and have a little patience, but as always if you have any questions, just ask over in the Forum.

Propping the Bike Up

If only one wheel is to be removed, then the centerstand is just about all that is needed to prop the
bike up. One of the many convenient features of the Ninja 500R is the fact that it comes with a
centerstand. If only the rear wheel is to be removed, then the centerstand will prop the bike up
sufficiently. (On Centerstand, the front wheel touches the ground and the rear wheel is propped
off the ground). If only the front wheel is to be removed, then the centerstand will still get the job
done: put the bike on centerstand and then put some weights on the passenger seat to prop the
front wheel off the ground.

If, however, both the front and the rear wheel are to be removed, then a jack or harness
must be used, in addition to the centerstand. In his tutorial belowdegree right hand turn at
an intersection, downshift to the correct gear, usually second while slowing for the corner.
This will allow for a seamless corner exit.

Shifting Techniques
Note this list is not complete and this page is a work in progress. Please
feel free to add your suggestions.

Ok, so you've started riding but are not shifting as fast or smoothly as you feel you could. Here's
some tips to help you improve your shifting technique.

Preload the shift lever. Apply gentle upward pressure on the shift lever before you activate
the clutch. This should be enough pressure to cause the transmission to instantly pop into
the next gear when the clutch is released but no so much pressure as to force a shift
without clutch activation.

Only pull in the clutch lever enough have the transmission slip into the next gear. There is
no need to pull in the lever all the way to the grip.

The return spring will want to return the shift lever to the center position so the shifter can
reset itself. Make sure your boots resting position does not interfere with this or the shifter
will not reset between shifts and you will then have problems shifting to the next gear.
This is a common cause of shifting problems with new riders. Note you can adjust the
shift lever position with tools to suit your foot, footwear and position on the bike.

Train your fingers and brain to know exactly where the friction/engagement point is for
your clutch. This will help you when you need to slip the clutch during slow speed
maneuvers and starting off from a stop. It will also help during shifting. There is no need
to pull the clutch lever all the way into the handle bar when upshifting. This just wastes
time and effort. Just pull it enough to allow the preloaded shifter to slip the transmission
into the next gear. With practice try and reduce the amount of time the clutch is
disengaged during a shift. Smooth shifts take practice but reduce the strain on the drive
train as well as you passenger if you have one.

Back off the throttle a ~1/8 turn during up-shifts but only during the 1/4 second the clutch
is pulled. The amount that is appropriate will vary with your speed of acceleration and
shifting point and will take practice to perfect. Smoothness is the key here.

Down shifting is an important skill and harder to master than up-shifting. Blip the throttle
slightly during the momentary clutch disengagement. The higher engine rpm will smooth
the engine downshift. Don't downshift mid corner as the rear wheel braking could cause
the bike to slide out on you and cause a crash. Instead downshift when slowing for the
corner. You will then be in the right gear for a speedy corner exit. Start to gently and
smoothly roll on power just after passing the apex of the turn. Applying power to the rear
wheel will help the bike stand up from a lean, too much power though will cause the rear
wheel to slide out, so be careful. Throttle transitions should be smooth and gentle in a
corner.

Clicking down is the act of clicking the transmission down through the gears while the
motorcycle is in motion and the clutch is pulled. The clutch is not released immediately
after the shift to a lower gear as it is in downshifting. Clicking a sequential motorcycle
transmission down through the gears is easier when the rear wheel is spinning than when
the bike is stopped. Also it avoids the two foot shuffle at a stop sign - when you shift from
the ready position (right foot on the brake, left foot supporting the bike) to the right foot
down position and then back to the ready position. In situations where the rider is coming
to a stop and but wants to be in first gear to start again, say approaching a stop sign,
clicking down is more appropriate than downshifting. It's faster and less distracting to the
braking rider than downshifting and saves unnecessary wear and tear on the engine and
clutch. Remember you can control your rate of deceleration much better and slow much
faster with the brakes than you can downshifting. Downshifting is for when you are
slowing but not stopping such as slowing for a turn or wish to be in a lower gear to
accelerate more quickly.

Adjust the clutch cable tension so there is no tension on the cable with the lever released,
but not too much slack either. Use the thumb screw next to the clutch lever for this. Also
adjust the lever position with the rotary dial on the lever to suit your preferences.

How to Bump Start a Motorcycle

This article was originally published by Cheap Cycle Parts

Lets get this out of the way first: You will have to bump start a motorcycle at some point in life.
Ignitions get left on, batteries go deadit happens, and were no one to judge.
But knowing how to properly bump start a motorcycle eludes far too many riders. So heres a
quick rundown of what to do (and what not to do):
1. First make sure your bike is ready to start and ride, as it would be if you could start it normally.
That means checking the choke, kill switch, ignition, side stand, etc If any of these things are
set to off, youre just wasting energy.
2. Next, find a slope or gently graded hill that will allow the bike to gain momentum quickly.
Make sure the path is clear so once the bike starts, youll have room to navigate safely.
3. Put your bike in second or third gear (second gear works best for most bikes). First gear is
usually geared too low and will result in abrupt locking up of the rear tire and, even worse, the
possibility of a dropped bike. No one wants that.
4. Position yourself next to the bike on the left side and begin rolling the bike down the slope.
Once its rolling and steady, jump on the bike. (Obviously, if you have a friend, they can be the
one to get the bike rolling while youre already on it).
5. As soon as your weight hits the seat and loads the rear tire, release the clutch smoothly but
quickly. If you were already on the bike when you started rolling, simply stand up out of the
saddle and release the clutch while letting your weight drop back onto the bike seat.
6. The bike should fire right up. Engage the clutch and smoothly apply some throttle to allow the
bike to warm up. If the bump start was unsuccessful, repeat steps 1-5.
So there you go. Bump starting a motorcycle is an essential part of any motorcyclist knowledge
base. It might take some practice runs (dirt bikes are great learner tools for this procedure), but
once you know what youre doing, a dead battery will likely never be the reason your ride has to
end.

