Lonely Planet Publications

63

BUDAPEST
Budapest
Budapest is unique in Hungary. No other city is as beautiful, as rich, as well endowed in
fine art and architecture or, frankly, as crowded. As Hungarys fvros (main city or capital),
it is the administrative, business and cultural centre; virtually everything in Hungary starts,
finishes or is currently taking place here.

Straddling a curve in the Danube River (Duna), Budapest is flanked by the Buda Hills on the
western bank and what is essentially the start of the Great Plain to the east. And the human
legacy is just as remarkable as Mother Natures. Architecturally, Budapest is a gem, with a
surfeit of baroque, neoclassical, Eclectic and Art-Nouveau (or Secessionist) buildings. Overall,
however, Budapest has a fin-de-sicle feel to it, for it was then during the industrial boom
and the capitals golden age in the late 19th century that most of todays city was built.

To retain its well-deserved title of vilgvros (world-class city), Budapest has taken on all
the baggage that such a status usually demands: organised crime, faceless modern archi-
tecture, a mobile phone at the ear of every suit, international fast-food eateries at every
corner. Yet Budapest remains Hungarian: exotic, sometimes inscrutable, often passionate,
with its two feet firmly planted in Europe, but with a glance every now and then eastward
to the spawning grounds of its citizens. It is unmissable.

HIGHLIGHTS
Taking views of the Danube while above
it (from Castle Hill, p69, or Gellrt Hill,
p71), while on it (from Vigad tr, p102) Margaret Island

or while in it (from Margaret Island, p75) Szchenyi Baths

Letting your mind wander over the Kirly Baths Hungarian State
sinuous curves and asymmetrical forms Opera House
Castle Hill
of the citys incomparable Art-Nouveau Liszt Academy of Music
architecture, such as the Museum of Vigad tr
Applied Arts (p94) Rudas Baths
Gellrt Hill Museum of
Soaking the afternoon away in a thermal Gellrt Baths Applied Arts
bath Turkish-style (Rudas, p99, or Kirly,
p97), in a cathedral (Gellrt, p97) or while
playing board games afloat (Szchenyi,
p97)
Taking in an evening of music at the
Hungarian State Opera House (p95) or
the Liszt Academy of Music (p93)
Sizing up the monumental socialist
Statue Park
mistakes on display at Statue Park (p127)

TELEPHONE CODE: 1 POPULATION: 1.75 MILLION AREA: 525 SQ KM

BUDAPEST 64 B U D A P E S T H i s t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T O r i e n t a t i o n 65

BUDAPEST
HISTORY but it was King Charles Robert (Kroly ORIENTATION appearing before each street address indi-
Strictly speaking, the story of Budapest be- Rbert) who moved the court from Viseg- Budapest lies in the north-central part of cates the district.
gins only in 1873 when hilly, largely residen- rd to Buda 50 years later. His son Louis the Hungary, some 250km southeast of Vienna. For information on getting to/from Buda-
tial Buda and historic buda on the western Great (Nagy Lajos) began the construction The Danube River, the citys historical ar- pests Ferihegy International Airport, 24km
bank of the Danube merged with flat, in- of a royal palace. tery, is crossed by nine bridges that link southeast of the city centre, see p123.
dustrial Pest on the eastern side to form The Mongols had burned Buda and Pest hilly, historic Buda with bustling, commer-
what was at first called Pest-Buda. But like to the ground in 124142, and thus began cial and very flat Pest. Maps
so much in Hungary, its not that simple. a pattern of destruction and rebuilding that Its a large, sprawling city but, with few Lonely Planets Budapest City Map covers
The Romans had an important colony would last until the 20th century. Under exceptions (the Buda Hills, City Park and the more popular parts of town in detail.
here called Aquincum until the 5th century, the Turks the two towns lost most of their some excursions), the areas beyond the The best folding maps of the city are Car-
when they were forced to flee the settlement populations, and when the Turks were de- Nagykrt (literally, Big Ring road) in tographias 1:22,000 (690Ft) and 1:28,000
by the Huns. The Magyars arrived nearly feated by the Habsburgs in the late 17th Pest and west of Moszkva tr in Buda are (570Ft) ones. If you plan to explore the city
half a millennium later, but Buda and century Buda Castle was in ruins. The 1848 residential or industrial and of little interest thoroughly, the Budapest Atlas, also from
Pest were no more than villages until the Revolution, WWII and the 1956 Uprising to visitors. It is a well laid-out city, so much Cartographia, is indispensable. It comes
12th century, when foreign merchants and all took their toll. In 194445, for example, so that it is almost difficult to get lost. in the same scale (1:20,000) but two sizes:
tradespeople settled. In the late 13th cen- the retreating Germans even blew up every If you look at a map of the city youll see a smaller format (1950Ft) and a larger one
tury King Bla IV built a fortress in Buda, bridge spanning the Danube. that two ring roads the Nagykrt and the (2600Ft). There is also a 1:25,000 pocket atlas
semicircular Kiskrt (Little Ring road) of just the Inner Town available for 1210Ft.
BUDAPEST DISTRICTS 0 5 km more or less link all of the most important Many bookshops, including Libri Kny-
0 3 miles
bridges across the Danube and define cen- vpalota (p66), stock a wide variety of maps.
tral Pest. The Nagykrt consists of Szent Cartographia (Map p84; % 312 6001; www.carto
Istvn krt, Terz krt, Erzsbet krt, graphia.hu; VI Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 37; h10am-6pm Mon-
Bksmegyer
Jzsef krt and Ferenc krt. The Kiskrt Fri; mM3 Arany Jnos utca) has its own outlet in
comprises Kroly krt, Mzeum krt and Budapest, but its not self-service, which can
Csillaghegy Vmhz krt. Important boulevards such be annoying. A better bet is Trkpkirly (Map
River

IV
as Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t, Andrssy t, Rkczi King; Map p84; %472 0505; VI Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 23;
III
jpest
t and lli t, fan out from the ring roads, h10am-6pm Mon-Fri; mM3 Arany Jnos utca) or
ube

creating large squares and circles. the smaller Prisi Udvar Knyvesbolt (Prisi Udvar
Dan

Aquincum XV
Szphalom Angyalfld
Buda is dominated by Castle and Gellrt Bookshop; Map p86; %235 0379; V Petfi Sndor utca 2;
jpalota
BUDA XIII Hills; its busiest square is Moszkva tr. Im- h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek
Hvsvlgy
II
Margit-
portant roads on this side are Margit krt tere) in the Prisi Udvar.
Rkosszentmihly
sziget (the only part of either ring road to cross the
Rzsadomb jliptvros XIV
XVI river), F utca and Attila t on either side of INFORMATION
Zugliget Terzvros
Liptvros
Zugl Castle Hill, and Hegyalja t and Bartk Bla Bookshops
Vzivros V
VI Erzsbetvros Mtysfld t running westerly and southwesterly. Bestsellers (Map p86; %312 1295; V Oktber 6 utca 11;
XII VII
Istenhegy Vr
Belvros
Budapest is divided into 23 kerle, or h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun;
Farkasrt BUDA
I
Jzsefvros PEST districts, which usually also have trad- mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) Top of the pops for English-
VIII X Rkosliget itional names, such as Liptvros (Leopold language books in Budapest is this recently expanded book-
Kbnya
Sasad Town) in district V or Vzivros (Water- shop, which has novels, travel guides and lots of Hungarica,
XVII
IX town) in district I. The Roman numeral as well as a large selection of magazines and newspapers.
XI Kelenfld
Ferencvros
Kispest Rkoshegy
Albertfalva
XIX
A STREET BY ANY OTHER NAME
Pestszentlrinc
XX After WWII most streets, squares and parks were renamed after people, dates or political groups
Budafok Pesterzsbet that have since become anathema to an independent and democratic Hungary. From April 1989
Csepel XVIII names were changed with a determination that some people felt was almost obsessive; Car-
Budattny
XXI tographias street atlas of Budapest lists almost 400 street name changes in the capital alone.
Pestszentimre
Pterimajor
XXII Sometimes it was just a case of returning a street or square to its original (perhaps medieval)
er
Riv name from Lenin tja, say, to Szent korona tja (Street of the Holy Crown). Other times the
Nagyttny Danube
Soroksr
name was new.
XXIII
The new (or original) names are now in place after more than a decade and a half; the old street
signs with a red X drawn across them have all but disappeared, and virtually no one refers to
Ferenciek tere (Sq of the Franciscans) in the capital, for example, as Felszabaduls tr (Liberation
Sq), which honoured the Soviet Armys role in liberating Budapest in WWII.
BUDAPEST 66 B U D A P E S T I n f o r m a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T I n f o r m a t i o n 67

BUDAPEST
Central European University Bookshop (Map p86; Ferenciek tere) For books in English and other languages Internet Resources
DISCOUNT CARDS
%327 3096; V Ndor utca 9; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri; on Hungarian subjects, the more central Stdium is among For Hungarian websites with Budapest links,
g15) Under the same management as Pendragon is this the best bets. The Budapest Card (% 266 0479; www. see p15.
two-floor bookshop at the Central European University, Pendragon (Map pp80-1; %340 4426; XIII Pozsonyi budapestinfo.hu; per 48/72hr 4700/5900Ft) offers Budapest Sun Online (www.budapestsun.com) Popular
which has a good selection of academic and business titles t 21-23; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; j4 free or reduced admission to 60 museums English weekly online, with local news, interviews and
with a regional focus, as well as some second hand stock. or 6) This English-language bookshop has an excellent and other sights in the city, unlimited travel features.
rk Boltja (Writers Bookshop; Map p84; %322 1645; selection of books and guides (including Lonely Planet on all forms of public transport, and dis- Budapest Tourism Office (www.budapestinfo.hu)
VI Andrssy t 45; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm titles). counts on organised tours, on car rental, Budapests best overall website.
Sat; mM1 Oktogon, j4 or 6) For Hungarian authors in Red Bus (Map p86; %337 7453; V Semmelweiss at thermal baths, and at selected shops and Budapest Week (www.budapestweek.com) An excellent
translation, this is the place to go. utca 14; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mM2 restaurants. It is sold at Tourinform offices, source for events, arts and entertainment.
Kzponti Antikvrium (Map p86; %317 3514; Astoria) Below the popular hostel (p104) of the same travel agencies, hotels and main metro sta- Pestiside (www.pestiside.hu) Subtitled The Daily Dish of
V Mzeum krt 13-15; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am- name, this is the only shop in town selling used English- tions. The national equivalent is the Hun- Cosmopolitan Budapest, this acerbic and often very funny
2pm Sat; mM3 Klvin tr) For antique and second-hand language books. gary Card (p370). take on the capital (and nation, for that matter) will have
books in Hungarian, German and English try the Central Sznyi Antikvriuma (Map p84; %311 6431; www you culturally and politically fluent before you even arrive.
Antiquarian, which was established in 1885 and is the .szonyi.hu; V Szent Istvn krt 3; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Visitors Guide Budapest (www.visitorsguide.hu)
largest antique bookshop in Budapest. 9am-1pm Sat; j4 or 6) This long-established antiquar- Emergency This is the Budapest Suns very own website for visitors.
Libri Knyvpalota (Map p84; %267 4844; VII Rkczi ian bookshop has an excellent selection of antique prints If you need to report a crime or a lost or
t 12; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; mM2 and maps (look in the drawers), as well as books. stolen passport or credit card, first call the Left Luggage
Astoria) Huge and spread over two floors, the Book Palace Vilgsajt Hza (World Press House; Map p86; %317 central emergency number (%112), the police Budapests three major train stations, two
has a selection of English-language novels, art books, 1311; V Vroshz utca 3-5; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-2pm (%107) or the English-language crime hotline bus stations and Ferihegy International Air-
guidebooks, maps, music and a caf on the 1st floor. Sat, 8am-noon Sun; mM3 Ferenciek tere) This is the (%8am-8pm 438 8080, 8pm-8am 06 80 660 044). Any port (Terminal 2B) all have left-luggage of-
Libri Stdium (Map p86; %318 5680; V Vci utca 22; best place in Budapest for foreign-language newspapers, crime must then be reported at the police fices or lockers. For more information, see
h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun; mM3 magazines and other periodicals. station of the district youre in. In central the appropriate sections in the Transport
Pest that would be the Belvros-Liptvros Po- chapter (p378).
lice Station (Map p84; %373 1000; V Szalay utca 11-13;
BUDAPEST IN Medical Services
g15). If possible, bring along a Hungarian
Two Days speaker. CLINICS
If youve got just a couple of days in Budapest spend most of the first day on Castle Hill (p69), Other useful numbers: FirstMed Centers (Map p83; %224 9090; www.first
taking in the views and sights and visiting a museum or two. In the afternoon ride the Sikl (p69) Ambulance (%105) medcentres.com; I Hatty utca 14, 5/F; happointments
down to Clark dm tr and, depending on the day of the week, make your way to the Kirly Fire (%104) 8am-7pm Mon-Thu, 8am-6pm Fri, urgent care 24hr;
Baths (p97) or Gellrt Baths (p97) for a relaxing soak. In the evening head for Liszt Ferenc tr for mM2 Moszkva tr) This is a modern private medical
drinks and dinner at Menza (p111). The following day concentrate on the two icons of Hungarian Internet Access clinic with round-the-clock emergency treatment, but its
nationhood and the places that house them: the Crown of St Stephen (p91) in the Parliament Ami Internet Coffee (Map p86; %267 1644; www. not cheap: a basic consultation costs 12,600/25,200Ft for
building and the saint-kings mortal remains in St Stephens Basilica (p91). Take a late afternoon amicoffee.hu in Hungarian only; V Vci up to 10/20 minutes.
coffee (and cake) break at Gerbeaud (p113) in Vrsmarty tr, and try to attend a performance utca 40; per 15/30/60min 200/400/700Ft, per 5/10hr SOS Dental Services (Map p86; %267 9602, 269
at the Liszt Academy of Music (p93) or the Hungarian State Opera House (p95). 3250/6400Ft;h9am-2am; mM3 Ferenciek tere) 6010; VI Kirly utca 14; h24hr; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc
This Internet caf in the university area has 40 terminals. tr) This dental surgery charges 2000Ft for a consultation,
Electric Cafe (Map p84; %413 1803; www.electric 5000Ft to 6000Ft for extractions and 6000Ft to 10,000Ft
Four Days caf.hu; VII Dohny utca 37; per 30/60min 100/200Ft; for fillings.
With another couple of days to look around the city, consider taking our walking tour (p100) up
h9am-midnight; mM2 Blaha Lujza tr) This place is
Andrssy t, stopping off and visiting whatever interests you along the way be it the House of
very popular with travellers. PHARMACIES
Terror (p95) or the Museum of Fine Arts (p96). Lukcs (p113), the caf and cake shop, is conven-
Narancs (Map p84; %413 6071; VII Akcfa utca 5; per All of Budapests 23 districts have a rotating
iently located en route, and you could take the waters at the Szchenyi Baths (p97) in City Park.
30/60min 100/200Ft; h10am-midnight; mM2 Blaha all-night pharmacy; a sign on the door of any
Robinson (p111) or Bagolyvr (p111) are convenient places for an evening meal. The following
Lujza tr) This is a small but charming French-run neigh- pharmacy will help you locate the nearest
day why not take in destinations further afield, such as Statue Park (p127), a ride up into the
bourhood Internet caf. 24-hour place. Other conveniently located
Buda Hills on the Cog Railway (p75) or a hike? Be back in time for a farewell pub and club crawl
Parknet (Map p86; %270 2249; www.parknetcaf.hu; pharmacies:
or, if its the right season, a well-watered tour of the citys best gardens (p117).
V Vci utca 23; per 15/30/60min 170/270/500Ft, per Csillag Patika (Map p84; %314 3695; VIII Rkczi
5/10hr 1800/3000Ft; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm t 39; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat; mM2
One Week Sun; mM3 Ferenciek tere) This place is about as central Blaha Lujza tr)
If you have a week in Budapest you could manage to see most of the sights listed in this chapter, as youll find in Pest. Dli Gygyszertr (Map pp80-1; %355 4691; XII
including secondary gems, such as the Tomb of Gl Baba (p73) and the Ferenc Hopp Museum Private Link (Map pp80-1; %334 2057; www.private Alkots utca 1/b; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat;
of East Asian Art (p95), or markets like the Nagycsarnok (p114) and Ecseri Piac (p120), and do -link.hu; VIII Jzsef krt 52; per 1/5/10hr 690/2000/ mM2 Dli plyaudvar)
a little shopping (p120). You could even leave Budapest for a couple of days excursion to the 3500Ft; h24hr; mM3 Ferenc krt) This is Budapests Terz Patika (Map p84; %311 4439, 475 0295;
Danube Bend (p131), Lake Balaton (p186) or even the Hortobgy (p238) on the Great Plain. largest and most comfortable Internet caf, and one of the VI Terz krt 41; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat;
very few open round the clock. mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar)
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BUDAPEST
Money VI Liszt Ferenc tr 11; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct, 10am-6pm Pick pocketing is most common in The walled area consists of two distinct
There are ATMs everywhere in Budapest, Nov-Mar; mM1 Oktogon) These are less frantic options markets, the Castle District, Vci utca and parts: the Old Town, where commoners lived
including in the train and bus stations, than Tourinform for tourist information. BTO also main- Hsk tere, near major hotels, and on cer- in the Middle Ages (todays owners of the
and quite a few foreign-currency exchange tains offices at Ferihegy International Airports Terminals 1, tain popular buses (eg 7) and trams (2, 4, 6, burgher houses here are anything but com-
machines, too. 2A (arrivals) and 2B (departures). 47 and 49). mon), and the Royal Palace, the original site
K&H bank (Map p86; V Vci utca 40; h8am-5pm Mon, Tourinform (Map p86; %438 8080, 24hr information Catching a taxi in Budapest can be an of the castle built in the 13th century.
8am-4pm Tue-Thu, 8am-3pm Fri; mM3 Ferenciek tere) hotline 06 80 630 800; www.tourinform.hu; V St utca 2; expensive and even unpleasant experience. The easiest way to get to Castle Hill from
Conveniently located on the main shopping drag; offers h8am-8pm; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) This is usually Never hail a taxi on the street; instead order Pest is to take bus 16 from Dek Ferenc tr to
fairly good rates. the single best source of information on Budapest, but it one from a phone private, mobile or pub- Dsz tr, midway between the Old Town and
OTP bank (Map p86; V Dek Ferenc utca 7-9; h7.45am- can get hopelessly crowded in summer, and the staff are lic and give the number (almost always the Royal Palace. Much more fun, though,
6pm Mon, 7.45am-5pm Tue-Fri; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc not always very patient or even helpful. posted somewhere in the phone box) to is to stroll across Chain Bridge and board
tr) The National Savings Bank offers among the best the dispatcher. For more information about the Sikl (h7.30am-10pm, closed 1st & 3rd Mon of
exchange rates for cash and travellers cheques, but arrive Travel Agencies taxis, see p127. month), a funicular railway (uphill/downhill
at least an hour before closing to ensure the bureau de Many of the offices listed here also provide If youve left something on any form of ticket adult 650/550Ft, child aged three to
change counter is still open. information, and dispense brochures and public transport in Budapest, contact the 14 350Ft) built in 1870 that ascends from
maps. For details on commercial outfits BKV lost & found office (Map p84; %267 5299; Clark dm tr to Szent Gyrgy tr near
Post that can book private accommodation, see VII Akcfa utca 18; h8am-5pm Mon & Tue, Thu & Fri, the Royal Palace.
Main post office (Map p86; V Petfi Sndor utca 13-15; Private Rooms (p104). 8am-6pm Wed; mM2 Blaha Lujza tr). Alternatively, you can walk up the Kirly
h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat; mM1/2/3 Dek Express (Map p86; %327 7290, 266 3277; www lpcs, the Royal Steps that lead from Clark
Ferenc tr) A few minutes walk from Dek Ferenc tr and .express-travel.hu; V Semmelweiss utca 4; h8.30am- Scams dm tr to the northwest, or the wide
the main Tourinform office, the main post office is where 5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; mM2 Astoria) The main Scams involving attractive young women, staircase that goes to the southern end of the
you can buy stamps, mail letters, and send packages and office of this youth- and student-orientated agency can gullible guys, expensive drinks in nightclubs Royal Palace from I Szarvas tr.
faxes all from the same place. book accommodation in Budapest, particularly hostels and and a frog-marching to the nearest ATM by Another option is to take metro M2 to
Main post office annexe (Map p86; V Vroshz colleges, and sells transport tickets. gorillas-in-residence have been all the rage Moszkva tr, go up the stairs in the north-
utca 18; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat; mM1/2/3 Ibusz (Map p86; %485 2700; www.ibusz.hu; V Ferenciek in Budapest for a decade now, and we get eastern part of the square and walk up
Dek Ferenc tr) Poste restante service around the corner tere 10; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; mM3 stacks of letters from male readers complain- I Vrfok utca to Vienna Gate. A minibus
from the main post office. Ferenciek tere) The main office of this travel-agency giant ing theyve been ripped off. Guys, please, do with a logo of a castle and labelled Vrbusz
Post office Keleti train station (Map pp80-1; supplies travel brochures, changes money, books all types us all a favour. If it seems too good to be (or Dsz tr) follows the same route from
VIII Kerepesi t 2-6; h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat; of accommodation and accepts credit-card payments. true, it is. Trust us and the mirror; such the start of Vrfok utca.
mM2 Keleti plyaudvar); Nyugati train station (Map p84; Mellow Mood (Map p86; %411 2390; www.youth vanity has cost some would-be Lotharios
VI Terz krt 51-53; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm hostels.hu, www.mellowmood.hu; V Molnr utca 3; hundreds, even thousands, of dollars. Vienna Gate
Sun; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar) h9am-6pm Mon-Fri; mM3 Ferenciek tere) This new The medieval entrance to the Old Town,
kid on the block run by the hostel group of the same name SIGHTS Vienna Gate (Map p83; Bcsi kapu; h24hr) was re-
Telephone & Fax (p104) can organise accommodation in private rooms and For more details on the many museums built in 1936 to mark the 250th anniver-
You can buy SIM cards and rent hand units hostels, book tours, sell you discounted air tickets etc. and other sights listed here, see the Muse- sary of the retaking of the castle from the
from various mobile-phone outlets through- Vista (Map p86; %429 9751; www.vista.hu; VI Paulay ums in Hungary (www.museum.hu) website. Turks. You can climb to the top at any time.
out the city: Ede utca 2; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr; h9am-6.30pm Its not all that huge, but when children
Pannon GSM (Map p86; %311 8416; www.pgsm.hu; Mon-Fri, 9am-2.30pm Sat) Vista is an excellent one-stop Buda in Budapest are loquacious or noisy, their
V Arany Jnos utca 17; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm shop for all your travel needs, both outbound (air tickets, Leafy and unpolluted, Buda as seen from parents tell them: Your mouth is as big as
Sat; mM3 Arany Jnos utca) package tours etc) and incoming (room bookings, organised Pest isnt just a pretty face. The citys more the Vienna Gate!
T-Mobile (Map p86; %266 5723; www.t-mobile.hu; tours, study and ecological tours in Hungary etc). majestic western side fronting the Danube
V Petfi Sndor utca 12; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am- Wasteels (Map pp80-1; %210 2802, 343 3492; has some of its most important and histor- Medieval Jewish Prayer House
1pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere) VIII Kerepesi t 2-6; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat; ical landmarks (eg Castle Hill, the Citadella) The Medieval Jewish Prayer House (Kzpkori
Vodafone (Map p84; %238 7281; www.vodafone.hu; mM2 Keleti plyaudvar) This agency at the top of platform and museums (National Gallery, Budapest Zsid Imahz; Map p83; %225 7815; I Tncsics Mihly
West End City Centre, VI Vci t 3; h10am-9pm Mon- No 9 at Keleti train station sells Billet International de History Museum) and, to the north, the utca 26; adult/child 400/150Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun
Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; mNyugati plyaudvar) Jeunesse (BIJ) tickets (p381), but you must have a student or original Roman settlement at Aquincum. May-Oct), parts of which date from the 14th
youth card (p370) to get the discounted fares. century, contains documents and items
Tourist Information CASTLE HILL linked to the Jewish community of Buda,
Budapest Tourist Office (BTO; %266 0479; www DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Castle Hill (Vrhegy), also called the Cas- as well as Gothic stone carvings and tomb-
.budapestinfo.hu; Castle Hill Map p83; %488 0475; No parts of Budapest are off limits to tle District, a 1km-long limestone plateau stones from the Great Synagogue in Pest.
I Szenthromsg tr; h9am-8pm May-Sep, 10am-7pm visitors, although some locals now avoid towering 170m above the Danube, contains
Oct-Apr; g16 or Vrbusz; Nyugati train station Map p84; Margaret Island after dark during the low Budapests most important medieval monu- Museum of Military History
%302 8580; Nyugati plyaudvar, platform season, and both residents and visitors give ments and museums, and is a Unesco World The Museum of Military History (Hadtrtneti
No 10; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Nov-Mar; mM3 the dodgier parts of the VIII and IX dis- Heritage Site. Below it is a 28km-long net- Mzeum; Map p83;%356 9522; I Tth rpd stny 40;
Nyugati plyaudvar; Oktogon Map p84; %322 4098; tricts (areas of prostitution) a wide berth. work of caves formed by thermal springs. admission free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm
BUDAPEST 70 B U D A P E S T S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T S i g h t s 71

