Sport 2 135, 155 and 175

Owner / Service Manual

May 2009 - Fifth Edition
 Sport 2 135, 155 and 175
Owner / Service Manual

Copyright © 1994 - 2009 by Sport Kites, Inc. dba Wills Wing, Inc. All rights reserved.
No part of this manual may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of
Sport Kites, Inc., dba Wills Wing, Inc.

September 2009 - Fifth Edition

500 West Blueridge Ave • Orange, CA • 92865 • Phone (714) 998-6359 • FAX (714) 998-0647
Internet Web address: http://www.willswing.com • E-mail: comments@willswing.com
 Contents
Introduction ...................................................................................................... 1
Disclaimer and Warning ..................................................................................... 2
Technical Information and Placarded Operating Limitations .................................... 3
Sport 2 Reassembly After Shipping and Breakdown for Shipping Procedures ............ 7
Sport 2 Set-Up Procedure ................................................................................ 10
Preflight Procedure .......................................................................................... 18
Launching and Flying the Sport 2 ...................................................................... 21
Platform Towing ............................................................................................. 24
Aerotowing .................................................................................................... 25
Trimming Your Glider in Pitch ........................................................................... 26
Speeds to Fly and Using Your Airspeed Indicator ................................................. 27
Using the VG System ...................................................................................... 28
Landing the Sport 2 ......................................................................................... 29
Sport 2 Breakdown ......................................................................................... 34
Sport 2 Stability Systems ................................................................................. 37
Sport 2 Sprog and Bridle Adjustment and Flight Testing ....................................... 38
Maintenance .................................................................................................. 40
Parts Ordering and Parts Replacement ............................................................... 41
Removing the Sail from the Airframe and Re-Installing ......................................... 44
Reinstalling the Sail on the Frame ..................................................................... 45
Glider Tuning .................................................................................................. 46
Car Top Mounting and Transport ....................................................................... 48
In Closing - A Few Final Words on Your Safety ................................................... 49
HGMA Compliance Verification Sheet ............................................................... 50
Assemby Diagrams ......................................................................................... 52
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing a Wills Wing glider, and welcome to the world wide family of Wills Wing pilots.
We are a company of pilots and aviation enthusiasts, and our goal is to serve your flying needs now and in the
future, as we have done for pilots throughout the world since 1973.
We encourage you to read this manual thoroughly for information on the proper use and maintenance of your
Wills Wing glider. If at any time you have questions about your glider, or about any aspect of hang gliding
that your Wills Wing dealer cannot answer, please feel free to give us a call.
Because there is no regulation which requires the registration of hang gliders, Wills Wing has no way to
maintain an accurate contact list of the owners of the hang gliders we manufacture. As a result, Wills Wing has
no reliable way to contact owners directly about service and safety issues. It is therefore, of necessity, your
responsibility as an owner to check periodically for service advisories and technical updates that relate to your
glider. You can do so most effectively by going to our web site at www.willswing.com. The site features
extensive information about Wills Wing gliders and products, a Wills Wing Dealer directory, a comprehensive
list of service and technical bulletins, the latest editions of owners manuals, our complete retail price list, a
search engine, email and more.
The most important contents of our internet site are the service and technical bulletins, technical articles, and
the latest editions of owners manuals. These are your best sources for safety and airworthiness advisories and
information on Wills Wing products. Many of the documents are published in Adobe Acrobat format. A free
viewer for Acrobat files is available at http://www.adobe.com. Note that the current release is 6.0. and docu-
ments may not open or display properly in earlier versions.
If you are unable to obtain service information from the web site, you can contact us by email, by U.S. mail or
by telephone.
We wish you a safe and enjoyable flying career, and, once again, welcome aboard!
Rob Kells, Mike Meier, Linda Meier, and Steven Pearson
Wills Wing, Inc.

—1—
Disclaimer and Warning
Hang gliding is a form of aviation. Like any form of aviation, its safe practice demands the consistent exercise
of pilot skill, knowledge of airmanship and weather, judgment and attention at a level that is appropriate to the
demands of each individual situation. Pilots who do not possess or exercise the required knowledge, skills and
judgment are frequently injured and killed. The statistical rate at which fatalities occur in hang gliding is
approximately one per thousand participants per year.
The Federal Aviation Administration does not require a pilot’s license to operate a hang glider. Hang gliders
and hang gliding equipment are not designed, manufactured, tested or certified to any state or federal govern-
ment airworthiness standards or requirements. Federal Aviation Regulation Part 103 states in part, "ultralight
vehicles are not required meet the airworthiness certification standards specified for aircraft or to have certifi-
cates of airworthiness" and "operators of ultralight vehicles are not required to meet any aeronautical knowl-
edge, age, or experience requirements to operate those vehicles or to have airman or medical certificates."
Wills Wing hang gliding products are not covered by product liability insurance. As a hang glider pilot, you
are entirely responsible for your own safety. You should never attempt to fly a hang glider without having
received competent instruction. We strongly recommend that you not participate in hang gliding unless you
recognize fully and wish to personally assume all of the associated risks.
Please fly safely.

—2—
Technical Information and Placarded Operating Limitations
The Sport 2 135, 155 and 175 have been tested and found to comply with the Hang Glider Manufacturers
Association (HGMA) Airworthiness Standards. The Sport 2 155 was granted an HGMA certificate of compli-
ance on November 4th, 2004 and the Sport 2 135 was granted an HGMA certificate of compliance on October
6th, 2006. As of May 2008, no application has been submitted for the Sport 2 175.
For up to date information on the HGMA certification status of any glider, please to to www.hgma.net.
The HGMA standards require:
1. A positive load test at root stall angle of attack at a speed equal to at least the greatest of:
a. 141% of the placarded maximum maneuvering speed
b. 141% of the placarded maximum rough air speed
c. 123% of the placarded speed never to exceed for at least three seconds without failure.
The required speed for the Sport 2 for this test was 65 m.p.h..
2. A negative 30 degree angle of attack load test at a speed equal to at least the greatest of:
a. 100% of the placarded maximum maneuvering speed
b. 100% of the placarded maximum rough air speed
c. 87% of the placarded speed never to exceed for at least 3 seconds without failure.
The required speed for the Sport 2 for this test was 46 m.p.h.
3. A negative 150 degree angle of attack load test at a speed equal to at least the greater of 30
m.p.h. or 50% of the required positive load test speed for at least 3 seconds without failure.
The required speed for the Sport 2 for this test was 32 m.p.h..
4. For the Sport 2 with a Vne of 53 m.p.h., pitch tests at speeds of 20 m.p.h., 37 m.p.h. and 53
m.p.h. which show the glider to be stable over a range of angles of attack from trim angle to
5. Flight maneuvers which show the glider to be adequately stable and controllable throughout
the normal range of operation.
Note: The Sport 2 has been designed for foot launched soaring flight. It has not been designed to
be motorized, tethered, or towed. It can be towed successfully using proper procedures. Pilots
wishing to tow should be USHGA skill rated for towing, and should avail themselves of all
available information on the most current proper and safe towing procedures. Suggested sources
for towing information include the United States Hang Gliding Association and the manufacturer
of the towing winch / or equipment being used. Wills Wing makes no warranty of the suitability
of the glider for towing.

Because of the design of the nose catch for the bottom front wires on the Sport 2 it is
critically important that the nose line be attached properly during platform towing
operations. In no case should the nose line be attached in such a way that there is any
possibility that the nose line can pull forward on the nose wires, nose tang or nose tang
handle, or, in any other way, contribute to disengagement of the nose wires. Please read
the section on towing for more information.

Flight operation of the Sport 2 should be limited to non-aerobatic maneuvers; those in which the
pitch angle will not exceed 30 degrees nose up or nose down from the horizon, and the bank angle
will not exceed 60 degrees. The Sport 2 is generally resistant to spinning, especially at VG
settings of less than 50% (VG middle or looser). At VG settings greater than 50% (VGM to VG

—3—
full tight), the Sport 2 becomes progressively more susceptible to spinning, though it is still
characteristically resistant to spinning. Any spin and / or the recovery from the spin may involve a
possibility of a loss of control of the glider, possibly including in flight inversion and possible
structural failure.
Recovery from a spin requires unstalling of the wing, and it is therefore critically important that in
the event of a spin, no application of nose up pitch control be held. The Sport 2 will tend to
recover from a spin once control pressures are relaxed. To recover from a spin, move to the center
of the control bar and gently pull in to position the basetube below your shoulders. Do not pull in
rapidly and do not "stuff" the bar. As the nose lowers and the angle of attack is reduced, the stall
will be broken and the spin will stop. In an aggravated spin, be prepared for the nose to pitch
down significantly, and for the glider to accelerate to a high speed during the resulting dive. Ease
the control bar out gently to recover to level flight. Recognize that such recovery will consume
significant altitude, and will result in the glider assuming an unpredictable heading and attitude.
Recovery from a spin at low altitude or in the vicinity of terrain or other aircraft may involve a
flight trajectory which intersects the terrain or another aircraft at a high rate of speed. In view of
the unpredictable nature of spins and spin recovery, Wills Wing recommends that no attempt
should ever be made to deliberately spin the glider. The Sport 2 provides the pilot with a high
degree of pitch authority, in combination with a very low twist sail. As a result, it is possible to
produce a very aggravated and severe stall, the recovery from which may involve very severe
pitch down rotation, the pilot going weightless, and the glider recovering via an unpredictable
trajectory with a significant altitude loss. Therefore, aggravated stalls should not be induced
except on landing flare.
The maximum steady state speed for a prone pilot in the recommended weight range full forward
on the control bar with the VG set full tight will range from approximately 47 m.p.h. to as high as
53 mph or more for the Sport 2, depending on wing loading, harness design and adjustment, and
glider tuning. The placarded speed never to exceed for the Sport 2 is 53 m.p.h. The Vne speed
will generally be achieved, if achievable in steady state wings level flight, for a prone pilot with
the control bar at full arms extension. The placarded maximum speed for maneuvering flight or
flight in rough air is 46 mph. This speed will be achieved for a prone pilot with the control bar
basetube approximately four to eight inches below the waist. This speed should not be exceeded
in anything other than smooth air. No abrupt maneuvering or control inputs should be made at
anything above this speed. The stall speed of the Sport 2 at maximum recommended wing loading
is 25 m.p.h. or less. The top (steady state) speed at minimum recommended wing loading for a
prone pilot with a properly designed and adjusted harness is at least 35 m.p.h.. All speeds given
above are indicated airspeeds, for a properly calibrated airspeed indicator mounted in the vicinity
of the pilot. An airspeed indicator marked with the appropriate speed ranges is available for the
Sport 2 and it is recommended that the pilot fly with this or some other airspeed indicator and use
it as an aid to comply with the placarded limitations. Refer to the section on using the airspeed
indicator for further information on speeds to fly.
The recommended hook in pilot weight range for the Sport 2 is:
Sport 2 155: 150 - 250 lbs.
Sport 2 135: 135 - 200 lbs.
Sport 2 175: 175 - 320 lbs.
Be advised that pilots with hook in weights of less than 20 lbs above minimum will find the Sport
2 more demanding of pilot skill to fly, and that pilots hooking in within 20 lbs of the maximum
will experience some relative degradation of optimum sink rate performance due to their higher
wing loading, as well as increased difficulty in foot-landing the glider in very light winds or at
high density altitudes.

—4—
A minimum USHGA Intermediate (III) level of pilot proficiency is required to fly the Sport 2
safely. Pilots are advised that the optimum proficiency level for the Sport 2 is higher than the
minimum recommended. In particular, due to the high L/D of the Sport 2, and the tendency of the
glider to retain a high L/D at higher speeds, it is important that the pilot have well developed
landing approach skills in order to insure the ability to land safely within a landing area of
restricted size. Operation of the glider by unqualified or under qualified pilots may be dangerous.
Operating the Sport 2 outside of the above limitations may result in injury and death. Flying the
Sport 2 in the presence of strong or gusty winds, or turbulence may result in loss of control of the
glider which may lead to injury and death. Do not fly in such conditions unless you realize and
wish to personally assume the associated risks. The Sport 2 was specifically designed and
developed for recreational soaring, to achieve the maximum level of performance possible at the
minimum practical glider weight. The stability, controllability, and structural strength of a
properly maintained Sport 2 have been determined to be adequate for safe operation when the
glider is operated within all of the manufacturer specified limitations. No warranty of adequate
stability, controllability, or structural strength is made or implied for operation outside of these
limitations. The Sport 2 is specifically not designed, nor is it suitable for aerobatic maneuvers.
Because of the Sport 2's broad speed range and high degree of aerodynamic efficiency it is
possible to exceed the placarded VNE speed by a wide margin, and, as a result, it is possible if
abrupt maneuvers are performed at such very high speeds to induce loads on the structure beyond
those for which the glider has been tested. Wills Wing is well aware that pilots have in the past,
and continue in the present to perform maneuvers and fly in conditions which are outside the
recommended operating limitations for their gliders. Please be aware that the fact that some pilots
have exceeded these limitations in the past without dangerous incident does not imply or insure
that the limitations may be exceeded without risk. We do know that gliders which meet all current
industry standards for airworthiness can suffer and have suffered in-flight structural failures, both
as a result of turbulence, and as a result of various deliberate maneuvers outside the placarded
operating limitations, including, but not necessarily limited to aerobatics. We do not know, and
cannot know, the full range of maneuvers or conditions which may cause the pilot’s safety to be
compromised, nor can we test the glider in all possible circumstances.

—5—
Glider Owner’s Manual Addendum
Falcon 3 – Sport 2 – U2
We have introduced a new bolt, nut and nut cap assembly configuration for the crossbar – leading
edge junction on Falcon 3’s, Sport 2’s and U2’s, and for the separate crossbar -side wire junction
on Sport 2’s and U2’s. The photos below show an example of the new assembly as installed on
the Falcon 3 Tandem. In each assembly, a ¼ inch clinch nut (10N-1740) is used in combination
with a long enough bolt to provide several threads exposed beyond the nut, and then the nylon nut
cap is threaded onto the end of the bolt.

Installation of clinch nut Nylon nut cap installed above clinch nut
The nylon nut cap pictured is item 15A-2010 NYLON THREADED NUT CAP 1/4 28
The nylon nut cap serves as a wear protector, and also, in effect, provides a visual check that the
nut is adequately engaged on the bolt, because the nut cap can only engage if there are threads on
the bolt extending beyond the nut.

Note: Although the nylon nut cap has the appearance of an acorn nut, it is not a
structural part, and must not be used as a fastener in any application.

The original assembly configuration for all of these assemblies included a bolt, castle nut, and
small safety ring. A later, interim configuration used a clinch nut and safety ring. The change to
the clinch nut and nylon nut cap is intended to address a number of problems with each of these
configurations.
When installing the clinch nut on the bolt, it should be tightened down until all slack is taken up,
and then backed off just enough to all the secured parts to swivel under light to moderate pressure.
The nylon nut cap is then installed onto the bolt as far as it will go – do not over tighten or you
will strip the nylon threads.
The following bolt changes are required to provide sufficient threads to engage the nut cap:
Falcon 3 145, 170, 195 No changes required – may change to A type (no hole)
Falcon 3 Tandem AN4-32 changed to AN4-33 (or 33A)
Sport 2 62mm Xbar/side wire AN4-32 changed to AN4-33 (or 33A)
Sport 2 175 66mm xbar Xbar/side wire – AN4-33 changed to AN4-34 (or 34A)
U2 Xbar/side wire AN4-30 changed to AN4-31 (or 31A)
Sport 2 Xbar/Leading Edge AN24-46 changed to AN4-27 (or 27A)
U2 Xbar/Leading Edge No changes required – may change to A type (no hole)

—6—
Sport 2 Reassembly After Shipping and Breakdown for Shipping
Procedures
The Sport 2 can often be shipped full length, without having the rear leading edges removed. If your
glider has been "broken down" for shipping, follow these procedures to reinstall the rear leading
edges. The front leading edge is 50mm (1.97") oversleeved with 52mm (2.05") at the nose and
crossbar junction. The rear leading edge is 50mm (1.97") oversleeved with 52mm (2.05") at the
outer sprog attachment point. The front end of the rear leading edge is slotted and engages in a clevis
pin installed in the front leading edge. The rear end of the rear leading edge contains a receptacle for
the tip wand, secured in place by a bushing and clevis pin five inches from the rear end of the tube
and a small screw 1/2" from the end of the tube. The clevis pin also passes through a tang on the rear
sail mount webbing strap and secures this strap to the rear leading edge.
Special Instructions For Sport 2 175
On the Sport 2 175, the leading edge breaks down forward of the leading edge / crossbar junction,
In addition, the clevis pin which secures the rear leading edge to the front passes through a hole in
both the rear leading edge and front leading edge, (instead of engaging in a slot in the rear leading
edge as it does on the 135 and 155), and thus this clevis pin must be removed and re-installed,
both when breaking down the leading edges and when re-assembling them. Also, because the
joint is forward of the leading edge / crossbar junction, it is necessary when breaking down the
leading edge for shipping to first disassemble the leading edge / crossbar junction. Therefore,
after re-installing the rear leading edges it will be necessary to re-assemble the leading edge /
crossbar junction.
On earlier models, where the leading edge crossbar junction bolt uses a castle nut and safety ring,
the safety ring will usually be deformed in the process of removing it. In this case you should
either discard it and put a new safety ring on the bolt, or upgrade the assembly to the longer bolt,
clinch nut and nylon nut cap as shown on the previous pages of this manual.
When re-assembling the crossbar / leading edge junction, use the pictures and diagrams in this
manual to verify the correct installation and assembly sequence and orientation of the
components.
Reassembling the Sport 2 after breakdown for shipping
1. Lay the glider down on its back (bag zipper up) on a smooth, clean work surface. Unzip the
glider bag, pull it off of the glider at the front and rear, and unfold the sail to its full length.
Remove the wing tip cover bags and the Velcro sail ties from the glider, and unroll the sail
part way.
2. Identify the rear leading edges as to left and right in order to make sure you are mounting the
correct rear leading edge into the correct front. Check the "right" / "left" label or marking on
the rear leading edges. Remember that the right leading edge is to your left as you look from
the rear when the glider is upside down. If the leading edges are not marked, identify left and
right by consideration of the following: The sprogs are mounted to the back side of the
leading edges, the sprog cables are attached to the top of the leading edges, and the wand
receptacle is at the outboard end of the leading edge. The photo below shows the right rear
leading edge, in a right side up orientation.

