Woven Fabric Features

Woven Fabric Features
Dr. Jimmy Lam

Institute of Textiles & Clothing
Learning Objectives
 What are the fabric characteristics of woven

fabric
 How to distinguish between warp and weft yarn
 The purpose of selvedges
 Fabric density (warps per inch and wefts per
inch)
 Face and back of fabric
Woven Fabric Features
 There are several features common to all woven

fabrics.
 Knowledge of these fabric characteristics are needed
to understand fabric structure and suitability in
particular end uses.
 Can you name some of them?
Fabric Features
 The features are:
– Warp Yarn and Weft Yarn
– Fabric selvedge
– Yarns per inch (warp and weft)
– Face and back of fabric
– Top and bottom of fabric
 Last but not the least, the material uses (cotton, wool
or polyester) and fabric weight.
Warp and Weft Yarns
 Generally, fabrics are cut with the warp yarns
running the length of the garment, so designer
needs to know the drapability of the fabric in the
warp direction.
 Fabric technician needs to tell between warp and
weft yarn so that he can analysis the information
such as fibre content, yarn count and twist.
Warp and Weft Yarns (II)
 Warp yarns can be distinguished from weft yarn in the

following ways:
1. Selvedge: the yarn parallel to the selvedge are in the warp
direction;
2. Yarn count: warp yarns are usually thinner to reduce abrasion
when passing through the loom. If the yarn contains both
filament yarns and spun yarns, filament yarns will usually be
the warp set.
3. Twist: Generally, spun warp yarns have more twist than spun
weft yarns because warp yarn is thinner, and needs more twist
to have sufficient strength to withstand the tensions during
weaving process.
Warp and Weft Yarns (III)
4. Yarns per inch: the number of yarns per inch in warp set is
higher than in weft set. This makes the fabric stronger in the
lengthwise direction to withstand most of the tensions created
in weaving and finishing processes.
5. Ply yarn: plied (two or three yarns) yarn will be stronger than
the same single yarn, so that warp yarns are occasionally plied
to give added strength while the weft yarns remain single.
6. Stiffness: in all spun yarn fabrics, the warp yarns are generally
stiffer than weft yarns because the usually have more twist. In
pure filament fabrics, the weft yarns are usually stiffer
because they are thicker. A stiffer set of yarns will result in
less fabric drapability.
7. Stripes: most woven stripes appear in the lengthwise direction
because of cheaper produciton cost.
Selvedges (I)
 The selvedge prevents the fabric from ravelling

and the edges from tearing when the fabric is
under stresses.
 Normally, the selvedge area is made stronger
than the body by using: Heavier warp yarns;
more warp yarns per inch; piled warp yarns;
greater twist for spun yarns and different weave
Selvedge (II)
 There are three different types of selvedge produced by different
sorts of looms:
1. Plain selvedge: created with shuttle loom from the same warp yarns
and weave as the fabric body, but with higher number of warps per
inch;
2. Fringed selvedge: created from cutting weft yarns on a shuttleless
loom. To prevent unravelling, either leno weave is used or the ends
are tucked back into fabric (tuck-in selvedge)
3. Fused selvedge: can be used when fabric has higher percent of
thermoplastic fibre (polyester or nylon). The edges of the fabric are
heated, causing the fibres to melt and fuse together. Fushed
selvedge is harsh and stiff.
Plain Selvedge (Shuttle loom) Fringe selvedge (shuttleless loom)
Leno selvedge (shuttleless loom) Tuck-in selvedge (shuttleless loom)
Selvedge Problem
 If the selvedge warp yarns have greater shrinkage

during finishing, a tight selvedge occurs, resulting in
the puckering of an area near the fabric edge.
 This will be a problem when the material is spread on
the cutting table where the cloth does not lie flat.
 Cutting off the selvedge to eliminate the stress on the
fabric can eliminate the tight selvedge problem.
 The loose edge can either be fused or glued by
adhesive to prevent un ravelling.
Yarns per unit length (I)
 This is the number of warp or weft yarns in a specific

length.
1. E.g 108 X 58 : It means 108 warps yarn and 58 weft
yarn in one inch.
2. E.g 60-square plain cloth : It means 60 ends and picks
per inch
3. For a sheeting fabric, a total number of per square
inch is given.
4. E.g 140-sheeting fabric: It means 70 ends and 70
picks per inch
Yarns per unit length (II)
 Yarns per inch is also a measure of fabric quality. A higher
number of yarns per inch gives the fabric following quality:
1. Higher strength: the breaking force for 20 yarns per inch is
stronger than 10 yarns per inch
2. More weight: the weight of fabric depends on the weight of yarn
3. Better hand: More yarns grouped together produces an even
surface which gives a smooth hand feel.
4. Yarn distortion: the chance for yarn to slide by rubbing action is
reduced
5. Better abrasion resistance: more yarn groups together make them
more compact, stronger and heavier and durable against
abrasion.
Fabric face and back
 Fabrics have face and back. The face side has better
appearance and usually forms the outside of the
garment.
 The face and back of some fabrics can be distinguished
by their weave and finishes.
 For example, the face side of a satin fabric is shinier
and smoother than the back side, and the coating finish
is usually applied to the face side only
Discussion
 What are the functions of fabric selvedges and name
THREE different types of selvedges in woven fabric.
 What are the difference between the warp yarn and
weft yarn used in woven fabric, and why?
 Which of the following fabrics is lightest, assuming
each fabric is made with size 40/1 yarns? Why?
– Fabric A: 100 x 70 Fabric C:110 x 70
– Fabric B: 90 x 90 Fabric D:100 x 80

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Woven Fabric Features

Dr. Jimmy Lam

 What are the fabric characteristics of woven

 There are several features common to all woven

 Warp yarns can be distinguished from weft yarn in the

 The selvedge prevents the fabric from ravelling

 If the selvedge warp yarns have greater shrinkage

 This is the number of warp or weft yarns in a specific

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