Sarajevo PDF

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SARAJEVO
Autumn 2009
Olympic City
The host of the 84 Winter
Games has reopened for
business
MESS Festival
Sarajevos 49th International
Theatre Festival
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-

written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
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Contents 3
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving in Sarajevo 5
The Basics 6
Food, history, language and more
Culture & Events 11

Sarajevos upcoming festivals
Sports 15
Where to stay 16
Luxurious suites to backpacker haunts
Dining & Nightlife 21

Where to eat
Vegetarians beware
Cafs 24
The citys social centres
Nightlife 25
Be prepared to see sunrise
Pigeon Square in Baarija
Sightseeing
What to see 28
Mosques, churches and synagogues, oh my!
Around Sarajevo 29
Visokos mysterious pyramids
Getting around 33
Local, domestic and international transport
Mail, phones & internet 39

Keep in touch
Shopping 40
The best of what and where to buy
Directory 42
Maps & Index

Street index 44
City centre map 45
City map 46
Country map 48
Twisting Avaz Tower
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2009

4 foreWord
The heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina is the capital Sarajevo,
once a heart-broken, torn and demolished city it has risen Europe In Your Pocket
above its recent history to once more welcome visitors with
its centuries-old tradition of hospitality. This vibrant city can
penetrate as deep into the travellers soul as it does for
residents.
With a population of about 400,000 Sarajevo makes full use of

its abundance of bustling cafs, local eateries and handicraft
shops. One of its unique features, something that has led to
it being termed the Jerusalem of Europe, is its religiously
diverse citizenry. Indeed, few places on earth feature an
Orthodox and a Catholic church, a mosque and a synagogue
within walking distance of each other. A city with characteristics
of the East (enriched by the Byzantine and Ottoman empires)
and the West (the Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian
empires), Sarajevo holds a central charm that visitors feel,
encompassing the best of both worlds.
The towering tree- and house-studded hilltops that connect to

the Dinaric Alps surround the city in its valley setting, while the
Miljacka River running through the centre provides a secluded,
private and magical atmosphere. Just a few miles out of
Sarajevo, the regions largest and most popular mountains
are crowded during the winter season with skiers and hikers
coming from all over the country and abroad.
The city itself encompasses four quarters: the old town

(Baarija), the new town, the centre and New Sarajevo.
Each district provides every traveller endless opportunities Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special
for relaxation, vigorous sightseeing and, above all, the unique In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with
experiences gained as you share this city with Sarajevos
locals. the 1150th aniversary of the city of Velikiy
Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement
in our next Russian guides and online at russia.
Cover story inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now get
your hands on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when
Sarajevo has always been known for visiting the Bosnian capital, and the same team
its fresh clean drinking water, and in - who have successfully pocketed Slovenia and
previous centuries numerous fountains Bosnia - are now turning their attention to Italy,
and Sebiljs - larger and more ornate
kiosk-shaped fountains - could be found
and to Venice.
all over the city. Today, roughly one-tenth We welcome enquiries from anyone who would
of the fountains remain, while the only like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either
Sebilj still standing is the one pictured by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send
here, which is located in Baarija. us an email at publisher@inyourpocket.com.
Editorial Copyright notice

Editor Yuri Barron Text and photos copyright PIYP
Writers Yuri Barron, Ian Rohr, s.r.o. 2000-2006. Maps copyright
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
Christian Jennings of this publication may be reproduced
Researcher Mersiha Drinjakovic, in any form, except brief extracts for
Sarajevo In Your Pocket Emina Becic, Amra Usanovic the purpose of review, without written
ESTV d.o.o. Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite permission from the publisher and
Bosnia and Herzegovina Consulting Craig Turp copyright owner. The brand name In Your
sarajevo@inyourpocket.com Photos Dejan Vekic and John Roberts Pocket is used under license from UAB
bihac@inyourpocket.com In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Maps Emir Haracic Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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Directors Igor Blaha dipl.ecc The editorial content of In Your Pocket
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Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

arriving in saraJevo 5
By bus
Both of Sarajevos bus stations are busy places, especially
the main one near the train station which serves the
Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and most international
destinations. If you arrive here you can get a tram (number
1) or bus into the centre or grab a cab for around 5-6 KM.
There is also an ATM here and a few cafs and bars nearby
if the journey has been long, gruelling or both.If you are
coming from or heading to a destination in the Republika
Srpska, Serbia proper or Montenegro you will arrive at or
depart from Lukavica (aka Istochno Sarajevo) bus station in
east Sarajevo. This station is on the fringes of the city and
you can either get a taxi into town (about 25 KM) or a bus
from the local terminal which is about a 200 metre walk from
the station. Cash can be obtained from the machine at the
nearby TOM shopping centre. Signage at this bus station is
predominately in Cyrillic script. If you are getting a taxi to the
bus station make sure your driver knows which one you want
- you can do this by explaining your destination to him.
By car Jahornina in autumn

Sarajevos roads are much improved from a few years ago
but this in turn may have contributed to the ever-increasing By train
volume of traffic. Coming in and out of town is fairly
straightforward with good signposting to the Centar but once Bosnias rail infrastructure was badly damaged during the
in the heart of town non-local drivers need to contend with war and has yet to return to pre-war levels of operation. Most
narrow streets, lots of one-way and No Entry roads and the international visitors arriving by train will be coming from
local drivers, who tend to be impatient behind the wheel and Zagreb or Budapest on the daily trains which arrive at 18:30
dont mind using their horn to give a blast to anyone too slow and 6:25 respectively. There is also a train to and from Ploe
to respond to a changed traffic signal. on the southern coast of Croatia which is worth looking into
Those used to congested inner-cities wont find it too much as the journey, via Mostar, is very scenic. Sarajevos train
of a problem but the more hesitant may be best to leave the station is right near the bus station and you can get into the
car parked at or near their hotel and use public transport, heart of town via a bus, tram or 5-6 KM taxi ride. There is
taxis and foot-power for getting around, all of which are no ATM at the station but there is one about 200 metres
less stressful and will give you the opportunity to see and away at the bus station - just turn right when you come out
experience a lot more than if you are gripping the wheel of the station, go around and past the main post office and
and gritting your teeth. This also gets rid of the problem of the bus station is straight ahead.
finding somewhere to park in the car-crowded centre. Drivers
are required by law to have their headlights on at all times.
This is mainly for safety reasons and when you enter one of
Bosnias long tunnels youll be glad it is so. Another safety Tourist information
factor to bear in mind is that roads can be hazardous during
the winters, with ice, fog and snow providing a challenge Sarajevo City
to all but the most experienced of mountainous terrain in Administration Hamdije
winter drivers. K r e ev l j a kov i a 3 , t e l .
(+387) 33 20 83 40, fax
(+387) 33 20 83 41, grad@
By plane sarajevo.ba, www.sarajevo.
ba, www.sarajevo-tourism.
Sarajevo airport (International Airport Butmir) is small and com. This agency provides
rarely too busy, helping it avoid the long baggage, immigration travel-related information on
and customs queues that plague many of Europes other Sarajevo and its vicinity to domestic and foreign visitors,
capital city airports. It has the facilities found at most airports as well as to domestic tour operators and their partner
including tourist information and currency exchange, a bar tourist agencies from abroad.
and cafe, an ATM and a souvenir shop. There is no regular Tourism Community of FB &H Branilaca
scheduled bus service to the centre so your best bets are Sarajeva, no 21/II, tel. (+387) 33 252 928, fax
to either prearrange a transfer through your hotel or grab a (+387) 33 252 901, media@tourism.ba, www.
cab - there are usually quite a few lined up outside and the bhtourism.ba.
12km trip will cost about 20-25 KM (10-12.50). As with all Tourist Community for the Sarajevo District
international airports, its not unheard of for taxi drivers to Branilaca Sarajeva 21/IV, tel. (+387) 33 25 02
overcharge for a ride into town, especially if youre a foreigner 00/(+387) 33 25 02 02, fax (+387) 33 25 02
- make sure the metre is switched on before you depart. 04, tour.off@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevo-tourism.
com. Info point (airport): Open: 10-17h, Monday-
Thursday, 12-17h Friday-Sunday QOpen , Mon, Tue,
www.inyourpocket.com Wed, Thu 10:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

6 BasiCs
Learn about the facts and figures, the habits and attitudes
of people and a little bit of Bosanski for a full filling time in Price Level
Sarajevo.
McDonalds Big Mac
(There is no McDonalds restaurant in Sarajevo or BiH
Disabled travellers for that matter)
Bigger shopping centeres in the city offer disabled facilities, Loaf of white bread 0.90 KM
including toilets and so does the main post office in the centre Snickers bar 1 KM
of the city. Pedestrian crossings in the city have dropped Litre of vodka 15 KM
kerbs, and large intersections in the centre are equipped Bottle of local beer (1/2 liter) 1.15 KM
with sound signalling systems. Most restaurants and cafs Pack of Marlboros 3.30 KM
are inaccessible to disabled patrons, and hardly any offer Public transport ticket 1.80 KM
toilet facilities for the disabled. Roll of Kodak 200 speed film,
24 exposures 2 KM
Money & Exchange
The Bosnian currency is the Convertible Mark (KM), which
was introduced in 1998. Coins come in the following Security
denominations: 0.05, 0.10 0.20, 0.50, 1, 2 and 5. Banknotes Touch wood, Sarajevo is a safe and secure city, a million
come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200. Since miles away from its wartime past. Bosnian people are
11 October 2001 the Convertible Mark has been tied to the welcoming, friendly to and tolerant of foreigners - theyve
Euro at a rate of 0.51129 = KM1 had thousands of them in their country for fifteen years - and
its an engagingly safe place. Taxis are cheap, women walk
You can change money at banks or any post office. The home, the city-centre and environs are friendly and largely
differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in secure. Outside of some of its more deprived and isolated
Sarajevo will change travellers cheques, American Express, suburbs and quarters, Sarajevo is one of the safest cities in
Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money Europe. Obviously, normal, basic safety precautions should
transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office be observed, but, for instance, any fights in or outside pubs,
and most banks. bars and clubs are extremely rare.
The occasional presence on the streets of Roma exploiting
You can find ATMs of the major banks present in the country their children as begging accoutrements is an unavoidable
all over the city. Cards widely acceptable in Sarajevo are let-down common everywhere in the region - except in Kosovo
VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Maestro, Diners Club where they are still largely too afraid of violence to leave their
and American Express. You can buy almost all goods and settlements. Best not to give them money - it goes not to
services with credit cards. You will need cash for green their well-being but their parents grubby pockets. And on the
markets, some small shops and bars, kiosks, parking fees other end of the spectrum, the vibrant organized crime scene
and taxis. in Bosnia means that some real organized gang violence is
mostly confined to the occasional shooting and car-bombing
in the cities suburbs.
Basic data
Countrys population: 4,590,310 (July 2008) (48 % Smoking
Bosniaks, 37.1 % Serbs, 14.3 % Croats and 0.6 % others) In terms of smoking, it is safest, as with bars, to assume
Sarajevos population: 402,000 that everywhere you will visit in Sarajevo is a smoking zone,
be it bars, restaurants, cafes, clubs or hotels, except where
Surface: Total 51,209km2 very strictly classified otherwise. This reviewer, for instance,
Longest river: Drina, 346km once watched all three female staff at a health-club smoke
Highest mountain peak: Maglic, 2386m while on-duty. A very high percentage of Bosnians smoke,
Land boundaries: 1,459 both men and women, and a great deal of teenagers too.
Despite vague and inaudible efforts to adhere to forthcoming
Borders with adjoining country: Montenegro EU policy once Bosnia eventually joins the Union, the idea of
- 225km, Croatia - 932km, Serbia - 302km not being able to smoke anywhere in Bosnia would, rather
Politics: nicely, be considered sacrilegious by much of its population.
Bosnia and Herzegovina is an emerging federal demo- It is perfectly common to see people smoking in restaurants
cratic republic. The Council of Ministers of BiH is the while others are eating at the same table, many people
head of government. smoke half-way through a course, and the whole country is
Date of next local elections: General Elections in 2010. delightfully free of the smoking regulations so common in
Members of the Presidency: Haris Silajdzic, Zeljko Komsic much of the rest of Europe and North America.
and Nebojsa Radmanovic
Chairman of the Council of Ministers: Nikola Spiric
Governing party: multi-party system National holidays
Local time:
Sarajevo is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 January 1 - New Year, (all offices closed)
hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving time. March 1 - Independence day (all offices closed - only in
Federation of BiH)
May 1 - International Labor Day (all offices and majority
of businesses closed)
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com November 25 - National day (all offices closed)

BasiCs 7
Tourists, back-packers, visitors and business travellers and the occasional shredded building that has not been
should be aware that this is a full-on smoking country, and renovated or demolished are all around you. Look down at
that any complaints by outsiders about cigarette smoke the pavement when you walk: youll see many a familiar shape
and the perils thereof will be met with total derision and of a large bears paw, the residue of an explosive mortar
scornful laughter by both Bosnians and foreigners who impact on the ground: fading, pink plastic has been poured
live there. into some of them to preserve the shape for posterity, sites
that are known as Sarajevo roses. The war in Bosnia saw
War 100,000 people die, a million people displaced or turned
into refugees before NATO troops, and massive international
Take a walk through the centre of Sarajevo, and even humanitarian intervention, flooded into Bosnia to try and
fifteen years after the war ended in 1995, bullet-holes, re-construct the country after the Dayton Peace Accords
pockmarked pavements hit by mortar and artillery blasts, were signed in 1995.
Language
Pronunciation Days
as in ship Monday - ponedjeljak
as in cello Tuesday - utorak
as in pleasure Wednesday - srijeda
in jam Thursday - etvrtak
d as in enjoy Friday - petak
Saturday - subota
Niceties & Necessities Sunday - nedjelja
Yes - Da
No - Ne Months
Good - Dobro January - januar
Please - Molim February - februar
Thank you - Hvala March - mart
Sorry! - Izvini April - april
Good morning - Dobro jutro May - maj
Good day - Dobar dan June - juni
Hello - Zdravo July - juli
Good night - Laku no August - avgust
Excuse me! - Oprostite September - septembar
How are you? - Kako si? October - oktobar
November - novembar
Practicalities December - decembar
When? - Kada?
Where? - Gdje? Time
Who? - Ko? Now - sada
Why? - Zato? Later - kasnije
I have... - Ja imam Today - danas
I am... - Ja sam Tomorrow - sutra
Whats your name? - Kako se zove? Yesterday - jue
My name is... - Zovem se In the morning - ujutro
Im from... - Ja sam iz In the afternoon - poslijepodne
...UK - Velike Britanije In the evening - navee
...USA - Sjedinjenih Amerikih Drava At night - nou
I dont understand - Ne razumijem
I dont speak Bosnian - Ja ne govorim bosanski Restaurant talk
How much does this cost? - Koliko kota? Waiter! - Konobar!
A table for two - Sto za dvoje
Signs Non-smoking / smoking - nepuaka zona / puaka
Open - Otvoreno zona
Closed - Zatvoreno The menu please - Meni/jelovnik, molim Vas
Entrance - Ulaz Id like to order - elim da naruim
Exit - Izlaz Do you have vegetarian food? - Sluite li vegetarijansku
Push - Gurni hranu?
Pull - Vuci Surprise me! - Iznenadite me
The bill, please - Raun, molim Vas
Numbers
0 - nula 1 - edan Bar talk
2 - dva 3 - tri One coffee, please - Jednu kafu, molim Vas
4 - etiri 5 - pet A beer, please - Pivo, molim Vas
6 - est 7 - sedam Cheers! - ivjeli!
8 - osam 9 - devet You have beautiful eyes - Ima lijepe oi
10 - deset 20 - dvadeset Can I have your number - Mogu li dobiti tvoj broj
50 - pedeset 100 - sto telefona?

8 BasiCs
A word from the mayor

ries dating back to the Ottoman Empire or Austrian
rule. They can listen to the whisper of the past and
perhaps one day personally talk about the warm,
welcoming people and about a city where dreams and
reality meet. This walk will open wide all the doors of
the past, and every corner will tell its remarkable story,
from the crowded streets to the silence and shade of
Sarajevos gardens.
The idea of publishing this type of guide dates back

several years. The aim was to enable easier access to
information required to take you through the diversity of
the city of Sarajevo. The guide contains useful tips and
directions to places of interest as well as an overview
of the city scene. In order to realise the idea of the city
guide a wait was required for the segments of the past
and the present to join.
Today Sarajevo is a continously expanding modern

cosmopolitan centre where new and imposing build-
Welcome to Sarajevo, a city of diversity and friend- ings rise. Thanks to events such as the Sarajevo Film
ship. Festival, Jazz Festival and Baarkijske Noi Festival,
Sarajevo has become an international metropolis of
Throughout its history, Sarajevo has witnessed nume- modern art and culture. To this day diversity, oppos-
ous changes. As a kind of a link between the East and ing views, innovative ideas, different cultures and
the West, as a meeting place of different cultures, ideas generations, old and new architecture and old and
and customs, Sarajevo has retained each sequence new art flows all join up in Sarajevo. The citizens of
of its past, each mark of the times and rulers that Sarajevo create that distinct city feel and the key link
walked these lands. enabling the harmonization of differences. However,
Sarajevo does not belong to its citizens only but to all
A walk through the heart of the city simultaneaously those who consider it their own and who visit it with
becomes a walk through all the periods of the citys good intentions.
existence. Every visitor can daydream about the sto- Dr Alija Behmen
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BasiCs 9
Bosnian Cuisine
If you like meat, youll love Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Meat is a standard for any meal. However, there is still
lots of interesting meals you can make do if you are a
vegetarian.
A typical breakfast is very different from a traditional
English, American or Australian breakfast, but they can
be found in the occasional restaurant. Omlettes, hams,
eggs and cheeses are very popular and can be found even
in most places.
For budget travelers the large supermarkets carry fruit
yogurt, muesli, and juices and the open markets are
always filled with fresh fruit. Bakeries open early and
sell hot rolls, croissants, brown bread, apple and cherry
strudles which you can take to a cafe and enjoy with a
morning cappucino. Cevapi sa kajmakom
All travellers should at some point enter a buregdzenica and Cheeses are also prepared and strained in a variety of
try the famous traditional pita dishes of burek, zeljanica, ways and are absolutely delicious. The vegetarian traveller
sirnica, and krompirusa. They are all made from scratch will have a hell of a time getting through these which can
and have been a traditional meal since Ottoman times. ordered as a large starter or side dish in restaurants,
Burek is a meat pie wrapped in filo-dough. The zeljanica bought in supermarkets or at the market where is has
is made from spinach and cheese. Sirnica is made from a been freshly and naturally prepared.
fresh, homemade cheese and krompirusa is diced potatoes
with spices. Usually one portion (porcija) is enough to stuff Travnicki a white, feta-like cheese from the Travnik district
you. A porcija costs between 2-3KM. They may ask if you in central Bosnia. It is a bit salty and very popular with
like pavlaka spread on top. Pavlaka is a fresh cream that meze, which is the tradition of slow drinking and eating
tastes wonderful with the pita. Thin yogurt is also a popular throughout the course of a whole day.
drink alongside your pita.
Meat eating travellers should try out the wide range of Vlaicki similar to travnicki cheese. It is a highland
available meats and should not miss the typical rostiljnica cheese from the mountain villages on Vlaic Mountain in
that serves up a range of grilled meats specialities. central Bosnia.
Whether chicken, beef, lamb, or pork, they come fresh from
the mountainside. It is common practice here to raise all Livanjski is more similar to the dry yellow cheeses of
animals free range, and with no hormones or chemicals. Dalmatia. It is very tasty and usually more expensive than
Most people say they can taste the difference. others. It originates from the west Bosnian town of Livno.
Mladi Sir literally means young cheese. There isnt an
Here is a list of the most popular traditional dishes: equivalent to it in English. It has a soft texture and is
unsalted. Often times it is served with a cream sauce on
Cevapi small meat sausages of lamb and beef mix. They top. It is very healthy.
are usually served with fresh onions and pita bread on the Kajmak is the most difficult of all cheeses to translate.
side. Cevapi usually come in pointer finger size sausages It is the top layer skimmed from milk, it is creamy and
and are offered by five or ten pieces. extremely tasty. Kajmak and ustipak (doughnut type roll)
is a wonderful appetizer.
Teletina is veal, usually served in cutlets. Veal in BiH
is not produced by locking calves in a cage to ensure Iz mjeha sheep milk poured into a specially sewn sheep
softer meat. skin bag. After a time the dry cheese is taken out of the
skin container and the result is a strong, dry cheese that
Jagnjetina lamb grilled over an open fire. resembles real parmesan.
Musaka a meat pie made of minced beef, very similar to

shepherds pie.
Filovane paprike fried peppers stuffed with minced meat

and spices.
Prut air dried ham, similar to italian proscuitto.
Suduk beef sausages with a similar form to pepperoni.
Suho Meso dried meat, either beef or pork.
Sarme meat and rice rolled in cabbage or grape leaves.
Ispod Saca similar to a dutch oven. A metal dish is

placed on hot coals, the food is placed in the dish and
covered by a lid which is then completely covered in hot
coals and left to bake. Inat Kua is a great place to sample traditional Bosnian fare