—7—
3. Working on one wing at a time, and working with the appropriate rear leading edge, fold the
sprog which is attached to the rear leading edge "forward" against the rear leading edge. Turn
the rear leading edge upside down (because the glider is lying on its back, upside down) and
slide the front end of the rear leading edge tube into the sail through the opening at the
wingtip. As the tip of the sprog reaches the sprog access zipper opening, route the sprog
outside of the sail through this opening.
4. Continue to slide the rear leading edge forward, with the sprog outside the sail, and slide the
rear leading edge into the front leading edge. Align the rear leading edge properly so that the
sprog bracket is on the inside of the leading edge, and slide the rear leading edge forward,
rotating as necessary, until the slot in the rear leading edge engages securely on the pin in the
front leading edge. When the rear leading edge is fully engaged, you will not be able to rotate it.
5. Find the sail mount strap and stretch it towards the rear of the leading edge. Position the sail
mount strap on the bottom of the leading edge tube (which will be on top with the glider
upside down) and make sure the strap is not wrapped around the tube or twisted. Remove the
safety ring from the clevis pin located five inches from end of the leading edge, remove the
clevis pin, and pass it through the tang in the sail mount webbing. Reinstall the clevis pin in
the leading edge, and reinstall the safety ring on the clevis pin. Check again to make sure that
the sail mount strap is mounted to the bottom of the leading edge tube and not twisted or
wrapped around the tube.

Note: The exact length of the adjusted sail mount webbing strap is an important tuning
adjustment - do not loosen this strap in order to install it on the rear leading edge. (See
the section on Sail Tension in the Glider Tuning section of this manual for more
information on the adjustment of this strap.) If you are having trouble installing the strap,
first check to make sure that the rear leading edge is fully engaged in the front leading
edge. If the slot in the rear leading edge is not engaged on the clevis pin in the front
leading edge, the overall leading edge length will be one half inch too long. After
confirming that the rear leading edge is fully engaged, if you are unable to stretch the sail
mount strap far enough to install the securing pin, dismount the sail at the nose of the
glider, mount the rear, and then remount the sail at the nose. If necessary, you can mount
the nose of the sail after the glider is set up - but if you wait until then to mount it, make
sure to spread the wings carefully and ensure that the sail is riding forward on the
leading edges as you do so. Otherwise, you could tear the sail.

—8—
6. Fold the sprog to the rear and against the leading edge. Place a velcro around the sail at this
point. Fold the tip of the sail over, roll it up and reinstall the tip bags. Put the glider bag back
on and zip it up.
To remove the rear leading edges for shipping follow these steps
This process will basically be the reverse of installing the rear leading edges after shipping.
Before beginning, read through the section above on how to reinstall the rear leading edges.
While following the instructions below, refer to the photos in the section above for reference, if
necessary.
1. Lay the glider on the ground or floor, unzip the bag and remove the velcro ties. Remove the
tip bags and lay the tips out flat. The sprog access zippers should be fully unzipped.
2. Working through the opening at the tip of the sail, slide the sail forward exposing the end of
the leading edge tube and locate the clevis pin which secures the sail mount strap to the
leading edge. Remove the safety ring from the sail mount clevis pin and remove the pin from
the leading edge and from the tang on the sail mount strap. Reinstall the clevis pin in the
leading edge tube and reinstall the safety ring.
3. Check to see that the rear leading edges are labeled "Left" and "Right." If they are not, mark
them with an indelible marker. Remember that left and right are reversed if the glider is lying
"on its back", upside down.
4. Fold the sprog towards the nose, and make sure that it is positioned so that it will slide into
the sail through the sprog zipper opening when you remove the rear leading edges. Working
through the opening of the sail at the tip, pull the rear leading edge straight aft to disengage it
from the front, and then continue to slide it carefully out of the sail through the sail opening at
the tip. Tape or pad the edges of the front end of the rear leading edge tubes, and the rear of
the front leading edge tubes to prevent sail damage during transit.
5. Roll up the sail, and the tips of the sail and reinstall the tip cover bags. Carefully fold the rear
of the sail over against the front, and replace the bag on the glider.

—9—
Sport 2 Set-Up Procedure
A number of set up operations are made easier by the use of the Set-Up Tool - a six-inch
length of 3/4" tubing included with your glider.

1. Lay the glider on the ground, with the bag zipper up, with the bag at right angles to the wind.
2. Undo the zipper, remove the battens, and remove the control bar bag.
3. Lift and deploy the control bar legs.
a. Remove the ball lock pins from downtube bottom plug and inspect the pin at this time for
any signs of wear or damage. Note: Be sure to depress the button when removing or
inserting the ball lock pins. Otherwise, you may dislodge the sleeve in the downtube end
fitting which retains the sidewire tang. (This sleeve has to have only a light press fit to
hold it in place, as it must be removable in order to change the bottom side wires.)
b. Align the downtube bottom plug on one side properly in the appropriate basetube corner
fitting and install the ball lock pin securing the plug to the basetube bracket.
c. Repeat for the other side. Thread the VG rope through the VG cleat.

Make sure that the small bushing that secures the side wire tang in the downtube end
fitting is in place, and that the side wire tang is properly secured. Also make sure that the
ball lock pin is fully and securely engaged in the basetube end bracket. Note that the ball
lock pins are critical structural components and must be replaced if they show any sign of
wear or damage.

4. Flip the glider upright on the control bar. Try to set the basetube on level ground, and try to
avoid rocks. Remove the glider bag and all the Velcro sail ties. Do not remove the leading
edge tip protector bags at this time. Before spreading the wings, pull upwards on the wire
attached to the front of the nose batten, and lift the batten up over and onto the stud on top of
the keel. (This is easiest to do at this point in the set up.)
5. Spread the wings almost all the way and erect the kingpost. Attach the reflex bridle ring to the
bridle pigtail clip.

— 10 —
6. Remove the battens from the batten bag, and check each batten for symmetry against the
corresponding batten from the other wing. Align the battens at the nose, and at about the 60%
chord point as shown. There should not be any deviation of more than 1/8" from one to the
other along the full length of the battens. Note: If you fly in a dusty or sandy environment, it
will help to prolong the life of your batten pockets in your sail if you wipe each batten with a
rag before you insert it in the batten pocket.
7. Wills Wing convention is that black tipped battens go in the right wing and white tipped
battens in the left. Top surface cambered battens are numbered from the tip inwards, and the
shortest cambered batten in a Sport 2 is designated as the "#2" batten (there is no "#1 batten").
Working from the root out, install the three longest cambered top surface battens in each wing
of the sail. Do not engage the rear tips in the trailing edge at this time.

Insert the battens carefully, so as to minimize stress and wear on the sail. Do not hold the
battens by the rear tips, and do not apply significant force to the rear tips during insertion
or removal - the lever type tips can be broken if the force required for insertion of removal
is applied to the tip. Do not insert or remove the longest top surface battens with the
crossbar tensioned and never insert or remove battens with heavy wind pressure on the
top of the sail or in any condition which causes the battens to slide with great resistance
in the pockets. Take care when inserting the longer cambered battens that the front batten
tip does not catch the aft edge of the Mylar insert through the sail and fold it under. This
is best avoided by keeping the trailing edge of the sail as low as possible, and lifting on
the batten in the area behind the Mylar pocket if necessary as you push the batten in. If
the Mylar insert does become folded under when inserting a batten, remove the batten,
smooth the Mylar down, and reinstall the batten. Also take care not to force the rear
batten tips into the ground when installing or removing the battens. When working with
the longest inboard batten it is helpful to lift the rear end of the keel slightly, and also to

— 11 —
insert the batten initially upside down, flipping it over after it is inserted about a quarter
of the way.

If you choose not to check your battens for symmetry before each flight, you should, at a
minimum check them once every five flights, or at any time that you experience a hard
landing or ground handling mishap.

8. Spread the wings all the way and check all cables for any twisted thimbles or tangled cables.
At the rear of the keel, pull on the line that is attached to both the top rear wire and the sweep
wire in order to retrieve the sweep wire from inside the keel pocket. (Note: Sometimes the
sweep wire tang will catch on the front of the keel pocket at this point in the set-up. If this
happens, reach through the opening in the sail at the base of the kingpost, grasp the sweep
wire, and work it forward and aft while pulling gently on the line at the rear until you clear
the interference.) Pull the sweep wire out the rear end of the keel pocket. For maximum
"leverage" insert the set up tool in the loop of leech line attached to the sweep wire keyhole
tang. Tension the sail by continuing to pull back on the sweep wire and secure the sweep wire
by installing the keyhole tang onto the keyhole collar on the rear wire bolt. Make sure the
tang slides fully forward in the slot on the collar so that the narrow part of the keyhole slot is
fully captive in the narrow part of the bolt collar, and make sure that the button lock pops up
behind the tang. Now install the top rear wire keyhole tang onto the same keyhole collar,
again making sure that the tang is fully installed, and that the button lock pops up behind the
tang. You can stow the excess line inside the neoprene sleeve on the rear keel.

Never install the keyhole tang onto the keyhole bolt without making absolutely sure that
the tang is fully engaged on the narrow neck of the bolt, and tensioned forward into the
fully locked position. An in-flight disengagement of this attachment will cause a complete
loss of structural support of the glider and a total loss of control. Never attach the pull
string to the collar, even temporarily. Also, avoid applying any forward, rearward, or
sideways pressure on the button spring, or allowing the tang to catch on the back of the
button, as this can result in the button becoming bent and not deploying properly.

9. The next step is to install the tip wands. Remove the wingtip protector bag. Unfold the tip of
the sail and open the Velcro closure between the top surface and bottom surface at the tip. The
tip wands are tapered; the larger end is installed in the receptacle in the end of the leading
edge tube. At the narrow end of the tip wand is a label that reads "Back." This indicates the
side of the tip wand that should be positioned towards the rear after the wand is inserted in the
leading edge and before the cam lever and cup are installed. Rotate the tip wand cam lever

— 12 —
 outside the sail. Holding the larger diameter end of the tip wand in your hand, reach into the
opening in the tip of the sail and work your way up to the end of the leading edge. Install the
tip wand into the receptacle, and push it all the way in until it bottoms out. Rotate the wand to
align the "back" label to the rear away from the front of the leading edge. (Note: The purpose
of aligning the wand in this way is to extend the service life of the wand - see Wills Wing
Technical Bulletin TB20040424 - available at www.willswing.com - for more information.)

Working from the front side of the leading edge, facing the glider, hold the end of the leading
edge tube from underneath in one hand and grasp the wand lever and cup in the other hand.
Place the open end of the wand cup against the front side of the tip wand. While supporting
the leading edge tube by pulling it towards you, push back against the wand with the wand
cup, allowing the cup to slide outwards along the wand as the wand bows back. (Keep in
mind here that you are not trying to "stretch" the sail lengthwise along the wand - that won't
work. You are bowing the wand back by pressing the cup against the front, which will
naturally pull the sail outwards around the bow of the wand as you do so. Also keep in mind
that the wand must be allowed to bow for this to work; you cannot be holding onto the wand
with your other hand during this operation.) As the wand cup reaches the end of the wand, it
will rotate and pop into place over the end of the wand.

Note: There are two other methods that can be used to install the wand cup onto the wand if
you're having difficulty with this method. One is to use the same procedure as described above,
but to follow the procedure before tensioning the crossbar. The other is to install the wands and
wand cups before installing any battens or tensioning the crossbar. To do this, install the wand
into the wand receptacle as described above. Then, sitting on the ground with the wing tip in front
of you, grasp the wand in one hand and the cam lever pull string in the other hand. Pull straight
back on the cam lever pull string until the cup is beyond the end of the wand, and install the cup
onto the wand. Either of these methods is an acceptable alternative to the primary method

— 13 —
described above, and you may find either or both to be easier. The disadvantage of either of these
two methods is that because the crossbar is not tensioned, the top side wires are not holding the
tips off the ground, so the tip area of the sail is more exposed to dirt and wear.
10. The next step is to cam over the tip wand cam lever, tensioning the sail at the tip. Grasp the
pull string attached to the cam lever in one hand, and with the other hand firmly grasp the
bottom surface of the sail at the tip at the velcro opening. Pull your hands towards each other
to rotate the cam lever first towards the keel and then against the tip wand.

11. After you cam the lever over, check to see that the "back" label is properly aligned - it should
now lie directly under that cam lever. Look into the sail from the tip and verify that the most
outboard internal rib is fully zipped up.
12. Install the remaining outboard top surface battens. Secure the shortest cambered battens with
a double purchase loop of the 205 leech line. After installing the tip battens, open the Velcro
closure between the top and bottom surface at the tip, and while supporting the tip batten with
light upward pressure, re-close the opening and secure the Velcro attachment. (This is to
ensure that both surfaces of the sail mate cleanly in this area).
13. At this time you can install the batten tips for the cambered battens into the hem of the trailing
edge. The lever tip incorporates a hinge and a snap locking mechanism, as well as a threaded
shank that allows for adjustment of the overall batten length, and hence the chordwise tension
that the batten puts on the sail. The locking mechanism can be broken if it is not released
properly before the lever portion of the tip is rotated upwards. If it does break, it will usually
break at the locking hook on the lever (rear) portion of the tip. Also the hinge portion can pop
apart relatively easily. (This is not a failure of the tip, and you can easily pop the hinge back
together again.)

If you do have a failure of the locking hook on the lever portion, simply pop the hinge apart
and pop on a new lever part. It is also possible, though less likely, to break the forward
portion of the tip. If that happens, unthread the tip from the batten and thread in a new piece.

— 14 —
 Once the batten is installed, in order to fit the batten tip into the trailing edge hem, you will
need to unlock the lever part of the tip and pivot it upwards. To unlock the tip, place a slight
downward pressure on the top of the lever portion of the tip, and squeeze upwards on the
bottom of the lever portion just behind the locking clasp. Then pivot the lever tip upwards.
You should not feel any resistance to the lever rotating upwards - if you do you haven't
properly released the locking portion. If you hear a click when pivoting the lever upwards, it
is likely that you have broken, or partly failed the locking tab on the lever.

After the rear of the tip has been rotated upwards, fit it into the gap in the hem of the trailing
edge and then rotate the tip downwards until it locks into place. You should hear a click at this
point, and the tip should be securely held in the locked position. (Note: A tip with a failed
catch will still "click" when you rotate the lever downwards into position, but depending on
the degree of failure of the catch, it may not support an upward load on the trailing edge
sufficient to keep the tip locked in position.)

14. The next step is to deploy the sprogs and secure them in position. Before doing so, working
through the sprog access zippers, preflight the following items:
a. The remaining internal ribs to confirm that they are fully zipped up.
b. The sprog hardware, including the leading edge sprog brackets, the attachment of the
sprogs to these brackets, and the sprog cable attachments at both ends of each sprog
cable.
c. The leading edge crossbar junction hardware, including the nut, bolt and safety ring at
this junction and at the bottom side wire attachment to the crossbar.