Tires: An Introduction
Read this excellent article.

Radials or Bias Ply?

In short, radial tires are superior to bias ply tires. Cross or bias ply tires have a much stiffer side
wall than radial tires which can make them more rugged off road but radials have an advantage
on pavement. Because of a more flexible side wall, radials offer a softer ride, and also a larger
contact patch. This provides slightly improved grip compared to a bias ply tire of the same size
and rubber compound. Because of the longer contact patch of radials they may feel more stable
than bias ply tires. Radial tires also have the advantage of running cooler at speed and usually
have a higher top speed rating. Cross ply tires can gain up to 2 inches of circumference on a
motorcycle, at high speed due to centrifugal forces, radial tires, because of their different
construction, do not expand.
Radial vs Bias Ply Tires
Do not mix bias ply and radial tires on the same motorcycle unless it is with the approval of
the motorcycle or tire manufacturer.
Stock from the factory the 500 came with bias play tires and until very recently the only tires
available for bikes in this class were bias ply designs. Recently however both Michelin (Pilot
Street) and Bridgestone (Battlax S20 Evo) have introduced radial tire designs for motorcycles in
the 250cc to 500cc range.

Dual Compound Tires

Dual compound tires use softer and harder rubber in different locations on the tread surface.
Softer rubber compound is used on the tread that contacts the road surface on either side of the
tire when the bike is leaned over in a curve and needs additional traction. Longer lasting and
harder rubber compound is used in the center section of tread, the part the bike runs on when
upright. Since most of us spend the majority of our riding time riding in a straight line this
increases the tire life drastically without reducing and sometimes even increasing cornering grip
compared to single compound tires. Although initially more expensive, dual compound tires
usually last much longer, wear more evenly, and have superior performance which can make

them a better value in the long run.

Tire Pressure
Tire pressure is critically important on a motorcycle. A difference as little as 1-2psi can be felt in
handling response. The tire pressure figure on the sidewall is the MAX pressure the tire will
withstand, NOT the recommended running pressure. Check your tire manufacturer's web site for
recommended tire pressures.
Default recommended tire pressures:

Ninja/GPZ 500 (1994+) with 17 inch wheels is 32/36 psi

EX-500 (1987-1994) with 16 inch wheels is 28/32 psi

Tire Categories
Motorcycle tires are separated into four basic categories. Some tire models may attempt to bridge
two categories with characteristics that belong to both such as sport/track tires.

Track tires - Track tires are the most grippy option but wear very quickly and usually
need to be pre heated before use with tire warmers. They have a narrow operating
temperature range. They usually do not have treads so do not work in the rain. Great for
the track but impractical for street use.

Sport tires - have a wider useable temperature range than track tires. Tires in this
category use soft rubber compounds and less tread to attain excellent dry grip. On the
downside they have a shorter life because of the softer rubber and less wet grip due to less
tread.

Sport touring tires - provide a balance of dry grip with durability/higher mileage and wet
performance. They use a harder rubber compound than sport tires with a more aggressive
tread. The best choice for general street use but slightly less dry grip than sport tires. Most
tires made for the 500 are in this category.

Cruiser tires - tires produced for long tread life and reflect cruiser motorcycle ascetics.
By comparison the least dry grip compared to other tire categories.

What about tire sizes?

The stock tires where bias play, Bridgestone Exedras. These are no longer manufactured.
On 1st generation bikes (1987-1993), the stock tires are 100/90-16 front, 120/90-16 rear
On 2nd generation bikes (1994-2009), the stock tires are 110/70-17 front, 130/70-17 rear
3.5 inch x 17 inch rear rim
3.0 inch x 17 inch front rim
It is recommended riders stick with stock tire sizes for best performance, with the following
caveat. Some newer designed radial tires like the Michelin Pilot Street and Bridgestone S20
Evo manufacture a 140/70-17 sized rear tire designed to optimally fit the 3.5 inch wide rim
size of the second generation 500. This does not mean every model 140/70-17 rear tire will
optimally fit the 3.5 inch rim however. It is recommended riders stick with stock sized tires
unless otherwise indicated by the tire manufacturer.

What do those numbers mean?

The numbers in a tire size refer to the width of the tire (in millimeters), the depth over the width
(percentage), and the wheel size, in inches.

Online Calculator shows differences in fender clearance and speedometer accuracy with different
front tire sizes. Note the first tire size entered in the box is the base for comparison, it should
always be the stock tire size (eg. 110/70-17 for generation 2 bike)

Tire size, does it have any effect?

Sport Rider Magazine Article - Does Size Matter?