10 history
Sarajevo is the administrative and cultural capital of the citys identity, most recently surfacing during the four-year
Bosnia and Herzegovina. Situated at the far southern siege of the city from 1992-1995.
end of the Dinaric Alps, it lies between the mountains of
Romanija, Bjelanica, Igman and Trebevi, and through it Austro-Hungarian Rule
flows the narrow, shallow Miljacka River, which rises close
to Pale, five miles due east of the city. The citys second architectural expansion started following
the Austro-Hungarian occupation in the late 19th century
First Settlements and lasted until the beginning of World War I in 1914, after
the 1878 treaty of Berlin gave the Austro-Hungarian Empire
Sarajevo is stretched across an area known as Sarajevo a mandate to administer Bosnia. The city was modernized
Field, and there are numerous archeological findings during this period. Austro-Hungarians established the citys
attesting to settlements in this area dating back to the first public transportation system and the first telephone lines.
Neolithic period, as well as records that point to a significant Many cultural and educational institutions were founded in this
Ilyiran presence in the area. A primary Neolithic site was period as well. The National (Land) Museum, the First Sheriate
found at Butmir, outside Sarajevo. Ilyrian tribes flourished Law High School and the National Theatre. Sarajevo City Hall,
in the region from about 1,000 BC until their final conquest Ashkenazi Synagogue, and Catholic Cathedral were also added
by the Romans around 9AD. For the Romans, with their to the expanding city. The growth of Sarajevo was interrupted
aggressive, commercially-oriented and warlike policy of on June 28, 1914 when Gavrilo Princip assassinated Austro-
spreading the Pax Romana, the mountainous country that Hungarian Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophia
lay just next door to them became a source of mineral wealth, during their visit to Sarajevo, setting off the chain of events
particularly silver. that led to the start of World War I.
Spread of Christianity Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes
Between 6-800 AD arrived the Slavs, there was widespread Following the Treaty of Versailles in 1918 that ended World
conversion to Christianity, and the next five hundred years saw War I, Sarajevo, along with Bosnia and Herzegovina, became
Bosnia at the focal point of influence through varying periods a part of the newly-formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and
of conquest, control and administration by Serbs, Hungarians, Slovenes. It remained within the later-renamed Kingdom
Byzantines and Croats. The medieval town of Hodidjed was of Yugoslavia until the beginning of World War II, when the
located in the vicinity of todays Sarajevo; however, the actual monarchy was abolished and, following the end of the war,
name of the city, which comes from the Turkish words saray the new socialist Yugoslavia was created.
and ovasi, meaning court and field respectively, indicates
that Sarajevo is a creation of the Ottoman Empire. Yugoslavia and Socialism
The Ottomans The general plan for development of Sarajevo was adopted
in 1945, and the city that suffered tremendous losses during
Bosnia had starting emerging as an independent state since World War II under the Germans expanded. German occupation
the mid-1100s, and became a kingdom under King Tvrtko had started in 1941, and Bosnia was assimilated into an
the 1st in 1377, just as the Turks started their foray into the atrocious Croatian Ustasha nationalist entity, where multiple
country, presaging the Ottoman invasion which took place atrocities were carried out, particularly against Serbs, many
between 1430 to 1592, when the last town in Bosnia - Bihac of which took place at the notorious Jasenovac concentration
- fell into Turkish hands. The country was now part of the camp south of Zagreb where between 50-70,000 people,
Ottoman Empire, and just in case there was any question mainly Serbs, were slaughtered. In 1943 Josep Brod Tito,
that the countrys religious mix of Orthodox, Christianity and leading the Bosnian partisans on covert operations in the
the indigenous Bosnian church was not sufficient, Islam mountain fastnesses of the centre of the country, established
joined the fray. Sarajevo became one of the most powerful the basis of the post-war Yugoslavia, of which Bosnia would
cities in the Turks new frontier territories, and although the be one of six republics. Subsequent to the war, Sarajevo was
capital moved twice, to Banja Luka and Travnik, Sarajevo not only rebuilt but considerably expanded as well. It almost
remained the nerve-centre. tripled in size during its third expansion which took place during
the formative years of socialist Yugoslavia. By 1984, when the
Sarajevo was founded in the mid 15th century by the Ottoman city hosted the 14th Winter Olympic Games, Sarajevo was a
governor of Bosnia - Isa-bey Ishakovic - to house the areas modern capital city of around 500,000 people.
Ottoman government. Anyone strolling through Sarajevo will
easily notice the citys three distinct parts, each of which are Looking Back
reflective of the historical period in which it was built. The
initial expansion of the city occurred during the first 150 years Talk to Bosnians about the Tito era, and it is fondly
or so of Ottoman rule. Many of the citys architectural gems remembered as a halcyon period set in a kind of aspic of
were built during this period, such as Gazi Husrev Beys and nostalgia, of benevolent socialism, when everybody had a
The Emperors Mosques. Baarija - the citys once-great car, a state apartment, holidays on the coast every year,
bazaar - was also constructed during the same period. By and life was a given. Yes and no, is the answer. The dream
the beginning of the 17th century, Sarajevo grew into a was founded on political repression and kept alive by wildly
vibrant community of artisans and an important merchant unrealistic economic planning and strategies, based on much
trading post, as well as one of the most significant cities in heavy foreign borrowing. But for most people, it functioned,
the European part of the Ottoman Empire. In 1697 Sarajevo Tito kept nationalism at bay, and the country appeared to
was attacked and burnt by Prince Eugene of Savoy, the final prosper. It was during this period that Sarajevo developed a
of series of unremitting attacks by the Hapsburgs and the reputation as something of a cultural centre, a party town,
Venetians. The Ottomans moved the capital to Travnik, and and acquired the rather clichd adjective that is so often used
Sarajevo started to refuse to accept governors sent from to describe it: cosmopolitan. But it was a tougher, fiercely
Istanbul. This independent, self-determining and occasionally independent and more gutsy series of characteristics that
bloody-mindedness of spirit was to become a core feature of was to carry it through the years of the 1992-1995 war.

Culture & events 11
Sarajevo brims with an affordable and diverse cultural life. Vrooom

It is proudly host to the Sarajevo Film Festival, which in fact City Pub
in one of the most important in south eastern Europe. Fes- 9 December 2009
tivals, performances, concerts and events are happening
in and around town almost all the time so be sure to keep
an eye (or an ear) out for some cultural entertainment. Festivals
Agro Food Skenderija Centre, tel. (+387) 33 21 73
27. Sarajevos inaugural eco-food fair runs from 18 - 21
Music events December, and includes tastings and competitions as well
Terminal Festival - electronic music as various lectures, conferences and round-table discussion
Various venues with participants from Bosnia and abroad.
9 - 12 October 2009
Baarijske Noi Dalmatinska 2/1, tel. (+387)
Hladno Piva 33 20 79 29/(+387) 33 20 79 72, fax (+387) 33
Dom Mladih, Skenderija 207 921, sarajevoar t@bih.net.ba, w w w.bascar-
23 October sijskenoci.ba. Baarija Nights is the tradi tional
summer festival that takes place each year for the entire
French Hardcore Night month of July on Sarajevos streets, squares, theaters,
Klub AG and galleries. The festi val offers ballets and theater
27 October performances, exhibits, concerts of popular and classi-
cal music, and special programs for children and youth.
Concierto de Aranjuez by J. Rodrigo Q Free admission.
National Theatre
30 October International Theater Festival (MESS) B-3, Marala
Tita 54/1, tel. (+387) 33 20 03 92/(+387) 33 21 19 72,
Halloween with Lutzenkirchen fax (+387) 33 21 19 72, mess@mess.ba, www.mess.
Skenderija ba. The International Theater Festival (MESS) has been held
31 October 2009 since the 1960s. The event attracts various international
theatre groups as well as some of the most prestigious
Anouar Brahem names of theatre. MESS is the perfect opportunity to watch
Bosnian Cultural Centre masterpieces of performing arts at a low price, and usually
4 November 2009 without advance reservations. This year it runs from 16 - 27
October, and will feature 26 performances by ensembles from
S.A.R.S. 14 countries. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Coloseum Club
7 November Sarajevo Film Festival B-4, Zelenih Beretki 12/I,
tel. (+387) 33 22 15 16, fax (+387) 33 26 33 81,
Analena info-sff@sff.ba, www.sff.ba. The Sarajevo Film Festival
OKC Abrasevic (SFF) is the most prestigious film festival in south eastern
4 December Europe, and aims to support and promote the art of film
within the region. The festival has a distinctly international
Analena character and seems to have increased in both scale and
Access Club notoriety each year since it was first held in 1995. QOpen
5 December 09:00 - 17:00.
Sarajevo Jazz Fest

Potanski Pretinac 600, tel. (+387) 33 55 04 80/(+387) 61 26 71 14, fax (+387) 33 55 04 81, info@jazzfest.
ba, www.jazzfest.ba. The international music festival Jazz Fest has been held since 1996. Every year Jazz Fest hosts
some of the most prestigious jazz musicians from around the world. If you are in Sarajevo in November, dont miss it.

12 Culture & Events
Culture Department of the Spanish Embassy
ekalua 14, tel. (+387) 33 223 331/(+387) 33 278
560, fax (+387) 33 278 582, ofcult@bih.net.ba. Part
of the Spanish Embassy, the cultural department organizes
events related to Spanish and Latin American culture. Ask
here also for Spanish language courses. QOpen 10:00
- 13:00 & 15:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institut B-5, Bentbaa 1a, tel. (+387) 33 570
000, fax (+387) 33 570 030, info@sarajevo.goethe.
org, www.goethe.de/sarajevo. The cultural centre from
Germany organizes german language courses, exhibitions,
concerts and so on relating to German culture. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Islamic Republic of Iran Culture Centre Ferhadija 2, tel.
La Boheme at the National Theatre (+387) 33 711 055. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Turkish Cultural Information Centre B-4, Mula
Sarajevska Zima (Sarajevo Winter) Marala Tita 9a, Mustafe Baeskije do 31, tel. (+387) 33 271 150.
tel. (+387) 33 20 79 45/(+387) 33 20 79 48, fax (+387) Movies on Tuesdays at 17:00 (English subtitles). QOpen
33 20 79 48, ibrosa@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevskazima. 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
ba. Sarajevo Winter has become a traditional gathering of art-
ists from all over the world ever since it was first held in 1984
during the XIV Winter Olympic Games. The program features Galleries
concerts, exibitions in galleries and museums, theater plays. Collegium Artisticum A-2, Terezije bb (Centar Sken-
There is something for everyone. derija), tel. (+387) 33 270 750/(+387) 33 204 352,
fax (+387) 33 270 751, cagalerija@open.net.ba, www.
collegium.ba. Formed in 1975, Collegium Artisticum provided
Cinemas a gallery and meeting place for the nations three premier
Apolo Mis Irbina 2, tel. (+387) 33 44 52 01. art associations. Operating throughout the war years, the
Multiplex Cinema City Titova 26, tel. (+387) 33 Collegium remains a gathering venue for many of the citys
228 008, fax. (+387) 33 228 008, info@cinemacity. artists and intellectuals and has been involved in a range of
ba, www.cinemacity.ba cultural programmes that cover the arts in all their forms.
Unitic Fra Anela Zvizdovia 1, tel. (+387) 33 29 50 QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
01. QOpen 18:00 - 20:30.
Galerija 10m ((Camille Laurelli)) B-4, Stakleni
Grad, Ferhadija 17, tel. (+387) 63 95 21 97/(+387) 61
Concert Halls 917 037. Q Thu-Sun 14:00-19:00, closed Mon-Wed
Sarajevo Arts Agency Dalmatinska 2/I, tel. (+387) 33
20 79 29/(+387) 33 20 79 21, fax (+387) 33 20 79 72, Retrospectrum B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8, tel. (+387) 33
koncagsa@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevoarts.ba. The Sarajevo 266 550, fax (+387) 33 664 162, ugbih@yahoo.com.
Arts Agency organises a variety of concerts and festivals around Q Tue-Sat 12:00-20:00, closed Sun & Mon
Sarajevo and the rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Sarajevo Philharmonic B-4, Obala Kulina 9, tel.
(+387) 33 66 65 19/(+387) 33 66 65 20, fax (+387) Theatres
33 66 65 21. The Sarajevo Philharmonic Orchestra is able Sarajevo Youth Theatre B-3, Kulovia 8, tel. (+387)
to trace its roots back to before World War I, when serious 33 44 25 72, fax (+387) 33 20 57 99, pozmladi@bih.
musicians in the region were engaged in military instrumental net.ba, www.pozoristemladih.ba. Formed in 1997, the
music and other ensembles such as the Military Music Sarajevo Youth Theatre was the result of a merger between
Orchestra, the Student Orchestra of the Great Gymnasium two other theatre groups for young people that had been in
of Sarajevo, the Musical Choir for Violins, of the Serbian vocal existence since 1950. It has won numerous accolades and
association Sloga, and Mannergesangverein, a musical awards and some of its members have gone to become
society comprised of Austrian officials. amongstBosnias best-known performers. As their website
says, Sarajevos Youth Theatre has been and has remained
Culture Centres a theatre for all generations.
SARTR (Sarajevo War Theatre) emalua 1,
British Council Ljubljanska 9, tel. (+387) 33 250 220, tel. (+387) 33 66 40 70. Often performing for beer
fax (+387) 33 250 240, British.Council@britishcouncil. and cigarettes during the siege, when most artists and
ba, www.britishcouncil.ba. The British Council is the UKs performers had fled the city, these days the Sarajevo
leading international organisation for educational and cultural War Theatre (SARTR) is a successful professional theatre
relations. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Fri 08:30 - 15:30. Closed company with an international reputation. During the war the
Sat, Sun. Information Centre: company gave over 2000 performances, often in the most
Opening Times are from 12:00 - 17:00. difficult of conditions, as part of the theatre against death
Centre Andre Malraux Mula Mustafe Baeskije motive that lay at the heart of its formation and existence.
8, tel. (+387) 33 206 889, fax (+387) 33 668 605, The National Theatre B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 9, tel.
malraux@bih.net.ba, www.malraux.ba. A French cultural (+387) 33 22 16 82/(+387) 33 66 36 47, fax (+387) 33
centre based in Sarajevo. Library and information available 44 51 38, npsa@bih.net.ba, www.nps.ba. The National
for French speaking expatriates. French lessons for locals. Theatre of Sarajevo has been performing both in Bosnia and
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. The abroad since its founding in 1921. During the last 85 + years
Library has different opening times: its performers, directors, choreographers and other staff have
Monday, Wednesday, Friday: 10:00-18:00h won great acclaim and numerous awards. QOpen 09:00
Tuesday and Thursday: 14:00-18:00h - 12:00 & 16:00 - 19:30. Tickets: 2.50-5.

Culture & Events 13

14 Culture & Events
INTERNATIONAL THEATER FESTIVAL
MESS - SARAJEVO
Sarajevo is a city of a long theatre tradition and culture, and MESS Festival (Small and Experimental Stages), was one
of the best theatre events in the territory of the former Yugoslavia. The MESS Festival forty nine years of its existence
undoubtedly promoted modern theatre expression. Since 1960, the year when the Festival was established, numerous
ensembles from almost all the worlds major theatre centers (Warsaw, Paris, New York, Moscow, Zurich, Bologna,
Bucharest, Budapest) have taken part in it.
As it was impossible to organize an International Theatre Festival during the siege of the City, in 1993 the International
Theatre and Film Festival started presentations and productions of artistic programs whose aim was, under the siege
conditions, to contribute to the cultural life in Sarajevo, international reputation of the city, to the establishment and
development of international cooperation. Culture as a fundamental human need was used as one of the ways to break
up to the siege, to maintain life, to cherish quality Within its activities, the MESS organized the First International
Film Festival in 1993, which was estimated to have been the most important event in 1993, then the Festival of the
Sarajevo Alternative Scene. The theatre production was also continued so that from 1993 to the end of the siege ten
performances were produced, among which there were Waiting for Godot directed by Susan Sontag, Alcestis ,
Silk Drums, In the Country of Last Things, Golden Eternal Braid directed by Haris Paovi, Circus directed by
Peter Schumann. In 1994 the Sarajevo Festival Ensemble, as part of the MESS Festival, with two of its performances
did its large tour of Europe, organized by Peter Brook Theatre, Bouffes du Nord (Paris), playing on the stages of Paris,
Amsterdam, Geneva, Berlin The MESS also organized a multimedia festival Baby Universe (the summer of 94)
and a large project Memory Module (96) under which published were the translations of Paul Austers books, Claude
Lanzmanns Shoah, and presented was the series of Mahabharata, held were concerts and exhibitions
In 1997, the Festival was resumed. Inter alia the following were presented: Volksbhne am Rosa Luxemburg Platz
Theater, Stary Teatr, Picollo Theater, Theatre des Bouffes du Nord, Centre Choregraphique National DOrleans, Living
Theatre, Divadlo Komedie, Theater Lliure, Rosas Company, Theater A.D. Ruhr, The Moving House Theater Company,
Meno Fortas Theatre Company, Schaubuehne am Lehniner Platz, schauspielhannover, staatsoperhannover, Moskovskii
Teatr Yunogo Zritelya, Katona Jozsef Sznhz, Le Volcan Scne Nationale du Havre, Pandur Theatres, State Academic
Drama Theater named T. Shevchenko, Centre for Theatre Practices Gardzienice, Teatro delle Albe, Les Ballets C. de
la B., Footsbarn Theatre, Oskaro Korunovo Teatras, National Theatre Ivan Vazov, Betty Nansen Teatret, Complicite,
Kretakor Szinhaz And directors and actors such as Eugenio Baraba, Frank Castorf, Giorgio Strehler, Josef Nadj,
Ariel Garcia Valdes, Phillipe Adrien, Rudi Husermann, Roberto Ciulli, Anne Teresa de Keersmaker, Paolo Magelli,
Eimuntas Nekrosius, Thomas Ostermeier, Wlodzimierz Staniewski, Mark Tompkins, Pippo Delbono, Olivier Py, Sidi
Larbi Cherkaoui, Mark Tompkins, Alexandar Morfov, Oskaras Korunovas, Luc Dunberry, Robert Wilson, Simon
McBurney, Arpad Schilling, Nicolas Stemann, Marco Martinelli, Peter Brook, Kama Ginkas, Toma Pandur, Rodrigo
Garcia, Andriy Zholdak
Unrestrained theatre play and specific theatre expression established themselves as the Festival aesthetic and ethical
postulates. This means that the Festival is open for contemporary trends in the world theatre (and exchange with it)
without the narrowing of horizons of understanding the theatre language, respecting the freedom of authors concept
and system, his attitude to old and new forms of expression and content. Therefore, the Festival aspires to be an
annual review of the most interesting theatre achievements, professional theatres, theatre companies, ensembles
projects conceived and carried out throughout the world the quality of which is professionally recognized.
The Festival also has a production character... During the Festival, symposiums will be held and they will also have
international character with the participation of critics, theatre analysts, drama artists and writers. During their stay,
many outstanding guests will visit faculties, conduct workshops and creative activities.
The realisation of the 49th International Theater Festival MESS Sarajevo has started already. As usual, the MESS Festival
will be held from 16 - 26 October on the all theater stages of Sarajevo, Zenica, but Gorazde and Srebrenica, too.

sPorts & aCtivities 15
Swimming Pools
Termalna Rivijera Butmirska cesta 18, Ilida, tel.
(+387) 33 771 000, fax (+387) 33 771 010, info@
terme-ilidza.ba, www.terme-ilidza.ba. Large water park
in Ilida. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Pools: 9.00 a.m. - 9.00
p.mTropical garden: 8.00 a.m. - 10.00 p.m. Admission:
KM 9-17. PTAFLGBKC
Tennis
Tennis Centre Stup Nikole opa 217 (Bojnika bb),
tel. (+387) 33 468 231/(+387) 33 457 286, contact@
tcs.ba, www.tcs.ba. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Tennis Head Akademija Donji Hotonj II/B, tel. (+387)

33 482 416/(+387) 61 172 894, fax (+387) 33 482
415, info@headakademija.ba, www.headakademija.
ba.
Hiking
Hotel Termag Polji-
Paragliding on Jahorina ce bb, Jahorina, tel.
(+387) 57 27 04 22,
w w w.termaghotel.
Extreme Sports com. The hills around
Scorpio Extreme Sports Club Tel. (+387) 61 60 Sarajevo are alive with
81 30/+387 61 78 81 05, info@scorpio.ba, www. the sounds of a range
scorpio.ba. of ou tdoor activities
throughout most of the
Fitness Centres year. Well-known for
winter sports, the re-
Club Fighter Branilaca Dobrinje 4a, tel. (+387) 61 23 gion also offers plenty
11 29, fighter@bih.net.ba, clubfighter.net. to do in th e warmer
Dino company B-3, Mis Irbina 10, tel. (+387) 61 55 07 months, including hik-
80/(+387) 61 55 07 81, dino.company@gmail.com. ing and biking through
Fitness Centre Body Art B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipaina the beautiful Bosnian
bb, Zetra, tel. (+387) 33 276 123. mountains. The Hotel Termag, the big place situated
Hotel Green Ustanicka bb, Ilida, tel. (+387) 33 63 97 on the slopes of Jahorina, offers a range of activities for
01, greenp@bih.net.ba, www.green.co.ba. guests or day visitors. In summer, mountain and quad
L.A. Lifetime Fitness Dzemala BIjedica 166a, bikes can be hired or you can give paragliding a go to
tel. (+387) 61 10 94 32, info@lafitness.ba, www. get a birds eye view of a bit of Bosnia. During the winter
lafitness.ba. there are ski and snowboarding classes and the hotel
Triumph Sports for Kids Semira Fraste 13, tel. also boasts its own ice rink. And, if that all sounds way
(+387) 61 01 84 82. too active, the coffee shop and bar is a great place from
Youth House Demala Bijedia bb, tel. +387 33 which to watch others exercising.
660 519, centar@youthhousesarajevo.ba, www.
youthhousesarajevo.ba. Skakavac If you fancy wandering to a waterfall make
the hike up to Skakavac, just north of the city. The falls
Paintball themselves are a pretty sight and the wander through
the woods has a forest fairytale feel to it. You can drive
Patinball CKP B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipaina bb, Zetra, much of the way, or walk the five or so kilometres up
tel. (+387) 62 12 22 26, fax ((+387) 33 55 49 06, int@ from the last bus stop in Nahoreva village, or go as far
ckp.ba, ckp.ba. as the taxi driver will take you once the road turns to dirt
and tramp the rest of the way. The turn-off to the falls
Stadiums & Arenas is clearly marked and the path well-trodden. If you want
refreshment its recommended you drop into Dragans.
CSC Ilida Mala Aleja 67, Ilida, tel. +387 33 63 This rustic restaurant is located on the right hand side of
65 14. the road just before the timber archway. Its very much a
CSC Skenderija A-2, Terezije bb, tel. (+387) 33 20 11 whats going is what you get place and since whats going
93, sport@skenderija.ba, http://www.skenderija.ba. is basic but delicious local food and a terrific atmosphere
Grbavica Stadium Zvornika 27, tel. (+387) 33 71 a brief stop can easily turn into an overnight stay (simple
52 01. accommodation - as in Dragan will throw you a blanket
Koevo Stadium D-2, Patriotske lige 35, tel. (+387) and pillow and direct you towards the loft - is available),
33 26 87 61. or mark the first of many return visits.
Ramiz Salin Hall Semira Frate bb, tel. (+387) 33
77 75 90.

