Mostly used Yarn details to produce Fabric

1. Yarn Counts (Thick to Thin)

Yarns are produced by twisting filaments or staple fibers. Generally, yarns can be divided in two main
groups. Natural and man-made (synthetic). We usually deal with natural (especially cotton) and a
blend of polyester cotton yarns. Thick yarn produces coarser and heavy fabric whereas thin yarn produces
light weight fine fabric. There are different systems of yarn measurement system in the world; the system that
we follow is called English Cotton Count, which is an indirect yarn numbering system and yarn is numbered in Ne.
Yarns are available in counts 2 to 100(?) however mostly used in our industry are
o 8s (Thicker)
o 10s
o 12s
o 14s
o 16s
o 20s
o 24s
o 30s
o 35s (Thinner)

Ply Yarns: 2 or more yarns are twisted together to make 2 or 3 ply yarns according to the
requirement of production. E.g.

o 16/2
o 10/4
o 20/2
o 30/2

Twists per Inch: As the yarn is produced by twisting, number of twists per inch (TPI) is important
to decide which yarn is suitable for your fabric. Lower twist yarn produces soft and absorbent fabrics
whereas higher twists yarn produces stiff fabric.
Tensile Strength: Tensile Strength of yarn is also measured while selecting. Good quality long
filament cotton produces more strong yarn. Higher number of twists per inch can also increase the
strength of yarn. It is measured in CLSP. More than 2000 is good and more than 2200 is excellent.
You need to tell the broker about the supposed usage of yarn so he/she may suggest you appropriate
brands.
 Some synthetic yarns are produced in long filaments without twisting them. Polyester yarn is
available in both types. Un twisted polyester yarn is numbered with Denier and the counts are 20,
50,75, 100, 150, to 600, 1000 and 1600 whereas 20 being the thinnest. There are other counts
between these as well.

Cotton Yarn Types (quality wise-Cheapest to expensive)

1. Open End -Autocoro yarn

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fdE7ol45g4

2. Carded (Ring spun) yarn

3. Combed (ring spun) yarn

4. Zero Twist yarn

https://www.cottonworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Textile_Yarns.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeik7MuQ930

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDUVkqUVHvM
Difference among them is initially the technique of yarn making. Open end is produced with
different type of machine than ring spun yarns. This machine produces low cost and low-
quality yarn. Open end yarns are only available in coarse counts (3-20).
All carded and combed yarns both are produced by ring type spinning machines. Difference
among them is the quality of cotton. Combed yarns are much softer, even, absorbent than
carded yarns.
Zero Twist yarn is usually used for towels. These have very less twists; produced with Cotton
fibers in a synthetic casing which dissolves in dyeing/finishing process

Yarn Composition (Combination of Materials)

o 100 %Cotton
o PC-Polyester Cotton with 52:48, 65:35, 40:60, 20:80 Ratio
o 100% Polyester-Non-Spun Filament Polyester yarn
o 100% Polyester-spun yarn
o Linen and Cotton Linen (Blend) Characteristics of Linen fiber??
o Bamboo and Cotton Bamboo (Blend) Characteristics of Bamboo fiber??
o Spandex-is used to make fabric stretchable or expandable. “Lycra” is a DuPont
brand of spandex. Currently Spandex, Lycra & Elastane are used interchangeably
for the fiber and fabric.

In Pakistan, Yarn is usually sold in standard bags that weigh 45.36 kg net yarn or 100 lbs.
Prices are usually quoted as PKR/10 lbs
 Mostly used Fabric details

Fabric Types (Weaving difference)

Main Types:
Woven, Terry, Knitted

Woven Fabric Types:

Plain:
This is called plain weave.
Usually there is one weft
crossing every warp thread.
There is no design visible on
fabric. Surface is plain so it is
called plain weave.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=SeG7exc7pek

Twill:
More often two types of twill are
used, 2 x 1 and 3 x 1. 2x1 is used
for lighter weight and less visible
lines. 3x1 for higher weight and
more visible lines.
Due to the uneven surface, stains
are less noticeable on twill
therefore it is preferred for sturdy work
clothing and denim.
Twill weave produce characteristics like
softness, anti-creasing, drapery in fabrics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWFaUxO8XyM

Canvas:

Canvas is a cotton plain weave fabric but

made of thick heavy yarns that are tightly
weaved. It is durable, sturdy and heavy duty. It is usually made with 2-3-4- ply yarns however
it can be produced with single yarns as well.

