COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

SECTOR : AGRICULTURE AND FISHERY

QUALIFICATION : ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NCII

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PRODUCE ORGANIC VEGETABLES

MODULE TITLE : PRODUCING ORGANIC VEGETABLES

 HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING
MATERIAL

The unit of competency, “Produce Organic Vegetables”, is one of the

competencies of Organic Agriculture Production NCII, a course which
comprises the knowledge, skills, and attitudes required for a TVET trainee to
possess.
The module, Producing Organic Vegetables, covers the knowledge,
skills and attitude required to establish nursery, plant seedlings, perform
plant care and perform harvest and post-harvest.
In this module, you are required to go through a series of learning
activities in order to complete each learning outcome. In each learning
outcome are Information Sheets, Self-checks, Operation Sheets, Task Sheets,
and Job Sheets. Follow and perform the activities on your own. If you have
questions, do not hesitate to ask for assistance from your facilitator.
Remember to:
 Read information sheet and complete the self-checks.
 Perform the Task Sheets, Operation Sheets, and Job Sheets until you
are confident that your outputs conform to the Performance Criteria
Checklists that follow the said work sheets.
 Submit outputs of the Task Sheets, Operation Sheets, and Job Sheets
to your facilitator for evaluation and recording in the Achievement
Chart. Outputs shall serve as your portfolio during the Institutional
Competency Evaluation. When you feel confident that you have had
sufficient practice, ask your trainer to evaluate you. The results of your
assessment will be recorded in your Achievement Chart and Progress
Chart.
You must pass the Institutional Competency Evaluation for this
competency before moving to another competency. A Certificate of
Achievement will be awarded to you after passing the evaluation.

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 ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NCII
COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIALS

LIST OF COMPETENCIES

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

1 Raise organic chicken Raising organic chicken AGR612301

2 Produce organic Producing organic AGR611306

vegetables vegetables

3 Produce organic fertilizer Producing organic fertilizer AGR611301

4 Produce organic Producing organic AGR611302

concoctions and extracts concoctions and extracts

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QUALIFICATION : ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NCII

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PRODUCE ORGANIC FERTILIZER

MODULE TITLE : PRODUCING ORGANIC FERTIZER

INTRODUCTION

This unit covers the knowledge, skills and attitude required

to establish nursery, plant seedlings, perform plant care and
perform harvest and post-harvest.

NOMINAL DURATION:

LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, you MUST be able to:

1. Prepare Composting area and raw materials

2. Compost and Harvest fertilizer

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Seeds are selected in accordance with the PNS, and NSQCS/BPI.

2. Seedbeds are prepared in accordance with planting requirements based
on Vegetable Production manual (VPM).
3. Care and maintenance of seedlings are done in accordance with
enterprise practice.
4. Potting media are prepared in accordance with enterprise procedure.
5. Land preparation is carried out in accordance with enterprise practice
6. Beneficial micro-organisms are introduced prior to planting in
accordance with enterprise procedure
7. Seedlings are transplanted/planted based on VPM recommendations
8. Seedlings are watered based on VPM recommendations
9. Water management is implemented according to plan.
10. Effective control measures are determined on specific pest and diseases
as described under the “pest, disease and weed management” of the
PNS

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11. All missing hills are replanted to maintain the desired plant population
of the area
12. Plant rejuvenation/rationing are maintained according to PNS.
13. Organic fertilizers are applied in accordance with fertilization policy of
the PNS
14. Products are checked using maturity indices according to to PNS, PNS-
organic agriculture and enterprise practice.
15. Marketable products are harvested according to PNS, PNS-organic
agriculture and enterprise practice.
16. Harvested vegetables are classified according to PNS, PNS-organic
agriculture and enterprise practice.
17. Appropriate harvesting tools and materials are used according to PNS.
18. Post-harvest practices are applied according to PNS and GAP
recommendations
19. Production record is accomplished according to enterprise procedures.

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 LEARNING OUTCOME #1 Prepare composting area and raw
materials

CONTENTS:
1. Seeds
2. Care and Maintenance of Seedlings
3. Prepare Seedbeds

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Seeds are selected in accordance with the PNS, and NSQCS/BPI.

2. Seedbeds are prepared in accordance with planting requirements
based on Vegetable Production manual (VPM).
3. Care and maintenance of seedlings are done in accordance with
enterprise practice.
4. Potting media are prepared in accordance with enterprise
procedure.

CONDITIONS:
All supplies, materials and farm implements needed during farm
operations should be readily available at the farm site.

