Installation and Troubleshooting Guide

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CDI P/N: 173-4849

This stator replaces P/N: 584849.

WARNING! This product is designed to be installed by a professional marine mechanic. CDI Electronics cannot be held
liable for injury or damage resulting from improper installation, abuse, neglect or misuse of this product.
SERVICE NOTE: Discoloration of all the battery windings is an indication of a problem in the rectifier/regulator. Discoloration of only
one post of the battery windings indicates a problem in the stator.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the regulator/rectifier, power pack and timing covers.
3. Disconnect the timing sensor.
4. Disconnect the stator leads from the power pack and regulator/rectifier.
5. Carefully disconnect and remove the throttle linkage connected to the flywheel cover.
6. Remove the flywheel cover. Watch for the bendix washers and do not lose them.
7. Unbolt the flywheel.
8. Using the correct flywheel puller, remove the flywheel.
9. Disconnect the original stator plug from the power pack.
10. Remove the original stator, saving the original bolts.
11. Install the new stator using the original bolts with a good thread-locker applied (CDI 989-3977 is recommended) to the bolts and
tightened to the factory torque specifications.
12. Connect the new stator to the power pack.
13. Connect the new stator to the regulator/rectifier (ignore any stripes on the rectifier as the new stator does not require the Yellow
wires to be connected to a particular rectifier wire).
14. Replace the flywheel according to the service manual, using new bolts in the hub.
15. Replace the flywheel cover. Be sure the bendix washers are in place and that the bendix does not need lubricating.
16. Carefully connect the throttle linkage connected to the flywheel cover.
17. Connect the timing sensor.
18. Verify the ignition timing and reset according to the service manual.
19. Replace the battery cable.

TROUBLESHOOTING
NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wire AT THE POWER PACK and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a
fault. Check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine sparks, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. This can be caused
by a weak battery, dragging starter, bad battery cables or a mechanical problem inside the engine.
4. Verify the engine is turning in a clockwise direction. If not, see TRIES TO RUN BACKWARDS below.
5. Check the power pack and ignition coil ground wires for corrosion and tightness.
6. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders.
7. Disconnect the boat side harness and connect a remote starter unit. Check for spark. If the engine has spark, check the boat side
harness’s Black/Yellow wire for shorts to ground.
8. Disconnect the Port 4 pin connector (with the Yellow/Red, Black/Yellow, Tan and White/Black wires) from the power pack and see
if spark returns. If it does spark, check resistance to see if the Black/Yellow wire is shorted to engine ground.
9. If it loses spark after the key switch is disengaged, check the DVA voltage on the stator’s power coil (Orange to Orange/Black) as
given below in Step #13. Either the power coil or power pack is the fault.
10. Check the battery voltage on the Yellow/Red wire while cranking the engine. If below 11 VDC, charge the battery and check all
battery cables. A continued low battery reading could be from a dragging starter. If still below 11 VDC, disconnect the power pack’s
Yellow/Red wire from the starter solenoid and apply a verified 12 + VDC to the Yellow/Red wire. If the engine now runs good,
check the DVA voltage on the stator’s power coil (Orange to Orange/Black) as given below in Step #13. Either the power coil or
power pack is the fault.
11. Remove the sensor wheel and check for damage, especially where the top slots are located. Sometimes the wheels will break out
where the windows overlap.

CDI Electronics • 353 James Record Road SW • Huntsville, AL 35824

Web Support: www.cdielectronics.com • Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 • Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited.

Rev A • 1/20/14 Page - 1 of 4 QF-319

 Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited.

The thin area between the crank position and the cylinder position is the most common breakout location.
12. Check the sensor eyes for dirt, grease, etc. If you have to clean it, use denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. Do not use any other
cleaning agent because damage to the optical lens will occur.
13. Check the stator resistance and DVA voltage as given below:
WIRE READ TO RESISTANCE DVA (Connected) DVA (Disconnected)
Brown Brown/ White (Brown/Yellow) 900-1200 150-400 V 150-400 V (*)
Orange Orange/Black 50-60 11-22 V 45-120 V (*)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a stator or pack has a problem. For instance, if you have no spark on any cylinder and
the stator’s DVA reading is out of spec – disconnect the stator wires and recheck the DVA output. If the reading is still out of spec –
the stator is bad. If the reading is now within spec – the pack is bad.
(NOTE) Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that require checking.
(SERVICE NOTE) It is recommended that liquid neoprene be applied to the areas where piercing probes were used.
14. Check the DVA output from the power pack to the primary coil wires as follows:
WIRE READ TO DVA (Connected)
Orange/Blue Engine Ground 150 V +
Orange/Green Engine Ground 150 V +
(NOTE) If the DVA values are below these specifications, the power pack or sensor is likely bad.
15. Check the sensor DC voltage as follows:
WIRE READ TO DC voltage (Connected)
Orange/Red Engine Ground 10.5-12 VDC
Black/Orange Engine Ground 8-10 VDC
(WARNING!!) The Black/Orange wire should NEVER be shorted to engine ground as this will damage the sensor.
16. Check the center hub triggering magnet in the flywheel. A loose magnet can cause this problem.
17. Check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken and loose magnets.

