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    Shoe Making

    Uploaded by

    dossnesh
    This document provides information about footwear manufacturing processes. It begins by listing the aims of the lecture, which are to identify shoe components, understand the manufacturing process, know materials used, and understand different styles require different techniques. It then defines visible shoe parts and internal components. Several manufacturing steps are outlined, including pattern cutting, closing, lasting, and attaching the sole. Finishing includes paring, scouring, and packaging. The document emphasizes shoe making is an intricate process combining art and engineering, with an average shoe requiring 100-175 steps.

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    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as TXT, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    Shoe Making

    Uploaded by

    dossnesh
    497 views2 pages
    This document provides information about footwear manufacturing processes. It begins by listing the aims of the lecture, which are to identify shoe components, understand the manufacturing process, know materials used, and understand different styles require different techniques. It then defines visible shoe parts and internal components. Several manufacturing steps are outlined, including pattern cutting, closing, lasting, and attaching the sole. Finishing includes paring, scouring, and packaging. The document emphasizes shoe making is an intricate process combining art and engineering, with an average shoe requiring 100-175 steps.

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    shoe making

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    This document provides information about footwear manufacturing processes. It begins by listing the aims of the lecture, which are to identify shoe components, understand the manufacturing process, know materials used, and understand different styles require different techniques. It then defines visible shoe parts and internal components. Several manufacturing steps are outlined, including pattern cutting, closing, lasting, and attaching the sole. Finishing includes paring, scouring, and packaging. The document emphasizes shoe making is an intricate process combining art and engineering, with an average shoe requiring 100-175 steps.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as TXT, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as txt, pdf, or txt
    497 views2 pages

    Shoe Making

    Uploaded by

    dossnesh
    This document provides information about footwear manufacturing processes. It begins by listing the aims of the lecture, which are to identify shoe components, understand the manufacturing process, know materials used, and understand different styles require different techniques. It then defines visible shoe parts and internal components. Several manufacturing steps are outlined, including pattern cutting, closing, lasting, and attaching the sole. Finishing includes paring, scouring, and packaging. The document emphasizes shoe making is an intricate process combining art and engineering, with an average shoe requiring 100-175 steps.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as TXT, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as txt, pdf, or txt
    of 2

    Footwear Manufacturing

    This lecture is intended to involve self-directed learning - ie.


    there will be no formal lecture. However, there are a number of aims of this le
    cture, which are:
    1. To be able to identify and name the common components of a shoe (eg. vamp, up
    per, tongue...).
    2. To have a general understanding of the manufacturing process involved in the
    making of a shoe.
    3. What materials are used for the upper, midsole and sole in a range of shoe ty
    pes?
    4. To be aware that different styles of footwear require vastly different manufa
    cturing techniques.
    ________________________________________
    Anatomy of a shoe

    Visible parts
    1. The Quarter : member of the 'backpart' of the shoe, horseshoe shaped piece of
    leather, cradles heel of foot
    2. Topline: top edge of the quarter
    3. Heel: obvious part, 'top lift' part in contact with ground, 'heel base' betwe
    en toplift and sole, 'heel seat' inside shoe where heel contacts, many variation
    s: Cuban, Louis, Wedge, etc.
    4. Instep: location which corresponds to instep of foot
    5. Waist: area of shoe between instep and ball of foot
    6. Tongue: leather flat under laces
    7. Throat: area just in front of waist and behind ball on upper surface of shoe
    8. Vamp: technically whole forepart of shoe upper, but more commonly top surface
    of the ball
    9. Toe cap: reinforcement piece over toe of shoe
    10. Outsole: bottom layer of shoe in contact with ground
    11. Shank: part of outsole under arch of foot
    ________________________________________
    Components of a shoe
    1. Outsole: various materials used, material varies according to: quality/style/
    utility requirements
    2. Insole: structural hub of shoe, many other components attached to it, usually
    made of leather, must absorb moisture, be light and flexible, resist curling an
    d cracking
    3. Midsole: for shoes requiring heavy or reinforced base, between outsole and in
    sole, usually composite material
    4. Counter: reinforcement for back of shoe, stiffened fibre material, shaped to
    contour to sides and back of heel, helps to keep the shape of the shoe
    5. Box Toe (toe puff): reinforcement concealed beneath upper at toe
    6. Shankpiece: sandwiched between outside and inside along shank of shoe under a
    rch, NOT an arch support, reinforcement to strengthen 'bridge' between heel and
    forefoot, usually made of metal
    ________________________________________
    Linings of a shoe
    1. Quarter Lining: horseshoe shape around back part of shoe
    2. Vamp Lining: inside upper of forepart and toe of shoe
    3. Sock Lining: covering all OR part of the top surface of the insole
    ________________________________________
    Processes in shoe making
    1. Lasts
    The word 'last' is derived from the old Anglo-Saxon word 'laest' which means foo
    tprint or foot track. The last determines the fit and feel of the shoe as well a
    s 'wear performance'. Lasts used to be made of hardwoods, but now are mainly mad
    e of plastic as they don't swell or shrink. Metal lasts are used in some manufac
    turing processes.
    The design of the last is determined by the shoe manufacturer. With Clarks shoe
    company, many thousands of people are measured annually to make sure that the la
    sts produced by the company match the feet of the general population.
    A model maker translates specifications into original models - other sizes and w
    idths are graded up or down from the original - holding true to the last shape.
    Design considerations include: foot movements, manufacturing process, intended p
    opulation, purpose of footwear and fashion. There are over 30 measurements requi
    red in the construction of a modern last. Lasts can be 'straight' or 'curved' (f
    lared) - either inflared or out flared.
    ________________________________________
    2. Pattern cutting
    Sectional patterns are produced for the uppers, linings, insoles, heels, soles,
    stiffeners, backers and toe puffs. The lasting allowance is added. The materials
    used in making the shoes are cut from these working patterns.
    ________________________________________
    3. Cutting
    Traditionally called 'clicking'. There is an art to cutting leather due to the n
    ature of the material - grain, blemishes, tightness etc. Cutting is done by hand
    with curved hand knives, or with a beam press with shaped press knives to the r
    equired pattern.
    ________________________________________
    4. Closing
    Uppers are counted, checked, matched and marked for identification. They are pie
    rced, punched, embossed or perforated, and then skived, seamed, positioned with
    linings and sewn. All the aesthetic coverings/modifations to the upper are carri
    ed out in this department of the factory.
    ________________________________________
    5. Making
    The completed upper and sole are united. The method of construction depends upon
    the style and purpose of the shoe. Making is basically two processes:
    A) Lasting: stretching upper on to last
    The upper is stretched over the last and attached at the bottom. Strain is appli
    ed at different points on the upper to stretch it on. All the stretch is taken o
    ut of leather during lasting, such that the shoe maintains the last shape.
    B) Attaching the sole
    Attaching: there are many different methods for attaching sole to upper
    cemented construction
    injection moulded
    veldshoen construction
    machine welted
    vulcanized construction
    slip lasted construction
    machine sewn construction
    Each has its advantages and disadvantages, however this information will not be
    discussed here (otherwise you'll fall asleep from boredom!). However the picture
    s below should give you an idea of the different ways that the sole can be attac
    hed to the upper.
    ________________________________________
    6. Finishing
    Paring, scouring, application of final stains and polishes, then the shoe is tag
    ged, boxed and off to market.
    ________________________________________
    As you can see, the manufacturing of a shoe is a complicated process, requiring
    a combination of art and precision engineerng. It requires from 100 to 175 diffe
    rent operations to make an average shoe.
    ________________________________________

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