Equipment and facilities such as:

 Booth/temporary shed
 Cart (Kariton & paragus)
 Comb-tooth harrow
 Computer
 Crates
 Farm/ field
 Greenhouse/ nursery
 Harvesting equipment
 Irrigation system (sprinkler, mist/ drip irrigation)
 Mower (grass cutter)
 Over head projector (OHP)
 Portable chain saw
 Post-Harvest treatment equipment
 Power sprayer
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  Rotavator
 Service vehicle
 Sorting equipment
 Spike tooth harrow
 Storage room
 Surface irrigation system

Tools and instruments such as:

 Bolos
 Broomstick
 Calculator
 Container
 Cutting tools
 Digging tools
 Drying meter
 Fruit crate
 Harvesting tools
 Hat
 Knapsack sprayer
 Knife
 Light hoe
 Moisture meter
 Petri-dish
 pH meter
 Pick mattock
 Picking knife
 Plow
 Plumbing tools
 Post-Harvest treatment tools
 Protective gadgets
 Pruning shears

Supplies and Materials such as:

 Agri bags, plastic
 Bamboo stick
 Basket
 Bond paper
 Catching nets
 Clips
 Coconut dust
 Compost
 Fertilizers
 First aide supplies/ medicine
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  Flower inducer
 Fungicides
 Gloves
 Growing media (garden soil, sewed sand, compost, soil, manure
and sawdust/rice)
 Killing bottles
 Marking pens
 Masks
 Mulching material
 Hair nets
 Packaging materials, assorted
 Pail

All workers involved in different activities must be fully oriented and

cautioned on the different specific work activities of the farm

Technical supervisors should have skills and ability in the successful

implementation of work program activities

METHODOLOGY:
 Demonstration
 Discussion
 Oral questioning
 Video presentation
 Field demonstration
 Film viewing

ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 Direct observation with oral questioning
 Demonstration
 Written exam
 Interview

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 Learning Experiences

Learning Outcome 1

Composting area and raw materials

Learning Activities Special Instructions

Read Information Sheets 2.1-1 Read and understand the information

on Seeds sheet and check yourself by answering
the self-check. You must answer all
Answer Self-Check 2.1-1 questions correctly before proceeding to
the next activity. You may check your
Read Information Sheet 2.1-2
answer by using the answer key.
on Care and Maintenance of
Seedlings Task/Job/Operation Sheets will help you
practice your skills.
Answer Self-Check 2.1-2
The performance criteria checkilist will
Read Information Sheet 2.1-3
guide and help you evaluate your work as
on Prepare Seedbeds
you are practicing your skill
Answer Self-Check 2.1-3 Evaluate your own work using the
performance criteria. When you are
Perform Job Sheet 2.1-3 on
ready, present your work to your trainer
Prepare Seed Beds
for final evaluation and recording.

After doing all activities of this LO -

Establish nursery, you are ready to
proceed to the next LO - Plant seedling.

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 INFORMATION SHEET 2.1-1
SEEDS

Learning Objectives:

After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:

1. Describe the structure and composition of Seed.

2. Understand and discuss vegetable seed production technology

Seeds are the vital part of agriculture. Selection of good quality seeds is a
challenge for famers. Only good quality seeds which are sown properly can
give an expected result or yield. Seeds of variety of types and strains are
available; cultivators have to choose from these and these have to be sown in
the field. Let us see selection of seeds and methods of sowing.

Seed Selection

Healthy, good quality seeds are the root

of a healthy crop. Hence selection of
seeds is crucial. Selection helps to
obtain healthy seeds; sustain and
optimize the quality of crop strain.
Based on plant size, quantity of grains,
fruit size or colour, disease resistance
etc. seeds can be selected. Farmers also
need to check the germination period,
nutrients required so that the selected
seedswill be beneficial in terms of yield and finance.Some seeds are sources
of diseases; they can be used after proper treatment like chemical or hot water
treatments etc. A careful observation of crops and their yield in first year may
help farmers to choose best strains of seeds for successive years. Hence for
high yield, sow best seeds.

Sowing

After the preparation of soil, the previously selected seeds are scattered in the
field. This is called sowing. Sowing should be done carefully and uniformly. If
seeds are not sown uniformly, overcrowding of crop happens. For sufficient
sunlight, water and other requirements congestion needs to be prevented.

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Traditionally, sowing is done manually whereas nowadays seed drilling
machines are used.

Traditional method: Here seeds are sown either by hand or by using tools.
Sowing of seeds by hand is called broadcasting. This is cheap but a uniform
distribution is not maintained. Alternatively, a funnel like tool filled with seeds
is used. Seeds are passed through pipes deep into soil.

Drilling machine: This is a modern method where sowing is done by iron

drills connected to a tractor. Here also funnels filled with seeds are present at
the top of drill. When plough moves, seeds are distributed into the furrow
made by plough and covered. This method is more advantageous than
traditional method. They distribute seeds at regular distances and depth and
are also profitable in terms of both labour and time.

Selection and sowing of seeds are two agricultural practices which demand
extreme attention and care.