— 15 —
 To deploy and secure each sprog, swing the sprog away from the leading edge and align it in
the center of the rear end of the sprog access zipper, such that the rear end sprog paddle lies
below both the transverse batten and the short piece of bungee attached to the sail. Rotate the
sprog as necessary to align it such that the cable pulls directly from the top of the sprog.
(Note: The sprog should align easily and remain in this position - with the tang on top. If it
will not remain aligned properly, there is probably a twist in the sprog cable. To fix this,
dismount the sprog from the leading edge and rotate the sprog around the cable until the twist
is removed.) Pull the loop of bungee cord over the end of the sprog to secure the alignment.
(The bungee does not need to be tight around the sprog, however, if the bungee is so long as
to be very loose on the sprog, pull it over the sprog end twice, forming two loops.) Fully close
the sprog access zipper. Note: Do not lift on the sail at or near the trailing edge while trying to
close the sprog access zipper. If you want to lift the wing to gain easier access to the
underside of the glider, lift the wing by the leading edge tube.

15. Attach the bottom front wires to the bottom of the nose. Install the keyhole tang over the
keyhole collar by pulling down on the nose of the glider while pressing the tang upwards over
the collar. Remember, it is the pulling down of the glider's nose rather than the upward
pressure on the tang that allows you to install the tang over the collar. Make sure that the tang
is fully seated in the collar, and that the button lock pops up in front of the tang, locking it in
place.

— 16 —
16. With the center zipper open, look inside the sail to preflight the following items:
a. The crossbar center section, including the crossbar hold down rope, the sweep wire hinge
bracket attachment to the crossbar, and the hinge bracket center hinge pin, push nut and
safety ring,
b. The routing and condition of the VG line and the attachment and alignment of the VG
triple blocks (pulleys).
c. Each crossbar half along it's entire length.
d. The top to bottom surface sail velcro attachments and internal ribs.
e. The main / backup hang loops. Verify that the main hang loop spreader bar is positioned
just below the bottom surface.
17. Check the operation of the VG throughout the range, and leave the VG set full tight. Zip up
the center sail zipper, and the lateral zippers at the rear end of the bottom surface in the root.
18. Install the nosecone as follows - fit the nose cone to the nose of the sail and stretch the top rear
end of the nose cone back along the center line of the glider. Press down to attach the velcro.
Then pull the bottom front end of the nose cone tight around the bottom of the nose and attach
the velcro. Finally, readjust the top rear attachment as necessary to remove any It is important
to fit the nosecone carefully so that there are minimal discontinuities in the sail in the nose
area. Any discontinuity in the sail in the nose area, or along the leading edge will tend to
promote premature separation of the airflow, leading to an increased stall speed and reduced
performance.

It is important to fit the nosecone carefully so that there are minimal discontinuities in the
sail in the nose area. Any discontinuity in the sail in the nose area, or along the leading
edge will tend to promote premature separation of the airflow, leading to an increased
stall speed and reduced performance.

19. Return the VG to the full loose position.

20. Install the bottom surface battens. The bottom surface battens are retained by a narrowing at
the front of the bottom surface batten pockets. You will feel increased resistance as you push
the battens into this area.
21. Conduct a complete preflight of the glider, checking all assemblies which have not already
been checked.

— 17 —
Preflight Procedure
Along the left leading edge
Carefully check the entire length of the leading edge pocket to insure that the Mylar insert is lying
flat in the pocket. If any section of the Mylar is folded under, de-tension the crossbar, remove the
batten closest to the area of distortion, and unfold the Mylar.

Failure to correct folded under or severely creased Mylar will cause a severe alteration of
the flight characteristics of the glider that may lead to a dangerous loss of control.

Look inside the bottom surface where the bottom side wire enters the sail, and make sure that the
bottom and top side wires are properly secured to the crossbar, that the thimbles are not cocked on
the tangs, and that the nut and safety ring are in place.

Note: Make sure that the bottom surface of the sail is not caught on the bottom side wire
at or below the wire / tang junction. This tends to happen especially on the 175 model,
and can result in a distortion in the sail which can cause a significant turn in the glider.

While pushing up on the leading edge between the nose and the crossbar junction, step on the
bottom side wire with about 75 lbs. of force. This is a rough field test of the structural security of
the side wire loop, the control bar and the crossbar, and may reveal a major structural defect that
could cause an in-flight failure in normal operation.

At the left wingtip

Check that the tip wand lever access velcro closure is cleanly mated and closed.
Along the trailing edge, left wing
Check that there are no tears in the sail material along the trailing edge.

— 18 —
Check that all battens are properly secured.
Check that the sprogs are properly secured in position supporting the transverse battens, that the
transverse battens are properly located and secured in the sail, and that the sprog access zippers
are properly closed.
Check that the bridles are properly engaged, with the plastic retainer balls fully seated against the
grommets, and that no bridle cable is hooked underneath a more inboard batten. Check the
condition of the bridle cables and verify that they are not damaged.
From the rear keel
Check again that the keyhole tangs are fully engaged to the keyhole collar and that the button lock
is up and engaged. Check that the keyhole collar is fully secured to the keel, and that the
mounting bolt protrudes at least slightly above the surface of the clinch nut pressed into the collar.
Check the attachment of the hang loop to the kingpost. This will require that you peel back the
protective sock over this junction. Check the attachment of the bridle ring to the pigtail at the top
rear of the kingpost, and that the bridle cables are not twisted.
Along the trailing edge, right wing
Same as for left wing.
At the right tip
Same as for left tip.
Along the right leading edge
Same as for left leading edge.
Under the glider at the control bar
Sight down the downtubes, making sure that they are straight.
Check that the ball lock pins are fully inserted and secure.
Check the cables at the control bar corners, making sure there are no kinks or twisted thimbles.
Check for proper installation of all nuts and ball lock pins at the control bar corners. Check the
clevis pins and safety rings at the bottom of each downtube.
Check the VG operation - the pull should be light initially, becoming harder as the VG tight limit
is reached. The return on release should be smooth.
Pull back the neoprene protectors and check the control bar apex bracket hardware, including the
clevis pins and safeties, the control bar top plug bolts, and the elbow to apex bracket bolt and nut.

— 19 —
Inside the sail, at the crossbar center and VG system
Unzip the center zipper.
Check that the Rapidlink which secures the backup hang loop around the keel is secure. The
threads on the link can normally be completely engaged with fingertip pressure. Be careful not to
overtighten the link if you use an open-end wrench.
Check the sweep wire for wear and damage between the crossbar hinge brackets and where it
passes by the kingpost. Check the kingpost base bracket attachment to the keel.
Verify that the locknut and screw that secure the rear pulleyblock shackle to the sweepwire
spreader bar are secure.
Check the condition and the knot on the 4mm cord that secures the front pulleyblock to the
crossbar ball-center.
Check the condition and knots on the 4mm cord that restrains the crossbar center around the keel
Check the clevis pin hinge assembly and safety between the crossbar hinge brackets. Also check
the 4 locknuts that secure the hinge brackets to the crossbar tube.
Check that the routing of all VG ropes and pulleys is clear and straight.
Check that the front keel pocket is secured to itself with the mating Velcro surfaces, and that all
VG cables and ropes are inside the keel pocket.
Zip up the bottom surface.
At the nose
Check that the keyhole tang on the bottom front wires is fully engaged on the collar, and that the
button lock is properly engaged. Check that the keyhole collar is fully secured to the keel, and
that the mounting bolt protrudes at least slightly above the surface of the clinch nut pressed into
the collar. If you are platform towing, and have a nose line attached in this area, check to see that
the nose line is not routed in a manner in which it can apply any forward load against the bottom
front wires or the keyhole tang. (See the information on Towing elsewhere in this manual.)

— 20 —
Launching and Flying the Sport 2
Before launching, hook in to the glider and do a careful hang check. We recommend that
you hang as close to the basetube as possible - this will give you lighter control pressures
and better control in both roll and pitch.

1. We recommend that you launch with the VG set between full loose and 1/2 on. Because the
Sport 2 uses a conventional VG, there is significant slack in the side wire loop at VG full
loose. This may interfere with your ability to position the glider properly in roll prior to
launch. Setting the VG partly on will reduce this slack, but will also reduce your roll control
authority immediately after launch. Setting the VG somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 provides
a reasonable compromise.

If you launch with the VG set partly on, you must make sure that there is no way that you can
step on the excess VG rope, and that it cannot catch on anything on the ground. One way to do
this is to fold the rope into a flat loop about eight inches long, and tuck it around the outside of
the right downtube above the bottom front, rear, and side wires.

If the wind is more than 10 m.p.h. or gusty you should have an assistant on your nose wires on
launch, and, if necessary, an assistant on one or both side wires. Make sure all signals are clearly
understood. The angle at which you hold the glider should depend on the wind speed and slope of
the terrain at launch; you want to achieve a slight positive angle of attack at the start of your run.
2. Run aggressively on launch and ease the bar out for lift off.
3. The flying characteristics of the Sport 2 are typical of a high performance flex wing. Make
your first flights from a familiar site in mellow conditions to give you time to become
accustomed to the glider.
Minimum controllable airspeed and minimum sink airspeed
There are two important airspeeds with which all hang glider pilots should be intimately familiar;
minimum sink airspeed (hereinafter referred to as MSA) and minimum controllable airspeed
(MCA). Minimum sink airspeed is that speed at which your descent rate is the slowest possible. It
is the speed to fly when you want to maximize your climb rate in lift, or slow your rate of descent
to a minimum in non-lifting air. (You would normally not fly at MSA in sinking air; the strategy
there is normally to speed up and fly quickly out of the sink. By minimizing your time spent in
the sinking air you minimize altitude lost, even though you have momentarily increased your sink
rate by speeding up.)
Minimum controllable airspeed is that speed below which you begin to rapidly lose effective
lateral control of the glider. Recognition of this speed and its implications is a more subtle
problem than many pilots realize. We have seen several instances of pilots who were having a lot
of trouble flying their gliders simply because they were unknowingly trying to fly them too
slowly; below the speed at which the glider responded effectively to lateral control inputs. It is
our opinion that a great percentage of hang gliding accidents are caused by inadvertent flight
below MCA, and subsequent loss of control of the glider with impact preceding recovery. Such
incidents are usually attributed to "stalls," but it is not the stall per se that causes the problem,
indeed the glider need not even be "stalled" in the traditional sense.
On most hang gliders, MCA and MSA have evolved towards a common value during the design
and development of the glider. This is so because if the wing is tuned so tight that minimum
controllable airspeed is at a higher speed than minimum sink speed, then effective sink rate

— 21 —
performance can be improved by loosening the wing so as to lower the minimum controllable
airspeed. Conversely, if minimum controllable airspeed is reached at a speed below that of
minimum sink, the wing can usually be tightened so as to improve glide performance without
significant sacrifice in other areas. One important thing to note is that as the VG is tightened,
minimum sink airspeed normally goes down, while minimum controllable airspeed goes up.
Therefore as you tighten the VG, you will find that at some point you can no longer adequately
control the glider at minimum sink airspeed. The exact VG setting at which this happens depends on
how active the air is, and how advanced your skills are. On the Sport 2, at the looser VG settings, the
opposite occurs - the glider remains controllable at a speed below that at which it is most efficient
aerodynamically. As a result, it is possible to fly the glider too slowly for optimum sink rate
performance, because control is retained well into a partial stall or "mush." As a result, you may find
that you climb more effectively if you speed up a little from your slowest controllable airspeed.
Using wing tufts to find the minimum sink speed of your glider
Your Wills Wing glider has been equipped from the factory with short yarn tufts on the top
surface of each wing. The shadow of these tufts will be visible through the sail. The tufts are
useful for indicating the local reversal of the airflow which is associated with the onset of the stall
in that portion of the wing. You can use these tufts, as described below, to help determine when
you are flying at minimum sink airspeed.
On a flex wing hang glider with moderate twist, the wing experiences a progressive stall, and
different spanwise stations of the wing stall at different angles of attack. The tufts have been
placed on your wing at the approximate location of the first onset of stall. As the angle of attack is
raised further, the stall propagates both outward towards the tips and inward towards the root. If
you wish to observe the stall propagation across the whole wing on your glider, you can cut some
more tufts from knitting yarn, about 3-4" long, and tape these to the top surface of your sail across
the rest of the span. (Note: On a Sport 2, with the VG set full tight, the twist is reduced markedly,
and the wing stalls more abruptly, with the stall progressing across the entire span more quickly).
During normal flight the flow will be chordwise along the wing, and the tufts will point towards
the trailing edge. When the wing stalls, the tufts will reverse direction, indicating the local flow
towards the leading edge.
At the first onset of stall, the tufts will indicate the impending separation by first wiggling, and
then deflecting spanwise, before they fully reverse and point forward. The first onset of stall
occurs well before the familiar "stall break" in which the glider pitches uncontrollably nose down
to recover from the stall. By the time the stall break occurs, all tufts but those farthest outboard
will have indicated reversed flow.
On the Sport 2, minimum sink rate is achieved with the tufts deflected spanwise between 30 and 45
degrees. Significant control authority is normally retained even with the tufts indicating 60 to 90
degree spanwise flow - however, you will usually achieve better performance at a slightly higher
speed.
To find the glider’s minimum sink speed, fly the glider in smooth air, early in the morning or late
in the afternoon. When you are well away from the terrain, and well clear of other aircraft, look
up at the wing tufts while you very gradually reduce the speed of the glider. Note the speed at
which the tufts indicate a partial spanwise flow - between 30 and 45 degrees of deflection. This is
your speed for minimum sink rate. Familiarize yourself with the position of the control bar
relative to your body at this speed, with the sound and feel of the wind, with the reading on your
airspeed indicator, and with the feel of the glider in terms of pitch and roll pressures. Most of the
time when you are flying it will not be practical to look up for extended periods of time at your
tufts. Also, in active air, the tuft behavior will be affected by transient changes in angle of attack
due to gusts. That is why familiarization with these other, more accessible indicators is important.

— 22 —
After finding your minimum sink speed, experiment with roll control response at speeds just
above and just below this speed to find the value of MCA and the corresponding bar position and
other indicators for this speed. Realize that your effective MCA is going to be higher and higher
as the air becomes more and more turbulent; control response that is perfectly adequate in smooth
air will not be good enough in rougher air. At VG 1/4 or looser, you can try flying the glider with
the tufts indicating spanwise flow or partially reversed. You will probably find that the glider is
controllable, but only with more than normal physical effort. Note that both MCA and MSA come
well before the glider actually "stalls" in the traditional sense, i.e. pitches uncontrollably nose
down. You may also be able to sense, or your vario may tell you that although the glider has not
"stalled" (pitched nose down) your sink rate has increased significantly. In this mode the glider is
"mushing."

The VG rope is marked in 25% increments - one mark indicates VG 1/4, two marks VG 1/
2 or VGM, three marks VG 3/4 and one long mark at the full pull of the rope indicates VG
tight (VGT). The stall and spin characteristics of the Sport 2 are relatively benign at VG
settings of VGM (50% or two marks) and looser. At tighter VG settings, the stall becomes
more abrupt, and the glider becomes easier to spin . We recommend that flight at speeds
less than three mph above minimum sink airspeed be avoided at VG settings of tighter
than 75%, except in relatively smooth air. We recommend against deliberate spins, or
aggressive full breaking stalls, (with the exception of the landing flare).

Once you have familiarized yourself with the glider’s characteristics in the range of speeds near
minimum sink, you will not need to look at the tufts very often. You will know from bar position
and bar pressure, and from the sound and feel of the relative wind when you are at your minimum
sink / minimum controllable airspeed. In general, you should not fly your glider below this speed.
Be aware, however, that when you are flying at minimum sink in thermal gusts and turbulence,
you will experience gust-induced separation of the airflow which will periodically cause the tufts
on your sail to reverse.
Of course in a turn, your minimum sink speed goes up because you are banked, and the bank
effectively increases your wing loading which increases your flying speed for any angle of attack.
But note this: The tufts indicate angle of attack, without regard to airspeed! Therefore, if you
practice flying various bank angles in smooth air (while well away from any terrain or other
gliders) and watch your tufts (on the inside wing, which will be at the highest angle of attack) you
will get a feel for the way your minimum sink speed varies at varying bank angles.
Also be aware that in some thermalling situations, such as when trying to maximize climb rate in
a thermal with a very strong and very small core, there may be an advantage in overall effective
climb performance to flying so slowly that some portion of the inside wing is partially stalled
most of the time. This is, however, an advanced and potentially dangerous technique - it is the
beginning of a spin entry, and if pushed just a little too far can result in a sudden loss of control
and / or altitude. In general, if the tufts are indicating flow reversal associated with the stall, you
will improve both performance and controllability by pulling in and speeding up a little.
One final caution: from time to time a tuft may tend to stick completely to the sail, and fail to
properly indicate the direction of local flow. This may result from static buildup, or from the fine
threads of the yarn becoming caught on a seam or some dirt or imperfection in the sail. The tuft may
stick while indicating normal flow, but most often it will stick after having reversed, such that the
tuft will indicate a stalled condition that does not exist. One clue in this situation is to note whether
or not the tuft is wiggling. Since flow reversal occurs during a turbulent separated flow, a reversed
tuft should be wiggling rapidly. If it is not, it is probably stuck. A tuft indicating normal flow will not
usually wiggle. An occasional application of silicone spray to the tufts, and making sure that they
are positioned so that they cannot catch on any seam will minimize the problem of sticking.

