Industrial Tour

Knit dyeing
Knit dyeing is a technique of dyeing the knitted fabrics. The dyeing of knitted fabrics occurs in the
exhaust method or in batch-wise process. Knit dyeing process is near similar to yarn dyeing process but
there is some difference in quality measurement. Generally all types of single jersey, double jersey and
their derivatives are dyed by different way. Flowchart of knit fabric dyeing describe shortly.

Sequence of Operation for Knit Fabric Dyeing:

Grey fabric inspection

Batching

Fabric turning

Loading to the m/c

Pre-treatment (Scouring & Bleaching)

Dyeing

Dewatering

Drying

Compacting & Calendaring

Final inspection & packing

Batch Preparation:
Batching is the receiving section of grey fabric. Fabric dyeing or wet processing is started with
batching or batch preparation where fabric is weighted as per machine capacity and the fabric is
turned to inside out in case of body fabric i.e. main fabric of garments. This process is
called planning for dyeing.
 Flow Chart of Batch Preparation for Dyeing
Getting direction from from Grey In-charge
(Taking batch card)

Make the priority as per dyeing plan

Take one specific Batch card.

Read the Batch Card for own understanding

Check the availability of fabric

Take required quantity of body fabric from warehouse.

Make required no. of Rope maintaining equal length.

Take collar/cuff as per size, keep the total weight.

Distribute the collar /cuff or Rib in each rope equally unsure equal length

Stitch the fabric

Write down the weight against roll no. in the back side of the Batch Card.

Write the total weight in Batch Card.

Put signature & date.

Fill up the production report form.

Send for the Production
Winch Dyeing Machine
This is one kind olddyeing machine for fabrics in rope form with stationary liquor and moving material
system. The machine is operated at a maximum temperature of 950 1000 C for open bath winch but
for closed winch, the machine operates at a maximum temperature of 1300 1600 C. The liquor ratio is
generally quite high (1:20 1:40) for open bath winch and for closed or high temperature winch the
liquor ratio is 1:8 to 1:10.

The system includes a vat with a front slant side acting as chute for the folded rope,
while the rear side is entirely stay vertical. A perforated separating material, positioned
at a distance of 15-30 cm from its vertical side, creates an interspace for heating and
also for giving reagents. Heating is supplied by means of direct or indirect steam
heating. The motion of fabric is driven by a circular elliptic winch coated with a special
blanket to avoid the fabric slipping during the dyeing operation with subsequent possible
fabric scratches.
The rope to be dyed then passes through a rack on the vertical perforated divider,
which ensures the separation of the various folds of the rope and avoids possible
entangling; the rope is then transferred onto the cylinder, which guided the fabric during
the lifting from the vat carrying out a partial squeezing with subsequent liquor exchange.
The rope (carried by the winch) folds while passing through the liquor. Surely when the
fabric will be loaded into the machine it is necessary to sew the tail with the head of the
rope (the fabric must be sewn according to the grain line or direction).
The maximum motion speed of the fabric must be approximately 35m/min to 40
m/min, as higher speeds could cause peeling; an excessive rope beating with
subsequent entanglement. The fabric must not be folded and kept stationary inside the
vat for more than two and half minutes to avoid possible defects or wrinkles; therefore the
rope must be relatively short.
The winch dyeing method is preferable for all fabrics (especially for knit and light weight
woven fabrics), except those which tend to originate permanent creases or which could easily
distort under the winch stretching action (due to their fibre or structure composition).
This machine is mostly used for pre-dyeing treatments (scouring, washing, bleaching)
since the high liquor ratio ensures excellent results; when used for dyeing treatments this
system requires high energy consumption, extensive use of auxiliaries, dyes and water, which
leads to high operating costs; furthermore, an inaccurate temperature control (the liquor does
not move and the heating system is assembled only on one end) and the limited freedom of the
rope folds could negatively affect the dyeing results.
This is one of the oldest systems used for finishing treatments, but it proves to be still
extremely functional thanks to its flexibility in its use, above all for scouring and bleaching
treatments to be carried out on small production runs. This is the system which can also be
used for carrying out continuous washing processes; the fabric is loaded from one side, driven
through the machine with a spiral motion (by means of the rack) and then unloaded from the
opposite side.

Turning Machine
Normally turning is done for those fabrics which are not same in both face & back to protect the
face side of fabric from any dust, spot, other color, machine corrosion or any visual or physical
disturbance.The machine by which counting of rolls & face/back side of fabric is opened is
called turner machine.