Satin:

Satin is a basic weave, made with several warp yarn

under one weft yarn, most commonly 4 x 1. This
weave give fabric a glossy look for which satin is
famous for. It is less absorbent and less strong.
Usually it is used for its look and where less fraction
is required.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzqxV5wyvfs

Woven fabric is produced on different types of Looms(Power Loom, Auto Loom, Shuttle Less
loom, Air jet Looms)
Woven fabric is usually sold in linear meters, with the required width. Same pattern is kept
for its dyeing/finishing process

Fabric construction in view of THREAD Numbers

 There are 2 yarns in woven fabric.

Warp and Weft.

You can say horizontal and Vertical. Number of threads per inch determines the weight and

quality of fabric. More the number of threads, higher the Weight of fabric

Some plain weave fabric constructions:

16x16-60x60 (it is called 120 T fabric, means 120 thread fabric i.e. 60+60=120)
20x20-60x60 30x30-76x68
40x40-80x100 (this will be called 180T fabric)
Where initial numbers (16x16) are the yarn count and 60x60 is the thread count (thread per
inch), 60 thread in warp and 60 in weft.
If the yarn count remains the same then the thread count determines the weight of fabric. If
the thread count remains same then the yarn count determines it.
16x16-60x60 is heavier than other two as it has the thicker yarn count.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXqSGIl6JSA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuyGKTBmU1w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POAwEN7fJjk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YswbqeCNkc&t=177s

Terry Fabric:
The fabric that has loops/pile/terry on its surface is called terry fabric. Sometimes, we get
confused by the term terry and towels. Towel is anything that is used for cleaning. Towels
 that are made of Terry fabrics are called Terry towels. Usually towels that are used in
washroom (Bath Towel, Hand Towel, Face Towel, Bath Robes, Bath Matts, Wash mitts) are
made of terry fabrics.
Terry is a woven fabric but produced with 3 yarns. 2 yarns are used for the ground of fabric
(warp and weft) and the 3rd is used for the terry loops on surface. Softness and absorbency
are the defining characteristics of a terry, and this 3rd yarn plays the most vital role in this
regard.
Terry fabric weight ranges between 250-750 gsm. 900-1500 gsm is used for bath matts.
Terry is usually produced and sold in weight (kg) however, terry made ups are sold in pieces.

Knitted Fabric Types:

o Single Jersey Knit-Usually for crew neck shirts, baby dress and fitted bed sheets. Normal range is 100-190 gsm
however, if you put spandex than it may increase to 260-280 gsm

Single Jersey Knit

o Pique Knit- Usually for Polo Shirts and some hospital uniforms. Range of weight is 100-240 gsm
 Pique Knit

o Honey Comb or Popcorn Knit- We use it for hospital bed sheets. Weight range is 100-240 gsm

Honey Comb or Popcorn Knit

 o Interlock or Double Jersey Knit- Used for heavy weight clothing. Weight range is 180-320 gsm

Double Jersey Knit

LSF-
Low
Shrinkage Fleece:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0pxhgNPgU0

Knitted fabric is usually sold in Kg, with the required gsm/fabric weight and width. Same
pattern is kept for its dyeing/finishing process

GSM
Fabric weight is mentioned /calculated as GSM- Gram per Square Meter Or (in USA) OZ-Ounce per Square
Yard
 Fabric Processes-Dyeing & Finishes
For Some basic items, fabric is used straight after removing from Looms however, for most of the time,
dyeing and some finishing process are used. Find below some commonly used Dyeing types and Finishing
types