BUDAPEST
Tue-Sun Oct-Mar), loaded with weaponry dating Fishermens Bastion is an overwhelmingly large collection over Independence Monument, Budapests un-
from before the Turkish conquest, also does The Fishermens Bastion (Halszbstya; Map p83; four floors that traces the development of official symbol. From Gellrt Hill, you cant
a pretty good job with uniforms, medals, adult/child 330/165Ft; h 9am-11pm) is another Hungarian art from the 10th century to the beat the views of the Royal Palace and the
flags and battle-themed fine art. Exhibits neo-Gothic masquerade that most visi- present day. The largest collections include Danube. The Tabn (Map p83), the leafy area
focus on the 184849 War of Independ- tors (and Hungarians) believe to be much medieval and Renaissance stonework, Gothic between Gellrt and Castle Hill, is associ-
ence and the Hungarian Royal Army under older. But who cares? It looks medieval and wooden sculptures and panel paintings, late- ated with the Serbs, who settled here after
Admiral Mikls Horthy (191843). still offers views that are among the best in Gothic winged altars, and late Renaissance fleeing from the Turks in the early 18th
Budapest. Built as a viewing platform in and baroque art. century. Later it became known for its res-
Buda Castle Labyrinth 1905 by Schulek, the bastions name was The museum also has an important col- taurants and wine gardens a kind of Mont-
The Buda Castle Labyrinth (Budavri Labirintus; Map taken from the guild of fishermen respon- lection of Hungarian paintings and sculp- martre for Budapest. Most of them burned to
p83;%489 3281; www.labirintus.com; cnr I ri utca 9 & sible for defending this stretch of the wall ture from the 19th and 20th centuries. You the ground at the turn of the 20th century.
Lovas t 4; adult/child 1400/1100Ft; h9.30am-7.30pm), in the Middle Ages. The seven gleaming wont recognise many names, but keep an Today Gellrt Hill and the Tabn are given
a 1200m-long cave system some 16m under white turrets represent the Magyar tribes eye open for the harrowing depictions of over to private homes, parks and three
the Castle District, looks at how the caves that entered the Carpathian Basin in the war and the dispossessed by Lszl Med- thermal spas that make good use of the hot
have been used since prehistoric times in late 9th century. In front of the bastion is nynszky, the unique portraits by Jzsef springs gushing from deep below Gellrt
nine halls and chambers. The admission fee an ornate equestrian statue of St Stephen by Rippl-Rnai, the mammoth canvases by Ti- Hill. The Gellrt Baths (Map pp801) are
is very high by Budapest standards, but its sculptor Alajos Strbl. vadar Csontvry, the paintings of carnivals open to the public (see p97); the Rc Baths
all good fun, and a relief from the heat and by the modern artist Vilmos Aba-Novk (Map p83) were still under renovation at the
the crowds above on a hot summers day. Golden Eagle Pharmacy Museum and works by the realist Mihly Munkcsy, time of writing.
The Golden Eagle Pharmacy Museum (Arany Sas the painter of the puszta.
House of Hungarian Wines Patikamzeum; Map p83; %375 9772; I Trnok utca 18; The Budapest History Museum (Budapesti Szent Gellrt tr
The House of Hungarian Wines (Magyar Borok Hza; admission free; h10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun mid-MarOct, Trtneti Mzeum; Map p83; %225 7815, 375 7533; Royal Szent Gellrt tr faces Independence Bridge
Map p83; %212 1030; www.winehouse.hu; I Szenthrom- 10.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sun Novmid-Mar), just north of Palace, Wing E; adult/child/family 900/450/1500Ft, audi- (Szabadsg hd; Map pp801 and Map
sg tr 6; sampling 3800Ft; hnoon-8pm) offers the Dsz tr on the site of Budapests first phar- oguide 800Ft; h10am-6pm mid-Maymid-Sep, 10am- pp889) and is dominated by the Danubius
chance of a crash course in Hungarian viti- macy (1681), contains an unusual mixture 6pm Wed-Mon Marmid-May & mid-SepOct, 10am-4pm Gellrt Hotel (Map pp801), an Art-Nouveau
culture in the heart of the Castle District. of displays on medieval medicine, including Wed-Mon Nov-Feb), also known as the Castle pile (1918) and the citys favourite old-
But with over 700 wines on display from a mock-up of an alchemists laboratory. Museum (Vr Mzeum), traces the 2000 world hotel and spa.
Hungarys 22 wine regions and as many as years of the city on three floors of jum- Cave Chapel (Sziklakpolna; Map pp80-1; %385
55 to sample, crash may soon become the Royal Palace bled exhibits. Restored palace rooms dating 1529; h9am-8pm), on a small hill directly
operative word. The former Royal Palace (Budavri Palota; from the 15th century can be entered from north of the hotel, was built into a cave in
Map p83) has been burned, bombed, razed, the basement, which contains an exhibit on 1926. It was the seat of the Pauline order
Matthias Church rebuilt and redesigned at least a half-dozen the Royal Palace in medieval Buda. until 1951, when the priests were arrested
Parts of the Matthias Church (Mtys-templom; times over the past seven centuries. Bla IV In the basement three vaulted halls, one and imprisoned by the communists, and the
Map p83; % 355 5657; www.matyas-templom.hu; established a royal residence here in the mid- with a magnificent Renaissance door frame cave sealed off. It was reopened in 1992 and
I Szenthromsg tr 2; adult/child/family 600/300/1000Ft, 13th century and subsequent kings either in red marble bearing the seal of Queen reconsecrated. The chapel is closed to the
audioguide 300Ft; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat, rebuilt their own residences or added on to Beatrice and tiles with a raven and a ring public during Mass services.
1-5pm Sun) date back some 500 years, notably them. The palace was destroyed in the bat- (the seal of her husband King Matthias Gellrt tr can be reached from Pest on
the carvings above the southern entrance. tle to rout the Turks in 1686; the Habsburgs Corvinus), lead to the Gothic Hall, the Royal bus 7 or tram 47 or 49, and from the Buda
But basically the church (so named because rebuilt it, but spent very little time here. Cellar and the 14th-century Tower Chapel. side on bus 86 and tram 18 or 19.
King Matthias Corvinus married Beatrix Today the Royal Palace contains not royal On the ground floor is an exhibit entitled
here in 1474) is a neo-Gothic creation de- residences but two museums (the Hungarian Budapest in the Middle Ages as well as Citadella
signed by the architect Frigyes Schulek in National Gallery and the Budapest History Gothic statues discovered during excava- The Citadella (Map pp80-1; % 365 6076; www
1896. In April 2005 the government began Museum) and the National Szchenyi Library. tions in 1974. The exhibit on the 1st floor .citadella.hu; h24hr) is a fortress that never
a US$20 million restoration of the church There are two entrances to the Royal Budapest in Modern Times traces the did battle. Built by the Habsburgs after the
that will last two years. Palace. The first is via the Habsburg Steps, history of the city from the expulsion of 184849 War of Independence to defend
Steps to the right of the main altar inside southeast of Szent Gyrgy tr and through the Turks in 1686 to Hungarys entry into the city from further insurrection, by the
the church lead to the crypt. The Matthias an ornamental gateway dating from 1903. the EU. On the 2nd floor the exhibits reach time it was ready (1851) the political cli-
Church Collection of Ecclesiastical Art (Mtys-tem- The other way in is via Corvinus Gate (h6am- way back Budapest from prehistoric times mate had changed and the Citadella had
plom Egyhzmvszeti Gyjtemnye; Map p83; %488 midnight), with its big black raven symbolising to the arrival of the Avars in the late 6th become obsolete. It was given to the city
0717), which is included in the church admis- King Matthias Corvinus, southwest of the century. in the 1890s and parts of it were symbol-
sion fee, has ornate monstrances, reliquar- square. ically blown to pieces. Today the Citadella
ies, chalices and other church plates, as well The Hungarian National Gallery (Magyar Nemzeti GELLRT HILL & THE TABN contains some big guns and dusty displays
as a copy of the coronation regalia. There Galria; Map p83; %201 9082, 06 20 439 7325; Royal Pal- Gellrt-hegy (Map p83), a 235m-high in the central courtyard, the new 1944 Wax-
are some interesting views of the chancel ace, Wings B, C & D; admission free, special exhibitions adult/ rocky hill southeast of the Castle District, works (1944 Panoptkum; Map pp80-1; %279 1963;
from high up in the Royal Oratory. child/family 1500/800/3000Ft; h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) is crowned with a fortress of sorts and the admission 1200Ft; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat,
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8am-9pm Sun) inside a bunker used during main transport hubs. In the Middle Ages M2 and the HV suburban line to Szenten- Ottoman Dervish who took part in the cap-
WWII, a hotel/hostel (p105), a restaurant those involved in trades, crafts and fishing dre. On the southern side is St Annes Church ture of Buda in 1541, and is known in Hun-
and a dance club. lived here. Under the Turks many of the (Szent Ana templom; Map p83; II Batthyny tr 7), with gary as the Father of Roses. To reach it from
To get here from Pest cross Elizabeth districts churches were used as mosques, one of the loveliest baroque interiors of any Trk utca, which runs parallel to Frankel
Bridge and take the stairs leading up be- and baths were built, one of which is still church in Budapest. Le t, walk west along steep (and cobbled)
hind the statue of St Gellrt, or cross Inde- functioning. Vzivros is today the heart of A couple of streets north is Nagy Imre Gl Baba utca to the set of steps just past No
pendence Bridge and follow Verejtk utca urban Buda. tr (Map pp801), with the enormous Mili- 16. You can also reach here along Mecset
through the park starting at the Cave Chapel. You can reach Vzivros on foot from the tary Court of Justice (Map pp80-1; II F utca 70-78) utca, which runs north from Margit utca.
Bus 27 runs almost to the top of the hill from metro M2 Batthyny tr stop by walking on the northern side. Here Imre Nagy and The tomb is a pilgrimage place for Muslims,
Mricz Zsigmond krtr, southwest of the south along the river or via tram 19, which others were tried and sentenced to death especially from Turkey, and you must re-
Danubius Gellrt Hotel (and accessible on links the neighbourhood with Szent Gellrt in 1958 (see p32). It was also the site of the move your shoes before entering. Theres a
trams 18, 19, 47 and 49). tr. Bus 16 from Dek Ferenc tr stops here notorious F utca prison, where many other pleasant caf here with fine views.
on its way to/from Castle Hill. victims of the regime were incarcerated and
Independence Monument tortured. BUDA
The Independence Monument (Szabadsg- Clark dm tr The Kirly Baths (Kirly Gygyfrd; Map pp80-1; II F means ancient in Hungarian; as its
szobor; Map pp801), the lovely lady Clark dm tr (Map p83) is named after utca 82-86), parts of which date from 1580, are name suggests, buda is the oldest part of
with the palm frond proclaiming freedom the 19th-century Scottish engineer who su- one block to the north (see p97). Across ped- Buda. The Romans settled at Aquincum
throughout the city, is to the east of the pervised the building of the Szchenyi Chain estrianised Ganz utca is the Greek Catholic north of here (see p21) and when the Mag-
Citadella. Some 14m high, it was erected in Bridge (Szchenyi lnchd; Map p83), lead- St Florian Chapel (Szent Florin kpolna; Map pp80-1; II F yars arrived, they named it Buda, which
1947 in tribute to the Soviet soldiers who ing from the square, and who designed the utca 88-90), built in 1760 and dedicated to the became buda when the Royal Palace was
died liberating Budapest in 1945. tunnel (alagt; Map p83) under Castle Hill, patron saint of fire-fighters. built on Castle Hill.
which took eight months to carve out of You can reach the heart of buda on the
Statues & Bridges the limestone. The bridge was actually the Millennium Park HV commuter train get off at the rpd
The Elizabeth Bridge (Erzsbet hd; Map idea of Count Istvn Szchenyi see p171 One of the more successful urban redevelop- hd stop from Batthyny tr, which is on
p86) is the gleaming white (though rather and when it opened in 1849 it was unique ment projects on either side of the Danube the M2 metro line, or bus 86 from F utca
generic-looking) suspension bridge north- for two reasons: it was the first dry link in the past decade, Millennium Park (Millenris and other points along the Danube on the
east of Gellrt Hill. It enjoys a special place between Buda and Pest; and the aristoc- Park; Map pp80-1; %438 5312; www.millenaris.hu; II Kis Buda side. If youre near City Park (Vros-
in the hearts of Budapesters, as it was the racy, previously exempt from all taxation, Rkus utca 16-20 & Lvhz utca 37; h6am-1am; mM2 liget) in Pest, walk southeast to the intersec-
first newly designed bridge to reopen after had to pay the toll like everybody else. Moszkva tr, j4 or 6) is a large landscaped com- tion of Hungria krt and Thkly t and
WWII (1964). The curious sculpture, which looks like an plex behind the Mammut shopping mall catch the No 1 tram, which avoids Buda and
Looking down on Elizabeth Bridge from elongated doughnut, hidden in the bushes comprising fountains, ponds, little bridges, crosses rpd Bridge into buda.
Gellrt Hill is the St Gellrt statue (Map p83), to the south is the 0km stone (Map p83); all a theatre and the Millennium Exhibition Hall
an Italian missionary invited to Hungary by Hungarian roads to and from the capital (Millenris Killtcsarnok; %438 5335; admission varies; Florin tr & Surrounds
King Stephen to convert the natives. The are measured from this exact spot. h10am-6pm or 8pm), which hosts some un- Florin tr (Map pp789), split in two by
monument marks the spot where the bishop usual cultural exhibits. the rpd Bridge flyover and encircled by
was hurled to his death in a spiked barrel F utca mammoth housing blocks, is not the best
in 1046 by pagan Hungarians resisting the F utca (Map p83) is the Main Street run- Frankel Le t introduction to buda, but it remains the
new faith. ning through Vzivros and dates from At Bem tr, F utca turns into Frankel Le districts historic centre.
To the north of the bridge and through Roman times. At the former Capuchin church t, a tree-lined street of antique shops and The yellow baroque buda Parish Church
the underpass is a Queen Elizabeth statue (Map (Map p83; I F utca 30-32), used as a mosque during boutiques. At its northern end is the Lukcs (budai plbniatemplom; Map pp78-9; III 168 Lajos utca),
p86), the Habsburg empress and Hungar- the Turkish occupation, you can see the re- Baths (Lukcs Gygyfrd; Map pp80-1; II Frankel Le t 25- built in 1749 and dedicated to Sts Peter and
ian queen. The consort of Franz Joseph, mains of two Islamic-style ogee-arched doors 29; j17, g60 or 86), which caters to an older Paul, dominates the easternmost side of
she was much-loved by Magyars because, and windows on the southern side. Around and quite serious crowd of bath enthusiasts Flrin tr. Theres a massive rococo pulpit
among other things, she learned to speak the corner theres the seal of King Matthias (see p97). A short distance north and tucked inside. To the south, the large neoclassical
Hungarian. Sissi, as she was affectionately Corvinus a raven and a ring and the lit- away in an apartment block is the jlak Syna- building beside the Corinthia Aquincum
known, was assassinated by an Italian tle square with the delightful Louis Fountain gogue (jlaki zsinagga; Map pp80-1; II Frankel Le t 49), Hotel is the former buda Synagogue (budai
anarchist in Geneva in 1898. (Lajos ktja; 1904) is called Corvin tr. The built in 1888 on the site of an older prayer zsinagga; Map pp78-9; III Lajos utca 163), dating from
Eclectic building on the north side is the house and not open to the public. 1821. It now houses the sound studios of
VZIVROS Buda Concert Hall (Budai Vigad; Map p83; Corvin tr 8). MTV (Hungarian TV).
Vzivros (Watertown; Map p83 and Map Batthyny tr (Map p83 and Map pp80 Tomb of Gl Baba Opposite, the Budapest Gallery Exhibition
pp801) is the narrow area between the 1), a short distance to the northeast, is the The overly reconstructed Tomb of Gl Baba House (Budapest Galria Killthza; Map pp78-9;
Danube and Castle Hill that widens as it centre of Vzivros and the best place to (Gl Baba trbje; Map pp80-1; %326 0062; II Trbe tr 1; %388 6771; III Lajos utca 158; adult/child 400/200Ft;
approaches buda to the north and Rzsa- snap a picture of the Parliament building adult/child/student 500/250/500Ft; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) hosts some of the most
domb (Rose Hill) to the northwest, spread- across the river. In the centre of this rather 10am-4pm Nov-Feb; HV station Margit hd, j4, 6 or 17) interesting avant-garde exhibitions in town.
ing as far west as Moszkva tr, one of Budas shabby square is the entrance to both metro contains the remains of one Gl Baba, an It also has a standing exhibit of works by
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Pl Ptzay, whose sculptures can be seen The Imre Varga Exhibition House (Varga Imre unusual conveyances, the Buda Hills (Map Margaret Island
throughout the city (eg the fountain on killthza; Map pp78-9; %250 0274; III Laktanya utca 7; p77) are the citys playground and a wel- Neither Buda nor Pest, 2.5km-long Margaret
Trnok utca in Budas Castle District and adult/child 250/100Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), part of come respite from hot, dusty Pest in the Island (Margit-sziget; Map pp801 and Map
the Serpent Slayer in honour of Raoul Wal- the Budapest Gallery, includes sculptures, warmer months; some families actually pp789) in the middle of the Danube River
lenberg in Szent Istvn Park in Pest). statues, medals and drawings by Varga have summer homes here. If youre plan- was always the domain of one religious order
To explore the Roman Military Amphitheatre (1923), one of Hungarys foremost sculp- ning to ramble, take along a copy of Car- or another until the Turks came and turned
(Rmai katonai amfitetrum; Map pp78-9; Pacsirtamez utca), tors, who seems to have sat on both sides of tographias 1:30,000 A Budai-hegysg map what was then called the Island of Rabbits
built in the 2nd century for the garrisons, the fence politically for decades sculpting (No 6; 900Ft). Apart from the Bla Bartk into appropriately enough a harem, from
archaeology and classical history buffs tak- Bla Kun and Lenin as dextrously as he Memorial House, under renovation at the which all infidels were barred. Its been a
ing bus 86 to Flrin tr should get off at did St Stephen, Bla Bartk and even Imre time of writing, there are few sights, though public park open to everyone since the mid-
Nagyszombat utca (for HV passengers, its Nagy (p91). En route to the museum from you might want to poke your head in one of 19th century.
the Tmr utca stop), about 800m south of F tr, youll pass some of Vargas work: the Buda Hills pair of caves (p99). Cross over to Margaret Island from
Flrin tr. The amphitheatre could accom- a group of odd metal sculptures of rather With all the unusual transport options, Pest or Buda via trams 4 or 6. Bus 26 cov-
modate up to 15,000 people and was larger worried-looking women holding umbrellas heading for the hills is more than half the ers the length of the island as it makes the
than the Colosseum in Rome. The rest of the in the middle of the road. fun. From the Moszkva tr metro station on run between Nyugati train station (Nyugati
military camp extended north to Flrin tr. the M2 line in Buda, walk westward along plyaudvar) and rpd Bridge bus station.
Housed in an 18th-century monastery, AQUINCUM Szilgyi Erzsbet fasor for 10 minutes (or Cars are allowed on Margaret Island from
later a barracks that was badly damaged in The most complete Roman civilian town in take tram 18 or 56 for two stops) to the rpd Bridge only as far as the two big hotels
WWII and again in 1956, to the southwest Hungary and now a museum, Aquincum circular high-rise Hotel Budapest at Szilgyi at the northeastern end; the rest is reserved
of Flrin tr, the exhibits at the Kiscell Mu- (Map pp789) had paved streets and fairly Erzsbet fasor 47. Directly opposite is the for pedestrians, cyclists and horse-drawn
seum (Kiscelli Mzeum; Map pp78-9; %388 8560, 250 sumptuous single-storey houses with court- terminus of the Cog Railway (Fogaskerek vast; carriages.
0304; III Kiscelli utca 108; adult/child 600/300Ft; h10am- yards, fountains and mosaic floors, as well Map p77; %355 4167; admission 1 BKV ticket; hup
6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar; j17, g60) as sophisticated drainage and heating sys- 5am-11pm, down 5.20am-11.30pm). Built in 1874, MEDIEVAL RUINS
attempt to tell the story (from the human tems. Not all that is easily apparent today the cog climbs for 3.6km in about 16 min- The ruins of the Franciscan church and mon-
side) of Budapest since liberation from the as you walk among the ruins, but you can utes to Szchenyi-hegy (427m), one of the astery (Ferences templom s kolostor; Map
Turks. The museum counts among its best see its outlines, as well as those of the big prettiest residential areas in the city. pp801) no more than a tower and a
exhibits a complete 19th-century apoth- public baths, the market, an early-Christian At Szchenyi-hegy, you can stop for a pic- wall dating from the late 13th century
ecary moved here from Klvin tr, ancient church and a temple dedicated to the god nic in the attractive park south of the old-time are almost in the exact geographical centre
signboards advertising shops and other con- Mithra. Across the road to the northwest is station or board the narrow-gauge Childrens of Margaret Island. The Habsburg arch-
cerns, and rooms furnished in Empire, Bie- the Roman Civilian Amphitheatre (Rmai polgri am- Railway (Gyermekvast; Map p77; %397 5394; adult/ duke Joseph built a summer residence here
dermeier and Art-Nouveau furniture and fitetrum; Map pp78-9; Szentendrei t), about half the child 300/100Ft; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.45am-5.30pm when he inherited the island in 1867. It
bric-a-brac. The Municipal Gallery (Fvrosi size of the one reserved for the garrison. Sat & Sun mid-Marlate Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm was later converted into a hotel that oper-
Kptr), with its impressive art collection You can reach Aquincum on the HV Sat & Sun late Octmid-Mar), two minutes to the ated until 1949.
(Jzsef Rippl-Rnai, Lajos Tihanyi, Istvn (Aquincum stop) or on bus 34 or 42 from south on Hegyht t. The railway was built The former Dominican convent (Domonkos
Csk, Bla Czbel etc) is housed upstairs. Szentllek tr. in 1951 by Pioneers (socialist Scouts) and kolostor; Map pp789) lies to the northeast
The Aquincum Museum (Aquincumi Mzeum; is staffed entirely by schoolchildren aged of the Franciscan church and monastery.
Szentllek tr & F tr Map pp78-9; %250 1650, 430 1081; www.aquincum.hu; 10 to 14 the engineer excepted. The little It was built by Bla IV, whose scribes played
Two contiguous squares lying east of III Szentendrei t 139; archaeological park adult/ train chugs along for 12km, terminating at an important role in the continuation of
Flrin tr Szentllek tr (Holy Spirit Sq; child 400/150Ft, park & museum adult/child/family Hvsvlgy (Chilly Valley). There are walks Hungarian scholarship. Its most famous
Map pp789), a transport hub, and F tr 700/300/1200Ft; h park 9am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, fanning out from any of the stops along the resident was Blas own daughter, St Mar-
(Main Sq; Map pp789), a quiet restored 9am-5pm Tue-Sun 15-30 Apr & Oct, museum 10am-6pm way, or you can return to Moszkva tr on garet (124271). As the story goes, the king
square of baroque houses, public buildings Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun 15-30 Apr & Oct), in tram 56 from Hvsvlgy. The train oper- promised to commit his daughter to a life of
and restaurants contain budas most the centre of what remains of this Roman ates about once an hour (every 45 minutes devotion in a nunnery if the Mongols were
important museums. civilian settlement, puts the ruins in per- on weekends in season). driven from the land. They were and she
The Vasarely Museum (Map pp78-9; % 388 spective with some success. Most of the big A more interesting way down from the was at nine years of age. Still, she seemed
7551; III Szentllek tr 6; admission free, temporary exhib- sculptures and stone sarcophagi are outside hills, though, is to get off at Jnos-hegy, the to enjoy it if were to believe the Lives
itions adult/child 400/200Ft; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun), to the left of the museum or behind it in the fourth stop on the Childrens Railway and of the Saints especially the mortification-
housed in the crumbling Zichy Mansion, is lapidary. Look out for the replica of a 3rd- the highest point (527m) in the hills. About of-the-flesh parts and never bathing above
devoted to the works of Victor Vasarely (or century portable organ called a hydra (and 700m due east is the chairlift (libeg; %394 3764; her ankles. St Margaret, not canonised
Vsrhelyi Gyz before he emigrated to the mosaic illustrating how it was played) adult/child 450/200Ft; h9.30am-5pm mid-Maymid-Sep, until 1943, commands something of a cult
Paris in 1930), the late Father of Op Art. and the mock-up of a Roman bath. 9.30am-4pm mid-Sepmid-May), which will take you following in Hungary. A red marble sepul-
The works are excellent and fun to watch down to Zugligeti t. (Note the chairlift is chre cover surrounded by a wrought-iron
as they swell and move around the canvas. BUDA HILLS closed on the Monday of every even-numbered grille marks her original resting place, and
On the 1st floor are exhibits of works by With peaks reaching over 500m, a com- week.) From here bus 158 returns to Mosz- theres a much visited shrine with votives
Hungarian artists working abroad. prehensive system of trails and no lack of kva tr (last one just after 10.15pm). nearby.


0 2 km
76 B U D A P E S T S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com BUDAPEST & ENVIRONS 77

0 1 mile

buda, Aquincum & Angyalfld (pp789)

To Esztergom (46km); Csillaghegy
Komrom (85km) A 10
B To Szentendre C To Vc
F D

BUDAPEST

Bp-rm (11km) (26km) ti

v Aranyhegy Rmaifrd t
ISLAND ON THE GO

jpest

Vci t
11
buda v

The Romans used mineral springs as both drinking water and therapy, and so do the modern Aquincum IV
Aquincum fels vm 1
2
Magyars. Kristlyvz, one of the more popular brands of mineral water in Hungary, is sourced and Kaszsdl
bottled here, and the thermal spa at the Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget (p97), to the northeast,

Bcs

r
Rive
is one of the most modern spas in Budapest.

i t
Aquincum jpest-Vroskapu
Np sziget
You can hire a bicycle from one of several stands, including Stacikli (Map pp80-1; %06 30 966

ube
Hrmashatr- To Gdll (24km);
hegy (495m) II Kaszsdl Gyngys (69km);
6453; 3-speed per 30min/hr/day 400/600/1800Ft, pedal coach per hr for 3/5 people 1800/2700Ft; h10am-dusk

Dan
Filatorigt Istvntelek Miskolc (179km)

Mar-Oct), which is on the western side just before the athletic stadium as you walk from Margaret

ndrei t

Angyalfld
Fels-Kecske- buda Island v
Bridge. Bringhint (Map pp78-9; %329 2073, 06 30 881 0983; www.bringohinto.hu; mountain bike per 30min/ hegy (443m) Tbor-hegy (budai-sziget)
Gyngysi u

Hr gyi t
he

Szente
(396m)
hr 590/990Ft, pedal coach for 4 people 1480/3380Ft, inline skates 880/1480Ft; h8am-dusk) rents equipment V

ma
Remetehgy r

sha
sv
ri
from the refreshment stand near the Japanese Garden in the north of the island.

t
t

r-
Remete-hegy III Forgch u

eu
A twirl around the island in one of the horse-drawn coaches (Map pp789), stationed just (351m)
BUDA
rpd hd
2

Bk
Buda Hills Angyalfld

t
south of the Bringhint bike-rental stand, costs from about 2000Ft per person.

Vci
XIII

Sz
Mtys-hegy

pv
u (300m) Tmr u

lg
pk XIV

To Chairlift & Zugligeti
Csep rpd

yi
Niche Camping jlak R

t
(2km); T 1 hd be
rk F Cs atrka t rt
WATER TOWER & OPEN-AIR THEATRE Ferenciek tere, which divides the Inner Hvsvlgy vs
Vzafog K

t
z Buda & Pest (pp802)

i
(2.5km); 2 Zldml ro

Lajos
Szpvlgyi t ly

r
t
The octagonal water tower (vztorony; Map Town at Szabadsajt t (Free Press Avenue), Petnehzy Ferenc-hegy kr

m
Dzsa t Rkosrendez
Lovascentrum (3km) (265m) Margaret Island

Cs
Gyrgy t
pp789), erected in 1911 in the north- is on the M3 metro line and can be reached (Margit-sziget)

u
H

py
Na

t
Trkvsz Lportrdl gy To Favorit
central part of the island, rises 66m above by bus 7 from Buda or points east in Pest. T

sv

Ka
ro Felhvz Laj

l
u

Vci
t gat Vrhalom os Lovarda

gy
ron he
lu Mexiki t kir

i
r (5km)
the open-air theatre (szabadtri sznpad; %340 4883), Le
Szchenyi aly

t
Szh o Rzsadomb
5 b

Pa
t er G Herminamez t t frd

sa

ja
which is used for opera, plays and concerts Around Egyetem tr 6 Margit
l
y

rt
Budakeszi t Hsk

Hu
Sz Central Pest (pp845)
hd k

i
il Rzmal tere

ng
in summer. The tower now houses the Look- The centre of the Inner Town south of Sza- gy City Park Th

t
3

r
iE Nyugati Train Bajza t (Vrosliget)

ia
rzs BUDA VI
Station sy

kr
b
out Gallery (Killt Galria; %340 4520; adult/child badsajt t is Egyetem tr (University Sq; utca

D
Ktvlgyi t s Zugl Train

t
et Kodly dr t

zs
fasr Station
Castle Hill & Watertown (p83) Liptvros krnd An i

aG
d
200/100Ft; h11am-7pm May-Oct), which exhibits Map p86), a five-minute walk south along 3 Terzvros VII
yo
r

y
Kossuth
Moszkva Vrsmarty og

rg
Children's Railway
some interesting folk craft and contem- Kroly Mihly utca from Ferenciek tere. The Vzivros Lajos tr

y
Isten tr utca M
Batthyny V Arany Oktogon PEST Ferenc

t
he
porary art on the ground floor. But the main squares name refers to the branch of the t gyi tr Jnos Pusks To Gdll (27km);
To Szchenyi- utca VIII Keleti Stadium Miskolc (179km)
Train
reason for entering is to climb the 153 steps prestigious Lornd Etvs Science University (ELTE; Dli

hegy (1.2km) Belvros (Inner Town) Erzsbet- Station
Train vros Stadionok

(pp867)
for a stunning 360-degree view of the island, Map p86; V Egyetem tr 1-3). Next to the university Etvs Station Kerepesi t

Alb
7

Strom
t Royal

Hungria krt

ertir
IVrsmarty
Buda and Pest from the cupola terrace. building to the west is the University Church, a Palace Dek

Alkots u

t Blaha Lujza

feld A
Ferenc tr

Fiu

sai
tr i tr
Pag cz
lovely baroque structure built in 1748. Over

me
ony Rk

t
u Belvros X

url

i
Jzsefvros
Pest the altar inside is a copy of the Black Madonna Astoria Ligettelek

t
Ferenciek

Jzsef krt
Tabn

t
tere Jzsefvrosi pu
Farkasrt
While Buda can often feel like a garden, of Czstochowa so revered in Poland.

t

4

jt
Nmetvlgy Gellrt-hegy Klvin tr

Le
Pest is an urban jungle, with a wealth of ar- Leafy Kecskemti utca runs southeast

Citadella South Buda & Ferencvros (pp889)
IX Ferenc krt
chitecture, museums, historic buildings and from the square to Klvin tr (Map p86). At Farkasrti temet

Da
ll

Orczy t
XII i

krt
nu
t
broad boulevards that are unmatched on the the end of it, near the Korona Hotel, theres a

Da
Trkblinti t

n
Klinikk

be
Vil

yka

lm
ln
other side of the Danube. And while theres plaque marking the location of the Kecskemt

Ri
yi

sK
8 Ferencvros

G
t

ve
Borros tr

yve
bo

r
nothing like the Buda Hills here, theres no Gate (Kecskemti-kapu), part of the medieval

Kn
ru
INFORMATION Nagyvrad Npliget
Sasad

t
i
shortage of open green spaces either City city wall that was pulled down in the 1700s. Slovenian Consulate...........................1 A2 Haller u tr
Npliget

rs
ll
Park (Map pp801) at the end of Andrssy Rday utca (Map p86 and Map pp801), South African Embassy.......................2 A2

da
Ga
i

Sa
t

Bu
zd
krt

sa

Ecseri t
ag
XI National n
t is the largest park in Budapest. which leads south from Klvin tr and is
di
ti lm
r
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp69101) Theatre

t
t Knyves K

t
Cog Railway Terminus........................3 A3
full of cafs, clubs and restaurants, is where

eri
Statue Park........................................4 A6 Vghd v
To Gyr (123km); 5

Ecs
INNER TOWN university students and travellers entertain Vienna (275km) Kelenfoldi To Europark

So
t pu Market (2km);

ro
rsi
SLEEPING (pp1038)
The Inner Town (Belvros; Map p86) is the themselves these days. Kelenfld Lgymnyos Ferihegy International

ks
a
1 Bud Beatrix Panzo..................................(see 5)

ri
Airport (20km);
heart of Pest and has the most valuable com- IBS Garden Hotel................................5 A3 Bethy u f vm Debrecen (226km)

t
M1 M7

t
7
mercial real estate in the city. The area north Along Vci utca

Szabadkikt t
ki t
Szermi
EATING (pp10915)
To Ecseri Piac (2km);
of Ferenciek tere is full of flashy boutiques The best way to see the posher side of the To Sifok (106km); Remz.................................................6 A3

Budafo
t
Jzsef Bozsik Stadium (2km);

vri
Lake Balaton Eg
ni t

r t Kecskemt (72km)
and well-touristed bars and restaurants; youll Inner Town is to walk up pedestrian Vci utca, ENTERTAINMENT (pp11620) t

Fehr
Kelenvlgy M5
r
Balato

5
hear more German, Italian, Spanish and Eng- the capitals premier and most expensive International Buda Stage..................(see 5)
Albertfalva Csepel Island H a t
E75
Kincsem Park..................................... 7 D4
lish spoken here than Hungarian. The neigh- shopping street, with designer clothes, ex- (Csepel-sziget)
Pesterzsbet
Pterhegy
bourhood south of Ferenciek tere was until pensive jewellery shops, pubs and some TRANSPORT (pp1227)
Queenybus........................................8 A4
Szabadkikt vm

recently studenty, quieter and much more bookshops for browsing. This was the total
Budafok- 6
local. Now parts of it, too, have been reserved length of Pest in the Middle Ages. To gain Rzsavlgy Albertfalva
falu
To Rckeve
v (36km)
for pedestrians, and there is no shortage of 7

trendy pubs, cafs and restaurants. (Continued on page 90) 4

To Szzhalombatta (16km);
Sifok (106km);
6
To Fox Autorent (2km); Balzs & Friends Cyclists'
Pesterzsbet vm
To Kecskemt (72km);
Sports Association (2.5km); Anselport (3km); Baja (132km)
Lake Balaton Sifok (106km); Lake Balaton
 78

BUDA, AQUINCUM & ANGYALFLD
6 Csillaghegy
15
0
0



0.5 miles
1 km
79

t
os dlpar
F
A B C D E F ti
t
G H

tja

t
ri
ye
Kiralyok

Kossuth Laj

eg
M

20 INFORMATION
1 Rozgonyi 35 Hungarian Federation of Disabled 1
2
Piroska u
Rmaifrd Persons' Associations......................1 B4

17 Slovak Consulate............................... 2 H6
29
11 Monostor
i t

Aranyhegy SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp735)

Szentend
Aquincum Museum............................3 C2

Bringhint Bike Rentals.................... 4 D5

rt
Budapest Gallery Exhibition House.....5 C5

Rmai pa
rei t

buda v Csillaghegy Swimming Complex.........6 C1

budai temet jpest Dagly Swimming Complex............... 7 D5

Nnsi t
Former Dominican Convent............... 8 D6

Vci t
Aquincum Former buda Synagogue.................9 C5
Horse-Drawn Coaches..................... 10 C5

21
Aquincum Imre Varga Exhibition House............11 C4
fels vm Imre Varga Sculptures...................... 12 C4
Pk u
2 Kaszsdl Keled t jpe Japanese Garden.............................. 13 D5 2
Krolyi
(jpe st Rail Bri Istvn Kiscell Museum & Municipal Gallery ..14 B5
3 sti va d u
sti h ge

Istvn t
10 d) KSH Canoe Club...............................15 E1

r u
Lookout Gallery..............................(see 25)

Jzsef At

zgy
tila u
buda Parish Church....................... 16 C5

G
Zhon
yu buda Sport Club.............................17 E1
rpd t

t
Palatinus Strand............................... 18 C6

rei
tja
Bcs

Plvlgy Cave.................................. 19 A5

t)
tend
unda
i t

jpest-Vroskapu Rmaifrd Strandfrd...................20 D1

ik

t
Bojtr
u

Szen

Istvn
li k
Roman Civilian Amphitheatre...........21 C2
Kunig

Aquincum

(T
People's Island Roman Military Amphitheatre..........22 C5
(Np-sziget) Szeml-hegy Cave........................... 23 A6

our
Thermal Bath.................................(see 26)

arb




Vasarely Museum............................ 24 C4

u
Tl u

rH
der
Water Tower...................................
Elem 25 C6

nte
Du

Me
3 u 3

Po
Wi
BUDA go
Kaszsdl ni

zs
ti t

cs SLEEPING (pp1038)

on
u

yi
Fa

Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget.. 26 D5

Istvntelek
Husz

u
rk

Filatorigt Szeksz Danubius Thermal Hotel Margitsziget

at

rdi u K
or

t
m & Thermal Bath............................27 D5
ki

to

Vci
t

ru Flandria Hotel...................................28 F6
33
Rmai Camping................................29 C1
Duna Plaza Angyalfld