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Self-Check 2.1-1
True or False
Write TRUE if the statement is correct and false if it is incorrect

1. Seeds are the vital part of land.

2. Selection of good quality seeds is a challenge for famers.
3. Only good quality seeds which are sown properly can give an expected
result or yield.
4. Seeds of variety of types and strains are available; cultivators have to
choose from these and these have to be sown in the field.
5. For sufficient sunlight, water and other requirements congestion needs
to be prevented.

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Answer Key 2.1-1
1. False
2. True
3. True
4. True
5. True

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 INFORMATION SHEET 2.1-2
COMPOST AND HARVEST FERTILIZER

Learning Objectives:

After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:

1. Understand and discuss care and maintenance of seedlings

Seed pre-treatments and seed storage

If seeds are enclosed in a fleshy fruit, remove as much as possible of the flesh
with a knife, wash off the rest under water, and plant the seeds immediately.
Fruit flesh attracts insects and fungi which may damage the seed, so it’s
important to plant the seed as soon as you can. For seeds in a seed pod, such
as a bean, let the pods split open naturally by laying them in a semishaded
place. Similarly, for other fruits with a woody outer coating, drying them in
semi-shade or gently cracking should open them and let you collect the seed.
Some sun is good, but be careful not to overheat, which might kill the seeds.

A good nursery practice is to pre-treat the seeds, if they

take more than a week to germinate. You will save time
and resources by pre-treating seeds. Faster production
time in the nursery lowers nursery costs and may also
allow the farmers to plant the seedlings during the best
planting times. If you are unsure how long the seed will
take to germinate, sow some BEFORE you sow all of the
seeds to find out. There are four basic types of seed
pretreatment used in the lowland tropics of Latin America. Sulphuric acid is
sometimes recommended as a fifth seed pre-treatment but, because of the
danger and cost involved, we do not recommend it. In order to determine the
best pre-treatment method, take a few handfuls of seed and try the methods
described on the next page in the order given. If most of the seed germinates
well with the first method, then that is probably sufficient. If not, try the next
method and so on until you obtain the best germination rates.

The seeds contain two parts: an outer protective coat, and the inner embryo
that develops into the plant. Germination begins when water penetrates the
seed coat and the seed swells. When seeds swell, plant immediately. Discard
seeds that float; they probably have air pockets caused by insects or dead
embryos. Always use 2–5 parts of water for each part of seed (e.g. two to five
tablespoons of water for one tablespoon of seed). Change the water every 12
hours to remove chemicals that may also slow down germination. Do some
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tests to see the best orientation for sowing the seeds. This is especially
important if the shoots or roots are twisted when they emerge from the seed,
which is common in mahogany and mango. In southern Mexico, the common
way to sow mahogany seedlings is with the wing pointing up. But in one
nursery, the manager noticed that the best way to plant was with the wing
pointed down. In Puerto Rico, it is recommended by a forest research station
that seed be planted flat. In such cases, you should do trials of all three
methods and see what works best under the conditions you have.

Four basic seed pre-treatments

1. Cold water treatment: Soak seeds in cold water for at least 12 and up
to 48 hours. You can also try soaking the seeds in water during the day,
and leaving them to dry at night.
2. Hot water treatment: Boil water in a large pot, remove from heat and
cool for 10 minutes. Add seed to water and let soak for up to two days.
3. Boiling water treatment: Boil water in a large pot, remove from heat,
add seed and leave for two minutes. Pour off the hot water and replace
with cold water. Soak the seed for up to two days.
4. Mechanical: It is important not to damage the embryo, or the part of
the seed where the root will emerge (usually an indented place or a
pointed area). Nick the seed with a knife, crack it with a stick, or scratch
its surface on a concrete floor, or with sandpaper. For small seed, place
in a jar lined with sandpaper facing the inside of the jar, and shake
vigorously. It is not necessary to completely remove the tough outer
seed coat — just crack it so that water can enter the seed and trigger
germination.

A good nursery practice is to sow the seed immediately after collecting, or

store correctly if necessary. You should plan ahead and have containers filled,
so that seed can be sown without delay. If you must store seed before sowing,
make sure it is kept well ventilated in a cloth or mesh sack, or in clay pots.
These materials ‘breathe’ and reduce the chance of mould. If a refrigerator is
available, you can use plastic bags or containers.

Only clean, dry seed should be stored. Hang the sacks from a pole so that air
can circulate all around them. Keep the seed in a cool dry place, out of direct
sunlight. A fungicide may help reduce fungus attack. Moth balls or other
strong-smelling materials like cedar wood may also help reduce insect attack.
Check seed regularly for signs of decay, insect or rodent damage.