— 23 —
Platform Towing
Special care must be taken in any form of towing. In particular, in platform towing, it is
critically important that the nose line be attached so that there is no possibility of
inducing a spontaneous disengagement of the bottom front wires. In particular, there must
be no way that the nose line can pull forward on the nose wires, the nose tang, or
anything attached to either. See the photos below for the correct and incorrect methods of
nose line attachment.

The photo above shows a CORRECT method for attaching a nose line for platform
towing. Note that the line is cinched over the top of the tang, in front of the tang handle
and in front of the wires.

The two photos above both show INCORRECT methods for attaching a nose line.

In the photo on the left, the nose line is routed between the wires, making it likely that the nose
line could push forward on the nose tang, causing it become disconnected. In the photo on the
right, the nose line is outside the V of the wires, but behind the tang handle, which also makes it
likely that the nose line could push forward on the tang, causing it to disconnect. In any platform
towing launch, a final check of the routing of the nose line and the security of the nose tang
should be made prior to launching.

— 24 —
Aerotowing
The Sport 2 aertows fairly easily as compared with other gliders in its performance class. We
recommend that the VG be set to 50% prior to launch. This reduces pitch pressures, slows the roll
response of the glider, and provides the best qualitative flight characteristics for flying in
formation with the tug at normal aerotow speeds.
When aerotowing, it is important to match the height of your control bar to the height of the rear
keel support on the ground cart so as to properly set the initial angle of attack of the glider. If the
glider is at a higher angle of attack on the cart than is optimum, you should recognize the launch
will be more demanding, and more dangerous, as the glider will have an increased tendency to
leave the cart at a lower speed, where lateral control is reduced, and the tendency to come off the
cart with one wing low is increased. To some degree, this can be compensated for by pulling
forward through the control bar to position the basetube below your shoulders, and holding tight
to the hold down rope. This will cause the glider to raise the keel as it begins to develop enough
lift to fly out of the cart. At that point, and not before that point, you can release the rope and ease
your weight aft to fly the glider off of the cart. Be prepared to pull in once clear of the cart if
necessary so as not to climb more quickly than the tug.
Once clear of the cart and in position behind the tug, use firm lateral movements of short duration
for roll and directional control in order to stay in position behind the tug. Do not move to one side
of the bar and wait for the glider to respond - this will lead to over control and being out of
position, and may lead to roll / yaw oscillations. It is better to "bump" the glider firmly in the
direction of the desired correction and then return to center. If you need more correction, bump
again. In pitch, stay on top of the situation and be as aggressive as necessary to keep the tug on
the horizon.

— 25 —
Trimming Your Glider in Pitch
You will find that the on the Sport 2 the basetube position at trim changes with VG setting. At VG
loose the glider will trim with the bar farther out, and as VG is pulled on, the basetube trim
position will move back. The trim speed will normally not change by more than one or two mph
at different VG settings. The Sport 2 will normally be trimmed at near minimum sink speed or
slightly above.
At tighter VG settings, the amount of pitch pressure felt as you move away from trim also
decreases. At VG loose, the pitch "well" is very defined; the pitch force increases quickly as you
pull in from trim speed. At tighter VG settings, the pitch well becomes more shallow, and the
pitch force increases much less as you pull in from trim speed. At VG full tight, the pitch
pressures when pulled all the way forward may be as light as 8 to 12 lbs per hand.
Overall pitch trim is affected by several factors. Among the most significant is the location along
the keel of your hang point (commonly, if mistakenly, referred to as your "CG location"). The
farther forward your hang point is, the faster the glider will trim, the less effort will be required to
fly fast, and the more effort will be required to fly slow. If the glider's trim is too slow, it will
make the glider more difficult to control in roll, especially in turbulent air and when the nose
pitches up on entering a strong thermal.
On the Sport 2, hang loop fore and aft position is adjusted by repositioning the kingpost base
bracket attachment to the keel. The bracket is secured by a bolt through the keel. There are three
holes in the keel to allow three positions in increments of 5/8" over a range of 1.25" of
adjustment.

We recommend that you not stow your glider bag, or any other cargo on the glider. The
practice of putting your glider bag inside the sail, for example, can drastically alter the
pitch trim and static balance of your glider, and adversely affect its flying and landing
characteristics. The best place to carry your glider bag or other cargo is in your harness.

Another factor that can affect pitch trim is the adjustment of the keel pocket rear support strap. If
this strap is too tight, it can slow the trim speed. With the glider fully set up on the ground, and
the VG set full loose, there should be 0.5" of slack in this strap.
Finally, the adjustment of the sprogs will affect pitch trim at tighter VG settings, although not at
VG settings looser than about 2/3. If there is excessive "transient trim" (increase in trim speed at
tighter VG settings), it is an indication that the sprogs are set too low. If there is a marked
reduction in trim speed between VG 2/3 and VG tight, it indicates that the sprogs may be set too
high. When the sprogs are set properly, the trim speed will normally remain the same, or increase
slightly up to VG 3/4, and will not be significantly higher or lower at VGT than at VG 3/4.
In the absence of the use of tufts, it has become common for pilots to talk about bar position, or
about indicated airspeed, when trying to communicate how to trim a glider properly or how to fly
a glider at the proper speed for a given situation. The problem is that these methods are unreliable
and inconsistent from one pilot to another even on the same glider. The angle at which your
harness suspends your body in your glider has a great deal to do with your perception of the bar
"position" relative to your body. Airspeed indicators vary in their indicated airspeed depending on
the make of the instrument, its calibration, any installation error, etc. The use of tufts gives you an
absolute first hand indication of the actual aerodynamic event associated with two critically
important airspeeds on your glider. It is a potentially useful tool that may improve your flying.

— 26 —
Speeds to Fly and Using Your Airspeed Indicator
The Wills Wing Hall Airspeed Indicator has been specially designed to help you fly your Sport 2
at the proper speeds for optimum safety and performance, and is a recommended option for your
glider.
There are four color-coded bands on the ASI:
White: This is the range from 18 m.p.h. to 28 m.p.h.. This is the normal thermalling speed range
for light to moderate thermalling conditions. Try to keep your speed within this range when
thermalling in light to moderate conditions. Very strong or turbulent conditions will warrant a
faster flying speed.
Green: The top of the green region represents the placarded maximum rough air and maximum
maneuvering speeds. This speed of 46 m.p.h. should not be exceeded except in smooth air, and no
abrupt large control deflections should be used above this speed. In significant turbulence it is
recommended that you keep the airspeed "in the green" for best control and stability and best
structural margin at all times.
Yellow: This region represents the upper speed range between maximum rough air / maximum
maneuvering speed and the speed never to exceed. You should fly in this range only in smooth air
as described above.
Red Line: This is your never to exceed speed. At no time should you fly faster than this speed.

The design of the Hall type airspeed indicator involves using a ram air versus static
pressure differential to raise a disc in a tapered tube against the force of the weight of the
disc. Because of this the ASI has certain operating limitations:

a. It is only accurate in one G flight. If you are turning at a bank angle of more than 30
degrees, the ASI will read artificially low as a result of the G loading of the turn. Reliance
on the ASI for limiting airspeeds in high banked sustained spiral maneuvers will likely
cause you to exceed the placarded speed limitations of the glider and will compromise
your safety.
b. It is only accurate when within 15-20 degrees of the vertical orientation.

— 27 —
Using the VG System
The Sport 2 VG system uses a reduction system of pulleys both inside the sail behind the crossbar
center, and also inside the right downtube. Tightening the VG increases the spanwise tension
which the airframe places on the sail, reducing the spanwise twist and the sail elasticity. The result
is an increase in L/D performance and a reduction in roll control authority and roll control
response.
The VG is activated by pulling laterally on the VG rope and then moving the rope to set the rope
in the V-cut knife cleat. The recommended procedure for increasing VG tension is to grasp the
rope firmly at the cleat, and pull straight across the basetube.
VG full loose is for maximizing roll control authority and roll rate. Due to the slightly slower trim
and increased pitch pressures at VG full loose, you may find that total effective control is actually
improved in some conditions at slightly tighter settings up to VG 1/4. VG settings between VG
loose and VG 1/3 are recommended for working lift when any significant degree of turbulence is
present, or when you are in proximity to terrain or other gliders.
Between VG full loose and VG one half, the glider retains good lateral control authority and
response. Tighter than VG one half, the glider’s roll pressures increase significantly and the roll
rate becomes significantly slower. Tighter VG settings are recommended for straight line gliding,
or for flying in smoother conditions when well clear of both the terrain and of other gliders. The
stall characteristics of the Sport 2 at tighter VG settings are more abrupt and less forgiving and the
glider is more susceptible to spinning. Full breaking stalls and accelerated stalls at tighter VG
settings are not recommended.

— 28 —
Landing the Sport 2
The following discussion assumes that you are executing the landing without the aid of a drag device
such as a drogue chute. At the end of this section, we will discuss the use of drag inducing devices.
We recommend using an aircraft landing approach (45 entry leg, downwind leg, base leg, and
final leg) whenever possible, and we suggest that you practice making your approaches with as
much precision as possible. Under ideal conditions, landing approaches are best done so as to
include a long straight final into the wind at a speed above best L/D speed. In a very limited field,
or a field which slopes slightly downhill, when landing in light wind, you may need to make your
final approach at a slower speed, perhaps as slow as minimum sink, in order to be able to land
within the field. In winds of less than 5 mph, if the landing area slopes down hill at more than
12:1, you should seriously consider landing downwind and uphill; or crosswind, across the slope.
Landing attempts which require slow speed approaches, maneuvering around obstacles or into a
restricted area, or downwind or crosswind landings are not recommended for pilots below an
advanced skill level.
Standard Aircraft Approach Pattern

We recommend that you make your approach with the VG set between full loose and 1/3 on. A full
loose VG setting will reduce glide performance, making it easier to land on a target or within a small
field. It will also ensure maximum control authority during the approach, and especially when flying
very slowly on final. At VG full loose, however, there is some loss of aerodynamic efficiency and
flare authority, For this reason, in very light winds, at higher wing loadings or at higher density
altitudes, it is recommended that a setting of VG 1/4 be used. A full loose VG setting will also
increase the glider’s roll sensitivity, and some pilots have had difficulty with roll / yaw oscillations
on final. The best way to avoid this is to fly your entire approach at a constant airspeed, and to
control your touchdown point by making adjustments to the shape of your pattern. You should
choose your approach speed based on the amount of wind and turbulence present - in stronger wind
and more turbulent air, fly faster. In strong wind when the air is stable, and you expect a strong
gradient, or if obstacles indicate the likelihood of a wind shadow near the ground, fly faster. In any
case, however, try to fly a constant airspeed throughout the approach. In particular, we recommend
against the technique of make a diving turn onto final. This maneuver, sometimes called a "slipping
turn" is often taught to student hang glider pilots as a way to lose altitude during the approach.
While it will work reasonably well with low or medium performance low aspect ratio gliders which
have high levels of yaw stability and damping, and which are able to lose energy by diving because
of the large increase in drag at higher speeds, on a high performance glider this technique serves
only to convert the energy of altitude to energy of speed, while at the same time suddenly increasing
the glider’s sensitivity to control inputs. The result is a high probability of overshooting the intended
landing point and the prospect of roll / yaw oscillations which may interfere with a proper landing.

— 29 —
Once established on a straight final approach, with wings level and flying directly into the wind,
you should fly the glider down to where the basetube is between three and six feet off the ground.
At this altitude, let the control bar out just enough to "round out" so that your descent is arrested
and your flight path parallels the ground. The remainder of your approach will consist of bleeding
off excess speed while paralleling the ground and keeping the wings level and the nose pointed in
your direction of flight until it is time to "flare" for landing.
Prior to the landing flare your body position should be generally upright, but slightly inclined
forward, with your head and shoulders forward of your hips and your legs and feet trailing
slightly behind. Many pilots make the mistake of trying to get too upright at this stage of the
landing, which actually reduces your flare authority and makes it harder to land on your feet. Your
hands should be at shoulder width and shoulder height on the uprights. You should be relaxed,
with a light grip on the bar, and your weight should be fully supported in your harness and not at
all by your arms. (If your harness does not allow you to hang in the proper semi-upright landing
position "hands off," without supporting your weight on the control bar, you will have a lot more
difficulty making good landings. Talk to your harness manufacturer or your dealer about getting
your harness adjusted to allow you to hang properly in the landing position.)
There are several options for when to make the transition from prone to this semi upright position.
Some pilots favor going upright and moving both hands to the downtubes while still at altitude
prior to the start of the approach. Others transition at the start of the approach to a semi upright
position with one hand on a downtube and one hand on the basetube, and complete the transition
by moving the other hand to the downtube just a few seconds prior to flare. Still others fly with
both hands on the basetube until established on final glide, and then transition one hand at a time
to the downtubes prior to flare.
Whichever method you use, there are a few important principles to observe. The first is that you
should not make any change in hand position unless you are flying at or very near trim speed. At
speeds faster than trim, you will be holding the bar in pitch against substantial force, and if you let
go to move your hand the glider will pitch up and roll towards your remaining hand. The second
is that while moving either hand, you have no control over the glider. You should move only one
hand at a time. Even so, if you can’t make the transition in the position of each hand quickly and
reliably, you should transition both hands while at altitude, before you start your approach.
Otherwise, if you fail to make a quick transition, you could be out of control close to the ground,
and suffer a turbulence-induced change in heading or attitude without sufficient time to recover.
Many pilots make the mistake of trying to change position while flying fast and close to the
ground, and experience a dangerous loss of control as a result. A third principle to observe is that
if you are using a "pod" type harness, you should unzip and confirm that your legs are free to exit
the harness at least 500 feet above the ground and before you start your approach. If there is any
problem finding the zipper pull, or dealing with a stuck zipper, you don’t want to have to try to fix
that problem while also flying the approach.
Once established on a wings level short final, into the wind, body semi upright and with both
hands on the downtubes, your final concern is the timing and execution of the landing flare. The
goal is to arrive on the ground, on your feet, under control with the glider settling on your
shoulders. If the wind is 15 mph or more, you will not really execute a flare at all; you will simply
slow to minimum flying speed, put a foot down, and step onto the ground. In lighter winds, you
will want to use some combination of a final nose up flare, and running out your landing, in order
to finish the flight on your feet with the glider settling on your shoulders. The lighter the wind, the
stronger should be both your flare and your run.
The traditional method of landing in light or no wind calls for a sharp, aggressive flare at
precisely the correct moment. This technique works fine when done correctly, but it’s not easy to
get the timing just right. Flare too early and you will climb, and then fall with the nose pitching

— 30 —
down. Flare too late and you won’t get the nose up enough to stop your forward motion, and the
glider may nose into the ground as you run into it from behind.
The flare timing process is made much easier by using a combination of a "crescendo flare" and a
run out of the landing. As you bleed off speed on final, flying just above the ground, you are at
first letting the control bar out towards its trim position. As the glider reaches trim speed, which
will normally be one to three mph above stall speed, you begin to gently push the bar out to keep
the glider from settling. At this point it is almost time to flare. As the glider enters the "mushing"
range of angles of attack, it will begin to settle in spite of your continuing to ease the bar out. This
should be happening well before your arms are significantly extended. At this point begin your
flare by smoothly accelerating the rate at which you push out on the bar. At the same time, draw
one leg forward, put a foot down, and start to run as hard as you can. This run should be very
much like an aggressive take off run – your body should be leaning forward into the run and you
should be driving with your legs. The difference here is that while you are leaning into your run
and driving forward with your legs, your arms are extending fully from your shoulders, pushing
out, and what feels like upwards, on the control bar in an accelerating, "crescendo" flare.
Done correctly, this type of flare / run combination will bring the glider quickly to a very nose
high attitude, producing a great deal of drag and quickly arresting all of your forward motion. You
will feel the glider pulling you from behind, resisting your attempt to run, and as you slow down
the glider will settle gently on your shoulders. Even in no wind, you should not have to take more
than a few steps. If your timing is a little early, and you feel the glider start to climb, simply stop
pushing out and resume the flare when the glider again begins to settle. If your timing is a little
late, your feet will touch down a little sooner, but as long as you’re running and flaring at the
same time, the glider will stay over your head or behind you.