Mjus 9 park Shopping Mall v EATING (pp10911)
i t Med Corinthia Aquincum Hotel................ 30 C5
viz Megg er u
H yfa u Gyn
gysi
Gyngysi u u Khli ................................................31 C5
Bab
u

ru Kisbuda Gyngye ............................32 B5

Vihar

buda Island
t

Rakt ENTERTAINMENT (pp11620)

H ru (budai-sziget)
ndrei

Ve uno Mokka Cuka.................................... 33 D3

er

le r u
Laktanya u

Kucsm
Riv

4 nc Thalm Open-Air Theatre............................. 34 C6 4

Szente

au

eu
e ann
u u UTE Stadium.....................................35 F1

Bk
ube
Bcsi t

r Vizafog u
Vradi u TRANSPORT (pp1227)
Dan

sv
Remetehegy K Vrskereszt u 11
ri Tahi u
t
rh Vizafog u Roko rpd Bridge Bus Station..................36 E5
u

12
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0 1 km
80 BUDA & PEST 0 0.5 miles 81

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0 300 m
82 BUDA & PEST (pp801) CASTLE HILL & WATERTOWN 0 0.2 miles 83
Retek u

Dekn u
32

F u
Szna

Gyorskocsi u
42 Hat Csalogny
tr ty 2
A u B C D

Os
Moszkva
ny u

tro
INFORMATION Millenary Monument..................33 F2 Malomt.................................... 67 C2 Moszkva tr
44 Batthy Batthyny u Parliament

m
tr

t
Australian Embassy...................... 1 A4 Millennium Exhibition Hall..........34 B3 Mongolian Barbecue.................. 68 A5 51

u
Toldy Ferenc u Mria Batthyny
u

ez
tr
Austrian Embassy..........................2 F3 Millennium Park..........................35 B3 Mri Kisvendgl....................... 69 D2 54 ny tr
y

rm
tth u 56
Canadian Embassy........................ 3 C3 Museum of Applied Arts.............36 E6 Napfnyes zek............................70 E3 Ba Szab Ilonka u l Batthyny 1

V
gy tr
Centre of Rural Tourism................4 E4 Museum of Fine Arts...................37 F2 Rkczi tr Market......................71 F5 Ka
Vrfok u Batthyny
Croatian Embassy..........................5 E2 Palace of Art (Mcsarnok)...........38 F2 Robinson.....................................72 F2

Pesti als rkp

Do
45 tr
Dli Gygyszertr......................... 6 A4 Raoul Wallenberg Memorial....... 39 D2

na
u Hu
ay Lovas t

ti u
nfa
Dutch Embassy.............................7 B2 St Florian Chapel........................ 40 C3 DRINKING (pp11516) tr 28 lvy 26
M u u
a Aranyhal

Krisztina krt
French Embassy.............................8 F2 Stacikli Bike Rental & Caf Rolling Rock.......................73 C1 bsty Bcsi kapu Watertown
jou
Pendragon.................................... 9 D2 Stadium...................................41 C2 Kultiplex......................................74 E6 An ann
trT
nc
(Vzivros)
22 erm sic Vm u
Post Office................................. 10 G4 Szchenyi Baths..........................42 F2 Paris, Texas.................................75 E6 Pet r u sM

At

u

Toldy
b rd u Zoltn u

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au

go

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tr 55 34 Szilgyi

sz
di

Fo
Romanian Embassy..................... 12 G3 Transport Museum..................... 44 G2 ENTERTAINMENT (pp116120)

Feren
Dezs tr

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rtu
gh
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Serbia & Montenegro Embassy...13 F2 jlak Synagogue.........................45 C1 Almssy tr Recreation Centre....76 E4

na
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th

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u
Ukrainian Consulate................... 14 G3 Budapest Congress Centre.......... 77 A5 21 Hess

u
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52

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ds
41 tr Corvin 2

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r
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Andrssy Hotel...........................46 F3 Central Europe Dance Theatre....79 F3 17

iu
30 tr
14

ny
11

a
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp6996) Benczr Hotel..............................47 F3 Cha Cha Cha Terasz................... 80 C2

u
rd
29

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35 18

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8

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Complex................................. 16 C2 Dominik Panzi.......................... 50 G3 Hungria Stadium...................... 83 H5 Vrmez u
Ponty

Bem rkp
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Pesti al
47 12
Bla Komjdi Swimming Pool......17 C2 Hotel Baross................................51 F4 Kamleon.................................(see 91) Dli pu 43
u Hu
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s rkp
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Cave Chapel.............................. 19 D6 Hotel Csszr..............................52 C2 Marczibnyi tr Cultural 5 iJ
n

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mu Roosevelt
City Zoo & Botanical Garden.......21 F2 KM Saga Guest Residence...........54 E6 Municipal Great Circus................85 F2 T Jgvere 48

rkp
rn tr
Ferenc Hopp Museum of East Papillon Hotel.............................55 B2 Petfi Csarnok............................ 86 G2 ok 33 6
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46 Apor P
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Franciscan Church & Monastery Red Bus II Hostel.........................57 F4 SHOPPING (pp1202) Dsz tr Ro (S zch
3

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Ro
INFORMATION 40 58 57

Bud
tr 4
Helia Swimming & Spa Centre Bagolyvr....................................60 F2 Mammut II Shopping Mall..........91 B3 Budapest Tourist Office......................1 B2

ai als
13

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zk
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d
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Kirly Baths.................................30 C3 z- Faloda..................................63 B3 Malv Customer Service 0km Stone.........................................4 C3

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u 5 B3 ll
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ris
P N yu r

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Budapest History Museum................. 7 D4 ap lja

Vrk
F utca Prison.........................32 C3 Lehel Csarnok.............................66 E2 Szna tr Bus Station..................95 B3 he u 19
Capuchin Church...............................8 C2 gy
23 7 4

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p



Fishermens Bastion..........................11 C2 K
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au a l A
Habsburg Steps................................13 C3 Aranyszarvas.................................... 38 D5 t tat
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House of Hungarian Wines...............14 B2 den................................................39 D5 Ybl Mikls
tr

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Apr
ak

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iu
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Matthias Fountain............................19 C4 Nagyi Palacsintzja.........................45 C1 tr tyo

F u
Medieval Jewish Prayer House..........20 B2 Rivalda.............................................46 C3 Tabn
49
Museum of Hungarian Commerce & Ruszwurm.........................................47 B2 Hegeds 37
tu
Catering.......................................21 B2 Seoul House.....................................48 C3 esz kz
Ker Hadnagy u 5
Museum of Military History..............22 A2
National Szchenyi Library...............23 C4 DRINKING (pp11516) Heg 24
Rc Baths (Renovating)....................24 D5 Erzsbet-hd Eszpressz....................49 D5 yalja
t
Royal Palace.....................................25 C4 Lnchd Srz.................................50 C3 Dbrentei
St Annes Church..............................26 C1 Oscar American Bar..........................51 A1 tr
St Gellrt Statue............................... 27 D5
Gellrt-hegy
Turul Statue...................................(see 13) ENTERTAINMENT (pp116120) 27

Csa
Vienna Gate......................................28 B1 t Vigad)....52 C2
Buda Concert Hall a(Budai
lja mu

pu
National Dance e gy
Theatre ...................53 C3 Oro

An
H

tal
SLEEPING (pp1038)

u
Szir
Artotel Budapest.............................29 C2 SHOPPING (pp1202)

om
Budapest Hilton................................30 B2 Budapest Wine Society.....................54 A1
Burg Hotel........................................31 B2 Hungaricum......................................55 B2

u
Sz
irt
Bro Panzi......................................32 A1

es
Carlton Hotel...................................33 C3 TRANSPORT (pp1227)

t
6

u
Otthon u 34 C2
Hotel Astra....................................... Batthyny tr Ferry...........................56 C1

Brc
u
Hotel Kulturinnov.............................35 B2 Sikls (Lower Station).......................57 C3 ny
cs Citadella
Hotel Victoria...................................36 C2 Sikls (Upper Station).......................58 C3 Ko
Orion Hotel..................................... 37 D5 Tram Stop No 19............................. 59 D3
t
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irt
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 84
20
CENTRAL PEST
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0
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500 m
0.3 miles CENTRAL PEST 85

Ba
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nia

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Belvros-Liptvros Police Royal Postal Savings Bank...........30 B3 Teahz a Vrs Oroszlnhoz...... 65 C3

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Station........................................1 A2 Soviet Army Memorial................ 31 A3

u
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lan
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13 87 nt I
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60 BKV Lost & Found Office............. 2 D4 Yellow Zebra Bikes......................32 B3 DRINKING (pp11516)

u
n

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krt 47 K
81 d
Budapest Tourist Office.................3 B1 Becketts......................................66 B2

ty
ru
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et
u

Km
Sz
64 Budapest Tourist Office Oktogon SLEEPING (pp1038) Darshan Udvar........................... 67 D6

iny
u

ei
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du
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3 Sz Ar Cartographia.................................5 B3 Caterina Hostel........................... 34 C2
Honv

se
u
Sz
61
ere u

70 u

u
Balassi

v
ky Csillag Patika................................ 6 D4 Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel...... 35 D3 ENTERTAINMENT (pp116120)
Falk M

Stollr B 59
icz

u
la u

R
an
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Honvd 52 12 Electric Caf................................. 7 D4 Garibaldi Guesthouse & Angel......................................... 69 C5

zs
tr dm Kodly

a
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Po 79 Irish Embassy................................8 B3 Apartments............................ 36 A3 Bank Dance Hall..........................70 B1

u
V
krnd

be

Mark u

lla
Terzvros Libri Knyvpalota......................... 9 C5 Hostel Marco Polo ..................... 37 D4 Budapest Operetta.....................71 C3

sm
J

u
ka
nos u

ar
Liptvros
u

33 Narancs...................................... 10 D4 Hotel Hold..................................38 B3 Budapest Puppet Theatre........... 72 D2

ty
iu
Nagy I

iu

u
t

Cs
Szalay u ob National Federation of Rural & Hotel Medosz.............................39 C3 Comedy Theatre.........................73 A1
Bihari J

en
Szalay Sz ss

ge
u 44 r

Sz
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v
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1

tv
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66 18 85 Post Office..................................12 B1 Residence Izabella...................... 41 D2 Hungarian State Opera House....75 C3

s
14

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2 iu

kr

u
ad 53

t
Kossuth Alkotmn
yu u Ar R
Sznyi Antikvriuma...................13 A1 Liszt Academy of Music.............. 76 D3
29 Lajos e rL Vrsmarty 72 zs Terz Patika............................... 14 C2 EATING (pp109115) Mvsz....................................(see 34)
a
ein utca
Kozma F u

tr u
Klmn Imre u W 23 Trkpkirly................................15 B3 Butterfly.....................................42 C3 rkmozg Film Museum.......... 77 D3
Honvd u

22

u 48
19 g u Ticket Express Jzsefvros Caf Vian................................... 43 C3 Piaf.............................................78 C3
va
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u

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54
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ka

sm
De Sz

iu

Cs

ar
US Embassy................................17 B3 Frici Papa Kifzdje.....................45 C3 Sark............................................ 80 C4
Vadsz u

en

ty
Hunyadi u
Na

62 26
ly
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ge

Iza
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Hrom Testvr........................... 46 D4

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Vodafone.................................(see 90) Sss Fl Nap...............................81 A1
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tr
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u

tv

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39
j

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u
s
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lich

42

lla
Hrom Testvr.............................47 B1 Symphony Ticket Office............. 82 C3
ez
su

Lajos tr y 5 78 Oktogon

u
u
Au

u 49
Garibaldi
u

ru

50 31 Jkai SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp69101) Hrom Testvr............................48 C2 Szimpla Kert............................... 83 C5

s

36
oz

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r
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30 38 y tr 43 Debrecen Summer University......20 A1 Kdr......................................... 51 D4 SHOPPING (pp12022)

Cs
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86 Ethnography Museum................ 21 A2 Kaisers Supermarket...................52 B1 Ajka Kristly............................... 85 C2
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3 27

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a
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76

u
92

ry

be
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u
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m
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BUDAPEST
(Continued from page 76) which marks the date of the outbreak of the a Secessionist extravaganza of colourful from September to December. Tours of the
revolution, abuts it to the south. tiles and folk motifs built by dn Lechner North Wing depart at 10am, 12pm, 1pm,
access from Ferenciek tere, walk through On the eastern side of Mrcius 15 tr, in 1901 and now part of the National Bank of 2pm and 6pm.
Prisi Udvar (Parisian Court; Map p86; V Ferenciek sitting uncomfortably close to the Elizabeth Hungary (Map p84; Magyar Nemzeti Bank; V Szabadsg The Ethnography Museum (Nprajzi Mzeum;
tere 5), a gem of a Parisian-style arcade built Bridge flyover, is the Inner Town parish church tr 8) next door. Map p84; %473 2400; www.hem.hu; V Kossuth Lajos
in 1909, and into tiny Kigy utca. Vci utca (Belvrosi plbniatemplom; Map p86; V Mrcius 15 tr 2), tr 12; admission free, temporary exhibitions adult/child/
is immediately to the west. where a Romanesque church was first built Kossuth Lajos tr family from 500/200/1000Ft; h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun;
Many of the buildings on Vci utca are in the 12th century within a Roman fortress. Northwest of Szabadsg tr is Kossuth Lajos mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr), opposite the Parliament
worth closer inspection, but as its a narrow You can see a few bits of the fort, Contra tr (Map p84; mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr), the site of building, offers visitors an easy introduc-
street youll have to crane your neck or walk Aquincum (Map p86), in the small park to the Budapests most photographed building and tion to traditional Hungarian life, with
into one of the side streets for a better view. north. The church was rebuilt in the 14th the best museum in the country for tradi- thousands of displays in 13 rooms on the
Thonet House (Map p86; V Vci utca 11/a) is a mas- and 18th centuries, and you can easily spot tional arts and crafts. Southeast of the square 1st floor. The mock-ups of peasant houses
terpiece built by dn Lechner (1890) and Gothic, Renaissance, baroque, and even in Vrtank tere is a statue of Imre Nagy, the from the rsg and Srkz regions of West-
the flower shop called Philanthia (Map p86; V Vci Turkish elements, both inside and out. reformist Communist prime minister exe- ern and Southern Transdanubia are well
utca 9) has an original Art-Nouveau interior. cuted in 1958 for his role in the Uprising two done, and there are some priceless objects
NORTHERN INNER TOWN years before (see p32). It was unveiled with collected from Transdanubia. On the 2nd
Vrsmarty tr & Surrounds This district, also called Liptvros (Leopold great ceremony in the summer of 1996. floor, most temporary exhibitions deal with
Vci utca ends at Vrsmarty tr (Map p86), Town; Map p84 and Map p86), is full of of- The Eclectic Parliament (Orszghz; Map p84; other peoples of Europe and further afield.
a large square of smart shops, galleries, cafs fices, government ministries, 19th-century %441 4904, 441 4415; V Kossuth Lajos tr 1-3, Gate X;
and, depending on the season, an outdoor apartment blocks and grand squares. admission free for EU citizens, other adult/child 2300/1150Ft; BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY T
market with stalls selling tourist schlock, m M2 Kossuth Lajos tr), designed by Imre Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t (Map p84 and Map
and artists who will draw your portrait or Roosevelt tr Steindl and completed in 1902, has almost p86) is the arrow-straight boulevard that
caricature suitable for framing (maybe). Roosevelt tr (Map p86; g16 or 105, j2 or 2/a), 700 sumptuously decorated rooms, but stretches from central Dek Ferenc tr, the
In the centre is a statue of the 19th-century named in 1947 after the long-serving (1933 youll only get to see three on a guided only place in the city where all three metro
poet after whom Vrsmarty tr was 45) American president, is at the foot of tour of the North Wing: the main staircase lines converge, and Nyugati tr, where the
named. The statue is made of Italian mar- Chain Bridge and offers among the best and landing, where the Crown of St Stephen Nyugati train station is located.
ble and is protected in winter by a bizarre views of Castle Hill. (see boxed text, below), the nations most
plastic iceberg that kids love sliding on. On the southern end of the square is a important national icon, is on display; the St Stephens Basilica
The first or last stop of the little yellow statue of Ferenc Dek (Map p86), the Hun- Loge Hall; and the Congress Hall, where the The neoclassical St Stephens Basilica (Szent
(or Millennium) metro line designated the garian minister largely responsible for the House of Lords of the one-time bicameral Istvn Bazilika; Map p86; %311 0839, 338 2151; V Szent
M1 is also in the square, and at the northern Compromise of 1867, which brought about assembly sat until 1944. The building is a Istvn tr; h9am-5pm & 7-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 7-
end is Gerbeaud (Map p86; p113), Budapests the Dual Monarchy of Austria and Hun- blend of architectural styles neo-Gothic, 8pm Sat, 1-5pm & 7-8pm Sun; mM2 Arany Jnos utca),
most famous caf and cake shop. gary. The statues on the western side are of neo-Romanesque, neobaroque and in sum built over the course of half a century, was
South of Vrsmarty tr is the sumptu- an Austrian and a Hungarian child holding works very well. Members of Parliament sit not completed until 1905. Much of the in-
ous Bank Palace (Bank Palota; Map p86; Dek utca 5), hands in peaceful bliss. in the National Assembly Hall in the South terruption had to do with the fiasco in 1868
built in 1915 and now housing the Budapest The Art-Nouveau building with the gold Wing from February to June and again when the dome collapsed during a storm,
Stock Exchange. The Pesti Vigad (Map p86; tiles to the east is the Gresham Palace (Map p86;
V Vigad tr 1), the Romantic-style concert hall V Roosevelt tr 5-6), built by an English insur-
built in 1865, but badly damaged during ance company in 1907. Following a total THE CROWN OF ST STEPHEN
WWII, faces the river to the west of Vrs- overhaul, it now houses the sumptuous Four Legend tells us that it was Asztrik, the first abbot of the Benedictine monastery at Pannonhalma
marty tr. Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel (Map p86; p108), (p161), who presented a crown to Stephen as a gift from Pope Sylvester II around AD 1000, thus
arguably the citys finest hostelry. The Hun- legitimising the new kings rule and assuring his loyalty to Rome over Constantinople. Its a nice
Duna korz garian Academy of Sciences (Magyar Tudomnyos story, but it has nothing to do with the object on display in the Parliament building. That two-
An easy way to cool down on a warm af- Akadmia; Map p86; V Roosevelt tr 9), founded by part crown, with its characteristic bent cross, pendants hanging on either side and enamelled
ternoon (and enjoy the best views of Castle Count Istvn Szchenyi, is at the northern plaques of the Apostles, dates from the 12th century. Regardless of its provenance, the Crown
Hill across the river) is to stroll along the end of the square. of St Stephen has become the very symbol of the Hungarian nation.
Duna korz (Map p86), the riverside Dan- The crown has disappeared several times over the centuries, only to appear again later.
ube Promenade between Chain Bridge and Szabadsg tr During the Mongol invasions of the 13th century the crown was dropped while being transported
Elizabeth Bridge and above Belgrd rak- Independence Sq (Map p84; g15), one of the to a safe house, giving it that slightly jaunty, skewed look. More recently in 1945 Hungarian
part. Its full of cafs, musicians and handi- largest squares in the city, is a few minutes fascists fleeing the Soviet army took it to Austria. Eventually the crown fell into the hands of the
craft stalls, and leads into Petfi tr (Map walk northeast of Roosevelt tr. In the centre US Army, which transferred it to Fort Knox in Kentucky. In January 1978 the crown was returned
p86), named after the poet of the 184849 is a monument to the Soviet army (Map p84), to Hungary with great ceremony and relief. Because legal judgments in Hungary had always
War of Independence and the scene of one of the very few still left in Budapest. been handed down in the name of St Stephens Crown, it was considered a living symbol and
political rallies (both legal and illegal) over South of the US embassy is the former had thus been kidnapped.
subsequent years. Mrcius 15 tr (Map p86), Royal Postal Savings Bank (Map p84; V Hold utca 4),
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BUDAPEST
and the structure had to be demolished buildings decorated with Atlases, reliefs The eastern side is a rather poor area, with renovated with funds raised by the Hun-
and rebuilt. The basilica is rather dark and and other details. Dont hesitate to explore little of interest to travellers except the Ke- garian government and a New Yorkbased
gloomy inside, but take a trip to the top of the inner courtyards here and further on. leti train station (Map pp801) on Baross charity headed by the actor Tony Curtis,
the dome (adult/child 500/400Ft; h10am-4.30pm Apr You can reach Jszai Mari tr (Map p84), tr. The western side, bounded by the Little whose parents emigrated from Hungary in
& May, 9.30am-6pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5.30pm Sep & Oct), at the western end of Szent Istvn krt, on Ring road, has always been predominantly the 1920s. In an annexe of the synagogue is
which can be reached by lift and 146 steps, tram 4 or 6 from either side of the river or Jewish, and this was the ghetto where Jews the Jewish Museum (Zsid Mzeum; Map p86; %342
and offers one of the best views in the city. via tram 2 from the Inner Town in Pest. The were forced to live behind wooden fences 8949; VII Dohny utca 2; synagogue admission 300Ft, syna-
To the right as you enter the basilica is a eastern end of the boulevard is best reached when the Nazis occupied Hungary in 1944. gogue & museum adult/child 1000/400Ft; h10am-5pm
small treasury (kincstr; h9am-5pm Apr-Sep, 10am- by metro (M3 Nyugati plyaudvar). Oktogon is on the M1 metro line, Blaha Mon-Thu, 10am-2pm Fri, 10am-2pm Sun mid-AprOct,
4pm Oct-Mar) of ecclesiastical objects. Behind Lujza tr on the M2. You can also reach this 10am-3pm Mon-Thu, 10am-2pm Fri, 10am-2pm Sun
the main altar and to the left is the basilicas jliptvros area via trams 4 and 6 from both Buda and Novmid-Apr), which contains objects related
major drawing card: the Holy Right Chapel (Szent The area north of Szent Istvn krt is the rest of Pest. to religious and everyday life, and an inter-
Jobb kpolna; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 1am-4.30pm Sun known as jliptvros (New Leopold Town; esting handwritten book of the local Burial
May-Sep, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1am-4.30pm Sun Oct-Apr). It Map pp801 and Map p84) to distinguish Liszt Academy of Music Society from the 18th century. The Holo-
contains the Holy Right (also known as the it from Liptvros (Leopold Town) in the The Liszt Academy of Music (Liszt Zeneakadmia; Map caust Memorial Room dark and sombre
Holy Dexter), the mummified right hand of Northern Inner Town. (Archduke Leopold p84; %342 0179; VI Liszt Ferenc tr 8; mM2 Oktogon), relates the events of 194445, including the
St Stephen and an object of great devotion. was the grandson of Empress Maria The- one block southeast of Oktogon, was built infamous mass murder of doctors and pa-
To view it, you have to put a 100Ft coin into resa.) The area was upper middle class and in 1907. It attracts students from all over tients at a hospital on Maros utca.
a little machine in front of it, which lights up Jewish before the war, and many of the safe the world and is one of the top venues for On the synagogues north side, the Holo-
the glass casket containing the relic. houses organised by the Swedish diplomat concerts in Budapest. The interior, with caust Memorial (Map p86; VII Wesselnyi utca) stands
English-language guided tours of the ba- Raoul Wallenberg during WWII were here large and small concert halls richly embel- over the mass graves of those murdered by
silica (with/without dome visit 2000/1500Ft) (see boxed text, below). A street named lished with Zsolnay porcelain and frescoes, the Nazis in 194445. On the leaves of the
depart Monday to Friday at 9.30am, 11am, after this great man, two blocks to the is worth a look even if youre not attending metal tree of life are the family names of
2pm and 3.30pm, and on Saturday at 9.30am north, bears a commemorative plaque, and a performance. some of the 400,000 victims.
and 11am. a statue of Wallenberg (Map pp801) doing
battle with a snake, was erected in Szent Jewish Quarter Blaha Lujza tr & Rkczi t
SZENT ISTVN KRT Istvn Park in 1999. The heart of the old Jewish quarter, Klauzl The subway (underpass) below Blaha Lujza
Szent Istvn krt (Map p84), the north- tr (Map p84; j4 or 6), and its surrounding tr (Map p84), the square named after a
ernmost stretch of the Big Ring road ERZSBETVROS streets retain a feeling of prewar Budapest. leading 19th-century stage actress, is one of
(Nagykrt) in Pest, runs in a westerly di- The Big Ring road slices district VII also Signs of a continued Jewish presence are the liveliest in the city, with hustlers, beg-
rection from Nyugati tr to Margaret Bridge called Erzsbetvros (Elizabeth Town; Map still evident in a kosher bakery (Map p86; gars, peasants selling their wares, musicians
and the Danube. Its an interesting street to p84 and Map p86) in half between two Kazinczy utca 28), the Frlich cake shop (Map p86; Dob and, of course, pickpockets. Just north of
stroll along, with many fine Eclectic-style busy squares: Oktogon and Blaha Lujza tr. utca 22), which has old Jewish favourites, and the square is the Art-Nouveau New York Pal-
a wigmaker (Map p86; Kazinczy utca 32). ace (New York Palota; Map p84; VII Erzsbet krt 9-11),
There are about half a dozen synagogues erstwhile home of the celebrated New York
RAOUL WALLENBERG, RIGHTEOUS GENTILE and prayer houses in the district, which Kvhz, scene of many a literary gathering
Of all the righteous gentiles honoured by Jews around the world, the most revered is Raoul were reserved for different sects and eth- over the years. It has been almost completely
Wallenberg, the Swedish diplomat and businessman who rescued as many as 35,000 Hungarian nic groups: conservatives, the Orthodox, restored and will soon reopen as a hotel.
Jews during WWII. Poles, Sephardics and so on. The Orthodox Rkczi t (Map pp801 and Map p84),
Wallenberg began working in 1936 for a trading firm whose president was a Hungarian Jew. Synagogue (Ortodox zsinagga; Map p86; VII Kazinczy a busy shopping street, cuts across Blaha
In July 1944 the Swedish Foreign Ministry, at the request of Jewish and refugee organisations utca 29-31; j4 or 6), which is also accessed Lujza tr and ends at Baross tr and Ke-
in the USA, sent the 32-year-old Wallenberg on a rescue mission to Budapest as an attach to from Dob utca 35, was built in 1913 for leti train station (Keleti plyaudvar; Map
the embassy there. By that time almost half a million Jews in Hungary had been sent to Nazi Budapests Orthodox community, and the pp801), built in 1884 and renovated a
death camps in Germany and Poland. Moorish Rumbach Sebestyn utca Synagogue century later.
Wallenberg immediately began issuing Swedish safe-conduct passes (called Wallenberg pass- (Rumbach Sebestyn utcai zsinagga; Map p86; VII Rumbach
ports) and set up safe houses flying the flag of Sweden and other neutral countries where Sebestyn utca 11; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) in 1872 JZSEFVROS & FERENCVROS
Jews could seek asylum. He even followed German death marches and deportation trains, distrib- by Austrian Secessionist architect Otto From Blaha Lujza tr, the Big Ring road
uting food and clothing, and actually pulling some 500 people off the cars along the way. Wagner for the conservatives. runs through district VIII, also called Jzse-
When the Soviet army entered Budapest in January 1945, Wallenberg went to report to the The Great Synagogue (Nagy zsinagga; Map p86; fvros (Joseph Town; Map pp801 and
authorities, but in the wartime confusion was arrested for espionage and sent to Moscow. In the VII Dohny utca 2-8; mM2 Astoria) is the largest Map p84). The western side transforms
early 1950s, responding to reports that Wallenberg had been seen alive in a labour camp, the Jewish house of worship in the world out- itself from a neighbourhood of lovely 19th-
Soviet Union announced that he had in fact died of a heart attack in 1947. Several reports over side New York City and can seat 3000 of the century townhouses and villas around the
the next two decades suggested Wallenberg was still alive, but none was ever confirmed. Many faithful. Built in 1859 and containing both Little Ring road to a large student quarter.
believe Wallenberg was executed by the Soviets, who suspected him to be a spy for the USA. Romantic-style and Moorish architectural East of the boulevard is the once rough-
elements, the copper-domed synagogue was and-tumble district where much of the
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fighting in October 1956 took place. Today crafts (glass making, bookbinding, gold- ANDRSSY T 9am-5pm Sat; mM1 Vrsmarty utca) is situated
it is being developed at breakneck speed smithing, leatherwork etc). However, the last Andrssy t (Map pp801 and Map p84) in the building where the great composer
and the sound of bulldozers is constant time we visited there were only temporary starts a short distance north of Dek Ferenc lived in a 1st-floor apartment from 1881
nowadays. exhibitions on display and the permanent tr and stretches for 2.5km to the north- until his death in 1886. The four rooms are
The neighbourhood south of lli t is collections were closed. The building, de- east, ending at Heroes Sq (Hsk tere) filled with his pianos (including a tiny glass
Ferencvros (Francis Town; Map pp801), signed by dn Lechner and decorated with and Vrosliget, Pests sprawling City Park. one), the composers table, portraits and
home of the citys most popular football Zsolnay ceramic tiles, was completed for the Andrssy t is such a pretty boulevard and personal effects.
team, Ferencvrosi Torna Club (p120), and Millenary Exhibition (1896), but was badly theres so much to enjoy en route that the
many of its tough, green-and-white-clad damaged during WWII and again in 1956. best way to see it is on foot (see p100), Asian Art Museums
supporters. Most of the area was washed although the M1 metro runs beneath An- This area has two fine museums devoted to
away in the Great Flood of 1838. Today there Holocaust Memorial Center drssy t from Dek Ferenc tr as far as the Asian arts and crafts, within easy walking
is a tremendous amount of building going The new Holocaust Memorial Center (Holokauszt City Park. distance of one another.
on in Ferencvros too. Emlkkzpont; Map pp88-9; % 455 3348; www.hdke The Ferenc Hopp Museum of East Asian Art
The Jzsefvros and Ferencvros districts .hu; IX Pva utca 39; admission free; h10am-6pm Tue- Hungarian State Opera House (Hopp Ferenc Kelet-zsiai Mvszeti Mzeum; Map pp80-1;
are best served by trams 4 and 6. Sun), housed in a striking modern building The neo-Renaissance Hungarian State Opera %322 8476; VI Andrssy t 103; adult/child 400/200Ft;
in a working-class neighbourhood of Fer- House (Magyar llami Operahz; Map p84; % 332 h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mM1 Bajza utca) is in the
Hungarian National Museum encvros, opened in 2004 on the 60th an- 8197; www.operavisit.hu; VI Andrssy t 22; adult/student former villa of its benefactor and namesake.
The Hungarian National Museum (Magyar Nemzeti niversary of the start of the holocaust in 2400/1200Ft; mM1 Opera) was designed by Mik- Founded in 1919, the museum has a good
Mzeum; Map p86; %338 2122, 317 7806; www.mnm Hungary. Both a museum and an educa- ls Ybl in 1884 and is among the citys most collection of Indonesian wayang puppets,
.hu; VIII Mzeum krt 14-16; admission free, temporary tional foundation, the centre displays pages beautiful buildings. If you cannot attend Indian statuary, and lamaist sculpture and
exhibitions adult/child 700/350Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; from the harrowing Auschwitz Album, an a concert or an opera at least join one of scroll paintings from Tibet. Theres an 18th-
mM3 Klvin tr, j47 or 49) contains the nations unusual collection of photographs docu- the guided tours (held at 3pm and 4pm), century Chinese moon gate in the back gar-
most important collection of historical menting the transport, internment and which include a brief musical performance. den, but most of the Chinese and Japanese
relics in a large neoclassical building pur- extermination of Hungarian Jews that was Tickets are available from the souvenir shop collection of ceramics and porcelain, textiles
pose-built in 1847. On the 1st floor exhibits found by a camp survivor after liberation. In on the eastern side of the building facing and sculpture is housed in the Gyrgy Rth Mu-
trace the history of the Carpathian Basin the central courtyard, a sublimely restored Hajs utca. seum (Rth Gyrgy Mzeum; Map pp80-1; %342 3916;
from earliest times to the arrival of the Avars synagogue designed by Leopold Baumhorn VI Vrosligeti fasor 12; adult/child 400/250Ft; h10am-6pm
in the 9th century, and on the 2nd floor of and completed in 1924 hosts temporary ex- House of Terror Tue-Sun; mM1 Bajza utca), in a gorgeous Art-
the Magyar people to 1849 and of Hun- hibitions, such as a recent one on the geno- The House of Terror (Terror Hza; Map p84; %374 Nouveau residence a few minutes walk
gary in the 19th and 20th centuries. Look cide of the Roma people during WWII. 2600; www.terrorhaza.hu; Andrssy t 60; adult/child southwards down Bajza utca.
out for the enormous 3rd-century Roman 1200/600Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7.30pm Sat &
mosaic from Balcapuszta, near Veszprm, Ludwig Museum (Museum of Sun; mM1 Vrsmarty utca), in what was once HEROES SQUARE
at the foot of the central staircase; the crim- Contemporary Art) the headquarters of the dreaded VH secret Andrssy t ends at Heroes Sq (Hsk tere;
son silk royal coronation robe (or mantle) Just across from the National Theatre, the police (p31), purports to focus on the crimes Map pp801), which in effect forms the en-
stitched by nuns at Veszprm in 1031; the Ludwig Museum, which is also called the and atrocities committed by both Hungarys trance to City Park and is on the M1 metro
reconstructed 3rd-century Roman villa Museum of Contemporary Art (Kortrs Mvszeti fascist and Stalinist regimes, but the latter, line (Hsk tere stop).
from Pannonia; the treasury room with pre- Mzeum; Map pp88-9; %555 3444; www.ludwigmuseum particularly the years after WWII leading
Conquest gold jewellery; a second treasury .hu; IX Komor Marcell utca 1; admission free, temporary ex- up to the 1956 Uprising, gets the lions share Millenary Monument
room with later gold objects (including the hibitions adult/child 1000/500Ft; h10am-6pm Tue, Fri & of the exhibition space (almost three-dozen In the centre is the Millenary Monument
11th-century Monomachus crown); the Sun, noon-6pm Wed, noon-8pm Thu, 10am-8pm Sat; j2 rooms, halls and corridors over three floors). (Ezerves emlkm; Map pp801), a 36m-
Turkish tent; the stunning baroque library; or 2/a) and was until 2005 housed in the Royal The tank in the central courtyard is a jarring high pillar backed by colonnades to the
and Beethovens Broadwood piano. Palace on Castle Hill, is clearly enjoying its introduction and the wall displaying many right and left. Topping the pillar is the
new and vastly expanded exhibition space of the victims photos speaks volumes. But Angel Gabriel, who is holding the Hun-
Museum of Applied Arts in the equally architecturally controversial even more harrowing are the reconstructed garian crown and a cross. At the base are
The galleries of the Museum of Applied Arts Palace of Arts (Mvszetek Palotja; p118). prison cells and the final Perpetrators Gal- rpd and the six other Magyar chieftains
(Iparmvszeti Mzeum; Map pp80-1; % 456 5100; The museum is the only one collecting and lery, featuring photographs of the turncoats, who occupied the Carpathian Basin in the
IX lli t 33-37; admission free, temporary exhibitions exhibiting international contemporary art spies, torturers and cogs-in-the-wheel, late 9th century.
adult/child 600/300Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mM3 and works by American, Russian, German many of them still alive, who allowed or The 14 statues in the colonnades behind
Ferenc krt), which surround a central hall of and French contemporary artists over the caused these atrocities to take place. May are of rulers and statesmen from King
white marble supposedly modelled on the past 50 years, and Hungarian, Czech, Slo- they never forget their crimes. Stephen on the left to Lajos Kossuth on
Alhambra in southern Spain, usually contain vakian, Romanian, Polish and Slovenian the right. The reliefs below show a signifi-
a wonderful array of Hungarian furniture works from the 1990s onward. In the past Franz Liszt Memorial Museum cant scene in the honoured mans life. The
dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, dozen years the museum has held some 150 The Franz Liszt Memorial Museum (Liszt Ferenc four allegorical figures atop are (from left to
Art-Nouveau and Secessionist artefacts, and temporary exhibitions, many of them on Emlkmzeum; Map p84; %322 9804; VI Vrsmarty right): Work & Prosperity, War, Peace and
objects related to the history of trades and the cutting edge. utca 35; adult/child 400/250Ft; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Knowledge & Glory.
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Museum of Fine Arts Transport Museum with things to keep you occupied outdoors. XI Kelenhegyi t 4; admission deposit before/after 3pm
The Museum of Fine Arts (Szpmvszeti Mzeum; The Transport Museum (Kzlekedsi Mzeum; Map From swimming, taking the waters and 3000/2800Ft; h6am-7pm May-Sep, 6am-7pm Mon-Fri,
Map pp80-1; % 469 7100, 363 2675; www.szep pp80-1; %273 3840; XIV Vrosligeti krt 11; admis- cycling to caving and canoeing, its all within 6am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; j18, 19, 47 or 49), open
muveszeti.hu; XIV Dzsa Gyrgy t 41; admission free, sion free, temporary exhibitions adult/child 400/200Ft; easy access of the capital. to both men and women in separate sec-
temporary exhibitions adult/child 1200/600Ft; h10am- h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, tions, has been likened to taking a bath in
5.30pm Tue-Sun), on the northern side of the 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr) may Thermal Baths a cathedral. The pools maintain a constant
square, houses the citys outstanding col- not sound like a crowd pleaser, but it is one Budapest lies on the geological fault sep- temperature of 44C, and the water, high
lection of foreign art works in a renovated of the most enjoyable in Budapest and great arating the Buda Hills from the Great Plain; in calcium, magnesium and hydrogen car-
building dating from 1906. The Old Masters for children. In an old and a new wing there more than 30,000 cubic metres of warm bonate, is good for pains in the joints, arth-
collection is the most complete, with thou- are scale models of ancient trains (some of to scalding (21C to 76C) mineral water ritis and blood circulation. The entrance fee
sands of works from the Dutch and Flem- which run), classic late-19th-century auto- gush forth daily from some 120 thermal is actually a kind of deposit; you get back
ish, Spanish, Italian, German, French and mobiles and lots of those old wooden bi- springs. As a result, the city is a major spa 700/400/200Ft if you leave within two/three/
British schools between the 13th and 18th cycles called bone-shakers. There are a few centre and taking the waters at one of the four hours before 3pm, and 500/200Ft if you
centuries, including seven paintings by El hands-on exhibits and lots of show-and- many gygyfrd (thermal baths) is a real exit within two/three hours after 3pm. Just
Greco. Other sections include Egyptian and tell from the attendants. Outside are pieces Budapest experience. Some baths date from make sure you hold on to your receipts.
Greco-Roman artefacts and 19th- and 20th- from the original Danube bridges that were Turkish times, some are Art-Nouveau won- The four pools at the Kirly Baths (Kirly
century paintings, watercolours, graphics retrieved after the bombings of WWII and ders and others are spick-and-span modern Gygyfrd; Map pp80-1; %202 3688, 201 4392; II F
and sculpture, including some important a caf in an old MV coach. establishments. utca 84; admission 1100Ft; hmen 9am-8pm Tue, Thu &
impressionist works. Free tours of key gal- Generally, entry to those baths without a Sat, women 7am-6pm Mon, Wed & Fri; g60 or 86), with
leries are available in English at 11am Tues- City Zoo & Botanical Garden deposit or voucher system (such as Gellrt, water temperatures of between 26C and
day to Friday. The large City Zoo and Botanical Garden (Vrosi Lukcs and Szcheny) allows you to stay for 40C, are genuine Turkish baths erected
llatkert s Nvnykert; Map pp80-1; %273 4900, 363 two hours on weekdays and 1 hours on in 1570 and they have a wonderful skylit
Palace of Art 3701; www.zoobudapest.com; XIV llatkerti t 6-12; adult/ weekends, though this rule is not always en- central dome.
The Palace of Art (Mcsarnok; Map pp80-1; %460 child/student/family 1300/900/1000/4100Ft; h 9am- forced. Most of the baths offer a full range of The Lukcs Baths (Lukcs Gygyfrd; Map pp80-
7014, 363 2671; www.mucsarnok.hu; XIV Dzsa Gyrgy 6.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-7pm Fri-Sun May-Aug, 9am-5.30pm serious medical treatments, plus more indul- 1; %326 1695; II Frankel Le t 25-27; admission de-
t 37; 3-D film adult/child 1000/500Ft, exhibitions & film Mon-Thu, 9am-6pm Fri-Sun Apr & Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Thu, gent treatments, like massage (15/30 min- posit locker/cabin 1500/1700Ft; h6am-7pm May-Sep,
1500/500Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) is among the 9am-5.30pm Fri-Sun Mar & Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Feb) has a utes 1900/2700Ft) and pedicures (2000Ft). 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; j17,
citys largest exhibition spaces, and hosts good collection of animals (big cats, rhinos, Specify what you want when buying your g60 or 86), housed in a sprawling, 19th-
temporary exhibitions of works by Hungar- hippopotamuses), but some visitors come ticket. century complex, are popular with older,
ian and foreign artists in fine and applied here just to look at the Secessionist animal The procedure for getting into the warm very keen spa aficionados, and include every-
art, photography and design. Concerts are houses built in the early part of the 20th water is similar to the one for swimming thing from thermal and mud baths (tem-
sometimes staged here, too. A 3-D film that century, such as the Elephant House with pools (p98), though in Budapests baths you peratures 22C to 40C) to a swimming pool.
whisks you around Hungary in 25 min- pachyderm heads in beetle-green Zsolnay will sometimes be given a number and will The thermal baths are open to men on Tues-
utes (with commentary available in seven ceramic and the Palm House (with aquarium have to wait until it is called or appears day, Thursday and Saturday, and women on
languages) is screened continuously from 300Ft extra) erected by the Eiffel Company on the electronic board. Though some of Monday, Wednesday and Friday. You get
10am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday from of Paris. the local spas and baths look a little rough back 500/300/100Ft if you leave two/three/
mid-March to September and from 10am around the edges, they are clean and the four hours after you enter.
to 4.30pm Friday to Sunday from October Funfair Park water is changed regularly. You might con- At the northern end of City Park, the
to mid-March. The Funfair Park (Vidmpark; Map pp80-1; %363 sider taking along a pair of plastic sandals Szchenyi Baths (Szchenyi Gygyfrd; Map pp80-1;
8310, 363 2660; www.vidampark.hu; XIV llatkerti krt 14- or flip-flops, however. Most bathhouses %363 3210; XIV llatkerti t 11; admission deposit before/
CITY PARK 16; admission free or 300Ft, rides 300-600Ft; h10am-8pm now require you to wear a bathing suit and after 3pm 2300/1400Ft; h6am-7pm; mM1 Szchenyi
City Park (Vrosliget; Map pp801) is Jul & Aug, 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun May & no longer distribute those strange draw- frd) is unusual for three reasons: its im-
Pests green lung, an open space measur- Jun, 11am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun Apr & Sep, string loincloths. Most hire out swimming mense size (a dozen thermal baths and
ing almost a square kilometre that hosted 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6.30 Sat & Sun Mar & Oct) is a costumes (around 800Ft) if you dont have three swimming pools); its bright, clean
most of the events during Hungarys 1000th 150-year-old luna park on 2 hectares next your own. atmosphere; and its water temperatures
anniversary celebrations in 1896. Its not to the Municipal Great Circus. There are a Please note that some of the baths become (up to 38), which really are what the wall
so cut and dry, but in general museums couple of dozen thrilling rides, including gay venues on male-only days especially plaques say they are. Its open to both men
lie to the south of XIV Ks Kroly stny, the heart-stopping Ikarus Space Needle, the the Kirly. Not much actually goes on, ex- and women at all times, and you get back
while activities of a less cerebral nature looping Star roller coaster and the Hip-Hop cept for some intensive cruising, but those 800/500/200Ft on your deposit if you leave
including the Municipal Great Circus freefall tower, as well as go-karts, dodgem not into it may feel uncomfortable. within two/three/four hours before 3pm and
(p120) and the Szchenyi Baths (opposite) cars and a carousel built in 1906. An excellent source of information is 600/300Ft if you exit within two/three hours
are to the north. Budapest Spas and Hot Springs (www.spasbudapest after 3pm.
City Park is served by the M1 metro ACTIVITIES .com). The Thermal Bath (Map pp78-9; %889 4737; XIII
(Szchenyi frd stop), as well as by trol- Though Budapest may not seem like a des- Soaking in the Art-Nouveau Gellrt Margit-sziget; admission Mon-Fri 5200Ft, Sat & Sun 6300Ft;
leybuses 70, 72, 75 and 79. tination for activities, it is chock-a-block Baths (Gellrt Gygyfrd; Map pp80-1; %466 6166; h 6.30am-9.30pm; g 26) is a modern-style
BUDAPEST 98 B U D A P E S T A c t i v i t i e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T A c t i v i t i e s 99

