1KZ-T

11/27/2017 1KZ-T..
No longer TE (Mitsu 4m40 pump swap) | IH8MUD Forum
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1KZ-T.. No longer TE (Mitsu 4m40 pump swap)

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Hello all,
So, as promised, I'm getting a thread started detailing my ongoing pump-swap.

I'm close to getting finished and have a few pics to highlight things. Be warned
though, I'm not quite done with this.
The vehicle was originally a 1994 4runner, and before this swap it had a 1KZ-TE
engine, R151F 5spd transmission, and an EVO 8 front mount intercooler.
bloc
SILVER Star
1KZ-TEs installed in surfs (KZN130s specifically) used the Denso ECDV3 electronic
injection pump.
Messages: 2,326
Likes Received: 1,489 Pros: dynamic timing. (that's it)
Joined: Sep 19, 2008 Cons: almost zero diagnostic capability, obscure technology that most pump shops
Location: Austin, TX in the states refuse to mess with, $1k chip required for significant power
increases, no elegant way to trick the ECU into knowing there is a FMIC and make
the appropriate fuel and timing adjustments.
The pump is based on a bosch VE pump case, using a 12mm plunger and what is
apparently a pretty mild cam-plate. From the factory the injectors are calibrated
for 150kpa
4M40 is a 2.8 liter mitsubishi turbodiesel engine, with a factory intercooler. It is

indirect injected, also with 150kpa opening pressure. It uses a Zexel mechanical
injection pump, with boost compensator.
Pros:TONS of info available on pump mods & troubleshooting, capable of making
repairs/adjustments with screwdriver/wrench, factory boost curve set up for
intercooling (not sure how significant this change is)
Cons: slight machining (if it can really be called that) on the pump case required,
other slight changes to engine config required, throttle lever needs to be pulled, as
opposed to pushed on 1KZ-T mechanical pump (so parts can't be directly
interchanged)
This Zexel pump is a nearly direct knock off of the Bosch VE rotary pump. About
the only difference is the casting logo in the case, and the fact that the throttle
lever pulls instead of push. It uses an 11mm plunger, which on the surface sounds
like it won't make as much power, but when you look at guys in Oz swapping these
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1kz-t-no-longer-te-mitsu-4m40-pump-swap.536516/ 1/17
11/27/2017 1KZ-T.. No longer TE (Mitsu 4m40 pump swap) | IH8MUD Forum
onto 1KZ-T engines to make more power... it's all in the cam-plate (I hope). Either
way, the 4M40 has less displacement, but nearly identical hp and torque figures to
the 1KZ-T, so I'm not worried about the 1mm less diameter on the plunger.
Anyway.. I ordered my 4M40 pump from ebay UK. Search for "Pajero pump", and
look specifically for pumps that came on 2.8liter Pajeros. The 2.5 was an older
chassis and I don't know if they will fit. I didn't want to spend $1k, yet I also
didn't want to get the cheapest thing I could find. So I ordered a relatively clean
looking pump for about $250, with about $50 in shipping. I got the thing home
and went to the local Bosch shop to get a seal kit. Front seal and complete oring
kit: $20, in stock. If I had asked for the same for my 1KZ-TE they would have
given me a blank stare.
I opened the pump up to check internal condition, and it was nearly flawless. The
cam-plate and rollers were perfect. The only sign of usage was the slight marks on
the inner pump case from the timing ring rocking back and forth. For a GREAT
writeup on rebuilding a bosch VE pump, go here: Bosch diesel injection pump
rebuild
Then I set about removing the factory Denso pump. I had heard horror stories
about getting these things off. Guys have had to remove the radiator, A/C
condenser, install a puller, heat the gear, then hammer the crap out of the shaft
(ramming the timing gear into the back of the housing) to get it dislodged. 15+
years of a tapered shaft with thermal cycling.. yeah. I decided to over build my
puller. The first pic is of my puller installed. You may notice a large ball bearing
between the thrust bolt and the pump shaft. This is intended to fit into a detent on
the end of the shaft and keep from tearing it up with all of the force. Toyota's
puller only calls for 2 tension bolts, I went with 4, as some people have said it
seems like with only 2 the threads were going to pull out.
Second pic shows it from a different angle.
It took what seems like a lot of torque, but the shaft popped out without any
hammering or heat. And since I kept the puller low-profile I didn't even have to
remove the radiator.
Third pic is Denso pump, for reference.
bloc, Nov 25, 2011 #1
Pumps side-by-side. Notice different routing of the fuel supply and return lines.
Also, on the Zexel pump you can see a cover plate installed on the side. That hole
originally had a cold-start advance mechanism installed. This huge apparatus used
coolant lines and a wax pellet to advance timing slightly when the engine was
cold, as well as bump the idle up a tiny bit. The whole assembly was too large to
leave room for my power steering lines, as well as got in the way of the 1KZ-TE
fuel supply line, so it had to go. My local Bosch shop gave me a cover plate for the
bloc
hole.. it's the same plate that covers the non-spring side of the timing piston bore.
SILVER Star
I'm running out of time to work on this writeup tonight, so expect more over the
Messages: 2,326
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next few days.
Joined: Sep 19, 2008
Location: Austin, TX -Justin
bloc, Nov 25, 2011 #2
Great info there Bloc, thanks for the post.
You indicate the TE was installed as early as '94 in the 130 series 4Runner. I have
a 2001 KZN185L with the non-electronic pump (1KZ-T). I am to assume then that
the electronic version did not evolve from the mechanical unit??? and that the two
types are made concurrent?
Rick
rchalmers3, Nov 25, 2011 #3
rchalmers3
Messages: 1,540
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Joined: Jun 29, 2007
Location:
Playas de Nosara, Nicoya
Peninsula, Costa Rica
The two were made concurrently.. though I'm not sure you could say the -TE
"evolved". While the lift pump, timing control, and fuel delivery systems are the
same (or very close), the fuel quantity control is completely different on the -TE
Denso pumps from just about anything else made in the VE line.
Supposedly the electronic pumps can make more power and get better efficiency
due to their dynamic timing.. thing is, if the whole system isn't working optimally
you have no way of knowing.
bloc
SILVER Star
What I do know is that they did make -T and -TE vehicles side by side in some
markets (though usually it would be the difference between a 4runner/Surf and a
Messages: 2,326
Likes Received: 1,489 land cruiser, so the market was probably there for the more "simple" mechanical
Joined: Sep 19, 2008 pumps even though they made less power)
Location: Austin, TX
bloc, Nov 25, 2011 #4
Justin,
I just did a search and Wikipedia has the same HP and torque numbers for the T
and TE. Do you happen to know the real figures?
The light research I have done in the past 30 minutes indicates that some markets
may have higher emission standards and only accepted the TE. Apparently if the
vehicle has an automatic tranny you get the TE as well.
rchalmers3
Cheers and best wishes with the swap.

Messages: 1,540
Likes Received: 2 Rick
rchalmers3, Nov 25, 2011 #5
Location:
Playas de Nosara, Nicoya
Peninsula, Costa Rica
Nice writeup. Is the remaining plug on the 4M40 pump just for fuel shutoff or are
there other functions too?
Dougal, Nov 26, 2011 #6
Dougal
Messages: 5,090
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Location: Kiwiland
your doing good Bloc, look forward to more info as you move ahead.
i never knew you needed a puller to get the pump off... interesting.
crushers, Nov 26, 2011 #7
crushers
post ho
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Joined: Feb 10, 2004
Location: Tara Ontario
rchalmers3 said:
I just did a search and Wikipedia has the same HP and torque numbers for the T and
TE. Do you happen to know the real figures?
The light research I have done in the past 30 minutes indicates that some markets may
have higher emission standards and only accepted the TE. Apparently if the vehicle has
an automatic tranny you get the TE as well.
bloc
SILVER Star
At peak, yeah. But, if you look at a dyno plot the -TE would have more mid-range
torque/hp on account of its dynamic timing, and would in theory get more mileage
Messages: 2,326
Likes Received: 1,489 with the same amount of power.
Joined: Sep 19, 2008 In theory.
The bit about emissions and the automatic makes sense...
Dougal said:
Nice writeup. Is the remaining plug on the 4M40 pump just for fuel shutoff or are there
other functions too?
The big black plug has wires for the fuel cut solenoid, the tach pickup (simple VR
sensor getting signal from the teeth on the governor gear), and the weird
mitsubishi fuel bypass solenoid, which is the green cap protruding backward from
under the boost compensator. I'll detail that more later.
crushers said:
i never knew you needed a puller to get the pump off... interesting.
Yeah, and Like I said, people often have a lot of trouble getting the original pumps
out.
bloc, Nov 26, 2011 #8
Ok.. back at it.
So a few modifications are needed to make this fit on a 1KZ.
Mitsubishi used an odd fuel supply line system on this pump. I'm not entirely sure
of the purpose, and there are really only 2 possibilities, but here's my
interpretation of it.
bloc
Volkswagens have a thermostatic bypass built into the fuel filter that allows diesel
SILVER Star
fuel coming out of the pump to re-enter the fuel filter then pass back into the inlet
of the pump, at least until the extra fuel is coming out of the pump warm enough
Messages: 2,326
Likes Received: 1,489 to not need the bypass. This keeps the fuel in the pump as warm as possible.
Location: Austin, TX Mitsubishi has installed a bypass solenoid into the outlet of the pump. When given
+12v, it allows fuel to flow into a port that Ts into the fuel pump inlet. In my
thinking anyway, they had this system on a timer that allowed the fuel that would
normally return to the tank be fed to the inlet and help warm the pump.
Another possibility, and I forgot to measure the orifice sizes, is that the
"second"/bypass outlet has a smaller hole also. This would in theory provide more
back pressure within the pump, which should give more timing advance whenever
the solenoid is activated.
All of this requires a pretty complicated fuel supply/return hard line, which is in
the first and second pics.
The third pic is the special outlet solenoid.
bloc, Nov 26, 2011 #9
Very interested in this, thanks for sharing!
IanB, Nov 26, 2011 #10
IanB
SILVER Star
Messages: 3,330
Joined: Jan 23, 2010
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Here is a page with some more detailed photos on the fuel recirculation system.
I'm not sure I agree with all of his analysis, but either way the photos are good
toward the bottom: Mitsubishi Delica fuel system - Biopowered
This setup won't work without modification on the 1KZ. The fuel supply line
running along the engine side of the pump gets in the way of the 1KZ dipstick
tube, and the back end of it (where the return line Ts into the supply line) hits a
coolant hose nipple coming out from the cover over the oil cooler on the 1KZ
bloc
block.
SILVER Star
My initial reaction was to just remove the whole system, but to my knowledge
Messages: 2,326
Likes Received: 1,489 they calibrate the pump timing advance curve on an individual basis, and with the
Joined: Sep 19, 2008 orifice in the outlet solenoid being the primary means to control pump case
Location: Austin, TX pressure and therefore timing, I decided to leave the solenoid and modify the line.
I don't have pics, but I cut the T in the fuel supply line about a half inch from the
banjo fitting and temporarily capped it with rubber fuel hose and a plug. It would
be smarter long-term to braze this outlet shut, and that is what I plan to do.
Without the solenoid energized the pump will try to send most of the excess fuel
through the other leg of the banjo fitting, right out the fuel return line like a
normal fuel pump. The only real drawback is the extra large solenoid and banjo
fitting taking up valuable real estate on the side of the engine.
I then used the fuel supply line from my 1KZ-TE pump, which bolted right on to
the 4M40 pump.
Speaking of the outlet bypass solenoid, it is big enough that it requires moving the
factory coolant line going from the oil cooler cover to the throttle body. I had
already installed an intercooler and moved my throttle body, so this mod was done
anyway... but it looks like it would be required to fit the 4M40 pump. The lower
coolant hose can be simply bent up and back to the other nipple below the intake
manifold.
Other slight tweaks to the 4m40 pump:
Remove the pump support bracket on the bottom of the pump

Remove the harness/fuel line support bracket on the back of the pump
Remove the cold start advance module and cover the hole
Remove the Mitsu TPS module, and clean the pump of random support brackets
for the module and fuel lines
On my engine I have an intercooler pipe running very close to the pump, so I
removed the factory Mitsu idle stop bracket, and cut the leg hanging off the
bottom of the throttle arm that is pushed by the cold-start module to raise the idle
Since I removed the factory idle stop, I got a normal Bosch VE idle stop screw
That clears the way for the 4M40 pump to be physically installed, but the fun isn't
over there.
I had trouble figuring out what to do to time the pump. I couldn't source timing
specs for the 1KZ-T, plus they may not be valid with the difference in plunger
diameter. With the similarities between the 4M40 and 1KZ-T (2.8L IDI TD/3.0L IDI
TD) I decided to use the 4M40 timing specs as a starting point.
In the 4M40 manual there are a range of specifications, depending on market and
other factors. They look for .039" plunger lift at 7*ATDC for a 2001 Pajero Turbo
non-EGR engine, 6*ATDC for 94-96 Pajero "for EFTA" (emissions thing?), and
numbers ranging from 9-12* for Turbo Pajeros from different markets, mostly with
EGR.
Seeing as my engine does not have a functioning EGR system anymore, I went for
the 7* number. Thing is, with no modifications the pump can only be advanced to
hit the specified plunger lift at around 15*ATDC. This is retarded enough to keep it
off the scale of ANY published timing figure, so something had to be done.
I removed the pump and enlarged the slotted mounting holes. To get the 8* I was
looking for, I had to increase the size of the holes .25" in a clockwise direction,
facing the front of the pump. I didn't have a die grinder bit small enough for this,
so I just used a .25" drill bit chucked up in the die grinder.
.25" got me to the specified lift at exactly 7*ATDC. This tilts the pump toward the
engine quite a bit, making the engine-side mounting nut quite difficult to get to.
QUITE difficult. I actually had to find 2-12mm box-end wrenches that had slightly
different indexing in the "box" end, and alternate wrenches to get the nut tight.
Fortunately I won't need to mess with it much.
Fuel lines bolted up very well, though you could tell the fuel pump was tilted pretty
well.
I bolted the timing belt system back together, hooked up the fuel lines, and
primed the pump with a mity-vac. I then ran a simple wire to the fuel cut solenoid,
and cracked 2 fuel lines. After approx 15 seconds of cranking it fired on the 2
cylinders, so I tightened the others, and it fired up and idled perfectly.
More to come...
Last edited: Nov 26, 2011
bloc, Nov 26, 2011 #11
helipilot77 likes this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zrz0OvHd-9A
Anyone know how to embed vids on this forum?
A couple more pics:
I addressed the glow plugs which are normally controlled by the ECU by installing
a simple momentary push button switch on the dash. I didn't need glow plugs to
bloc
fire it up the first time, so I doubt it will be getting used much.
SILVER Star
The other pic.. tells a lot. Since I ditched the automatic, and the electronic pump,
Messages: 2,326
Likes Received: 1,489 I no longer needed the vast majority of the wires in my harness. I didn't count
Joined: Sep 19, 2008 exactly, but I seem to remember it being over 60 wires previously, which is now
Location: Austin, TX down to 12. 3 for the speedo, 2 for reverse lamps, 1 for the 4wd indicator, 1 for
water temp gauge, 1 for oil pressure, 1 for the fuel cut solenoid, 1 for the glow
plug relay, and 2 for the tach pickup.
Initially I was going to use the tach pickup within the pump for my tach signal, but
I'm not sure my SGI-8 will process the signal from so many teeth on the governor
gear. I decided to move the tach pickup to the now-unused crank angle sensor. I
haven't quite got that part working yet, but the wires are there.
Last edited: Nov 27, 2011
bloc, Nov 26, 2011 #12
That's pretty much where I'm at now. I've re-purposed wires from the harness for
the particular functions I need, removed the ECU and integrated everything into
the chassis harness, and am waiting to get the tach working before I close up the
engine harness with tape and conduit.
My only other major concern is perhaps one of the biggest with the whole project:
throttle linkage.
bloc
The Denso 1KZ-T pump has a throttle lever that you push to get more power. This
SILVER Star
pump has a lever that you pull. This, and the cost of the parts ($130) makes the
option of buying the factory throttle linkage less of an attractive one. I've seen
Messages: 2,326
Likes Received: 1,489 pics of one engine with a 4m40 pump in which they modified the linkage to pull
Joined: Sep 19, 2008 instead of push.. and that may be what I do eventually, but I'm going to try
Location: Austin, TX something first.
It wouldn't be too difficult to build a bracket that mounts on the pump and allows
the throttle cable to pull the lever. Thing is, the cable will be in the way of the oil
filter for oil changes. I'm considering just making the cable easy to remove for oil
changes.. and this may be the temporary setup. Perhaps long-term I modify the
1KZ-T linkage.. will see how this works out.
The other thing I need to sort out is the lack of a brace under the back of the