16 Where to stay
Accommodation in Sarajevo is readily available for the Hecco De Luxe B-4, Ferhadija 2, tel. (+387) 33
traveling weary businessman or backpacker. You will have 55 99 95, fax (+387) 33 55 89 95, heccodeluxe@
no problem finding a luxurious room in a hotel or a cheap gmail.com, www.heccodeluxe.com. This restaurant
hostel or B&B with the following selection. and series of small hotel apartments has just been built
on the very top of the JAT tower: a rickety, old apartment
block sitting at the junction of Ferhadija and Marshal Tito
Symbol key streets, overlooking the Eternal Flame memorial to the dead
partisans of World War Two. Q (singles 100, doubles 130).
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted PTYJHAULGBKXW
O Casino H Conference facilities Holiday Inn B-1, B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4, tel. (+387)
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled 33 28 80 00, fax (+387) 33 66 38 62, reservation@
holiday- inn.ba, w w w.holiday- inn.com/sarajevo.
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking Oh dear. The iconic wartime days of Sarajevos famous
R Internet G Non-smoking rooms Holiday Inn, bullet-riddled and holding out to the last,
filled with war-correspondents and gritty hotel staff
K Restaurant J Old town location existing on the edge, are sadly long gone. Apart from
D Sauna C Swimming pool nice mushrooms at breakfast, some charming staff and
faded memories, this overpriced, uncomfortable and
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi architecturally hideous hotel has few redeeming features
anymore. Q 220 rooms (singles 100, doubles 150).
PTYJHA6UIFLGBKXW
Upmarket Radon Plaza Demala Bijedica 185, tel. (+387) 33 75
Central B-4, umurija 8, tel. (+387) 33 56 18 00, 29 00/(+387) 33 75 29 06, fax (+387) 33 75 29 01,
info@hotelcentral.ba, westwood.ba. More of a luxury booking@radonplazahotel.ba, www.radonplazahotel.
fitness centre and spa than a hotel - a member of staff once ba. This glistening five-star tower owned by the Avaz
quantified it for us as an 85/15 split in favour of the former business group is Sarajevos first full-functional five-star
- this West Wood-managed venture occupies a beautifully- hotel. Its set way out of the centre of town, but if you
restored old building in the city centre. The gym is packed are there for business its perfect. There are 112 rooms,
with state-of-the-art equipment, while the colonnaded pool conference centres, a spa, a swimming-pool, internet
is reminiscent of Justinians Cistern. The 15 rooms upstairs connection everywhere, a revolving restaurant, supremely
are expectedly lavish, although strangely enough for such comfortable rooms and 24-hour room-service - in short,
an upmarket location some only have small skylights rather everything one would expect. And its not that much
than actual windows. Q 15 rooms (single KM200, doubles more expensive than more prosaic city-centre joints. Q
KM240, suite KM300). PJAFKDCW 122 rooms (singles 105, doubles 170, 3 suites 245).
PTHAUFLEGBKDXCW
City Boutique B - 4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije 2,
tel. (+387) 33 566 850, info@cityhotel.ba, www.
cityhotel.ba. Only opened in August, this is the newest
addition to Sarajevos upmarket accommodation field.
Situated halfway between Baarija and the BBI shopping
complex, virtuallyevery place of interest in the city centre
is only a few minutes walk away. The modern faade
stands in stark contrast to neighbouring buildings, and
while the interior design is not quite modern minimalist
you do get the impression that youve jumped at least a
few years into the future. If youre staying for any length of
time definitely consider upgrading to the deluxe rooms or
smaller apartments - they offer significantly more space
and the price difference is negligible. Q 19 rooms (singles
90-100, doubles 100-110, apartments 130-150).
PJARLW
Europe B-4, Vladislava Skaria 5, tel. (+387) 33

580 400/(+387) 33 580 500, fax (+387) 33 580
580, reception@hoteleurope.ba, www.hoteleurope.
ba. Located in the heart of Old Sarajevo, the hotel was
first established back in 1882 and reopened earlier this
year after an extensive make-over. A modern wing has
been cleaved onto the eastern side of the original Austro-
Hungarian structure giving the faade a somewhat bipolar
appearance, but the interior is about as luxurious as youre
likely to find anywhere in the city. The spacious rooms are
exceedingly comfortable and many offer spectacular views
of the surrounding Baarija area. Add to all this the 30%
discount theyre offering until the end of the year and the
place is downright cheap. Q 160 rooms (singles 92-143,
doubles 123-179, apartments 230) All rooms 30% off
until the end of 2009.. PJHARFLBKCW Ornate Bosnian woodwork

18 Where to stay
Sarajevo Demala Bijedica 169 A, tel. (+387) 33 777 beds swirled with silk drapes, luxurious fitted bathrooms and
900, fax (+387) 33 473 043, info@sarajevohotel.ba, cable television. Downstairs in the breakfast room theres
sarajevohotel.ba. Aside from an almost surreal petrol a filling selection of pastries first thing in the morning. This
station marring the otherwise gorgeous exterior, this place is hotel is a stones throw from the Gavrilo Princip Bridge, where
one of the most aesthetically perfect hotels weve ever seen - Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914. Q
unfortunately it has prices to match. Situated in new Sarajevo 17 rooms (singles 80, doubles 100, apartment 120).
near the national television station and countless shiny PTYJA6UGKX
new office buildings, it unabashedly caters to an upmarket
business clientele. The rooms are absolutely stunning as are Bosnia B-3, Kulovia 9, tel. (+387) 33 47 12 51,
the views from the enormous rooftop terrace and restaurant. fax (+387) 33 44 45 72, bosniahotel@bih.net.ba,
Curiously, non-guests can use the small fitness centre and www.bosniahotels.com. A relic of the old Yugoslav days,
massage services for fairly reasonable fees. Q 66 rooms particularly in terms of the dcor, but the staff are friendly
(singles 81-131, doubles 91-151, apartments 253). and attentive, and it is handy for getting almost anywhere in
PHARUIFLBKDCW Sarajevo on foot. Q 60 rooms (singles 85, doubles 100).
PTYJHAUILGBKXW
Dardanija B-3, Radieva 15, tel. (+387) 33 213 613,

Mid-range fax (+387) 33 213 616, dardanija@dardanija.co.ba,
Astra Garni B-4, Kunduriluk 2, tel. (+387) 33 47 www.dardanija.co.ba. May very well have been one of
51 00/(+387) 33 47 52 00, fax (+387) 33 47 63 00, the top hotels in town during its day, but those days have
h.astra.garni@bih.net.ba, www.astra-garni.com. long since passed - picture shiny bedspreads, green floors
ba. This comfortable, modern hotel is set bang in the and lots of gold-trimmed furniture. Your choice of rooms is
heart of Bascarsija, boasting a gym, sauna, conference also between front-facing ones with street noise or back
facilities and nicely-designed rooms, some set on two ones with depressing views of an alley. If that description is
levels. Probably the most conveniently-set hotel in town, not completely off-putting then the place might not be that
the downside is that Sarajevos heaving street culture bad of an option, as the rooms are comfortable enough
on the pedestrian lanes of Baarija can make it noisy and most are fairly large. Q (singles 62, doubles 104).
during summer months. But in winter it is both romantic PJAW
and efficient for business or pleasure. Q 53 rooms and
14 suites (singles 90, doubles 120, suites 130). Europa Garni B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33
PTYJHA6UFLGKDXW 23 28 55, europa-garni@smartnet.ba. Sitting a hundred
metres away from the Astra Garni is the Europa Garni: rooms,
Astra Hotel B-4, Zelenih Beretki 9, tel. (+387) 33 level of service, prices and comfort are all much the same,
25 21 00/(+387) 33 25 20 00, fax (+387) 33 20 99 with the added benefit that the Garni offers Sarajevos only
39, h.astra@bih.net.ba, www.hotel-astra.com.ba. Moroccan restaurant set across three different floors.
Comfortable, affordable, central, with friendly staff and great Intriguing. Q 28 rooms (singles 90, doubles 125).
breakfasts. Rooms on the second floor are best: king-sized PTJHAILGKXW
Out for a stroll in Baarija

Where to stay 19
Gaj B-3, Skenderija 14, tel. (+387) 33 55 48 05/(+387)

33 55 48 06, fax (+387) 33 44 52 00, info@hotel-gaj.
co.ba, www.hotel-gaj.com.ba. Small, modest 12-room
hotel with a nice garden set ten minutes walk from the centre.
Basic but comfortable. Q 12 rooms (singles 60, doubles
90). PTYJA6UILEGBKXW
Grand D-1, Muhameda ef. Pande 7, tel. (+387)

33 56 31 00, fax (+387) 33 56 32 00, hotelgrand@
hotelgrand.com, www.hotelgrand.com. A less than
inspirational-looking place on the hill behind the train station,
at first glance it appears a bit behind the times - much like
the photo of a Concorde hanging in the lobby. But we give
it credit: the service and accommodation are first rate,
and they somehow managed to secure the domain name
hotelgrand.com, which has to count for something. Also, if
youre staying over the weekend theres a 99% chance of
seeing a wedding party downstairs - crashing it is entirely up
to you and we take no responsibility for the consequences. Q
132 rooms (singles 61-76, doubles 95-116, suites 125).
PJHAULKW
Safir Jagodia 3, tel. (+387) 33 47 50 40, info@

hotelsafir.ba, www.hotelsafir.ba. Down a quiet alley
only a few minutes walk from Baarija, Safir is great
option for budget-conscious business travellers in town
for longer stays. In a modern building with touches of
traditional Bosnian architecture, each their eight rooms
is apartment type, which essentially means a standard
double with the addition of a good-sized kitchenette.
Although the brochure and website mention conference
facilities, the room in question is quite small and would
perhaps be suitable for meetings at best. Q 8 rooms
(singles 50, doubles 72).
Unica B-3, Hamdije Kresevljakovica 42, tel. (+387)

33 55 52 25/(+387) 33 55 53 35, fax (+387) 33
55 52 26, hotelunica@hotmail.com, www.hotel-
unica.ba. At last. Just what Sarajevo needed. Eight
double rooms and eight single rooms in a well-designed,
tasteful hotel bang in the middle of Sarajevo, with multi-
lingual staff and a nice cocktail bar thrown in. The rooms
are comfortable with wi-fi connections, flat-screen TVs
and great beds. Its about to become the most popular
hotel in town. Q 16 rooms (singles 75, doubles 100).
PTJHALGKXW
Vila Wien B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33

23 28 55, fax (+387) 33 23 28 60, europa-garni@
smartnet.ba, www.europa-garni.ba. This is a small
and cosy separate wing of the Europa Garni, with six
nice but small and newly-renovated rooms in the heart
of the old Town. Q 6 rooms (singles 70, doubles 80).
PTJALXW
Villa Orient B-4, Oprkanj 6, tel. (+387) 33 23 27 02,

fax (+387) 33 44 10 44, orient@bih.net.ba, www.
hotel-villa-orient.com. The downside is that for what it
costs - about 100 per night - the Vila Orient offers rather
small rooms which are slightly featureless. The upside is that
it is entirely central, right in the middle of Baarija, without
being too noisy. Q 19 rooms (singles 75, doubles 100).
PJHAFLBKXW
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

20 Where to stay
Konak B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije 48, tel. (+387)
Budget 33 47 69 00/(+387) 61 53 14 94, info@hotel-konak.
Halvat C-4, Kasima Efendije Dobrae 5, tel. (+387) 33 com, www.hotel-konak.com. This charming little hotel
237 714/(+387) 61 130 093, fax (+387) 33 237 715, was re-opened earlier this year by the newest generation
halvat@bih.net.ba, halvat.com.ba. We cant say enough of the Resi family to get into the hotel business. While
good things about this small family-run B&B just around the the street outside might be a little on the scruffy side, the
corner from Baarija. Mumo and Valida, the husband and hotel itself has been beautifully furnished in a traditional
wife team that runs the place, have been in the business style with solid wood everything, modern amenities and
for some 15 years and clearly pride themselves on paying a bright airy breakfast room downstairs. The service is
attention to the smallest of details: we dont want to ruin any excellent and the rates have been significantly reduced
future surprises but lets just say that guests birthdays dont due to the current economic climate, making it a great
go unnoticed. The house itself is incredibly cosy, with seven value for the foreseeable future. Definitely recommended.
rooms and a large lounge in the basement where breakfast Q 9 rooms (singles 50, doubles 70, apartment 150).
is served. Reservations are a must as their reputation keeps PJALBW
the place busy year round. Q 6 rooms (singles 46, doubles
68, triple 86). Prices are significantly lower from December Kovai B-4, C-4, Kovai 12, tel. (+387) 33 57 37 00,
to March. PJARB fax (+387) 33 57 37 01, info@hotelkovaci.com, www.
hotelkovaci.com. Yet another budget/mid-range option
Hecco C-4, Medrese 1, tel. (+387) 33 27 37 30/(+387) in the area immediately north of Baarija, Kovai looks
33 27 37 31, fax (+387) 33 27 37 31, hotel.hecco@ quite stylish from the outside but the interior is a little too
gmail.com, www.hotel-hecco.net. Set 500 metres Spartan for our tastes. If youre looking to splash out a bit
above the heart of Baarija, Sarajevos old Ottoman in this part of town, they do offer a large top floor apartment
quarter, the Hecco is neither as well-located nor opulent with a jacuzzi bath. Q 8 rooms (singles 50, doubles 70,
as its city-centre cousins, but for fifty euros per night for a triple 80, suite 100). JALBW
double, with a bright, spacious and comfortable room with
cable TV, wireless internet, satisfactory breakfast and a Palas Krivajska 1, tel. (+387) 33 72 54 00, fax (+387)
lovely espresso first thing, whos complaining. Its a bit of 33 72 54 08, info@palas.com.ba, www.palas.com.ba.
a hike back after a night out, but the view compensates. Bang next-door to the railway and bus station. Simple, but
Q 27 rooms (singles 40, doubles 57, triples 67). cheap and convenient for getting in to town on the tram or
PTYJHARLGKXW on foot. Q 53 rooms (singles 40, doubles 60). Breakfast
included. TALX
Hollywood Dr Pintola 23, Ilida, tel. (+387) 33 77 31
00, fax (+387) 33 77 31 45, info@hotel-hollywood. Pansion Stari Grad Bjelina ikma 4, tel. (+387) 33 23
ba, www.hotel-hollywood.ba. A massive hotel and 98 98, pansion_starigrad@hotmail.com. Located some
conference centre located in the near the airport in Ilida, 50m from the Sebilj in Baarija, this place is comfortable if
Hollywood is extremely popular with budget-minded not overwhelming. Some of the single rooms are only slightly
business travellers, NGO workers, sports teams and the larger than the beds and/or have bathrooms guaranteed to
like - and for good reason. Aside from ample conference give you bruised elbows, in other words, you may want to
facilities, multiple restaurants and comfortable modern negotiate for a double if youre the least bit claustrophobic.
rooms, the complex boasts a nearly Olympic-size swimming The aquarium and breakfast terrace are nice additions,
pool, full sports hall, 4-lane bowling alley, wellness centre but the real selling point is use of the adjacent guarded
and is right next door to the one of the best water parks car park - a rarity in the city centre - for a small additional
in the country. A great choice for those who have their fee. Q 10 rooms (singles 35, doubles 50, triples 65).
own transport or dont mind taking a taxi to the centre JALBW
and back. Q 200 rooms (singles KM 75-95, doubles
KM 120-140, triples KM 160-180, apartments KM 190). Yldz C- 4, Tahia Sokak 4, tel. (+387) 33 00
PTHARFLEBKDCW 00 00/(+387) 61 13 97 36, info@hotelyildiz.ba,
hotelyildiz.ba. Named after a neighbourhood in Istanbul,
Hotel Boutique 36 C - 4, Safet bega Basagica which is appropriate as it occupies a renovated Ottoman-
36, tel. (+387) 33 239 490, fax (+387) 33 233 style house just north of Baarija, Yldz has a bit more
309, boutique36@gmail.com, http://www.hb36. character than most of the nearby competition. Wed like
ba/. Bou ti qu e 36 on e minu te from Baarija. I n it more if the rates were slightly less expensive (perhaps
th e most famous and th e most at tracti ve par t o f acquiring the best phone number in Sarajevo wasnt cheap).
Sarajevo Old Town, this is a newly open hotel, offering Nevertheless its a good option for those who fancy the idea
high quality service, accommodation and relaxation. of staying in an old wooden house but still want WiFi and
Q (52 per person). satellite television. Q 7 rooms (singles 40, doubles 50,
triples 70). JAW
Identiko Guest House Halaci 3, tel./fax (+387) 33
23 33 10, identiko@bih.net.ba. Small simple rooms,
super-cheap, this makes a handy base from which to explore Hostels
the centre of Sarajevo. Breakfast not included. Q 8 rooms Lion B-4, Bravadzluk 30, tel. (+387) 33 23 61 37. On
(singles 24, doubles 75). the edge of Baarija. Some rooms dont have windows
and most are strangely decorated as though it were a dolls
Italija Pofalicka 7, tel. (+387) 33 65 04 50/(+387) 55 house. No breakfast available. Q (singles 25, doubles
65 04 85, fax (+387) 33 66 19 38, www.hotelitalia. 50). JAXW
ba. A straightforward hotel which has an extensive range
of sporting extras, including an indoor swimming-pool and
a small gym, which partly make up for the distance from
the city-centre. Q 36 rooms (singles 45, doubles 75). clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com
TAIFLKXC

restaurants 21
Bosnia, with its beautiful, favourable climate, has a

fantastic selection of natural produce, in particular fruit
and vegetables. The citys three main markets in Ciglane,
the city centre and Grbavica are well worth a visit, if for no
other reason than to see the massive seasonal displays
of cherries, apricots, nectarines, artichokes, avocados,
raspberries, walnuts, celeriac, new potatoes and almost
anything else you can think of. Many are just grown in
kitchen gardens, all are non-GM, and a lot have never seen
pesticides. The meat is excellent.
However, this wide variety of raw ingredients does not

always translate into good food being served in restau-
rants. Much of Bosnian cuisine is traditional, salty, meaty
and fatty food. Tradition and societal expectation often
stand in the way of culinary innovation, and too often the
best one can say about Bosnian food is that it is OK. Most
people eat at home, and restaurants are reserved for very
special occasions: below is a selection of those places
that do better than most.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted The wine collection at charming Noovi
E Live music S Take away Avlija C-3, Sumbula Avde 2, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 83,
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled fax (+387) 33 44 42 60, fkarkin@bih.net.ba, www.
avlija.ba. Meaning courtyard in Bosnian, the inside of this
R Internet L Guarded parking eclectic, noisy Bosnian restaurant is like a walled garden. To
O Casino J Old Town location start choose fried mushrooms in breadcrumbs or ustipce,
small deep-fried doughballs served with kajmak, soft
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi white cream cheese. Then follow on with fantastic pepper
B Outside seating V Home delivery steaks with perfect roast potatoes, or muckalicka, spiced
beef stew with peppers served in a clay pot. QOpen 08:00
- 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 4-22). TAX
Asian Buregdinica Bosna B-4, Bravadiluk 9. Weve heard
Hot Wok B-2; B-3, Titova 12, tel. (+387) 33 20 33 this no-nonsense Burek place recommended as far away as
22/(+387) 61 17 17 60, info@hotwokcaffe.com. Eat Slovenia, and based solely on the constant queue waiting
mango chicken with fried noodles and sip a large freshly to get a plate of the piping-hot savoury pastry its not
squeezed orange juice as you watch the cooks wok up sizzling, without good reason. Vegetarians have the option of sirnica
only mildly-improvised Thai food with inventive names like Hol- (cheese), zeljanica (spinach and cheese) or krompirua
lywood Chicks. Youll sit at high stools and be surrounded by a (potato), and theres even an air-conditioned dining room
cluster of Bosnian businessmen, international diplomats and up the dangerously steep stairs in back. When coming
bureaucrats, or a foursome of Bosnian women on a night out. from the direction of the Sebilj look for the red basketball
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 8-22). JAXS logo on your left. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (8-12 KM per kilo).
PJNBS
Kineski Restoran B-3, Ismeta Mujezinovia 14, tel.
(+387) 33 66 41 17, kineski.restoran.sarajevo@gmail. Dveri B-4, Prote Bacovica 12, tel. (+387) 33 53 70 20,
com. Opened this past summer to fill the MSG-flavoured void info@dveri.co.ba, www.dveri.co.ba. Beef goulash with
left by the closing of the citys only other Chinese restaurant, plums, fabulous home-made bread, vegetable soup served
this imaginatively named place (Chinese Restaurant in English) with a poached egg, a garden to sit in summer, a toasty
was still sorting out some of the subtle differences between interior in which to sip rakiya in winter and hospitable Bosnian
Chinese and Bosnian cuisine when we visited during its first staff speaking perfect English make this small restaurant
week. Aside from that small wrinkle the service is impeccable set in a pretty, flower-filled courtyard in Sarajevos Old Town
- it always helps to poach experienced professional staff from one of the best choices to eat at for any occasion. QOpen
other establishments - and the selection of dishes quite varied: 09:00 - 23:00. (KM6-18). AX
Coca Cola chicken anyone? The selection of wine is also im-
pressive. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (KM10-60). ALXS Inat Kua B-5, Veliki Alifakovac 1, tel. (+387) 33 447
867/(+387) 61 338 177, fax (+387) 33 560 319. Dishes
Bosnian are limited but the location is good and the tale of how this
restaurant came to be where it is, is pure Sarajevo - prevent
ASD B-4, Mali uriluk 3, tel. (+387) 33 238 500. This the waiter whisking your menu away and read how the House
modern canteen-style place in Baarija is great if you want to of Spite got its name and position. Specializing in local soups
sample a variety of Bosnian dishes without the hassle of sitting and mains, the House rambles upwards with three floors of
down for a proper meal in a restaurant. Just point to what looks group settings, or tables for two for more intimate dining.
good and specify if you want a small or large portion of it - no need Factor in the outdoor riverside tables and you have a pleasant
to master the menu beforehand or worry about pronunciation. setting for a traditional Bosnian experience, both culinary and
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. (KM 1.50-10). PJBS cultural. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (KM 10-20). AU