Note: Pilots who have trouble with the flare, and with the glider nosing over during landing,
usually do so because of one of the following problems:
1. Harness leg straps too long / hanging too low below the glider, and / or hands too low on the
control bar. This reduces pitch authority and prevents an adequate flare.
2. Improper body position - pilot leaning back, (away from the anticipated hard landing), with
feet extended in front. This moves the pilot’s center of mass forward ahead of his shoulders,
effectively shortening the pilot’s arms and reducing flare authority. The proper position is
with the pilot’s body inclined forward, with the shoulders out ahead of the pilot’s center of
mass. Thinking about pushing "up" instead of "out" when flaring may help you to maintain
the proper forward inclined body position.
3. Slowing too much prior to flare, so that your arms are too extended to allow enough flare
amplitude.

— 31 —
Using drag devices during landing
It is becoming more popular on high performance gliders for pilots to utilize a small parachute or
"drogue chute" during landing approach. The proper function of such a device is to increase drag
on the glider, and as a result reduce the glide ratio. Please note that a drogue chute, because it
produces only drag and not lift, does not "slow the glider down" or allow it fly at a slower speed,
or reduce the landing speed. What it does do is to allow the pilot to fly a steeper approach at a
higher speed, have much less "float" after round out, and thus make it much easier for the pilot to
plan his approach, to time the flare, and to accurately "hit the spot" and land close to the intended
landing point. It restores the ability, which used to be present on lower performing gliders, to use
adjustments in speed to control the steepness of the descent.
Drogue chutes have been used which attach to the glider, and others have been used which attach
directly to the pilot’s harness. There are several significant dangers in using a drogue chute. One
pilot died when he deployed a drogue chute over the bottom side wire, and the glider was pulled
into a fatal spiral dive. A drogue chute attached to the pilot’s harness can, if it becomes caught on
the keel or on a batten at the trailing edge, interfere in a dangerous way with the pilot’s control of
the glider. A drogue chute which is unstable, or does not remain inflated, can create distractions
for the pilot which interfere with his safe operation of the glider.
Wills Wing manufactures a drogue chute that attaches to the pilot’s harness on one side, and
deploys and flies off to one side behind the pilot attached to a very short bridle that keeps it inside
the keel and the trailing edge of the sail. This configuration minimizes the prospect of
entanglement of the chute with the glider.
When using a drogue chute, we recommend that you deploy it early, before you begin your
approach. Deploying the drogue will effectively change the performance polar of your glider - the
glide ratio will be reduced at all speeds, and it will be reduced more and more as you fly faster
and faster. As a result, proper approach technique will include setting up a normal approach, but at
a significantly steeper approach angle in all phases of the approach. In other words, you will be
higher, and on a steeper angle of descent, at every point during the approach. You should also err
on the high side when in doubt, because with the drogue chute you have limited ability to extend
(flatten) your glide, but very good ability to reduce (steepen) it. For example, in the normal glider
configuration, if you were approaching at best L/D speed into a head wind, and were coming up
short, you would speed up. With the drogue, speeding up will primarily degrade your glide and
will not get you significantly more distance. When using the drogue, set up higher, and approach
with more speed. Then, if you are too high, you can still speed up more and cut your glide, while
if you are too low, you can slow down and extend your glide. When you round out on short final
and begin slowing down, the drogue will shorten the time period between round out and flare.
This reduces the opportunity that turbulence would otherwise have to lift a wing or yaw the nose
away from your flight direction. As a result, timing the flare becomes easier, and the chances of
making a wings level flare with the glider pointed in the direction of flight are increased. Overall,
the effect is very much that of making the glider take on the landing characteristics of a lower
performance, easier to fly glider.

— 32 —
The first time you use a drogue chute you should fly over the LZ at more than 1000’ AGL, and
deploy it long before you start the landing approach. This will allow you to take the time to learn
how the glider flies with the drogue. A properly designed and mounted drogue chute should not
have any major effect on the glider’s flight characteristics, other than to reduce the glide ratio, but
you should get a feel for these effects at altitude.

— 33 —
Sport 2 Breakdown
Breakdown of the glider is essentially the reverse of assembly.
1. Unzip the sprog access zippers all the way to the leading edge end of the zippers. This should
be your first step when you break down. If the sprog zippers are not unzipped fully when you
remove the battens, the sail may catch on the end of the sprog and damage the sail or the
zipper. After unzipping the zipper, detach the bungee loop from around the rear tip of the
sprog.
2. Set the VG to the full loose position and pull the rope entirely through the cleat to the outside
of the cleat. This will facilitate the later removal of the basetube and help prevent inadvertent
damage to the VG rope as you fold the wings in.
3. Remove the nosecone and put aside. Remove any instruments. Detach the bottom front wires
at the noseplate. You will need to push up on the button lock to allow the tang to disengage
from the collar.

4. Remove all but the three longest cambered battens from each wing. On the lever tip battens,
remember to apply slight downward pressure on the top of the lever while squeezing the
bottom portion so as to release the locking catch before pivoting the lever tip upwards.
5. Open the tip wand cam lever velcro closure, and pull on the string attached to the end of the
lever to "un-cam" the lever and straighten the tip wand. Install the tip bag over the wand and
tip of the sail at this time.
6. Disengage the top rear wire, and de-tension the crossbar sweep wire and let the wings fold in
slightly. (To release the tangs, depress the rear button on the button lock system, which will
also depress the front button and allow you to disengage the tangs from the keyhole collar.)
Reinstall the neoprene protective socks over the rear wire junction bolt and the rear end of the
keel. Remove the remaining top surface battens and the bottom surface battens at this time.
7. Swing each wing in about 1/3 of the way. At each wingtip, remove the tip cover bag. Holding
the tip wand in one hand, pull straight aft on the cam lever and disengage the cup from the
end of the wand. Remove the tip wand by pulling straight aft from the end of the leading
edge. Rotate the lever inside the sail.

— 34 —
8. Fold the wings all the way in to the keel pulling the sail over the top of the leading edges. At
this time you should be able to dismount the front end of the nose batten from the top of the
keel. Lift up on the batten to disengage them from the stud, and then pull the tip clear of the
stud and pull the batten partly out of the pocket.
9. Swing the sprogs to the rear against the leading edge. Make sure the sprog zippers are fully
open. The sprogs remain outside the sail when the glider is packed up.
10. Pull the sail out away from the keel until it is even on top and bottom. Place the bottom
surface battens and tip wands on the sail and roll the sail gently and carefully, parallel to the
trailing edge of the outboard portion of the sail. Install a velcro sail tie on each wing just
behind the trailing edge at the root.

Try to roll the sail in such a way that the leading edge portion remains as smooth as
possible. Do not attempt to stuff the sail between the Mylar pocket and the leading edge
tube at any point where you feel resistance, and do not attach the Velcro ties so tight so as
to induce creases in the Mylar or leading edge sail material.

— 35 —
11. At the wingtips, lay the sail at the tip out flat, and fold the tip of the sail forward over onto the
bottom portion of the sail. Working from the trailing edge, roll the sail tightly to the leading
edge, and install the tip cover bag. Note: If you're breaking down in a dirty, rocky and/or
abrasive area, you can combine this step with step 7 above, by pivoting the wing inwards
enough to allow you to flip the sail at the tip over the top of the leading edge, fold forward
and roll up the wing tip and put it in the tip cover bag.

12. Finish rolling the sail in the area of the sprogs, and install the other sail velcro ties at this
point.

13. Install the long, wide sail Velcro around the sail forward of the control bar apex, passing if
first over the top of the keel tube just ahead of the front keel pocket, (unzip the center zipper
slightly if necessary), and stow the nosecone under this velcro.
14. Install the glider bag. Flip the glider over onto the ground. Remove both control bar corner
ball lock pins and stow them in the downtube end plugs. Pull the VG rope through to the
outside of the cleat if you have not already done so, and remove the basetube and set it aside.
15. Fold the control bar downtubes together, lay them down against the keel and install the
control bar bag. Place the basetube in the rear end of the glider bag with one end of the
basetube lying between the tip bags at the end of the glider bag.
16. Put the battens in the batten bag and stow the bag just forward of the basetube, with the open
end of the batten bag adjacent to the end of the basetube. Slide the end of the batten bag over
the end of the basetube to protect the sail from the basetube end hardware. Each end of the
basetube should now be isolated from the sail. Zip up the glider bag.

— 36 —
Sport 2 Stability Systems
Several design features of the Sport 2 determine the glider's degree of stability in pitch:
a. The combination of wing sweep and spanwise twist.
b. The alignment of the sprogs, and the height at which they and the transverse battens support
the trailing edge.
c. The length of the bridle cables and the height at which they support the trailing edge of the
sail.
d. The shape of the preformed battens and the internal fabric ribs, and adjustment of the internal
Velcro attachments which define the airfoil.
e. The setting of the tip wands.
Correct attachment and proper adjustment of the sprogs and reflex bridles are critical to providing
adequate stability at low angles of attack, particularly those below the normal operating range.

— 37 —
Sport 2 Sprog and Bridle Adjustment and Flight Testing
The Sport 2 uses two internal sprogs, one per side, in combination with one transverse batten on
each sprog, such that each sprog supports two top surface battens. In addition the Sport 2 uses on
reflex bridle cable per wing, supporting one batten per wing (Sport 2 135 and 155), or one
transverse batten per wing that in turn supports two battens (Sport 2 175). The sprog and bridle
systems are the primary components that provide pitch stability at low angles of attack outside the
normal flight envelope. The function of these systems is to support the trailing edge of the sail at
low angles of attack, and thus provide a nose up pitching moment. The bridles also provide
structural support in a manner that reduces the loads on the sprog system. The sprogs and bridles
are adjusted at the factory to their proper settings. You can check this adjustment as follows:
Sprog and Bridle measurement
1. Fully set up glider on a reasonably level surface and set the VG to full tight.
2. Place the rear end of the keel on the floor. The wing tips should be just slightly off the floor. If
they are not, place something under the rear keel so that the wing tips are not contacting the
floor.
3. Tie a lightweight thread tightly across wing from the left #4 batten to the right #4 batten, and
from the left #5 batten (135 and 155) or #6 batten (175) to the corresponding right #5 or #6
batten. (These are the third and fourth, or third and fifth cambered battens, counting in from
the tip – counting the shortest cambered tip batten as the #2 batten.)
4. Press firmly on the top of the sail at the center of the transverse batten at the end of the sprog
and then release. Measure the height of each thread relative to the top of the keel tube. The
results should be as follows:
Outer (Sprog) Thread Inner (Bridle) Thread
Sport 2 155 at least 6-1/4" (158 mm) above keel at least 6-1/4" (158 mm) above keel
Sport 2 135 at least 5-5/8" (143 mm) above keel at least 4.0" (102 mm) above keel
Sport 2 175 at least 4-1/2" (114 mm) above keel at least 4-5/8" (117mm) above keel
5. Note that this method will not disclose sprogs that are asymmetric. If, after achieving the
proper measurement, you have a turn in the glider which is only present at tighter VG
settings, lower the sprog on the side the glider is turning towards, and raise the other sprog by
the same amount.
Method of adjustment
1. To adjust the sprog height, fully unzip the access zipper to gain access to the front of the
sprog where it is mounted to the sprog bracket. (Note: The procedure described herein is most
easily done with the battens removed and the wings folded.)
2. Remove the horizontal bolt and nut that secures the sprog clevis fork to the pillar block,
taking care to maintain the rotational alignment of the clevis fork in the sprog at its original
setting.
3. To raise the sprog, turn the clevis fork so as to "loosen" or unscrew the fork in the end of the
sprog, thereby lengthening the sprog. To lower the sprog, turn the clevis fork in the opposite
direction. One full turn raises or lowers the sprog about one half inch. The adjuster may be
locked in place with a thin jam nut, in which case you will need to loosen this jam nut before
you can turn the clevis fork.

— 38 —
 You can usually loosen the jam nut by rotating the sprog counter clockwise before
dismounting it, and then spin the nut out of the way until you have readjusted the clevis fork
as desired. When you have achieved the desired adjustment, run the nut against the end of the
sprog, loosen the clevis fork a quarter turn, and snug the nut finger tight against the sprog.
After you reattach the clevis fork to the pillar block, while holding the nut, rotate the sprog 1/
4 turn in the correct direction so as to tighten the nut. Note that the jam nut is primarily to
preserve the sprog adjustment if the sprog or sprog cable is detached. With the sprog and
cable fully installed and attached, the adjustment cannot change.
4. Reattach the sprog clevis fork to the pillar block. Note: DO NOT overtighten the bolt that
secures the clevis fork to the sprog pillar. The fork should not be compressed against the
pillar, and must be completely free to pivot on the pillar. With the glider fully set-up, press
down firmly on the rear end of the sprog to seat the cable before checking the measurement
again.
5. To adjust the bridles, substitute a longer or shorter bridle pigtail at the top rear of the
kingpost, or install tubular shims below the sail above the plastic retainer balls. Contact your
dealer or Wills Wing to obtain these parts as necessary.

Test flight
If the sprogs are set too low, it may cause a significant increase in trim speed and a reduction in
pitch pressures at tighter VG settings, and there will be a reduction in pitch stability at angles of
attack below normal flight. This stability reduction could increase the probability of a turbulence-
induced tumble or other in-flight stability related loss of control. If the sprogs are set too high, it
may cause excessive pitch bar pressure at high speeds, and excessive roll control pressures, lag in
roll response, and adverse yaw. Please be aware that flight testing encompasses a very limited
angle of attack range and that pitch stability in the flight test envelope does not necessarily
correlate to pitch stability in the extended angle of attack range that is investigated on a test
vehicle. In particular, do not assume that adequate stability is only contingent on positive pitch
pressure during flight testing. However, in the case of the Sport 2, insufficient pitch pressure in
steady state flight with pilot full forward is a significant indicator that the sprogs are set too low.
If, while maintaining steady state flight in smooth air at VG full tight, with the bar pulled all the
way in, you experience less than eight lbs (4 kg) per hand of positive pitch pressure, you should
check and readjust your sprogs as necessary.

The bridles will normally be quite slack in flight at loose VG settings, becoming
progressively less slack at tighter VG settings. Even at VG full tight, they will normally have
some degree of slack. The primary means for checking the bridles should be the
measurement as listed above. If the bridles are set too low, it will not usually create a

— 39 —
 noticeable difference in flight characteristics. If they are set too high, they will, at the point
where they become tight, interfere with the control of the glider, both in pitch and roll.

In the performance of the above test it may be that the you will exceed the maximum
placarded VNE of the aircraft, especially if the sprogs are adjusted lower than the normal
setting. This test is best performed by a qualified test pilot, and, in any case, should be
performed only in smooth air and with caution.

Maintenance
This section contains a recommended schedule of periodic maintenance. None of the items in this
section are a substitute for the continual and consistent practice of proper preflight inspections and
immediate maintenance of any items on the glider which require it. Safety requires that your
glider be fully airworthy for every flight. Nuts and bolts must always be secure, safeties must
always be in place, and damage to any part which could compromise the airworthiness of the
glider cannot be tolerated. If you have a question about the need to repair or replace some part of
your glider, feel free to contact your dealer or Wills Wing directly. It is not always obvious which
items require attention and which may not. Minor dents or dings in a non critical location on an
airframe tube may not require any repair or maintenance. On the other hand, a wire that has been
kinked one time can fail very quickly after that, and should be replaced immediately. A control
bar corner fitting that has had a significant landing impact may have a crack that is almost
undetectable, but which could cause the part to fail catastrophically at a later time.
We recommend that you have all maintenance work done by your Wills Wing dealer.