Dyeing Types:
Bleaching:
Done to make fabric WHITE.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZW-weisNcDU

Reactive Dyeing:
most common. Used for normal washing (maximum 60 degree Celsius), reactive dyeing is
ecofriendly and use less toxic materials. Reactive dyeing is mostly used for cotton (and some
other natural fibers)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4MbpGhNrGw

VAT/Indanthrene Dyeing:
Expensive. Used for high temperature washing (90-degree Celsius)
P.S: Light Colors are cheaper and darker colors are expensive. Black being the most expensive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HQL-bgWySw

Finishing Processes:
Washing:
Washing requires water and detergent; it is done to remove impurities.
Sizing:
Sizing is the application of starch on fabric.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KT5aWXS7LU&t=364s

De Sizing:
Removal of sizing material is called desizing. It is done to make the fabric ready for further
processing e.g. printing, dyeing…
Calendaring:
Used for simply pressing the fabric. Make the fabric looks better
and iron it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3thChvHJY3w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zOyeCFHDXI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8qSX4uu0V0
Stenter:
Used to control the width and shrinkage
of fabric or to apply different finishes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4oIBABPD1w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0k4TkKRHVI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONwmy8HFyr4

Sanforizing:
It is done to stabilize the
fabric and to control
shrinkage (pre shrinking)
before making the garments
https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=gReDJ0zv_W4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=8fBY5ju_fIs

Mercerizing:

Is done to increase the

strength and luster of fabric
https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=cIEgBb3ExYI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=EcfVyaaVS6c

https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=4dlakEc2D5E
Singeing:

Is

the gassing or burning of projecting fibers to make it more uniform

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPMGHqAHL4U
 Printing
There are four types of printing that are used in our (textile) industry
1-Screen printing
-Manually on tables
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cu6EFHgZaD4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jidjz1wknG0

Table printing is manually done on

tables through screens and manually
applying color to the fabric or garment.
It is done on cut pieces of garments. Its
size can be up to 1 sqm for a single
piece. Above that size, it isn’t
manageable. After applying the color,
the fabric is then exposed to heat with
steam or direct heat to increase the fastness of colors and improve the washing ability. Table
printing is a cost-effective printing especially for small quantities and for panel printing.
Different type of colors/chemicals are used for specific characteristics as well as different looks.

-With Octopus machines

An Octopus type machine also be
used to print through screens. It is
very same as table printing but the
color is applied through machine.
This is best for highly accurate
alignment of colors in several color
prints.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iN6rxxMTa8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXhN2NIEUx8

-Through Roller Rotary Machines

Roller rotary machines do the
 printing with screens as well but for continuous repeated patterns on fabric rolls. It is cost
effective for large quantities.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9DSD96_9-4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxe-ewIDc7M

- Through Flatbed machines

Flatbed screen printing
machines is used for large
panels of fabric.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hrqUSfrSxo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSwMcHpMCrE

2- Digital inkjet printing

Fabric is printed through inkjet printer, applying the colors directly on fabric for complex and
high definition prints

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iX83kQ4AkeA

3- Sublimation Printing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOCQSoTGWlg

Sublimation is another digital printing with a different technique.

4- Heat Transfer
This type of printing is done by making a print pattern on a paper and then transfer it to the
fabric through heating.
Digital, sublimation and heat transfer works better on polyester fabrics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xiNEjJHO74

Accessories
Accessories includes but not limited to
-Zipper
Zippers are of three types.
 Coil zipper are usually made of nylon or polyester
coil and they are cheaper. They are light weight,
flexible and run smoothly. They are best for
children garments, lingerie, pockets and pouches.

Plastic molded zippers are produced with plastic

teeth directly molded and melted on the tape. The
Teeth are made of plastic. These are the most cost
effective and are good for children jackets and
bags.