22 Restaurants
Kibe C-4, Vrbanjua 164, tel. (+387) 33 441 936, www. Its popular among expats and one of our personal favourites
restorankibe.ba. Clinging to the side of the hill a few kilometres - we seem to find ourselves here at least a couple times a
above Baarija, this family-run restaurant has been a month. They specialise in Tandoori, but pretty much have
Sarajevo institution since it opened in 1988. In a beautifully all the standards covered as well as a large selection of
converted house with multiple dining areas, the menu contains Nepalese dishes. The location is a bit out of the way if youre
all the Bosnian standards at prices similar to what youll find not familiar with the city so a taxi is probably a good idea,
in less-inspired settings below, and the food is unanimously or you can always take advantage of their delivery service.
considered some of the best in the city. Definitely a must visit QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (KM 9-17). PALS
on any trip, just make sure to call ahead for reservations as
window seats are scarce and demand understandably high.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 5-17). International
4 Sobe Gospode Safije C-3, Cekalusa 61, tel. (+387)
Lovac B-3; B-4, Petrekijina 24, tel. (+387) 33 66 41 62 62 28 22, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe.
76/(+387) 61 10 23 31, info@lovac-sarajevo.com, www. ba. Four Rooms of Mrs.Safije is the latest venture of the
lovac-sarajevo.com. Occupying a hundred year-old villa on owners of Hacienda cocktail bar and Baghdad Caf, and
the hill above the Cathedral, Lova (or the Hunter) lives up to their interior design flair has struck again. Glamorous,
its name with a menu full of venison, wild boar and other game dressed-up Sarajevans and foreigners flock to drink Bosnian
meat dishes, as well as pretty much every Bosnian specialty and Croatian wines and eat fusion food on three floors of
weve ever heard of. Appropriately enough the large outdoor this original Austro-Hungarian house set just outside the
seating area has a distinct hunting lodge feel to it, while inside centre. Themed on the early 1900s love-story between the
things are a bit statelier - though a fair amount of mounted Bosnian Safija and her Austrian lover, dishes that triumph
antlers, horns and heads still adorn the walls. QOpen 08:00 on the menu include salmon fillet with hollandaise, risotto
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (KM 8 - 36). PJALB with prawns and parmesan and chicken marinaded with
honey and chilli sauce QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (2.50-12).
Park Prineva B-5, Iza Hrida 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 27 08, PTILX
fax (+387) 33 53 24 03, www.parkprinceva.ba. You go to sit
and have a drink on the terrace at Park Prineva, set on the side of Dr Food B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10, tel. (+387) 33
a mountain overlooking Sarajevo, for one reason and one reason 20 55 51. Some of the best food in town. Prawn salad
alone: the view. Especially in summer, it offers the most amazing with rocket, grilled tuna steaks, fantastic beef, great
view all the way up the valley, and allows you to see the whole city chips, grilled St.Pierre fish and inventive puddings are
stretched underneath you. The staff are courteous, friendly and just some of the reasons why this small, cosy restaurant
efficient. The traditional Bosnian food is beyond bland. QOpen overlooking the River Miljacka works so well. Attentive staff,
11:00 - 23:00. (KM 8-22). TALEBX a really good wine list and affordable prices are the others.
Everything, from the stylish cutlery to the loos seems to be
Pod Lipom B-4, Prote Bakovica 6, tel. (+387) 33 44 just right. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (KM 10-28).
07 00. On a quiet alley just around the corner from the PTJABXSW
Sebilj but away from most of the tourist traffic, Pod Lipom
is a quaint traditional Bosnian restaurant with a lengthy Noovi Tina Ujevia bb, tel. (+387) 33 22 22 42. A new-
menu and reasonable prices. There are a lot of hot and cold ish wine-bar and restaurant, Noovi is situated just opposite
starters and soups to choose from so its great for groups the British Embassy on a small hill overlooking the centre of
who want to sample a bit of everything. If you want to get on town. Run as a joint-venture between the staff of I Tri Bic-
your waiters good side ask him about the time Bill Clinton chiere wineshop and Dr Food, it is a great place to amble
stopped by for some Sarajevski sahan. QOpen 09:00 along to on a sunny evening, have a bottle of Rioja and enjoy
- 24:00. (6 - 15 KM). JAB a platter of ham and cheese. If you feel like it there is seat-
ing indoors or out, their pasta and pizzas are well worth a
Urban Grill B-3, Pruakova 8, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 48, try, and the wine-list is beyond extensive. Some of the best
ugb@bih.net.ba, www.urbangrill.ba. The Brajlovi family staff in town. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (5-10).
had been providing high quality meat to other restaurants PJAB
for some 60 years before they finally decided to cut out the
middle-men and open their own chain of slightly upmarket Peppers A-2, Zagrebaka 4a, tel. (+387) 33 20 15
grills. So far they have two locations in Sarajevo, both of which 50, restoranbarpeppers@yahoo.com. Set snugly close
are a cut above most of the competition in terms of quality to the Grbavica headquarters of the Office of the High
and ambience while offering pretty much the same prices. Representative, or OHR, Bosnias foreign overseer, means that
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (KM 5 - 15). PJBS this charming, well-run restaurant has an international feel and
many international clients. The service is slick and fast, and
eljo 1 and 2 B-4, Kundurdiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33 dishes such as prawn cocktail, broccoli soup and excellent
44 70 00. Sarajevo evapii are small, immensely tasty pastas come served up to a background of jazz funk. Good
grilled spicy sausages, served with spiced flat bread called beers too. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. (6-17). PJAS
somun. Traditionally accompanied by a glass of yoghourt,
they are great at any time of day. Particularly good hangover Pivnica HS B-4, Franjevaka 15, tel. (+387) 33 49 11
food. Named after one of the citys two main football clubs, 00, www.sarajevska-pivara.ba. A favourite among tourists
eljo does some of the best evaii in Bosnia. QOpen 09:00 and well-heeled locals alike, this restaurant attached to the
- 23:00. (KM 4-7). JBX Sarajevska Brewery consists of one enormous hall with
seating on two levels. The menu has just about anything
Indian you can think of, although house specialties seem to include
many sausage and veal dishes. Aside from being on the
Taj Mahal Paromlinska 48a, tel. (+387) 61 27 73 expensive side - most mains with a side are around 20 KM
84, www.tajmahal-sarajevo.com. If youve had your fill - its also a little too nice for its own good, as the flawless
of traditional Bosnian fare or are just looking for something dcor somewhat compromises the traditional beer hall feel.
different, Sarajevos only Indian restaurant is a great option. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (7-40 KM). TJAL

Restaurants 23
Pravda B-3, Radieva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15, serves up large portions of fairly decent Tex-Mex standards
pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravda.ba. Sarajevos like tostadas, burritos and enchiladas, as well as many
beautifully designed bar of the moment boasts comfortable vegetarian options and some vaguely Mexican-sounding
sofas and high stools on which to perch and lounge, and good meat dishes that all come with a slight Bosnian twist. The
Croatian and Argentinian wines and snacks. Chicken Satay large covered terrace built to resemble some kind of rustic
or tasty Dalmatian prawns with rocket are 7. QOpen 10:00 Latin American beach bar is an atmospheric place to enjoy
- 24:00. (KM 6-24). TJA6EBX an evening Corona or tequila cocktail along with a starter or
two. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (KM 7-20).
To Be or Not to Be Cizmedluk 5, tel. (+387) 33 23 TJALEBS
32 65. Theres not much space in this friendly den of home
cooking in Baarija, with its two tables on the pavement,
two downstairs and three upstairs. Which seems to make it Vegetarian
all the nicer to enjoy steaks with grilled vegetables, sea-bass Karuzo B-3; B-4, Denetia ikma bb, tel. (+387) 33
and good pasta as the sound of a Bosnian tin-smith tapping 44 46 47/(+387) 63 89 37 93, www.karuzorestaurant.
away down the street fills the Sarajevo night. QOpen 08:00 com. Quirky doesnt even begin to describe this place.
- 24:00. (KM 6-18). JABX The tiny restaurant behind Markale is the creation of Saa
Obuina: owner, host, chef, waiter and DJ. Outfitted to re-
Vinoteka B-3, Skenderija 12, tel. (+387) 33 21 49 96, semble a boat and named after an Italian opera singer, Karuzo
www.vinoteka.ba. If youre a visiting celebrity, Bosnian politi- was the first vegetarian restaurant in Sarajevo, and the menu
cian, foreign diplomat, member of the Sarajevo glitterati or just is a somewhat schizophrenic medley combining vegetarian,
somebody who wants to have a fantastic meal with good wine macrobiotic and Mediterranean dishes, along with sushi. The
in a beautifully-designed restaurant, you go to Vinoteka. Since overall experience of eating here has always reminded us of
opening in 2003 its been a prime contender for best restau- going to your uncles house for dinner - only if your uncle was
rant in town. Set on the south side of the river on three floors, a great cook and vaguely resembled Steven Segal. QOpen
downstairs is a cosy wine-bar, while upstairs on two floors 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
is the full restaurant experience. Choose from an extensive (KM 6 - 35). JABS
and varied menu: favourites such as carrot cream soup with
shrimps, turkey breast with lime and honey, and Caf de Paris Vegehana B-2; B-3, Kemal-begova 4, tel. (+387) 61 59 21
Steak followed by tiramisu are all excellent. Over 100 wines from 23, catering@vegehana.com, vegehana.com. Located on a
Bosnia and abroad make the meal sing. Unmissable. QOpen quiet residential side-street off of Alipaina, this borderline sacre-
12:00 - 24:00. (10-40 KM). PTJALGX ligious vegetarian oasis in the middle of the carnivores paradise
that is Sarajevo (along with the rest of Bosnia) caters to a mixed
Mexican crowd of trendy students and health conscious professionals.
The daily special is a great value offering six different dishes
Caballero B-3; C-3, Didikova 3, tel. (+387) 33 21 (soup, main, two sides, salad and a pastry) for KM10 - you can
02 66. This popular Mexican restaurant, situated up the see the current weeks selection by clicking Jelovnik on their
hill from BBI near the French and Austrian embassies, website. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. (3-10 KM). JAS

24 Cafs
Reconstructed music pavillion in Atmejdan Park

Music Pavillion Caf B-4, Atmejdan Park. By far
Symbol key the best of the lot of cafs in At Mejdan Park along the
southern bank of the river, its also one of our favourites
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted in the entire city. Housed in and around a beautiful wooden
E Live music S Take away bandstand that was originally built in 1913 by the Austro-
Hungarians and destroyed during WWII, it was completely
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled restored in 2004 (ironically with funding from the Austrian
R Internet L Guarded parking government) and is one of the more unique caf experiences
in Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
O Casino J Old Town location J6NB
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi
Torte i to Caf A-1, Grbavika 6, tel. (+387) 61 13
B Outside seating V Home delivery 49 88, www.torte-i-to.ba. One of this cafes many selling
points is that its the only non-smoking caf we know of
in Sarajevo. Aside from its fresh air, its also known for
Caffe del Omar B-3, Trg Sarajeva (BBI Centar), tel. bringing some excellent cheesecake to town. Among their
(+387) 33 56 99 99. A sprawling caf that occupies a various other cakes, pastries and sweets the carrot cake
good chunk of the ground floor at the recently opened is our personal favourite, and the selection of coffee is as
BBI shopping centre, it entices shoppers to take a load good as anywhere else in town. The new branch on the top
off with views of the centres six-floor atrium. Theres also of the BBI shopping centre has a smoking terrace, and
additional seating out on the main square if you prefer a great view of central Sarajevo. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
some fresh air or the kids would just like to splash around PJABS
in the nearby fountain. They do a variety of sandwiches
and cakes, and also have some of the best shakes in Vatra B-4, Ferhadija 4, tel. (+387) 33 222 244, info@
town. The coffees not bad either. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. vatra.ba, http://www.vatra.ba. This trendy caf takes its
PTJAUB name from Sarajevos Eternal Flame (Vjena Vatra), which
burns only a few metres away in memory of the partisans
Gradska Kafana Stari Grad B-4, Obala Kulina Bana who died during World War II. The caf itself is a much less
bb. This old school no-frills caf is sandwiched between sombre affair, and we cant remember ever seeing it not
Baarija and the Obala along the river. Its large sprawling packed with a lively mix of people. The menu has just about
terrace is shaded courtesy of several ancient trees and enough cakes, ice creams and snacks to try something
theres usually a mild breeze blowing up off the river, making different each day of the year - we cant get enough of the
it an ideal place for a coffee on sweltering summer days. bite sized sandwiches - and fire-related quotes to keep you
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. J6NB busy while youre waiting. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.

nightlife 25
A night out in Sarajevo comes no better than an elongated Central Caf B-4, Strosmajerova 1, tel. (+387) 33 20
wander through the citys bar scene, where you will find 04 42, www.centralcafe.co.ba. If youre young, Bosnian,
people drinking coffee, beers, brandies, cocktails, wine, female, probably beautiful and have got a few marks in the
juicesor just mineral water. Sarajevo is very see-and-be- pocket of your hotpants or in your faux-designer handbag,
seen, busy, and the citys notoriously beautiful womenfolk on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night you WILL be seen
dress accordingly. A handy rule-of-thumb is to assume at Central Caf. Youll be drinking Nescafe, cherry-juice or
that a waiter will find you almost as soon as you arrive possibly Bambus, which is Coca-Cola mixed with red wine.
in an establishment: do not order your drinks at the bar. Youll be texting your friends, dancing and catching the
Prices are almost the same everywhere, so think of eye of a lot of hair-gelled, metrosexually-dressed Bosnian
paying about 2 for a large half-litre of beer, about 3-5 males. If, however, you are a visitor to Sarajevo its simply
for a cocktail, and somewhere in between for wine. Its great fun to go along and watch the action. QOpen 08:00
well worth trying the local brandies, made from plums - 03:00. JABX
(slivovitz), grapes(rakiya), walnuts (orahovaca), cherries
(visnavaca,) and apricots (kajsija). Delikatesna Radnja B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10,
tel. (+387) 33 20 88 55, www.delikatesnaradnja.
Bosnia has a healthy drinking culture, and loud, affable, ba. On the edge of the Miljacka, this popular caf boasts
friendly behaviour is the norm. Particularly since the war, good wireless internet, nice sandwiches, draft beer and
this is a city that has been it, seen it and done it, so there a selection of teas and coffees. At weekends, or any time
is nothing you can do that has not been done or seen when its sunny, the outside seating area is packed with a
before. more affluent-looking, stylish crowd, cars double parked,
Sarajevos svelte twenty-something women drinking coffee
and mingling in the sun. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:30
Symbol key - 24:00. PTJABKXW
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Hacienda B-4, Bazardzani 3, tel. (+387) 33 44 19
18, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe.ba. Sarajevos
E Live music S Take away original cocktail bar, this lavish Mexican-themed enterprise
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled in the centre of Baarija is a visual and relaxing retreat
reminiscent of Seville or Guadalajara. Great cocktails such
R Internet L Guarded parking as Caipirinhas and Margaritas start at 4, as nocturnal
O Casino J Old Town location Sarajevo descends to listen to Latin Jazz, Salsa and Cuban
funk, see and be seen, dance and drink. QOpen 10:00
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi - 04:00. JAEBKXW
B Outside seating V Home delivery
Havana B-4, Kundurdiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33 44 70 00.
With its charming staff, high tile-topped tables with wrought-
iron stools, and the floor-length glass windows open wide,
Bars this is a perfect place to watch Sarajevo pass by while you
sip a beer or an espresso. Theres a bar in every town in the
Baghdad B-4, Bazardzani 4, tel. (+387) 33 53 72 world that is themed on that hackneyed old clich, Cuba, and
18/(+387) 33 44 19 18, info@placetobe.ba, www. this is it. But done better than most. Intriguing internal dcor,
placetobe.ba. With its tasselled cushions, ornately- including a fake wall that is actually a large mirror. QOpen
decorated hanging glass lamps, blue and white tiles and 09:00 - 01:30. JBX
conspicuously Moorish feel, this backstreet cocktail bar in
Baarija has become very much in with Sarajevos twenty- Je Club B-4, Zelenih Beretki 14, tel. (+387) 33
something models, designers and party people. Extremely 650 312, info@jez.ba, www.jez.ba. Je is a club, bar,
comfortable. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. JBXW restaurant and summer garden all in one. Come here to enjoy
traditional live music tamburasi (a band playing tamburas - a
Barhana B-4, Djulagina Cikma 8, tel. (+387) 33 36 small stringed guitar) or trubaci (a band playing trumpets)
54 08/(+387) 33 44 77 27, info@barhana.ba, www. and for the ladies there are free cocktails available on
barhana.ba. Set in a cobbled street in Baarija, this Saturdays. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00.
is one of the top five bars in the whole city. The key to its
success: good music, good-looking and cool customers,
mainly Bosnian, easily-affordable drinks, friendly service
and the best of eighties music. It suffices to say that
Jasmina Mameledzija, Sarajevos uber-cool and glamorous
original female DJ, names it as one of her favourite bars.
Go along to see why. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
TJABKX
Barka B-4, Kundurdiluk 10, tel. (+387) 33 537 273,

www.clubbarka.ba. Walk in to Barka and youd think the
Dalmatian coast had just washed up in downtown Sarajevo.
The bar is made from part of an old fishing-boat, nautical
and maritime impedimenta hang from the ceilings and walls,
and theres a faint feeling of being on a permanent holiday.
Efficient staff zip between the busy downstairs and the
quieter snogging lounge upstairs. A garden in summer draws
in the Bosnian diaspora crowd home on holiday. QOpen
08:00 - 03:00. JBX Rock that fiddle!