In summary stick with stock tire sizes and tire manufacturer fitting recommendations for
the most predictable handling.
Wider is better, right? It is not that simple. Motorcycle tires have round treads where as cars have
flat treads. Because of this a tire wider than the size specified for the rim, will curve around to
meet the rim edges, further rounding the profile of the tire (pinching), without making it
noticeably wider or increasing the contact patch.
A wider or narrower tire changes the profile or shape of the tire and this will affect how the bike
will feel to the rider. The profile of a tire, it's cross sectional shape, has a great deal of influence
on how a motorcycle handles. A tire with a triangular profile, one with a narrow center section
and relatively flat cornering patches on either side, tends to flop quickly into a turn but then
reacts with excellent traction and stability once it's leaned onto its side. A rounder tire exhibits
more predictable, neutral steering habits from straight up to full lean but at the expense of a bit of
traction at the cornering limits. A tire that's flatter in the middle gives slower steering while
straight up and down but quicker, crisper response when leaned over. Some recent tires are more
mushroom-shaped; these depend on the deflection of the tire carcass to keep the patch on the
ground in heavy cornering. There are various theories of tire shape and profile at work, even in
very competitive production racing tires. The main message is that there is no right or wrong
profile, just different trade-offs in response and steering effort.
Be sure to check tire fitting advice with respect to motorcycle model and/or rim size on the tire
manufacturer's web site.
A 140 rear tire will fit the second generation Ninja 500. With bias play tires it is recommended to
stick with a 130 on the rear. A 140 bias play tire will not noticeably increase the contact patch
size or make the rear tire appear visually wider. A note on radials, Michelin recommend both the
130 and 140 radial Street Pilot on their website, for the rear rim of the Ninja 250, which is
identical in width to the rear rim of the Ninja 500. Bridgestone only manufacture a 140 width rear
tire for the 3.5 inch rim of the 500 in with their new S20 Evo radial tire. It should be noted radials
fit differently than bias ply tires so a 140 radial may work better than a 140 bias ply on the Ninja
500. Clearance issues may occur with fitting rear tires larger than 140 on the stock rear rim.
A larger front tire is not recommended as any change in tire circumference will effect front fender
clearance, which is very close, as well as the accuracy of the speedometer. A wider front tire may
also slow turn in.

I need to get my tires changed!

It is generally cheaper to remove the wheels and take them to a dealer for a tire change than to
take the entire bike. It is even cheaper to mount the tires on the rims yourself.

Why Remove the Wheels?

The most common reason for wheel removal is to get a tire change. Most people who do any
work on their bike opt to have the tires mounted and balanced professionally, but are willing to
remove the wheels themselves to save a little money. Where I live, it costs about $60 per wheel to
have the tires changed if you make the shop remove and reinstall the wheels in addition to
mounting/balancing tires, but it's only about $25 per wheel to have the tires mounted/balanced if I
remove and reinstall the wheels myself.
It is also necessary to remove the rear wheel in order to install a new rear sprocket. Adjusting the
chain tension requires one to go through about half the steps for removing the rear wheel, so there
is some overlap of knowledge there too.
Removing the front wheel is a lot easier than removing the rear wheel, because with the rear
wheel you have to deal with the chain when removing the wheel, and after reinstalling the wheel
the chain tension must be adjusted and the wheel must be aligned (using FOG's 'String Thing'
method). That said, pinch bolts can be frustrating if you're tired or out of it, so it helps to be fresh
, xDaveManx wraps some tie downs around his handlebars, and then runs them over the rafters in
the shed where he works on his bike. This works well for him, and is satisfactory if your work
area has rafters. If your work area does not have rafters, then the easiest method for lifting the
front wheel will be to use a jack. I use the 2-ton jack I got for my car. Remove the chin fairing off
the bike, put some cardboard or plywood over the jack to help distribute the load, position the
jack under the oil pan, and raise the bike up off of both wheels.

Front Wheel Removal

Original version by xDaveManx.

- 1 or 2 12mm allen wrenches or sockets

- 6mm allen wrench or socket
- 10mm socket or open end wrench
- Rags
- Lift (I used tie-down straps and soft extensions)

Now you have to get your bike to a place that you can
work on it. I had a yard barn that was about a foot off the
ground. I fashioned a small ramp from some two-byeights and a piece of scrap OSB board that worked
nicely. If you don't have a building, you can put it in a
basement, or even under your porch steps, so long as you
have a support system above it to mount the straps, or an
alternative means of lifting the front wheel off the
ground.
Once in the building, I put the bike on it's center stand. I
mounted two hooks for a porch swing into the two-byfour rafters above the bike. You can find them at any
hardware store, or even Wal-Mart for a few dollars. I then
hooked the soft extensions around the inside of the
handle bars on either side of the ignition switch, being
careful not to pinch any wires or cables. I then hooked
two tie-down straps from the extensions to the hooks in
the roof, pulling them taut but leaving the bike's front tire
on the floor. This is done so that the bike cannot tip over
while you work on it, and later, to suspend the front end
off the floor.

Leaving the front

tire on the
ground, take your
6mm Allen
wrench and
loosen the pinch
bolts on the right
(as if you're
riding) side (both
sides if you have
two 12mm allen
wrenches) of the
bottom of the
fork. They should
be very tight, so
be certain that
you have the
wrench in the
head snugly or
you could strip it.

Once the pinch bolts are loose, it's time to get out your
12mm sockets and ratchets. If you have two 12mm
sockets, put one on either side of the bike in the axle. Use
the ratchets against each other to break the axle nut free
from the axle. If you have just one 12mm socket, loosen
the right side axle nut, and once free, loosen the pinch
bolts on the left side. It will also be very tight. It helps to
kneel on the ground and put the tire between your knees
to keep it from rotating left to right.
The axle nut will come out of the right hand side of the
bike first. Lay it on the floor. At this point, lift the tire up.
(If you're using the straps, get on the bike and rock your
weight backwards to get the weight off of the front end.
Ideally, you would just have the suspension bottomed out
but not off the ground, but that's hard to do. Anyway,
once you have it where you want it, pull the straps tight
in their new position)
The axle may need a little coaxing to come out. If you have a wooden dowel you can push it out
that way, or you can use the handle end of one of your smaller ratchets or the long end of the
12mm Allen wrench. Either way, a gentle tap should get it moving and then you can pull it out
with your fingers from the other side. Lay it on the floor on the side it came out of.
Make absolutely certain nobody touches the front brake lever from this point forward. If they do,
the disc will not fit back between the pads and you may have to take the caliper off to push them
back a little.
There are two more parts that need to come out before the wheel can be taken off of the bike; the
axle spacer on the left, and the speedometer gearing on the right. The axle spacer is a little silver
top hat looking thing between the fork and the wheel. Just reach in there and slide it out with your
fingers. Lay it on the floor in the same orientation you took it off, next to the axle. Slide the
wheel toward the front of the bike a little at a time. You'll feel a little tension from the brakes.
At some point you will be touching the fender with the tire. You should have enough clearance to
pull the speedometer gearing off the hub at this point. Once it's off, let it hang from the cable
behind the forks. You'll have to mate up the primitive gears when you reinstall later, but that's not
a problem.