BUDAPEST
thermal spa in the Danubius Grand Hotel (swimming pool), and Budapest boasts utca 62-64; admission before/after 3pm Mon-Fri Caving
Margitsziget on leafy Margaret Island. The dozens. Theyre always excellent places to 3500/4500Ft, Sat & Sun 4900Ft; h7am-10pm; mM3 Budapest has a number of caves, two of
baths are open to men and women in sep- get in a few laps (if indoor), cool off on a Dzsa Gyrgy t or trolleybus 79), in the four-star which are open for walk-through guided
arate sections. hot summers day (if outdoor) or watch all Danubius Helia Hotel on the Danube, tours in Hungarian. Plvlgy Cave (Plvlgyi-bar-
the posers strut their stuff. boasts three pools, sauna and steam room. lang; Map pp78-9; %325 9505; II Szpvlgyi t 162; adult/
Cycling The system inside is similar to that at the The Bla Komjdi Swimming Pool (Map pp80- child 750/450Ft; g65 from Kolosy tr in buda), the
Parts of Budapest, including City and Np- baths, except that rather than a cabin or 1; %212 2750; II rpd fejedelem tja 8; adult/child second-largest cave in Hungary, is noted
liget Parks, Margaret Island and the Buda cubicle you store your gear in lockers. Get 900/550Ft; h6am-7pm; j17, g60 or 86) is used for its stalactites and bats; be advised that
Hills, are excellent places for cycling. At changed and call the attendant, who will lock by very serious swimmers and fitness freaks the 500m route involves climbing some 400
present dedicated bike lanes in the city it, write the time on a chalkboard and hand so dont come here for fun and games. steps and a ladder, so it may not be suitable
total about 140km, including the path along you a key. Many pools require the use of a Use of the three swimming pools at the for children. Hourly tours depart between
Andrssy t, but that number is expected bathing cap, so bring your own or wear the Lukcs Baths (Lukcs Gygyfrd; Map pp80-1; %326 10am and 4pm Tuesday to Sunday.
to double in the next decade. To contact plastic one provided or sold for a nominal fee. 1695; II Frankel Le t 25-27; h6am-7pm May-Sep, 6am- A more beautiful cave, with stalactites,
Budapest-based cycling associations for in- Most pools rent bathing suits and towels. 7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; j17, g60 stalagmites and weird grapelike formations,
formation and advice, see p50. Following are the best outdoor and in- or 86) is included in the general admission is Szeml-hegy Cave (Szemlhegyi-barlang; Map pp78-
For places to rent bicycles on Margaret door pools in the city. Some are attached to price (p97). 9; %325 6001; II Pusztaszeri t 35; adult/child 650/400Ft;
Island, see boxed text p76). thermal baths reviewed previously, others The largest series of pools in the cap- h 10am-4pm Wed-Mon; g 29 from III Kolosy tr),
Long-established and very reliable Yel- part of hotel wellness centres. ital, the Palatinus Strand (Palatinus Beach; Map about 1km southeast of Plvlgy Cave.
low Zebra Bikes (Dek Ferenc tr Map p86; %266 The popular Csillaghegy swimming complex pp78-9; %340 4505; XIII Margit-sziget; adult/child locker
8777, 06 30 211 8861; www.yellowzebrabikes.com; V St (Map pp78-9; %250 1533; III Pusztakti t 3; adult/child 1500/1300Ft, admission with cabin 1900Ft; h10am-6pm Boating
utca 2; per hr/half-day/day 500/2000/3000Ft; h10am- 1000/800Ft; h9am-7pm mid-MaySep, 7am-7pm Mon- Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun May & Jun, 9am-7pm Mon-Sun The best place for canoeing and kayaking
6pm Nov-Mar, 9am-8pm Apr-Oct; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc Fri, 7am-5pm Sat, 7am-4pm Sepmid-May; HV Csillagh- Jul & Aug; g26) on Margaret Island has a total in Budapest is on the Danube at Rmai-
tr; Opera House Map p84; %269 3843; VI Lzr utca 16; egy) north of buda is the oldest open-air of 11 pools (two or three with thermal water), part (Map pp789); take the HV suburban
h10am-5pm Nov-Mar, 9.30am-7.30pm Apr-Oct; mM1 bath in Budapest. There are three pools in a wave machines, water slides etc. line to Rmaifrd (Map pp789) and walk
Opera) rents out bikes year-round from out- 90-hectare terraced park; in winter they are The outdoor pools at the Rmaifrd eastwards towards the river. Two reliable
lets just behind the Tourinform office and covered by a heated canvas tent. Strandfurd (Rmaifrd Beach; Map pp78-9; %388 places to rent kayaks and/or canoes are from
the Opera House. The huge Dagly swimming complex (Map 9740; III Rozgonyi Piroska utca 2; adult/child locker buda Sport Club (SE; Map pp78-9; %240 3353; III
Budapest Bike (Erzsbetvros Map p86; %06 30 944 pp78-9; %452 4500; XIII Npfrd utca 36; adult ad- 1200/1000Ft, admission with cabin 1600Ft; h9am-7pm Rozgonyi Piroska utca 28; canoes per day 1400Ft; h8am-
5533; www.budapestbike.hu; VII Wesselnyi utca 18; per 2hr/ mission deposit 1800/1500Ft with/without cabin, child May-Aug; HV Rmaifrd or g34) are just north 6pm) and the KSH canoe club (Map pp78-9; %368
half-day/day 600/1500/3000Ft; h9am-midnight; j4 or 6 admission deposit 1300Ft; h outdoor pools 6am-7pm of Aquincum. 8967; III Kirlyok tja 31; canoes per day 1000/1300Ft,
or trolleybus 74; Inner Town Map p83; %06 30 944 5533; V May-Sep, indoor pools 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm Sat & The indoor pools at the Rudas Baths (Map 1-/2-person kayaks per day 1300/1500Ft, 3-/4-person
Lnchd; h9am-midnight May-Sep) rents bikes from Sun Oct-Apr; mM3 rpd hd, j1) has a total of p86; %356 1322, 356 1010; I Dbrentei tr 9; admis- canoes per day 1800/1900Ft; h 8am-6pm mid-Apr
its main outlet, as well as from a kiosk at the 10 pools, with plenty of grass and shade. If sion with locker/cabin 900/1100Ft; h6am-6pm Mon-Fri, mid-Oct).
Pest end of Chain Bridge. Another outfit is you leave the complex two/three hours after 6am-1pm Sat & Sun; j18 or 19, g7 or 86), close to
Bike Base (Map p84; %269 5983, 06 70 625 8501; www entering you get 500/300Ft back. the river, were built by the Turks in 1566 Horse Riding
.bikebase.hu; VI Podmaniczky utca 19; per 1/2/3 days 8/ The indoor pools at the Gellrt Baths (Gel- and retain a strong Turkish atmosphere. The Hungarian Equestrian Tourism As-
12/16; h9am-7pm; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar). lrt Gygyfrd; Map pp80-1; %466 6166; XI Kelenhegyi The thermal baths are currently under sociation (Map p86; p48) has a list of rec-
Frigoria (www.frigoriakiado.hu) publishes a t 4; admission deposit to swimming pool & thermal baths renovation. ommended riding schools within striking
number of useful guides and maps, including with locker/cabin 2500/3000Ft, 2400/2800Ft after 5pm Use of the three enormous thermal swim- distance of Budapest, but bear in mind that
one called Kerkparral Budapest krnykn May-Sep, after 5pm Mon-Fri & after 2pm Sat & Sun Oct- ming pools at the Szchenyi Baths (Szchenyi Hungary has just introduced a new system of
(By Bike around Budapest; 2200Ft) that Apr; h6am-7pm May-Sep, 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm Gygyfrd; Map pp80-1; %363 3210; XIV llatkerti t rating riding schools and centres, and things
takes in the surrounding areas and describes Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; j18, 19, 47 or 49) are the most 11; h6am-10pm May-Sep, 6am-7pm Oct-Apr; mM1 are (to say the least) in a state of flux.
30 different routes. The tourist offices dis- beautiful in Budapest. The outdoor pools Szchenyi frd) is included in the baths general One of the closest riding schools to Buda-
tribute the free but less ambitious Budapest (May to September) have a wave machine admission fee (p97). pest is the long-established Petnehzy Lovas-
& Surroundings Bicycle Route Map, with 20 and nicely landscaped gardens. centrum (%397 5048, 06 20 588 3571; petnehazy@net
recommended tours that range in length The pools at the Alfrd Hajs swimming com- Hiking .hu; Feketefej utca 2-4; h9am-4pm Sat & Sun; g63 from
from 24km to 177km. plex (Map pp80-1; %450 4214, 340 4946; XIII Margit-szige; Budapest is an excellent springboard for Hvsvlgyi t) at Adyliget near Hvsvlgy. It
Bicycles can be transported on the HV, adult/child 900/550Ft; houtdoor pools 6am-7pm May-Sep, hiking. If you plan on doing any walking in may have resumed lessons, paddock prac-
all Mahart boats and the Cog and Childrens indoor pools 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; the Buda Hills, get hold of a copy of Car- tice and trail riding by the time you read
Railways, but not on the metro, buses or j4 or 6, g26), one indoor and three out- tographias 1:30,000 A Budai-hegysg map this. In the meantime there are pony rides
any trams. door, form the National Sports Pool where (No 6; 900Ft). (1500Ft per 15 minutes) for the kiddies and
Olympic swimming and water-polo teams The tourist offices distribute a useful free carriage rides (15,000Ft per 30 minutes for
Swimming train. map called Budapest & Surroundings Hiking eight people).
Every town of any size in Hungary has The ultramodern Helia swimming and spa Tours, with a dozen hikes and walks from Pegazus Tours (% 317 1644; www.pegazus.hu;
at least one indoor and outdoor szoda centre pool (Map pp80-1; % 889 5800; XIII Krpt the capital. V Ferenciek tere 5) can book riding programmes
BUDAPEST 100 B U D A P E S T W a l k i n g T o u r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T C o u r s e s 101

BUDAPEST
(for details, see p48), as can the highly re- to lose your stamina, just go down and Nagymez utca, the Broadway of Budapest, The Ferenc Hopp Museum of East Asian Art
spected Favorit Lovarda (%257 1065, 06 30 966 jump on. counting a number of theatres, such as the (15; p95) is in the former villa of its epony-
9992; XVI Mkus utca 23; HV Szabadsgtelep) in the Andrssy t splits away from Bajcsy- Budapest Operetta (5; p119) at No 17 and, just mous collector and benefactor at No 103.
Csmr district. Zsilinszky t some 200m north of Dek Fer- opposite, the Thlia (6; %331 0500; VI Nagymez More of the collection is on display at the
enc tr. This section of Andrssy t is lined utca 22-24), lovingly restored in 1997. nearby Gyrgy Rth Museum (16; p95), a few
WALKING TOUR with plane trees cool and pleasant on a On the right-hand side of the next block, minutes walk southwest.
This is a fairly straightforward walk that warm day. The first major sight is the Hun- the so-called Fashion House (7; Divatcsarnok; VI Andrssy t ends at Heroes Sq (17; Hsk
starts just a little north of Dek Ferenc tr garian State Opera House (1; p95). The interior, Andrssy t 39), the fanciest emporium in town tere; p95), which leads to City Park. The
and follows Andrssy t, the most attract- which can be visited on tour, is especially when it opened as the Grande Parisienne citys most flamboyant monument and
ive boulevard in Budapest, to Heroes Sq lovely and sparkles after a total overhaul in (or Prisi Nagyaruhz in Hungarian) in two of its best exhibition spaces are in the
(Hsk tere) and the enormous City Park the 1980s. 1912, contains the ornate Ceremonial Hall square.
(Vrosliget). Its not a very long walking Opposite the Opera House, the so- (Dszterem) on the mezzanine floor, a room The Millenary Monument (18; Ezerves
tour, but theres a tremendous amount to called Drechsler House (2; VI Andrssy t 25), was positively dripping with gilt, marquetry and emlkm; p95) in effect defines Heroes Sq.
see and do along the way so choose judi- designed by Art-Nouveau master builder frescoes by Kroly Lotz. It is currently being Beneath the tall column and under a stone
ciously unless you want to make a whole dn Lechner in 1882. Until recently it redeveloped, so it may be closed when you slab is an empty coffin representing the

day of it. The little yellow metro (M1) runs housed the Hungarian State Dance Institute pass by. unknown insurgents of the 1956 Upris-
just beneath the boulevard, so if you begin but it now stands empty, another victim Andrssy t meets the Nagykrt the ing. To the north of the monument is the
of development that never happened. For Big Ring road at Oktogon, a busy inter- Museum of Fine Arts (19; p96) and its rich
WALK FACTS
something even more magical, walk down section full of fast-food outlets, shops, collection while to the south is the ornate
Dalsznhz utca to the New Theatre (3; j honking cars and pedestrians. Just beyond Palace of Art (20; Mcsarnok; p96), which
Start mM1 Opera Sznhz; %351 1406; VI Paulay Ede utca 35), a Seces- it, the former secret police building, which was built around the time of the millenary
End mM1 Hsk tere

sionist gem embellished with monkey faces, now houses the House of Terror (8; p95), has exhibition in 1896 and renovated a century
Distance 2.6km globes and geometric designs that opened a ghastly history, for it was here that many later.
Duration Two hours (or more) as the Parisiana music hall in 1909. activists of whatever political side was out The M1 Hsk tere metro stop is con-
Fuel Stop Mvsz or Lukcs caf The old-world caf Mvsz (4; p113) is of fashion before and after WWII were veniently just across the square.
in the next block. The next cross street is taken for interrogation and torture (includ-
ing Cardinal Mindszenty; see boxed text, COURSES
Csa Lehel p147). The walls were apparently double Language

nd
y u tr City Park
jliptvros Lehel 19
thickness to mute the screams. A plaque The most prestigious Hungarian-language
Rip

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va terror, and the victims will always be re- branch (Map p84; % 320 5751; www.nyariegyetem
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h
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membered. The Franz Liszt Memorial Museum .hu/bp; Jszai Mari tr 6, 2/F), with intensive courses
V
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y Square Olo
ss f Pa (9; p95) is diagonally opposite. lasting three weeks (60 hours) for 282 and
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iny

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y Sz (10; p119) at No 69, the Academy of Fine Arts language schools are recommended for either
er
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(11; Magyar Kpzmvszeti Egyetem; VI Andrssy t 71)
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classroom study or one-to-one instruction.

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os and the headquarters of MV (12; V Andrssy Hungarian Language School (Map p86; %266 2617;
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14 V
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iu t 73), the national railway. The Lukcs (13; www.hls.hu; VIII Brody Sndor utca 4, 1/F)
iu

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p113) caf and cake shop is just opposite. InterClub Hungarian Language School (Map
ge

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mj The next square (more accurately a cir- pp88-9; %279 0831; www.interclub.hu; XI Bertalan
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8 u ins beautiful in the city, with the faades of the International House (Map pp80-1; %212 4010;
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De z four neo-Renaissance townhouses still in www.ih.hu; II Bimb t 7)

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desperate need of a massive face-lift.

