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BACKGROUND On the labels of most premixed fertilizes, you will likely see three numbers listed. If you aren’t familiar with what they mean, the numbers represent nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium or N – P – K. These vital nutrients are needed for strong aerial growth, root development, and overall plant health, respectively.
However, plants cannot survive on N – P – K alone. There are thirteen additional chemical elements that contribute to the plant health and productivity.
Aside from the primary nutrients which we have already identified (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), plants require three secondary minerals: calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), and Sulfur (S). During photosynthesis, plants use sunlight to break water and carbon dioxide down into hydrogen (H), oxygen (O), and carbon (C); the three non-mineral nutrients which they turn into food. Boron (B), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), chloride (Cl), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), and zinc (Zn) are the necessary micro-nutrients which a plant must obtain from the surrounding soil.
The preferred method of delivery is through organic fertilizer, matched to the requirements of the plants. Inorganic fertlisers, more active than their natural counterparts, leach out of the soil with ground water, into the water table, often increasing the NPK load in the water supply. This collection of recipes offer some organically based nutrient solutions which are ecologically friendly.
The scope ranges from those that will be cost effective for a garden, to those that are scalable to use on acres.
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NATURAL FERTILISER EPSON SALTS Hydrated magnesium sulfate, aka Epsom salts contain two important elements that plants need to maintain optimum health. Magnesium plays a vital role during photosynthesis and is required by plants for the proper functioning of many enzymatic processes. Seeds also need magnesium to germinate. Sulfur aids plants with several functions including amino acid production, root growth, and the formation of chlorophyll. This mineral also gives cole crops(Brassicas like cabbage and broccoli) and Alliums their signature flavors.
Fertilize your onions, broccoli, and cabbages with Epsom salts to get healthier, sweeter-tasting vegetables. Use Epsom salts on tomatoes, peppers, and roses to grow stronger plants with more blossoms. As a general use fertilizer, Epsom salts are an inexpensive way to give plants a healthy boost of nutrients. An Epsom salt solution is also a great way to replenish magnesium and sulfur levels in depleted potting soil.
Mix a tablespoon of Epsom salts with one gallon of water and apply to garden plants as a foliar spray once every two weeks.
When feeding roses, use one tablespoon of salts per foot of the plant’s height mixed in a gallon of water. For vegetables in a garden, sprinkle a tablespoon of Epsom salts around each seedling as soon as they are transplanted. Repeat this feeding following the first bloom and fruiting.
For potted plants, dissolve two tablespoons of salts in one gallon of water and use this solution in place of normal watering once per month.
BANANA PEELS Roses love potassium. Throw one or two peels in the hole before planting or bury peels under mulch so they can compost naturally.
EGG SHELLS Wash them first, then crush. Work the shell pieces into the soil around tomatoes and peppers (sweet and hot). The calcium helps fend off blossom end rot. Eggshells are 93% calcium carbonate, the same ingredient as lime, and a tried and true soil amendment.
GRASS CLIPPINGS Rich in nitrogen, grass breaks down over time and enhances the soil. Fill a 5 gallon bucket full of grass clippings. You can even add weeds! Weeds soak up nutrients from the soil just as much as grass. Add water to the top of the bucket and let sit for a day or two. Dilute your grass tea by mixing 1 cup of liquid grass into 10 cups of water. Apply to the base of plants: Pour 2 cups around the perimeter of each SMALL plant. For MEDIUM plants pour 4 cups. For LARGE plants pour 6 cups.
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MOLASSES Using molasses in compost tea supposedly increases microbes and the beneficial bacteria that microbes feed on. If you want to start out with a simple recipe for molasses fertilizer, mix 1-3 tablespoons of molasses into a gallon of water. Water your plants with this concoction and watch them grow bigger and healthier.
FISH TEA 1. Collect fish parts and store in a freezer till need. These can be all waste fish parts including scales, bones, heads, skin, stomach and flesh (fish offal). (20 to 40 pounds for 25 gallons of water). 2. Using a cut 55 gallon metal drum, boil water and fish over a wood fire. 3. Stir and add water as needed. 4. Boil the mixture for eight hours then let sit and cool. 5. Top up the mixture with water, stir and apply to the stems of the plants of interest. 6. The previous step can be repeated till the contents are finished or the area is fertilized. This fertilizer should be used fresh within 24 hours due to its strong smell.