You have to get

the fender out of
the way, so take
the two front
10mm bolts out
on both sides,
then loosen the
rear ones. You
can now just
pivot it up a little
to get it out of the
way.
Congratulations, the wheel is off! Installation is the reverse of removal. The only problems you
are going to have is getting the disc back between the brake pads and lining up the speedo gears.
As far as the brakes, you just have to fiddle with it, adjusting the position of the wheel relative to
the pads, as it has to be absolutely straight. The speedometer gear is easy also, since it won't fit
back in without it's mated up right. It helps to look inside the housing and mark with a pen on the
outside where the nibs are, so that you can rotate the tire to mate it up when you reinstall it
without having to guess.
As far as torque specs, FOG says the axle bolt and nut are "Tight." The guy at the tire place told
me around 80-85 lb-ft. I can attest that this is pretty damn tight, as I used a torque wrench and I
was getting worried that it was too tight. I put the pinch bolts as tight as I could without stripping.
The service manual specifies a 65 ft-lb (88 N-m) torque on the front wheel.

Remove Rear Wheel

Use center stand & put block under wheel.
1. Detach caliper from disc.
1. 6mm hex key to disconnect caliper brake unit from silver caliper plate.
2. Don't mess with brake hose, just tie caliper unit up away from wheel. A short thin
bungee cord works well.
2. Remove axle nut & axle.
1. Pliers for cotter pin.
2. 24mm socket wrench for axle nut.

3. Dead blow hammer to lightly tap axle through.

3. Remove chain from sprocket.
1. Loosening chain tension is optional at this point. (Use 12mm and 14mm wrenches
if you do.)
2. Push wheel slightly forward to give slack in chain, set chain on swingarm away
from wheel.
4. Remove wheel, silver caliper plate, sprocket, & spacer.
1. Remove silver caliper plate from the swing arm groove.
2. Remove sprocket from left side of wheel (it just pops right out).
3. Remove metal spacer from right side - caliper brake side - of wheel. (It will
otherwise eventually end up popping out.)
4. When setting wheel down, set on surface with brake disc facing up after removing
sprocket, or lean against a surface.

Install Rear Wheel

1. Reinsert sprocket & spacer, set wheel in place, & put caliper brake unit (without caliper
plate) in position.
1. Optionally spray a very light coating of lubricant over rubber teeth at center of
wheel if sprocket is tight to fit.
2. Reinsert metal spacer into right side of wheel before setting wheel in place.
3. Untie or remove bungee cord from caliper brake unit and set in place over brake
disc of wheel.Do not activate rear brake until reinstalled. Yes, it's interesting to
watch the way the brakes work. No, it's not worth it.
4. Optionally, before setting wheel in place, get inside to the ball bearings at center
of wheel and use some ball bearing grease.
2. Put chain on sprocket.
1. Loosen chain tension (if you haven't done so already).
2. 12mm and 14mm wrenches for chain tension adjuster bolts on left and/or right
sides.

3. Insert axle (partially), slide silver caliper plate into swingarm groove, finish inserting axle,
& secure caliper.
1. Push axle through beyond the sprocket and left inner rim of wheel, stopping at
right inner rim.
2. Slide caliper plate into swingarm groove.
3. Insert axle rest of the way; dead blow hammer to lightly tap axle through.
4. Optionally add axle nut but keep it loose for now.
5. Tighten caliper brake unit with 6mm hex key.
4. Adjust chain tension, align wheel, tighten axle nut, & add cotter pin.
1. 35-40mm (1.3-1.5") chain slack; use tape measure, ruler, or eye-ball-it.
2. Align wheel with alignment measuring marks (plates) on both swingarms. Use
additional alignment methods if you wish.
3. 24mm socket on 1/2" drive torque wrench for tightening axle nut to 80 ft.lb.
4. Insert cotter pin; pliers to keep it in place.
5. Optionally lube chain if it has been a few hundred mi

Those low-profile 190-series tires sure look gnarly on the back of a sportbike, and we've seen
them pinched onto all sizes of rims. But in reality, a 190/50-17 fits properly only on a 6.0-inch
rim, and cramming it onto anything smaller severely changes its profile.
As an experiment, we mounted a 190-series Metzeler Rennsport onto our F4i's 5.5-inch rear
wheel and took some measurements. Compared to the correctly sized tire on the same rim, the
190's profile closely matches the 180's near the edges of the tread, but is much lower in the center
area-equivalent to about a 6mm change in ride height. Effectively, the wider tire will give more
rake and trail when the bike is vertical, while keeping close to the original geometry when the
bike is leaned over. Accounting for one (by changing ride height) will unduly affect the other.
Following our test with the Metzeler Sportecs, we slipped a 190/50 rear Sportec onto the F4i and
rode a portion of the test loop for a practical comparison. With no changes to suspension or
geometry, the F4i felt substantially different with the wider tire. With the bike straight up and
down, steering was slightly sluggish in comparison, but just off vertical, the F4i was quite tippy
and darted into corners. The light, neutral steering of the Sportecs was completely changed and
the bike lost its balanced feel. The sensation was very much like riding on a tire squared off from
too many freeway miles. At higher lean angles, performance was less affected, although making
transitions from side to side was unpredictable. And, contrary to the popular myth that the wider
tire puts down a bigger footprint and gives more traction, we felt no improvement in that
department from the properly sized tire.
We've experienced similar changes with a 180-series tire on a 5.0-inch rim meant for a 170-series
bun. Tire engineers work hard to design and match front and rear profiles for characteristics that
we sometimes take for granted. Upsetting that balance is surprisingly easy and you should think
twice before sacrificing your tire's performance for appearance's sake.
This story was originally published as part of the tire test in the June 2002 issue of Sport Rider.