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BUDAPEST FOR CHILDREN

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Ha

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su

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ter
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city. Its no surprise to see that embassies, of eligibility may vary). Family visits to many
u

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Almssy Ga ministries, multinationals and even politi- areas of the city can be designed around a
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cal parties (eg FIDESZ-MPP at VI Lendvay rest stop (or picnic) at, say, City Park, on
lsz

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au

se
Cs

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utca 28) have moved in. Margaret Island or along the Danube.
zu

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BUDAPEST 102 B U D A P E S T T o u r s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T S l e e p i n g 103

BUDAPEST
Kids love transport and the citys many bus tours daily in both open and covered February SLEEPING
(some might say unusual) forms of convey- coaches in July and August (between three Opera Ball (www.operabal.com) This annual, very Budapest accommodation options run the
ance from the Cog Railway (p75) and Childrens and eight buses the rest of the year) from prestigious event is held at the Hungarian State Opera gamut from basic but comfortable hostels
Railway (p75) in the Buda Hills and the Sikl V Andrssy t 3 across the street (adult/ House (Map p84 p95). cobbled from a couple of old apartments
(p69) funicular climbing up to Castle Hill, student 4300/3000Ft). Its a two-hour tour high above the Big Ring road to five-star pal-
to the trams, trolleybuses and M1 metro with one stop (Gellrt Hill) and with taped March aces staring at (or down on) the Danube.
will fascinate and entertain. Specific places to commentary in 16 different languages. Budapest Spring Festival (www.festivalcity.hu)
take children include the Municipal Great Circus Queenybus (Map p77; %247 7159; queenybus@ The capitals largest (200 events at 60 venues) and most Budget
(p120), the Funfair Park (p96), the City Zoo (p96) queenybus.hu; XI Trkblinti t 28) has buses de- important cultural event takes place at venues throughout In Budapest budget accommodation hostels,
and the Budapest Puppet Theatre (p119). And parting three times daily (10am, 11am and the city. private rooms, pensions and camp sites
dont forget the Transport Museum (p96). Its 2.20pm) from in front of St Stephens Basil- costs anything under 12,000Ft (49).
got an embarrassment of hands-on displays ica on V Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t (Map p86) for April
for kids of all ages. three-hour city tours (adult/student/child Spring Marathon (www.marathon.hu) Marathon HOSTELS
Lonely Planets Travel with Children by under 14 6000/3200/3000Ft, open-deck between Budapest and Visegrd. Hostelling International (HI) cards or their
Cathy Lanigan includes all sorts of useful 4300/3000/1500Ft). equivalents (p369) are not required at any
information and advice for those travelling May hostels in Budapest, but theyll often get
with their little ones. Cycling Budapest Early Music Forum (www.festivalcity.hu) A you a discount of up to 10%; make sure to
Run by the same people behind Absolute festival focusing on ancient music classical music ask beforehand. Prices almost always in-
TOURS Walking Tours (below), Yellow Zebra Bikes as it was played when first composed at the Liszt clude a simple (continental) breakfast.
Boat (Map p86; %266 8777, 06 30 211 8861; www.yellowzebra Academy of Music (Map p84; p93) and at churches around Hostels usually have laundry facilities
From early May to mid-September Mahart bikes.com; V St utca 2; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) has Budapest. (1000Ft to 1500Ft for a wash and dry), a
PassNave (Map p86; %484 4013, 318 1223; www cycling tours (adult/student 5500/5000Ft) fully equipped kitchen, storage lockers,
.mahartpassnave.hu; V Belgrd rakpart) has 1- to two- of the city that take in Heroes Sq, City Park, June TV lounge, no curfew and computers for
hour cruises at noon and 7.30pm along the inner Pest and Castle Hill. Tours include Budapesti Bcs (www.festivalcity.hu) City-wide Internet access (free or from about 10Ft
Danube (adult/child under 12 high season the bike and a drink, and depart from in Budapest Fair festival of concerts and street theatre per minute).
1900/950Ft, low season 1600/800Ft). In the front of the yellow Lutheran church in marking the departure of Soviet troops from Hungarian While you can go directly to all the
low season, from April to early May and mid- Dek Ferenc (Map p86) at 11.30am in May, soil in 1991. hostels mentioned here, the Express and
September to mid-October, only the evening June, September and October, and 11.30am Danube Folklore Carnival (www.dunart.hu) Mellow Mood travel agencies (p68) are
cruise sails (on Friday and the weekend). A and 4pm in July and August. Pan-Hungarian international 10-day carnival of folk and the best contact for budget accommoda-
ticket with a meal on board costs 2800/1400Ft world music and modern dance held in Vrsmarty tr tion information. In fact, the latter, which
per adult/child, except in the evening in high Walking (Map p86; p90) and on Margaret Island. is affiliated with HI, runs two year-round
season when it costs 3200/1600Ft, with music Among other tours, Absolute Walking Tours hostels and budget hotels, as well as a
and dancing on board. (%266 8777, 06 30 211 8861; www.absolutetours.com) August half-dozen hostels that are open in sum-
There are other, more expensive, cruises has a 3-hour guided promenade through Formula One Hungarian Grand Prix (www.hungaror mer only. Mellow Mood also maintains
that also operate on the river, including City Park, central Pest and Castle Hill ing.hu) Hungarys prime sporting event held in Magyord, three kiosks at Keleti train station (Map pp80-1;
those offered by Legenda (Map p86; % 266 (adult/student or under 26 4000/3500Ft). 24km northeast of the capital. VIII Kerepesi t 2-4; mM3 Keleti plyaudvar), where
4190, 06 30 944 5216; www.legenda.hu; V Vigad tr, Tours depart at 9.30am and 1.30pm from Sziget Music Festival (www.sziget.hu) Now one of the staff make bookings, and can advise you
pier No 7), which runs tours by day (3600Ft) mid-May to September and at 10.30am the biggest and most popular music festivals in Europe, held about transport from there or arrange it
and night (4200Ft), with taped commentary rest of the year from the steps of the yel- on Budapests buda Island (Map pp789; p73). for you:
in up to 30 languages. Check the website for low Lutheran church on Dek Ferenc tr Platform No 9 kiosk (%353 2722; h7am-6pm)
its schedule. (Map p86). It also has some cracker special- September Rail/Bus office (%461 0948; h6am-10pm) Along
ist tours, including the Hammer & Sickle Budapest International Wine & Champagne platform No 6.
Bus Tour (6000/5000Ft) and the Hungaro Gas- Festival (www.winefestival.hu) Hungarys foremost U Tours travel agency (%303 9818; www.utours.hu;
Many travel agencies, including Cityrama tro Food & Wine Tour (6500/5500Ft). winemakers introduce their wine to festival goers in the h7am-8pm) At the end of platform No 6.
(Map p84; %302 4382; www.cityrama.hu; V Bthory Castle District (Map p83; p69).
utca 22) and Program Centrum (Map p86; %317 FESTIVALS & EVENTS Buda
7767, 06 20 944 9091; www.programcentrum.hu; V Erzsbet Many festivals and events are held in and October Martos Hostel (Map pp88-9; %209 4883, 06 30 911
tr 9-10), next to Le Meridien Budapest, offer around Budapest; look out for the tourist Budapest International Marathon (www.budapest 5755; reception@hotel.martos.bme.hu; XI Sztoczek Jzsef
three-hour city tours with three stops from boards annual Events Calendar for a com- marathon.com) Eastern Europes most celebrated foot race utca 5-7; s 4000Ft, d/tr/q 5000/7500/10,000FT, apt 15,000Ft;
6500/3000Ft per adult/child under 12. They plete listing. goes along the Danube and across its bridges. j4 or 6) Though primarily a summer hostel
also have trips to the Danube Bend, Lake with 200 beds, the independent Martos has
Balaton, the Great Plain, the Eger wine re- January December around 20 beds available year-round. Its
gion etc. For more information, see p387. New Year Concert (www.hungariaconcert.hu) This is an New Years Gala & Ball (www.viparts.hu) Gala dinner reasonably well located, near the Danube,
Budatours (Map p86; % 353 0558, 374 7070; annual event usually held in Pesti Vigad (Map p86; p119) and ball held at the Hungarian State Opera House (Map and just a few minutes walk from Petfi
www.budatours.hu; VI Andrssy t 2) runs nine city on January 1 to herald the new year. p84) on 31 December. Bridge.
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person 4200/3600Ft; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar; i) This private rooms are Ibusz and Vista (p68), building in which the Emperor is located
AUTHORS CHOICE is a six-room hostel put together from several and U Tours (p103) in Keleti train station. was built in the 1850s as a convent, which
Back Pack Guesthouse (Map pp88-9; %385 apartments, with parquet floors, very high After hours, try the imaginatively named might explain the size of the 34 cell-like
8946; www.backpackbudapest.hu; XI Takcs Meny- ceilings and big, airy rooms. Its a quiet place Nonstop Hotel Service (Map p86; %266 8942; www rooms. Request one of the larger superior
hrt utca 33; bed in large/small dm 2500/3000Ft, with a fair number of rules (drugs, booze or .non-stophotelservice.hu; V Apczai Csere Jnos utca 1; rooms that look onto the nearby outdoor
d 7000Ft; gblack-numbered 7 or 7A, j19 or 49; tobacco), so dont expect to party here. h 9am-10pm; m M1 Vrsmarty tr) near the Olympic-size pools of the huge Bla Komjdi
i) The laid-back Back Pack is in a colour- Caterina Hostel (Map p84; %269 5990, 06 20 Budapest Marriott Hotel. Swimming Pool (p99).
fully painted suburban villa in south Buda 992 8854; www.caterinahostel.hu; VI Terz krt 30, 3rd Hotel Citadella (Map pp80-1; %466 5794; www
and is relatively small, with a mere 50 beds fl; bed in 6-/8-/10-bed dm 2800/2600/2500Ft, s/d/t per PENSIONS & GUESTHOUSES .citadella.hu; XI Citadella stny; dm 2200Ft, s & d with shared
(large dormitories with between seven and person 6800/3400/3400Ft, 5-bed apt per person 3200Ft; Budapest has scores of panzi (pensions and shower/shower/bath 10,000/11,000/12,000Ft; g27; p)
11 beds, and small ones with four to five), but mM1 Oktogon; i) Long a key player on the guesthouses), but most of them are in the This hotel in the fortress atop Gellrt-hegy
therein lies its charm. There is a super gar- Budapest budget accommodation scene, outskirts of Pest or in the Buda Hills and is pretty threadbare and though most of
den in the back, with a Thai-style lounging/ this hostel has moved from Oktogon in the not very convenient unless you have your the dozen guestrooms share their facilities,
sleeping platform they call it a gazebo past year or so, but continues to offer reli- own (motorised) transport. they are extra large and retain some of their
as well as hammocks. Internet access is free able, cheap accommodation in a 3rd-floor, original features. The one dorm room with
and there is low-cost massage available. The 27-bed walk-up apartment above the cel- Pest 14 beds is usually booked by groups a week
upbeat attitude of the friendly, much trav- ebrated Mvsz Cinema. Dominik Panzi (Map pp80-1; %460 9428; domin ahead, so call in advance.
elled manager seems to permeate the place Hostel Marco Polo (Map p84; %413 2555; www ikpanzio@axelero.hu; XIV Chzr Andrs utca 3; s/d/5-bed
and the welcome is always warm. .marcopolohostel.com; VII Nyr utca 6; bed in 12-bed dm 20, apt 28/36/75; g7) Just off Thkly t and Margaret Island
s 54, d/tr/q per person 38/28/26; hyear-round; mM2 located beside a large church, Dominik Hotel Margitsziget (Map pp80-1; %329 2949; www
Blaha Lujza tr; i) The Mellow Mood groups Panzi is on a leafy street lined with 19th- .hotelmsz.hu; XIII Margit-sziget; s 43-53, d 45-55; g26;
Pest very central flagship hostel is a swish, century villas and just two stops northeast pi) This 11-room budget hotel in the
Red Bus Hostel (Red Bus I Map p86; %266 0136; www powder-blue, 47-room place, with telephones of Keleti train station by bus. The 36 rooms, centre of Margaret Island is surrounded by
.redbusbudapest.hu; V Semmelweiss utca 14, 1/F; dm 2800- and TVs in all the rooms, except the dorms, which could use an upgrade, come with greenery and feels almost like a resort. If
3000Ft, s & d 7900Ft, tr 11,000Ft; mM2 Astoria; Red Bus II and a lovely courtyard. Even the five spotless shared bathroom and there is a five-person you really want to get away from it all on
Map pp80-1; %321 7100; VII Szvetsg utca 2, 2/F; dm dorms (one reserved for women during the apartment available. a budget but remain within easy striking
2800Ft; trolleybuses 73, 74 or 76; i) Red Bus Hostel low season) are private, with beds separated Garibaldi Guesthouse & Apartments (Map p84; distance of the action, choose this place.
is a very friendly, central and well-managed by lockers and curtains. %302 3457, 06 30 951 8763; garibaldiguest@hotmail
place, with four large and airy rooms with Mellow Mood Central Guesthouse (Map p86; .com; V Garibaldi utca 5, 5th fl; s/d 28/32, apt per per- Pest
four to five beds, as well as private rooms for %411 1310; www.mellowmoodhostel.com; V Bcsi utca son 25-45; mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr) Arguably the KM Saga Guest Residence (KM Saga I Map pp80-1;
up to three people. The new Red Bus II has 2; bed in 6-/8-bed dm 5000/4500Ft, d/tr/q per person most welcoming hostel-cum-guesthouse in %217 1934; www.km-saga.hu; IX Lnyay utca 17, 3rd fl;
four rooms of four to five beds. 6800/5700/5400Ft; m M1/2/3/Dek Ferenc tr; i ) Budapest, the Garibaldi has five rooms with s 38-63, d 50-75; g15,j47 or 49; KM Saga II Map p86;
Green Bridge Hostel (Map p86; %266 6922; www This place will put you right in the heart of shared bathroom and kitchen in a flat just %217 1934; IX Vmhz krt 11, 6th fl; i) This unique
.greenbridgehostel.com; V Molnr utca 22-24; bed in 8-bed town. With 179 beds on four floors, its the around the corner from Parliament. In the place has five themed rooms, an eclectic
dm 11-14, bed in 2/3/4/5-bed dm 25/19/18/17; mM3 largest hostel in Budapest, so dont expect same building, the gregarious owner has at mix of 19th-century furnishings and a hos-
Klvin tr; i) Few hostels truly stand out in the personal treatment. Still, its clean and least a half-dozen apartments available. pitable, multilingual Hungarian-American
terms of comfort, location and reception, upbeat, and theres a 24-hour bar. owner. Its essentially a gay B&B, but every-
but Green Bridge has it all in spades. HOTELS one is welcome. KM Saga II is somewhat
Bunks are nowhere to be seen, its on a PRIVATE ROOMS A room in a budget (ie one- or two-star) more modern but less atmospheric and has
quiet street just one block in from the Dan- Private rooms in Budapest generally cost hotel will cost more than a private room, three rooms.
ube and coffee is on offer gratis throughout 4500Ft to 6000Ft for a single, 6500Ft to though the management wont mind if you Radio Inn (Map pp80-1; % 342 8347; www.ra
the day. 8000Ft for a double and 8000Ft to 15,000Ft stay only one night. dioinn.hu; VI Benczr utca 19; s/d 52/75, 2-room apt 92;
Station Guesthouse (Map pp80-1; %221 8864; for a small apartment. Theres usually a 30% mM1 Bajza utca; i) Just off leafy Andrssy
www.stationguesthouse.hu; XIV Mexiki t 36/b; bed supplement on the first night if you stay Buda t, this place is a real find, with 33 large
in 14-/8-bed dm 2300/2800Ft, d & t per person 3600Ft, less than four nights. To get a room in the Papillon Hotel (Map pp80-1; % 212 4750; www one-bedroom apartments with bath and
q per person 3800Ft; red-numbered g7, j1 or 1A; i) city centre, you may have to try several of- .hotels.hu/papillon; II Rzsahegy utca 3/b; s/d/tr 38/48/58, kitchen, 10 with two bedrooms and one
This guesthouse in suburban Zugl is a real fices. You might need an indexed city map apt for 3/5 people 60/75; j4 or 6; pis) One with three bedrooms measuring between
party place, with a 24-hour bar, pool table (p65) to find the block where your room is of Budas best-kept accommodation secrets, 44 and 60 sq metres, all spread over five
and occasional live entertainment. It has located, though. this small 20-room hotel in Rzsa-domb has floors. The garden courtyard is a delight.
between 42 and 56 beds, depending on the Tourinform in Budapest does not arrange a delightful back garden with a small swim- Flandria Hotel (Map pp78-9; %350 3181; hotel
season. For those intending to stay a while, private accommodation, but will send you to ming pool. There are also two apartments flandria@axelero.hu; XIII Szegedi t 27; s/d/tr/q with
rates drop by 100Ft a night from the second a travel agency, such as To-Ma (Map p86; %353 available in the block just across the road. wash basin 5100/6300/7400/8600Ft, with shower 9500/
to the sixth night. 0819; www.tomatour.hu; V Oktber 6 utca 22; h9am-noon Hotel Csszr (Map pp80-1; % 336 2640; www 9500/12,000/14,000Ft; g4; p) The Flandria is a
Best Hostel (Map p84; %332 4934; www.besthos & 1-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; mM1/2/3 Dek .csaszarhotel.hu; II Frankel Le utca 35; s/d/q 42/53/84, classic example of a former workers hostel
tel.hu; VI Podmaniczky utca 27, 1st fl; dm 3000Ft, d/q per Ferenc tr). Among the best places to try for ste 116; j17, g86; as) The huge yellow that has been turned into a budget hotel.
BUDAPEST 106 B U D A P E S T S l e e p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T S l e e p i n g 107

