the topcoat to a hot laminate may also cause this to
happen.
Whenever the adhesion of the topcoat is poor, some topcoat
delamination may occur.

The topcoat cannot just be reapplied on top of existing topcoat.

Generally, the best solution is to clean and abrade the surface,
removing all of the aking top coat, then re-laminate the entire roof
surface and reapply the top coat.

3) Cracking of the topcoat

Description of problem
Cracks may appear as ne lines on the substrate. This will not cause
the roof to leak.

Potential cause

Remedial action

This is usually caused by the topcoat being applied too thickly, topcoat
should never be applied thicker then 0.5mm.

The only solution is to relaminate over the cracked area after careful
surface preparation.

4) Cracking of laminate
Description of problem
Could cause the roof to fail if cracking is severe enough.

Possible cause

Remedial action

The roof is over 50m2 and an expansion joint has not been incorporated
into the roof.

Grind down and laminate over the crack with two layers of 450g/m 2
CSM.
It may be necessary to cut out a section and laminate in an expansion
joint at 50m2 intervals.
Always check the board xings, these may need to be re-xed if they
have been pulled away from the joists.

5) Ponding/standing water
Description of problem
A common problem and one which will not affect the performance of the roof but can be unsightly when a roof is overlooked, or, worse still, if it
occurs on a balcony.

23

Troubleshooting Guide
Problems that Occur After the Roof Has Been Laid

Possible cause

Remedial action

The roof has been installed with an inadequate fall.

The decking has not been rebated where A-trims have been attached,
causing a lip which holds water back.

A lled resin concrete can be applied to the area where the water
ponds. This must then be laminated over to ensure that there is no
surface cracking.
While this will displace the water, the best solution is to ensure that
the original quotation conrms that the roof may be subject to ponding,
and unless specied, it is difcult to guarantee that this will not occur.

6) Board swelling ('tile' outline on the roof)

Description of problem
This will cause a tile effect to appear on the roof as the outlines of the boards appear as ridges on the roofs surface. The roof is unlikely to leak,
but in very bad cases, some cracking may occur at the joints.

Possible cause

Remedial action

This is caused by moisture uptake in the boards. It may be due to

excessive condensation, but is more likely to be a result of some porosity
in the laminate, allowing water to seep into the boards.
The problem is made worse by poor board xing, allowing the boards
to move and rise up off the roof timbers.
Insufcient expansion gaps have been left between the boards if over
50m2.
May cause ponding (see above.)

The roof must be cleaned and all of the ridges ground down.
New expansion joints must be tted to the roof using G180 trims and
the entire roof surface must be relaminated.
In very bad cases, it may be necessary to x new boards over the
existing roof and relaminate, ensuring adequate provision for board
expansion with expansion joints on larger roofs.

7) Tacky topcoat
Description of problem
Topcoat has suitable catalyst and has been adequately mixed but is still tacky. This problem usually manifests itself in very hot conditions.
Possible cause

Remedial action

This is usually caused by application of the top coat in hot, sunny

conditions, so that the waxy surface layer cannot properly form.

Clean down with acetone and re-apply in cooler conditions.

Tacky topcoat usually occurs at approximately 55oC and this is usually
caused by very hot conditions and direct sunlight.

8) Colour fade of topcoat

Description of problem
This can take several years to appear and the problem may be worse if the top coat was tacky when rst laid.

Possible cause

Remedial action

This is caused by erosion of the topcoat and is more likely to occur

with darker colours.
The effect of the colour returning when the surface is wet with rain is
often reported.

It may be possible to clean down, abrade and re-topcoat the roof,

but it is difcult to guarantee that no topcoat delamination will occur
thereafter. It is possible to use a PU varnish to restore the colour, but
this may have to be reapplied after 2-3 years.
The only way to guarantee the longevity of the colour is to re-skin the
roof with another laminate.
This is also a method for refurbishing old, damaged or well-worn roofs
that may have been subjected to heavy foot trafc.
The roof needs to be completely cleaned down and wiped with acetone.
G4 primer should then be applied on top of the laminate and the topcoat
can be applied on top of this.

24