Metal zipper’s teeth are made of brass, aluminum or

nickel. They are stiff, heavy and don’t runs
smoothly however they are heavy duty zippers and
are good for heavy coats and heavy-duty bags and
leather goods.
Zipper sizes (used in garments are usually 3-5-7-8-10
#)
Zippers are sold either in meters (OPEN ENDED
ZIPPERS) or in pieces of specific length (for CLOSED
ENDED ZIPPERS)

-Zipper Slider
Zipper slider can be simple, or fancy, or made of same fabric
-BUTTONS
Snap button has two parts, male and female, to close the button. Shank Buttons and Flat hole
buttons are used with KAAJ however, shank button is attached to the fabric with its own shank.
We usually use Prong or Ring type metal snap buttons, metal/plastic shank buttons, flat hole
plastic buttons. Prong type snap buttons are commonly used in 11 mm and 15mm sizes
whereas Shank and jeans buttons are used in 15 and 20 mm sizes.

Prong/Ring Type Snap Buttons Metal Snap Buttons Flat Hole Buttons Shank Buttons

-Stitching Threads
Mostly, polyester thread is preferred for garments however cotton or poly cotton are also in
use. Polyester thread is comparatively strong, has less breakage, better washing ability and less
shrinkage.
Viscose thread is used in embroidery due to its shiny look however polyester here is also better

Viscose Thread Polyester Thread for durable

color.
50/2 is
usually the
best for garment however, thick threads like 40/3 or 24/2 are used where a visible thread is
required
Stitching thread is usually sold in cones of different length. You should calculate price per
meter

-Cord
Cords are used in trousers, pajamas and bags. Cotton cord is used where biodegradable or eco-
friendly is required otherwise polyester or viscose thread do the best. Cotton cord is usually
used in cotton color, without dyeing, whereas polyester and viscose are used in matching or
contrast colors

Cotton Cord
Polyester Cord

Cord size is measured with the size of its diameter (in mm). Cords are usually sold with
weight in kgs or with length in meters
Canvas Tape/Stripe:
Canvas tapes are used as strengthening support around some products and as handles. These
stripes have different woven textures. Their size is measured in width and thickness. Width can
be somewhere between 1 cm to 5 cm, whereas, thickness can be 1mm to 7mm. You should
also know the weight per meter to calculate total weight of your product.
Canvas stripes are usually sold in meters

-Elastic
Elastic strength is measured with 1-its width, from 4mm to 5cm 2-number of rubber cords in
elastic 3-thickness of cords
 Elastic is sold in meters

-Velcro (Hook & Loop fastener)

-Stiffener/insulation foam
Polyester/PU Sheets, Eva foam or Jumbo lawn are usually used as stiffener/protector/shock
absorber/insulation. They are used in our industry in bags especially. Polyester filling is used in
pillow cases and in oven gloves.
These sheets are measured with thickness in mm or GSM and sold in square meters or square
feet.

-Care Labels/Brand Labels/Hangtags

Taffeta Label-Woven Label

-Packaging
Generally, there are two types of packing: Bulk and Retail
Bulk packing is done by packing the product directly into master cartons with only one master
poly bag. Minimum packaging is involved
Retail packing involves or may involve several packaging materials:
1-Plastic Bags:
There are two materials for these bags. PP (polypropylene) and PE(polyethylene)
Polypropylene Bags:
Polypropylene offers a high degree of clarity, making it optimal for showcasing products like
fresh foods. It provides a protective barrier without compromising visibility. Additionally, since
it prevents evaporation or exposure to bacteria, it helps to preserve products.
Polypropylene bags are useful with food, Incredibly strong and flexible, however, they tear
down easily even with a single prick. They are not tear resistant nor stretchable
Polyethylene Bags:
Polyethylene is a strong, stretchable and flexible material that is resistant to rips and tears,
making it ideal for heavy-duty packaging applications. Its semi-transparent quality also makes it
useful as a protective material as it let less sunlight to pass through.
These bags are frequently used by comic book stores and collectors for the same reason. Since
sunlight fades images and text, unprotected exposure to sun may cause books to lose their
value over time.
Other great qualities of polyethylene bags include:
  Low static charge
 Hides the details of the product
 Soft and flexible
 Resistant to dirt and dust
 100% pure material

Before making a decision, consider budget, products, and the efficient delivery of your
products to the customers.
If you sell products that do not require protective measures, price may be the deciding
factor. Polyethylene is generally more expensive due to the purity of the material and the
protection it provides.