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Dont expect anything within a couple of 88/112/132/150; j 18 or 19) Hidden away PEST university district, and within easy walking
light years of luxury, but the 116 guestrooms, in the Tabn district, this is a cosy place Hotel Hold (Map p84; %472 0480; www.hotelhold distance of the pubs and bars of Rday utca.
which have from one to four beds, a with a relaxed atmosphere and within easy .hu; V Hold utca 5; s/d 88/99, ste 121-165; mM3 Arany The 123 guestrooms mostly twins spread
TV and refrigerator, are both clean and walking distance of the Castle District. The Jnos; p) Housed in what was once a Jewish across eight floors are small and dark, with
serviceable. 30 rooms are bright and of a good size. school, the Moon is an excellent choice if generic hotel furniture.
Beatrix Panzi (Map p77; %275 0550; www.beatrix you want to stay in an affordable and ro- Carmen Mini Hotel (Map p86; %352 0798; carmen@
CAMPING hotel.hu; II Szher t 3; s/d/tr 60/65/75, apt 75-90; g5, mantic hotel right in the city centre. The 28 axelero.hu; Kroly krt 5/b, 2nd floor; s/d/tr 50/60/75;
Buda j56; p) Up in the Buda Hills but eas- rooms on two floors there is no lift look mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr; p) With nine rooms,
Rmai Camping (Map pp78-9; %388 7167; www ily accessible by public transport, this is down onto a central covered courtyard or this hotel is about the closest thing to a B&B
.hotels.hu/romaicamping; III Szentendrei t 189; camp sites per an attractive pension with 18 rooms. Sur- onto Hold utca. in Budapest. Its very close to Dek Ferenc tr
person/tent site/campervan/caravan 990/2250/ 2390/3580Ft, rounding the pension is a lovely garden with Hotel Sissi (Map pp88-9; %215 0082; www.hotel and convenient to all forms of transport.
1st-class cabins for 6 people 15,000Ft, 2nd-/3rd-class cab- fishpond, sun terraces and a grill; you might sissi.hu; IX Angyal utca 33; s/d 110/120, ste from 195; Benczr Hotel (Map pp80-1; %479 5650; www
ins per person 2500/1800Ft; hsite & cabins year-round; even organise a BBQ during your stay. mM3 Ferenc krt; p) Named in honour of .hotelbenczur.hu; VI Benczr utca 35; s 49-79, d 69-99;
ps) Located in a leafy park north of the Burg Hotel (Map p83; %212 0269; www.burghotel Elizabeth, the Habsburg empress, Hungar- m M1 Bajza utca; pa ) This rather faded
city opposite a popular swimming complex, budapest.com; I Szenthromsg tr 7-8; s/d 105/115, 2- ian queen and consort of Franz Joseph much place done up in creams and oranges has
Rmai is the citys largest camp site. To get person ste 127; g16 or Vrbusz; ai) This place beloved by Hungarians, the Hotel Sissi is 96 serviceable rooms (some of which look
there, take the HV suburban railway from with all the mod cons is in the Castle Dis- decorated in a minimalist-cum-elegant sort down on a leafy garden) spread over seven
the Batthyny tr metro station in Buda to trict, just opposite Matthias Church. The of style, and the 44 guestrooms spread over floors. Its just minutes away from Andrssy
the Rmaifrd station, which is almost 26 rooms are no more than just ordinary six floors are of a good size. t, Heroes Sq and City Park.
opposite the camp site. Use of the adjacent but, as they say, location is everything and Hotel Baross (Map pp80-1; %461 3010; www.ba Hotel Medosz (Map p84; %374 3001; www.me
strand and swimming pool is included. midrange options are as scarce as hens rosshotel.hu; VII Baross tr 15; s/d/tr/q 78/90/102/114, apt doszhotel.hu; VI Jkai tr 9; s/d/tr 55/65/7, ste from 93;
Zugligeti Niche Camping (% 200 8346; www teeth on Castle Hill. for 4/6/8 people 120/145/160; mM2 Keleti plyaudvar; mM1 Oktogon) One of the most central cheap
.campingniche.hu; XII Zugligeti t 101; camp sites per Carlton Hotel (Map p83; %224 0999; www.carlton ai) The flagship hotel of the Mellow hotels in Pest, the Medosz is just opposite
person/tent/caravan 1200/3800/4600Ft; h year-round; hotel.hu; I Apor Pter utca 3; s/d/tr 90/115/126; g86; Mood hostel group (p104), the Hotel Baross the restaurants and bars of Liszt Ferenc tr.
g158; p) This is a small camp site in the ai) A total revamp at the start of 2005 is a comfortable, 40-room caravanserai The 67 rooms are well worn but clean, and
Buda Hills for 200 campers at the bottom has given this 95-room hotel at the foot of conveniently located directly opposite Kel- have private bath and satellite TV; the best
station of the chairlift. Castle Hill and at the end of a narrow cul-de- eti train station. The bluer-than-blue inner ones are in the main block, not in the laby-
sac in Vzivros a cleaner, fresher look and courtyard is a delight, and reception, which rinthine wings.
Midrange an extra star. is on the 5th floor, is clean and bright, with Thomas Hotel (Map pp88-9; %218 5505; www
Budapest is not bereft of midrange options Hotel Victoria (Map p83; %457 8080; www.vic a dramatic central staircase. .hotels.hu/hotelthomas; IX Liliom utca 44; s 55-65, d 75-
altogether, but they are not as plentiful as toria.hu; I Bem rakpart 11; s/d/tr 102/107/148; g86, Le Panzi (Map p86; %266 9041; www.leopanzio 85; mM3 Ferenc krt; p) A brightly coloured
in Western European cities. Midrange j19; pi) This hotel has 27 comfort- .hu; V Kossuth Lajos utca 2/a, 2nd floor; s/d/tr 66/82/108; place in an odd location, this hotel has 45
usually pensions and hotels means any- able and spacious rooms with larger-than- mM3 Ferenciek tere) This place would be a find rooms and is a real bargain for its location in
thing between 12,500Ft (50) and 25,000Ft life views of Parliament and the Danube. It just on the strength of its central location, up-and-coming Ferencvros. Some rooms
(102) during any season. gets special mention for its friendly service but when you factor in the low cost, this including No 14 have balconies looking
and facilities, despite its small size. The best B&B is a discovery. A dozen of its 14 im- onto an inner courtyard.
BUDA rooms are on floor Nos 7 to 9. maculate rooms look down on busy Kossuth Star Hotel (Map pp80-1; %479 0400; www.star
Hotel Astra (Map p83; %214 1906; www.hotelastra Hotel Kulturinnov (Map p83; %224 8102, 06 Lajos utca, but they all have double-glazing hotel.hu; VII Istvn utca 14; s/d/tr/apt 64/80/90/120 late
.hu; I Vm utca 6; s/d/ste 90/105/135; mM2 Batthyny 20 544 5396; www.mka.hu; I Szenthromsg tr 6; s/d/tr and are quiet. Mar-Oct, 50/64/90/120; trolleybus 74 or 79; ai) A
tr, g86) Tucked away in a small street just 64/80/100; g16 or Vrbusz; p) A 16-room hotel Boat Hotel Fortuna (Map pp80-1; %288 8100; recent addition to the Mellow Mood hos-
west of F utca and just below the Castle in the former Finance Ministry, a neo- ww.fortunahajo.hu; XIII Szent Istvn Park, Pesti als rakpart; tel groups stable is this 48-room midrange
District is this hotel-cum-guesthouse in Gothic structure dating back to 1904, the s/d/tr with washbasin 20/30/40, with shower 65/80/100; hotel just a few minutes walk north of Ke-
a centuries-old townhouse. It has seven Kulturinnov cant be beat for location and trolleybuses 76 or 79; p) Sleeping on a one-time leti train station. The ground floor lobby is
double rooms, two suites and a family price in the Castle District. The guestrooms, river ferry anchored in the Danube that quite spacious and a popular meeting place
apartment essentially two doubles sep- though clean and with private bathrooms, goes nowhere may not be everyones idea for travellers; most of the guestrooms are
arated by a shared bathroom. are not as nice as the opulent public areas. of a good time, but its a unique experi- doubles spread over four floors.
IBS Garden Hotel (Map p77; %274 2088; www Bro Panzi (Map p83; %212 2929; http://buro ence. This boatel has 44 single and double
.ibsgardenhotel.hu; II Trogat t 2-4; s & d 59; g29, -panzio.Internettudakozo.hu; II Dkn utca 3; s/d/tr/q rooms with shower and toilet at water level, Top End
j56; pi) This newly opened midrange 8000/12,000/16,000/20,000Ft; mM2 Moszkva tr) A and 14 rooms with two or three beds and Double-room rates at top-end hotels start
hotel on the way to the Buda Hills, with pension just a block off the northern side wash basin below deck. at around 25,500Ft. From there the skys
100 rooms spread over five floors, is an ex- of Moszkva tr, this place looks basic from Erzsbet Hotel (Map p86; %889 3700; www.dan the limit.
cellent option for those who want to be very the outside, but its 10 rooms are comfort- ubiusgroup.com/erzsebet; V Krolyi Mihly utca 11-15; s 75-
close to the city but not exactly in it. able and have TV and telephone. They were 95, d 95-105; mM2 Ferenciek tere; p) One of Buda- BUDA
Orion Hotel (Map p83; % 356 8583; www.best recently renovated, so they retain that just- pests first independent hotels, the Erzsbet Artotel Budapest (Map p83; % 487 9487; www
western-ce.com/orion; I Dbrentei utca 13; s/d/tr/ste off-the-assembly-line look. is in a very good location in the centre of the .artotel.hu; I Bem rakpart 16-19; s/d/ste 198/218/298, with
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Danube view 218/238/318; g86, j19; nai) angst and sweat, this magnificent 179-room EATING Its a fairly elegant place, with art on the
The Artotel is a minimalist hotel that hotel has been created out of the long der- Very roughly, a two-course sit-down meal walls and piano music in the evening.
would not look out of place in London or elict Art-Nouveau Gresham Palace (1907). for one person with a glass of wine or beer
New York. But what makes this 165-room No expense was spared to piece back to- for under 2500Ft in Budapest is cheap, INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANTS
place unique is that it cobbles together a gether the palaces Zsolnay tiles, famous while a moderate meal will cost up to Rivalda (Map p83; %489 0236; I Sznhz utca; starters
seven-story modern building (views of the wrought-iron Peacock Gates and splendid 5000Ft. Theres a big jump to an expen- 975-1800Ft, mains 3000-4500Ft; h 11.30am-11.30pm;
Castle District and the Danube) and an 18th- mosaics, and the hotel is truly worthy of sive meal (5000Ft to 7500Ft), and very g16 or Vrbusz) An international caf-restaurant
century baroque building; theyre separated its name. expensive is anything above that. Most res- in an old convent next to the National
by a leafy courtyard-cum-atrium. K+K Hotel Opera (Map p84; %269 0222; www taurants are open from 10am or 11am to Dance Theatre with some modern Hungar-
Danubius Gellrt Hotel (Map pp80-1; % 889 .kkhotels.com/hotel_HO_en.aspx; VI Rvay utca 24; s/d/ 11pm or midnight; if there are no times ian favourites, Rivalda has a thespian theme
5500; www.danubiusgroup.com/gellert; XI Szent Gellrt ste from 168/209/336; mM1 Opera; ni) This listed under a particular entry, you can and delightful garden courtyard. This is one
tr 1; s 75-130, d 170-210, ste 270; j18, 19, 47 upbeat, Austrian-owned place just behind expect the place to be open between those of the very few places wed choose to visit in
or 49; pnas) Budapests grande dame the Hungarian State Opera House has 206 hours. Its always best to arrive by 9pm or the generally touristy and expensive Castle
is a 234-room, four-star hotel with loads of rooms spread over seven floors. Theyre on 10pm at the latest, though, to ensure being District.
character. The gorgeous thermal baths are the smallish side and decorated in unusu- served. It is advisable to book tables at me- Remz (Map p77; %275 1396; II Budakeszi t 5;
free for guests, but overall its other facilities ally cheerful colours predominantly yel- dium-priced to expensive restaurants. soups 780-1240Ft, starters 980-2620Ft, mains 1980-3220Ft;
are forgettable. Prices depend on which way lows, blues and reds which raises the h9am-midnight; g22, j56) Next to an old
your room faces and what sort of bathroom tenor of the whole place. Buda remz (tram depot) in the Buda Hills, this
it has. HUNGARIAN RESTAURANTS virtual institution remains excellent for its
MARGARET ISLAND Kisbuda Gyngye (Map pp78-9; %368 6402; III Kenyeres food (try the grilled dishes, especially the
PEST Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget (Map pp78- utca 34; soups 880-1180Ft, starters 920-2980Ft, mains 2380- ribs; 1980Ft to 2880Ft), prices and verdant
Andrssy Hotel (Map pp80-1; %462 2195; www 9; % 889 4700; www.danubiusgroup.com/grandhotel; 4880Ft; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat; g60, j17) This garden terrace.
.andrassyhotel.com; VI Andrssy t 111; standard s & d 134- XIII Margit-sziget; s/d/ste 153/168/198; g 26; is a traditional and very elegant Hungarian
240, ste from 161; mM1 Hsk tere; pnai) pnais) Built in the late 19th cen- restaurant in buda; the antique-strewn FRENCH RESTAURANTS
This stunning, five-star hotel just off leafy tury on Margaret Island, this comfortable dining room and attentive service manage Le Jardin de Paris (Map p83; % 201 0047; II F
Andrssy t has 70 tastefully decorated (rather than grand) and tranquil hotel has to create a fin-de-sicle atmosphere. Try the utca 20; soups 900-1900Ft, starters 1500-3000Ft, mains
rooms (almost half of which have balconies) 164 rooms with all the mod cons, and is con- excellent goose liver dishes (around 3400Ft) 1950-4650Ft; hnoon-midnight; g86) A regular
in a listed building. The lobby and ground- nected to the Danubius Thermal Hotel Mar- and more pedestrian items, like csirke pa- haunt of staff from the French Institute
floor restaurant were renovated in 2004; the gitsziget, via a heated underground corridor, priks (chicken paprika; 2380Ft). across the road (who should know their
use of etched glass and mirrors as well as where you can take the waters for free. Aranyszarvas (Golden Stag; Map p83; %375 6451; cuisine franaise), The Parisian Garden is
wrought iron is inspired. I Szarvas tr 1; soups 150-890Ft, starters 1100-2900Ft, in a wonderful old townhouse abutting an
Kempinski Hotel Corvinus (Map p86; % 429 mains 2180-3500Ft; hnoon-11pm; g86, j19) Set ancient castle wall. The back garden ablaze
3777; www.kempinski-budapest.com; V Erzsbet tr 7-8; AUTHORS CHOICE in an old 18th-century inn literally at the in fairy lights is a delight in summer.
s 260-410, d 300-450, ste from 570; mM1/2/3 Dek Residence Izabella (Map p84; %475 5900; foot of Castle Hill, this place serves what
Ferenc tr; nai) Essentially for business www.residenceizabella.com; VI Izabella utca 61; 1- else? game dishes. Theres piano music on ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
travellers on hefty expense accounts, the bedroom apt 180-330, 2-bedroom apt 440-605; Thursday to Saturday evenings. The cov- Marcello (Map pp88-9; %466 6231; XI Bartk Bla
Kempinski Hotel has European service, mM1 Vrsmarty utca; nai) Beg, bor- ered outside terrace is lovely in summer, t 40; soup 450Ft, pizza & pasta 820-950Ft, mains 1680-
American efficiency and Hungarian charm. row and/or steal to stay at this fabulous con- when grills are available. 2880Ft; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat; j18, 19, 47 or 49)
A recent (and very thorough) renovation version of a 19th-century Eclectic building Khli (Map pp78-9; %250 4241; III Mkus utca 22; Popular with students from the nearby uni-
has given both the hotels public areas and with 38 apartments just off swanky Andrssy soups 580-880Ft, starters 980-2880Ft, mains 1480-6280Ft; versity since it opened some 15 years ago,
369 guestrooms and suites a fresh new look t. The apartments, measuring between 45 hnoon-midnight; HV rpd hd) A rustic but styl- this father-and-son-owned eatery has good
and colour scheme. and 97 sq metres, surround a delightful and ish place in buda, Khli has some of the Italian fare at affordable prices. The salad bar
Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal (Map p84; %479 very tranquil central courtyard garden, and best traditional Hungarian food in town. (large/small 780/580Ft) is great value and the
4000; www.corinthia.hu; VII Erszbet krt 43-49; s 180- the dcor mixes materials such as wood, In fact, one of Hungarys best-loved writ- lasagne (950Ft) is legendary in these parts.
240, d 220-280, ste from 300; j4 or 6; nai) terracotta and basketry to great success. ers, the novelist Gyula Krdy (18781933), Sole dItalia (Map p86; % 483 0186; V Molnr
The erstwhile Royal Hotel on the Big Some might find the colour scheme of the who lived in nearby Dugovits Titusz tr, utca 15; pizza & pasta 990-1790Ft, mains 1190-2380Ft;
Ring road has reopened as a very grand guestrooms a tad too oatmeal with cream, moonlighted as a restaurant critic and en- h11am-10pm; g15) This place has super-
414-room, five-star hotel, and its lobby a but we love the use of wrought-iron furniture joyed Khlis bone marrow on toast (980Ft friendly service, good, inexpensive pizza
double atrium with massive marble staircase and room dividers to increase the feeling of as an entre and better than it sounds!) so and pasta dishes and wait for it some of
is among the most impressive in the capi- spaciousness. The kitchenettes have every- much, he included it in one of his novels. the cleanest toilets in town. Its convenient
tal. The hotel truly is a legend reborn. thing did we notice a potato peeler? Kacsa (Map pp80-1; % 201 9992; II F utca 75; to the nightlife strip along Rday utca.
Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel (Map p86; and the deluxe units are equipped with soups 450-750Ft, starters 800-2300Ft, mains 1200-3600Ft;
%268 6000; www.fourseasons.com/budapest; V Roosevelt washing machines and dishwashers. Long- hnoon-midnight; g86) Duck is the place to ASIAN RESTAURANTS
tr 5-6; s 250-740, d 280-770, ste from 950; mM1 term rentals earn big discounts. go quackers, though you need not restrict Seoul House (Map p83; %201 9607; I F utca 8; soups
Vrsmarty tr, g 15; nai ) After much yourself to duck dishes (2200Ft to 2800Ft). 400-1000Ft, rice & noodle dishes 2200Ft, mains 2100-2700Ft;
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hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat; g86) This place h9am-2am; mM2 Batthyny tr) Angelika is an- in old-world style. Its a caf-restaurant that
serves excellent Korean food from barbe- other charming caf this time attached AUTHORS CHOICE is still going strong after more than a cen-
cue grills to spicy kimchi cabbage. Not the to an 18th-century church with a lovely Malomt (Map pp80-1; %336 1830; II Frankel tury at the same location near the National
most atmospheric place in town, but very terrace overlooking the Danube. The food Le utca 48; soups 750-1100Ft, starters 1400-2100Ft, Museum. Theres a good selection of Hun-
authentic. is just so-so; come here for the cakes and mains 2400-4200Ft; hnoon-10pm; j17) The garian wine.
Mongolian Barbecue (Map pp80-1; %212 1859, the views. Mill Lake, north of Margit krt in Buda Firksz (Hack; Map pp80-1; % 450 1118; Ttra
212 3743; XII Mrvny utca 19/a; buffet before 5pm Demmers Teahz (Buda Map pp80-1; 345 4150; and just across from the Lukcs Baths, is utca 18; soups 590-790Ft, starters 1150-1690Ft, mains
2590Ft, after 5pm & Sat & Sun 4390Ft; hnoon-5pm & II Lvhz utca 12; teas 180-400Ft; h9.30am-7.30pm; a welcome arrival, with up-to-date, fresh 1990-3600Ft; hnoon-midnight; g15) Set up by
6pm-midnight; j61) This is one of those all- m M2 Moszkva tr; Pest Map p84; % 302 5674; dcor, and an inspired menu of modern former journalists (thus the name), this is a
you-can-eat pseudo-Asian places, but this VI Podmaniczky utca 14; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Hungarian and international especially retro Hungarian restaurant with lovely old
one includes as much beer and wine as you Sun; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar) This cosy little tea- game and seafood dishes, many with an mementoes on the walls, excellent home
can sink for the price. In summer seating house next to the Mammut shopping mall Asian spin. But its major draw is its unique cooking and a great wine list.
is also available in an attractive, tree-filled is the place to come in Buda if youre ser- position at the foot of a tiny lake filled with Mri Kisvendgl (Map pp80-1; % 349 8390;
courtyard. ious about your cuppa cha. Theres also a water lilies and croaking green frogs; a seat XIII Pozsonyi t 37; dishes 480-1500Ft; h10am-8pm Mon-
branch in Pest. on the terrace in the warmer months is not Thu, 10am-3pm Fri; trolleybuses 76 or 79) This simple
VEGETARIAN RESTAURANTS just recommended, its mandatory. We es- boroz (wine bar) and restaurant, a short
den (Map p83; %375 7575; I Dbrentei utca 9; soups QUICK EATS pecially liked the goose-liver sampler with walk north of Szent Istvn krt, has some
590-690Ft, mains 990-1490Ft; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu; International fast-food places are a dime a the birds organ prepared in three different of the best home-cooked Hungarian food
g86) This place in a mid-18th century dozen in Budapest, but old-style self-service ways, the Japanese pork wrap with plum in Budapest. But, as the owner warns our
townhouse below Castle Hill must have restaurants, the mainstay of both white- and and the lamb duet (minced wrapped in cab- dear readers, get here by 3pm if you want
the classiest location of any vegetarian res- blue-collar workers in the old regime, are bage and grilled chops). The roaring fire in to eat fzelk.
taurant anywhere. Seating is in the 1st-floor disappearing fast. As everywhere else, piz- winter is a nice touch. Its obviously a place Menza (Map p84; %413 1482; VI Liszt Ferenc ter 2;
dining room or, in warmer months, in the zerias are on an upward spiral. for all seasons and well keep going back. soups 590-650Ft, starters 990-1390Ft, mains 1390-2790Ft;
lovely courtyard. Fortuna nkiszolgl (Fortuna Self-Service Restau- h10am-midnight; j4 or 6) This upmarket Hun-
rant; Map p83; %375 2401; I Fortuna utca 4; soups 200- garian restaurant on Budapests most lively
CAFS & TEAHOUSES 300Ft, mains 500-700Ft; h 11.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri; a half-dozen branches throughout the city square takes its name from the Hungarian for
For the past two centuries Budapest has g16 or Vrbusz) Youll find cheap and quick and a thriving takeaway service (%814 1414), a drab school canteen something it is any-
been as famous as Vienna for its cafs, cake weekday lunches in the Castle District at this Il Treno is one of the most popular pizze- thing but. Book a table; its fabulously stylish
shops and caf culture; at the start of the very basic but clean and cheerful self-service rias in town. Seating at this branch is in the and always packed by diners who come for
20th century the city counted more than restaurant. Reach it via the stairs on the left neighbouring Trombits restaurant or, in its simply but perfectly cooked Hungarian
500 cafs, but by the time of the change in side as you enter the Fortuna Passage. warmer months, a positive oasis of a court- classics with a modern spin. Weekday two-
1989 (ie the collapse of communism) there z- Faloda (Drink-Eat Snack Bar; Map pp80-1; %345 yard off busy Moszkva tr. course set lunches are a snip at 790Ft.
were scarcely a dozen left. The majority of 4130, 238 0282; II Lvhz utca 12; soups 250-380Ft, mains Bagolyvr (Map pp80-1;%468 3110; XIV llatkerti
the traditional cafs are in Pest, but Buda 320-590Ft; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat; mM2 MARKETS & SELF-CATERING t 2; soups 500-880Ft, mains 1330-2400Ft; hnoon-11pm;
can still lay claim to several. Moszkva tr) This is a clean, modern and very Budapest counts some 20 large food mar- mM1 Hsk tere) With reworked Hungarian
Surprisingly, teahouses have made a cheap self-service place in the Fny utca kets, with the lions share of them in Pest. classics that make it a winner, the Owls
big splash in recent years in Budapest, the market next to the Mammut shopping mall. Fny utca market (Fny utcai piac; Map pp80-1; II Fny Castle attracts the Budapest cognoscenti,
capital of a country not normally associated It has excellent fzelk dishes (comfort food; utca; h6am-6pm Mon-Fri, 6am-2pm Sat), one of the who leave its sister restaurant next door,
with that beverage. when peas, green beans, lentils or marrow largest in Buda, is just next to the Mammut Gundel, to the expense-account brigade.
Auguszt (Map pp80-1; %356 8931; II Fny utca 8, are fried or boiled and then mixed into a shopping mall.
1st fl; cakes 150-350Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-6pm roux with milk). Supermarkets and 24-hour nonstop shops INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANTS
Sat; mM2 Moszkva tr) Tucked away on the 1st Nagyi Palacsintzja (Grannys Palacsinta Place; selling everything from cheese and cold cuts Robinson (Map pp80-1; %422 0222; XIV Vrosligeti-
floor of a building behind the Fny utca mar- Buda Map p83; %201 5321; I Hatty utca 16; set menus to cigarettes and beer abound in Buda. Fol- t; soups 790-890Ft, starters 1990-2890Ft, mains 2790-
ket and Mammut shopping mall, this is the 780-1060Ft; h24hr; mM2 Moszkva tr; Buda Map p83; lowing are two central ones: 4800Ft; hnoon-4pm & 6pm-midnight; mM1 Hsk
original Auguszt caf (there are imitators), %212 4866; I Batthyny tr 5; h24hr; mM2 Bat- Ezred Nonstop (Map p83; I Attila utca 57; h24hr) tere) Located in leafy City Park, Robinson
and only sells its own cakes, pastries and thyny tr; Pest Map p86; %418 0721; V Petfi Sndor Kaisers Supermarket (Map pp88-9; cnr XI Oktber is the place to secure a table on the lake-
biscuits. tr 17-19; h24hr; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) This 23 utca & Bercsnyi utca; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm side terrace on a warm summers evening.
Ruszwurm (Map p83; %375 5284; I Szenthromsg place, with branches in Buda and another Sat, 8am-3pm Sun; j4) Starters include sliced goose liver (2890Ft)
utca 7; cakes 190-440Ft; h9am-8pm; g16 or Vrbusz) across the river in Pest, serves Hungar- and home-made venison pt, and mains
This is the perfect place for coffee and cakes ian pancakes both the savoury (218Ft to Pest feature fogas (Balaton pike-perch; 3790Ft),
in the Castle District, though it can get pretty 398Ft) and sweet (118Ft to 398Ft) varieties HUNGARIAN RESTAURANTS grilled tuna and smoked duck breast cooked
crowded and its almost always impossible round the clock and is always packed. Mzeum (Map p86; %338 4221, 267 0375; VIII Mzeum on lava stones.
to get a seat. Il Treno (Map p83; %356 2846; II Retek utca 12; pizza krt 12; soups 700-800Ft; starters 1400-3400Ft, mains Caf Kr (Map p86; %311 0053; V Sas utca 17; salads
Angelika (Map pp80-1; %212 3784; I Batthyny 820-1790Ft, pasta 990-1290Ft; h11am-11pm; mM2 2400-4400Ft; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat; j47 or 49) 730-2110Ft, mains 1590-3190Ft; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat;
tr 7; salads 490-1490Ft, sandwiches 750-850Ft, cakes 310Ft; Moszkva tr) With a cheap set menu (950Ft), This is the place to come if you like to dine g15) Just behind St Stephens Basilica, the
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Circle Caf is a great place for a light meal hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat; trolleybus 74) Still the and burrito combination platos (plates; straight lines. Leafy VI Liszt Ferenc tr is
at any time, including late breakfast (460Ft most upmarket (and expensive) Italian res- 2090Ft to 2290Ft), or the frenetic and boozy surrounded by these hip cafs, and there are
to 590Ft). Salads, desserts and daily specials taurant in town, Faustos has brilliant pasta we-party-every-night atmosphere. a few on IX Rday utca and V Szent Istvn
are very good; there is also a three-/four- dishes, daily specials and desserts; there are tr behind St Stephens Basilica.
course wine-tasting menu for 4900/6900Ft. lots of choices for vegetarians. The yellow JEWISH & KOSHER RESTAURANTS Lukcs (Map p84; %302 8747; VI Andrssy t 70;
Mokka (Map p86; %328 0081; V Sas utca 4; soups walls and antique furniture provide an ele- Kinor David (Davids Harp; Map p86; %512 8783; VII cakes 200-500Ft; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat &
890-960Ft, mains 2450-5950Ft; hnoon-midnight; g15 gant touch, and the Italian wine selection Dohny utca 10; soup 800-1300Ft, mains 2800-3200Ft; Sun; mM1 Vrsmarty utca) This caf is dressed
or red-numbered 4) Its ethno-cuisine here, with is huge. h11am-11pm Mon-Fri & Sun, noon-2pm Sat; mM2 up in the finest of divine decadence all
a mishmash of dishes; youll need a map to Okay Italia (Pest Map p84; %349 2991; XIII Szent Astoria or trolleybus 74) Budapests largest kosher mirrors and gold and soft piano music (on
read the menu. But we love the space and the Istvn krt 20; pizza 1320-1790Ft, pasta 1460-2290Ft, restaurant is a cut above the usual. There weekday evenings), with a nonsmoking sec-
great African dcor, and theres a good wine mains 1680-3050Ft; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, noon- are special fish dishes (3000Ft to 4500Ft) tion, too. The selection of cakes is small but
list. The three-course set menu (7000Ft), in- midnight Sat & Sun; j4 or 6; Nyugati tr Map p84; %332 and Israeli treats (2600Ft to 3100Ft). You good; try the creamy Lukcs szelet.
cluding wine, is good value. 6960; V Nyugati tr 6; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar) This is pay in advance for Friday dinner and Sat- Mvsz (Map p84; %352 1337; VI Andrssy t 29;
Marquis de Salade (Map p84; %302 4086; VI Hajs a perennially popular place run by Italians, urday lunch. cakes 280-480Ft; h9am-11.45pm; mM1 Opera) Al-
utca 43; soups 800-1700Ft, salads 1200-1600Ft, mains 2500- with a nearby Nyugati tr branch serving most opposite the State Opera House, this
3400Ft; h11am-1am; trolleybuses 72 or 73) This is a just pasta and pizza. Most people come just ASIAN RESTAURANTS is a more interesting place to people-watch
serious hybrid of a place, with dishes from for either of those, in any case. Both restau- Bangkok House (Map p86; % 266 0584; V S than most (especially from the terrace),
Russia and Azerbaijan as well as Hungary. rants have terraces. utca 3; soups & Thai salads 550-2250Ft, mains 1450-4550Ft; though its cakes are not what they used to
There are lots of quality vegetarian choices, hnoon-11pm; j47 or 49) Bangkok House is be, with the exception of the alms torta
too, in the basement restaurant. GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANTS done up in kitsch, Asian-esque dcor that (apple cake).
Soul Caf (Map p86; %217 6986; IX Rday utca 11-13; Al-Amir (Map p86; %352 1422; VII Kirly utca 17; meze recalls takeaway places on any UK High Centrl Kvhz (Map p86; %266 4572, 266 2110;
starters 590-1890Ft, mains 1980-2980Ft; hnoon-11.30pm; 650-850Ft, mains 1490-2300Ft; hnoon-11pm; mM1 St. The Thai and Laotian-inspired dishes V Krolyi Mihly utca 9; cakes 290-350Ft, mains 1990-3590Ft;
mM3 Klvin tr) One of the better choices along Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 17) Arguably the most au- are acceptable, and service all but seamless. h8am-midnight; mM3 Ferenciek tere) This grande
a street heaving with so-so restaurants and thentic Middle Eastern (in this case, Syrian) A tourist menu (1460Ft) is available from dame that reopened a couple of years ago
iffy cafs, the Soul has inventive Continental place in town, and light years from the gyros noon to 4pm. after extensive renovations is still jostling
food and dcor, and you can order anything and falafel outlets found along the Big Ring Sushi An (Map p86; % 317 4239; V Harmincad to reclaim her title as the place to sit and
from a sandwich (850Ft) or a pizza (890Ft road. It has a window selling takeaway gyros utca 4; sushi 300-600Ft per piece, hand rolls 900-1400Ft, look intellectual in Pest. It serves meals
to 1500Ft) to a full meal, including many (500Ft) and falafels (450Ft), too, but were sets 1900-3900Ft; hnoon-10pm; mM1/2/3 Del tr) as well as lighter fare, like sandwiches
vegetarian dishes (590Ft to 1890Ft). It has talking quality here. A tiny sushi bar next to the British em- (750Ft to 1190Ft) and omelettes (890Ft to
a great terrace. Taverna Pireus Rembetiko (Map p86; %266 0292; bassy in central Pest. Its great for sushi and 990Ft).
V Fvm tr 2-3; starters 590-1590Ft, mains 1690-2290Ft; sashimi, but even better for Japanese sets Gerbeaud (Map p86; %429 9020; V Vrsmarty
FRENCH RESTAURANTS h noon-midnight; j 47 or 49) Overlooking a served with miso soup. tr 7-8; cakes 580-850Ft; h9am-9pm; mM1 Vrsmarty
Lou Lou (Map p86; % 312 4505; V Vigyz Ferenc patch of green and facing the Nagycsar- tr) This is the most famous of the famous
utca 4; soups 800Ft, starters 1600-2800Ft, mains 2300- nok (Great Market), this place serves rea- VEGETARIAN RESTAURANTS cafs in Budapest bar none. Founded in
4400Ft; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Fri, 7-11pm Sat; sonably priced and pretty authentic Greek Napfnyes zek (Map pp80-1; %351 5649; VII Rzsa 1858, it has been a fashionable meeting
g15) One of the most popular places with fare. Rembetiko is a folk music school and utca 39; soups 450-850Ft, pasta & pizza 1190-1490Ft, mains place for the citys elite on the northern
expatriate franais in Budapest is this lovely a style of traditional Greek music; there are 1190-1650Ft; h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, 12-10.30pm Sat & side of Pests busiest square since 1870.
bistro with excellent daily specials. Two live performances on Friday and Saturday Sun; trolleybuses 73 or 76) Sunny Tastes is a bit It serves a Continental breakfast (2880Ft)
signature dishes are the marinated grilled evening. out of the way (unless youre staying near and sandwiches (1300Ft to 2500Ft).
breast of duck with orange and Arabica Andrssy t), but the wholesome foods Caf Vian (Map p84; %268 1154; VI Liszt Ferenc
coffee sauce (3100ft), and the rack of lamb SPANISH & MEXICAN RESTAURANTS and the speciality cakes are worth the trip. tr 9; cakes 300-470Ft; h9am-1am; mM1 Oktogon)
with garlic and haricots verts (3600Ft). Pata Negro (Map p86; %215 5616; IX Klvin tr 8; There is an organic shop here, too. This comfortable caf done up in warm
tapas 250-650Ft, plates 500-1200Ft; h11am-midnight Govinda (Map p86; % 269 1625, 473 1309; peach tones and serving breakfast all day
ITALIAN RESTAURANTS Mon-Wed, 11am-1am Thu & Fri, noon-1am Sat, noon- V Vigyz Ferenc utca 4; soups 350Ft, dishes 240-450Ft; remains the anchor tenant on the sunny
Trattoria Toscana (Map p86; %327 0045; V Belgrd midnight Sun; mM3 Klvin tr) The Black Foot hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat; g15) Run by a Buddhist side of the tr and the court of Pests arty
rakpart 13; starters 990-3200Ft, pasta & pizza 1350-2690Ft, (its a kind of ham) is a new cellarlike Span- and blessed by the Dalai Lama, Govinda is aristocracy.
mains 1500-3390Ft; hnoon-midnight; g15) Hard ish tapas bar and restaurant at the (almost) in a basement near Chain Bridge. As well Negro (Map p86; %302 0136; V Szent Istvn tr 11;
by the Danube, this trattoria serves rus- top of trendy Rday utca. Good cheese and as wholesome salads, soups and desserts, it breakfast 320-908Ft; h8am-1am Mon-Wed, 8am-3am
tic and very authentic Italian and Tuscan an excellent wine selection, too. serves a daily set menu plate (large/small Thu & Fri, 8am-4am Sat, 8am-midnight Sun; g15) This
food, including ribollito alla chiantigiana, Iguana (Map p84; %331 4352; V Zoltn utca 16; start- 1600/1280Ft). stylish caf just behind the basilica (views!)
a hearty vegetable soup stewed with can- ers 430-1590Ft; mains 1890-3990Ft; h11.30am-12.30am; attracts Budapests ber trendy crowd,
nellini (white Tuscan beans) and Parmesan g15) Iguana serves decent-enough Mexi- CAFS & TEAHOUSES dressed to the nines (or did we see 10s?) and
cheese. The focaccia is excellent, too. can food (not a difficult task in this cantina Along with traditional cafs in Pest, a new sipping whatever is the latest concoction.
Faustos (Map p86; %269 6806; VII Dohny utca 5; desert), but its hard to say whether the pull breed of caf has emerged on the scene Teahz a Vrs Oroszlnhoz (Jkai tr Map p84;
soups 1300-3300Ft, starters 2400-4200Ft, mains 3200-6400Ft; is the chilli (1050Ft to 1490Ft), the enchilada all polished chrome, halogen lighting and %269 0579; VI Jkai tr 8; teas 480-630Ft; h11am-11pm
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Mon-Fri, 3-11pm Sat, 5-11pm Sun; mM1 Oktogon; Rday The centrally located Little Bell is popular with students Kaisers Supermarket (Map p84; VI Nyugati tr 1-2; Pest
utca Map p86; %215 2101; IX Rday 9; h11am-11pm and staff of the nearby Central European University. h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 7am-4pm Sun; mM3 Nyugati Kultiplex (Map pp80-1; % 219 0706; IX Kinizsi
Mon-Sat, 3-11pm Sun) This serene place with a Frici Papa Kifzdje (Papa Franks Canteen; Map p84; plyaudvar) Opposite Nyugati train station. utca 28; h10am-5am; mM3 Ferenc krt) This huge
mouthful of a name (it just means Tea- %351 0197; VI Kirly utca 55; soups 279-439Ft, mains Rothschild Supermarket (Map p84; XIII Szent Istvn complex has something for everyone
house at the Sign of the Red Lion) and two 429-529Ft; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat; j4 or 6) Excellent krt 4; h24hr; j4 or 6) Sells a good supply of kosher performance space, cinema, grill restaurant
branches is a funky and quite serious tea- fzelk dishes cost 289Ft to 339Ft. products. and a simple inside/outside bar where you
house north of Liszt Ferenc tr. can enjoy an unreconstructed drink.
MARKETS & SELF-CATERING There are nonstop shops open till very late Szimpla (Map p84; %342 1034; VII Kertsz utca 46;
QUICK EATS Most of Budapests 20-odd food markets or even 24 hours in Pest. Recommended hnoon-midnight Jun-Aug, 10am-2am Sep-May; j4
Middle Eastern fast-food is as popular in Bu- are in Pest. The vast majority are closed on shops: or 6) This is a distressed-looking, very un-
dapest as Indian is in London and Chinese Sunday, and Monday is always very quiet (if Nyugati ABC (Map p84; track No 13; h24hr; mM3 flashy place, just a hop, skip and a tumble
in New York. the market isnt closed altogether). Two of Nyugati plyaudvar) Located at the Nyugati train station. from the stilettos south of Liszt Ferenc tr.
Szerj (Map p84; %311 6690; XIII Szent Istvn the better ones are the Rkczi tr market (Map Keleti Csarnok (Map pp80-1; VIII Baross tr 3; h6am- Theres live music three nights a week.
krt 13; salads & meze 200-400Ft, mains 1100-1250Ft; pp80-1; VIII Rkczi tr 8; h6am-4pm Mon, 6am-6pm midnight; mM2 Keleti plyaudvar) Near Keleti train Paris, Texas (Map pp80-1; %218 0570; IX Rday
h9am-5am; j4 or 6) A very inexpensive self- Tue-Fri, 6am-1pm Sat; j4 or 6) and the Hold utca station. utca 22; h10am-1am Sun & Mon, 10am-3am Tue-Sat;
service Turkish place for felafels and kebabs market (Map p84; V Hold utca 11; h6am-5pm Mon, mM3 Klvin tr) One of the original bars on
(700Ft), with some 10 varieties on offer. 6.30am-6pm Tue-Fri, 6.30am-2pm Sat; mM3 Arany Jnos DRINKING the Rday utca nightlife strip, this place has
Hrom Testvr (Erzsbet krt Map p84; %342 2377; utca) near V Szabadsg tr. Following are two Budapest particularly Pest is loaded a coffee-house feel to it with old sepia-tinted
VII Erzsbet krt 17; salads 350-450Ft, gyros & kebabs 500- much larger and very colourful markets. with pubs and bars and there are enough photos on the walls and pool tables down-
900Ft; h9am-3am; Szent Istvn krt Map p84; %329 Nagycsarnok (Great Market; Map p86; IX Vmhz to satisfy all tastes. In summer the preferred stairs. The cocktail list is huge.
2951; XIII Szent Istvn krt 20-22; h9am-3am Sun-Wed, krt 1-3; h6am-5pm Mon, 6am-6pm Tue-Fri, 6am-2pm drinking venues are the outdoor kertek (see Darshan Udvar (Map p84; %266 5541; VIII Krdy
9am-4am Thu, 9am-5am Fri & Sat; j4 or 6; Terz krt Sat; j47 or 49) This is Budapests biggest mar- boxed text, p117). utca 7; h11am-1am Mon-Fri, 6pm -1am Sat & Sun; j4
Map p84; %312 5835; VI Terz krt 60-62; h9am- ket, though it has become a bit of a tourist or 6) This cavernous complex of two bars, a
3am; j4 or 6) Great any time but especially trap since its renovations in 1996. Still, plenty Buda restaurant and a courtyard terrace vegetar-
for a late-night snack or post-club bit of of locals head here for fruit, vegetables, deli Lnchd Srz (Map p83; %214 3144; I F utca 4; ian caf with dcor that combines Euro-
blotter, the Three Brothers has branches items, fish and meat. There are good food h10am-midnight; g86) The Chain Bridge techno with Eastern flair is a great escape
throughout Pest, including these three on stalls on the west side of the 3rd level. Pub has a wonderful retro Magyar feel to it, from the bars of VI Liszt Ferenc tr and the
the Big Ring road. Lehel Csarnok (Map pp80-1; XIII Lehel tr; h6am- with old movie posters and advertisements dull sophistication of IX Rday utca.
If youre looking for places like McDon- 6pm Mon-Fri, 6am-2pm Sat, 6am-1pm Sun; mM3 Lehel on the walls and red-checked cloths on the Becketts (Map p84; %311 1033; V Bajcsy-Zsilinszky
alds, Burger King and KFC, youll find tr) This is one of Pests more interesting tables. Friendly service, too. t 72; h10am-1am Sun-Thu, 10am-3am Fri & Sat; mM3
them everywhere in Pest especially around traditional markets, recently rehoused in a Erzsbet-hd Eszpressz (Map p83; %214 2785; Nyugati plyaudvar) Of the capitals ubiquitous
Oktogon. Much better are the new-style hideous boatlike structure designed by Ls- I Dbrentei tr 1; h10am-10pm; j19, g86) If Irish pubs, this is the best (and largest) of
self-service restaurants that cater to stu- zl Rajk, son of the Communist Minister of youre in the mood for a relaxing drink the lot, with all-day breakfast (1600Ft), as
dents and office workers, including Pick Hz the Interior executed for Titoism in 1949. in simple surrounds, the Elizabeth Bridge well as sandwiches (850Ft to 1700Ft) and
(Map p84; %331 7783; V Kossuth Lajos tr 9; sandwiches & This is apparently his revenge. Espresso Bar is a wonderful old dive with salads (1200Ft to 1300Ft). The new cocktail
salads 140-180Ft, mains 210-580Ft; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri; Mzes Kuck (Map p84; XIII Jszai Mari tr 4; a large terrace under a big plane tree and bar in the rear is an added attraction.
mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr), above the famous sa- h10am-6pm Mon-Fri year-round, 9am-1pm Sat Oct-May; views of the bridge.
lami manufacturers central showroom near j4 or 6) The Honey Nook is the place to go Oscar American Bar (Map p83; % 212 8017;
Parliament, and Central European University if youve got the urge for something sweet; I Ostrom utca 14; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, 5pm-4am Fri & AUTHORS CHOICE
cafteria (Map p86; %327 3000; V Ndor utca 9; soups its nut and honey cookies (180Ft per 10dg) Sat; mM2 Moszkva tr) The dcor is cinema- Cha Cha Cha (Map p86; %215 0545; h8am-
190-235Ft, pizza 220-250Ft, mains 380-495Ft; h11.30am- are to die for. A colourfully decorated mz- inspired film memorabilia on the wood- 3am Mon-Thu, 10am-4am Fri & Sat Sep-May, 9am-
4pm Mon-Fri; g15), which is open to all. eskalcs (honey cake) in the shape of a heart panelled walls, leather directors chairs on 11pm Jun-Aug; m M3 Klvin tr) Located in
Much more interesting places serving (400Ft to 600Ft) makes a lovely gift. the floor and the beautiful crowd often act the underpass at the Klvin tr metro, this
tastier dishes are the little restaurants called Butterfly (Map p84; VI Terz krt 20; 90Ft per scoop; like theyre on camera. Not to worry the is a campy, groovy caf-bar, with stripy,
tkezdk canteens not unlike British cafs h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; j4 or 6) The powerful cocktails (some 150, in fact) go distressed-looking chairs, faux-leather arm-
that serve simple dishes that change every Butterfly and not the pastry shop next down a treat. Theres music most nights. chairs, and a very and were talking Star
day. A meal can easily cost under 1000Ft. door called Vajasstemnyek boltja is the Caf Rolling Rock (Map pp80-1; % 368 2298; Wars here mixed crowd that really bops
Some of the better ones: place in Pest for ice cream, as youll be able III Bcsi t 53-55; h9am-1am Mon-Thu, 9am-2am Fri, at weeks end. Its a great place to meet
Kdr (Map p84; %321 3622; X Klauzl tr 9; soups to deduce from the queues outside. 9am-4am Sat, noon-midnight Sun; j17 or HV Szpvlgyi people, and it probably gets busier here in
400Ft, mains 580-1100Ft; h11.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sat; t) If you find yourself in buda in need of the wee hours than the entire station does
j4 or 6) In the Jewish area and probably the most Large supermarkets are everywhere in Pest. a libation, you could do worse than this during the day. In the past everyone went
popular of its type in town. We recommend: place, a revamped pub where the trendies island-hopping in summer to Cha Cha Cha
Kisharang (Map p86; %269 3861; V Oktber 6 Match Supermarket (Map p84; VIII Rkczi t; h6am- of buda (not necessarily a contradiction Terasz (see boxed text, p117) at the tip of
utca 17; soups 145-230Ft, mains 290-850Ft; h11am- 9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-8pm Sat, 7am-3pm Sun; mM3 Blaha in terms) gather for some of the peculiar Margaret Island.
8pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun; g15) Lujza tr) This supermarket faces Blaha Lujza tr. American brew in the little green bottles.
BUDAPEST 116 B U D A P E S T E n t e r t a i n m e n t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T E n t e r t a i n m e n t 117