FERMENTED FISH TEA 1. Make a fish tea as previously described. 2. Add the fish tea to a fermenter. 3. Use 1 to 2 pound sugar per 10 gallons of fish tea to the fermenter. 4. Use 10 grams yeast per 10 gallons of fish tea. 5. Mix the yeast in a bucket and let sit for 30 minutes. 6. Add chopped water grass, waste fruits or banana flowers to the fermenter. 7. Add the yeast and sugar mixture and top up the drum with water to 3⁄4 of its total capacity. 8. Cover the fermenter. 9. Place a piece of cloth in the air lock hose and bury about 4 to 6 inches below the soil surface. 10. Let sit for 3 months. Check weekly by smelling the tip the air lock hose. 11. Them extract is ready after 3 months, the fertilizer should have a sweet smell when finished. 12. Foliar applications at 10%. Stem drench 10 to 20%. This fertilizer can be stored for 6 months.
MANURE/COMPOST TEA
Add a quantity of finished compost to a crocus bam/sack filling only a quarter of the sack. Tie the top of the sack with a string and hang into the drum. Add water to about three quarters of the drum. Add sugar at about 1 pound to every 10 gallons of water. Add an aquarium pump and airline. If no electricity is available on farm, the compost tea can be stirred manually three times a day.
The compost tea will be ready after 7 days. It can be applied foliar at concentrations of 10 to 50 percent and as a stem drench at concentrations of 50 to 100%.
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SARGASSUM SEAWEED Sargassum seaweed contains all the nutrients that plants need to survive. Almost half of the seaweed’s dry matter is made of beneficial nutrients, which plants can use. Seaweed also has noticeable impact on many soil borne pests and diseases. Sargassum seaweed in its various forms can serve as an excellent slow releasing organic fertilizer and assist with pest and disease control as it contains probiotics, which encourage the growth of healthy microbes in the soil. Sargassum Seaweed is also an effective nematode control.
Collection – The seaweed should be collected based on the needs and its destined use. The seaweed collected should be as free from sand as possible. This reduces the ability of the seaweed to compost effectively. There are a number of organisms, which grow in the seaweed that have agricultural potential. These should be collected only if the farmer has a use for them. Cleaning – The seaweed will come with salt which can have very detrimental effects on the soil and plant health. Seaweed should be allowed to sit on the farm where it can receive rainfall. After a few days of rain it can be used.
Fermented seaweed Place the seaweed in a fermenter. Add organic ingredients as needed. The ingredients will determine the nutrient content of the fertilizer obtained at the end of the fermentation. Add 1 pound sugar to every 10 gallons of water. Add yeast, soil with rotten organic material, compost or a culture of beneficial microbes. Close the fermenter, place the air lock and let sit. Based on the ingredients the fermentation period will vary. The fertiliser is ready when the contents of the drum have a sweet smell with a light hint of alcohol.
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MAKING HOT AND COLD EXTRACTIONS Plant Selection Plants selected for the extraction process should be growing vigorously and show signs of good health. The plants to be used should be freshly harvested. Essential Oil Extraction There are three main methods for extraction of the essential oils contained within the plant tissue: 1. Crushing – a mortar and pestle may be used to crush the plant parts increasing the surface area of the plant tissue and allow for a better extraction. This method is used with one of the previous ones. 2. Boiling – plant parts can be boiled for 30 to 45 minutes. This liquid is then cooled and filtered. 3. Soaking – plant parts can be soaked in water for 1 day or alcohol for a period of 1 to 28 days, in a cool dark place. They may then be filtered and used.
Storage The solutions obtained from the extraction process should be labelled and stored in a cool dark area. These solutions should never be exposed to sunlight for extended periods.
Preparing a Sop Solution (Surfectant) Half of a blue soap is taken and grated, and soap is then added to 2 litres of water and the mixture is shaken vigorously. It is then allowed to sit for 24 hours. Alter the quantity of soap per the required volume of surfactant. This surfactant is then mixed with the plant extraction to allow the active ingredients to adhere better (“stick”) to the surface of the plant or the body of the pest.
Mixing the solution (to make five gallons of mixture) 4. 250 ml of soap solution (half a soft drink bottle) 5. One part of plant extract to zero to five parts water 6. For alcohol mixtures the extracts are used at concentrations of 50, 100, and 200 parts: § 10ml to .5 litres of water for 50 parts § 10ml to 1 litre of water for 100 parts § 10ml to 2 litres of water for 200 parts
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ORGANIC PEST CONTROL Citrus oil (limonene, linalool) These are extracts from citrus peels primarily used as flea and as contact poisons against aphids and mites. Nicotine - concentrate is very poisonous if inhaled. Boil tobacco leaves and stems then let cool, add soap mixture and spray. Nicotine is a fast acting contact killer for soft bodied insects, but does not kill most chewing insects. It is less effective when applied during cool weather. Do not spray within 7 days of harvest. This plant should never be used in a cold extraction since it can be a source of mosaic virus which affects many plant species. The heat of the hot extraction will kill the virus and remove the risk of transmitting this pathogen.