Setting Suspension Preload

From Forum Member "dad". See this link.

There are two sag numbers. One is called "Free Sag". That is the amount that the suspension will
compress without the rider on the bike. Just the bike, standing upright, all by itself, on level
ground.
The other is called "Static Sag". That is the amount that the suspension will compress with the
rider on the bike, standing upright, on level ground.
The sag is adjustable by changing the "pre-load" on the spring. That is accomplished by turning
that spanner nut on top of the spring for the rear (loosen the top lock nut first and then turn

clockwise to increase preload), or changing the spring spacer lengths in the forks at the front. OR,
most newer bikes have adjuster screws on the top of the front fork tubes that allow some pre-load
adjustment without requiring modification to the internal spacer length. (Unfortunately, the EX
isn't one of those.) Sad When acceptable ranges can't be accomplished, it requires changing the
spring. It will become clear as we go. Roll Eyes Grin
Contents
[hide]

1 GETTING THE MEASUREMENTS

o

1.1 FREE SAG, NO RIDER

1.2 STATIC SAG, RIDER ABOARD

2 SO... JUST HOW DOES THE SPRING WORK?

3 CONCEPT SUMMARY

4 CONCEPTS APPLIED

5 HOW FREE AND STATIC SAG AFFECT THINGS

6 RECOMMENDED SETTINGS

GETTING THE MEASUREMENTS

For this segment we'll focus on the rear but the basic principles/theory apply to the front equally.
There will be details that vary but the core principles remain the same.
You'll need a tape measure, a friend or two to help with holding the bike and getting the readings,
and I recommend some duct tape to attach the measure to the bike. Extend the measure and lock
it in the extended position. Tape the free end to the body directly above the rear axle, letting the
locked tape measure body hang down, measure tape in line with the axle. (Place a strip of ductape
on the body to serve as a paint protector, then tape the measure to this.) It is nice to align a whole
number with the reference point you chose on the axle. This would be with the suspension topped
out, extended fully against the top stop. Now proceed to getting your measurements.
At the front, measure the fork movement directly. Place a wire tie around one of the fork tubes to
use as a sliding reference point. As you compress the suspension it will slide the tie up the leg,
holding the travel reference point to be measured.

FREE SAG, NO RIDER

At the rear. The desired "Free sag" is a pretty well fixed number and should be between 1/4" up
to as little as just zero. Any tighter and the bike's suspension can't extend sufficiently after hitting
a bump to maintain tire contact with the ground. We'll look at this more, later. It is measured by
first lifting up on the bike to be sure the suspension is fully extended, topped out. That can be
done by pulling it over on the sidestand or just lifting up on the grab rail. In this position, check
that the axle reference you are measuring to aligns with a whole number on the tape measure. It
makes it easier to get your measurements if it is aligned with a whole number. Then, gently let
just the weight of the bike settle down on the suspension. Make sure the bike's vertical and you're
not lifting on it or pushing down on it, just steadying it so it won't fall. Record the change in
measurement at the axle, the amount that the suspension compressed from topped out.
Now, to cancel out the stiction of the suspension components from your measurements, bike still
vertical, push down on the bike, compressing the suspension slightly, then gently release it. Let
the bike come up slowly and when settled, record that dimension. The difference between the two
is the stiction of the suspension components and needs to be cancelled out. Take 1/2 of that
difference between the two measurements and either add it to the first measurement
(compression, the one from letting the bike settle from the fully extended position), or subtract it
from the measurement taken by compressing it and letting it rise (rebound). That number is the
"free sag", corrected for component stiction.
If you got NO movement from topped out to the weight settled on the suspension, then the spring
may be too tight, too much pre-load, and we have no way of knowing how much that is. Of
course, it's possible that the suspension is just topped out, not pressing hard against the top stop
but just settled against it. To determine if that's the case, with the bike standing upright, apply the
lightest of downward force on the bike, just the force of a lightly placed fingertip. If it starts to
move right away, that could be considered zero and may be left alone at this time, BUT... only the
lightest of downward force, just a fingertip's effort. Otherwise, you have to back the spring preload off and measure until you get at least some sag, or at least a number that we can comfortably
call zero as we just defined it. (More on this later.)
As long as you have some "free sag" and have recorded that number, corrected for stiction, then
proceed to measuring the "static sag". We'll adjust after we get both of these numbers and digest
what they tell us.
At the front. All of the basics remain the same but the methods of getting the measurements will
be slightly different. Place a wire tie around one fork leg. Slide it down to engage the fork leg.
Now, it will slide with the fork movements, pushed to a position by the travel. As you lift the bike
the tie will remain at its highest travel point so the travel can be measured directly from the tie to
the top of the fork leg by topping the suspension out and measuring the exposed fork leg directly.
For rebound dimensions you'll be bouncing the front down and releasing slowly, therefore will

push the wire tie past the point that you're trying to measure. For those dimensions, once the load
has settled, hold that position while the person recording the measurements slides the wire tie
down to engage the fork. Then unload the bike, top it out, and record the measurement. All of the
principles remain the same. Only the method of measuring has changed.
STATIC SAG, RIDER ABOARD