Special feature of turning m/c:

Fabric turning face side to back side by cylinder.
Delivery per hours = 417 kg.
A large cylinder present
Two pipes for blowing air
An engine inside of the machine
Two rollers (for delivering the fabric) on the upper side of the machine.
3 buttons two for start two pipes individually the other is for stop the machine.
The necessity of turning:
To remove some dirt from the fabric.
To count the number of rolls.
To make back side of appear on face side as required.
To make some identification on fabric.
To adjust all the rolls together with hand.
 E.g. Some fabrics can be cut at the bottom side in fabric times and some are not (the fabric which
are cut during turning is also cut after weight measurement at the top side of the fabric and also a
card is supplied by the people who takes the weight of the fabric.
To make the back face side as required for a fabric.
To adjust all the rolls together with hand by knot for a nozzle.
They fulfill the turning row in process Route card and also fulfill the particular turning
books. Then, it goes for sewing.
Fabric turning table:
Which fabrics are turning
by m/c?
Which fabrics are not turning by m/c?
Lycra single jersey (Turn over by
hand).
CVC Fleece (Turn over by hand).
11 Lycra Rib.
Collar and Cuffs.
Special Note: -CVC fleece fabric is
turned over by hand because, due to
Single Lacoste. pressure of machine padder, it may be
Double Lacoste. stained on fabric, which can create more
11 Rib. problems during dyeing and brushing.
22 Ribs. -Lycra single jersey Turning two times.

Fabric Light Box or Textile Light Box

A standardized fabric light box or textile light box is used for visual assessments to maintain
consistency in light source, viewing area and presentation of sample.All shade assessment
and colour matching must be carried out in a purpose built colour matching cabinet named
Fabric light box or textile light box which can be purchased from several manufacturers in
various sizes. The most popular example being Verivide. To reduce the subjective
element of visual colour assessment, the viewing environment must be controlled.

All fabric light box or textile light box must be fitted with the following light sources:

D65 Artificial Daylight (e.g. Verivide F20 T12/D65 BS 950 Pt.1, Philips
MCFE 20W/84)
TL84 Store Light
F Tungsten Filament (Illuminant A) (e.g. GE 40W Opal)
UV Ultra Violet Light Blacklamp (e.g. Sylvania F20 T12/BLB)
Application of Textile Light Box
 Textile Light Box which use filters to provide light source should not be used. The following
maintenance requirements must be observed:
The tubes must be replaced after 2000 hours of use and should be cleaned frequently.
Please keep a record of all replacement dates and check the counter regularly.
Cabinets must be kept clean, in good repair and free of non-essential items such as
documents and fabric samples.
The cabinet must be painted regularly (at least annually) internally with Crown Colour Plan
14.40D Munsell N6.5
Cabinets must be positioned to avoid ingress of direct outside light into the cabinet.
Alternatively the cabinet front may be surrounded by a black curtain to block out stray light.
An alternative to the cabinet could be a purpose built room, which totally blocks out outside
light, is lit with the correct light sources to an adequate level, is completely painted with the
correct colour and is kept free of non-essential items.
Guideline for Fabric Light Box or Textile Light Box
For all orders please follow the below guideline:

You need a close colour match in D65 and a reasonable match in TL84. (D65 is the most
important light source for checking). Both light sources must be used separately.
The Tungsten light (F) should be used to check for colour flaring, this is particularly
important for colours made from yellow and red dye. The UV light is used to pick up the
presence of optical brightening agents and fluorescent dyestuffs and is particularly
useful for checking whites.
Only one light source should be used at any given time, it is not acceptable to use two
different light sources simultaneously.
Example of Spectra Light III Color Viewing Booth, Type D412F
The Spectra Light color viewing booth uses our patented filtered tungsten halogen light
source to give you the worlds most accurate simulation of natural daylight. It features six
different levels of lighting: Daylight (D75, D65 or D50), Illuminant A (home lighting),
Horizon, Ultraviolet, and dual fluorescent sources (choice of Cool White Fluorescent, TL84
or U30). SpectraLight features SmartLogic technology for accelerated throughput with
faster color approvals. Using the booths digital display, you can easily program a
sequence of different light sources for hands-free viewing, maximizing operator efficiency
and productivity.
Specification of lab light box 1
Model light source
Brand: Tilo, Origin: China
Light Source: na
D-65 ( Verivide UK) : na or 01 set
TL-84 Verivide, UK : na or 01 set
CWF Sylvania : 01 set
Inca A Crompton, UK : na or 01 set
UV Sylvania : na or 01 set
TL-83 Philips, Holland : 01 set
Specification of lab light box 2
 Model- CAC 60
Fitted with below light options
D65 ~ Artificial Daylight
TL84 ~ 840P15
F ~ Tungsten Filament Light
UV ~ Ultra Violet Light
Interior Color-Grey 5574
Brand: Verivide, Origin: UK.
Maintenance of light box (Lamp Change)
Light box: The light box must have neutral grey walls with a non-shiny surface on the
inside. The grey tone should be similar to Munsell N7, N5 or Grey 5574(previously called
matt emulsion smokey pine 14-40d).