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Champs Sport Pub (Map p86; % 413 1655; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri) This is the busiest theatrical ticket
VII Dohny utca 20; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, noon- agency, with tickets to plays and other events at theatres THE HEAT IS ON
2am Fri & Sat; mM2 Astoria) Owned by five Ol- around Budapest. During Budapests (usually) very long and very hot summer, so-called kertek, literally gardens but
ympic medallists, Champs is the place for Symphony Ticket Office (Szimfonikus Jegyiroda; Map in Budapest any outdoor spot that has been converted into an entertainment zone (including
sports fans and the vicarious, with two huge p84; %302 3841; VI Nagymez utca 19; mM1 Opera; courtyards and any available stretch along the river), empty out even the most popular indoor
screens and 35 TVs. The menu tells you h10am-7pm Mon-Fri) Come here for tickets to the bars and clubs. The venues (and their locations) can change from year to year and a definitive
how many calories and how much fat each philharmonic and other classical-music concerts. list is usually not available until about May; the best single source of information is Pestiside
dish contains and what you need to do (www.pestiside.hu). Some of the venues listed under Drinking (p115) and Nightclubs (opposite)
to lose it. Nightclubs have their own outside equivalent gardens that only blossom in summer. Some of the more
Piaf (Map p84; % 312 3823; VI Nagymez utca 25; popular ones in recent years:
ENTERTAINMENT h7pm-6am; mM3 Arany Jnos utca or trolleybuses 70 Caf del Rio (Map pp889; %06 30 297 2158; www.rio.hu in Hungarian; XI Goldman Gyrgy tr; h2pm-
For a city of its size, Budapest has a huge or 78) Piaf is the place to go when every- 4.30am; j4 or 6) On the northern side of Petfi Bridge on the Buda side, Rio is stylish but not up itself, with a
choice of things to do and places to go after thing else slows down. Theres dancing and pseudo tropical/carnival theme.
dark from opera and folk dancing to jazz action well into the new day. Most of the Cha Cha Cha Terasz (Map pp801; %215 0545; www.chachacha.hu in Hungarian; XIII Margit-sziget;
and mee(a)t-market clubs. Its usually not action and characters are in the smoky h4pm-4am; g26, j4 or 6) In the stadium at the southern tip of Margaret Island, Cha Cha Cha Terasz is an
difficult getting tickets or getting in; the cavern below. attitude-free venue, with great music and dance space.
hard part is deciding what to do. Sark (Map p84; % 06 30 282 9625; VII Klauzl Holdudvar (Map p86; %485 5270; VIII Mzeum krt 6-8; h8am-4am; mM2 Astoria) A large courtyard on
Your best sources of information for tr 14; h10am-3am Sun-Thu, 10am-5am Fri & Sun; j4 the grounds of the citys largest university has a predictably split personality: earnest and coffee-drinking, wild and
whats on in the city are the weekly free- or 6) This popular alternative music pub and out of control.
bie PestiEst (www.est.hu in Hungarian), published club on three floors has a big cellar with a Mokka Cuka (Map pp789; %453 2120; www.mokkacuka.hu; III budai-sziget; h24hr; HV Filatorigt)
every Thursday, and available at bars, cin- dance floor, where bands occasionally per- On the island that attracts the capitals beautiful people, Mokka Cuka is a leading outdoor underground venue
emas and fast-food joints; and the more form. Its all a bit student-clubbish. showcasing great indie DJs.
thorough weekly with everything from Sss Fl Nap (Map p84; %374 3329; V Honvd utca Szimpla Kert (Map p84; %321 5880; www.szimpla.hu; VII Kazinczy 14; hnoon-midnight; trolleybus 74) One
clubs and films to art exhibits and classical 40; h5pm-5am; j4 or 6) This cellar club at- of the capitals first kertek, Szimpla is just that a simple, low-key affair that keeps itself to itself.
music Pesti Msor (Budapest Program; www.pesti tracts a student crowd, and hosts lots of Szda Udvar (Map p86; %461 0007; V Jzsef ndor tr 1; hnoon-late; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr)
musor.hu in Hungarian), also called PM Program student bands and visiting talent. Its a lot This rather well-heeled venue a former bank headquarters pulls in a subdued crowd that lets loose on the base-
Magazin, available at newsstands every of fun and less expensive than many of the ment dancefloor in the wee hours.
Thursday for 149Ft. other clubs. Tzraktr (Map pp889; %06 70 523 1593; www.tuzraktar.hu; IX Tzolt utca 54-56; h5pm-3am; m3
Other freebies include the vastly inferior Kzgz Pince Klub (Map pp80-1; %215 4359, Klinikk) This abandoned factory building called the Fire Warehouse and its big courtyard plays host to all sorts of
(though English- and German-language) 218 6855; IX Fvm tr 8; h9pm-5am Tue-Sat; j47 cultural and party events.
Programme in Ungarn/in Hungary and its or 49) With few frills and cheap covers at the Zld Pardon (Map pp889; www.zp.hu; XI Goldman Gyrgy tr; h9am-6am; j4 or 6) What bills itself as the
scaled-down monthly version for the capital, Economics University, this is the pick-up worlds longest summer festival is a rockers paradise just opposite the Caf del Rio.
Budapest Panorama. The free Koncert Kalen- venue of choice for many a student. Avoid
drium, published monthly (bimonthly Wednesday unless you like karaoke.
in summer), has more serious offerings: Kamleon (Map pp80-1; %345 8547; Mammut II, Budapests flagship gay club. It welcomes Jailhouse (Map pp88-9; %06 30 989 4905, 218 1368;
concerts, opera, dance etc. A welcome ar- 4th fl, II Lvhz utca 2-6; h5pm-midnight Sun-Thu, 5pm- girls on Friday and Sunday. IX Tzolt utca 22; mM3 Ferenc krt) Lesbian parties
rival is Mr Gordonskys Budapest City Spy 3am Fri & Sat; mM3 Moszkva tr) This throbbing CoXx (Map p84; %344 4884; VII Dohny utca 38; are held on the first Friday of the month. For more details,
Map, a hip little publication with all sorts club in the newer wing of Budas massive h9pm-4am Sun-Thu, 9pm-5am Fri & Sat; g7 or 7/a) see below.
of insiders tips. Its available free at pubs Mammut shopping mall is a true chameleon, This cellar bar has a DJ and small dance floor,
and bars. with a different party every night from but its more of a pub than a club. Theres a Live Music
La Noche Cubana on Friday to live bands gallery and Internet caf (hnoon to 4am Mon-Fri, ROCK & POP
Booking Agencies on Monday. 9pm-4am Sat & Sun) at street level just to let you Wigwam Rock Blues Club (Map pp88-9; %208 5569;
The most important and/or useful booking Bank Dance Hall (Map p84; %06 20 344 4888; know this place has a serious side, too. XI Fehrvri utca 202; h8pm-5am; j41 or 47) This
agencies in Budapest include those listed VI Terz krt 55; h10pm-4am Sun-Thu, 10pm-5am Fri Action (Map p86; %266 9148; V Magyar utca 42; place is one of the best of its kind in Hungary,
here. You can book almost anything on- & Sat; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar) In the southern h9pm-4am; mM3 Klvin tr) Action is where and hosts some big-name Hungarian rock
line at www.jegymester.hu and www.kultur wing of Nyugati train station next to Mc- to head if you want just that. Take the usual and blues bands on Friday and Saturday.
info.hu. Donalds, this enormous disco has rhythm precautions and have a ball. Gdr Klub (Map p86; %06 20 943 5464; V Erzsbet
Ticket Express (Inner Town Map p86; %information 312 and blues on the 1st floor, house and trance There are no specific girl bars in Buda- tr; h9am-late; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) This new
0000, bookings 06 30 303 0999; www.tex.hu; Andrssy on the 2nd, Dance on the 3rd and funk- pest, though we recommend: arrival in the old bus bays below Elizabeth Sq
t 18; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; mM1 Opera; Jzse- house (a Hungarian thing) on the 4th. Caf Eklektika (Map p86; %266 1226; V Semmelweis in central Pest is a real mixed bag, offering
fvros Map p84; %334 0369; MCD Zeneruhz, VIII Jzsef utca 21; j47 or 49; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, 5pm- everything from folk and jazz but especially
krt 50; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; j4 or 6) The Gay & Lesbian Venues midnight Sat & Sun) Attracts a mixed crowd. rock.
largest ticket-office network in the city, with eight outlets. Angel (Map p84; %351 6490; VII Kazinczy utca 2; Candy (Map p86; %789 2130, V Kossuth Lajos Jailhouse (Map pp88-9; %06 30 989 4905, 218 1368;
Central Ticket Office (Kzponti Jegyiroda; Map p86; h10pm-5am Fri-Sun; mM2 Astoria) Also known utca 17; mM2 Astoria) Lesbian parties are held on the IX Tzolt utca 22; h10pm-5am Fri & Sat; mM3 Ferenc
%267 9737, 267 1267; VI Andrssy t 15; mM1 Opera; by its Hungarian name, Angyal, this is last Saturday of the month. krt) A small venue next to the Traf House
BUDAPEST 118 B U D A P E S T E n t e r t a i n m e n t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T E n t e r t a i n m e n t 119

BUDAPEST
of Contemporary Arts (opposite), with a utca 3; j41 or 47) This place has regular The Pesti Vigad (Map p86; %318 9903, 318 9167; addition the Rajk Folk Ensemble (Rajk
friendly atmosphere, underground DJs and programmes always at 8pm on Wednes- V Vigad tr 2; mM1 Vrsmarty tr, j2 or 2/a) and Npi Egyttes) stages folk-dance perform-
live music. day and the second Friday of each month, as the Duna Palota (Map p86); %235 5500, 317 2790; ances at the Budapest Puppet Theatre (below)
Budapest Sportcsarnok (Map pp80-1; % 422 well as other days. Consult its website. V Zrnyi utca 5; g15) have light classical music, on Saturday, and the Duna Folk Ensemble
2600; www.budapestarena.hu; XIV Stefnia t 2; mM2 Almssy tr Recreation Centre (Almssy and touristy musical revues in summer. (Duna Npi Egyttes) dances at the Duna
Stadionok) This new arena named after the tri Szabadid Kzpont; Map pp80-1; % 352 1572; Palota (left) just off Roosevelt tr in Pest
Hungarian pugilist Lszl Papp is where VII Almssy tr 6; trolleybus 74) This is a venue for Opera on Monday and Wednesday. The 1-hour
the likes of Phil Collins, Duran Duran, Rod just about anything thats in and/or inter- Hungarian State Opera House (Magyar llami Op- programmes begin at 8pm, and tickets cost
Stewart and Simply Red warble. esting, from rock and blues to folk music. erahz; Map p84; %information 353 0170, tickets 332 from 4600/4200Ft per adult/student. Con-
Petfi Csarnok (Map pp80-1; %363 3730, 251 Theres Hungarian dance house every sec- 7914; www.opera.hu; VI Andrssy t 22; hticket office tact Hungaria Koncert (%317 2754, 201 5928; www
7266; www.petoficsarnok.hu; XIV Zichy Mihly t 14; ond Saturday at 7.30pm. 11am-7pm Mon-Sat, 4-7pm Sat & Sun; mM1 Opera) The .ticket.info.hu) for information and bookings.
mM1 Szchenyi frd or trolleybuses 72 or 74) The Ptkulcs (Spare Key; Map p84; % 269 1050; opera house should be visited at least once National Dance Theatre (Nemzeti Tncsznhz; Map
citys main youth centre, in City Park, is VI Csengery utca 65/b; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar) This to admire the incredibly rich decoration in- p83; %information 201 4407, tickets 375 8649; www
the place for smaller rock concerts as the wonderful little venue, with a varied menu side as much as to view a performance and .nemzetitancszinhaz.hu; I Sznhz utca 1-3; hticket office
hall is intimate enough to get really close to of music most nights, has dance house at hear the perfect acoustics. 1-6pm; g16 or Vrbusz) The National hosts at
the performers. 8pm every Tuesday. Erkel Theatre (Erkel Sznhz; Map pp80-1; %333 some point every troupe in the city, in-
Two city cultural houses in Buda have 0540; VIII Kztrsasg tr 30; hticket office 11am-7pm cluding the two ballet companies and the
JAZZ & BLUES frequent folk programmes. Tue-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sun; mM2 Honvd Ensemble, one of the citys best
Columbus Jazzklub (Map p86; %266 9013; V Pesti als Municipal Cultural House (Fvrosi Mveldsi Keleti plyaudvar, g7 or 7/a) Budapests modern folk troupes and now experimenting with
rakpart; hnoon-midnight; j2 or 2/a) This place Hza; Map pp88-9; %203 3868; XI Fehrvri t 47; j41 (and ugly) second opera house is southwest modern choreography as well.
located on a boat moored in the Danube, or 47) The Folklr Centrum based here has of Keleti train station.
just north of V Vigad tr opposite the folk music every Friday at 7.30pm and a Budapest Operetta (Budapesti Operettsznhz; Map Theatre
Budapest Inter-Continental Hotel, has childrens dance house hosted by the incom- p84; % 472 2030, 269 3870; www.operettszinhaz.hu; Merlin Theatre (Map p86; %317 9338, 266 4632;
transformed itself from being just another parable Muzsiks (p42) every Tuesday from VI Nagymez utca 17; hticket office 10am-7pm Mon- www.merlinszinhaz.hu; V Gerlczy utca 4; m M1/2/3
Irish pub to a jazz club of note with big- 5pm to 6.30pm. Fri, 1-7pm Sat & Sun; mM1 Opera) This theatre Dek Ferenc tr, j47 or 49) This theatre, in Pest,
name local and international bands. Marczibnyi tr Cultural Centre (Marczibnyi tri presents operettas always a riot, especially stages numerous plays in English, often
Fat Mos Music Club (Map p86; %267 3199; V Nyry Mveldsi Kzpont; Map pp80-1; %212 0803, 212 2820; campy ones like the Queen of the Csrds performed by the Merlins Atlantis Com-
Pl utca 11; hnoon-2am Mon & Tue, noon-3am Wed, noon- II Marczibnyi tr 5/a; j4, 6 or 49) Offers Hungar- by Imre Klmn. pany and the local Madhouse troupe. Usu-
4am Thu & Fri, 6pm-4am Sat, 6pm-2am Sun; mM3 Ferenciek ian, Moldavian and Slovakian dance and ally pretty serious stuff, with little scenery
tere, g15) With a speakeasy 1920s Prohib- music every Wednesday from 8pm. Dance and few props.
ition theme, this club has jazz (and some- Aranytz Cultural Centre (Aranytz Mveldsi CLASSICAL International Buda Stage (IBS; Map p77; %391
times country) from 9pm or 9.30pm. DJs Kzpont; Map p86; %354 3400, 311 2248; V Arany Jnos Budapests two so-so ballet companies 2525; www.ibs-b.hu; II Trogat t 2-4; j56, g29)
take over at midnight Thursday to Saturday. utca 10; g15) At this new cultural centre in the Hungarian National and the Hungarian Further afield in Buda, the Buda Stage is
Jazz Garden (Map p86; %266 7364; V Veres Pln Pest the wonderful Kalamajka Tnchz has Festival Ballet troupes perform at the Hun- a more recent arrival, with occasional
utca 44/a; h6pm-1am Sun-Thu, 6pm-2am Fri & Sat; j47 programmes from 5pm on Saturday that garian State Opera House, the Erkel Theatre performances often comedies in English.
or 49) A sophisticated venue with traditional, frequently run to well after 2am. and at the National Dance Theatre. National Theatre (Nemzeti Sznhz; Map pp88-
vocal and Latin jazz, and odd dcor: a faux For modern dance fans there are several 9; % information 476 6800, tickets 476 6868; www
cellar garden with street lamps and a night CLASSICAL good options, including the Traf House of .nemzetiszinhaz.hu; IX Bajor Gizi park 1; hticket office
sky bedecked with blinking stars. Book a The Koncert Kalendrium highlights all Contemporary Arts (Traf Kortrs Mvszetek Hza; Map 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun; j2 or 2/a) This
table (starters 1420Ft to 2250Ft, mains concerts in Budapest monthly. The main pp88-9; %information 456 2040, tickets 215 1600; www rather eclectic venue is the place to go if you
2250Ft to 3490Ft) in the dining room; music concert halls are the National Concert .trafo.hu; IX Liliom utca 41; mM3 Ferenc krt), which want to brave a play in Hungarian or just
starts at 9.30pm. Hall (Nemzeti Hangversenyterem) and the presents the cream of the crop, including a check out the bizarre architecture (p94).
smaller Festival Theatre (Fesztivl Sznhz) good pull of international acts, as well as the Budapest Puppet Theatre (Bbsznhz; Map p84;
FOLK & TRADITIONAL at the new Palace of Arts (Mvszetek Palotja; Map Central Europe Dance Theatre (Kzp-Eurpa Tnc- %information 342 2702, 321 5200; www.budapest-babs
Authentic tnchz, literally dance house pp88-9; %information 555 3000, tickets 555 3301; www sznhz; Map pp80-1; %342 7163, 06 30 526 1024; www zinhaz.hu; VI Andrssy t 69; tickets 500-1100Ft; mM1
but really folk-music workshops, are held at .mupa.hu; IX Komor Marcell utca; hticket office 1-6pm .cedt.hu; VII Bethlen Gbor tr 3; trolleybuses 74 or 78). Vrsmarty utca) The puppet theatre, which
various locations throughout the week, but Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun; j2 or 2/a) and the stun- usually doesnt require fluency in Hungar-
less frequently in summer. Times and ven- ning Liszt Academy of Music (Liszt Zeneakadmia; Map FOLK ian, presents shows designed for children
ues often change; consult one of the publica- p84; %342 0179; www.zeneakademia.hu; VI Liszt Ferenc The 30 dancers of the Hungarian State Folk on weekdays (usually at 10am or 10.30am
tions earlier in this section (p116) or check tr 8; hticket office 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 2-8pm Sat & Sun; Ensemble (Magyar llami Npi Egyttes) and 4pm) and folk programmes for adults
out Dance House Guild (www.tanchaz.hu). The best mM2 Oktogon) in Pest, and the modern Buda- perform at the Buda Concert Hall (Budai Vigad; occasionally in the evening.
local klezmer (Jewish folk music) is the Buda- pest Congress Centre (Budapesti Kongresszusi Kzpont; Map p83; %201 3766 I Corvin tr 8; g86, j19) in
pest Klezmer Band (www.budapestklezmer.hu). Map pp80-1; %information 372 5700, tickets 372 5429; Buda on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday Cinemas
Fon Buda Music House (Fon Budai Zenehz; www.bcc.hu; XII Jagell t 1-3; g8 or 112) in Buda, from May to mid-October, and on Saturday A couple of dozen cinemas screen English-
Map pp88-9; %206 5300; www.fono.hu; XI Sztregova which has just had a total renovation. and/or Sunday only the rest of the year. In language films with Hungarian subtitles.
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Consult the listings in the Budapest Sun literally, under the arse of the frog as the of the biggest and best flea markets in Cen- handmade glasses, ceramics and bound
newspaper, Pesti Est or Pesti Msor (p116). Hungarians describe something really far tral Europe, selling everything from antique books.
Corvin Film Palace (Corvin Filmpalota; Map pp80-1; down remains as great a mystery as the jewellery and Soviet army watches to Fred Folkart Centrum (Npmvszet; Map p86; %318
%459 5050; VIII Corvin kz 1; mM3 Ferenc krt) allure of Cliff Richard. Hungarys defeat of Astairestyle top hats. Saturday is said to be 5840; V Vci utca 58; h10am-7pm; g15) This is a
This cinema, which saw a lot of action during the 1956 the England team both at Wembley (6-3) in the best day to go. To get there, take bus 54 large shop where everything Magyar-made
Uprising, has been fantastically renovated and is worth a 1953 and at home (7-1) the following year, from Borros tr in Pest or, better, the red is available folk costumes, dolls, painted
visit. Note the two wonderful reliefs outside. are still talked about as if the winning goals express bus 54 from the Hatr utca stop on eggs, embroidered tablecloths and prices
rkmozg Film Museum (rkmozg Filmmzeum; were scored yesterday. the M3 metro line and get off at the Fiume are clearly labelled. The staff are very helpful
Map p84; %342 2167; VII Erzsbet krt 39; j4 There are four premier league football utca stop. Then follow the crowds over the and will advise.
or 6) Part of the Hungarian Film Institute, this cinema teams in Budapest out of a total of 12 na- pedestrian bridge.
(whose name vaguely translates as moving picture) tionwide, including: Kispest-Honvd, which City Park flea market (Vrosligeti bolhapiac; Map Glassware & Porcelain
screens an excellent assortment of foreign classic films in plays at Jzsef Bozsik Stadium (%282 9791, 282 pp80-1; % 363 3730, 251 7266; www.bolhapiac.com; Herend (Map p86; %317 2622; V Jzsef ndor tr 11;
their original languages. 9789; XIX j temet t 1-3; g36), accommodating XIV Zichy Mihly utca 14; h7am-2pm Sat & Sun; j1 h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; mM1 Vrsmarty
Mvsz (Map p84; %332 6726; VI Terz krt 30; 15,000 spectators; MTK at Hungria Stadium or 1/a or trolleybuses 70, 72 or 74) This is a huge tr) For both contemporary and traditional
mM1 Oktogon, j4 or 6) Shows artsy and cult films. (Map pp80-1; %219 0300; VIII Salgtarjni utca 12-14; outdoor flea market a kind of Hungarian fine porcelain, there is no other place but
Puskin (Map p86; %429 6080; V Kossuth Lajos j1 or 1/a), accommodating 8000 spectators; boot or garage sale held next to the Petfi Herend.
utca 18; g7 or 7/a) Screens a mix of arthouse and and UTE at UTE Stadium (Map pp78-9; %369 Csarnok (p118) in City Park. The usual dia- Herend Village Pottery (Map pp80-1; %356 7899;
popular releases. 7333; IV Megyeri t 13; g47 or 96), accommodating monds-to-rust stuff is on offer from old II Bem rakpart 37; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat;
Urnia National Cinema (Urnia Nemzeti Filmsznhz; 15,000 fans. But no club dominates Hun- records and draperies to candles, honey and mM2 Batthyny tr) Stocks hard-wearing pot-
Map p84; %486 3413; VIII Rkczi t 21; g7 or 7/a) garian football like Ferencvros (FTC), the herbs. Sunday is the better day to visit. tery and dishes decorated with bold fruit
This all-Art Deco/neo-Moorish extravaganza is a tarted-up countrys loudest and brashest team, and its If you dont have time to get to the Ecseri patterns; an unusual alternative to what
film palace. It has an excellent caf. only hope. You either love the Fradi boys in or City Park flea markets, check out any of some might describe as rather prissy (and
green and white or you hate them. Watch the BV stores (Bizomnyi Kereskedhz s Zloghitel; fragile) Herend flatware.
Circus them play at FTC stadium (Map pp88-9; %215 % 325 2600; h 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat), Zsolnay (Map p86; %266 6305; V Vci utca 19-
Municipal Great Circus (Fvrosi Nagycirkusz; Map pp80- 1013; IX Knyves Klmn krt 26; mM3 Npliget), with essentially a chain of pawn and second- 21; h10am-7pm; mM3 Ferenciek tere) For both
1; %343 8300, 343 6002; www.maciva.hu in Hungarian; space for 18,000 spectators. Check Nemzeti hand shops with many branches around contemporary and traditional fine Zsolnay
XIV llatkerti krt 7; adult 1200-1900Ft, child 900-1500Ft; Sport for game schedules. town. Try the VI Andrssy t branch (Map p84; porcelain from Pcs, check out this place.
mSzchenyi frd) Europes only permanent big %342 9143; VI Andrssy t branch 43; mM1 Opera) We like the iridescent green frogs.
top has everything one would expect from HORSE RACING for old jewellery, watches and silver; the Haas & Czjzek (Map p84; %311 4094; VI Bajcsy-
a circus, including acrobats, dare devils on The descendants of the nomadic Magyars V Bcsi utca branch (Map p86; %318 4403; V Bcsi utca Zsilinszky t 23; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat;
horseback and ice shows in season. Perform- are keen on horse racing. Kincsem Park (Map 1-3; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) for knick-knacks, mM3 Arany Jnos utca) Just up from Dek Fer-
ances are at 3pm Wednesday to Sunday, with p77; %433 0522; www.kincsempark.com; X Albertirsai porcelain and glassware; the XIII Szent Istvn enc tr, this chinaware and crystal shop
additional shows at 10.30am on Saturday t 2; mM2 Pillang utca) is the place to go for krt branch (Map p84; %473 0666; XIII Szent Istvn sells Zsolnay, as well as more affordable
and Sunday and at 7pm on Saturday. both get (trotting) and galopp (flat rac- krt 3; j4 or 6) for chinaware, textiles and Hungarian-made Hollhza and Alfldi
ing). Schedules can change, but in general artwork; and the II Margit krt branch (Map porcelain.
Sport three trotting meetings of 10 to 11 races pp80-1; %315 0417; II Margit krt 4; j4 or 6) for Ajka Kristly (Map p84; % 332 4541; VI Terz
WATER POLO take place weekly, usually 3pm on Saturday furniture, lamps and fine porcelain. krt 50; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat; mM3
The Hungarian Water Polo Association (MVLSZ; and Sunday, and 4pm or 5pm on Wednes- Nyugati plyaudvar) Established in 1878, Ajka
%412 0041; www.waterpolo.hu in Hungarian) is based day. Flat racing usually takes place from Gifts & Souvenirs has Hungarian-made lead crystal pieces
at the Alfrd Hajs swimming complex (p98) 2pm on Thursday and Sunday between Holl Atelier (Map p86; %317 8103; V Vitkovics Mi- and stemware. Most of it is very old fash-
on Margaret Island. Matches take place here May and early November. hly utca 12; h 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat; ioned, but there are some more contempor-
and at two other pools: the Bla Komjdi mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) Off the northern end ary pieces.
Swimming Pool (p99) in Buda and the BVSC SHOPPING of Vci utca, this place sells attractive folk
(Map pp80-1; %251 3888; XIV Sznyi t 2; trolleybuses Budapest is a great place to satisfy that art with a modern look and remains a per- Wine & Spirits
74 or 74/a) in Pest from September to May. If urge to buy, and youll find all the prod- sonal favourite place to shop for gifts. Budapest Wine Society (Batthyny utca Map p83; %212
you want to see a match or watch the lads ucts described in the Directory (p375) in Hungaricum (Map p83; % 487 7306; I Fortuna 2569; www.bortarsasag.hu; I Batthyny utca 59; h10am-
in training in summer, call the MVLSZ for full supply here. But some people consider utca 1; h9am-9pm; g16 or Vrbusz) This shop 8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat; mM2 Moszkva tr; Rday
times and dates, or get someone to check the citys flea markets their highlight not conveniently located in the Castle District utca Map p86; %219 5647; IX Rday utca 7; hnoon-8pm
schedules for you in the daily Nemzeti Sport just as places to indulge their vice, but as the sells quality Hungarian handicrafts, as well Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; mM3 Klvin tr) This society
(National Sport; 99Ft) available at news- consummate Budapest experience. as foodstuffs (eg potted goose liver and has retail outlets with an exceptional selec-
stands everywhere. honey), wines and plinka (brandy). tion of fine Hungarian wines. No-one, but
Flea markets Intuita (Map p86; % 266 5864; V Vci utca 67; no-one, knows Hungarian wines like these
FOOTBALL Ecseri Piac (Map pp88-9; %282 9563; XIX Nagykrsi h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; g15) Youre guys do.
Hungarys descent from the top of the heap t 156; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 6am-3pm Sat, 8am-1pm not about to find painted eggs and plinka La Boutique des Vins (Map p86; %317 5919;
of European football to a bka segge alatt Sun) Often called the piac (market), its one here, but modern Hungarian folk craft, like V Jzsef Attila utca 12; h 10am-6pm Mon-Fri,
BUDAPEST 122 B U D A P E S T G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T G e t t i n g A r o u n d 123