"Static sag" is the measurement of the suspension travel with the rider aboard, feet on the pegs, in
riding position. To get this measurement it will take a person or two to hold the bike upright and
one to read the tape measure. The rider should assume riding position and try to remain still to
assure the accuracy of the measurements. To measure the rear it may help to steady the bike from
the front to have the least possible effect on the rear readings, and from the rear for measuring the
front.
Proceed in the exact same fashion you did getting the "free sag" numbers, front and rear, except
rider aboard this time. The measurement is that from the suspension topped out at full up travel to
compressed with the rider aboard, bike held vertical. (This why it's handy to set a whole number
on your scale to the topped position at the beginning. No need to recheck it. It doesn't change.)
Lift the bike slightly and let it settle gently, recording the number. Then compress it and let it rise
gently, recording that number. Take 1/2 of the difference between those two readings and add it to
the compressing number or subtract it from the rebounding number, the same as you did getting
the "free sag", cancelling out the stiction. Now we've got the "static sag" number, corrected for
stiction.
Again, measuring the front repeats the steps described for "free sag", but with the rider aboard.
OK?
Checking the measurements a couple of times is good practice to be sure you haven't accidentally
pushed on the bike in a fashion that will alter the readings.
NOW, we got 'em, what do we do wit' 'em. Wink
SO... JUST HOW DOES THE SPRING WORK?

Well, first, let's think through what the spring is doing and get rid of an often held but wrong idea.
The idea that winding down on the spring makes it stiffer. It DOESN'T! Shocked Bear with me
on this, and don't proceed until you understand it. It is critical in the whole picture and once
understood, you'll never refer to "winding down" on the spring as "making it stiffer" ever again...
because it doesn't and you'll be part of the select few who understand why. Wink Shocked Grin
EXAMPLE:

We'll pick some nice round numbers out of the air to demonstrate the principle, keeping the math
simple, focusing on the principle as it applies to the spring ONLY. The example will focus on the
rear but the same principles apply at the front. (BTW,this principle is generic to springs but we're
using a suspension example.)
As the need for a specific number arises, we'll use:
1. a 100"# linear spring.
2. a 100# force each end from a 200# rider sitting on the bike.
3. a 200# bike, balanced with 100# at each end.
4. 5" total suspension travel
5. For simplicity, we'll place the spring in straight alignment/compression with
the axle so we don't have to adjust for the leverage/ratios of the swing arm or
rocker linkages.

Here goes. Smiley Spring, all by itself, not in a bike. It's a 100"# linear spring. That means the
spring compresses 1" for each 100# of load applied to it. If we apply a 200# load, it compresses
2"... and so on... (until it's coil bound, of course). Wink Got that? Make sure.
OK. Now, we have this spring in the bike, pre-loaded with the adjustment nut to a number, let's
use 1/2". As such, we have the nut wound down 1/2" so have pre-loaded it with 50# of force. Got
it so far? Make sure. (Linear spring, 100"#, wound down 1/2" = 50# of force.)
OK. Now, if we were measuring the "free sag", what would we do? We'd lift on the bike to be
sure it's topped out. Right? The spring will extend until it comes up against the adjuster nut. The
nut that we wound down 1/2", pre-loading the spring with 50# of force. Right? That's our starting
point. Now, when we stand the bike up to measure the sag, applying its 100# of force to the
spring, it will move down, compress. How far? An additional 1/2", yes? The first 10, 20, right
through to 50# never caused any movement. Why? Because we already had a 50# pre-load in the
spring. At 51# and beyond we started to get movement. Got it so far? Make sure. We would have
a reading of 1/2" "free sag". (With a 50# pre-load on a 100"# spring, placing 100# load on the
spring results in 1/2" additional movement.)
OK, if you're still with me, Wink let's look at the rider aboard. We already determined that our
example has 1/2" "free sag". Now we're going to place an additional 100# force on the spring by
putting the rider on the bike. We were already compressed 1/2" (free sag) due to the settings we
had so when the rider gets aboard, we add another 100# so the spring compresses another 1". We
now have a "static sag" of 1 1/2". Right? We had a 50# pre-load, applied a 100# force to the

spring from the weight of the bike alone, compressing it 1/2" additional, then added 100# more,
compressing it another 1", to the present measurement of 1 1/2". Got it? Cool, huh? Smiley
Now, let's play with our adjusting nut, see if we can make this example stiffer.... or do we just
move it around, wind it up OR wind it down. Let's turn the nut down another 1/2", adding another
1/2" pre-load. That has us at 1" pre-load on our 100 pounds per inch spring. So what happens to
our sag readings? Our pre-load is at 100# and our bike only weight is 100#, so the "free sag" goes
to just zero. Right? Got it? Therefore it follows that our "static sag" goes to 1", right? Our "free
sag" is now zero so when we put our rider aboard, his 100# force moves the bike down 1".
Hmmm.
Winding the nut down hasn't done anything but move the starting height that all of this occurs.
Putting 100# weight on it moved it 1", same as before, even though we wound down 1/2" on the
spring. We didn't change the amount the suspension moved. The same load moved it the same
amount, just from a different starting point. Got it? Did we "stiffen" anything? No.
Now, just to complete the circle, we'll back the nut off to zero spring pre-load. We stand the bike
up with its 100# load and measure our "free sag". It will be 1", right? And then we put our rider
aboard with his additional 100# and our "static sag" will go to 2", right? If you're seeing it and
agreeing, you've got it... this far.
OK, so all of the screwing we do on that nut has not directly changed the spring's stiffness, the
loads, the spring's ability to handle loads, NOTHING... except the ride height, moved it up or
down. BTW, we don't want to adjust ride height there. While it effects ride height, we don't want
to adjust ride height there. More on that later.
Now, and this is important. All we want to use the adjuster nut for is to move the spring's
operating range to optimize the available suspension travel, getting it in the most useable,
practical operating range. The best range for both up and down movements, to allow the wheel to
follow the road the best it can.
Let's continue to use our frictionless suspension above, one more exercise at the extreme to
underscore the point. We wouldn't want to adjust it to have 4" of "free sag" in a suspension that
has a max travel of 5", would we? As soon as our rider got aboard, his 100# would move it down
another 1" to 5" "static sag", the full operating range of our suspension. The first bump we hit, the
suspension could absorb nothing. It's bottomed. Not that it is a likely scenario to see anything this
extreme, it's still demonstrative of the principles involved and adding spring tension at this
point... or taking it away, we accomplish nothing. The suspension is completely out of its
operating range, unable to do a thing for us.