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Parts Ordering and Parts Replacement
Wills Wing policy requires, for safety reasons, that replacement parts be ordered through an
authorized Wills Wing dealer. The purpose of this policy is to insure that the parts will be
delivered to someone who has the required expertise to install the parts properly. We have seen
multiple examples of incidents in which a pilot's life was endangered as a result of the incorrect
installation of replacement parts, or incorrect assembly of a glider.
The serial number of the glider is required when ordering any fabricated replacement part. The
serial number is a five digit number which can be found in several places on the glider; on an
embossed label on the bottom of the front of the keel tube, on the operating limitations placard on
the bottom of the rear of the keel, and written inside the nose area of the sail. In addition to the
serial number, you should provide any relevant information regarding configuration options for
the glider in question.
When replacing a part on the glider, always compare the old part with the new part to make sure
that the new part appears to be the correct item. If you have any question, contact Wills Wing.
Also, be sure to do a thorough inspection of the glider after the installation of the part, to insure
that the part has been installed correctly, and appears to be functioning correctly, and that the rest
of the glider is properly assembled.
Every Six Months
1. Check the adjustment of your sprogs, as described in the last section.
2. Check your battens on a flat level floor against the batten diagram provided, and correct any
that deviate from the pattern by more than 1/4".
3. If you fly in a dusty or sandy environment, it will help to prolong the life of your batten
pockets if you wipe each batten with a rag before you install it in the sail.
4. Inspect all cables and suspension system components, and replace any suspension system
component that shows any wear, and any cable that shows any kinks, wear, damage,
corrosion, etc.
5. Inspect all bolts and nuts for tightness, all safeties for proper installation and possible damage.
Inspect plates and fittings for damage, holes in tubes for elongation. Inspect the ball lock pins
for any sign of damage or wear and replace the pins if damage or wear is found. Inspect the
keyhole tang button locking mechanisms at the nose and rear keel for proper operation -
adjust or replace as necessary if the button locks do not operate smoothly and engage fully.
6. Inspect the sail for wear, tears, UV damage, loose stitching, etc.
7. Check for free operation of all pulleys. Disassemble, clean and / or lubricate or replace as
necessary. Inspect all VG ropes for wear or damage and replace if necessary.
8. Lightly spray any zippers on the glider that show indication of excess friction with silicone
spray lubricant. Do not use any other type of lubricant. Wipe off any excess silicone so that it
does not attract dirt.
9. Inspect the sprogs, sprog hardware and sprog cables. If the sprogs have been loaded heavily, it
is possible that the sprog tubes may have been bent, and the cables may have been stretched.
(Note -the Sport 2 sprog tubes are preformed with a bend to accommodate the change in
section of the sail at the aft edge of the bottom surface - this is normal.) The normal sprog
cable length is shown below. Any cable which exceeds this measurement by more than 3/32"
should be replaced.

— 41 —
 Sport 2 155: Sprog Wire 25.1" (Rear tang rivet center to center of LE mounting bolt).
There are three hinge mechanisms in each sprog assembly that must be free to swivel. One is
the cable attachment to the leading edge. Make sure the cable can swivel in the horizontal
plane at this attachment. Also make sure that the locknut is fully engaged and secure on the
bolt. Second is the junction of the sprog fork and sprog pillar. This junction should be
disassembled, cleaned and lightly lubricated with white grease. When reassembling, take care
not to overtighten the nut, as there should be no clamping effect of the sprog fork on the
pillar. Third is the junction of the pillar and the sprog bracket attached to the leading edge.
Service this junction in the same manner, and again, do not overtighten the nut.
Ever Year
In addition to the normal six month service items, also perform the following:
1. Remove the sail completely from the frame, and disassemble all frame components. Inspect
every part of the glider for any damage or wear. Inspect the tubes for straightness, dents,
cracks, and for signs of corrosion. Inspect each hole or slot in each tube for elongation,
cracks, wear, loose bushings, or other signs of damage.
2. Anytime you have the sail off the frame, turn the sail inside out through the bottom surface
center zipper and inspect all of the batten pockets and batten pocket terminations.
3. Replace bottom side wires and hang loops. Note: The bottom side wires are retained by a
lightly press fit bushing. This bushing is best removed with a special stepped drift, by pushing
it out of the fitting from the rear. Take care not to damage the fitting.
4. Replace the VG ropes.
5. Remove the transverse battens and inspect for damage.
Special circumstances
1. Any time you suffer a crash or extremely hard landing you should have an "annual"
inspection done on your glider to insure that you find all damaged parts. Following any hard
landing, be sure to inspect the apex hardware, the control bar legs and basetube, and all
control bar fittings and fasteners for damage, including the ball lock pins. Any time you
replace a control bar leg or basetube, you must carefully inspect all related fittings and replace
any that are bent or damaged.
Hard landings may also impose very high loads on the sprog assemblies and transverse
battens. Inspect accordingly.
2. If your glider is ever exposed to salt water you will need to have the glider completely
disassembled in accordance with the recommended annual inspection procedure. All frame
parts will need to be disassembled, including the removal of all sleeves and bushings, flushed
liberally with fresh water, dried completely, and treated for corrosion inhibition with LPS-3
or other suitable agent.
3. Cleaning Your Sail - Keeping your sail clean will extend the life of the cloth. When cleaning
the entire sail you should generally use only water and a soft brush. You may clean small
spots or stains with any commercial spot remover that is labeled for use on polyester. Such
cleaning agents are available at the supermarket or drug store, or you may order a cleaning
solution from Wills Wing through your dealer.
A note about cables and cable maintenance
The cables which support the glider’s airframe are critical components of the glider’s structure,
and must be maintained in an air worthy condition. It is a general practice in the design of aircraft

— 42 —
structures to design to an ultimate strength of 1.5 times the highest expected load in normal
service. Hang glider cables, like other structural components on the glider, are typically designed
with a structural safety factor of only about 50% above the expected maximum load. No
significant loss in cable strength can be tolerated.
A cable with even a single broken strand must be replaced before the glider is flown again. A
cable which has been bent sharply enough to have taken a permanent set (will not lie flat in a
straight line when all tension is removed) must also be replaced immediately. If it is not,
subsequent tensioning and de-tensioning of the cable will induce fatigue, and the cable will fail.
In tests we have conducted, a cable bent one time to 90 degrees, and then loaded to the equivalent
of a normal flight load 100 times (corresponding to 100 or fewer flights), failed at only 56% of its
original strength.
Some degree of fatigue due to repeated bending of cables is almost unavoidable in an aircraft that
is assembled and disassembled with every flight. Bottom side wires are subject to the highest
loads in flight, and are therefore the most critical. This is why we recommend that these wires be
replaced annually, even if there is no known damage. The requirement for immediate replacement
of a cable known to have been bent or otherwise damaged supersedes this annual replacement
requirement.
Replacement cables should always be obtained from the factory, or, if not from the factory, from a
reliable source known to use proper fabrication procedures. An improperly made cable may
appear perfectly OK on visual inspection, but could fail in flight at a load much below the
intended design strength of the cable.

— 43 —
Removing the Sail from the Airframe and Re-Installing
Many maintenance and repair procedures will require the removal of the sail from the frame.
Please follow these instructions when removing and reinstalling the sail. Please read all the
instructions for each operation before beginning.
Sail removal
You will need an unobstructed area six feet by thirty feet. Make sure the surface is clean. If it is
abrasive, like rough concrete, you should either put down a protective tarp or be extremely careful
not to scrape your sail.
1. Lay the glider on its back, unzip and remove the glider bag and put the battens aside. Remove
the control bar bag.
2. Remove the screws that mount the sail at the front of the leading edges. Remove the webbing
zipper stop at the bottom nose area. Completely unzip and separate the bottom surface zipper.
3. Spread the wings slightly. Unroll the sail so as to gain access to the bridle attachment points
on the trailing edge. Push on the bridle cable loop at the bottom of the loop to expand the loop
into a circle, and rotate the plastic ball out one side of the loop to remove it. Disconnect the
bridles from the sail.
4. Dismount the sail from the rear leading edges by removing the clevis pin located five inches
forward of the rear of the leading edge tube. Remove the pin from the sail anchor strap and
reinstall it in the leading edge.
5. Remove the rear leading edges (see the section on "Breaking Down The Rear Leading Edges"
at the beginning of this manual).
6. Unbolt the bottom side wires and top side wires from the crossbar and feed them through the
holes and out of the sail. Unbolt the bottom rear flying wires from the rear keel. Reassemble
the hardware removed onto the bolts in the original order so that it doesn’t get lost. All
disassembled assemblies on the glider must be reassembled in the proper order and
orientation. Use the exploded parts diagrams in this manual to help you.
7. Unbolt the kingpost from the keel, and detach the top front wire from the kingpost.
8. Undo the Velcro which holds the front part of the keel pocket together. Slide the frame out through
the open center zipper. If you encounter resistance, stop and find out what is hanging up.
9. If you need to send the sail in to the factory for repair, remove the Mylar and the transverse
battens. The Mylar is removed from the front end of the Mylar pocket. It helps to secure the
opposite end of the sail to something solid, so that you can lay the leading edge out straight
and pull the Mylar straight out of the pocket. If you have trouble getting it to slide out freely,
it is probably because the edge of the Mylar has worked its way into the seam and gotten
stuck on the adhesive seamstick tape. Work your way up and down the leading edge pocket
rolling the Mylar away from the seam until it is free along its entire length.
10. Fold and package the sail carefully if you plan to ship it in for repair. Be sure to include
written instructions of what you want done, your name and a phone number where you can be
reached during the day.

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Reinstalling the Sail on the Frame
1. Install the Mylar in the sail. Make sure you install it right side up; the slit edge is at the front and
on the bottom. The easiest way to install the Mylar is to push it into the pocket using a long
lofting batten attached to the end of the Mylar insert which is first inserted in the pocket. A small
diameter pin on the end of the lofting batten placed through a small hole in the end of the Mylar
insert allows you to push the Mylar into the sail and remove the batten while leaving the Mylar
in place. You will have to stop from time to time to make sure the Mylar is properly lying flat in
the pocket. Do not push the Mylar too far into the pocket. Make sure there are no folds in the
Mylar, especially at the tips. Make sure the Mylar wraps in the proper direction to follow the
sail around the leading edge as it enters the pocket.
2. Install the transverse battens in the sail.
3. Position the sail on the floor with the keel pocket up and the wings folded over so that the
leading edges lie along the length of the root line, with the Mylar pockets lying on top.
4. The frame is most easily inserted without the rear leading edges installed, and without the
inboard sprogs attached.
5. Position the frame with the bottom of the noseplate facing up and with the rear end of the
leading edges at the nose of the sail. Slide the frame into the sail through the open bottom
surface zipper, making sure that the leading edges of the frame pass properly into the leading
edge pockets of the sail and don’t get caught at the rear of the bottom surface near the root. As
you feed the frame slowly into the sail, check periodically to see that none of the hardware is
snagging on the sail or internal sail ribs.
6. After the frame is fully installed, mount the webbing anchor strap to the rear leading edge
with the clevis pin located 5" from the end of the leading edge. Make sure the strap is
properly oriented on the bottom of the leading edge tube (which is on top with the glider
upside down) and that the strap is not wrapped around the tube. (See the section at the
beginning of the manual about reassembly after shipping.)
7. Reconnect the bottom surface center zipper at the nose, zip part way up, and install a new
securing zip tie at the nose.
8. Install the rear leading edges (see the section on reinstalling the rear leading edges after
shipping at the beginning of this manual.)
9. Install the screws to mount the sail to the front of the leading edges.
10. Insert the top and bottom side wires into the sail and attach to the crossbar, making sure that
no cable is wrapped around a leading edge or crossbar, and that no thimbles are cocked or
twisted. Pull the top front wire out through the hole in the sail.
11. Bolt the bottom rear wires and sail retainer webbing strap to the rear of the keel.
12. Feed the sweep wire through the keel pocket.
13. Flip the glider up onto the control bar. Mount the kingpost to the keel, and attach the top front
wire to the kingpost.
14. Spread the wings slowly and carefully, making sure that the sail rides forward as necessary at the
nose without catching. Be careful: you can easily tear the sail open at the nose at this point.
15. Attach the bridles to the trailing edge. Finish the assembly of the glider completely according
to normal assembly procedures.
16. Do a very careful and complete preflight of the glider according to the normal preflight
procedure as explained earlier in this manual.

— 45 —
Glider Tuning
CG adjustment
This has already been covered in the section of this manual on using your wing tufts. Wills Wing
recommends that tuning other than CG adjustment be performed by your Wills Wing dealer.
Turn trim
Turns are caused by an asymmetry in the glider. If you have a turn, first try to make the glider
symmetrical in every way. If a turn only appears at VG settings of 3/4 to full tight, it may be an
indication that the sprogs are set asymmetrically. See the section below on tip wand receptacles.
Airframe
Check the leading edges for possible bent tubes. Check that the keel is not bent to one side.
Check for symmetrical twist in the leading edges by checking for symmetry in the alignment of
tip wand receptacles.
Battens
Check the battens for symmetrical shape.
Tip Wand Receptacles - rotational alignment
The plastic plug which fits directly into the rear leading edge determines the rotational alignment
of the tip wand. This plug is secured against rotation by a small screw in the end of the leading
edge. There are five holes in the plastic cap, allowing for two notches of rotational adjustment on
either side of the normal, center hole. Prior to removing the securing screw to rotate the plug, note
the position of the scribe mark on the cap relative to the label on the rear leading edge. If the
plugs are not each set at the neutral position in the center of the label, take note of where they are
so you will know what your starting point is.

Sail tension
Check for symmetrical sail tension on the leading edges. In order to check this, sight the hem of
the sail at the bottom of the leading edge tube relative to the noseplate on each side. Leading edge
sail tension is adjusted by changing the mounting hole where the tip wand cam lever mounts to
the sail (1/ 4" adjustments are available) or by shortening the tip wands. A one eighth of an inch
difference (3mm) in the length of the tip wand can make a noticeable difference in how a glider
handles. If you have a glider that is a little too stiff, you might try shortening the wands by an
eighth inch.

— 46 —
You should also check the relationship between the tension is the sail mount strap at the aft end of
the leading edge, and the tension as taken by the tip wand. With the glider fully assembled, and
the VG set to full loose, the sail mount webbing strap at the rear end of the leading edge should be
snug, but not overly tight, and it should be symmetrical from side to side. It should then become
progressively tighter as the VG is engaged.
Twisting a tip
After you have made everything symmetrical, if you still have a turn, you can correct it by
rotating one or both tip wand receptacle end caps. A left turn is corrected by twisting the left sail
plug counter clockwise (twisting the tip wand down) or twisting the right sail plug counter
clockwise (twisting the tip wand up) or both, as indicated on the label attached to the rear leading
edge. Twist clockwise on either or both plugs to correct a right turn. Note that the mechanism of
adjusting the sail wand receptacle for tuning out a turn in the glider is the same as performing the
same tuning function on a conventional tip, although the direction of rotation seems to be
opposite. For example, to remove a right turn, if working with the right wing tip, you would rotate
the end cap clockwise, so as to rotate the wand down, thus depressing the right wing tip. On a
conventional wingtip, you would rotate the end cap counter clockwise, because doing so would
rotate the wingtip downwards. The aerodynamic effect is the same, even though the direction of
rotation appears at first glance to be opposite. Adjustments are best made in one "notch"
increments. If you have rotated the right wing down both available notches, and still have a right
turn, you can rotate the left wing up.
To rotate the tip wand receptacle end cap, remove the securing screw, rotate the cap until you see
the next hole, then reinstall the screw.
Batten tension
The outboard most battens on each side are tensioned by looping the batten string over the
notched end of the batten twice. The remaining battens are all fitted with lever tips. The outboard
batten with strings should be adjusted quite tight for maximum sail cleanliness. On the battens
fitted with lever tips, it is important to adjust the lever tips to set the right batten tension. The
lever action makes it easy to have the battens set too tight. Batten tension is best judged by noting
at what point the batten begins to tension the sail as you pivot the lever tip down into its locked
position. This is the point at which chordwise slackness begins to be pulled out of the sail, the
high point of the batten begins to make a prominent ridge in the top surface, and a noticeable
increase in resistance is felt in pivoting the tip downwards. On any battens inboard of the crossbar
junction, this point should not come until the lever tip is within no more than the last 20 to 30
degrees of travel before becoming straight. On battens outboard of the crossbar junction, this
point should come when the lever is between 30 and 40 degrees of straight. To lengthen the
batten, simply unscrew the batten tip shank from the batten, to shorten the batten screw the tip
further in. Each three turns changes the length of the batten by 1/8 of an inch.

— 47 —
Car Top Mounting and Transport
Improper or careless transport of your glider can cause significant damage. You should transport
your glider on a rack which has at least three support points which span at least 13' of the length
of the glider. These should be well padded and at least four inches wide to distribute the load.
Your glider should be securely tied down with webbing straps which are at least 1/2" wide, but
not tied so tightly or with such a small diameter rope that the Mylar insert is permanently
deformed. If you drive on rough roads where the glider receives impact loads, you should take
extra care to pad your glider internally when you pack it up. Note that we specifically recommend
against transporting your glider inside of a tube or box, unless the glider rests on a padded surface
and is secured against movement. We have seen many examples of gliders inside of tubes that
underwent highly accelerated wear due to the continuous movement of the glider in the tube when
driving over normal bumps in the road surface.