The length of time seed can be stored for varies greatly between species. Some
seed can be stored for many months, while other seeds lose their viability
(ability to germinate quickly). If the seed has been stored for more than one
month, a good nursery practice is to test the germination rate to see if the

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seed is still good. A poor, but unfortunately common nursery practice is to
sow old seed in many containers, without knowing if it will germinate — you
might be wasting time, labour, and resources. Sow 100 seeds in a shady
germination bed and water normally. Count the number of seeds that
germinate, and this will tell you how many you need to put into each container
to achieve one plant per pot. If, for example, only 25 out of 100 seeds
germinate, sow four in each container.

Controlling germination

The most important factor for

good germination is constant
humidity around the seed.
Seeds can be covered with
sieved soil, sand, rice hulls or
pine needles, to keep them
moist. A light material allows
the tender roots and shoots
to emerge without hindrance.
The substrate should be
moist, but not soggy; excess
water should drain off. It is
often recommended that you
plant large seeds deeply and
small seeds close to the surface. While this is usually sensible, if the substrate
dries out quickly, or water is not always available, you will need to plant the
seeds deeper. If the water pressure in the hose is very high, it may wash the
seeds out, so again, plant the seeds deeper. A good nursery practice is to
carefully control the light, water and shade conditions during initial seedling
growth. Shade helps retain humidity and prevents new leaves from scorching.
This can be achieved in a seed bed as well as directly in the container.

The substrate should not receive additional fertilizer because this could
increase the risk of diseases such as damping-off. Germinating seedlings
generally receive all nutrients they require from the cotyledons (or in the case
of palms, from the first leaf), that are formed inside of the seed. Thus, a
substrate like sand, which does not contain fertilizer, is generally a good
germinating medium. Damping-off is common with small seedlings and is
recognisable as either decayed seed or, more frequently, decay around the
stem at the soil line. The leaves of the seedling droop as though they need
water, although the substrate is wet, then the stem appears “pinched” and
brown near the base. Eventually, the seedling falls over at the soil line.

Damping-off is caused by fungi which can be present on the surface of the

seed or in the substrate. Seed can be sterilized by immersing it for 30 minutes

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in a 10% solution of clorox (1 tablespoon of bleach plus 9 tablespoons water).
Hydrogen peroxide, a common antiseptic available at the pharmacy, is also
an effective seed sterilant. Its advantages are that it is less toxic than bleach,
and it can increase germination because it softens the seed coat allowing
water and oxygen to enter more easily. Seed is soaked directly in the antiseptic
for up to four hours. With both bleach and hydrogen peroxide, some
experimentation may be necessary to find the most effective solution strength
and soaking time. A 30 minute soak with hot (just too hot to touch
comfortably — definitely not boiling) water also works well on seed. The
substrate can be sterilized by wetting the area well with water then covering
the area with a black plastic sheet for several days while it stands in abundant
sunshine. The heat kills bacteria, fungi, and weed seeds. You can sterilize
sand by washing it several times until the wash water appears perfectly clear.

When deciding whether sterilization is necessary, first determine whether

seedling growth is being harmed by something living in the soil by carefully
examining the type of damage to the plant. Is the damage at the soil line or at
the roots? If yes, then sterilization may be necessary. Test the different
methods to determine if seedling growth really improves. A good nursery
practice is to carefully recognize the type of damage on the seedling, and
control the specific problem with the right method for that particular pest.
Remember that sterilization of the substrate can also kill beneficial fungi,
bacteria and insects. Certain bacteria and fungi are necessary to break down
organic matter or help plants better absorb nutrients. Many insects too are
useful because they eat other insects that eat plants.

Direct sowing versus seed beds

Most nurseries use seed beds to germinate

seeds. In fact, many nursery manuals
recommend using them for all seedlings and
give specific instructions on how to build
‘beautiful’ seed beds. We take a different
approach. We strongly recommend sowing
the seed directly in the container, and using
germination beds only in special cases. We do
so because we believe that this is best for
seedling growth.

Some of the common problems with seed beds are that:

 pricking out almost always results in root deformities

 when plants are left in the seed bed too long (which often happens),
they produce long roots that are easily damaged or twisted when
pricked out
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  many seedlings suffer a ‘shock’ when they are transplanted from seed
beds — their growth is slowed for 1–4 weeks before they begin to show
visible new growth
 pricking out is often done by staff with little nursery experience, and
even people with experience often prick out incorrectly, and
 paying people by the number of plants pricked out in one day gives no
incentive to prick out correctly.

When to direct sow seed

Careful control of water, light and nutrients is required during germination

and during the first weeks of seedling growth. Directly sowing the seeds in the
container saves time, labour and money, because the extra step of preparing
a seed bed and transplanting is eliminated. Even if it takes a little longer to
plant small seed directly in the containers or if they have to be moved and
resown, this is easier and cheaper than pricking out. Direct sowing allows
undisturbed seedling growth and thus reduces stress for the seedling. In a
well managed nursery, seedlings can almost always be directly sown!

When you are direct sowing, follow these good nursery practices:

 use only fresh and ripe seed

 pre-treat seed, if necessary, to speed up germination
 prepare containers and shade in advance
 mix small seed with sand or rice hulls, or use a bottle with a screen top
(like a salt shaker, but larger), to make dispersing it easier
 test seed for viability before sowing. If less than 70% germinate, plant
more than one seed per bag. Throw away any extra seedlings in each
pot. This is a small price to pay to avoid root deformities.

Watering

Although it’s a simple fact that plants need water, watering itself can be a
little tricky. Consistent watering will produce the best results. You may also
want to consider drip irrigation or a soaker hose, especially if you have a large
garden. This can save up to 60% of the water used by sprinkler systems and
will ensure that your plants are watered without getting their leaves wet,
which will help prevent disease problems.

You’ll know if you’ve over watered if the soil around the plant stem is soaked.
Mold or moss growing on the top of your soil is another dead giveaway as is
plants with wilting, yellowing or dead leaf margins.

Too little water has a different set of symptoms: wilting of plants, brown or
dead leaves, stunted growth (see Watering Guidelines).
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Besides direct observation, you can also purchase a moisture meter to help
measure whether roots are too wet or too dry.

If you’re watering newly planted seeds, be careful to gently sprinkle water on

them. Don’t use a torrent from a hose or a bucket that has enough force to
mistakenly wash away seeds or cause them to clump together.

Know your soil

Different soil types have different watering needs. However, you don’t need to
be a soil scientist to know how to water properly. The following tips are
provided by the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service:

 Loosen the soil around plants so it can quickly absorb water and
nutrients.
 Use a 1 to 2-inch protective layer of mulch on the soil surface above the
root area. Cultivating and mulching reduce evaporation and soil
erosion.

Clay soil: Add organic material such as compost or peat moss. Till or spade
to help loosen the soil. Since clay soil absorbs water very slowly, water only
as fast as the soil absorbs the water.

Sandy soil: Add organic material to supplement sandy soil. Otherwise, the
water can run through it so quickly that plants won’t be able to absorb it.

Loam soil: The best kind of soil. It’s a combination of sand, silt, and clay.
Loam absorbs water readily and stores it for plants to use.

Foliar feeding

Foliar feeding is a technique of feeding plants by applying liquid fertilizer

directly to their leaves.[1] Plants are able to absorb essential elements through
their leaves.[2] The absorption takes place through their stomata and also
through their epidermis. Transport is usually faster through the stomata, but
total absorption may be as great through the epidermis. Plants are also able
to absorb nutrients through their bark.

Foliar feeding was earlier thought to damage tomatoes, but has become
standard practice.

Ocean-based sources

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A popular version of the feeding is to use sea-based plant mixes, especially
kelp, which contains many of the fifty "trace nutrients"; the more such
nutrients are needed, the harder it is to balance them within the soil. Kelp
also contains some hormones considered good for the development of the
plants' leaves, flowers and fruit, of interest to organic gardeners who reject
artificial hormone applications.

Effectiveness

H.B. Tukey was head of Michigan State University (MSU) Department of

Horticulture in the 1950s. Working with S. H. Wittwer, they proved
conclusively that foliar feeding is effective. Radioactive phosphorus and
potassium were applied to foliage.[3] A Geiger counter was used to observe
absorption, movement and nutrient utilization. The nutrients were
transported at the rate of about one foot per hour to all parts of the plants.[4]
Juice from plant leaves can be tested with a refractometer. If after feeding the
amount of light refracted significantly rises, at least some nutrients have been
absorbed. A spray enhancer can help nutrients stick to the leaf and then
penetrate the leaves' cuticle.

Foliar application has been shown to avoid the problem of leaching-out in

soils and prompts a quick reaction in the plant. Of the micronutrients, foliar
application of phosphorus, zinc and iron brings the greatest benefit in
comparison with addition to soil where phosphorus becomes fixed in a form
inaccessible to the plant[5] and where zinc and iron are less available.

Usage

Foliar feeding is generally done in the early morning or late evening, preferably
at temperatures below 24°C (75°F), since heat causes the pores on some
species' leaves to close.

Pest Management

It is important to develop an understanding of both key and minor (or

occasional) pests that are found in crops in your area. Examples of common
insect pests and diseases found in vegetable crops are listed in Table 1 and
within resources found under Vegetable Resources at the end of the factsheet.

Table 1. Common insect pests and diseases of vegetables (will vary between
crops and regions)
Insect Pests Diseases
Major Minor Major Minor/sporadic
Heliothis Rutherglen bugs Sclerotinia Anthracnose

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Diamondback Cutworm, Tomato spotted Botritis (major in
moth (brassicas loopers, cluster wilt virus onions in some
only) caterpillars areas)
Silverleaf Wireworm & false Powdery mildew Fusarium (major
whitefly wireworm in cucurbits in
some areas)
Western flower Leafhoppers Downy mildew Rhizoctonia
thrips (WFT)
(when virus
present)
Tomato or onion Thrips (when Mosaic viruses Pythium
thrips (when virus absent)
virus levels high)
Aphids (when Aphids (when Alternaria
virus levels high) virus levels low)

It is equally important to know and understand the management options that

are available to you as a grower. As more ‘tools’ become available, it is
important to know when and how they can be used, and what effect they will
have on the management of your pests. The knowledge that is developed about
both the pest and the management tools available is also largely dependent
on the local area and the experience you gain on your own farm. What works
on one part of your farm may, for some reason, not work on another, and
what works for your neighbour may not be the most appropriate option for
you. The ideas behind IPM are based around knowing your ‘enemy’ and
understanding the ‘weapons’ at your disposal.

Prevention

Where possible, it is preferable to prevent pest problems rather than manage

them after they arrive – prevention is always better than cure. What measures
you use will depend on your particular situation and what are your most
serious pests. The following are some prevention strategies that can be
important for vegetables:

1. From the available varieties, select ones that have resistance to or

tolerance of important diseases or insect pests in your area.

2. Seeds and seedlings can be a source of pests (including: insects,

diseases, weeds) use certified seed, know your nursery’s management
practices and inspect seedlings for pests. If you are using biological
control agents, for example, this includes knowing and understanding
the effects of chemical residues left from nursery pesticide applications
on seedlings.
Document No. AGR611306
Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01
 3. If possible, minimize susceptible crops in the ground during periods of
high pest pressure.
4. Irrigating to minimise the period of leaf wetness will reduce foliar
diseases.

5. When foliar diseases are present avoid working in the crops while foliage
is wet to reduce spread.

6. Optimal nutrition – avoiding excess nitrogen will reduce crop

susceptibility to some fungal diseases.

7. Remove weeds from within and around cropping areas particularly if

western flower thrips (WFT) and tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV), are
a problem, or the weeds are known hosts of crop diseases or insect
pests; e.g. sow thistles are hosts of lettuce necrotic yellows virus and
brassica weeds are hosts of a range of brassica diseases and insect
pests.

8. Chipping out and removing (roguing) diseased plants will reduce the
source of host plants that assist in spreading infection to healthy
plants. Once chipped, the plants need to be properly destroyed: buried,
bagged or removed from site.

9. Cultivating paddocks immediately after harvest, or if crop is abandoned

for some reason, will reduce the harbouring potential for pests, and
thus reduce their potential to spread to other plantings on your farm.

10. Use crop records to identify factors or management practices that may
be encouraging or discouraging pests. Because IPM is knowledge-based
and relies on local experience, this information will improve your ability
to use IPM effectively in subsequent seasons, by allowing you to see
what did and didn’t work.

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01
Self-Check 2.1-2
True or False
Write TRUE if the statement is correct and false if it is incorrect
1. From the available varieties, select ones that have resistance to or
tolerance of important diseases or insect pests in your area.

2. Seeds and seedlings can be a source of pests

3. If possible, minimize susceptible crops in the ground during periods of

high pest pressure.

4. It is equally important to know and understand the management

options that are available to you as a grower.

5. As more ‘tools’ become available, it is important to know when and how

they can be used, and what effect they will have on the management of
your pests.

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01
Answer Key 2.1-2
1. True
2. True
3. True
4. True
5. False

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01
If you are going to be a serious gardener, you'll probably need a seed bed
where you can sow the seeds and bring on the seedlings for later transferring
to the final position of the plants (alternatively, sowing in trays will do just as
well for many plants). The main reasons for having a seed bed are:

 Some young seedlings need less space than the mature plant, so less of
the garden need be committed to a crop until it is really necessary.
 A crop may be started off in the seed bed while its final position has
another crop waiting to be harvested.

It must be noted that not all plant seeds are suitable for starting off in a seed
bed; a large number of plants cannot be successfully transplanted so these
seeds need to be planted in their final location.

Position for a seed bed

A seed bed may be thought of, incorrectly, as a rather unimportant part of the
garden which can be tucked away in some corner. It must be remembered
that seed germination and early growth of any plant has an important
influence on the final quality of the plant - if the seed bed is shaded by hedges
or buildings, the seedlings may grow weak and spindly. Similarly drainage of
the bed is important, seeds generally don't do well if they become waterlogged
(nor if they dry out).

Ideally the seed bed should:

 Be in a open, but sheltered, position with good drainage.

 Be free of perennial weeds as weeding between the small seedlings can
be difficult and time consuming.
 If the garden is a haven for the local pets, it is worthwhile putting wire
netting around the bed.
 Do not use a bed which was used to grow potatoes in the previous year,
any sprouting potatoes left from the crop will be a problem around the
young seedlings.