With these two materials, we may produce different styles of bags. Bag size depends upon the
product size, however, closure style may change. We can use simple closing with additional
adhesive tape, self-adhesive tape, zipper closure or snap buttons.

These bags can be printed upon demand. There may be only care instruction or the branding
mat also be there.

Printed paper may also be used instead of printing the plastic bag. These paper are packed
inside the bag with printed face outside.

Stiffener cards may be used to give the packaging dimensional stability.

2-Board boxes:
Board boxes are of two types. Paperboard and cardboard.
Paper board boxes are made with paper of different qualities and thickness. We use best paper
made of virgin material in thicknesses ranging 200-350 gsm. Selection of material depends
upon budget.
Cardboard boxes are made of 3ply card (2 paper cards and a corrugated card in between).
There are different styles of boxes. You may select one according to the product, stacking
requirement and marketing requirement.
You may also go for a transparent plastic window (or several windows) in the box so the
consumer may see the product without opening it.
These boxes are usually printed with product pictures, designs and texts. It all depends upon
marketing requirements.
Size of the box is carefully decided keeping in mind the courier charges and shipping
requirements, to keep the charges as low as possible.
3-Fabric Bags:
Some bedding brands sometimes go for a bag that is made of the same fabric as bedding. This
is expensive however it lets the consumer to feel the fabric without opening it.
4-Master cartons:
Above mentioned all packaging materials are used to enhance the presentation and to keep
the product safe and clean. Master cartons are used to transport the products from
manufacturer to retail outlets.
These cartons are made of 3-5-7 ply cardboard (with paper and corrugated board). Its design
and size depends upon the maximum lifting capacity, stacking/space requirement in
warehouses and containers. It must be strong enough to deliver product retail boxes safely to
the end seller.
These cartons are labelled with Company Name, product details and quantity per box.

CMT (Cut, Make, Trim)

1- Cutting-
Fabric is cut into different pieces, to be joined by different stitching machines. Cutting a
fabric need garment patterns, tables for cutting, cutting machines and fabric range laying
tools.
Garment pattern can be designed and printed through Gerber software and cut through
Gerber machines
OR
Making pattern yourself and cutting manually with machines.
Cutting tables width must be wider than the fabrics width. Tables length give you space
for long range laying which usually decreases the wastage.
Cutting machines blades should be sharp for accurate cutting.
You also need some more tools that will assist in laying a range of fabric. Fabric range
especially for terry and knitted fabric should not be more than 25 folds otherwise it will
affect the accuracy of cutting.
 Cutting should be carefully done for required quantity and its accessories.

2- Stitching -
Stitching involves
 Stitch lock machine
 Flat lock machines
 Different types of tools/folders
 3 thread overlock machines
 4 thread safety overlock machines
 5 thread safety overlock machines
 Double needle machines
 Multiple needle KANSAI machines
 Elastic attaching Tool (attached on overlock machine)
 Bar tack machines
 Snap or eyelet putting machine
 Tape/ribbon cutting machine
Work is assigned to machine operators according to the division of operations and
consumed time.
Efficiency of Stitching dept. production???
 Line supervisors keep check to ensure and maintain the quality of work as per approved
samples.

3- Inspection-Packing:

Packing department
o Crop the additional threads
o Inspect the garment
o Pack it according to the given sample.
4- Factory overheads: The expenses that aren’t being done on a specific product are
calculated as factory overhead e.g. Utility bills, machine maintenance, administrative
staff pays, certificate expenses etc.

Nishat Textile Mill tour

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlXCmQvfBqI