Ancient Iran PDF
Ancient Iran PDF
Ancient Iran PDF
K. E. Eduljee
© K. E. Eduljee
No part of this book may be reproduced in any other form
without permission from the author,
except for the quotation of brief passages in citation.
GLOSSARY .................................................................................................................................... vi
IS THE TERM ‘ZOROASTRIAN’ ZOROASTRIAN? .................................................................... 1
THE MAGI ....................................................................................................................................... 2
PART I RESEARCH & DISCUSSION........................................................................................ 3
1. WAS ZARATHUSHTRA A VEGETARIAN? ...................................................................................... 3
A. Zarathushtra’s Diet of Cheese ............................................................................................. 3
(i) Cheese, No Meat, Moderation, Self-Control & Shunning Gluttony ........................................ 3
B. Zarem Raoghna – Soul Food ............................................................................................... 4
C. Mid-Spring Milk, Clarified Butter & Cheese....................................................................... 4
D. Cheese & Herbs – an Ancient Tradition Survives ............................................................... 5
(i) Unleavened Bread from Barley ............................................................................................... 6
E. Sustenance in Winter ........................................................................................................... 6
(i) Gahanbars & Jashns – Mutual Help and Caring ...................................................................... 7
F. Zarathushtra’s Gathas ......................................................................................................... 9
(i) King Jamsheed as the Originator of the Sin of Meat Eating .................................................... 9
(ii) Lament of Geush Urvan & Animals ....................................................................................... 9
(iii) Tradition of Aryan/Iranian Poets & Gathic Poetry .............................................................. 10
(iv) Allegory in the Geush Urvan Gatha..................................................................................... 10
(v) Geush & Gospand................................................................................................................. 11
(vi) Soul of Animals................................................................................................................... 11
2. ANCIENT ARYANS WERE GATHERERS. BUT WERE THEY HUNTERS?.........................................12
A. Legends Preserved in Ferdowsi’s Shahnameh....................................................................12
(i) Aryan Stone Age – Age of Gaya Maretan & Gathering Foods.............................................. 12
(ii) Aryan Metal Age – Age of Hushang & Agriculture ............................................................. 12
(iii) Seduction of Zahhak by Ahriman’s Cooking ...................................................................... 14
3. INTRODUCTION OF MEAT EATING AFTER THE ARAB CONQUEST .................................................16
4. STAGES OF CONSUMPTION AT THE BEGINNING & END OF HUMAN HISTORY ...............................17
5. ACHAEMENID ERA PRACTICES OF THE MAGI .............................................................................17
A. Different Norms for Different Orders of the Magi ..............................................................17
B. Changing Mores .................................................................................................................18
6. CALL TO BE VEGETARIANS IN SASANIAN ERA MEDIEVAL ZOROASTRIAN TEXTS ........................18
A. Sasanian Head Priest Adarbad Mahraspandan..................................................................18
B. Hudinan Peshobay Head Priest Adarbad Emedan .............................................................19
(i) Beneficent Vegetarian Animals & Nature’s Bounty.............................................................. 19
7. MODERN NORMS .......................................................................................................................19
A. Shift in Norms .....................................................................................................................20
8. PRINCIPLE OF MODERATION ......................................................................................................20
9. PRINCIPLES OF CIRCUMSPECTION, RIGHTNESS & BENEFICENCE .................................................20
PART II REFERENCES ..............................................................................................................21
1. ZOROASTRIAN SCRIPTURES & TEXTS .........................................................................................21
2. OTHER SCRIPTURES & RELIGIOUS TEXTS ..................................................................................21
3. CLASSICAL & MEDIEVAL TEXTS................................................................................................22
4. SCHOLARLY TEXTS ...................................................................................................................22
5. HEALTH & COOKING REFERENCES ............................................................................................24
6. ZOROASTRIAN HERITAGE WEBPAGE REFERENCES .....................................................................25
A. General Pages ....................................................................................................................25
B. Health & Healing Pages.....................................................................................................25
PART III APPENDICES..............................................................................................................26
1. PANEER & ROGHAN IN ARYANA’S HISTORY & TRADITIONS.......................................................26
A. Saka & Butter .....................................................................................................................26
B. Traditional Iranian & Afghan Milk Processing ..................................................................27
C. Clarified Butter as Payment in Medieval Iran....................................................................27
D. Milk Products in Kafiristan ................................................................................................27
E. Ghee in Hindu Tradition.....................................................................................................29
(i) Ghee in the Panchamritha Foods of Immortality .................................................................. 29
(ii) Ghee in the Homa Ceremony ............................................................................................... 29