And to complete this circle of extreme examples, what if we pre-loaded the spring 2". It will be
pre-loaded with 200# of force. Stand the bike up on its own, applying its 100# force, and the
suspension never moves, right? Now put the additional 100# force of the rider aboard. The
suspension still doesn't move, right? Make sure you're following this far. Now, the first bump you
hit, the suspension moves a bit because it exceeds the 200# load and pre-load, the bike goes up a
bit, and then as you clear the bump, IMMEDIATELY the wheel leaves the ground!... because
we've got it set topped out hard against the adjuster nut, unable to extend. Shocked Not good.
Wink But this is EXACTLY the nature of the problem you create as you try to wind down on too
soft of a spring to get an appropriate "static sag", having ignored the "free sag". More on this
later. Smiley
CONCEPT SUMMARY

At this point we should have a good grasp on the basic concepts and terminology as it relates to
the springs. What we should understand is:
1. The definition of "free sag" and static sag".
2. How to measure them.
3. A given spring has given capacities, and will move a predictable amount for a
known load. (A 100"# spring moves 1" for each 100# applied. 200# will move
it 2", etc.)
4. The adjuster nut changes the height, the position in the available travel range
that the spring moves as its capacity to support the applied load dictates. It
does not stiffen the spring. It does move the range in which the spring
operates.
5. The travel range is fixed by the shock travel length at the rear, and the fork
travel length at the front.
CONCEPTS APPLIED

One more example to see how all of this theory applies to a riding scenario. We'll use our same
theoretical bike.
What if the spring installed was much weaker, say 25"# for example. And the rider load was still
100#. Let's set the "free sag" at zero, the highest it should ever be set, ideally. We will have to
wind 4" of pre-load into it to accomplish that but so what? We got it at zero like we wanted,
right? The rider climbs aboard and the "static sag" goes to 4". Right? So we only have 1", of a
total 5", of suspension travel left to absorb load variations. Hmmm. What else might be
happening?

Well, let's think about this a minute, consider what we DO know at this point. What do you think
happens as we hit mild variations in the road or load the suspension just from the centrifugal
force pushing down on the suspension from the mass of the bike and rider leaned into a bend?
Without knowing what's perfect, what would a 100"# spring do differently than the 25"# spring,
all else being the same? Zero "free sag" for both, the same 100# rider load, but those two springs,
a 25"# and a 100"#.
Let's assign some numbers to the load in this scenario so we can see it. We'll say that the
imperfections in the road, as well as centrifugal cornering force, caused a 25# additional load
compressing, then went over a rise causing a 100# unloading of the applied weight.
The 100# spring bike starts with a free sag of zero. The rider gets aboard, applying his 100# force
so the suspension compresses 1" (1" static sag). We start down the road, through a corner,
applying an additional 25# force so the total sag, total downward travel, went to 1 1/4". OK?
Now the bike advances to the 100# unloading imperfection. The resultant suspension travel is
what? The bike was at 1" compressed, "static sag", the load is reduced by 100# from the road
imperfection, we have a 100"# spring, so the suspension travels upward 1", positioning the
suspension at just 0" sag. Follow that so far? Cool
So, here's the summary of our suspension action for the 100# spring as it travelled our theoretical
road:

Max sag: 1 1/4".

Min sag: 0"

Total that the suspension travelled: 1 1/4"

Now the 25# spring bike, same scenario. Start with the same zero free sag. The rider climbs
aboard, applying his 100# load, so the suspension goes to 4" compressed (4" static sag). We start
down the same road, applying the additional 25# force, so the total sag, total downward travel,
goes to 5" (just bottomed). OK? Now the bike advances to the 100# unloading imperfection. The
resultant suspension travel is what? The bike is at 4" compressed, "static sag", the load is reduced
by 100# from the road imperfection, we have a 25"# spring, so the suspension travels upward 4",
positioning the suspension at just 0" sag. See it so far? Cool
So, here's the summary of our suspension action for the 25# spring as it travelled the same
theoretical road:

Max sag: 5".

Min sag: 0"

Total that the suspension travelled: 5"

WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The exact same road, the exact same rider, the exact same
conditions, one bike used the whole 5" of suspension travel while the other, again in the exact
same conditions, used a total of 1 1/4". NOW, what do you think our "exact same rider" felt
riding those two bikes through the exact same conditions. Wink Grin One of those bikes would be
inclined to feel planted, inspire rider confidence, while the other is wallowing down the road,
maxing out the suspension's total travel.
HOW FREE AND STATIC SAG AFFECT THINGS