Neem This is derived from the neem tree that grows in arid tropical regions. Crush and boil leaves, seeds or bark, for an hour and let cool, then add soap mixture. Extracts from the neem tree have been reported to control over 200 types of insects, mites, and nematodes. The neem spray solution should not be exposed to sunlight and must be prepared with water having a temperature between 50 and 90°F. Pregnant women should not handle neem.
Onion/Garlic brew Thinly slice the roots, stems and leaves of aromatic herbs like garlic, onion, red pepper, noni and black pepper. Add water and store overnight. Add water and a small amount of soap. Spray to plants.
Red Pepper (Capsicum) Pound/grind/blend several hot red peppers with water and drain. Mix the solution with water and spray to target pests .
Wood Ash Spray wood ash around the plant roots to control root maggots in radish, onions, cabbage and other brassicas. Encircle plants with a 3-4inch wide trench, 1-2 inches deep and fill this with wood ash to discourage snails, slugs, and cutworms. This measure will however increase the level of potassium in the soil and so should be used with caution.
Kerosene & Soap Spray Mix 1⁄4 cup of soapy water and 1⁄4 tsp of kerosene to 1 litre of water. Use only when insect infestation is severe. Excessive kerosene in the mixture will damage or kill crops.
Sour Sop Crush then boil sour sop seeds in water and let cool. Add soap mixture and spray. This mixture is useful against soft body insects.
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Clove Oil Crush then boil cloves in water, then allow to soak overnight. The extract should then be filtered and mixed with a soap mixture before use.
Guava (cold extraction) Pound young leaves and filled a plastic bottle. Cover with alcohol (above 50%) and store in cool dark place for 28 days. The alcohol extraction can be used for up to one year. Use one tablespoon of guava extract in 200 spoons of water. This mixture controls bacterial problems.
Ginger Grind 2 kg ginger and make into a paste. Mix this with 30 L water and filter. Add 1 tbsp liquid soap. Effective against caterpillars, aphids, thrips and whiteflies.
Basil Soak 100 g leaves in 1 L water overnight. Grind/blend the mixture, mix and then filter Effective against leafminer and red spider mite.
Garlic Chop 100 g garlic and soak with 2 tsp mineral or cooking oil for 24 hours. Add 2 tsp soap liquid and 1⁄2 L water and stir well. Filter and make up to 20 L with water. Effective against caterpillars, aphids, mites, thrips and whiteflies.
Marigolds Finely chop 1⁄2 kg whole marigold plants with 10 hot chilli peppers and add 15 L water. Soak overnight. Filter and add a few ml of blue soap solution before spraying. Effective against aphids and caterpillars
Papaya/Pawpaw Shred/grind/blend 1 kg papaya leaves finely and vigorously shake with 1 L water. Squeeze this through a cloth and dilute with 4 L water and 1tsp liquid soap. Effective against thrips.
Turmeric Chop 1⁄2 kg turmeric and soak overnight in 2 L water. Filter and make up to 20 L with water Effective against aphids, caterpillars and mites.
Carailla The whole plant extract in water is insecticidal.
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Bellyache bush (Jatropha gossypiifolia) and Physic nut (Jatropha curcas) The leaf and seed extracts have insecticidal properties.
Gully root (Petiveria alliacea) The whole plant extracts in water insecticidal against bugs and caterpillars.
Moringa tree Water extracts made from the branches, leaves, seeds and bark are insecticidal.
Lemon grass An extract of juice from grinding/blending the roots and diluting with water is active against insects and mites. Planting lemon grass in nematode affected soils can suppress nematode numbers.
Sage (Lantana camara) A water extracs from the leaves is insecticidal against aphids and caterpillars and repellant against the diamondback moth.
CULTURAL CONTROL Sticky traps • Made of a rigid material of a particular colour (construction paper and lolly sticks) and coated with a sticky substance (Vaseline, uhu glue) • Used to catch insects that are attracted to that color • Yellow for whiteflies and blue for thrips • Can be used for detecting insect pests, monitoring their populations or mass trapping
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