pump like both the 1KZ-T/TE, and 4M40 have. I assume they do this to remove
stress from the timing gear housing. Fabricating a simple bracket wouldn't be too
difficult, it's just pretty tight down there to get any fab work done. Also,
consideration needs to be made to preserve the ability to adjust pump timing, so
one of the anchor points needs to be easily adjustable. The guy I've conversed
with that has this pump already has no bracket, and no problems.. but I'm not
quite comfortable with that yet. All 3 of those engines had a bracket (just like my
TDI and most other injection-pump-type diesels) for a reason, probably a good
one.
I plan on getting an EGT gauge soon, or at least before I start messing with the
fuel screw. I'll fiddle with the timing by feel/sound until I get the EGT setup in.
bloc, Nov 26, 2011 #13
AND, it's already been brought up in an email, so I figure I'll post my thinking on
the subject here.
To avoid having to machine the mounting slots, I came up with the idea of just
moving the timing gear in the case to get the offset I needed to put the pump in
the ballpark. Thing is, the camshaft is driven by a timing belt that is driven by the
pump timing gear. Any offset to that gear would also offset the timing belt and
cam. The timing belt pulleys are both odd-numbered, and unless the timing gear
bloc
had a multiple of that number of teeth, I wouldn't be able to offset the timing belt
SILVER Star
by a tooth. That, plus the fact that I'd have to open the timing case (something I
wanted to avoid if at all possible), resulted in me just slotting the holes beyond
Messages: 2,326
Likes Received: 1,489 stock.
Location: Austin, TX So far you guys are pretty much caught up on my progress. If you have any
questions, let me know. I'll definitely be keeping this thread updated as I sort out
the other small issues.. but so far I'm convinced this is a great option for the 1KZ-
TE engine. For anyone considering a 1KZ-TE swap, it should be noted that you can
buy the pump and throttle linkage for around the amount of money you'd get for a
good used 1KZ-TE pump and ECU.. resulting in a mechanical pump 1KZ. That
would require ditching the automatic, or using an aftermarket transmission
controller (these are commonly used by Supra guys). That makes the whole swap
far more attractive from my perspective.
-Justin
bloc, Nov 26, 2011 #14
Hey great write up, I have gone down the mechanical pump route to on my
1KZTE, best mod you can do for these engines in my view, you have so much
scope in what you can do with them, really makes these engines come alive,Im
running over 21 pound of boost Ive done over 60,000 km no problems, and since
ive done it im getting over a hundred km more per tank, Just shows how well you
can tune them,
Landcruiser Power, Nov 27, 2011 #15
Landcruiser Power
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Joined: Nov 26, 2011
outstanding write up and information thanks for sharing !
Tapage, Nov 27, 2011 #16
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panam
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Messages: 22,842
Joined: Apr 4, 2003
Location: Panam
Landcruiser Power said:
Hey great write up, I have gone down the mechanical pump route to on my 1KZTE, best
mod you can do for these engines in my view, you have so much scope in what you can
do with them, really makes these engines come alive,Im running over 21 pound of
boost Ive done over 60,000 km no problems, and since ive done it im getting over a
hundred km more per tank, Just shows how well you can tune them,
bloc
If I end up with anything close to that mileage increase I'll be very happy. I always
SILVER Star
was a little disappointed by the fuel efficiency I could attain.. especially given what
Messages: 2,326
was openly touted as common with these engines in this chassis.
Joined: Sep 19, 2008 And extra power wouldn't hurt either...
bloc, Nov 27, 2011 #17
bloc said:
If I end up with anything close to that mileage increase I'll be very happy. I always was
a little disappointed by the fuel efficiency I could attain.. especially given what was
openly touted as common with these engines in this chassis.
And extra power wouldn't hurt either...
Dougal What fuel economy are you getting? The 1KZ isn't fantastic for fuel economy, but
it's certainly not bad.
Dougal, Nov 27, 2011 #18
Messages: 5,090
Likes Received: 256
Location: Kiwiland
Stock with the automatic, about 21, in town or on the freeway, staying at 65 or
below..
Add the 5spd, 3.73s, and intercooler, and I average about 24mpg if I take it easy
and stick to around 65mph.
There are a couple people I trust seeing high 20s, and one or two I don't claiming
30 or more (imagine that...) . So if this puts me in the upper half of the 20s ill be
bloc
excited. Especially because it effectively cost me nothing. (The pump swap
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anyway)
Messages: 2,326 bloc, Nov 27, 2011 #19
US or IMP gallons?
I don't own one myself, but the owners I know here are talking up to 11km/l (9
litres/100km or 31 UKMPG) for open road. Others that don't do much open road
are around 8km/l (12.5l/100km or 23 UKMPG).
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Dougal, Nov 27, 2011 #20
Dougal
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Location: Kiwiland
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What is the purpose of swapping the injection pump?

What is the purpose of swapping the injection pump?

What are the pros and cons of the original Denso pump vs the Mitsubishi 4M40 pump?

What are the pros and cons of the original Denso pump vs the Mitsubishi 4M40 pump?

11/27/2017 1KZ-T..

No longer TE (Mitsu 4m40 pump swap) | IH8MUD Forum

Home Forums Vehicle Tech Forums Diesel Tech / 24 volts

1KZ-T.. No longer TE (Mitsu 4m40 pump swap)

So, as promised, I'm getting a thread started detailing my ongoing pump-swap.

4M40 is a 2.8 liter mitsubishi turbodiesel engine, with a factory intercooler. It is

bloc, Nov 25, 2011 #1

bloc, Nov 25, 2011 #2

Great info there Bloc, thanks for the post.

Cheers and best wishes with the swap.

Dougal, Nov 26, 2011 #6

crushers, Nov 26, 2011 #7

The bit about emissions and the automatic makes sense...

Ok.. back at it.

So a few modifications are needed to make this fit on a 1KZ.

bloc, Nov 26, 2011 #9

Very interested in this, thanks for sharing!

IanB, Nov 26, 2011 #10

Other slight tweaks to the 4m40 pump:

Remove the pump support bracket on the bottom of the pump

bloc, Nov 26, 2011 #11

helipilot77 likes this.

Anyone know how to embed vids on this forum?

A couple more pics:

Last edited: Nov 27, 2011

bloc, Nov 26, 2011 #12

outstanding write up and information thanks for sharing !

Tapage, Nov 27, 2011 #16

Landcruiser Power said:

And extra power wouldn't hurt either...

Dougal, Nov 27, 2011 #20

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