Preparing the seed bed

The requirement for a seed bed is basically the same as for any vegetable bed,
except that the soil need be only forked to a relatively shallow depth. If it is a
new bed (i.e. never previously used to grow plants), the bed will need to be
dug and prepared as with any new bed - see this other page.

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
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Revision # 01
If plants have previously been grown on the bed, the preparation required is
much less as the soil will have been broken up and most stones removed.

The biggest challenge to any gardener is to decide when the soil is suitable for
working - not too dry and not too wet. This depends to some extent on the
type of soil, a clay soil can turn from a sticky mass to hard as rock very
quickly. Choosing the right time is one of the hardest choices, especially for
new gardeners - it is largely a matter of experience with the particular soil
type in the garden.

Assuming the seed bed is established, the likelihood is that there will be some
seedlings in it when you come to prepare it for a new sowing, so any
preparation will just apply to the area you require and care must be taken to
avoid disturbing the existing seedlings. To prepare for a new sowing:

 Lightly fork over, or hoe, the top 5 to 7.5cm (2 to 3 inches) of the bed.
If the bed has not been used for some time, or the soil is very wet, it
may be necessary to leave the soil for a day or two to dry out.
 When the soil is dry enough for it to freely break up, rack the surface
back and forth to give a suitable tilth - some clods may need a hit with
the back of the rack or even breaking up by hand. Larger seeds
generally benefit for a rather coarse tilth while fine seeds need a fine
tilth.
 As you rack back and forth, remove any stones, weeds or other
vegetation. Keep racking to get the surface fairly level.

How to Make a Seedbed

A seedbed is a plot of garden set aside to grow vegetables seeds, which can
later be transplanted. It is the alternative to starting seeds in pots, and it is
best used when you can control the temperature, soil quality and water in the
bed. You can make a seedbed outside or in a greenhouse several months
before you want to plant your garden and flowerbeds.

Part 1 - Choosing a Location

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
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Revision # 01
 1. Get to know your
climate. If you have a short
vegetable growing season,
you should make your
seedbed inside a
greenhouse. You may need
to bring in soil and compost
from outside into your
greenhouse.
2. Choose a location with
plenty of light. Seeds
require plenty of light, so the seedbed should be placed in an area
with the most consistent light and the fewest shadows.
3. Pick an area that you can
protect from wind, foraging
animals and flooding. If these
are big risks in your yard,
consider purchasing or
making a small plastic hoop
house in which the seeds can
be protected.
4. Don’t choose a plot where
you grew tubers or had a
heavy weed problem. The
tuber roots and the weeds can crowd out the seedlings.

Part 2 - Creating a Fine Soil

1. Prepare the base soil for your

seedbed. Break up the soil with a
rake. Allow sticky, soaked soil to
dry out before.

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
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2. Amend your soil. Add
compost, if it is sandy or it has
low nutrient value. Add store-
bought sandy soil if there is so
much organic matter in your
soil that it sticks together.
 Aim for a consistency of
breadcrumbs in your
final soil mix
3. Clean up the soil before you
place it in your seedbed. Pick
out weeds and debris. Pace the
soil mix in a garden sieve with
one-quarter inch (0.6cm) holes
through which you can shake
the soil.
4. Transport enough soil to fill 8
to 12 inches of soil to your
seedbed location. Spread it
onto the area until it is level.
Use the back of a garden rake to
level and pat it down lightly.
5. Water the soil to make it
firm. Try sprinkling it first to
break the surface tension.
Then, water more deeply.

6. Cover the soil with a plastic

sheet and leave it for 10
days. Flies are attracted to
fresh soil and they will
disappear during this time.
Weed the area if weeds
germinate during this process.
 The plastic sheet will serve to
warm up the soil for better
germination.

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01
Prepare a slug trap by burying a
small yogurt container so that the
lip is flush with the soil level. Fill
with beer. Slugs will be attracted to
the yeast and will drown in the beer.[3]
 Check it regularly if you have
problems with slugs.

Part 3 - Planting Seedbeds

1. Create “drills” in the soil with

a hoe. These are small “v”
shaped lines in your seedbed,
which you can use to separate
seedlings.
 Using drills allows you to
recognize the plants amidst
weeds and other plants.

2. Water along the length of the

seedbed. Seeds need moist soil
to germinate..

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
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 3. Sprinkle seedlings just barely
into the soil along the
drill/row. Plant them according
to the seed package directions
for starting seeds.

4. Rake a thin layer of soil over

the “v” lines so that the level
of the soil is the same as the
rest of the garden. Pat it down
with the other side of your rake.

5. Label the row.

6. Thin the seedlings after they germinate and start to grow. This will
keep your seedbed from overcrowding before you transplant. Compost
the unwanted seedlings

Using a seed bed

Once the seed bed is ready, choose a day when the soil is moist and little wind
to plant your seeds.