(iii) Ghee in Ayurvedic Healing ................................................................................................. 29
2. MILK’S COMPOSITION ...............................................................................................................30
A. Milk – a Food Designed by Nature .....................................................................................30
B. Milk Vitamins......................................................................................................................30
C. Milk Minerals .....................................................................................................................30
D. Milk Proteins ......................................................................................................................31
(i) Make-up of Proteins. Amino Acids ....................................................................................... 31
(ii) Essential Amino Acids. Milk has all Nine............................................................................ 31
(iii) Digestion of Proteins ........................................................................................................... 31
(iv) Solubility of Proteins ........................................................................................................... 32
(v) Classification of Milk Proteins ............................................................................................. 32
(a) Caseins...........................................................................................................................................32
(b) Whey proteins ...............................................................................................................................32
(c) Enzymes ........................................................................................................................................32
E. Milk Fats.............................................................................................................................33
(i) Composition of Milk Fats...................................................................................................... 33
(ii) Fat Digestion ........................................................................................................................ 33
iii) Fats’ Ability or Inability to Mix with Water ......................................................................... 34
3. CREAM, CHEESE & CLARIFIED BUTTER .....................................................................................35
A. Cream .................................................................................................................................35
B. Cheese – Paneer/Panir .......................................................................................................35
(i) Making Paneer. Curds........................................................................................................... 35
(ii) Rennet/Rennin...................................................................................................................... 35
(iii) Whey ................................................................................................................................... 36
(iv) Using Cream, Yogurt, Whole or Skimmed Milk ................................................................. 36
(v) Straining ............................................................................................................................... 36
(vi) Squeezing out the Water...................................................................................................... 37
(vii) Topli nu Paneer .................................................................................................................. 37
(viii) Lactose in Cheese.............................................................................................................. 37
(ix) Salt in Cheese ...................................................................................................................... 37
(x) Plain Paneer ......................................................................................................................... 38
C. Butter & Buttermilk ............................................................................................................38
D. Clarified Butter – Roghan ..................................................................................................38
(i) Healing Properties of Clarified Butter ................................................................................... 39
E. Clarified Butter – Ghee.......................................................................................................39
4. HEALTH RISKS & BENEFITS .......................................................................................................40
A. Milk Fats. Fact & Myth. Risks & Benefits ..........................................................................40
(i) Fat Facts ................................................................................................................................ 40
(ii) Harvard & National Inst. for Health. Study on Fats’ Risks .................................................. 40
(iii) Benefits of Fats with Butyric Acid Residues....................................................................... 41
B. Cheese/Paneer. Risks & Benefits ........................................................................................42
(i) Risks...................................................................................................................................... 42
(ii) Benefits ................................................................................................................................ 43
(a) Study: No Rise in LDL .................................................................................................................43
(b) Nutrient Content & Benefits .........................................................................................................43
(c) Dental Health.................................................................................................................................44
(d) Appetite Suppression. Help to Avoid Overeating? ......................................................................44
(e) Cheese Improves Sleep & Reduces Stress....................................................................................44
C. Mediterranean Diet & Cheese ............................................................................................44
()
TIPS USING ADOBE READER
Using Read Mode
Using the Drop Down Menu Using Keys (PC)
Task
& Mouse Press
Start Read Mode View > Read Mode Ctrl and H
Change pages Mouse over center-bottom of PgDn
screen to reveal control bar PgUp
Change and zoom pages Mouse over center-bottom of Enlarge: Ctrl and +
screen to reveal control bar Shrink: Ctrl and -
Go to first page Ctrl and Home
Go to last page Ctrl and End
Exit Read Mode View > Read Mode Esc
()
GLOSSARY
Achaemenian - See Achaemenid.
atash - Fire.
Hapta-Hindu - The land of the seven Indus rivers in the Avesta, i.e.
today’s Northern Pakistan and Punjab (from Panj-ab,
meaning the five rivers – the five eastern Indus
tributaries).
Khoda, Khodai - Common Aryan word for God (see Ahura Mazda)
derived from an attribute of God, Khvada/khvadai (cf.
khvadata, self-governed, sovereign or lord). The word
has been used in the past to also mean a temporal
lord. Sasanian King Shapur I’s (who reigned from 241
to 272 CE) inscription at Naqsh-e Rustam states in
Parthian, “Aryan-khshatra khvatwy khvyem,” in
Aryan lands.
corruption Zoroaster.
()
The internal name: the Avesta calls the religion ‘Mazdayasna’ and
‘Mazdayasna Zarathushtrish’. Some modern writers use ‘Mazdean’.
PART I
RESEARCH & DISCUSSION
J. Bostock translates the last words in the passage as, “…that he was
insensible to the advances of old age.”
The Avestan Hadhokht Nask, which is concerned with the fate of the soul
after a person’s passing away, states, “Their food is the exalted zaremyehe
raoghnahe; for them who from youth are of good thoughts, of good words, of
good deeds, of good faith – (it is like) the food of the after life….” (KEE). The
Middle Persian text Dadistan-i Denig, which we cite further below, also notes
that zarem raoghna is the earthly representative of the soul’s heavenly food.
Cheese (paneer in Middle and New Persian) and clarified butter are made
from milk. All three play a significant role in Zoroastrian-Aryan tradition –
milk in health-giving and healing haoma extracts and cheese in diet. In turn,
zarem raoghna – clarified butter made in spring – is extolled as the best food
in the world, the earthly representative of soul food.
The Dadistan adds that the most efficacious of all dairy products is
maidyo-zarem roghan made from milk drawn in the second month
(Ardwahisht/Ardibehesht) of the year, i.e., when Mihr (the Sun) was in the
constellation Tora (Taurus) – a month scripturally designated as part of
1
See Appendix III.1.
2
See Appendix III.1.E.
3
See Appendix III.1.C.
2nd century CE Syrian author Lucian A sabzi khordan selection – tarragon, mint, radish and spring
of Samosata4 stated, “The Chaldean onions. Image credit: Nazderavian.
(Magi) are said to live to above a
hundred years in age. This is attributed in part to their custom of feeding on
barley bread, which they say sharpens the sight. By this kind of diet their
senses in general are said to be quicker and stronger than those of other
people.”
E. Sustenance in Winter
In those climate zones that did not permit year-round agriculture, plant
foodstuffs that lent themselves to drying and storing would have provided a
year-round source of food – plant foods such as dried grains, rice, beans,
lentils, herbs, fruits and nuts. When fresh herbs and vegetables were
unavailable to eat with barley bread and cheese, nuts such as walnuts may
have been eaten as substitutes.
4
Samosata stood on the east bank of the River Euphrates in what a region that is part
of modern-day Turkey.
The Iranian tradition of storing dried herbs, fruits and nuts is associated
with yet another noble tradition – that of sharing and ensuring those
unfortunate enough not to have a store of foods would not go hungry.
5
The poet Ferdowsi in his Shahnameh names Hushang’s grandfather Gaya
Maretan/Gayomard as the first king.
6
‘Baar’ means ‘fruit’ or ‘meevayh’, ‘produce’, ‘load’ and ‘tree output’.
F. Zarathushtra’s Gathas
(i) King Jamsheed as the Originator of the Sin of Meat Eating
Verse 32.8 of the Gathas, the hymns of Zarathushtra, starts with a
condemnation of legendary King Jamsheed – a great and noble king turned
sinner. Modern authors translate the remaining lines differently.
Avestan languages. ‘Geush’ has two primary meanings: the ‘kine’ (cattle) and
‘creation’ or ‘life’.
In his Essays on the Sacred Language, Writings, and Religion of the Parsis 19th
century Sanskrit scholar Martin Haug noted, “Geush Urva means the
universal soul of the earth, the cause of all life and growth. The literal
meaning of the term, ‘soul of the cow’ implies a simile; for the earth is
compared to a cow.” Gaus, notes Haug, conveys two meanings in Sanskrit,
‘cow’ and ‘earth’.
The master poet will ensure that the discovery of less apparent meanings
do not invalidate primary meaning(s). All meanings remain valid.
If the Gathas do indeed take a multiple meaning approach for even the
primary or apparent meaning(s), the Middle Persian Pahlavi translations of
this Gathic chapter explicitly decry the killing of beneficent animals as the
primary meaning. One Pahlavi translation of the chapter has Geush Urvan
saying, “The indiscriminate slaughter makes my life in all things hateful”.
The statement is followed by a plea for safe pastures for the gospand7,
beneficent animals.
7
This author proposes that Middle Persian ‘gospand’ is derived from the Avestan ‘gao-
spenta’ – ‘gao’ meaning ‘cow’, and ‘spenta’ meaning ‘beneficent’ in this context.
While in New Persian ‘gosfand’ means ‘sheep’, in the Middle Persian context of our
references, ‘gospand’ appears to mean all useful/beneficent animals that could be
domesticated as livestock – those that provided food as milk and cheese, fibre,
transportation, labour as beasts of burden and for tilling, threshing and other such
tasks. The category may have included fowl as well. [*The New Persian replacement
of ‘p’ with an ‘f’ in ‘gospand’ is likely part of the Arabization of the Persian language
as in the transformation of ‘Parsi’ to ‘Farsi’.]
Neriosangh Dhaval also translates ‘geush urvan’ as the ‘soul of the herds’ –
herds of all beneficent animals.
“(Know) this that we revere Geush Urvan and all our forms as
well as the souls of animals who are living as we are. They are to us
as we are to them.” (KEE)
The passage states that ‘we’, i.e. Zoroastrians, revere the souls of animals
in the same manner as we revere the souls of humans. These sentiments lead
us to the distinction between life forms that have a soul (perhaps sentient),
and organisms such as plants that are organic and living, but which do not
have a soul.
The further implication is that eating plants that do not have a soul is
acceptable while killing/eating beneficent animals that have a soul is
unacceptable to the tenants of the faith.
(i) Aryan Stone Age – Age of Gaya Maretan & Gathering Foods
The Shahnameh informs us that during the Aryan Stone Age – the Age
of Gaya Maretan (Gayomard, Kaiumars) – people sustained themselves
by gathering fruits and other plant foods. Later in the Stone Age, people
began to domesticate animals and the concept of domesticated livestock
– herds of beneficent animals – developed. Ferdowsi
8
Ferdowsi wrote the verses of the Shahnameh in New Persian when the language had
just evolved from Middle Persian – and was fast becoming contaminated with Arabic
words. Ferdowsi expunged as many Arabic words as possible in the New Persian
lexicon he employed.
9
Iblis, the Islamic word for the devil, is used in place of Ahriman in some Shahnameh
manuscripts.
The words above are fairly clear. Before Zahhak’s seduction by Ahriman,
people did not eat meat. In other words, they were vegetarian. The legend
does not end with that answer. When Ferdowsi’s legend made Ahriman the
initiator of eating slaughtered animal flesh, he could not have made his
point about the ethics of eating animal flesh for food more emphatically.
Since the practice of meat eating requires killing life, it is not hard to see
why he placed the practice under the domain of Ahriman, the lord of death,
the lord of not-life.
Further, once gripped by the taste of meat and blood, Zahhak became a
slave to Ahriman. Perhaps Ferdowsi was trying to say that meat eating is an
addiction to which people become enslaved.
This event will occur when a coming saviour will lead the world to an
ideal existence and death will be no more. It stands to reason that this
includes the death or killing of animals – possibly the Bundahishns’ answer to
the lament of Geush Urvan beseeching God for a saviour and safe pastures.
We note here that it was only the highest order of the Achaemenid
Porphyry
era Magi (say, the dasturs of today) who adhered to the ancient practice
of abstinence from killing animals or meat eating. Porphyry notes that while
the lower orders of the Magi hierarchy did eat meat they did not kill “tame”
animals, which we presume included domesticated, livestock or herd
animals i.e. the gospand. One scenario is that the higher orders of the Magi
maintained Zarathushtra’s exemplary lifestyle and dietary choices as part of
their strict code even when large segments of the population had become
meat eaters.
B. Changing Mores
Perhaps unaware of the finer distinctions that Porphyry would
note, 5th century BCE Greek author Herodotus generalized by stating
in his Histories that the Magi were required to pray over the cooked
flesh of an animal slaughtered by a member of the Persian laity.
10
Zoroastrian high priest (mobed-i mobedan/mobed of mobeds) and prime minister
during the reign of Sasanian King Shapur II (309-379 CE), Adarbad Mahraspandan is
said to have ‘purified’ the Avesta and fixed its number at 21 nasks (books), 21 being
the number of words in the Ahunavar prayer. Highly regarded and considered a saint,
he is likely the Adarbad Mehersafand mentioned in the Qissa-e Sanjan.
11
We are grateful to Zaneta Garratt for bringing this passage to our attention.
7. Modern Norms
Today, other than individuals or a group such as the Parsee Vegetarian &
Temperance Society, we have no consistent practice of community-wide
Zoroastrian vegetarianism. The Indian-Zoroastrian bastions of Irani-Parsi
food, the Irani cafés, are noticeably non-vegetarian. Nonetheless, this author
has heard Iranians state that according to tradition, consuming an excess of
red meat and fats results in evil thoughts and makes a person selfish.
12
The Hudinan Peshobay (meaning ‘leaders of the people of Good Religion’) were
th
leaders of the Zoroastrian community who from the 9 century CE were required by
the ruling Arabs to act as representatives for the entire (shrinking) Zoroastrian
community.
A. Shift in Norms
The records we have just
Where Aryan Vegetarianism
examined indicate that over the
millennia, there has been a
Survives
dramatic shift in Zoroastrian norms Aryan vegetarianism survives in some forms
on the issues of slaughtering of Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism. Buddhism
animals, cooking meat over an originated in the eastern Gangetic state of
open fire as in barbequing, and Magadha. Some scholars postulate that the
eating (dead) flesh. Magi, the Magha, established Magadha. Their
kings used the title ‘Arya’. The Indian Aryans as
Hopefully, one Zoroastrian well as the Bon who spread their faith from the
guiding principle that still survives Pamirs into Western Tibet, use the swastika
in practice (if at times neglected) is symbol – though that is another story.
the principle of moderation.
8. Principle of Moderation
The Zoroastrian guiding principle for many life-style choices (not moral
or ethical choices) is moderation between the extremes of too much and too
little. This guiding principle applies to food and drink as part of one’s life-
style choices.
()
PART II
REFERENCES
1. Zoroastrian Scriptures & Texts
Avesta – Transliterations to the Roman script by this author based on
transliterations by I. J. S. Taraporewala (citing Christian Bartholomae), T. R.
Sethna, K. F. Geldner, H. Humbach, P. Ichaporia, M. C. Monna.
Transliterations to the Devanagari script by J. M. Chatterji13. Translations to
English by I. J. S. Taraporewala, T. R. Sethna, F. Rustamji, M. F. Kanga, J. M.
Chatterji, J. Darmesteter, C. Bartholomae, L. H. Mills, A. Jafarey, H.
Humbach, J. H. Moulton, M. C. Monna, K. E. Eduljee.
13
J. M. Chatterji’s The Hymns of Atharvan Zarathushtra (Calcutta, 1967).
14
Zand-Akasih – Iranian or Greater Bundahishn (Bombay, 1956).
15
Pahlavi Texts in Sacred Books of the East, Vol. V, F. Max Müller ed., (Oxford, 1880).
4. Scholarly Texts
Boyce, M. – A History of Zoroastrianism: Under the Achaemenians Vol. 2
(Leiden, 1982).
Haug, M. – Essays on the Sacred Language, Writings, and Religion of the Parsis
(London, 1878).
Various – ‘Low-Fat Diet Not a Cure-All’ and ‘Fats and Cholesterol: Out
with the Bad, In with the Good’ at Harvard School of Public Health (online,
c. 2012).
Zhang, Poplawski, Yen, Cheng, Bloss, Zhu, Patel, Mobbs – ‘Role of CBP
and SATB-1 in Aging, Dietary Restriction, and Insulin-Like Signalling’ at the
US National Library of Medicine, National Institutes of Health (online,
2009).