26 Nightlife
Mash B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 20/I, tel. (+387) 33 48
90 33/(+387) 33 205 490. Much of Sarajevos charm
is that many of its attractions are not apparent, or even
hidden. Were it not for the noise coming from its location on
the first-floor terrace of a nondescript tower-block next to
The National Theatre, you could easily miss this hip, stylish
bar, with seats outside on a terrace. Popular with a younger
crowd, it is often refurbished. Expect it to look like the interior
of a ocean-liner, a spaceship or a drawing-room. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. JBX
Nostalgija Mukevita 10. Like name, like bar. Post-war

melancholia and fond memories of better days seem to
hang over this tiny, somehow charming establishment
set in an alley just off Ferhadija. The owner and barmans
an old Sarajevo DJ and soldier of note, the clientele a
variety of semi-pickled Sarajevo regulars who float on
the lesser fringes of the citys artistic community. Fun,
but not exactly lively. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00.
Opera B - 3, Branilaca Sarajeva 25, tel. (+387)

6 1 1 5 6 9 4 3 , f a x (+ 3 87 ) 3 3 2 2 1 9 4 0, i n f o @
caffebaropera.ba, www.caffebaropera.ba. Located
opposite Mash bar, Operas high stools and tall tables
pull in a twenty-and-thirty something crowd, with good
cocktails and slick service, and occasional live music.
The back room is filled with low-slung sofas, popular with
Someone came to party younger couples and teenagers on dates, all of whom tend
to live at home with their parents. They sip warm Nescaf
and fruit juices and snog their way contentedly through
Kino Bosna B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipaina 19. This the afternoon and early evening. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
theatre-cum-bar is ground zero for Sarajevos alternative JBX
crowd and home to the cheapest beer in town. The bar is
essentially just the lobby of an old cinema - which still shows Pravda B-3, Radieva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15,
a film every once and while and hosts the odd thrash/metal/ pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravdasarajevo.
hardcore concert - but most nights the place is packed and c o m . S a ra j evos b ea u ti fu l l y d e si g n e d b a r o f t h e
the party is forced to spread outside onto the terrace, front moment boasts com for table sofas and high stools
steps and street. In recent years its made its way onto the on which to perch and lounge, and good Croatian and
tourist map, so you probably wont be the only foreigner there. Argentinian wines and snacks. Spot Bosnian President
QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. J6ENBS Haris Silajdzic on sofas next to Bosnian and Serb
models and designers, international diplomats and
L.A. C-2, Merhemia Trg 14, tel. (+387) 61 432 local celebrities. Great fun. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
184/(+387) 61 376 009. L.A. is a new cocktail bar and JA6EBX
organizes events and fashion shows worthy of attention.
Summer time out in the big garden is crowded and lively. Ribica B -3, Kaptol 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 53 69.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PEX Meaning little fish, this is the most original bar in
Sarajevo. Opera, theatre and concer t posters line
Marquee B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 6, tel. (+387) 61 132 the walls, customers like Dejla Glavovi, Bosnias
117, info@ilijas.net, www.marquee.net.tf. Legend has it supermodel face of Ralph Lauren, sip coffee and beers,
that Marquee never closes till the last customer passes out. comfortable stools and plush banquettes with gilded
You know youve had a premium night-out in Sarajevo when mirrors bring to mind a cross between a mini-brasserie
you end up in Marquee, with its rock memorabilia, chatty, from Paris, a Viennese coffee house and a bar. Eccentric
friendly staff and the most-grafittied toilets in south-eastern owner Slobodan plays country rock, folk and blues from
Europe. Bottled beers and cocktails flow, while a mixture of a 13,000-strong song collection. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
leathery old rockers, gorgeous Sarajevo ber-babes, mind- JBX
bogglingly drunk EU peacekeepers and students happily rub
shoulders. Most of them will have forgotten the following day
that they went to Marquee at all. Fantastic. QOpen 00:00 Casinos
- 24:00. JX Coloseum Club A-2, Terezije bb (KSC Skenderija),
tel. (+387) 33 250 860/(+387) 33 250 880, fax
Maral Tito Bihacka 19, tel. (+387) 61 92 30 42. (+387) 33 250 861, coloseum@hit-bih.com.ba,
This used to be a great, very individual bar themed on the www.coloseum-club.com. Enter tainment center Co-
late Marshal Tito, set on the edge of the river in Hrasno a loseum offers relaxed socializing, concerts, entertaining
couple of kilometres outside the centre of town. Now its events and top enjoyment. In the Arena Restaurant you
moved to a new site behind the National Museum, with a can enjoy a romantic dinner, numerous concerts by top
huge outdoor seating area and a collection of machine-guns local ar tsits, theatre plays, fashion shows and dance
displayed on the walls. To find it, just look for the disused performances. Theres also a casio with table games
tanks and abandoned Mi-17 Helicopter gunship on the grass and slot machines and a large conference room for
behind the National Museum. Its next to them. QOpen business events and meetings. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00.
10:00 - 24:00. POJHAULEBKX

Nightlife 27
Clubs and other beveragesof good quality. When there is a live

band, its especially good fun! QOpen 09:00 - 03:00.
Aqua Disco Mali Kiseljak 8, Ilida, tel. (+387) 33
625 500. A big-stage disco with DJs and live music. Its Cheers B-4, Muvekita 4, tel. (+387) 62 476 476/(+387)
part of a swimming-pool complex, where some like to mix, 62 622 210, denis_stojnec@hotmail.de. A great place
swimming and dancing. Great for the summer time! Q to start a night out. The wood and brick interior and
PEBXC excellent service provide an environment for enjoyment
with your friends and collegues. They offer a wide choice
Buddha Bar B-3, Radieva 10, tel. (+387) 61 172 of beer, whiskeys, and alcoholic beverages, with quality live
894, dandza@info.ba. Dancing and drinking club with music and themed entertainment. QOpen 08:00 - 05:00.
great selection of seventies and eighties music and friendly PJEK
bar-staff. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. JX
City Pub B-4, Despiceva bb, tel. (+387) 33 209 789,
Fis B-3, Musala bb, tel. (+387) 33 21 65 19, info@ www.citypub.co.ba. Sarajevos most efficient waiters
bock.ba, www.bock.ba. Compact dancing club with black make everybody welcome at this jolly, popular city-centre
and white interior dcor and a hedonistic, engagingly chaotic pub, from uber-pretty university girls, tourists, off-duty
Bosnian clientele. Free entry. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. For European peacekeepers, resident internationals, Bosnian
more info visit: www.myspace.com/bocksarajevo. EX businessmen, models and artists. A resident DJ turns out
everything from David Bowie to The Beach Boys to FatBoy
The Club B-3, Marala Tito 7, tel. (+387) 33 550 Slim. A half-litre of Sarajevsko or Tuborg will set you back
550/(+387) 33 208 288, fax (+387) 33 208 288, 1.5, cocktails 3. Boisterous. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30.
theclub.sarajevo@gmail.com, www.theclub.ba. Large, YABX
classy nightclub with live music, a good restaurant and
fantastic service. Free entry. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Drinks Guinness Pub B-4, Ferhadija 28, tel. (+387) 61 72
from KM 3-6. PAEBKX 22 60. At first appearance this joint looks more like an
alleyway with a makeshift bar at the end of it than a proper
Pubs pub, but there are actually several sprawling cellar-type
rooms downstairs and the place would be pleasant enough
Celtic Pub B-4, Ferhadija 12 (pasa), tel. (+387) 61 if not for the excruciatingly bad vocal techno music they tend
712 985/(+387) 61 916 565. One of the only urban to blast. However, its impossible to recommend a place
hangouts in Sarajevo. In Celtic Pub you will feel the traditional called Guinness Pub when - and we cant stress this enough
Celtic spirit of the Bosnian way that guarantees a special - they dont have any Guinness! No draught, no bottles, no
pleasure for every guest. Try out the large selection of cans, nothing. Simply unforgiveable. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
whiskies they have on offer, let alone the selection of beer PJAEB

28 What to see
Downtown Sarajevo nestled amongst the rolling hills
One of the beauties of Sarajevo is that it is small, making ping along, filled with sightseers enjoying the ride. Once
it easy to orientate yourself and start feeling at home as you get back to the riverside, have coffee on the terrace
soon as you arrive. We make a few suggestions below at Caf Prestige. If youre feeling slightly more energetic,
about things to see and do in and around town, but youll stroll along the Miljacka to Kozja uprija (Goat Bridge),
quickly realise how much of the pleasure in a visit to Sa- an Ottoman-era structure where trading caravans once
rajevo is gained by simply wandering around and having a crossed and local pilgrims set off for Mecca. The bridge
look at the wealth of interesting sights that lie around you. itself is an impressive structure and the more romanti-
cally-minded visitor will get a kick out of imagining the
Walk down the boulevard called Vilsonovo Setaliste under people, pack animals and products that have traversed
the lime trees and watch the river Miljacka at dusk. En- it over the centuries. The easy flat walk along the river
trancing. The best way to get there is to take a taxi to the makes for a pleasant morning or afternoon excursion and,
Vrbanja Bridge, and walk along the north side of the river if you need to revive yourself for the wander back to town,
all the way to Grbavica. you can get a coffee or cool drink at the nearby caf. Just
follow the riverside path, keeping the water to your right on
There has been much reconstruction and repairing done in your way out to the bridge, and you cant go wrong. Hire a
recent years and the physical scars of the war are becom- car or take a taxi and drive up to Mount Bjelanica outside
ing less and less visible. But the emotional ones remain Sarajevo. The route takes you up Mount Igman where war-
for many: go to any of the three huge cemeteries in Ciglane time mines still lurk in the forests at the side of the road.
and notice how many of the graves are dated between At Bjelanica have lunch at the Srebrna Lisica restaurant
1992-1995. Sit and enjoy the peace and quiet and reflect - the name means Silver Fox - and watch the fantastic
on how good ones lot in life actually is. The best way to mountain scenery and the ski slopes where some of the
get there is to walk from Marshal Tito away from the Eter- 1984 Olympic events were held.
nal Flame in the city centre, follow the tram-lines, and turn
right up Alipaina after about a kilometre. The cemeteries No weekend in Sarajevo or visit to Bosnia would be
will be laid out on your right after a ten-minute walk. complete without taking a 45-minute drive to the beautiful
mountain forests and countryside of Romanija, which lies
Take a taxi or tram out to Ilida and walk down the avenue outside the town of Sokolac north-east of Sarajevo. Dont
under the plane trees that leads to the hot springs. Take forget to visit Sokolac itself: a visit to Caf Victoria is a
care not to get run over by the horses and carriages clop- must. A hidden treat.

What to see 29
National Museum B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 3, tel.

Galleries (+387) 33 66 80 26/(+387) 33 66 80 27, fax (+387)
National Gallery of BiH B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8, 33 26 27 10, z.muzej@zemaljskimuzej.ba, www.
tel. (+387) 33 26 65 50. Located near the Orthodox zemaljskimuzej.ba. Located next to the Historical Museum
Cathedral, the nations national gallery provides a fine and old-fashioned in the nicest possible way, the National
introduction to the eclectic work of Bosnias artists, both Museum covers a lot of ground in the three buildings open
contemporary and those representing the countrys rich to the public. Permanent exhibitions examine the life and
artistic traditions from the past. Photography, sculpture, history of Bosnias inhabitants - animal, vegetable and
paintings and installations are all represented in a mineral - under the Departments of Archaeology, Ethnology
collection that has been curated around color themes and and Natural History. The oldest cultural institution in BiH,
schemes. Entry to the gallery is free but some coins or a the museum has its fair share of dioramas and insects in
note dropped into the collection boxes dotted throughout cases but these seem to add to its charm. And, temporary
will help the gallery continue to operate, and also acquire exhibitions such as the one on hand-made Bosnian womens
and exhibit the artworks of a country well-known for its shirts that was showing at the time of writing demonstrate
artists. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tue-Sat that the museum is also able to mount contemporary,
12:00-20:00, closed Sun & Mon atmospheric and well thought out exhibitions that would not
be out of place in any of the worlds leading institutions. When
Museums you add in treasures such as some beautiful Roman mosaics
and the world famous 14th century Sarajevo Haggadah you
Brusa Bezistan B-4, Baarija, tel. (+387) 33 have a museum well worth a visit and where your small entry
239 590, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. This Ottoman- fee (5 KM) will help to keep it operating. If the stuffed bears
era covered market with its six large domes is one of and skewered bugs start to get to you, escape out into the
Baarijas most recognisable buildings. Designed by Botanical Gardens where the hundreds of trees and other
Rustem Pasha, Grand Vizier to Suleiman the Great, in plants from around the globe provide a living, breathing lung
1551 the structure long served as the citys centre of in the centre of the complex. Q Tue-Fri 10:00-15:00, Sun
trade and commerce. It was heavily damaged during the 10:00-14:00, closed Mon & Sat Admission: 5 KM.
siege, but has since been restored and today its part
of the Museum of Sarajevo with a permanent exhibition
spanning all the way from antiquity through to the end of
the Austro-Hungarian empire. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
Around Sarajevo
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Despi House (Despia Kua) B-4, Despieva

2, tel. (+387) 33 475 740, www.muzejsarajeva.ba.
Originally built during the 17th century, the house belonged
to a wealthy Orthodox family of traders and art patrons
who are credited with organising Sarajevos first theatre
performances. Nowadays the quaint pink and white building
along Obala Kulina Bana is part of the Museum of Sarajevo
and serves as a well-preserved cultural museum whose
friendly staff seem more than happy to give impromptu
history lesson or even tours. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Historical Museum of BiH B-1; B-2, Zmaja od

Bosne 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 04 18, histmuz@bih.net.
ba. It is horribly ironic but also authentic that a museum Lukomir The inhabitants of Lukomir, a stone built
such as this, badly damaged during the siege, should now village on the slopes of Bjelasnica mountain, live the
house the permanent exhibtion Surrounded Sarajevo high life - located at nearly 1500 metres the town
which looks at the impact of the nearly four years of is the highest inhabited settlement in Bosnia. Cut
war on the citys citizens.Downstairs is an exhibition on off for much of the winter, Lukomir boasts a newly
the history of Bosnia and Herzegovina from the earliest built lodge for those wanting to spend a few days
recorded mentions through to the Communist era but it exploring nearby sights such as the 800-metre deep
is the upstairs that is most likely to attract and repel, Rakitnica Canyon and the Studeno Polje Valley. But it
move and educate the visitor to Sarajevo. Here, in a is age that makes Lukomir of most interest, for here
non-partisan or judgemental fashion, the story of the you can get a glimpse into life as it was largely lived
siege is told through photographs and artefacts, from hundreds of years ago. Situated about 90 minutes
hand-made heating, cooking and fighting implements drive away from Sarajevo, Lukomir can be reached
to aid items that came in from abroad. Most harrowing by car, organised tour or bus.
perhaps are the images of and by children, trying to live
a normal childhood in the most abnormal of conditions Visoko Pyramids A worldwide jury of archaeologists
- few visitors could fail to be moved by the bloodstained is still out when it comes to the question of whether
school satchels and workbooks that are the legacy of a these large mounds of mystery in the countryside some
shell-strike on a lesson in progress. Like many cultural 30km north of Sarajevo were made by the hands of man
institutions in BiH the museum struggles for funds so the or constructed by mother nature - although nature is
modest 4 KM entry fee you pay will do a little to help and currently dominating the debate. Either way, the Visoko
in return provide an experience you are not likely to forget. pyramids make for an interesting day trip. Visoko means
Permanent Exhibits: Sarajevo under Siege, B&H Through high place and visitors can enjoy the alpine scenery of
Centuries. Q Tue-Fri 09:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-13:00, the region while pondering the pyramid puzzle.
closed Mon 4 KM.

30 What to see
Sights
Avaz Tower B-1; B-2; C-2, Tesanjska 24b. Its a case
of I can see my hotel from up here when you are standing
on the observation deck of the Avaz Twist Tower. Sarajevo is
quite a sight when viewed from 172 metres up the twister
as this column of smoky blue glass is known. Situated near
the train station in Marin Dvor, and thats enough directions
as its hard to miss, the lookout floor, with both indoor and
outdoor areas, provides stunning views of the city below and
the mountains fading off in the distance. One floor down is a
cafe-bar where you can drink in a hot or cold beverage with
the view. Open every day from 8:00 until 23:00 the tower
offers a unique twist on seeing Sarajevo and it only costs a
mark to take the fast trip to the top.
Baarija B-5; B-4, . Get used to pronouncing the name

Baarija (Bosh-CHAR-shee-ya) as this mouthful of letters
is not only the heart and soul of Sarajevo and a striking
reminder of its Ottoman past, but also home to - or at least
Sarajevo Museum 1878-1918 B-4, Zelenih Beretki the point of reference for - a majority of the citys hotels,
1, tel. (+387) 33 533 288, info@muzejsarajeva.ba, restaurants, sights and nightspots. While the area was the
www.muzejsarajeva.ba. Located on the spot where centre of trade and commerce during the Ottomans lengthy
Gavrilo Princip assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand rule (the name itself means central market in English),
- the heir the Austro-Hungarian throne and namesake nowadays its rebuilt lanes are packed with a mix of locals,
of at least one modestly successful Scottish rock band independent travellers and tour groups virtually around
- which of course led to a declaration of war on Serbia the clock: eating, shopping, drinking or just soaking up the
and the beginning of World War I. Opened in 2007 after atmosphere during an evening stroll.
extensive renovations, the well-designed, visitor-friendly
museum details the years of Austro-Hungarian rule in Catholic Cathedral (Katedrala Srca Isusova)
Sarajevo and the effects it had on the city, from political B-4, Ferhadija bb. The Cathedral of Jesus Heart is the
and administrative changes to art and architecture, and largest church in the country, and an impressive fixture of
everything in between. Q Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat Sarajevos skyline. Well restored after being heavily damaged
10:00-15:00, Closed Sun. From 15 Oct - 14 Apr closes at in the war, it was built in 1889 by Josip Vancas, the same
16:00 on weekdays. architect who designed the post office. Outside, the steps
provide a popular meeting and resting place. Inside, with
Tunnel Museum Tuneli 1, Ilida, tel. (+387) 33 62 the pastel blue and cream walls and some beautiful stained
85 91. It might be small, but its definitely sincere - few glass, busy Ferhadija seems a hundred miles and a hundred
museums move visitors to tears but the Tunnel Museum years away. The sense of peace so often found in places of
packs a powerful punch. Dug during the war, the tunnel worship permeates the cathedral so if you enter make sure
linked the besieged city to the free zone beyond the airport, your cell phone is firmly switched to off.
providing a life and supply line through which passed the
aged and the injured, food and fuel, soldiers and cigarettes. Eternal Flame B-3, Marala Tita. At the junction of
Today, only about 20 metres of the original 700 metre length Ferhadija and Marsala Titova streets, the Eternal Flame
is accessible but even so crouching your way through the dim, and cupola behind it commemorates the partisans who
dank passage gives a tiny taste of how a full-on crossing may fought in WWII. Its nice, and in a focal part of town, but it
have felt. The museum proper is inside one of the two houses needs a brush-and-scrub, a bit of doing-up and a couple
which provided the entry/exit points. In addition to wartime of smartly-uniformed police officers on guard duty to
memorabilia, visitors can view video footage of the siege give tough and short shrift to the tedious Roma children
and the tunnels construction and operation. Usually the that beg nearby.
video plays to a pin-drop silence interrupted only by intakes
of breath as visitors watch shells shoot across the Sarajevo
sky and slam into apartment blocks, the National Library
ablaze, and soldiers and civilians alike making their way
through this dirt and timber lifesaver. Moving, memorable,
not to be missed.
Parks
Vrelo Bosne Ilida. A lush green oasis at the source of
the River Bosne, the park may only be 12km southwest
of the city centre in the suburb of Ilida, but its a world
away from the hustle and bustle of Sarajevo. Even without
the urban contrast its quite an idyllic place with swans,
waterfalls, Austro-Hungarian palaces and horse-drawn
carriages all competing for attention, and if youre there on
a Saturday youre more likely than not to see at least one
wedding party. Its easily combined with a trip to the Tunnel
Museum, and there are several outdoor cafs selling drinks
and lights snacks. Catholic Cathedral

What to see 31
monuments and their own safety. Also on the site are a

chapel, a fountain and several monuments dedicated to
the victims of fascism. Though it can be walked to and
one can get relatively close by public transport, a taxi
might be the easiest way for visitors who dont fancy the
steep uphill climb.
Jewish Museum B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije bb,

tel. (+387) 33 21 55 32/(+387) 33 53 56 88, fax
(+387) 33 47 57 49, kontakt@muzejsarajeva.ba,
www.muzejsarajeva.ba. The bare stone walls and timber
floors of this museum, located in a Sarajevo synagogue
built in 1581, provide an aesthetically pleasing space for a
small but well designed and laid out museum dedicated to
the citys long Jewish history. Along with religious artifacts
the museum displays personal and professional objects
associated with notable local writers, artists, composers
and humanitarian workers. On the upper floor the displays
turn their attention to one of the darkest periods in
human history. The 12000 Jewish Bosnian victims of the
Holocaust are commemorated in a large book bearing
their names while photographs, documents and items
such as concentration camp clothing provide the faces
behind these names and a testament to their suffering and
the Jewish communitys ultimate survival. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat.
Latin Bridge B- 4, Obala Kulina Bana. The name

Latinska uprija may not mean much to the casual visitor
to Sarajevo but mention Franz Ferdinand and World War
I to anyone who did modern history in high school and the
penny will drop. Dating from 1798 the structure is a fine
example of Ottoman bridge design in itself, but thats not
why it is world-famous. Latinska uprija is best-known as
Ghazi Husrev-beg the place where the heir to the Austrian throne, Archduke
Franz Ferdinand, and his pregnant wife were assassinated
Ghazi Husrev-beg B-4, Veliki Sarai, tel. (+387) on 28 June 1914 by a Bosnian Serb nationalist, Gavrilo
33 53 43 75, vakuf-gazi@lsinter.net, www.vakuf- Princip. Beyond a plaque at the site and a small museum
gazi.ba. The Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque was built by the nearby little fuss is made of its notoriety but standing here
famous Ottoman architect Mirnar Sinan and is considered you are at the place where Princip fired his pistol and where
to be one of the most important Islamic buildings in the rest, as they say, is history.
Bosnia. Gazi Husrev-beg had it constructed by the
Persian architect in an early Istanbul style in 1531. The
45m-high minaret towers over the 26m-high dome and
the surrounding area. The grounds include an abdest
hana, or washing room, a wooden sadrvan (fountain), a
mekteb, or primary school, and a muvekithana, or prayer
callers home. To the left are two elaborate 16th century
buildings. The large red house in the enclosed garden
behind the Careva mosque was the official residence of
the Ottoman rulers of Bosnia, and is also the place where
the heavily wounded Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his
wife were brought, and died, after they had been shot by
Gavrilo Princip in 1914.
Jewish Cemetary A-4. Located on the front-line during

the war this historic cemetery was severely damaged
during that time and now faces an ever-present threat
from landslides due to its steep hillside location. Ongoing
rescue and restoration work has seen some of the 3800+
tombstones repaired but much remains to be done and
about 95% of the stones are still damaged. On the site,
located in the Kovaii-Debelo Brdo area and not far above
the transit road, visitors can wander through one of the
largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe. Containing graves
from the 16th century onwards, the cemetery is an integral
part of Jewish history in the region and an atmospheric
and interesting place for the casual visitor though those
wandering through should be aware that the site is in
poor condition and be careful of both the gravestones and The pseudo-Moorish Vijenica

32 What to see
Morica Han B-4, Saraci 77. Morica Han dates from
1551 and is the best preserved inn in Sarajevo. Its beautiful
cobbled courtyard is surrounded by old stables and store
houses and lodging rooms upstairs. Now home to a
restaurant and a youth organisation. There is also a carpet
shop with stacks of rugs where stables used to be. Youre
free to stroll around, have a coffee or something to eat, or
buy a beautiful carpet.
National Library B-4, Mustaj-pasin mejdan, tel.

(+387) 33 275 301, fax (+387) 33 218 431, nubbih@
nub.ba, www.nub.ba. The National Library, once the town
hall and now called Vijecnica, was constructed by Alexander
Wittek in 1896. On 25 August 1992 a shell fired from the
lines of the Serbian forces besieging Sarajevo wiped out a
large part of the Bosnian literary heritage that was kept in
the building - over two million books and documents went
up in flames. As the plaque outside cautions, Do not forget,
remember and warn! Restoration work is still ongoing and
Vijecnica is almost entirely boarded-up, although a stroll
around the outside of this battered but still beautiful building
is well worth the walk and art exhibitions are held from time
to time in the shattered interior.
Orthodox Cathedral B-4, Zelenih Beretki bb. Inside

the large, wonderfully cool and calming interior of the
Church of the Most Holy Mother of God, which dates from
1868, are large iconostases holding icons made in Russia,
installed here by Russian masons sent by Tsar Alexander Get ready to haggle
II. As a proof of religious tolerance, Sultan Abdul Aziz, and
the Prince of Serbia donated 500 gold ducats towards the Orthodox Church B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije
construction of the building. Serb forces shot up their own 59. Sitting between the mosques is the ancient Serbian
church during the war and the Greek government is now Orthodox church of St. Michael the Archangel, which dates
involved in helping restore the damage. Once you feel that from medieval times: the foundations and the unusual
youve soaked up enough of the spiritual you can wander arcade structures are even early Christian, from the 5th and
outside this imposing multi-domed, pale mustard-colored 6th century. A tad unprepossessing outside, the interior is
building and watch the men playing chess on the giant board beautiful with gilded icons and a balcony lit by candles and
just outside on the square. low light, and the scent of incense in the air. Inside glass
cases are a few anatomical relics of saints such as bones.
The current structure that dates from 1740 was ironically
badly damaged by Serb shells during the siege.
Sebilj B-4, . If you are already wondering how soon you can
make a return visit to Sarajevo take a drink from the public
fountain in Sebilj square and, according to local legend,
you wont stay away for long. Built in 1891 from a design
by Czech architect Alexander Wittek, the stone and timber
Moorish-style fountain is the centerpiece of the main square
in the old town. You can stroll between the restaurants and
souvenir shops and watch the pigeons that give the square
its better-known name descend on anyone kindly or foolhardy
enough to pay a mark for a cup of corn - literally birdfeed for
bird food. And if you want a cup of real Bosnian coffee, here
is the place to get both it and a ringside seat for watching
Sarajevo stroll by.
Svrzos House C-4, Glodina 8, tel. (+387) 33 53 52

64. Svrzos House reflects the lifestyle of a wealthy Muslim
family lifestyle during the time of the Ottoman Empire. Visitors
can inspect the separate living quarters of the men, women
and servants and note the spacious comfort of the rooms
used for receiving and entertaining guests. The house is in
an extremely well-preserved condition, especially considering
that it is constructed completely from wood, a building
material not commonly used in the region in relatively modern
times. A quiet courtyard would have provided the occupants
with a pleasant and private outdoor sitting area, as it now
does for the visitor, but it is the interior that provides the
most interest. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Orthodox Cathedral Closed Sun.

getting around 33
Public transport scheduled bus service to the centre so your best bets are
to either prearrange a transfer through your hotel or grab a
Gras Public Transport Operator umurija 4, tel. cab - there are usually quite a few lined up outside and the
(+387) 33 20 38 19/(+387) 33 29 33 33, fax (+387) 12km trip will cost about 20-25 KM (10-12.50). As with all
33 45 21 86, gras@gras.co.ba, www.gras.co.ba. The international airports, its not unheard of for taxi drivers to
main bus, tram and troley city operator is the company GRAS overcharge for a ride into town, especially if youre a foreigner
. You can buy city bus tickets at almost any news stand in - make sure the metre is switched on before you depart.
the Sarajevo. The first ride is at 05:00 and the last at 01:00
a.m. Detail schedule is available in their office or on their web
page. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. The ticket price is KM 1.60 from Public Transport
kiosks or KM 2 on the bus or trams. Daily tickets cost KM
5.40, weekly KM 12 and monthly KM 54. Bus Lines
14 Dom Armije - Podhrastovi

Bus travel 15 Marin Dvor - Bua potok
Both of Sarajevos bus stations are busy places, especially 15B Otoka - Bua potok
the main one near the train station which serves the 16 Dom Armije - Bare
Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and most international 16A Dom Armije - Koevsko brdo II
destinations. 16B Dom Armije - Koevsko brdo
17 Dom Armije - Breka
If you arrive here you can get a tram (number 1) or bus into 17B Dom Armije - Breka II
the centre or grab a cab for around 5-6KM. There is also an 18 Drvenija - Pofalii
ATM here and a few cafes and bars nearby if the journey has 20 Park - Jagomir
been long, gruelling or both. 20A Park - Jezero20B Park - ip
21 Sutjeska - Vogoa
If you are coming from or heading to a destination in the 21A Sutjeska - Maleii
Republika Srpska, Serbia proper or Montenegro you will 22 Sutjeska - Ilija - Ljeevo
arrive at or depart from Lukavica (aka Istochno Sarajevo) 22A Stup - Vogoa
bus station in east Sarajevo. This station is on the fringes 23 Marin Dvor - Rajlovac
of the city and you can either get a taxi into town (about 23A Marin Dvor - Reljevo dom
25KM) or a bus from the local terminal which is about a 23C Otoka - Boljakov potok
200 metre walk from the station. Cash can be obtained from 26 Stup - Dobroevii - Ahatovii
the machine at the nearby TOM shopping centre. Signage 27 Ilida - Hrasnica
at this bus station is predominately in Cyrillic script. If you 27A Ilida - Sokolovii
are getting a taxi to the bus station make sure your driver 27B Ilida - Kovai (Hrasnica)
knows which one you want - you can do this by explaining 28 Ilida - Rakovica - Kobiljaa
your destination to him. 30 Ilida - Hadii
31 Nedarii - Dobrinja
Main Bus Station Put ivota 8, tel. (+387) 33 213 31E Vijenica - Dobrinja
100/(+387) 33 213 010, fax (+387) 33 445 442, cts- 32 Ilida - Butmir
bus@pksa.com.ba, www.centrotrans.com. The main bus 33 Ilida - Tarin - Vukovii
operator is Centrotrans at the bus station. 34 Marin Dvor - Kiseljak
35 Sutjeska - Bakii
36 Nedarii - Naselje Aerodrom
Train travel 37 Grbavica - Lukavica - Ilida
Bosnias rail infrastructure was badly damaged during the 41 Drvenija - Gornji Veleii
war and has yet to return to pre-war levels of operation. 41A Drvenija - Donji Veleii
Most international visitors arriving by train will be coming 42 Otoka - Dobrinja43 Ilida - Osijek
from Zagreb or Budapest on the daily trains which arrive at 44 Franje Rakog - Bjelanica
18:30 and 06:25 respectively. There is also a train to and 45 Ilida - Dejii
from Ploe on the southern coast of Croatia which is worth 46 Ilida - Vlakovo
looking into as the journey, via Mostar, is very scenic. Sa- 47 Ilida - Trnovo
rajevos train station is right near the bus station and you 48 Ilida - Delijai
can get into the heart of town via a bus, tram or 5 - 6KM
taxi ride. There is no ATM at the station but there is one Tram Lines
about 200 metres away at the bus station - just turn right
when you come out of the station, go around and past the 1 eljeznika stanica - Baarija
main post office and the bus station is straight ahead. 2 engi vila - Baarija
3 Ilida - Baarija
Train Station Sarajevo Put ivota 2, tel. (+387) 33 65 4 eljeznika stanica - Ilida
53 30. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 5 Nedarii - Baarija
6 Ilida - Skenderija
7 Nedarii - Skenderija
Air travel
Sarajevo airport (International Airport Butmir) is small and Trolley Lines
rarely too busy, helping it avoid the long baggage, immigration
and customs queues that plague many of Europes other 101 Otoka - Drvenija
capital city airports. It has the facilities found at most airports 103 Dobrinja - Drvenija
including tourist information and currency exchange, a bar 104 Alipaino Polje - Drvenija
and cafe, an ATM and a souvenir shop. There is no regular

34 getting around
Adria Airways Ferhadija 23/2, tel. (+387) 33 23 21
Local bus schedule 25/(+387) 33 46 43 31, fax (+387) 33 23 36 92, adr.
From Sarajevo To Sarajevo sarajevo@adria.si, www.adria.si. The national Slovenian
airline flies regularly to Sarajevo. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. A
First Last City First Last # / day
Austrian Airlines Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33
05:00 23:30 Banja 05:00 17:00 6 28 92 42/(+387) 33 45 12 13, fax (+387) 33 45 12
Luka
13, office.sjj@aua.com, www.aua.com. Austrian Airways
07:30 22:00 Biha 07:30 22:00 3-4 operates flights from Vienna to Sarajevo. The Austrian airport
05:00 05:00 Bijeljina 16:10 16:10 1 office also represents Lufthansa. QOpen 05:30 - 17:00.
14:30 14:30 Bosanska 22:30 22:30 1 Closed Sun. A
Dubica BH Airlines Branilaca grada broj 15, tel./fax (+387)
12:15 12:15 Bosanski 05:54 05:54 1 33 55 01 26, tel. (+387) 33 55 01 25, agencija@
Brod bhairlines.ba, www.airbosna.ba. The national airline
06:30 15:35 Brko 05:00 15:00 3 carrier of Bosnia & Herzegovina. Q A
06:45 20:45 Breza 05:45 19:20 10-22 Butmir International Airport Kurta Schorka 36, tel.
10:00 19:00 Bugojno 05:45 17:30 3-4 (+387) 33 28 91 00, www.sarajevo-airport.ba. QOpen
10:30 14:30 Busovaa 06:40 12:15 2 06:30 - 22:00. AGKX
15:30 15:30 Cazin 23:50 23:50 1 Croatia Airlines Kranjevieva 4/I, tel. (+387) 33 66
61 23/(+387) 33 25 86 00, fax (+387) 33 258 600,
10:00 10:00 apljina 17:30 17:30 1
sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr, www.croatiaairlines.hr. The
07:20 07:20 eli 07:00 07:00 1 national airline of Croatia. Operates flights to Sarajevo from
07:45 18:30 Derventa 07:45 15:45 2 Zagreb. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
07:45 18:30 Doboj 08.30 16:30 2 Lufthansa Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 28 92
07:30 22:00 Donji 06:05 01:40 9 - 10 42/(+387) 33 45 12 13, www.lufthansa.de. The German
Vakuf airline operates services from Koln, Stuttgart, Munchen and
05:30 19:55 Fojnica 05:30 19:30 8 Frankfurt to Sarajevo. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
08:00 08:00 Gorade 16:30 16:30 1 Malev Zelenih beretki 6, tel. (+387) 33 21 62
08:30 08:30 Gorade 14:30 14:30 1 40/(+387) 33 47 32 01, fax (+387) 33 46 71 05,
14:00 14:00 Gornji 06:35 06:35 1 sarajevo@malev.hu, www.malev.hu. The national
Rahii Hungarian airline operates services from Budapest to
08:30 17:00 Gradaac 05:30 13:45 2 Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 15:30.
10:00 10:00 Hadii 20:15 20:15 1
Turkish Airlines Kulovica 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 29
38/(+387) 33 46 57 31, fax (+387) 33 47 03 31, www.
10:00 10:00 Jablanica 19:05 19:05 1 thy.com. The Turkish airline operates regular services from
07:30 22:00 Jajce 07:10 00:50 6 Instanbul to Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
05:45 20:50 Kakanj 05:00 20:00 13-22
Kiseljak
05:30
07:30
20:50
22:00 Klju
06:00
06:00
20:00
23:40
8-13
4
Car rental
10:00 10:00 Konjic 19:30 19:30 1 Avis Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 46 99 33/(+387)
12:15 14:30 Maglaj 03:20 07:45 2 33 289 278, fax (+387) 33 474 055, info@avis.ba,
06:00 17:00 Mostar 06:00 18:15 8-11 www.avis.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. A
CITO Dzemala Bijedica 185 - Hotel Radon Plaza, tel.
10:00 10:00 Neum 16:30 16:30 1
(+387) 33 76 98 90/(+387) 63 83 00 14, fax (+387)
13:00 13:00 Novi 07:10 07:10 1 33 76 98 91, info@cito.ba, www.cito.ba. QOpen 09:00
Travnik
- 17:00.
05:00 20:00 Olovo 06:10 18:45 15-16 Europcar Bulevar Mese Selimovica 16, tel. (+387)
10:00 14:00 Pale 11:00 15:00 2 33 76 03 60, fax (+387) 33 76 03 61, reservation@
00:30 00:30 Prijedor 05:30 05:30 1 europcar.ba, www.europcar.ba. QOpen 09:00
07:45 18:30 Prijedor 05:30 05:30 1-2 - 17:00. .
07:45 18:30 Prnjavor 07:15 15:15 2 Rabbit Akifa eremeta 58, tel. (+387) 62 22 99
07:00 15:50 Renovica 06:00 15:50 2 11/(+387) 61 96 62 93, info@rabbit.ba, www.rabbit.
15:30 15:30 Sanski 05:00 05:00 1 ba. Rents Smart cars from its location near the airport.
Most Virtus Muvekita 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 36 26/(+387)
07:10 07:10 Srebrenica 16:30 16:30 1 33 22 36 26, fehim@virtus.ba, www.virtusrent.ba.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
14:30 17:00 Stolac 06:10 11:10 2
07:00 17:15 Teanj 06:30 15:30 3
07:30 22:00 Travnik 02:45 06:50 11-12
05:00 18:00 Tuzla 04:00 18:00 14-15
05:00 18:00 05:30 18:00 13
06:45 20:45 Vare 05:30 18:45 7-8
15:30 15:30 Velika 23:00 23:00 1
Kladua
06:00 21:30 Visoko 05:30 20:30 11-23
07:30 22:00 Vitez 07:10 19:20 7-11
05:30 21:00 Zenica 06:00 20:30 10-21
05:40 15:30 Zvornik 06:00 16:45 3
12:15 14:30 epe 03:40 07:30 2

getting around 35
Local train schedule

From Sarajevo To Sarajevo
First Last City First Last # /

day
06:45 18:18 Baevi 07:26 18:28 2
10:27 21:20 Banja Luka 13:15 01:24 2
07:10 19:30 Blauj 06:24 18:36 3
10:27 21:20 Bosanski 11:44 23:51 2
novi
07:14 07:14 Bosanski 16:48 16:48 1
amac
06:45 19:30 Bradina 05:44 20:11 2-3
06:45 18:18 apljina 7:00 18:02 2
06:45 18:18 elebiI 08:43 19:40 2
10:27 21:20 elinac 13:29 01:38 2
07:14 21:20 Doboj 03:26 18:14 3
04:40 19:11 Dobrinje 05:58 20:07 6
10:27 21:20 Dragalovci 14:29 02:42 2
06:45 18:18 Drenica 08:00 19:02 2
04:40 19:11 Drivua 05:24 15:38 5
07:10 19:30 Grad 05:34 17:38 3
06:45 19:30 Hadii 06:15 20:39 2-3
06:45 18:18 Jablanica 05:49 19:26 2-6
07:14 21:20 Kakanj 05:28 20:17 3
06:45 19:30 Konjic 05:14 19:47 2-3
06:45 18:18 Kruevii 07:11 18:13 2
04:40 19:11 Lava 05:32 15:46 5
Car travel 07:14 21:20 Maglaj 03:54 18:42 3
Sarajevos roads are much improved from a few years ago 07:14 07:14 Modria 17:09 17:09 1
but this in turn may have contributed to the ever-increas-
ing volume of traffic. Coming in and out of town is fairly 04:40 19:11 Modrinje 05:40 15:54 5
straightforward with good signposting to the Centar but 06:45 18:18 Mostar 07:38 18:40 2
once in the heart of town non-local drivers need to con- 10:27 21:20 Omarska 12:36 00:45 2
tend with narrow streets, lots of one-way and No Entry 06:45 18:18 Ostroac 08:36 19:33 2
roads and the local drivers, who tend to be impatient
07:10 19:30 Ovari 05:24 17:28 3
behind the wheel and dont mind using their horn to give a
blast to anyone too slow to respond to a changed traffic 06:45 19:30 Pazari 06:06 20:31 2-3
signal. Those used to congested inner-cities wont find it 04:40 21:20 Podlugovi 05:52 20:41 3-5
too much of a problem but the more hesitant may be best 10:27 21:20 Prijedor 18:18 00:26 2
to leave the car parked at or near their hotel and use pub-
04:40 19:11 Rajlovac 06:40 20:49 5
lic transport, taxis and foot-power for getting around, all of
which are less stressful and will give you the opportunity 07:10 19:30 Ratelica 05:55 17:59 3
to see and experience a lot more than if you are gripping 04:40 19:11 Semizovac 06:30 20:39 5
the wheel and gritting your teeth. This also gets rid of the 21:20 21:20 Stanari 02:49 02:49 1
problem of finding somewhere to park in the car-crowded 06:45 18:18 urmanici 07:09 18:11 2
centre. Drivers are required by law to have their headlights
on at all times. This is mainly for safety reasons and when 10:27 21:20 Ukrina 14:02 02:19 2
you enter one of Bosnias long tunnels youll be glad it is 04:40 21:20 Visoko 05:45 20:34 3-6
so. Another safety factor to bear in mind is that roads can 07:14 21:20 Zavidovii 04:15 19:03 3
be hazardous during the winters, with ice, fog and snow 04:40 21:20 Zenica 05:02 19:51 3-5
providing a challenge to all but the most experienced of
mountainous terrain in winter drivers. 07:14 21:20 epe 16:11 04:26 3
06:45 18:18 itomislii 07:17 18:19 2
Taxis
Do not be surprised with the state of some of the cars you
get into. There is no standard for vehicles that can be used
as taxis in Sarajevo. Some of the taxi drivers can be very
nice and polite but a large number of them are not. Dont clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com
be surprised if your taxi driver lights up a cigarette or turns
up the volume on his stereo just because his favourite turbo
folk song is on the radio.

36 getting around
International bus schedule

Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr. One way ()
-2----- 08:00 13:10 Amsterdam -2----- 08:00 13:10 118
-2----- 08:00 10:25 Antwerpen -2----- 10:45 13:10 114
1234567 06:00 13:10 Belgrade 1234567 06:00 12:45 21
16:00 23:10 Belgrade 1234567 16:00 22:45
---4--- 08:00 07:40 Berlin -----6- 10:00 09:40 88
-----6- 09:30 11:30 Berlin ----5-- 17:00 16:15 107
1234567 13:00 17:05 Berlin 1234567 07:00 11:00 82
1234-67 08:00 15:20 Dortmund 123456- 05:00 12:35 133
1234567 10:00 15:50 Dubrovnik 1234567 15:00 20:50 23
1234567 08:00 09:20 Frankfurt 1234567 11:00 12:35 108
1234567 09:00 21:00 Gotenborg 1234567 13:30 00:00 144
-----6- 09:30 01:30 Gotenborg ----5-- 02:30 16:15 152
1234567 09:00 19:15 Graz 1234567 21:15 07:55 40
-----6- 17:00 19:25 Hamburg ----5-- 05:00 07:40 133
1234567 11:00 18:50 Herceg Novi 1234567 08:00 15:50 23
1234567 08:05 01:50 Innsbruck 1234567 16:00 09:55 62
1234567 09:00 15:40 Copenhagen 1234567 18:30 00:00 135
-----6- 09:30 21:00 Copenhagen ----5-- 07:30 16:15 130
-----6- 09:30 04:45 Linkoping ---4--- 22:30 16:15 163
1234567 09:00 23:30 Linz 1234567 17:00 07:55 56
-2-4--7 20:40 06:00 Ljubljana 1 -3 -5 - - 19:15 04:55 45
1234567 15:15 03:10 Ljubljana 1234567 20:00 08:10 39
1234567 09:00 17:00 Malmo 1234567 17:30 00:00 135
-----6- 09:30 22:00 Malmo ----5-- 06:30 16:15 130
1234567 08:00 02:50 Mnchen 1234567 18:00 12:35 65
-----6- 17:00 08:10 Mnchen ----5-- 16:25 07:40
1234567 15:00 22:00 Novi Pazar 1234567 10:15 17:00 15
1234567 22:00 05:45 Novi Pazar 1234567 14:00 20:30
1234567 07:00 14:00 Novi Pazar 1234567 07:00 14:15
1234567 21:00 04:30 Novi Pazar 1234567 22:00 05:15
1234567 15:15 02:10 Novo mesto 1234567 21:00 08:10 35
-----6- 09:30 06:00 Oslo ---4--- 21:30 16:15 171
----5-- 09:00 14:30 Paris ------7 14:00 17:30 133
1234567 19:00 04:30 Pula 1234567 14:30 02:45 45
1234567 18:00 02:50 Rijeka 1234567 16:00 02:45 39
1234567 08:05 23:20 Salzburg 1234567 18:35 09:55 57
1234567 09:30 13:50 Slavonski Brod 1234567 19:10 22:30 15
1234567 14:30 21:10 Split 1234567 06:00 12:45 24
1234567 10:00 18:00 Split 1234567 16:00 22:20 24
1234567 21:00 04:30 Split 1234567 09:30 17:30 24
1234567 06:00 13:35 Split 1234567 07:00 14:25 24
1234567 10:00 18:00 Split 1234567 09:30 17:30 24
1234567 09:00 02:00 Stockholm 1234567 09:00 00:00 158
-----6- 09:30 08:30 Stockholm ---4--- 17:00 16:15 163
- 2 - - -6 - 08:30 09:00 Stockholm -2--5-- 16:00 17:30 182
1234567 08:00 22:45 Vienna 1234-67 18:00 08:45 49
1234567 11:15 23:30 Vienna 1234-67 18:00 06:00 44
1234567 16:00 23:55 Zagreb 1234567 18:50 02:45 31
1234567 06:30 14:50 Zagreb 1234567 06:30 14:50 35
1234567 12:30 20:55 Zagreb 1234567 12:30 20:55 35
1234567 22:00 06:00 Zagreb 1234567 22:00 06:00 35
1234567 09:30 16:00 Zagreb 1234567 16:45 22:30 23