Now that we know how to properly measure static and free sag, what can we tell about our
suspension from those two numbers?
The difference between free and static sag will tell us if the springs installed are appropriate for
the bike and rider without knowing anything about the specific spring rate, bike weight, or rider
weight. This does NOT mean those aren't good bits of information to have. In fact, that's the data
that the tuners use to predict and recommend the proper components for your bike, sight unseen.
All it means is, we are striving to optimize the suspension in its travel in an application, and that
the tell-tale measurements, the final proof of our work, are the free and static sag. They can be
calculated, accurately predicted, and bench adjusted if sufficient data is available, but at the end
of the day, the proper components will fall into the range and the improper won't. If our bike
measures in that range, we don't need to know the details of why, just that they are, and let that
final fact be our documentation that the components are correct and the same we would have
arrived at with all of the data. Understanding all of the original theory should make this evident.
If it's not, re-read the theory portion until you can satisfactorily understand the claims just made.
OK, so what should those numbers be? The difference between free and static sag for typical
sportbikes should be approximately 1" for street use. That can be reduced, stiffer, to about 7/8"
(maybe 3/4" at the rear but...), and softer to as much as 1 1/8". Any stiffer than 7/8" is really
asking for trouble with the suspension being able to skip on corner bumps. As you get softer,
beyond the 1 1/8" range, the flaws aren't as absolute as being too stiff, but the rider comfort and
positive feeling of control diminish. At 1 1/4" it's already showing on hard corners and wallowing
may appear, especially with a soft shock. By 1 3/8" expect wallowing at the rear and a generally
unplanted feel as you push the bike harder.
For the track, all of the above numbers can be reduced by 1/8". That would mean that the
minimum differential between the two numbers would be 3/4" (maybe 5/8" at the rear, but...) at
the stiffer end and softer to about 1". Notice that the two, street and track, overlap. Soft on the
track might be considered stiff on the street. Consider that to be in the realm of rider preference,
not right or wrong.

RECOMMENDED SETTINGS

For the street or track, free sag should be set between 1/4" (6mm) and up to just zero. Static sag
for the street should fall between 1" (25mm) and 1 3/8" (35mm). On the track that can be reduced
to as little as 3/4" (20mm) and as much as 1 1/4" (32mm).
So where should I set mine? The ranges are fairly loose, aren't they? The end to be most
concerned about is the top out possibility from a spring that's too stiff and a static or free sag not
sufficient. A spring that's on the stiff side of the range then set at the minimal end of the static sag,
will wind up with a minimal free sag as well, and may not be a good choice. The potential to top
out on a harsh bump, not allowing the wheel to reach the ground, becomes greater as those two
numbers are reduced. A spring that falls on the stiffer side of acceptable might be better set with
the free sag at the greater end of its range allowing the static sag to fall in an acceptable portion
of its range.
On the street, front sag should be conservative, that's to say, "When in doubt, add a little". You
don't want the front too restricted. You might get away with a rear a little on the tight side but not
the front.
Example: If we have a sag differential of 7/8" and have the free sag set at zero, then the static sag
will be only 7/8". This may be trouble. If we set the free sag at 3/16" it will add directly to the
static sag and will end up at 1 1/16". I don't think I'd want any less for this scenario, maybe even
another 1/16" (to 1/4") free sag, 1 1/8" static sag. On the other hand, if we had a spring that was
compressing 1 1/8", we could run the free sag up at 1/8" and still have a comfortable static sag of
1 1/4".
The shock settings, which we have not addressed because we don't have any, Wink will also
come into play here. I'll mention it because it's worth being aware of, just not much of an option
for these. Shock settings can have an almost overlapping effect as we get on the edge. A spring
that's softer on its scale can be compensated for with a slightly stiffer shock setting and the
opposite also holds true. BUT... a shock NEVER supports weight dynamically and can therefore
NEVER fix a true spring problem. It can and does only assist by controlling the springs'
movements in the short term.
Now you're in the range! Slight tweeks from this point may show some improvement in handling
but you have it in the range and can say so with some confidence. The biggest thing to consider if
you've reduced sag is to be aware that it may tend to skip on bumps. If it does, consider adding
some sag. If we had shock adjustments we might look there, too.
Ride height should not be changed with the spring adjustments. That should be evident by now.
Get the springs right, sags right, then change ride height externally, like with the links at the rear
or sliding the tubes in the trees at the front. Some shocks can be shimmed at the attachment points

and even others have adjustability built in. It's a different setting. Even though setting the sag
effects it, it's NOT where we adjust it, right? Smiley OK, just a little. Wink Keep it in mind when
setting sags, but keep the point in mind too. It's NOT your ride height adjustment. You don't get
much there and it can create more trouble elsewhere by wasting useable suspension travel.
On the street, front sag should be conservative, that's to say, "When in doubt, add a little". You
don't want the front too stiff. The above numbers should work fine but weigh the whole picture
carefully if you choose to get on the stiff side of the spring range, or minimal sag settings within
their range. Good roads, maybe. Bad roads, trouble. You might get away with a rear a little on the
stiff side but not the front. It's unnerving when the front's not planted.
Fork oil level has an effect on the spring rate in the front. As such, it's a critical number. The air
that is trapped in a fork tube has a piston effect on the fork leg and works as a progressive air
spring, adding force over and above that of the spring compressing. Raising or lowering the oil
level effects the volume of air, therefore the amount of the spring effect that compressing it
affords. A higher level (up to the extreme point that it would hydraulically lock the front) will
have the effect of making a front spring that's linear in its characteristics, act progressive when
both the air and spring's forces are combined. This is critical for the extreme front loads that can
occur under hard braking, placing ALL of the weight of the whole package on just the front
wheel. As such, it's important.
Guidelines for oil height will come with a set of springs and will be very close if the springs are
properly sized for the weight. To prove the appropriateness of the level, a wire tie left on the fork
leg will indicate the max travel under hard braking. It should not bottom but at the same time,
should not leave a great amount of unused travel. If we aren't using it, why have it? Right? Real
hard braking, smooth surface, should leave maybe 1/2" travel. That's the reserve for hard braking
and a bump. If the spring's right it will handle the load nicely and the fork oil assist will be
sufficient to handle the extremes of braking. BTW, an appropriate fork oil level with the
appropriate springs will typically fall in at about 5" to 5 1/4". Not because it's etched in stone but
the factors that are in play tend to fall in that close, one application to another. Still check the
recommended numbers for your starting point. Chances are they'll be perfect. Those guys have
done this before. Wink