()
PART III
APPENDICES
1. Paneer & Roghan in Aryana’s History &
Traditions
A. Saka & Butter
The Saka were an Aryan group of whom the famed legendary heroes, the
pahlavans Rustam and Sohrab, were members and from whom the Parthians
had likely descended. During Achaemenid times, say 700 to 330 BCE, the
Saka lived around the Aral Sea and east of the Syr Darya (Jaxartes) River – the
Saka Para-Sugd meaning the ‘Saka beyond Sogdiana’ or alternatively Saka
Para-Darya meaning the ‘Saka beyond the River’ (Syr/Jaxartes). In the
Mahabharata, the Saka nation is mentioned together with several regional
nations including Chin (China). Saka lands extended up to the borders of
China.
Various Saka archaeological sites dating to between c.1000 BCE and 500
CE have been discovered east of the Caspian Sea up to the Tarim Basin and
Mongolia. One of these sites is located in the region the Saka Tigrakhauda
(who were also called Saka with the pointed hats) inhabited.
The site, which is currently located in south-eastern
Kazakhstan close to the ancient town of Issyk has yielded some
well preserved artifacts that include clothing and gold armour
that may have been worn by a prince or princess – and a very
tall pointed cap. The artifacts date to between the 4th and 3rd
centuries BCE.
the site date), the Issyk and Ukok artifacts are among the earliest physical
artifacts found that relate to butter or clarified butter.
note Elphinstone adds, “The clarified butter keeps long without spoiling.
The cream is either common cream, or a preparation called kymauk, which is
made from boiled milk, and is something like clouted cream.” He also writes
of butter being used as a balm for sore feet.
When Elphinstone wrote his account just under two hundred years ago,
there was a district in Afghanistan’s Hindu Kush Mountains just south of
Badakhshan – a district known to the Muslims as Kafiristan, the district of
the non-believers. The district is known today as Nuristan having ‘seen the
light’ by succumbing to the pressures of the hordes around them to abandon
their ancient faith. Elphinstone’s account of Kafirs (spelt ‘Caufirs’ by him) is
enlightening.
If time and
opportunity avail
themselves to this
author, Kafiristan is
worthy of a monograph
unto itself. For the time
being we will constrain
ourselves and limit our
observations to those of
Elphinstone’s passages
that relate to clarified
butter: “The houses of
the Caufirs are often of
wood, and they have Celebrating the Chilam Josh May mid-spring festival (cf. the Zoroastrian
generally cellars where Maidyozarem Gahanbar) in Kalash Kafiristan on the Pakistani side of the border.
Image credit: Pakimag.com
they keep their cheeses,
clarified butter, wine, and vinegar.” “Their food is chiefly cheese, butter, and
milk, with bread or a sort of suet pudding: they also eat flesh (which they
like half raw); and the fruits they have, walnuts, grapes, apples, almonds,
and a sort of indifferent apricot that grows wild. They wash their hands
before eating, and generally begin by some kind of grace. They all, of both
sexes, drink wine to great excess: they have three kinds, red, white, and dark-
coloured, besides a sort of the consistence of a jelly, and very strong. They
drink wine, both pure and diluted, out of large silver cups, which are the
most precious of their possessions. They drink during their meals, and are
elevated, but not made quarrelsome, by this indulgence. They are
exceedingly hospitable. The people of a village come out to meet a stranger,
take his baggage from those who are carrying it, and conduct him with
many welcomes into their village.”
2. Milk’s Composition
Milk is a mixture of proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals
in water.
B. Milk Vitamins
The vitamins in milk are of two types: water and oil soluble – all are
natural multivitamins in a natural state. Throw out milk’s watery part (whey)
and you throw out the water-soluble vitamins. Throw out the cream or
butter and you throw out the oil soluble vitamins.
C. Milk Minerals
The minerals in milk include calcium, magnesium, phosphorus,
potassium, selenium, and zinc together with small amounts of copper, iron,
manganese, and sodium. About half are bound within the protein casein.
The remaining minerals are dissolved in the milk’s water.
D. Milk Proteins
Proteins are an important part of or muscles, bones, hair and organs.