ONLY HAS FIRE AS LONG AS THE KEY SWITCH IS ENGAGED OR WILL NOT REV ABOVE IDLE SPEED:
Check the DVA voltage on the stator’s power coil (Orange to Orange/Black) as given above in Step #13:
(NOTE) The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 22 volts DVA (voltage exceeding 22
V DVA indicates a bad power pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator
winding. A sharp drop in voltage when you disengage the key switch indicates a bad power coil on the stator.
ENGINE TRIES TO RUN BACKWARDS:
1. Check the encoder wheel. It must have 5 notches.
2. Check the timing. Before Quick-Start, it should be set to 4° BTDC. After Quick-Start, it should be set to 6° ATDC.
3. Try another sensor.
4. Replace the power pack.
NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT FIRE ON ONE BANK:
1. Check the stator resistance and DVA output (see Step #13 on NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER above). If the power pack has no fire
on one bank and the readings are good, replace the power pack.
2. Disconnect the 4-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the fire returns. If it does, check resistance to see if
the Black/Yellow wire is shorted to engine ground or is intermittently shorting to ground.

CDI Electronics • 353 James Record Road SW • Huntsville, AL 35824

Web Support: www.cdielectronics.com • Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 • Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited.

Rev A • 1/20/14 Page - 2 of 4 QF-319

 Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
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Port 4 Pin Connector Starboard 4 Pin Connector

a) Black/Yellow a) Brown
b) Tan b) Orange/Black
c) White/Black c) Orange
d) Yellow/Red d) Brown/Yellow
POWER PACK REPEATEDLY BLOWS ON SAME CYLINDER:
Replace the ignition coil on the cylinder dropping spark.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:

Disconnect the stop wire at the power pack. Connect a jumper wire to the stop wire from the pack and short it to engine ground. If this
stops the pack from sparking, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness and shift switch. If this does not stop the pack
from sparking, replace the power pack.

ONLY FIRES #1 CYLINDER:

1. Verify the engine is spinning in a clockwise direction.
2. Check the optical sensor to encoder wheel mesh. You may need to shim the optical sensor upwards 0.020” to 0.0285” to make it
engage the encoder wheel.

HIGH SPEED MIS-FIRE OR WEAK HOLE SHOT:

1. Connect DVA meter to between the brown wires and do a running test. AT NO TIME SHOULD THE VOLTAGE EXCEED 400v. If it
does, the regulator circuit in the power pack is bad. The voltage should show a smooth climb and stabilize, gradually falling off at
high RPM (above 5000). If you see a sudden drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent, the problem is likely in the
stator.
2. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the miss clears, replace the rectifier.
3. In the water or on a Dynameters, check the DVA output on the Orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition
coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V DVA or more, increasing with engine RPM until it reaches 300-400V DVA
maximum. A sharp drop in DVA right before the miss becomes apparent on all cylinders will normally be caused by a bad stator. A
sharp drop in DVA on less than all cylinders will normally be the power pack.
4. If the engine runs fine until you get above 4900 RPM and then starts missing, check the Orange to Orange/Black power coil wires
with an oscilloscope (if available) or replace the pack. A breakdown inside the pack could cause RFI noise to activate the rev limiter
for no apparent reason.
5. Connect an inductive tachometer to the spark plug wires one at a time and compare the readings. If most of the cylinders show the
same reading and one or two show different readings, check the primary wires with the inductive pickup to see if the readings are
the same from the power pack. A difference in readings between the primary and secondary coil wires usually indicates a bad coil
or bad ignition wires. No difference indicates a bad power pack.
6. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed
when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
7. Check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken and loose magnets.
8. Rotate the stator one bolt hole in either direction and retest.

ENGINE WILL NOT REV ABOVE 2500 RPM AND SHAKES HARD (SLOW ACTIVATED):
1. Verify the engine is not actually over-heating by using a digital pyrometer.

CDI Electronics • 353 James Record Road SW • Huntsville, AL 35824

Web Support: www.cdielectronics.com • Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 • Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited.

Rev A • 1/20/14 Page - 3 of 4 QF-319

 Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited.

2. Check the routing of the tan temperature wires, an example of a bad location is shown below. The tan wires have to be located as
far away as possible from the spark plug wires.

Unacceptable routing for the temp wire (V6 engine shown)

3. Verify the engine is not overheating and disconnect the Tan temperature sensor wire. If the engine performs normally, check both
temperature sensors and replace the defective one.
4. If there is not any indication of a problem at this point, replace the power pack.

ENGINE STAYS IN QUICK-START:

1. Check the Yellow/Red wire for DC volts while the engine is running. You should only see voltage on this wire while the starter
solenoid is engaged. A DC voltage of 5-7 volts will not engage the starter solenoid, but will engage Quick-Start. Check the starter
solenoid, harness and ignition switch.
2. Short the White/Black temperature switch wire FROM the power pack to engine ground. Start the engine, if the Quick-Start drops
out after approximately 5 seconds, replace the White/Black temperature switch.
3. Disconnect the Black/White wire from the power pack. If the Quick-Start feature is not now working, replace the power pack.

ENGINE DIES WHEN QUICK-START DROPS OUT:

Check ignition timing at idle with the White/Black temperature wire disconnected. Remember to allow for the drop in ignition timing
when Quick-Start disengages. Verify ignition timing after engine has warmed up, according to the service manual.

QUICKSTART DOES NOT WORK:

1. Check the stator resistance and DVA voltage as given below:
WIRE READ TO RESISTANCE DVA (Connected) DVA (Disconnected)
Brown Brown/ White (Brown/Yellow) 900-1200 150-400 V 150-400 V
Orange Orange/Black 50-60 11-22 V 45-120 V
2. Check DVA voltage from the Orange to the Orange/Black wires while connected to the power pack. The reading should be
between 8 and 24V. A reading above 24V indicates a problem in the power pack while a reading below 8 volts usually indicates a
problem in the stator.

CDI Electronics • 353 James Record Road SW • Huntsville, AL 35824

Web Support: www.cdielectronics.com • Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 • Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited.

Rev A • 1/20/14 Page - 4 of 4 QF-319