BUDAPEST
10am-3pm Sat; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) Owned by Pest. The international ticket office (h6am-6pm depending on the length of the rental (one The train stations are generally pretty
the former sommelier at Gundel, the ingen- Mon-Fri Sep-May, 6-8pm Mon-Fri Jun-Aug, 6am-4pm Sat day to three weeks). Another good bet is dismal places, with unsavoury-looking
iously named Wine Shop (sounds better & Sun) is upstairs. Eurolines (%219 8021; www Fox Autorent (%382 9000; www.fox-autorent.com; characters hanging about day and night,
than Bor Boltja) has an excellent selection .eurolines.com) is represented here, as is its XXII Nagyttnyi t 48-50; h8am-8pm; g3, 14 or 114), but all have some amenities. The left-lug-
of Hungarian wines. Ask the staff to recom- Hungarian associate Volnbusz (%382 0888; which charges from 46/230 per day/week gage office at Keleti train station (h24hr)
mend a label if when you feel lost. www.volanbusz.hu). Theres a left-luggage office for a Fiat Seicento, 55/320 for a Smart car is next to platform No 6. At Nyugati train
Hungarian Plinka House (Magyar Plinka Hz; (h6am-9pm) downstairs that charges 190Ft and 59/349 for a Fiat Punto (kilometres station (h4am-midnight) and Dli train station
Map p84; % 338 4219; www.magyarpalinkahaza.hu; per piece per day. and insurance included). (h3.30am-11.30pm) its beside the information
VIII Rkczi t 17; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat; mM2 Astoria) Stadionok bus station (Map pp80-1; %251 0125; Assistance and/or advice for motorists is and ticketing hall. They charge 150/300Ft
If youre into Hungarian plinka, the ex- XIV Hungria krt 48-52; hticket office 6am-6pm Mon- available from the Hungarian Automobile Club for a normal/large piece for six hours and
quisite brandy flavoured with everything Fri, 6am-4pm Sat & Sun; m M3 Stadionok) serves (Magyar Autklub; Map pp80-1; %212 2821, 24hr helpline 300/600Ft per day. Youll also find post of-
from apricot and sour cherry to (be still, cities and towns to the east of Budapest. 345 1755; II Rmer Flris utca 4/a; j4 or 6) off Margit fices and grocery stores that are open late or
our heart) raspberry, make a beeline for this The ticket office and the left-luggage office krt near Margaret Bridge. Motorists any- even round the clock.
place. It stocks hundreds of varieties. (h6am-7pm; per piece 200Ft) are on the ground where in Hungary can call the automobile The three main train stations are on metro
floor. Buses to southwest Hungary use Etele club on %188 for assistance. lines and night buses serve them when the
GETTING THERE & AWAY tr bus station (Map pp88-9; %382 4900; XI Etele tr; For information on traffic and public metro is closed. If you need to take a taxi,
Air h6am-6pm; red g7) in Buda. road conditions in the capital, ring Finform avoid the sharks hovering around the sta-
The main Malv Customer Service Centre (Map The rpd Bridge bus station (Map pp78-9; (%317 1173). tions. At Dli train station, cross over to
pp80-1; % 235 3222; www.malev.hu; XIII Vci t 26; %329 1450; XIII Rbert Kroly krt; hticket office I Alkots utca and hail one there. At Keleti
h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; mM3 Ny- 6am-8pm; mM3 rpd hd), on the Pest side of Hitching train station, get into one of the legal taxis
ugati plyaudvar) is 100m northwest of Nyugati rpd Bridge, is the place to catch buses for The ride service Kenguru (Map p84; %266 5837, at the rank on VIII Kerepesi t, just south
train station. Malv also has ticket-issuing the Danube Bend and parts of the Northern 483 0105; www.kenguru.hu; VIII Kfarag utca 15; h9am- of the Eastern (Keleti) train station. Nyugati
desks at Terminal 2A (%296 7211; h5am-11pm) Uplands (eg Balassagyarmat, Szcsny, Sal- 6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) matches up drivers tr is a major intersection, so youll have no
and another one at Terminal 2B (%296 5767; gtarjn etc). The small Szna tr bus station and riders for a fee mostly to points problem finding a legitimate taxi there.
h6am-8.30pm). For contact telephone num- (Map pp80-1; %201 3688; I Szna tr 1/a; hticket office abroad. Sample destinations and approxi- You can buy tickets at the three inter-
bers and websites of other carriers with of- 6.30am-4.30pm; mM3 Moszkva tr) in Buda han- mate one-way fares include Amsterdam national train stations in Budapest, but the
fices in the capital, see p378. dles some traffic to and from the Pilis Hills (14,200Ft), London (15,700Ft), Munich queues are often long, passengers are in a
and towns northwest of the capital, with a (7500Ft), Paris (14,900Ft), Prague (8600Ft) hurry and sales staff are not the most patient
Boat half-dozen departures to Esztergom (from and Vienna (3000Ft). in the city. Its easier at the MV international
Hydrofoils to Bratislava and Vienna run by bay No 5) as an alternative to the rpd information and ticket centre (Map p84; %461
Mahart PassNave (Map p86; %484 4013; www.mahart Bridge bus station. Train 5500, 352 2800; www.mav.hu in Hungarian; VI Andrssy
passnave.hu; V Belgrd rakpart; h8am-6pm) arrive at For details of international bus services, Budapest has three main train stations. t 35; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri
and depart from the International Ferry Pier see p380. Most international trains arrive and depart Oct-Mar). For fares, check www.elvira.hu.
(Nemzetkzi hajlloms; Map p86; V Belgrd rakpart). from Keleti train station (Keleti train station; Map For more information on international
For more information, see p383. Car & Motorcycle pp80-1; %313 6835; VIII Kerepesi t 2-6; mM3 Keleti train travel, see p381.
From April to late October Mahart Pass All the international car-rental firms have plyaudvar). Trains to certain destinations in
Nave also runs excursion boats on the offices in Budapest, but dont expect many the east (eg Romania) leave from Nyugati GETTING AROUND
Danube from Budapest to Szentendre, Vc, bargains. An Opel Corsa from Avis (Map train station (Western train station; Map p84; %349 To/From the Airport
Visegrd and Esztergom, and between late p86; %318 4158; www.avis.hu in Hungarian; V Szervita 0115; VI Terz krt 55-57; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar), Budapests Ferihegy International Airport (%296
May and early September hydrofoils from tr 8; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat; m1/2/3 while Dli train station (Southern train station; Map 7000; www.bud.hu), 24km southeast of the city
Budapest to Visegrd, Nagymoros and Dek Ferenc tr), for example, costs 33/198 p83; %375 6293, 355 8657; I Krisztina krt 37; mM2 centre, has two modern terminals side by
Esztergom. Boats usually leave from the per day/week, plus 0.33 per kilometre and Dli plyaudvar) handles trains to some desti- side and within easy walking distance of
Legenda Boat Tours Office & pier (Map p86; %318 23 Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) and nations in the south (eg Osijek in Croatia one another, and an older one about 5km to
1223; mM1 Vrsmarty tr) off V Vigad tr on theft protection insurance. The same car and Sarajevo in Bosnia). These are not the west. For information on which airlines
the Pest side, and sometimes pick up and with unlimited kilometres and insurance hard-and-fast rules, so always make sure use which terminal, see p378. Terminal 2B
discharge passengers from the ferry stop at costs from 99/88 per day/weekend. The you check which station your train leaves has an OTP bank (h5.30-10pm) and an ATM,
I Batthyny tr (Map p83) on the Buda side, 25% FA (value-added tax) doesnt apply from when you buy a ticket. The hand- seven car-rental desks, a hotel booking of-
which is on the M2 metro line. to nonresidents paying with foreign cur- ful of secondary train stations are of little fice, a post office (h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) and
rency or credit card. importance to long-distance travellers. Oc- a left-luggage office (h24hr), which charges
Bus One of the cheapest and most reliable casionally, though, a through train will stop 350/1050/1400Ft for one/three/six hours,
All international buses and some but outfits for renting cars is Anselport (%362 at Kelenfldi train station (Map pp88-9; %203 1687; 2200/6500Ft per day/week.
not all domestic ones (especially to/from 6080, 06 20 945 0279; www.anselport.hu; XXII V utca 22; XI Etele tr 5-7; j19 or 49) in Buda. For 24-hour With much cheaper options for getting
north and north-central Hungary) arrive h9am-6pm; g14 or 114) in south Buda. Its information on international train services to/from Ferihegy, it would be senseless
at and depart from Npliget bus station (Map Suzuki Swift costs 19 to 43 per day, in- call %461 5500 in Budapest or %06 40 49 to take a taxi and risk a major rip-off. If
pp88-9; %219 8080; IX lli t 131; mM3 Npliget) in cluding unlimited mileage and insurance, 49 49 nationwide. you want to take a taxi, do not hail one
BUDAPEST 124 B U D A P E S T B u d a p e s t M e t r o , R a i l & T r a m R o u t e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B U D A P E S T G e t t i n g A r o u n d 125

BUDAPEST
BUDAPEST METRO, RAIL & TRAM ROUTES 0
0
2 km
1 mile
from outside. Instead call one of the rec- closest to the Castle District is I Batthyny
To Szentendre To Vc 14 cont To Ft To Hungaroring;
ommended companies (p127) with a mo- tr (Map p83), and V Petfi tr is not far
Kposztsmegyer Miskolc bile phone or from a phone box at arrivals from the pier just west of Vrsmarty tr
Rkospalota-
(dispatchers understand English) and ex- (Map p86), a convenient place to pick up

t
14
Kertvros

ti
F
Rmaifrd HV pect to pay about 5000Ft. Several taxi com- the boat on the Pest side. Transporting a

gi
R
Rmai-
buda frd
jpest
12 12 panies have a flat, discounted fare to/from bicycle costs 500Ft.

t
Railway
HV Aquincum
12, 14
Ferihegy. Tele 5 (%355 5555) charges 3490Ft For information on river cruises, see

Vci
Rkospalota- Commuter Train
To Esztergom HV
Aquincum jpest-
jpest
Metro 1 (Yellow)
between the airport and Pest, and 3990Ft p102.
Kzpont d t between Ferihegy and Buda. Its taxis are
Bc

Aquincum fels rp

Metro 2 (Red)
si

jpest- jpest Metro 3 (Blue) just down the road waiting for your call. Car & Motorcycle
t

Vroskapu Sz
en
Kaszsdl HV 12
tm 12 12 Tram with route number
The Airport Minibus Service (% 296 8555; Though its not so bad at night, driving in
r

ih and terminus
Rive

Istvntelek l
Filatorigt HV buda Angyalfld
yi
t minibus@bud.hu) ferries passengers in eight- Budapest during the day can be a night-
ube

1 Island
buda Gyngysi u
Istvntelek
seater vans from all three of the airports mare: ongoing road works reduce traffic
Dan

17 1 terminals directly to their hotel, hostel or to a snails pace; there are more serious ac-
14

HV rpd hd residence (one way/return 2300/3900Ft). cidents than fender-benders; and parking
eu

62, 67
Tickets are available at a clearly marked desk spots are difficult to find. The public trans-
Bk

Forgch u 69

u
a
in the arrival halls. You need to book your port system is good and cheap. Use it.
17

ot
al
jpalota

rp
Angyalfld
HV Timr u To Gdll
journey to the airport 24 hours in advance, Parking costs 120Ft to 400Ft on the street,

Ny
69
rpd hd
7,
but remember that, with up to seven pick- generally between 8am and 6pm Monday
,6

rpd hd Rkosszentmihly
62

Szpvlgyi t HV Margaret
Island Dzsa Rkosrendez
ups en route, this can be a nerve-wracking to Friday and 8am and noon Saturday.
Gyrgy t
he
lu 1
r
i
t way to go if youre running late. There are 24-hour covered car parks charg-
Le

Mexiki t 62 m The cheapest way but probably the most ing up to 500/5000Ft per hour/day at V Vci
Vzivros Szchenyi 69 Na Cs
14 frd gy
time-consuming to get into the city centre utca 25 (below the Millennium Center;
H

Margit hd Lehel La
un

jo
67

14 sk
g

tr
17
HV Hsk
ir is to take the airport bus (look for the stop Map p86); V Szervita tr 8 (Map p86) and
ria

tere ly
Nyugati
kr

Vrosliget
18, 56 it pu t
marked BKV Plusz Reptr Busz on the foot- at V Aranykz utca 4-6 (Map p86) in
t

a r g Batthyny 2, 2A Nyugati Zugl ja

cont M rt Bajza u To Gdll
tr pu
t

Moszkva k Liptvros Zugl t path between terminals 2A and 2B), which the Inner Town, and at VII Nyr utca 20
y

Kodly krnd i
4,

Szna HV
l

tr Arany s rs vezr Rkosfalva

k

ra
1
6

Jnos u Vrsmarty u HV
tr 19 a terminates at the Kbnya-Kispest metro (Map p84).
Th

4, 6, g 62 tere
Batthyny Kossuth Oktogon Fo HV Nagyicce
56, 59 Stadionok
61 Vr
tr Lajos tr
Opera
Erzsbetvros 67
Keleti pu
Pillang u
rs vezr 13
HV
station. From there take the M3 metro into Illegally parked cars are not normally

F u

Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t Kerepesi t tere the city centre. The total cost is 320Ft. towed in Budapest these days but booted.
2, 2

Dli pu Dek F tr Baross 23, Stadionok Racetra

ck
13

Dli pu Blaha tr 24 If you are trying to trace a vehicle you be-

A

47, 49
19

Vrsmarty Lujza tr Kerepesi

Alkots

Buda
Bicycle
18

Castle tr Astoria 28, 37,

37A
temet
Kbnya lieve has been towed, ring %383 0700 or
4, 6

fels Rkos
Ferenciek
Jzsefvros 1 37, 37A Jszbernyi t More and more cyclists are seen on the 383 0770. To have a boot removed, which
u

tere 4 9
,2

,
47 Klvin Kb streets and avenues of Budapest these is going to cost you 15,000Ft, ring the tel-
13
61

Ferenc krt Kbnya

tr ny 28 Kbnya
M 37

Citadella Jzsefvros ai To Pcel

23
days, taking advantage of the growing net- ephone number on the sticker placed on the
28

als
ag , 3

t
2,

,
l 7A
24

Klinikk
d arsi t

2A

di

Vil 61 23, 30
work of bike paths. The main roads in the windscreen or %313 0810.
,19

ln 2A
yi Nagyvrad 13 28, 37,
18

t 61 HV Borros tr Npliget
6
tr 37A city might be a bit too busy and nerve- Drink-driving is taken very seriously in
krt

41 6 4, ef u 24
Bu

Npliget
To Lake Balaton; 49
iJ
z
s New Municipal wracking to allow enjoyable cycling, but the Hungary; see p372.
23

Gyr; Vienna 9, y l G Cemetery

1 4 n n li
Iri y
side streets are fine and there are some areas
,3

t lm 3 t Ecseri t mr (j kztemet)
Lgymnyosi
0

la Knyves K 2 i

Ba
rt
kB
Kelenfld
hd HV
2, 24 Ferencvros
Pttys u
t
Kbnya-
To Ferihegy (City Park, Margaret Island etc) where Public Transport
Hatr t International
Kelenfldi pu Kispest cycling is positively ideal. For ideas on Budapest has an ageing but safe, efficient
1, 47

HV Kzvghd Airport
ri t

13

19, 49 52 50 Ferih
Ferencvros egyi
repltrrevez where to cycle and information on where and inexpensive public transport system
18, 4
Fehrv

52 t 42 t et
HV Bethy u r

to rent bikes, see p98. that will never have you waiting more than
Szabadkikt t

t l
Ha Ad 4 li
30

18 HV Kn u
y 2
En
t
Pestszentlrinc
five or 10 minutes for any conveyance.
, 5 2
dr
e
t 50
Boat There are five types of vehicle in general
r

13 Kispest
Between May and mid-September pas- use: metro trains on three city lines, green
Rive
41, 47

HV Timt u Kispest
senger ferries run by BKV (Budapest Transport HV trains on four suburban lines, blue
ube

HV Szabadkikt
Na

30 50 cont
gy

41 cont 13 42
Company; %369 1359; www.bkv.hu) depart from buses, yellow trams and red trolleybuses.
Dan

,5
k

41 2
r
si

To Ferihegy IX Borros tr (Map pp889) beside Petfi All are run by BKV (Budapest Transport Company;
30

Budafok-
t
,5

Albertfalva International
2

HV Pesterzsbet
Airport Bridge between six and eight times daily %342 2335, 06 80 406 688; www.bkv.hu). Anyone
47

and head for III Rmaifrd and Csil- planning to travel extensively by public
Sor

St Imre tr HV
laghegy in buda, a two-hour trip with transport in Budapest should invest in the
oks

47 Csepel
ri

Karcsony S u HV 10 stops along the way. Tickets (adult/child invaluable Budapesti Kzlekedsi Hlzata
t

30
30

600/300Ft from end to end or between Trkpe (Budapest Transport Network

,5
,5

HV Torontl u
2
2

To Rckeve 30, 52 To Kecskemt 500/250Ft and 200/150Ft for intermediate Map; 380Ft) available at most metro ticket
To rd To rd HV Terminus
stops) are sold on board. The ferry stop booths.
BUDAPEST 126 B U D A P E S T G e t t i n g A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D B U D A P E S T S t a t u e Pa r k 127

BUDAPEST
Daytime public transport in Budapest midnight to midnight, so buy them in ad- Nos 4 & 6 Extremely useful trams that start at XI Fe- than others, but there are price ceilings
runs from about 4.30am to between 9pm vance and specify the date(s) you want. hrvri t and XI Mricz Zsigmond krtr in south Buda, under which taxi companies are free to
and 11.30pm, depending on the line. From Travelling black (ie without a valid respectively, and follow the entire length of the Big Ring manoeuvre. From 6am to 10pm the high-
11.30pm to 4am a network of some 30 night ticket or pass) is risky; with increased sur- road in Pest before terminating at II Moszkva tr in Buda. est flag-fall fee that can be legally charged is
buses kicks in, running every 10 to 60 min- veillance (especially in the metro), theres No 18 Runs from southern Buda along XI Bartk Bla t 300Ft, the per-kilometre charge 240Ft and
utes, again depending on the line. an excellent chance youll get caught. (NB: through the Tabn to II Moszkva tr. the waiting fee 60Ft. From 10pm to 6am the
Tickets are always checked by a conduc- No 19 Covers part of the same route as No 18, but then equivalent fees are 420/330/80Ft.
FARES & TRAVEL PASSES tor on the HV.) The on-the-spot fine is runs along the Buda side of the Danube to I Batthyny tr. Budapest residents local or foreign
To ride the metro, trams, trolleybuses, buses 2500Ft, which rises to 7000Ft if you pay Nos 47 & 49 Link V Dek Ferenc tr in Pest with points in rarely flag down taxis on the street. They
and the HV (as far as the city limits, which at the BKV office (Map p84; %461 6800; VII Akcfa southern Buda via the Little Ring road. almost always ring for them, and fares
is the Bksmegyer stop to the north) you utca 22; h6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1.45pm Sat; mM2 No 61 Connects XI Mricz Zsigmond krtr with Dli train are actually cheaper if you book over the
must have a valid ticket, which you can buy Blaha Lujza tr) up to 30 days later and 14,000Ft station and II Moszkva tr in Buda. phone. Make sure you know the number
at kiosks, newsstands or metro entrances. after that. of the landline phone youre calling from,
Children up to the age of six travel free Some buses (always shown with a blue line as thats how they establish your address
when accompanied by an adult. Bicycles METRO & HV on a Budapest map) you might find useful: (though you can, of course, call from a mo-
can only be transported on the HV. Budapest has three underground metro Black No 4 Runs from northern Pest via VI Hsk tere to bile phone, too).
The basic fare for all forms of trans- lines that converge (only) at Dek Ferenc V Dek Ferenc tr (the red No 4 follows the same route but Following are the telephone numbers of
port is 185Ft (1665/3145Ft for a block of tr: the little yellow (or Millennium) line crosses over Chain Bridge into central Buda). reputable taxi firms:
10/20 tickets), allowing you to travel as far designated M1 that runs from Vrsmarty No 7 Cuts across a large swathe of central Pest from Buda %233 3333
as you like on the same metro, bus, trol- tr to Mexikoi t in Pest; the red M2 line XIV Bosnyk tr and down VII Rkczi t before crossing City %211 1111
leybus or tram line without changing. A from Dli train station in Buda to rs Elizabeth Bridge to Kelenfld train station in southern Buda. F %222 2222
ticket allowing unlimited stations with one vezr tere in Pest; and the blue M3 line No 86 Runs the length of Buda from XI Kosztolnyi Dezs Rdi %377 7777
change within 1 hours costs 320Ft. from jpest-Kzpont to Kbnya-Kispest tr to buda. Tele 5%355 5555
On the metro exclusively, the base fare in Pest. A possible source of confusion on No 105 Goes from V Dek Ferenc tr to XII Apor Vilmos tr
drops to 130Ft if you are just going three the M1 is that one station is called Vrs- in central Buda.
stops within 30 minutes. For 200Ft you can
travel five stops and transfer at Dek Fer-
marty tr and another, five stops later, is
Vrsmarty utca. The HV suburban
Night bus 906 Follows tram 6s route along the Big
Ring road.
AROUND BUDAPEST
enc tr to another metro line within one train line, which runs on four lines (north Night bus 907 Traces an enormously long route from rs Lets be honest: an awful lot in Hungary is
hour. Unlimited stations travelled with one from Batthyny tr in Buda via buda and vezr tere M2 metro stop in Pest to Kelenfld train station around Budapest, and many of the towns
change within one hour costs 300Ft. Aquincum to Szentendre, south to both in Buda. and cities in the Danube Bend, Transdanu-
You must always travel in one continu- Csepel and Rckeve and east to Gdll), bia, Northern Uplands and even the Great
ous direction on any ticket; return trips are is almost like an additional above-ground Taxi Plain could be relatively easy day trips
not allowed. Tickets have to be validated in metro line. Taxis in Budapest are still not expensive from the capital. You can be in Szenten-
machines at metro entrances and aboard compared with other European countries, dre (19km) in half an hour, for example,
other vehicles inspectors will fine you for BUS, TRAM & TROLLEYBUS but with such an excellent public transport and Gyngys, the gateway to the bucolic
not validating your ticket. An extensive system of trams, trolleybuses network available, you dont really have Mtra Hills, is only 80km to the east. Here
Life will most likely be much simpler if and buses serve greater Budapest. On cer- to use them very often. Weve heard from are several easy day or even half-day trips
you buy a travel pass. Passes are valid on all tain bus lines the same number bus may many readers who were grossly overcharged from the capital.
trams, buses, trolleybuses, HV (within the have a black or a red number. In such and even threatened by taxi drivers in
city limits) and metro lines, and you dont cases, the red-numbered one is an express, Budapest, so taking a taxi in this city should STATUE PARK
have to worry about validating your ticket which makes limited stops and is, of course, be approached with caution. However, the A truly mind-blowing excursion is a visit to
each time you get on. The most central faster. reputable firms weve listed have caught on Statue Park (Szoborpark; Map p77;%424 7500; www
places to buy them are ticket offices at the Buses and trams are much of a much- to the concept of customer service and take .szoborpark.hu; cnr XXII Szabadkai t & Balatoni t; adult/
Dek Ferenc tr metro station (Map p86), ness, though the latter are often faster and complaints very seriously nowadays. child 600/400Ft; h10am-dusk), 10km southwest
the Nyugati plyaudvar metro station (Map generally more pleasant for sightseeing. Avoid taxis with no name on the door and of the city centre. Its home to more than
p84) and the Dli plyaudvar metro station Trolleybuses go along cross streets in cen- only a removable taxi light box on the roof; 40 busts, statues and plaques of Lenin, Marx,
(Map pp801), all of which are open from tral Pest and are of little use to most visitors, these are just guys with cars and the ones Bla Kun and heroic workers that have
6am to 8pm daily. with the sole exception of the ones to City most likely to rip you off. Never get into a ended up on rubbish heaps in other former
A one-day pass is poor value at 1150Ft, but and Npliget Parks. taxi that does not have a yellow licence plate socialist countries, but get an airing here to
the three-day pass (touristajegy, or tourist Following are the most important tram and an identification badge displayed on the remind everyone how tawdry and dishonest
ticket) for 2500Ft and seven-day pass (hetij- lines (always marked with red lines on a dashboard (as required by law), the logo of the ancien rgime was. Ogle at the social-
egy, or one week) for 3400Ft are worthwhile Budapest map, while a broken red line sig- one of the reputable taxi firms on the side ist realism and try to imagine that at least
for most people. Youll need a photo for the nifies a trolleybus). doors and a table of fares clearly visible. four of these monstrous monuments were
fortnightly/monthly passes (4500/6900Ft). Nos 2 & 2/a Scenic trams that travel along the Pest side Not all taxi meters are set at the same erected as recently as the late 1980s; a few
All but the monthly passes are valid from of the Danube as far as V Jszai Mari tr. rates, and some are much more expensive of them, including the Bla Kun memorial
BUDAPEST 128 A R O U N D B U D A P E S T S z z h a l o m b a t t a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D B U D A P E S T G d l l 129

BUDAPEST
of our hero in a crowd by fence-sitting traces the history of the settlement from of hundred metres south of the mansion, The last HV train back to Budapest leaves
sculptor Imre Varga (p74), were still in prehistoric times till today. has exhibits focusing on the Danube, with Rckeve at 10.30pm.
place when one of us moved to Budapest an emphasis on water mills of various types,
in early 1992. The museum shop sells fabu- Getting There & Away along with a lot of old photographs. GDLL
lously kitsch communist memorabilia Over two dozen trains leaving Budapests %28 / pop 32,400
statues, pins, CDs of revolutionary songs etc. Dli and Kelenfld train stations for Pcs SERBIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH Just 27km northeast of the Inner Town
To reach this socialist Disneyland, take every day stop at Szzhalombatta (248Ft, From Kossuth Lajos utca you cant miss and easily accessible on the HV, Gdll
tram 19 from I Batthyny tr in Buda, tram 40 minutes, 28km, every 20 minutes); the the blue clock tower of the Serbian Ortho- (pronounced roughly good-duh-ler) is
49 from V Dek Ferenc tr in Pest or red- last train returns at just before 10.30pm. A dox Church (Grg-keleti szerb templom; Viola utca 1; an easy day trip from the capital. The main
numbered bus 7 from V Ferenciek tere in bus links the train station at Szzhalombatta h10am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sat, 2-5pm Sun) to the draw here is the Royal Mansion, which ri-
Pest to the terminus at XI Etele tr. From with the park, but its rather infrequent the southeast. The late Gothic church was orig- valled Esterhzy Palace at Fertd in West-
there catch a yellow Voln bus from stand last leaves for the station at around 4pm. inally built in 1487 by Serbs who fled their ern Transdanubia (p169) in splendour and
No 7 to Disd/rd (133Ft, 15 minutes, 8km, Buses bound for Szzhalombatta (363Ft, town of Keve ahead of the invading Turks, size when it was completed in the 1760s,
every 15 to 20 minutes); youll want the fifth 45 minutes, 28km, half-hourly) leave and many street signs in this area are in and is the largest baroque manor house in
stop. frequently throughout the day from the Serbian. It was enlarged in the following Hungary. But the town itself, full of lovely
A direct bus (adult/child return 1950/ Kelenfld train station at XI Etele tr in century. The free-standing clock tower was baroque buildings and monuments and
1350Ft) departs from in front of the Le Me- southern Buda. added in 1758. home to the seminal Gdll Artists Col-
ridien Budapest Hotel on Dek Ferenc tr The walls and ceiling of the church in- ony (190120), is worth the trip in itself.
at 11am year-round, with an extra depar- RCKEVE terior are covered with colourful frescoes Tourinform (%415 402; www.godollotourinform
ture at 3pm from March to October, and at %24 / pop 9250 painted by a Serbian master from Albania .hu; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun
10am and 4pm as well in July and August. The lures of this attractive town on the in the mid-18th century. The walls depict Nov-Mar) has an office just inside the entrance
southeastern end of Csepel Island, the long scenes from the Old and New Testaments to the Royal Mansion.
SZZHALOMBATTA island in the Danube south of Budapest, are and a panoply of saints; they were meant
%23 / pop 17,500 its pretty riverside park and strand, a Gothic to teach the Bible to illiterate parishioners. Sights
Some 28km southwest of Budapest in Serbian Orthodox church (rc is the old The first section of the nave is reserved for The Royal Mansion (Kirlyi Kastly; %410 124;
the unattractive town of Szzhalombatta, Hungarian word for Serb) and the former women; the part beyond the separating wall www.kiralyikastely.hu; Szabadsg tr 1; adult/child/family
site of a huge heat and power plant, is Savoy Mansion, now a lovely hotel. Tourin- is for men. Only the priest and his servers 1400/700/2800Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-
Archaeological Park (Rgszeti Park; %350 537; http:// form (%429 747; www.tourinform.rackeve.hu; Kossuth enter the sanctuary beyond the iconostasis, 5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), sometimes called the
matrica.battanet.hu; Istvn kirly t 4; park adult/child/ Lajos utca 51; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat mid-Junmid-Sep, the richly carved and gilded gate festooned Grassalkovich Mansion after its commis-
family 600/300/1600Ft, park & museum 805/415/2070Ft; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Sepmid-Jun) is in the Karly with icons. sioner, Antal Grassalkovich (16941771),
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct), the only open- cs Cultural Centre, about 1km south of count and confidante of Empress Maria
air prehistoric museum in Hungary. The the train station. Eating Theresa, was designed by Antal Mayer-
six-hectare park sits in the middle of Savoyai Kastly (%424 189; Kossuth Lajos utca 95; hoffer in 1741. After the formation of the
Iron Age tumuli Szzhalombatta means Sights soups 350-450Ft, starters 600-2200Ft, mains 1200-3500Ft; Dual Monarchy, the mansion (or palace)
100 Mounds and is still undergoing ex- SAVOY MANSION hnoon-11pm) This cellar restaurant at the was enlarged as a summer retreat for Em-
cavation and expansion. What can be seen From the HV station in Rckeve, walk Savoy Mansion is one of the better eateries peror Franz Joseph, and soon became the
at present are reconstructed Bronze and south along Kossuth Lajos utca to the Savoy in Rckeve. Dining here is a good way to favoured residence of his consort, the much
Iron Age settlements, plus replicas of pot- Mansion (Savoyai-kastly; %485 253; Kossuth Lajos get a look at the mansions interior without beloved Habsburg empress and Hungarian
tery, cooking utensils, musical instruments utca 95), now a 30-room hotel facing the actually staying there. queen, Elizabeth (183798), affectionately
and clothing. The highlight of the park is Rckeve-Danube River branch. The domed Cadran (%485 470; Hsk tere 1; pizza 520-980Ft; known as Sissi. Between WWI and WWII
a 2700-year-old oak-timber burial mound manse with two wings was finished in 1722 h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-10pm Sun) A popular the regent, Admiral Mikls Horthy, also
that houses an incredibly detailed 5.5 sq m in the baroque style for Prince Eugene of pizzeria and pub in the centre of town and used it as a summer residence, but after
burial chamber rebuilt from archaeological Savoy, who drove out the last of the Turk- facing the rpd Bridge, Cadran is recom- the communists came to power part of the
finds and floor plans. An 18-minute film (in ish occupiers from Hungary at the Battle of mended for a lunch stop before or after mansion was used as a Soviet barracks, as
English, Hungarian and German) briefly Zenta in 1697, by an Austrian architect who visiting the Serbian church. Theres outside an old peoples home and as temporary
delves into the history of the Bronze and would later go on to design Schnbrunn seating in a back courtyard. housing. The rest was left to decay.
Iron Age in Central Europe, before moving Palace in Vienna. The mansion was com- Partial renovation of the mansion began
onto the burial process and a step-by-step pletely renovated and turned into a pricey Getting There & Away in 1994, and today some 26 rooms are open
explanation of the reconstruction of the hotel and conference centre in 1982. Con- The easiest way to reach Rckeve is on to the public as the Palace Museum on the
burial crypt. certs are held here in July and August. the HV suburban train (520Ft, 70 min- ground and 1st floors. The rooms have been
The Matrica Museum (%354 591; www.matrica utes, 40km, half-hourly), departing from restored (some would say with too much
.battanet.hu; Gesztenys t 1-3; adult/child/family RPD MUSEUM the Vghd HV terminus in district IX enthusiasm) to when the imperial couple
415/210/1035Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am- This small museum (%485 364; Kossuth Lajos utca on the Pest side. You can get to that train were in residence, and on the 1st floor Franz
4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar), part of 34; adult/child 400/200Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun mid- station from the Inner Town on tram 2 Josephs suites, done up in manly greys
the Archaeological Park but closer to town, MarOct,10am-4pm Mon-Fri Novmid-Mar), a couple or from Keleti train station on tram 24. and golds, and Sissis lavender-coloured
 Lonely Planet Publications
BUDAPEST 130 AB UR OD UA NP EDS BT U DA PREuSnTn i ng SGubdhelal d www.lonelyplanet.com

private apartments are impressive, if not as main courses is conveniently attached to the
evocative of the past as the rooms at the Es- Szabadsg tr HV station.
terhzy Palace. Check out the Decorative Hall, Mei Shi Lin (%412 658; Kossuth Lajos utca 33; rice
all gold tracery and chandeliers, where cham- & noodle dishes 450-1680Ft, mains 950-2150Ft; h11am-
ber-music concerts are held throughout the 10pm Sun-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat) This pleasant
year but especially in late June and early eatery, to the northwest of the mansion,
July during the Palace Concerts Chamber Music serves surprisingly good Chinese food.
Festival; the Queens Salon, with a Romantic- Kastlykert (%527 020; Szabadsg tr 4; starters
style oil painting of Sissi patriotically repair- 480-1990Ft, mains 1000-1840Ft; hnoon-11pm) The
ing the coronation robe of King Stephen Castle Garden, situated in a lovely old
with needle and thread; and the Study An- baroque house opposite the mansion (and
nexe, with a restored ceiling painting and still apparently on its grounds) is an excel-
an 18th-century tapestry of the huntress lent and much more upmarket choice for
Diana. an evening meal.
A number of other recently opened
rooms and buildings can be visited on a Getting There & Away
guided tour only at extra cost, including HV trains from rs vezr tere at the ter-
the baroque Palace Theatre (adult/child 960/550Ft minus of the M2 metro link Budapest with
or 2500Ft with museum) in the southern wing; the Gdll (326Ft, 40 minutes, 27km, half-
Royal Hill Pavilion (admission 2750Ft with theatre & hourly) throughout the day. Make sure you
museum) in the park built in the 1760s; and get off at the Szabadsg tr stop, which is the
the Royal Baths (adult/child 1200/700Ft with theatre & third from the last stop. The last train leaves
pavilion, 2600/1250Ft with museum, theatre & pavilion). this stop for Budapest just before 10.45pm.
In addition, buses from Stadionok bus
Eating station in Budapest also serve Gdll
Tourinform at the palace has sample menus (302Ft, 23km, 40 minutes, half-hourly). The
from restaurants around town and also dis- last bus back is just after 7.15pm Monday
tributes discount vouchers. to Friday (shortly after 8pm on Saturday
Pizza Palazzo (%420 688; Szabadsg tr 2; pizza & and Sunday). The bus station is due east of
pasta 750-1250Ft, mains 950-1590Ft; h11am-11pm) This the Szabadsg tr HV station next to the
popular pizzeria with some more substantial colossal cultural centre.

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