Most enzymes and many hormones are proteins. Besides water, proteins are
the largest components of human muscles, tissues and cells.
The human body does not use proteins in the original form we consume
them (as food). Most proteins are broken down to their components parts
during digestion. The components are then absorbed through the intestines
and transported to cells where they are used to build (synthesize) new
proteins needed by the human body. The newly made proteins are released
by the cells into the body fluids once the synthesis is complete.
(a) Caseins
Casein together with milk fats separate as solids called curds when an acid
or an enzyme called rennin/rennet is added to whole milk.
(c) Enzymes
Catalysts (change agents) either stimulate or quicken a chemical reaction.
Enzymes are catalysts for metabolism16 – a process by which the body breaks
down or builds up compounds. Most enzymes are proteins and can be
distinguished by the endings of their names.
Lipases are the main enzymes found in milk. They break down fats
(lipids). When milk is agitated, the lipases can come in contact with milk
fats causing them to degrade and making the milk rancid. This is particularly
noticed with homogenized milk where the fat globules have been reduced in
size to prevent them from rising to the top.
16
Metabolic processes range from the digestion of food to the synthesis of DNA.
The products of the enzyme breakdown of milk fats and proteins, though
pre-digested and useful to the body, either smell or taste bad outside the
digestive tract.
E. Milk Fats
(i) Composition of Milk Fats
On an average, 4% of milk consists of fat. Milk fat has one of the most
complex fatty acid compositions of all edible fats. Helena Månsson in her
paper ‘Fatty Acids in Bovine Milk Fat’ at the US National Library of Medicine
notes that while milk fat has over 400 individual fatty acids residues, 15 to
20 of fatty acid residues make up 90% of milk fat.
Månsson also notes that “the composition of fatty acid [residues] in milk
fat changes during a cow’s lactation cycle” and further, “Many factors are
associated with the variations in the amount and fatty acid composition of
bovine milk lipids… they may be feed-related factors, i.e. related to fiber and
energy intake, dietary fats, and seasonal and regional effects.” As such,
spring milk extolled in Zoroastrian literature likely has a different fat and
nutrition content to that of milk drawn at other times of the year. Given the
discovery of a multitude of remarkable health benefits associated with fats
containing butyric acid residues (see next section) this may be significant.
Fats are digested more slowly than proteins or carbohydrates. The slower
rate of digestion is nature’s way of maintaining an even amount of energy
availability. Fats are a vital medium to long-term energy source.
Once the fatty acids and monoglycerides pass through the wall of the
intestine, they are used to build a fresh set of triglyceride fats that are
delivered to the body’s cells where they are broken down once again before
being absorbed into the cell.
Raw milk is not a very stable emulsion. If milk is left standing still for
some time, the fat spheres begin to clump together and the fat – being
lighter than water – rises to the top of the milk as cream.
When milk’s proteins, fats, carbohydrates (also called sugars) and other
substances can no longer stay dispersed in milk’s water base, many milk
components separate as solids. In doing so, they form products like cream,
cheese and butter.
A. Cream
Cream contains fats (and some proteins) that are lighter than water. If
raw milk is left to stand in a refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours, a layer of cream
forms on the surface. The process can be accelerated by first boiling the milk
for 3-5 minutes. When the cream is removed, the remaining milk, called
skimmed milk, usually has only a small amount of fat left suspended in it.
B. Cheese – Paneer/Panir
Cheese consists of solidified milk components (mainly proteins and fats).
(ii) Rennet/Rennin
A stomach enzyme found in some Curds and whey. Image credit: Susan Waughtal.
young animals called rennet or
rennin also curdles milk (rennet can be extracted from plants as well). In the
making of topli nu paneer (Gujarati for basket paneer – see below), the lining
of chicken stomach (dry chicken gizzard) is added to the milk as a source of
rennet. Strict vegetarians may wish to use vegetable rennet.
The advantage of using rennet is that there is less residual taste of lemon
or vinegar in the cheese. We also read that using rennet results in a more
firm cheese.
(iii) Whey
Whey is the liquid that remains
after the curd has coagulated. It
consists of water and a few remaining
water-soluble milk components such
as milk carbohydrates (primarily
lactose) and some proteins. Whey has
its own nutrient value and is popular
with athletes.