— 48 —
In Closing - A Few Final Words on Your Safety
With proper care and maintenance, your glider will retain a high level of airworthiness for some years. Be-
cause of the relatively short history of hang gliding, and the rapid advances in new designs, we do not have a
lot of information about the ultimate service life of a hang glider. We do know that ultraviolet (UV) damage to
the sail from sunlight is one limiting factor in the life of your sail. Try to avoid exposing your sail to sunlight
any time you are not actually flying it. We also know that sails will both stretch and shrink over the life of the
glider, and that because of these dimensional changes in the sail the glider's flight characteristics can change
with time. The most common manifestation of this is that a glider's trim speed often tends to slow down as the
glider ages. At some point it may no longer be possible to trim the glider at a speed above stall. Because the
changes that cause this are changes to the shape of the sail, there may not be any tuning adjustments that can
return the glider to its original flight characteristics. A glider which, because of the natural effects of aging,
cannot be tuned so as to exhibit acceptable flight characteristics, performance, and stability, should be retired.
We also know that there are forces in nature that can be so violent that they can result in fatal accidents
regardless of the airworthiness of your aircraft. Weather can change rapidly and even on a day on which the
weather seems fairly constant, manifestations of micro - meteorology, like turbulence, have a statistical nature.
On a day where the average peak lift in thermals is five hundred feet per minute, there is a nonzero probability
of encountering air that is much stronger than that, and may be strong enough to overwhelm your control of
the glider. Ultimately your safety is your responsibility. Know the limitations of your knowledge, skill and
experience, and know the limitations of your aircraft. Fly within those limitations.
Analysis of accidents across the whole spectrum of aviation shows that most accidents are caused by avoid-
able errors in pilot decision making. The quality of your decisions as a pilot is the single most important
determining factor in your safety. In light of this, it becomes illustrative to ask the question, "why do pilots
make bad decisions that lead to accidents?" This is a complex question. For a more detailed treatment of it, we
invite you to read the article "Why Can’t We Get A Handle On This Safety Thing" published in the September
1998 issue of Hang Gliding Magazine, and also published on our web site at www.willswing.com. In brief,
one answer to the question of why pilots make bad decisions seems to be that pilots are rewarded and rein-
forced for making bad decisions. This happens because most bad decisions do not result in an accident, and
therefore they appear to the pilot to be good decisions. If they don’t result in an accident, how do we know
they’re bad decisions? Think of it this way: in any decision you make; Do I fly today? (are these conditions
within my abilities?), Is the glider well enough balanced for me to start my launch run?, Do I have enough
room to turn back into the hill in this thermal?, Can I continue to drift over the back in this weakening lift and
still glide back above the ridge top and avoid the rotor?, - there is a percentage of certainty involved. If you
make decisions at the 99% level of certainty, the vast majority will be "rewarded" as good decisions. How-
ever, if they’re only 99%, they are really bad decisions, because in one out of 100, you will be wrong. Since
the consequences of being wrong can be as serious as a fatal accident, any decision that can be wrong is a bad
decision. The logical conclusion of this analysis of safety is that most pilots are making far too many bad
decisions. (If they weren’t, we wouldn’t see nearly as many accidents in the sport). The logical conclusion
from that is that not only can you not use a "good" result as evidence you made a good decision, you also
cannot use other people’s decision making as an example for your own. If you want to "beat the odds" and
have better personal safety than the statistical average, you have to make better decisions than the average
pilot. That will sometimes mean choosing not to fly at all, and it will sometimes mean passing up that turbu-
lent thermal that is too close to the hill, and as a result going down to the LZ instead of staying up. It will
sometimes mean cutting an XC flight short to take advantage of a more suitable landing area. In each of these
cases, your friends may well not take the conservative route, and in most cases they will be rewarded with
successful flights. In the end, however, making the more conservative decision will mean you’ll still be
around to fly another day.
Have fun. Fly safely. See you in the sky!
Wills Wing, Inc.
www.willswing.com

— 49 —
 HGMA COMPLIANCE VERIFICATION SPECIFICATION SHEET Sport 2 155
GLIDER MODEL Sport 2 155
MANUFACTURED BY Wills Wing Inc.
All dimensions in inches; weights in pounds.
NOTE: These specifications are intended only as a guideline for determining whether a given
glider is a certified model and whether it is in the certified configuration.
Be aware, however, that no set of specifications, however detailed, can guarantee the ability to
determine whether a glider is the same model, or is in the same configuration as was certified,
or has those performance, stability, and structural characteristics required by the
certification standards. An owner's manual is required to be delivered with each HGMA certified
glider, and it is required that it contain additional airworthiness information.
1. Weight of glider with all essential parts and without coverbags and non-essential
parts: 60
2. Leading Edge Dimensions
a. Nose plate anchor hole to:
1. Crossbar attachment hole 128.0
2. Rear sail attachment point 189 (5" from end of LE tube)
b. Outside diameter at:
1. Nose 2.05
2. Crossbar 2.05
3. Rear sail attachment point 1.97
3. Crossbar Dimensions
a. Overall pin-to-pin length from hole at leading edge bracket attachment to center
of load bearing ball at glider centerline. 115.75
b. Largest outside diameter 2.44
4. Keel dimensions; least and greatest allowable distances, whether variable through
tuning or through in-flight variable geometry, from the line joining the leading edge
nose bolts to:
a. The center of the xbar center load bearing ball 40.5 – 45.5
b. The pilot hang loop 55.5 – 57.0
5. Sail Dimensions
a. Chord lengths at:
1. 3 ft outboard of centerline 77
2. 3 ft inboard of tip 43.75
b. Span (extreme tip to tip) 380 VGT
6. Location of Information Placard Keel
Location of Test Fly Sticker Keel
7. Recommended Pilot Weight Range 150 – 250
8. Recommended Pilot Proficiency USHGA Intermediate

— 50 —
 HGMA COMPLIANCE VERIFICATION SPECIFICATION SHEET Sport 2 135
GLIDER MODEL Sport 2 135
MANUFACTURED BY Wills Wing Inc.
All dimensions in inches; weights in pounds.
NOTE: These specifications are intended only as a guideline for determining whether a given
glider is a certified model and whether it is in the certified configuration.
Be aware, however, that no set of specifications, however detailed, can guarantee the ability to
determine whether a glider is the same model, or is in the same configuration as was certified,
or has those performance, stability, and structural characteristics required by the certification
standards. An owner's manual is required to be delivered with each HGMA certified glider, and it
is required that it contain additional airworthiness information.
1. Weight of glider with all essential parts and without coverbags and non-essential
parts: 54
2. Leading Edge Dimensions
a. Nose plate anchor hole to:
1. Crossbar attachment hole 119.0
2. Rear sail attachment point 173 (5" from end of LE tube)
b. Outside diameter at:
1. Nose 2.05
2. Crossbar 2.05
3. Rear sail attachment point 1.97
3. Crossbar Dimensions
a. Overall pin-to-pin length from hole at leading edge bracket attachment to center
of load bearing ball at glider centerline. 107.75
b. Largest outside diameter 2.36
4. Keel dimensions; least and greatest allowable distances, whether variable through
tuning or through in-flight variable geometry, from the line joining the leading edge
nose bolts to:
a. The center of the xbar center load bearing ball 37.75 – 42.5
b. The pilot hang loop 52.625 – 54
5. Sail Dimensions
a. Chord lengths at:
1. 3 ft outboard of centerline 73.5
2. 3 ft inboard of tip 41.5
b. Span (extreme tip to tip) 349.5 VGT
6. Location of Information Placard Keel
Location of Test Fly Sticker Keel
7. Recommended Pilot Weight Range 135 – 200
8. Recommended Pilot Proficiency USHGA Intermediate

— 51 —
 HGMA COMPLIANCE VERIFICATION SPECIFICATION SHEET
GLIDER MODEL Sport 2 175
MANUFACTURED BY Wills Wing Inc.
All dimensions in inches; weights in pounds.
NOTE: These specifications are intended only as a guideline for determining whether a given
glider is a certified model and whether it is in the certified configuration.
Be aware, however, that no set of specifications, however detailed, can guarantee the ability to
determine whether a glider is the same model, or is in the same configuration as was certified,
or has those performance, stability, and structural characteristics required by the certification
standards. An owner’s manual is required to be delivered with each HGMA certified glider, and it
is required that it contain additional airworthiness information.
1) Weight of glider with all essential parts and without coverbags and non-essential
parts: 70
2) Leading Edge Dimensions
a) Nose plate anchor hole to:
1) Crossbar attachment hole 134.0
2) Rear sail attachment point 201.0 (5" from end of LE tube)
b) Outside diameter at:
1) Nose 2.00
2) Crossbar 2.00
3) Rear sail attachment point 2.00
3) Crossbar Dimensions
a) Overall pin to pin length from hole at leading edge bracket attachment to center
of load bearing ball at glider centerline. 119.75
b) Largest outside diameter 2.44
4) Keel dimensions; least and greatest allowable distances, whether variable through
tuning or through in-flight variable geometry, from the line joining the leading edge
nose bolts to:
a) The center of the xbar center load bearing ball 43.75 – 48.75
b) The pilot hang loop 59.0 – 60.5
5) Sail Dimensions
a) Chord lengths at:
1) 3 ft outboard of centerline 80.5
2) 3 ft inboard of tip 47.5
b) Span (extreme tip to tip) 398 VGT
6) Location of Information Placard Keel
Location of Test Fly Sticker Keel
7) Recommended Pilot Weight Range 175 – 320
8) Recommended Pilot Proficiency USHGA Intermediate

— 52 —
 ID Part No Part Name Qnt
1 20G-1479 CB Plug Litestream Leg Top Right 1
2 20G-1478 CB Plug Litestream Leg Top Left 1
19 9 1 10 12 13 31 11 16 33 2 20
3 20G-1489 CB Plug Litestream Leg Bottom Right 1
4 20G-1488 CB Plug Litestream Leg Bottom Left 1
5 20G-1844 Litestream Basetube Bracket Right 1
6 20G-1843 Litestream Basetube Bracket Left 1
7 40F-1511 BASETUBE ALUM SLPSTRM NO BRKTS 1
8 40G-1471 LITESTREAM LEG 65 W/O BRKTS (U2 145/T140/S2 155) 2
8 40G-1474 LITESTREAM LEG 68 W/O BRKTS (U2 160/T150) 2
9 10C-5211 NAS623-4-21 2
10 10N-1740 CLINCH NUT 1/4 MS21042-4 4
11 20G-1712 CBAR ELBOW AT TOP STREAM 2
12 20G-1615 BRACKET KEEL CNTR 44MM SADDLE 1
13 10U-5125 WASHER NYLON .75 X .316 X .020 3
14 10K-3133 PIN BALL LOCK 1/4 X 33MM GRIP 2
15 40P-3105 WIRE BOTTOM SIDE SLIPSTREAM 2
16 10N-1030 LOCKNUT 5/16 AN365-5 1
17 10N-1730 CLINCH NUT 3/16 MS20142-3 2
18 10G-1290 MS20392-2C29 4
19 40P-3203 WIRE SET BOTTOM FRONT SLIPSTREAM 1
20 40P-3302 WIRE SET BOTTOM REAR SLIPSTREAM 1
21 10P-1100 SAFETY RING AN 9491 SMALL 4
22 20C-1802 JAMCLEAT VCUT SMALL SS 1
23 20P-1270 BEARING .5 OD .312 ID .156 TH.SLDPRT 2
24 10C-4301 NAS623-3-30 2
25 10T-4113 BUSH SS .312 X .028 X .240 2
26 10T-4114 BUSH SS .312 X .028 X .125 3
27 10T-4120 BUSH SS .3115 X .028 X .850 2
28 10T-1103 SPACER AL .250 X .028 X .770 2
29 10T-5103 SPACER NY .560 X .320 X .187 1
30 10M-1651 SCREW PAN 8-32 X .375 THRD CUT 2
31 10C-2011 NAS517-4-1 2
32 20P-1201 PULLEY RONSTAN #666 1
33 10A-3221 AN5-22A 1
14 5 3 21 7 30 22 24 4 6 8 29 15 18
TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05
.XX ± .015
U2 S2 Litestream Control Bar Assy NA D .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
U2-S2 Litestream C NA 5/28/2004 - PEARSON
 ID Part No Part Name Qnt 5/01/2003 Assembly Notes:
4 10C-5211 NAS623-4-21 2 Item 25,15 permanent press fit in Basetube Brackets
Item 9 removeable fit in bottom leg plug. Front side of bushing is
5 40P-3203 WIRE SET BOTTOM FRONT SLIPSTREAM 1 knurled for tight fit. Install from front to rear. Retains
6 40P-3302 WIRE SET BOTTOM REAR SLIPSTREAM 1 sidewire, VG bearing, washers and spacers.
Item 7 slip fit assembly aid for FR-RR wires in bottom leg plug.
7 10T-1103 SPACER AL .250 X .028 X .770 2
8 40P-3105 WIRE BOTTOM SIDE SLIPSTREAM 2
9 10T-4120 BUSH SS .3115 X .028 X .850 2 11 4 10 14 31 13 14 34 30 13
10 20P-1270 BEARING .5 OD .312 ID .156 TH.SLDPRT 2
11 10G-1290 MS20392-2C29 4
12 10P-1100 SAFETY RING AN 9491 SMALL 4
13 10N-1740 CLINCH NUT 1/4 MS21042-4 4
14 10U-5125 WASHER NYLON .75 X .316 X .020 3
15 10T-4114 BUSH SS .312 X .028 X .125 3
18 10T-5103 SPACER NY .560 X .320 X .187 1
22 10K-3133 PIN BALL LOCK 1/4 X 33MM GRIP 2
23 10C-4301 NAS623-3-30 2
24 10N-1730 CLINCH NUT 3/16 MS20142-3 2
25 10T-4113 BUSH SS .312 X .028 X .240 2
26 20C-1802 JAMCLEAT VCUT SMALL SS 1 33
27 10M-1651 SCREW PAN 8-32 X .375 THRD CUT 2 5
29 20G-1712 CBAR ELBOW AT TOP STREAM 2
6
30 10N-1030 LOCKNUT 5/16 AN365-5 1
31
7
10C-2011 NAS517-4-1 2
33 20P-1201 PULLEY RONSTAN #666 1 11
34 10A-3221 AN5-22A 1 12

22 10 27 15 23 26 24 25 9 18 8
TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05
.XX ± .015
U2 S2 Litestream Control Bar Assy D .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
U2-S2 Litestream C NA 5/28/2004 - PEARSON
 ITEM Part No Description Qty

1 NA U2 Rear Keel Sleeve 1

2 20G-2906 KEYHOLE COLLAR NUT ASSY REAR2 1
3 40P-4209 WIRE XBAR SWEEP U2 SET SPREADER 1
4 40P-2401 WIRE TOP REAR BALL SWG 3/32 1
5 10A-2251 AN4-25A 1
4
6 10T-1161 BUSH 3011-T3 .375 * .035 1
3
7 20A-1511 BUTTON SPRING HAULBACK LOCK 1
8 10R-0366 RIVET AL 3/16 X .375 CHAAPQ6-4 1 2
9 40P-3302 WIRE SET BTM REAR SLPSTR-LTSTR 1 6
10 20E-2321 TANG 1 HOLE 2 SLOT 5/8 WEBBING 1 7
11 10U-1140 WASHER STEEL AN960-416 1/4 THICK 1

1 8 10 11 9 5

TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05

.XX ± .015
U2/S2 Rear Keel NA C .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
U2 Rear Keel 3/6/2003 10/5/2004 PEARSON
 6 16

4 7 8 3 5 2 9 1 10

ID Part No Part Name QTY 12 5 11

1 15J-3010 Endcap for Wand Receptacle 1
2 20G-3120 Wand Receptacle 1
3 15J-3020 Disc for Composite Wand 1
4 10D-1651 NAS603-16P 1
15
5 10N-1730 CLINCH NUT 3/16 MS20142-3 2
17
6 10T-1141 BUSH 3003 7/32 X .1908 X 2.125 1
14
7 20E-2321 TANG 1 HOLE 2 SLOT 5/8 WEBBING 1
13
8 10G-1710 MS20392-2C71 1
9 10M-1651 SCREW PAN 8-32 X .375 THRD CUT 1
10 40R-7601 Tip Wand 1
11 20G-3140 Wand Lever 1
12 20G-3130 Wand Cup 1
13 10C-4061 NAS623-3-6 1
14 10C-4121 NAS623-3-12 1
15 10N-1230 LOCKNUT LOWPRO 3/16 AN364-3 1
16 10P-1100 SAFETY RING AN 9491 SMALL 1
17 10U-5110 WASHER NYLON .620 X .210 X .192 2
TITLE: REVISION:

Tip Wand Assembly C

SLDDWF ID: DOCUMENT ID: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY:
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647
rear leading edge and wand 5/28/2004 3/17/2004 PEARSON
Item Part No Rev Part Name QTY.
1 40K-1323 A KINGPOST STRM KP HANG W/BRKT 1 3
5
2 15J-1502 TOP AT KINGPOST POLYCARB 1 13
12
3 15J-1501 CAP AT KINGPOST TOP POLYCARB 1 14
4 20G-2323 B KINGPOST TOP INSERT AT ALUM 1 10
1
5 10M-1361 SCREW 6/32 FLSTR MACH HEAD SS 1
6 10T-1121 SPACER AL .313 X .028 X 1.140 1
7 10T-5132 BUSH FGLASS .414 X .337 X 1.0 1
8 10C-5201 NAS623-4-20 1
9 10N-1740 CLINCH NUT 1/4 MS21042-4 2
10 10R-0342 RIVET AL 1/8 X .25 2
11 45J-1411 A HANG LOOP INTGRL ASSY KP STOCK 1
12 40P-2301 WIRE TOP FRONT BALL SWG 3/32 1
13 40P-2401 WIRE TOP REAR BALL SWG 3/32 1
14 40P-2202 WIRE TOP SIDE BALL SWG 3/32 2
15 10A-2210 AN4-21 1
16 20G-2823 A Spreader Bar 1 pc Kingpost Hang 1
17 45G-3056 SOCK ELASTIC KP BASE WHITE 1
18 20P-1311 RAPIDLINK - OVAL 5MM 40MM SS 1

7
6
9
9
8
15
16
11

TITLE: PART NO:

Kingpost Assembly NA
SLDDWF ID: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: REVISION:
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 U2 Kingpost Assy 3/5/2003 9/9/2003 PEARSON B
Item Qnt Part No Rev Part Name
1 1 35C-2511 TUBE 1.0" * .042" AN 7075T6
2 1 15J-2301 D SPROG REAR END PADDLE 98
3 1 10N-3010 A Nut Sprog Adjustment
4 1 20G-2446 B SPROG THREADED ADJUSTER 98
6 1 20E-2307 A TANG 3 HOLE BENT SPROG CABLE
8 1 20G-2452 C BRACKET LE SPROG HINGE 52 RIGHT
9 1 20G-2441 C Sprog Fork Stainless
13 6 1 2
10 1 20G-2448 E Sprog Fork Hinge Pillar
11 1 10C-2361 NAS517-436
12 1 10T-4113 BUSH SS .312 X .028 X .240
13 2 10R-0605 MS20470 AD6-5
14 1 10C-4081 NAS623-3-8
17 1 10N-1730 CLINCH NUT 3/16 MS20142-3
18 1 10R-0366 RIVET AL 3/16 X .375 CHAAPQ6-4
19 2 10N-0040 LOCKNUT LOW PRO 52NKTE-048
20 1 10B-2191 AN24-19A

11 12 19 20 18 19

8 10 9 14 9 3 1

TITLE: REVISION:

Sprog Assy 2003 B

SLDDWF ID: DOCUMENT ID: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY:
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647
sprog assy 2003 NA NA 5/1/2003 NA PEARSON
 Item Part Number Description Qty

1 20C-1639 NPLATE 2003 ASSY W/KHOLE BUTN LOC 1

4 3 1 12 8
2 20C-1638 NOSEPLATE UNIVERSAL 2003 1
3 20G-2905 KEYHOLE COLLAR NUT ASSY 1
4 40P-3203 WIRE SET BOTTOM FRONT SLIPSTREAM 1
5 40P-2301 WIRE TOP FRONT BALL SWEDG 3/32 1
6 10U-1141 WASHER STEEL AN960-416 1/4 THIN 4
7 10T-5103 SPACER NY .560 X .320 X .187 4
8 10N-1740 CLINCH NUT 1/4 MS21042-4 3
9 10A-2301 AN4-30A 1
10 10A-2261 AN4-26A 3
11 20P-1237 PULLEY HARKN 16mm AIRBLOCK CHEEKBLOCK 1
12 10N-1220 LOCKNUT LOWPRO 0832 SS 1
13 10M-1651 SCREW PAN 8-32 X .375 THRD CUT 1
14 10D-2080 NAS602-2-8 1

5 7 9 13 11 14 2 6 10

TITLE: REVISION:

S2 Noseplate Assembly B
SLDDWF ID: DOCUMENT ID: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY:
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647
noseplate 2/26/2003 10/5/2004 PEARSON
 ITEM Part No Description QTY.
1 15J-2134 BALL XBAR CNTR BALL JNT 62B VG HOLE 1 Note orientation of brackets, right over left
2 15J-2117 SOCKET XBAR CNTR BALL JNT 62B 1
3 40P-4209 WIRE XBAR SWEEP U2/S2 SET SPREADER 1
12 8 14 5 13
4 20P-1333 SHACKLE - SM RONSTAN MOFIFIED 1
5 10C-4081 NAS623-3-8 2
6 10C-0071 NAS623-2-7 1
7 10C-5181 NAS623-4-18 1
8 10C-5071 NAS623-4-7 2
9 10N-1730 CLINCH NUT 3/16 MS20142-3 2
10 10N-1740 CLINCH NUT 1/4 MS21042-4 2
11 10N-1220 LOCKNUT LOWPRO 0832 SS 1
12 10N-0040 LOCKNUT LOW PRO 52NKTE-048 1
13 10U-1130 WASHER STEEL AN960-10 4
14 10U-1140 WASHER STEEL AN960-416 1/4 THICK 4
16 7 10 14 9 13 15
15 10U-5125 WASHER NYLON .75 X .316 X .020 4
16 10U-4100 WASHER BRASS .625X .281X .04 4
17 30J-3301 ROPE 4mm SUPER PRE-STRETCH 1
18 30J-3301 ROPE 4mm SUPER PRE-STRETCH 1
19 20P-1252 PULLEY RONSTAN TRIPLE W/BECKT 1
20 20P-1250 PULLEY RONSTAN TRIPLE NO BECKT 1
Note: Pulley configuration shown below is incorrect.
Pulley w/becket is attached to spreader. Pulley w/o becket
is attached with double loop of cord to crossbar.
11 3 6 4 20
19 17 18 1 2
TITLE: REVISION:
U2/S2 Xbar Center and VG E
SLDDWF ID: DOCUMENT ID: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY:
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647
U2 Ball Center 3/6/2003 7/30/2005 PEARSON
 15 16 14 13 22 12 7 8

18 9 19 20 19 21 6

ID Part No Part Name QTY

6 40P-3105 WIRE BOTTOM SIDE SLIPSTREAM 1
7 10A-2320 AN4-32 1
8 40P-2202 WIRE TOP SIDE BALL SWG 3/32 1
9 10N-1340 CASTLENUT 1/4 AN310-4 2
11 10A-2310 AN4-31 1
12 10N-1740 CLINCH NUT 1/4 MS21042-4 1
13 15C-6219 ENDCAP 62mm OD 58.2 ID 1
14 10P-1100 SAFETY RING AN 9491 SMALL 3
15 10G-2650 MS20392-3C65 1
16 20C-1740 XBAR PLATE RAMAIR .187 1
18 15D-2001 SADDLE 2 1
19 10U-1140 WASHER STEEL AN960-416 1/4 THICK 2
20 10B-2460 AN24-46 1
21 10C-5071 NAS623-4-7 1
22 10U-1140 WASHER STEEL AN960-416 1
TITLE: REVISION:

S2 Xbar LE Junction A
SLDDWF ID: DOCUMENT ID: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY:
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647
S2 Xbar LE 5/28/2004 PEARSON
ITEM NO. S2 155 COMPONENT MATERIAL LENGTH (in) LENGTH (mm) WEIGHT (lb)
Keel/QTY.
1 1 S2 155 keel front tube 42mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 98.13 2492.4 1.763
2 1 S2 155 keel front slv 44mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 6.00 152.4 0.112
3 1 S2 155 keel middle slv2 44mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 18.00 457.2 0.334
4 1 S2 155 keel rear slv 44mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 9.00 228.6 0.169
5 1 S2 155 keel stinger 42mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 37.00 939.8 0.656

94.50
62.00
55.50
.19 clevis pin
2.00 1.50 .55 18.25
1.63 2.00 1.50
.75 1.55 .75

.38
53.50 .45
93.13 4.00 2x .50 Bushed 0.40
98.13
2x .38 thru .19
.16
1 Nose batten stud 3x bushing .38
machined top side flush

1/30/2004 Revised from P3

62.5 to 62.0; 56 to 55.50
Wt 3.032 lb
TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05
.XX ± .015
S2 155 Keel A .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
S2 155 Airframe see BOM 1/30/2004 NA PEARSON
 S2 155
ITEM NO. Front COMPONENT MATERIAL LENGTH (in) LENGTH (mm) WEIGHT (lb)
LE/QTY.
1 1 S2 155 front le tube 50mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 133.00 3378.2 2.860

2 1 S2 155 Front LE front slv 52mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 3.00 76.2 0.066

3 1 S2 155 Front LE middle slv 52mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 24.00 609.6 0.536

141.00

128.00 12.00
1.00

4.00

Top view - assembly

7.50

.25
Side view - assembly

Wt 3.463 lb
TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05
.XX ± .015
S2 155 Front LE NA A .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
S2 155 Airframe see BOM 5/5/2003 1/30/2004 NA PEARSON
 S2 155
ITEM NO. Rear COMPONENT MATERIAL LENGTH (in) LENGTH (mm) WEIGHT (lb)
LE/QTY.
1 1 S2 155 rear le tube 50mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 62.00 1574.8 1.332

2 1 S2 155 rear le slv 52mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 3.00 76.2 0.067

Note: use 'G' drill to pin in fixture

.50

.25
DETAIL A - SLOT
SCALE 1 : 4

A
15.50
1.00
5.00

0.25 Thru 30
.25

Wt 1.399 lb

P2 2003.08.27 sprog hole moved from 16.5 to 15.5

TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05
.XX ± .015
S2 155 Rear LE NA A .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
S2 155 Airframe see BOM 5/5/2003 1/30/2004 NA PEARSON
ITEM NO. QTY COMPONENT MATERIAL LENGTH (in) LENGTH (mm) WEIGHT (lb)
1 1 S2 155 xbar tube 62mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 114.00 2895.6 3.051
2 1 S2 155 xbar slv 60mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 6.00 152.4 0.154

114.00

109.63
.75
.75

.25 .19

.38 .26
Thru all Bottom only

.63
3.00

6.00

Wt 3.205 lb
TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05
.XX ± .015
S2 155 Xbar NA A .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
S2 155 Airframe see BOM 5/5/2003 1/30/2004 NA PEARSON
 Item Part Name Length Length mm Material Weight S2 135
Keel/QTY.
1 S2 135 Keel front tube 98.13 2394.372 mm 42mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 1.763 1

2 S2 135 Keel front slv 6.00 146.4 mm 44mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 0.112 1

3 S2 135 Keel stinger 37.00 902.8 mm 42mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 0.658 1

4 S2 135 Keel middle slv2 18.00 439.2 mm 44mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 0.334 1

5 S2 135 Keel rear slv 8.00 195.2 mm 44mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 2.867 1

94.50
58.50 .55 .265 top only
52.00 1.55 .265 top .19 thru
2.00
1.50 12.00
1.63 .75 .19

50.00
93.13

3x bushing .38 .38

machined top side flush 2x .38 .25 thru
top side bushing machine flush

REV. DESCRIPTION DATE

A CG forward 0.5 1/26/2005

TITLE: REVISION:

S2 135 Keel A
SLDDWF ID: DOCUMENT ID: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY:
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647
S2 135 Airframe see BOM 30-May-05 26-Jan-05 NA PEARSON
 Item Part Name Length Length mm Weight S2 135 Front
Material LE/QTY.

1 S2 135 Front LE tube 122.00 2976.8 mm 50mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 2.624 1

2 S2 135 Front LE front slv 3.00 73.2 mm 52mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 0.066 1

3 S2 135 Front LE middle slv 20.00 488 mm 52mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 0.447 1

130.00
119.00 10.00
2 1
1.00

.38 Bushed

Top view - assembly

.50

Side view - assembly

8.00

TITLE: REVISION:

S2 135 Front LE A
SLDDWF ID: DOCUMENT ID: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY:
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647
S2 135 Airframe see BOM 30-May-05 26-Jan-05 NA PEARSON
 Item Part Name Length Length mm Weight S2 135 Rear
Material LE/QTY.

1 S2 135 Rear LE tube 57.00 1390.8 mm 50mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 1.225 1

2 S2 135 Rear LE slv 3.00 73.2 mm 52mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 0.067 1

Note: use 'G' drill to pin in fixture

.50

.25
DETAIL A - SLOT
SCALE 1 : 4

A
10.50
1.00
5.00

.25 0.25 Thru 30

TITLE: REVISION:

S2 135 Front LE A
SLDDWF ID: DOCUMENT ID: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY:
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647
S2 135 Airframe see BOM 30-May-05 26-Jan-05 NA PEARSON
 Item Part Name Length Length mm Weight S2 135
Material Xbar/QTY.
1 S2 135 Xbar tube 106.00 2586.4 mm 60mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 2.836 1

2 S2 135 Xbar slv 6.00 146.4 mm 62mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 0.154 1

106.00
.75
1.75

.19 one side only

.25 one side only

.63
3.63

6.00

TITLE: REVISION:

S2 135 Xbar A
SLDDWF ID: DOCUMENT ID: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY:
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647
S2 135 Airframe see BOM 30-May-05 26-Jan-05 NA PEARSON
ITEM NO. S2 175 COMPONENT MATERIAL LENGTH (in) LENGTH (mm) WEIGHT (lb)
Keel/QTY.
1 1 S2 175 keel front tube 42mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 101.63 2581.3 1.826

2 1 S2 175 keel front slv 44mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 6.00 152.4 0.112

3 1 S2 175 keel middle slv2 44mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 18.00 457.2 0.334

4 1 S2 175 keel rear slv 44mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 9.00 228.6 0.169

5 1 S2 175 keel stinger 42mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 37.00 939.8 0.656

98.00
65.50
59.00
.19 clevis pin
2.00 1.50 .55 18.25
1.63 2.00 1.50
.75 1.55 .75

.38
57.00 .45
96.63 4.00 2x .50 Bushed 0.40
101.63
2x .38 thru .19
.16
1 Nose batten stud 3x bushing .38
machined top side flush

Wt 3.095 lb
TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05
.XX ± .015
S2 175 Keel NA P1 .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
S2 175 Airframe see BOM 2/8/2005 2/8/2005 Proto PEARSON
ITEM NO. S2 175 Front COMPONENT MATERIAL LENGTH (in) LENGTH (mm) WEIGHT (lb)
LE/QTY.
1 1 S2 175 front le tube 50mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 145.00 3683.0 3.119

2 1 S2 175 Front LE front slv 52mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 3.00 76.2 0.066

3 1 S2 175 Front LE middle slv 52mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 36.00 914.4 0.805

153.00

134.00 18.00
1.00

Top view - assembly

8.00

7.50
Side view - assembly

Wt 3.990 lb
TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05
.XX ± .015
S2 175 Front LE NA P1 .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
S2 175 Airframe see BOM 2/8/2005 2/8/2005 Proto PEARSON
 S2 175
ITEM NO. Rear COMPONENT MATERIAL LENGTH (in) LENGTH (mm) WEIGHT (lb)
LE/QTY.
1 1 S2 175 rear le tube 50mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 62.00 1574.8 1.332

2 1 S2 175 rear le slv 52mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 3.00 76.2 0.067

Note: use 'G' drill to pin in fixture

.50

.25
DETAIL A - SLOT
SCALE 1 : 4

A
17.50
1.00
5.00

0.25 Thru 30
.25

Wt 1.399 lb
2/8/2005 Sprog 2in outbaord compared to S2 155
should be back 4.3", but it's 3 in longer and will extend past end of LE
may have to folt toward nose
TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05
.XX ± .015
S2 175 Rear LE NA P1 .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
S2 175 Airframe see BOM 2/8/2005 2/8/2005 Proto PEARSON
ITEM NO. COMPONENT MATERIAL LENGTH (in) LENGTH (mm) WEIGHT (lb) S2 175 Xbar/QTY.

1 S2 175 xbar tube 62mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 119 3022.6 3.249 1

2 S2 175 xbar slv 60mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 6 152.4 0.157 1
3 S2 175 xbar center slv 60mm x 0.9mm 7075-T6 48 1219.2 1.268 1

.75 117.50
.75

.25 .19

115.38 3.00
.38 .26
Thru all Bottom only

.63

35.50 35.50

Wt 4.674 lb
TITLE: PART NO: REVISION: T.U.S. .X ± .05
.XX ± .015
S2 175 Xbar NA B .XXX ± .003
SLDDWF ID: MATERIAL: DRAWN: REVISED: STATUS: BY: .XXXX ± .0005
500 BLUERIDGE AVE • ORANGE, CA 92865 • PH/FAX (714) 998-6359 / 998-0647 ANGLES ± 1/2
S2 175 Airframe see BOM 2005-02-08 2009-09-14 Released PEARSON