To reduce the subjective element of visual colour assessment, the viewing environment
must be controlled.

A standardized lighting cabinet is used for visual assessments to maintain consistency in

light source, viewing area and presentation of sample.

Buyer Wise:
H&M: The lamps should be changed after 1300 hours use or after 12 months, whichever is
the sooner.

TESCO: Only use lamps supplied by the original manufacturer. Replace the lamps
according to the users manual or every 4000 hours. Service/calibrate the cabinet on an
annual basis and keep a service log for future inspection.

M&S: All Tubes or bulbs, except ultra violet tubes, must be replaced after 2000 hours or six
month, whichever is the sooner.

Auto: The lamps should be changed after 1300 hours use or after 12 months, whichever is
the sooner if needed.

Visual Assessment All Lab Dips & Non-Accredited Suppliers

Lighting Cabinets and Standard Illuminants
To reduce the subjective element of visual colour assessment, the viewing
environment must be controlled.
A standardised lighting cabinet is used for visual assessments to maintain
consistency in light source, viewing area and presentation of sample.
The following cabinets are approved by TESCO:
Verivide CAC60, CAC120 or CAC150
 Datacolor CMB Color Matcher 2028 / 2540
Gretag Macbeth Spectralight 111
Only use lamps supplied by the original manufacturer. Replace the lamps
according to the users manual or every 4000 hours. Service/calibrate the
cabinet on an annual basis and keep a service log for future inspection.
The required light sources for TESCO are as follows:
Light Source Use For Required Result
Primary Light Source D65
Artificial Daylight
All swatches Good match
Secondary Light Source TL84
General Store Light
All swatches Good match
For Checking only Tungsten (F)
General Domestic Light
To check colour constancy Do not use for
matching
For Checking only Ultra Violet (UV) To check for Optical
Brighteners/Fluorescent dyes
Do not use for
Matching
GUIDELINE TO USING THE LIGHT CABINET (LIGHT BOX)
All shade assessment and colour matching must be carried out in a purpose built colour
matching cabinet (light box), which can be purchased from several manufacturers in various
sizes. The most popular example being Verivide.
All cabinets must be fitted with the following light sources:

D65 Artificial Daylight (e.g. Verivide F20 T12/D65 BS 950 Pt.1, Philips
TL84 Store Light
F Tungsten Filament (Illuminant A) (e.g. GE 40W Opal)
UV Ultra Violet Light Blacklamp (e.g. Sylvania F20 T12/BLB)
Cabinets which use filters to provide light source should not be used.

The following maintenance requirements must be observed:

The tubes must be replaced after 2000 hours of use and should be cleaned frequently.
Please keep a record of all replacement dates and check the counter regularly.
Cabinets must be kept clean, in good repair and free of non-essential items such as
documents and fabric samples.
The cabinet must be painted regularly (at least annually) internally with Crown Colour Plan
14.40D Munsell N6.5
Cabinets must be positioned to avoid ingress of direct outside light into the cabinet.
Alternatively the cabinet front may be surrounded by a black curtain to block out stray light.
An alternative to the cabinet could be a purpose built room, which totally blocks out outside
light, is lit with the correct light sources to an adequate level, is completely painted with the
correct colour and is kept free of non-essential items.
For all orders please follow the below guideline:

You need a close colour match in D65 and a reasonable match in TL84. (D65 is the most
important light source for checking).

Both light sources must be used separately.

The Tungsten light (F) should be used to check for colour flaring, this is particularly
important for colours made from yellow and red dye.

The UV light is used to pick up the presence of optical brightening agents

and fluorescent dyestuffs and is particularly useful for checking whites.

Only one light source should be used at any given time, it is not acceptable to use two
different light sources simultaneously.

Colour samples should not look noticeably different in different lights.

For further guidelines on how to assess colour and shading please see the Buyer Fabric
Inspection Guideline.

Examplor of Color Matching Light Box

Viewing cavity of color matching light box is 1260mm wide x 545mm high x 590 deep, with
membrane switch panel, hour meter and electronic ballast control. Specify lamp
configuration from catalog. Colour samples should not look noticeably different in different
lights. For further guidelines for color matching light box on how to assess colour and
shading please see more about Fabric Light Box or Textile Light Box.