(v) Straining
The curds are stained in a sieve or over folded cheesecloth. The curds left
in the sieve or cheesecloth are essentially cottage cheese. The making of
paneer requires some of the remaining water to be squeezed out leaving a
compact solid mass that can be cut with a knife.
17
Yogurt is made by bacteria fermenting milk lactose to produce lactic acid, which in
turn acts on milk protein to give yogurt its texture and characteristic tang.
Fresh ghee & butter on a banana leaf. Image credit: R. Shivaji Rao.
If during the making of clarified butter, the milk solids (proteins and
sugars?) are heated to the extent that they brown and caramelize before
being separated from the liquid fat, the clarified butter becomes ghee. The
caramelized solids impart a somewhat nutty flavour to the ghee (before they
are removed by straining while the ghee is a liquid).
The fats present in milk have a nutritional purpose. Yet there can be
harm when fats are consumed immoderately. Fats can make us look good or
ugly. They can help us survive or they can be the cause of heart diseases and
cancer leading to death. With a good understanding of the nature of fats, we
can make informed choices.
While we may think of fats as something to avoid in our diet or to get rid
of in our bodies, fats are one of the three main food groups we need to
survive and stay healthy. Humans, animals and plants all use fat as a fuel. In
plants, oils (fats) are mainly found in seeds where they provide energy until
the seedlings are capable of using solar energy. For us humans, fats supply
the energy our bodies need to function and to see us through times when
food supplies are unpredictable – even helping us survive for several weeks
without food, or at least until the next meal. In addition, fat has many other
functions. Milk fats are carriers of certain essential vitamins. When we
consume milk fats, we consume the associated vitamins as well.
(ii) Harvard & National Inst. for Health. Study on Fats’ Risks
One of the largest and most expense studies on whether normal fat
consumption had negative health consequences was funded by the National
Heart, Lung and Blood Institute of the National Institute for Health. A large
part of the research was conducted by Harvard University. The study cost
$415 million, likely over a billion dollars in today’s money.
The study concluded that there were no evident health benefits for about
20,000 women (including women from different ethnic groups) on a low-fat
diet. The study also found that these women had “virtually identical” heart,
stroke and cancer (breast and colorectal) disease rates as did the 30,000
women who were not on the diet. After eight years, the women on the low
fat/low calorie diet were also generally of the same weight as those women
who were not on the diet.
The Harvard School of Public Health reports, “It’s time to end the low-fat
myth. For decades, a low-fat diet was touted as a way to lose weight and
prevent or control heart disease and other chronic conditions, and food
companies re-engineered products to be reduced-fat or fat-free, often
compensating for differences in flavor and texture by increasing amounts of
salt, sugar, or refined grains. However, as a nation, following a low-fat diet
hasn’t helped us control weight or become healthier.” The myth
nevertheless persists.
The fats in milk are essential foods for human beings when consumed
temperately.
They aid colon health and are food for cells lining the colon without
which the cells can die;
Butyrates have for some time been used in psychiatry and neurology
as mood stabilizers and anti-epileptics;
(i) Risks
Consuming any food in excess may have health
risks especially when excessive consumption of high
calorie foods leads to obesity. Cheese is high in
calories.
Cheeses. Image credit: BerkeleyWellness.com.
BerkeleyWellness.com (University of California)
states, “…cheese is high in calories (about 100 per ounce, on average) and fat
(6 to 9 grams per ounce, most of which is saturated), and it often contains a
(ii) Benefits
(a) Study: No Rise in LDL
MensHealth.com: “Cheese is the new
wine.” “Danish scientists found that
when men ate 10 daily 1-ounce servings
of full-fat cheese for 3 weeks, their LDL
Image credit: BerkeleyWellness.com.
(bad) cholesterol didn’t change.”
amounts of] conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), a fat that may have anti-cancer,
weight-reducing, and heart-protective effects.”
Note daily cheese consumption vs. infrequent meat consumption. Image credit: Kopiaste.
Our main interest in the Mediterranean diet was to find out whether or
not diary products such as cheese resulted in all the problems speculated
upon in some North America health articles.
()