getting around 37
The standard starting rate for taxis and the rate per kilometre
is 2 and 0.75 per kilometer. One hour waiting rate is 7.5 International train schedule
There is no difference in price if you order a taxi in advance. There
are at least 50 different taxi ranks in the city. To get a taxi you just From Sarajevo To Sarajevo
need to stand on the street and stop one or simply call one of the Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
taxi services. There are about 1.200 taxis in the city. 07:14 14:10 Beli manastir 14:22 21:09
Samir i Emir taxi Travnicka 35, tel. (+387) 33 66 76 07:14 17:20 Belgrade 06:20 21:39
81. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 07:14 18:58 Budapest 09:25 21:09
Sarajevo taxi Tel. (+387) 33 15 15/(+387) 33 66 06 07:50 09:45 akovo 05:21 07:10
66, www.sarajevotaxi.com.ba. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 12:00 13:55 Dombovar 08:57 10:52
10:27 18:05 Hrvatska kostajnica 10:39 18:05
Zuti taxi Bana Mateja Ninoslava 18, tel. (+387) 33 21:20 05:01 Hrvatska kostajnica 22:39 06:20
66 35 55. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 10:27 19:10 Lekenik 09:33 18:05
21:20 06:07 Lekenik 21:31 06:20
Travel Agents 10:27
07:14
23:50
14:38
Ljubljana
Magyarboly
06:15
13:40
18:18
21:09
Centrotrans-eurolines d.d. Sarajevo Kurta Shorka 06:45 10:07 Metkovii 06:35 10:02
bb, tel. (+387) 33 464 040/(+387) 33 464 045, 18:18 21:44 Metkovii 17:34 20:59
ferhadija16@hotmail.com, info@centrotrans.com, 10:27 06:15 Munich 11:26 06:20
www.centrotrans.com, www.centrotours.ba. They 21:20 16:32 Munich 23:45 18:18
speak English and German. 07:14 13:15 Osijek 14:54 21:09
Otas Marala Tita 38d, tel. (+387) 33 221 410/(+387) 07:14 15:55 Pecs 12:40 21:09
06:45 10:41 Ploe 06:05 10:02
33 221 420, otas@otas.ba, www.otas.ba. 18:18 22:16 Ploe 17:00 20:59
Relaxtours Terazije bb, tel. (+387) 33 209 012/(+387) 33 07:14 17:36 Sarbogard 10:49 21:09
263 190, relaxtours@relaxtours.com, www.relaxtours.com. 07:14 16:32 Sasd 11:52 21:09
Relax tours is the leading bosnian travel agency established in 1989 10:27 18:53 Sisak 09:52 18:05
and the first privately held travel agency in Bosnia and Herzegovina. 18:05 05:41 Sisak 21:50 06:20
These travel agents also speak English and German. 10:27 18:46 Sisak caprag 09:59 18:05
21:20 05:48 Sisak caprag 21:58 06:20
07:14 11:50 Slavonski amac 16:03 21:09
07:14 12:27 Strizivojna - Vrpolje 15:46 21:09
10:27 18:23 Sunja 10:22 18:05
21:20 05:18 Sunja 22:22 06:20
07:14 16:10 Szentlorinc 12:15 21:09
10:27 19:31 Velika Gorica 09:14 18:05
21:20 06:26 Velika Gorica 21:09 06:20
10:27 07:16 Venice 21:27 18:18
07:14 14:44 Villany 13:13 21:09
10:27 17:56 Volinja 11:03 18:05
21:20 04:28 Volinja 23:08 06:20
21:20 13:55 Vienna 06:04 21:09
10:27 19:47 Zagreb 08:47 18:05
21:20 06:43 Zagreb 20:59 06:20
Valid until December 1, 2009.
One of Sarajevos trademark trams

38 getting around
Relaxing by the river in Vilsonovo
Flight schedule
Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr.
--3--6- 07:00 07:15 Banja Luka (JA) --3--6- 13:30 13:45
1------ 15:30 15:45 Banja Luka (JA) 1------ 22:00 22:15
1234567 06:30 07:15 Beograd (JU) 1234567 21:40 22:10
1234567 15:20 16:25 Budapest (MA) 1234567 14:50 15:55
---4--7 15:00 17:25 Frankfurt (JA) ---4--7 21:00 23:20
-2----- 08:45 10:30 Stuttgart (4U) -2----- 06:35 08:15
-2----- 18:35 20:20 Stuttgart (4U) -2----- 16:25 18:05
-----6- 12:25 14:10 Stuttgart (4U) -----6- 10:15 11:55
1---4-6- 14:55 17:45 Istanbul (TK) 1---4-6- 13:55 14:45
-23-5-7 18:15 21:05 Istanbul (TK) -23-5-7 17:15 18:05
-2-4--- 13:45 15:45 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) -2--4-- 13:15 15:15
-----6- 15:55 17:55 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) ---4--- 13:40 15:40
---4-6- 14:10 16:10 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) -----6- 15:25 17:25
1234567 16:25 17:20 Ljubljana (JP) ------7 14:55 15:50
------7 15:25 16:20 Ljubljana (JP) 1234567 15:55 16:50
12345-7 06:15 09:25 Istambul (JA) 12345-7 11:00 12:10
-2----- 13:45 15:50 Duesseldorf (JA) -2----- 16:40 18:45
-2----- 15:00 17:05 Duesseldorf (JA) -2----- 17:55 20:00
123456- 06:35 08:05 Munich (LH) 12345-7 12:25 13:50
12345-7 13:00 14:30 Munich (LH) 12345-7 20:50 22:15
Beograd (SOP) 1------ 10:45 11:30
12345-- 16:45 17:30 Beograd (SOP) -2345-- 11:10 11:55
--3-5-- 10:05 13:00 Rygge (DY) --3-5-- 09:25 12:20
1------ 11:30 12:45 Skopje (JA) 1------ 14:45 16:05
---4--- 12:00 12:40 Podgorica (JA) ------7 14:45 15:30
------7 13:15 14:00 Podgorica (JA) ---4--- 16:15 17:00
1--4--- 12:00 14:35 Copenhagen (JA) 1--4--- 15:35 18:05
--3--6- 10:10 13:00 Stockholm (DY) --3--6- 09:25 12:20
1-3---- 07:00 08:35 Vienna (JA) -2-45-- 17:00 18:20
-2-4567 13:30 14:50 Vienna (JA)
-----6- 07:30 10:15 Goteborg (JA) ---4--- 03:30 06:15
--3---- 12:00 14:45 Goteborg (JA) -----6- 11:15 14:00
--3---- 22:00 00:45 Goteborg (JA) --3---- 15:40 18:15
1234567 07:50 09:10 Vienna (OS) 1234567 14:40 15:50
1234567 15:25 16:40 Vienna (OS) 1234567 21:00 22:10
1234567 06:30 07:15 Zagreb (OU) 1234567 15:30 16:15
1234567 16:15 17:15 Zagreb (OU) 1234567 22:00 22:45
-2-4--- 07:30 09:55 Zurich (JA) -2-45-7 12:30 14:55
----5-7 07:15 09:30 Zurich (JA)
Airline codes: JP Adria Airways; JU Jat Airways; MA Malev; OS Austrian Airlines; TK Turkish Airlines; RA Icar air; LH Lufthansa;
BA British Airways; JA BH Airlines; 4U germanwings ; DY norvegian.no; OU Croatia Airlines; SOP Solinair

Mail & Phones 39
BH Telecom (061, 062) B-4, Obala Kulina bana

Internet 8, tel. (+387) 33 21 22 77, fax (+387) 33 21 22 88,
To log in over a phone line with a local dialup method contact www.bhmobile.ba. All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM
one of the following providers: cards. They are for sale in operators offices, post offices,
BH Telekom +387 33 212 277, newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc. You
M-Tel Phone: +387 57 310 490, dont need to show ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 07:00
Eronet +387 33 259 970Wifi is available in some hotels, - 20:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile
restaurants and bars. Free wifi in the city can be found providers is 5-10 EUR.
in: Business center UNITIC, Hotel Holiday Inn, Bus station Eronet (063) B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 19, tel. (+387)
Sarajevo, BH Telecom Center, main post office. 33 25 99 70, fax (+387) 33 25 99 71, www.eronet.ba.
e-Agent 29 Brace Begic. Situated in Kosevko Brdo, All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for
across from the Chinese embassy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands,
Closed Sun. Cost: 1km/30 mins. bookshops, shopping centers etc. You dont need to show
Gemini Internet Cafe B-3, enoina 16. Situated across ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
the street from Marsala Tita. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. - 15:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile
InterLink Centar B-4, Obala Kulina bana 7/III, tel. providers is 5-10 EUR.
(+387) 33 20 59 43. Q Prices are more or less same at M-tel (065, 066) Trg ilidanskih boraca bb, tel. (+387)
all Internet cafes. Cost: 1 for one hour, 2,5 for three hours, 57 31 04 90, fax (+387) 57 310 490, www.mtel.ba. All
4 for five hours, 7.5 for 10 hours. operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for sale
Internet CAF AltarITC C-2, Husrefa Redzica 3, tel. in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, book-
(+387) 33 44 08 15/(+387) 61 22 25 65. Q Prices are shops, shopping centers etc. You dont need to show ID to
more or less same at all Internet cafes. Cost: 1 for one hour, get a SIM card. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00.
2,5 for three hours, 4 for five hours, 7.5 for 10 hours. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers
Internet Cafe Cyber Uyun Komerc. On the street across is 5-10 EUR.
Mula Mustafe Baeskje, the street behind the Cathedral.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Cost: 1KM/20 mins.
Internet Club Click B-4, Kundurdiluk 1, tel. (+387) Mailing
33 236 914. In the center, across from hotel Astra. QOpen These are the main international express mail companies
09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Cost: 1km/20 mins. and the main post office in Sarajevo.Every post office and
Virtual Spot B-3; B-4, Petrakijna 6, tel. (+387) 33 20 bank in the city offers currency exchange cash into/from
05 99/(+387) 61 19 89 28, virtual@bih.net.ba, www. euros.
v-spot.ba. This spot offers one of the best deals in town.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 1 hour - 2KM, 3 hour - 5KM, 5 hour - DHL Dzemala Bijedica 166, tel. (+387) 33 77 40 00,
8KM, 10 hour - 15KM, 50 hour - 65KM, 100 hour - 100KM. www.dhl.ba. QOpen 08:00.
ZemZem B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskje 61, tel. (+387) 33 EMS B-1, Zmaja od Bosne 88, tel. (+387) 33 17 17,
239 648/(+387) 61 804 200. Q Cost: 1KM/20 mins. www.bhp.ba. QOpen 08:00.
FedEx Brace Mulic 48, tel. (+387) 33 77 32 50, www.
fedex.co.ba.
Main Post Office (Glavna pota Sarajevo) B-1, B-2,
Zmaja od Bosne 88, tel. (+387) 33 14 44/(+387) 33
14 23, fax (+387) 33 65 04 07. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. Postal Rates:
Letters.
Public phones
There is only one public phone company in the city. All
payphones are card-operated. You can get a card in
every post office. The instructions on the telephones
are in English too. Calling cards cost 1 Euro, 2 Euros,
etc.
Making calls
When you are: calling within the city, only dial the 6
subscriber number digits calling from the city to another
city: dial city code with the zero, then the 6-digit subscriber
number calling from abroad to the city: dial country code,
city code without the zero, then the 6-digit subscriber
number. calling to a local mobile number: dial mobile
Inside the central post office number with the zero.
Mobile phones Local phone codes

All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards, available for
sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, Sarajevo 033 Banja Luka 051
bookshops, shopping centers etc.The basic set-up costs Biha 037 Mostar 036
for all mobile providers is from 5-10 EUR.You do not need to
show any forms of ID to get a SIM card. There is no place in Tuzla 035
Sarajevo or at the airport to rent a mobile phone.

40 Shopping
You can spend hours upon hours browsing through quaint
boutiques, workshops and large department stores within Fashion
the bustling old town alleyways or along the main shopping Bata C-3, emalua 3, and Kurta orka 7 - Wisa
streets. Here is a selection of shops that may be worth a Shopping Centar, tel./fax (+387) 33 45 03 15, www.
visit - buy anything from books, souvenirs to clothes, art bata.com. Bata is one of the worlds leading footwear
and flowers. retailers and manufacturers.
Calypso B-3; B-2, Titova 15 & Fra Andjela Zvizodvica 1,
tel. (+387) 33 44 42 49/(+387) 33 20 76 63, fax (+387)
Art 33 20 76 63, info@calypso.ba, www.calypso.ba.
Art Gallery B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4 - Holiday Inn, Fontana shop B-4; B-2, Ferhadija 35, Zelenih beretki
tel. (+387) 33 28 80 00, holiday@bih.net.net.ba. The 20, Kralja Tvrtka 27. Fortuna sells a range of cosmetics
art gallery is located on the mezzanine floor. You can take and perfumes for men and women.
a look at the paintings of Mersad Berber, one of the most Granoff B-3; B-4, Ferhadija 34 & Titova 34, tel. (+387)
reknowned Bosnian & Herzegovinian painters. 33 55 22 52/(+387) 33 57 21 55, fax (+387) 33 76
Art Shop B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 24. Original and unique 96 31, info@granoff.ba, www.granoff.ba. If youve got
pieces of art and jewellery are on sale every Saturday at BKC. an important meeting in town or you have to be present at
Q Open Sat 11:00-17:00 a wedding, dont hestitate! You can pick a suit at Granoff
which is the place to get fitted in one of the best mens
Bookshops fashion boutiques.
Marina Rinaldi B-3, Radieva 12, tel. (+387) 33
You can find translated Bosnian literature in English, German 27 20 10.
and Italian in the bookshops listed. You may be interested in Martimex B-4; A-1, Strossmayerova 1 & Gradaaka
the following famous/popular writers in Bosnia: 1, tel. (+387) 33 200 983, martimex_stross@bih.net.
Miljenko Jergovi (Ruta Tannenbaum) ba. Perfumes for men and women. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Emir Imamovi (Tajna Doline piramida) Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Nenad Velikovi (100 zmajeva) Oviesse TC Intershop, Kolodvorska 12, www.oviesse.
Ozren Kebo (Sarajevo za poetnike) com/en. Italian fashion outlet for men, women, children and
Faruk ehi (Transsarajevo, poetry) home accessories.
Retro B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne bb RTC. This store
Buybook B-3, Radieva 4, tel. (+387) 33 71 64 sells funky, retro boots and shoes for men and women at
51/(+387) 33 71 20 10, info@buybook.ba, www.buybook. resonable prices.
ba. Almost the definition of a good book shop, Buybook has a Springfield B-4, Sime Milutinovica 12.
range of titles in both Bosnian and other European languages Terranova B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije 14, tel.
along with postcards that go beyond the typical tourist type (+387) 33 550 795/(+387) 33 550 796, www.
images. Add a coffee shop and no pressure to buy and you have terranova-on-line.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
an ideal place to stock up on reading material. QOpen 09:00 10:00 - 20:00.
- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Theresa B-2, Fra Andjela Zvizdovica 1.
Interliber Azize Sacirbegovic 100, tel. (+387) 33 712
515, fax (+387) 33 712 516, info@interliber.com, www.
interliber.com. Interliber bookshop offers a whole range of Flowers
books - computers, history, literature, you name it and in local Cvjeara Nerina 2 B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne bb.
and international languages. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Cvjecara VI B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije 59, tel.
TKD ahinpai B-4, Marala Tita 29 & Vladislava (+387) 33 23 37 14.
Skarica 8, tel. (+387) 33 21 05 30/(+387) 33 77 11 Palma C-3, Bolnicka bb, tel. (+387) 33 44 53 45.
80, fax (+387) 33 77 11 88, info@btcsahinpasic.com,
www.btcsahinpasic.com. Like buybook, ahinpai has
a good range of titles including novels and non-fiction, with Markets
a wide selection of the myriad books written on the Bosnian Sarajevo has plenty of open markets with fresh fruit and
conflict. It has many English language titles, very helpful staff, vegetables but also many other interesting items. The
and the prevailing atmosphere is browse for as long as you main city markets are open every day from early morning
like. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. hours until 17:00 or 18:00. Bascarsija Market (crafts)
Ciglane market (Flea market, vegetables and fruit) Markale
market (vegetables, fruit and flowers) Flea market Stup
(only on Sundays) Otoka Market (food and clothes)
Shopping Centres
BBI Centar B-3, Trg Sarajeva, tel. (+387) 33 560 500,
info@bbicentar.ba, www.bbicentar.ba. The crme de
la crme of Sarajevos shopping centres, its 43000m of
capitalism gone wild and the only modern mall in the centre
of town. Opened back in April it took the place of the older
Sarajka shopping centre that was one of the symbols of
Sarajevo prior to the war. The architecture both inside and
out is quite impressive - if perhaps not to everyones taste
- and the selection of shops is the widest youll find anywhere
in the city. Even if youre not looking to shop the five floors
of air conditioned asymmetry can be an attractive place
to wander during the hot summer months. QOpen 09:00
Grand Centar in Ilida - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

shoPPing 41
Grand Centar Butmirska 14, tel. (+387) 33 626

291 . Yet anoth er o f th e cit ys brand new modern
shopping centres, its par t of the Sani G rand City
development combining retail, municipal and residential
space in the suburb of Ilida. Anchored by a nearly
3000m Mercator Hypermarket the mall is home to all
kinds of shops from fashion and footwear to books and
electronics, and of course the prerequisite restaurants,
childrens play area and more than enough parking.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Mercator Centar Loionika 16, tel. (+387) 33 28 61
50, www.mercator.ba. Sarajevos first modern shopping
centre is still popular with locals. A bit out of the centre its
relatively easily reached by tram, and parking is plentiful if
you have your own transport. Theres the usual mix of local
boutiques and large international chain stores including
Intersport and Benetton, as well as a cheap cantina-style
buffet and several other eateries. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Skenderija Shopping Centar A-2, Terezije bb, tel./
fax (+387) 33 665 322, marketing@skenderija.ba,
www.skenderija.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.
VF Korea Put Zivota bb, trimont@bih.net.ba, www.
trimont.com.ba.
WISA Baii bb, tel. (+387) 33 71 02 10/(+387) 61
14 53 80, fax (+387) 33 71 02 11, maldoo@bih.net.
ba, www.mal.ba.
Souvenirs
Baarija is a colourful market area of narrow streets,
broad squares, mosques, ca fs and scores of tiny
handicraft, carpet, antique and souvenir shops. Most
of the souvenir shops offer up the same wares - mugs
and postcards, copper coffee sets and serving dishes Hand-made metal work in Basarija
and trays - but there are also some unique items to
be found. The hundreds of thousands of shells and are local specialists and also have a repair service. You
bullets that rained down on Sarajevo during the siege will find it in a small street starting from the lower part
are now turned into pens and pepper pots, showing that of the Pigeon Square.
the ingenuity of the citizens didnt desert them once Oriental Shoes B-4, Saraci 15. These oriental leather
the hostilities ceased. Other interesting items include shoes are hand-made and embroidered by craftsmen of
memorabilia from the Communist years and the Olympic Kalajdzisalihovic M. Ahmed, proud of their tradition dating
weeks. Though the occasional hard-sell approach may back to 1822. Q Price 55 EUR, other models from 25
make you feel you really are in Istanbul, the tinkling of EUR, also available in textile.
the copper-workers hammers, the cobblestones and Souvenir shop B-4, Kazandiluk 18a. QOpen 08:00
timber-fronted shops make Baarija a great place - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
for wandering, looking, and no doubt buying something Vezenje B - 4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije 20, tel.
to take home with you. (+387) 33 233 532/(+387) 61 172 998, vezenje@
bih.net.ba, www.vezenje.ba. This small shop near
Bosnian Handicraft Knitwear Shop Cizmediluk the Markale market is the place to go if youre looking
1, tel. (+387) 33 551 535, bhcrafts@bih.net.ba, for patches. From UN and EU to various police and
www.bhcrafts.org. Some of the best handmade gifts paramilitary groups to sport teams and of course the
in town can be found here. Bosnian Handicraft sells 1984 Winter Olympics, they have them all. The patches
handmade sweaters, gloves, scarfs and toys made by by themselves run KM3-5, but you can get them affixed
Bosnian women. to decent quality shirts starting at only KM15. QOpen
Butik Badem Abadiluk 12. If youre looking for 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
oriental spices and some amazing sweets and nuts
then pay a visit to Butik Badem. The Turkish delights
and candied almonds are something youve got to try. Sports
Youll definitely find something you fancy there. QOpen BB Sport Shop B-4; A-2; B-1; B-2, Ferhadija 3, Terezije
09:00 - 23:00. bb, Zmaja od Bosne bb (TC Robot Socijalno) , Mula
Gallery Nur Veliki uriluk 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Mustafe Baeskije bb, tel. (+387) 33 222 333, info@
Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. bbsport.ba, www.bbsport.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Kazandiluk Street B - 4, Kazandiluk bb. The Intersport Loionika 16 (Mercator Centar).
famous coppersmith trading place on the west side of Sport life B-4, Ferhadija 12.
Baarija. Here youll find great antiques, hand carved
copper dishes and oriental decor. The best place in the
old town to get your local coffee set souvenir.
Kiko Rugs Trgovke 19, tel. (+387) 61 207 504. The sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
shop has a nice selection of new and used rugs. They