Normally a 'drill' (or number of drills) is created on the surface of the seed bed
- a drill is a shallow depression into the bottom of which seeds are sown. The
drill can be formed either by pulling a hoe or a gardening trowel (backwards)
through the surface of the prepared bed with the earth pulled to the sides, the
depth required varies from seed to seedt. A line stretched above the soil before
drills are made will help keep them straight.

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01
The way the seeds are sown along the bottom of the drills will depend upon
the seed been planted, typically one of three variations will be specified:

 Very thinly - say 2.5cm (1 inch) between seeds.

 Thinly - say 1.2cm (½ inch) between seeds.
 At stations - a number of seeds together at given spacing.

Check on the seed packet (or look here) to determine the appropriate spacing
for particular vegetables. Using more seeds than necessary will just waste
seeds and cause extra thinning later on.

Once the seeds have been sown, they are normally covered by pulling the back
of a rack or hoe over the surface of the bed to fill the drills.

Identify the drill and the seeds sown by putting in a short stick at each end
of each drill and attaching a waterproof label with the name of the plant
marked on it.

Stretching a line between the end sticks above each drill will help keep birds
off the seeds and young seedlings.

Watch out for other pests - for example slugs; young plants are tender and
will provide a good meal for a number of pests.

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01
Self-Check 2.1-3:
True or False
Write TRUE if the statement is correct and False if it is incorrect. Wirte
in a separate sheet of paper.

1. A seed bed may be thought of, incorrectly, as a rather unimportant

part of the garden which can be tucked away in some corner.
2. Seed Bed be remembered that seed germination and early growth of
any plant has an important influence on the final quality of the plant
3. if the seed bed is shaded by hedges or buildings, the seedlings may
grow strong.
4. Drainage of the bed is important, seeds generally do well if they
become waterlogged
5. Once the seeds have been sown, they are normally covered by pulling
the back of a rack or hoe over the surface of the bed to fill the drills.

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01
Answers Key 2.1-3

1. True
2. True
3. False
4. False
5. True

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01
 Job Sheet 2.1-3
Title: Prepare Seed Bed

Performance Objective:
Given the materials you are ask to prepare seed bed within 4 hours.

Supplies/materials:
 Greenhouse
 Hoop house
 Plastic sheet
 Garden soil
 Compost
 Garden sieve
 Sandy soil
 Rake
 Hoe
 Water
 Yogurt container
 Beer
 Seeds
 Labels

Steps/Procedure:

Choosing a Location

1. Get to know your climate

2. Choose a location with plenty of light.
3. Pick an area that you can protect from wind, foraging animals and
flooding.
4. Don’t choose a plot where you grew tubers or had a heavy weed
problem.

Creating a Fine Soil

1. Prepare the base soil for your seedbed.

2. Amend your soil.
3. Clean up the soil before you place it in your seedbed.
4. Transport enough soil to fill 8 to 12 inches of soil to your seedbed
location.

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01
 5. Water the soil to make it firm.
6. Cover the soil with a plastic sheet and leave it for 10 days.
7. Prepare a slug trap by burying a small yogurt container so that the lip
is flush with the soil level.

Planting Seedbeds

1. Create “drills” in the soil with a hoe.

2. Water along the length of the seedbed.

3. Sprinkle seedlings just barely into the soil along the drill/row.
4. Rake a thin layer of soil over the “v” lines so that the level of the soil is
the same as the rest of the garden.
5. Label the row.
6. Thin the seedlings after they germinate and start to grow.

Assessment Method:

Use the performance criteria checklist

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
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Production NCII
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Revision # 01
Performance Criteria Checklist for Job Sheet 2.1-3
Did I. . . YES NO
1. Get to know your climate

2. Choose a location with plenty of light.

3. Pick an area that you can protect from wind, foraging

animals and flooding.

4. Don’t choose a plot where you grew tubers or had a

heavy weed problem.

5. Prepare the base soil for your seedbed.

6. Amend your soil.

7. Clean up the soil before you place it in your seedbed.

8. Transport enough soil to fill 8 to 12 inches of soil to your

seedbed location.

9. Water the soil to make it firm.

10. Cover the soil with a plastic sheet and leave it for 10
days.
11. Prepare a slug trap by burying a small yogurt container
so that the lip is flush with the soil level.
12. Create “drills” in the soil with a hoe.

13. Water along the length of the seedbed.

14. Sprinkle seedlings just barely into the soil along the
drill/row.

15. Rake a thin layer of soil over the “v” lines so that the level
of the soil is the same as the rest of the garden.

16. Label the row.

17. Thin the seedlings after they germinate and start to

grow.

Document No. AGR611306

Date Developed:
Organic Agriculture Issued by:
Production NCII
Developed by: Page

Revision # 01