Carburetor

Removal of the Carburetor

1. Drain float bowl on carburetor using Phillips screwdriver. Be careful, it can strip out! Place your
fuel can under the drain hose.

2. Remove TPS connector

3. Remove two rubber hoses from right side of carburetor and top of carburetor.
4. Remove fuel hose.

5. Loosen two bolts and disconnect throttle cable by removing eyelets from throttle tube.
6. Remove lower throttle cable from carburetor. There are two places your need to loosen. The front
you access from the bottom and remove from spacer. It is not necessary to remove the bolts all the
way from the throttle cable. The rear on the other hand has to have the bottom nut spun the entire
way off of the cable to remove. Once the two are disconnected, remove throttle cable from the bike.

7. Remove front worm clamp from the carburetor and intake boot.

8. Remove two front band clamps on the right side of carburetor.

9. Remove choke cable. Be careful, the choke nut is plastic can strip out! Turn carburetor slight to
the right and access the choke cable on left side of carburetor.

10. Pull up and out to remove the carburetor from the bike frame and engine.
Disassembling top of the Carburetor

1. Remove the top cover of the carburetor. Don't lose the spring!

2. Remove the cap and spring from the carburetor. Pull up on the diaphragm to remove the slide
from the carburetor.

3. Once the slide is removed, remove the needle.

4. Inspect the top of carburetor.

5. Check that your cap-sealing surface is flat. Use straight surface (small piece of glass) or a straight
edge. If cap is warped, it has to be replaced.

6. Check the diaphragm and slide for any wear or damage. Unroll the diaphragm and look at the
inside and out, check the seal edge for tears, cracks, or anything else that doesn't look good.

7. Check the face of the slide for wear and gouging. Small amount of wear is to be expected, but
serious gouges or slots in the slide are a sign of wear and you need to replace the slide.

8. Check the needle for wear.

Disassembling bottom of the Carburetor

1. Remove the bottom cover of the carburetor.

2. To remove the floats, pinch with your fingers and pull up. Be extremely careful not to loose the
float needle!

3. Once the float is removed, inspect it for integrity, check the o-ring for wear.

4. Locate all of the major components inside of the float bowl.

5. Remove the needle valve. Pull up on it. It is only held in-place by tension from an o-ring around
its base.

Once removed, inspect that o-ring to make sure it seals well enough, isnt flattened, or showing
signs of cracking. If it is it has to be replaced.

6. Remove the main jet and spacer.

7. With the main jet removed you can remove the slide support and the needle jet. To remove, press
downward on the place the main jet just came off of.

This will push the slide support out the other side (top) of the carburetor.

Check if there is an O-ring seated at the topside of slide support. If not it, is still in the carburetor
and needs to be pulled out.
8. Remove the idle jet. Be careful and do not force anything.

10. Note the fuel screw position by turning the screw to the right. Count the 1/4 turns in (right). You
will probably get 2-1/4 to 2-3/4. Write it down.

Date: Fuel screw position:

..................... .....................
..................... .....................
..................... .....................
..................... .....................
..................... .....................
..................... .....................
Remove the fuel screw. Be careful not to loose the spring, washer, or O-ring from the screw.

If you have extended fuel screw, it has to come out before you are able to remove the float bowl.

11. Remove float bowl gasket. Be careful not to damage it.

Carburetor modifications

0 - 1/8 air screw

1/8 - 1/4 pilot jet
1/8 - 1/2 slide valve
1/4 - 3/4 needle
3/4 main jet

1. DRILLING THE SLIDE

To reduce the amount of time for the atmospheric pressure to equalize, increase the size of the holes
through which it passes.

Carefully drill these two 3 mm holes from the top.

2. MAIN JET
Stock is 152.5. From there they increase by 2.5. If you are at 1000 m elevation or less, a 160.0 main
jet is a good choice to start. Above that elevation, drop down a size for every 300 m.

3. IDLE JET
Stock idle jet is 45 and should be OK. If you have the airbox mod, the slide mod and have an
aftermarket exhaust, chances are you should be running the larger jet.

4. NEEDLE
Stock setting is in the 3rd position. To richen the flow, lower the clip. To lean the needle, raise the
clip. It is recommended to move clip to 4th position.
Assembling of the Carburetor

1. Assemble the carburetor in reverse order.

2. Be careful when reinstalling the cap that you do not pinch or distort the vacuum diaphragm. Don't
over-tighten the cap screws.

3. When you reinstall the slide support and needle jet (with o-ring) you have to line up the needle jet
with the pin on the carburetor body.

4. Set the float height. To set the float height you need to hold the carburetor inverted with the float
and float needle installed.

These two edges have to be parallel.

Measure float height with the following procedure.

If edges are not parallel, adjust the adjustment tab and measure again.
5. Be careful when installing plastic nut on choke. Do not strip it. Make sure it seals correctly and
fully when reinstalled.

Adjust choke cable. The choke lever must always have a play of approx. 4 mm.

Push the choke lever all the way to the front and slide the protecting cap (#1) from the adjusting
part (#2). Loosen the lock nut (#3) and correct the play by turning the adjusting part. Tighten lock
nut and slide protecting cap back on.

6. Adjust throttle cable. When turning the throttle grip, you should feel backlash of 3-5 mm.

Slide back the pro-tection cover (#5). Loosen the counter nut (#6) and turn the adjusting screw (#7)
accordingly. Then, fasten the counter nut and slide the protection cover back on.

Make sure that the throttle grip will return to the idle position automatically once you let go of it.

After adjusting the throttle cables turn the handlebar all the way to the left and to the right while the
engine is still running. The idle speed should not change.
Airbox modification

Now that you have increase the ability of your carburetor to get fuel into the system more rapidly,
you need to make sure your getting enough air as well.

1. Remove the left side panel from the bike and remove the plastic cover (#7) and (#8).

2. Use cover (#7) as pattern and cut inox plate to match cover's shape.

3. Drill six 25 mm holes to inox plate as high up as possible.

4. Press in air box vents into holes. You can apply some silicone sealant for better sealing.

5. Install new gasket (#8).

6. Replace plastic cover (#7) and (#8) with the new inox cover.
Adjustment of the Carburetor

1. Go for 10-15 minute ride to worm up the engine. Do not turn off the engine.

2. Put the motorcycle on center stand to level it.

3. Adjust idle screw and temporarily set the hot engine idle to about 1800-1900 RPM. Write exact
RPM down.

4. Turn off the engine.

5. Close fuel screw and count the 1/4 turns in (right). You will probably end up with something in
the 2-1/4 to 2-3/4. Write it down.

6. Open fuel screw out to 1-3/4 turns (left).

7. Go for 10-15 minute ride to worm up the engine. Do not turn off the engine.

8. Put the motorcycle on center stand to level it.

9. Write exact RPM down. Value should rise slightly. If RPM does not rise, smaller main jet is
needed.

10. Open fuel screw out 1/4 turn (left).

11. Write exact RPM down. If value rises slightly, repeat step 10.

12. When RPM starts to decrease, set fuel screw back to the highest value of RPM. If RPM does not
start to decrease in 3 1/2 turns, larger main jet is needed.

13. Open fuel screw out 1/8 turn (left).

14. Adjust idle screw and set idle to 1600 RPM.

15. After a while check spark plug porcelin for the color and condition of it.

A white colored plug is caused by engine overheating and carburetor air/fuel mixture is too lean. A
tan colored plug means that the engine is running normal and the air/fuel mixture is correct. A black
dry fluffy colored plug is caused by deposits from a carburetor that is running too rich (too much
gas), or excessive idling.