42 directory
Everything about communications, health, government,
media, banks, real estate, language courses and so on. Government
Agency for Privatization in FBiH B-2; B-3; C-2;
D-2, Alipasina 41, tel. (+387) 33 212 884/(+387) 33
Clinics and Hospitals 212 885, fax (+387) 33 212 883, apfbih@bih.net.ba,
Clinical Centre I. Sarajevo Kasindo 74, tel. (+387) www.apf.com.ba.
57 676 195, bolnica_kasindo@paleol.net. Commission to Preserve National Monuments
Eurofarm Centar Butmirska cesta 14, tel. (+387) 33 B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 1, tel. (+387) 33 276 760,
773 020/(+387) 61 13 63 06, eurofarm@epn.ba, www. fax (+387) 33 276 768, aneks8ko@bih.net.ba, www.
eurofarmcentar.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 aneks8komisija.com.ba.
- 15:00. Closed Sun. Council Of Ministers B-2, Trg BiH 1, tel. (+387)
Opa bolnica Sarajevo (General hospital 33 211 581/(+387) 33 663 519, fax (+387) 33
Sarajevo) B-1; B-2, Kranjevieva 12, tel. (+387) 205 347, mmicevska@vijeceministara.gov.ba, www.
33 208 100, hospital@obs.ba, www.obs.ba. QOpen vijeceministara.gov.ba.
00:00 - 24:00. Federal Ministry Of Finance B-3, Mehmeda Spahe 5,
Poliklinika Dr. Gezo Mustafe Kameria 10, Dobrinja, tel. (+387) 33 253 532/(+387) 33 253 400, fax (+387)
tel. (+387) 33 450 102, fax (+387) 33 455 425, 33 663 920, info@fmf.gov.ba, www.fmf.gov.ba.
info@drgezo.ba, www.drgezo.ba. Physicians specialize Federal Office of Statistics B-4, Zelenih Beretki
in Otolaryngology, the medical and surgical therapy of 26, tel./fax (+387) 33 66 45 53, fedstat@fzs.ba,
problems of the ears, nose and throat. QOpen 09:00 www.fzs.ba.
- 19:00. Closed Sun. Foreign Investment Promotion Agency for BiH
Poliklinika Dr. Hadiomerovi B-3, Marala Tita B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 21/III, tel. (+387) 33 278
2, tel. (+387) 33 458 684/(+387) 61 188 009, 080, fax (+387) 33 278 081, fipa@fipa.gov.ba, www.
drhomer@pksa.com.ba, www.drhadziomerovic.ba. A fipa.gov.ba/.
private clinic with services in Gynocology, Internal Medicine Government of Federation of Bosnia and
and Ultrasound. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Herzegovina B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipasina 41, tel.
Closed Sun. (+387) 33 212 986, fax (+387) 33 220 437, info@
Poliklinika FM B-1; B-2, Vilsonovo etalite 6, tel. fbihvlada.gov.ba, www.fbihvlada.gov.ba.
(+387) 33 22 33 88, info@poliklinika-fm.ba, www. Ministry of Civil Affairs B-2, Trg Bosne i Hercegovine
poliklinika -fm.ba. Clinic specializing in cardiology, 1, tel. (+387) 33 221 073, kabinet.ministra@mcp.gov.
gastroenterology, endocrinology, radiology, breast diseases, ba, www.mcp.gov.ba.
neurology, orthopedics, urology, dermatology and physical Ministry of Foreign Affairs B-3, Musala 2, tel. (+387)
therapy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed 33 281 100, fax (+387) 33 472 188, info@mvp.gov.
Sun. ba, www.mfa.gov.ba. Useful and up to date information,
Poliklinke Atrijum Demala Bijedia 185, Avaz including the principles of BiH foreign policy, diplomatic
Business Center, tel. (+387) 33 467 444/(+387) 33 and other activities of the MFA, and diplomatic - consular
768 765, fax (+387) 33 768 768, a_omerbasic@yahoo. missions, as well as other necessary and useful information,
com. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 / 14:00 - 18:00. such as issuing of traveling documentation of Bosnia and
University of Sarajevo Clinical Centre C-3, Herzegovina, or visas information.
Bolnika 25, tel. (+387) 33 29 70 00/(+387) 33 66 Ministry of Justice of Bosnia and Herzegovina
66 20, fax (+387) 33 44 18 15, info@kcus.net, www. B-2, Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 1, tel. (+387) 33 223
kcus.net. 505, fax (+387) 33 223 507, kontakt@mpr.gov.ba,
www.mcp.gov.ba.
Presidency Of BiH B-3, Musala 9, tel. (+387) 33 555
Dentists 691, www.predsjednistvobih.ba.
Dental Office Dr. Elma Hojkuri Paromlinska 40, tel.
(+387) 33 654 024/(+387) 61 497 227, elmahojkuric@
hotmail.com, www.dr-elma.com. Insurance Companies
Dental Surgery Biaki B-3, Marala Tita 7, tel./ Sarajevo Osiguranje B-3, obanija 14, tel. (+387)
fax (+387) 33 208 288. 33 203 270, info@sarajevoosiguranje.ba, www.
Dental Surgery Dr. Begeta C-3, emalua 4/II, sarajevoosiguranje.ba.
tel./fax (+387) 33 225 257, tel. (+387) 61 148 148, UNIQA Osiguranje B-2, Fra Anela Zvizdovia 1,
ordinacija@begeta.ba, www.begeta.ba. tel. (+387) 33 295 500, fax (+387) 33 295 541, info@
Dr. Edin Muhi Splitska 3, tel./fax (+387) 33 21 uniqa.ba, www.uniqa.ba.
47 06, dr.edin@lsinter.net, www.ordinacijamuhic.
ba.
Dr. Hatidza Foco B-3; B-4, Dzenetica Cikma 10/II, Language Courses
tel. (+387) 33 218 057, info@drfoco.com, www. Interlingua B-3, Skenderija 35, tel. (+387) 33 710
ortodoncija.com.ba. 490/(+387) 33 710 491, fax (+387) 33 572 961,
Dr. Lejla Ceri-Daferovi D-2, Patriotske lige 43, info@ihsarajevo.ba, www.interlingua.ba. Interlingua
tel. (+387) 61 360 195, ordinacija@drlejla.com, www. has become a member of The International House-
drlejla.com. World Organisation. The International House World
Organisation (IHWO) is a network of language schools
Dry Cleaners worldwide that are committed to implementing high
standards of quality and innovation in education and training.
Dry Cleaners (Hemijska istiona Boos) B-3, QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tabanica 11, tel. (+387) 33 215 735, fax (+387) Soro School for Foreign Languages B-3, Marala
33 221 378. Tita 19/III,, tel./fax (+387) 33 44 44 88, osf@soros.
Dr y Cleaner s (Hemijska istiona F leka) org.ba, www.soros.org.ba. The School organizes courses
Paromlinska 2, tel. (+387) 33 614 220. in English, French, German and Italian for adults and children,

directory 43
and preparatory courses for TOEFL and IELTS tests. It also Sos Kinderdorf Semira Frate bb., tel. (+387) 33
offers both individual and courses tailored for the needs of 465 323/(+387) 33 465 218, fax (+387) 33 465 218,
companies and organizations. There are also courses in soskind@smartnet.ba, lamija.turcilo@smartnet.ba,
Bosnian language for the foreign citizens in B&H. www.sos-ds.ba.
Chambers of Commerce Notaries

American Chamber of Commerce in Bosnia and Muir Brki Rustem Papina 41/II, Ilida, tel. (+387)
Hercegovina B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4, tel. (+387) 33 763 455, mbrkic@bih.net.ba.
33 269 230, fax (+387) 33 269 232, amcham@lol.ba,
www.amcham.ba. Nasiha Ali , tel. (+387) 33 766 245, naca124@
BiH Chamber of Commerce Branislava ureva 10, gnet.ba.
tel. (+387) 33 663 370, fax (+387) 33 214 292, cis@
komorabih.ba, www.komorabih.ba.
Chamber of Economy of Sarajevo Canton B-3, La Opticians
Benevolencija 8, tel. (+387) 33 250 100, fax (+387) Oftalmoloka ordinacija Dr. Sefi B-4, Ferhadija
33 250 137, webmaster@pksa.com.ba, www.pksa. 5/1, tel. (+387) 33 210 212, fax (+387) 33 210 125,
com.ba. ordinacija@sefic.ba, www.sefic.ba.
Foreign Trade Chamber of BiH B-3, Branislava Optika Baro B-4, Ferhadija 30, tel. (+387) 33 573
ureva 10, tel. (+387) 33 663 370, fax (+387) 33 214 900, fax (+387) 33 201 860, info@optikabaros.ba,
292, j.lasic@kfbih.com, www.kfbih.com. www.optikabaros.ba.
Optika Loris Topal Osman pae 32, tel. (+387) 33 715
520, fax (+387) 33 715 522, optikaloris@bih.net.ba,
Lawyers and Consultants www.optikaloris.ba.
Beganovi-uti Mirsada B-3, Radieva 2, tel. Optika Nur Velika avlija 12, tel. (+387) 61 529 894,
(+387) 33 219 225, h_zutic@bih.net.ba. info@optika.ba, www.optika.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00
Crnali Asim B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 20, tel. (+387) / 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
61 208 683/(+387) 33 206 580. Optika Oculto B-3, enoina 12, tel./fax (+387) 33
Eterovi Amila B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 10/III, tel./ 666 333, info@oculto.ba, www.oculto.ba.
fax (+387) 33 215 430, tel. (+387) 33 207 434, info@
aketerovic.com, www.aketerovic.com.
Pharmacies
Apoteka Baarija B-4, Obala Kulina bana 40,
Media tel. (+387) 33 272 300/(+387) 33 272 301, www.
BHT Television Bulevar Mee Selimovia 12, tel. apoteke-sarajevo.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
(+387) 33 455 211, www.bhrt.ba. Public service 08:00 - 22:00.
broadcasting TV station in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Apoteka Marijin Dvor B-3, Marala Tita 1, tel. (+387)
Bosnia Daily B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4/X, tel. 33 714 280.
(+387) 33 288 035/(+387) 33 288 034, bdaily@ Apoteka Novo B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 51, tel.
megatel.ba, www.bosniadaily.co.ba. Online newspaper (+387) 33 713 830/(+387) 33 713 831, informativna@
in English focusing on Economics and Politics. apoteke -sarajevo.ba, www.apoteke -sarajevo.ba.
Dnevni Avaz Newspaper Demala Bijedia 185, tel. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
(+387) 33 281 490, redakcija@avaz.ba, www.avaz. Biljna apoteka Matija Paunovski B-4, Zelenih
ba. A daily newspaper. beretki 28, tel./fax (+387) 33 626 200, info@
Osloboenje Demala Bijedia 185, tel. (+387) 33 ap oteka matija.ba, w w w.ap oteka matija.
276 900/(+387) 33 467 723, www.oslobodjenje. b a . Q O p e n 0 9: 0 0 - 2 0: 0 0, S a t 0 9: 0 0 - 1 5: 0 0.
com.ba. Closed Sun.
Sarajevo Prime Television Bulevar Mese Selimovica
12, tel. (+387) 33 776 777/(+387) 33 776 770,
pitajte@tvsa.ba, www.tvsa.ba. Real Estate
Artis C-3, Hadi Idrizova 6, tel. (+387) 33 222
506/(+387) 61 148 810, prodaja@nekretnineartis.ba,
NGOs narudjba@nekretnineartis.ba, www.nekretnineartis.
Budi moj prijatelj (Be my friend) D-2, Patriotske lige ba.
24, tel. (+387) 33 668 660, www.budimojprijatelj.com. Prostor d.o.o B-4, Zelenih Beretki 30, tel. (+387)
Fondacija Mozaik A-3; B-3, Soukbunar 42, tel. (+387) 33 570 555, fax (+387) 33 570 556, info@prostor.ba,
33 266 480, fax (+387) 33 266 482, info@mozaik.ba, www.prostor.ba.
www.mozaik.ba. Mozaik is a community development SigenX B-3, Plato Skenderije, tel. (+387) 33 667 727,
foundation that provides grants and advisory support to info@sigenx.com, www.sigenx.com.
local initiatives of common interest throughout Bosnia and
Herzegovina.
Infohouse A-3; B-3, Soukbunar 42, tel. (+387) 33 227 Relocations
614/(+387) 61 525 054, infohouse@infohouse.ba, A u t o p r e v o z n i k Te l . (+ 3 8 7 ) 6 1 74 9 5 6 1 ,
www.infohouse.ba, www.ljudskaprava.ba. dajaktransport@gmail.com.
Nansen Dijalog Centar C-2, Hakije Kulenovia Centrotrans International Demala Bijedia
10, tel. (+387) 33 273 461/(+387) 33 556 846, fax 153, tel. (+387) 33 457 103/(+387) 62 134 714,
(+387) 33 556 845, office@ndcsarajevo.org, www. centrotransmt@bih.net.ba.
ndcsarajevo.org. Intereuropa RTC Halilovii 12, tel. (+387) 33
Save the Children Hamdije Cemerlica 2/14, tel. 465 054, damir.arapovic@intereuropa.ba, www.
(+387) 33 719 485. intereuropa.ba.

44 Street register
A.Zvizdovia B2 Franjevaka B4 Logavina C4 Rizaha tetia C3
Avde Jabuice B2 Grbavika A1 Ljubuaka B3 Ramia sokak C5
A. ahinagia B4 Garaplina A4,B4 Mrakua A3 Rami banja D5
Alifakovac B5 Gorua B2 Magribija B2 Rogina D5
Alije Bejtia B5 Gorica B2,C2 Mjedenica B3,B4 Soukbunar A3,B3
Antuna Hangija C2 Gazi Husrev b. B4 Musala B3 Stolaka B3
Avde Hume C2 Gabelina C3 Mis Irbina B3 Skenderija B3
Alipaina B2,B3,C2,D2 Golobrdica C4 Mehmeda Spahe B3 Stake Skenderove B3
Armaganua C3 Gloina C4 Marala Tita B3 Sarai B4
Arapova C4 Grliia brdo C5,D5 M.M.Baeskije B4 S. Skaria B4
Aikovac C4 Huremua A4 Megara B5 Sutjeska C2,C3
Ademovia C4 H. Dizdara A4 M.Mujezinovia B5 Sepetarevac C3
Asima Ferhatovia D3 Hiseta B2 Muhameda Hadijahia C2,D2 Sara Ismailova C3,C4
Alije Nametka D4 Hamdije Kreevljakovia B3 Marija Mikulia C2 Safvet bega-Baagia C4
Branilaca Sarajeva B3 H. Kikia B3 Mandina C3 Sunulah Efendije C4
Bakarevia B4 Hadiabdinica B4 Mejta C3 Sagrdije C4
Bistrik B4,A4 Hrvatin B4,B5 Mehmed-pae Stroii C5
Bistrik potok B4,A4 Hoin brijeg B5 Sokolovia C3,C4 Stjepana Tomia C3,D3
Brdo damije B4 Halida Kajtaza C1 Medresa C4 Safeta Paalia C3,D3
Bentbaa B5 Hakije Kulenovia C2 Mandrina C4 Sedrenik D4,D5
Brae Mori B5 Husrefa Redia C2 M. Handia C4 Skender Kulenovia D4,D5
Bolnika C3 Himzarina C3 M.azima atia C4 Streljaka D5
Brdakije C3,D1,D4 Halim-hodina C4 Mejlijina C4,C5 enoina B3
Bjelave C3 H.Kajimije C4 Miina C5 erina B5
Brae Eskenazi C4 Hadi-Jamakova C5 Mraovac C5 ekerova C3,C4
Bakije sokak C5 Humka D4 Mlini C5 eih Mehmedova C3
Breka D3 Hrastovi D4,D5 Marcela najdera D3 irokac C5
Budakovii D4 Iza hrida B5 Mihrivode D4,D5 Terezija A2
Crni vrh B2,B3 I. Cankara C3 Nevesinjska A2 Terzibaina A4
Ciglane C2 Jezero B3 Nova Tekija B2,B3 Teanjska B1,B2,C2
Curak C3 Josipa Vancaa C3 Nadmlini B5 Tepebaina B2
Cadordina C4 Josipa tadlera C4 Nevjestina B5 Tina Ujevia B3,C3
Carina C5 Jekovac C5 Nalina B5 Trivode B5
ebeije donje C5 Jukieva D2,C2 Okrugla A4 Tijesna C3,C4
obanija B3 Kovaia A2 Omera Stupca B2 Turbe B5
eljugovii B5 Kamenica A5 Odobaina B2,C2 Vilsonovo etalite B1,B2
ekalua C3 Kranjevia B1,B2 Obala Maka Dizdara B3 Vrbanja B2
emerlina C4 Kalemova B2 Obala Kulina Bana B4 Valtera Peria B2
Dolina B2 K. Hermana B2 Obala Isa-bega Isakovia B4 V. Skaria B4
Danijela Ozme B3 Kotromania B2 Oaktanum C4 Veleii C1
Dol B5 Kralja Tvrtka B2 Put mladih Muslimana Vojislava Kecmanovia C2,D2
Dajanli Ibrahim-bega C2 Kulovia B3 A2,A3,A4,B3,B4,B5 Vinjik C3
Derebent C3 Kovai B4,C4 Petrakijina B3,B4 Vrbanjua C4
Dola C3 Konak B4 Pod bedemom B5,C5 Vinograd C5
enetia . B3,B4 Kaanik m. B5 Podcarina B5 Vratnik C5
D. auevia B3 Kaanik v. B5 Provare C3 Za beglukom A4,B4
Didikovac B3,C3 Koevo C2,D2,C3,B3 Pirin brijeg C4 Zmaja od Bosne B1,B2
Dinina C4 Kevrin potok C3 Potoklinica C4 Zelenih beretki B4
Emerika Bluma A2 Kartal C4 Potok C4 Zaima arca C3
Ejuba Ademovia B3 Karpuzova C4 Prijeka esma C5 Zatikua C3,C4
F. Rakog B2 Keina C4 Ploa C5 Zmajevac C5
Ferhadija B4 Livanjska C2,D2 Radieva B3 garii A4
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2006 - 2007 April - May 2006 August - September 2006 April 2006 August - September 2006
A New Look
Weve never looked
better: In Your Pocket
gets a makeover
Blogging
Bucharest
Our guide to the best
politically incorrect
comment online
Going to the
chapel
Karltejns renovated
Easter Greetings jewel
Egg breaking & church
Shopping fever Wilanw walking
Tiranas first malls Explore the Polish
Lets rock
Versailles Russian in Russia Visiting the Bohemian
Paradise
Facade art The best ways to discover
the language
Painting the city pink Out of town
Polands top spa town:
Naczw
April 2006 N24
Culture & Events
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ISSN 1641-5264
NEW Cosmonauts Day
LOOK
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
KRAKW TALLINN BELFAST COLOGNE

August - September 2006 April - May 2006 August - September 2006 June - July 2006
Football events
where to party
River tours
Wine and dine on the
Rhine
The Great
Outdoors
Cycling, skydiving and
country pursuits
Gastro Tourism
Seafood, whiskey and
St. Georges Market
Tarnw Touring Narva

Explore the Pearl of the Cool sights at the EUs
Renaissance eastern border
Leisure IYP gets a new

Getting active in Krakw
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ISSN 1508-2334 The inside scoop on the
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BERLIN GDASK Including

RIGA HAMBURG D
SOPOT & GDYNIA
August - September 2006 August - November 2006 April - May 2006 June - July 2006 September - December 2006
Kashubia
Exploring the Polish Alps
Hot spots Hockey Fever Harbour tours Hollyd

The Baltics Beaches Down in the docks Polands cinema city
Everything you need to
Museum night know about IIHF World
100 museums in one Championship in Riga Football events Stars in your
night Win or lose, this is eyes
Explore Latvia where to party From Polanski to Max
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SKOPJE FRANKFURT SHKODRA PRISTINA KAISERSLAUTERN
2006 - 2007 August - September 2006 2006 - 2007 2006 - 2007 June - July 2006
Football events
where to party
Feature 2 - max
Skopje Shkodra 2 lines
snapshots snapshots Short description of the
The Marubi photo The Marubi photo feature. Should be max.
collection collection 3 lines.
Around town Around town

Daytrips to the lake, Daytrips to the lake,
beach and mountains beach and mountains
Football events
Beach bars Win or lose, this is
Cocktail in hand, toes where to party
in sand
Going Palatine
Dram tram Strolling in the forest
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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-

Culture & Events 11

Dining & Nightlife 21

Mail, phones & internet 39

Maps & Index

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2009

With a population of about 400,000 Sarajevo makes full use of

The towering tree- and house-studded hilltops that connect to

The city itself encompasses four quarters: the old town

Editorial Copyright notice

Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

By car Jahornina in autumn

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2009

Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2009

A word from the mayor

The idea of publishing this type of guide dates back

Today Sarajevo is a continously expanding modern

Get In Your Pocket before you go

TIRANA WARSAW PRAGUE BERLIN TALLINN

BUCHAREST BELFAST RIGA COLOGNE HAMBURG KRAKW

Hockey Fever Harbour tours

Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Musaka a meat pie made of minced beef, very similar to

Filovane paprike fried peppers stuffed with minced meat

Prut air dried ham, similar to italian proscuitto.

Suduk beef sausages with a similar form to pepperoni.

Suho Meso dried meat, either beef or pork.

Sarme meat and rice rolled in cabbage or grape leaves.

Ispod Saca similar to a dutch oven. A metal dish is

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2009

Spread of Christianity Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes

Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Sarajevo brims with an affordable and diverse cultural life. Vrooom

Sarajevo Jazz Fest

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2009

Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2009

INTERNATIONAL THEATER FESTIVAL

Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Tennis Head Akademija Donji Hotonj II/B, tel. (+387)

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2009

Europe B-4, Vladislava Skaria 5, tel. (+387) 33

Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Dardanija B-3, Radieva 15, tel. (+387) 33 213 613,

Out for a stroll in Baarija

Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Gaj B-3, Skenderija 14, tel. (+387) 33 55 48 05/(+387)

Grand D-1, Muhameda ef. Pande 7, tel. (+387)

Safir Jagodia 3, tel. (+387) 33 47 50 40, info@

Unica B-3, Hamdije Kresevljakovica 42, tel. (+387)

Vila Wien B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33

Villa Orient B-4, Oprkanj 6, tel. (+387) 33 23 27 02,

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Bosnia, with its beautiful, favourable climate, has a

However, this wide variety of raw ingredients does not

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2009