Competency Based Learning Materials
Competency Based Learning Materials
Competency Based Learning Materials
Sector:
DRIVING
AUTOMOTIVE AND LAND TRANSPORT DRIVING SECTOR
Qualification Title:
DRIVING NCII
Unit of Competency:
CARRY OUT MINOR VEHICLE MAINTENANCE AND
SERVICING
Module Title:
CARRYING OUT MINOR VEHICLE MAINTENANCE AND SERVICING
The unit of competency Carrying Out Minor Vehicle Maintaining and Servicing
contains knowledge, skills and attitudes for a Driving NC II qualification.
You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to complete each
of the learning outcomes of the module. In each learning outcome there are Information
Sheets, Task Sheets and Job Sheets. Follow these activities on your own and answer the self-
check at the end of each learning activity.
If you have questions, don’t hesitate to ask your facilitator for assistance.
Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)
You may already have some of the knowledge and skills covered in this module
because you have:
Been working for some time
Already have completed training in this area.
If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a particular skill or
skills, talk to him/her about having them formally recognized so you don’t have to do the
same training again. If you have a qualification or Certificate of Competency from previous
trainings show it to your trainer. If the skills you acquired are still current and relevant to this
module, they may become part of the evidence you can present for RPL. If you are not sure
about the currency of your skills, discuss it with your trainer.
After completing this module asks you’re your trainer to assess your competency.
Result of your assessment will record in your competency profile. All the learning activities are
designed for you to complete at your own pace.
Inside this module you will find the activities for you to complete followed by relevant
information sheets for each learning outcome. Each learning outcome may have than one
learning activity.
List of competency
No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code
1 Carry Out Minor Vehicle Carrying Out Minor Vehicle ALT723348
Maintenance and ServicingMaintaining and Servicing
2 Drive Light Vehicle Driving Light Vehicle ALT832302
3 Obey and Observe Traffic Obeying and Observing ALT832303
Rules and Regulations Traffic Rules and
Regulations
4 Implement and Coordinate Implementing and ALT832304
Accident-Emergency Coordinating Accident-
Procedures Emergency Procedures
MODULE CONTENT
MODULE DESCRIPTION: This module deals with carrying out minor vehicle maintenance and
servicing.
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:
1. Clean vehicle unit
2. Maintain and service the vehicle system
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Vehicle is cleaned as per prescribed procedures using appropriate cleaning supplies,
tools/equipment and according to occupational health and safety (OHS).
2. Minor routine repair and servicing are undertaken in accordance with manufacturer’s
specifications.
3. Brakes are inspected and appropriate action is undertaken in accordance with
manufacturer's specifications.
4. Complex repair and service requirements are identified and referred following workplace
procedures.
5. Records of routine servicing, maintenance and repairs are kept and updated in accordance
with workplace procedures.
LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 1
Clean vehicle unit
Contents:
1. Vehicle is cleaned as per prescribed procedures using appropriate cleaning supplies,
tools/equipment and according to occupational health and safety (OHS).
2. Wastes are disposed of as per relevant ordinance, rules or law.
Assessment Criteria:
1. Vehicle is cleaned as per prescribed.
2. Wastes are disposed of as per relevant ordinance.
Assessment Method:
1. Interview
2. Written examination
3. Practical demonstration
4. Direct observation
Information Sheet 1.1-1
Proper cleaning of vehicles
Learning Objectives:
To clean your car, you can either opt for a simple body and wheel clean, or you can
choose to clean both the interior and exterior of your car. Before you begin cleaning the
exterior, make sure the body of your car is cool and in the shade. Use specially formulated
cleaners to clean the body and wheels of your car. To clean the interior, remove the floor
mats and throw away trash. Vacuum the interior and use a foam cleanser to clean the
carpet and upholstery. Finish cleaning your car by using a window cleaner to clean the
inside and outside of your windows.
2. Gather your supplies. Place two buckets, a car cleanser, a soft natural sponge or a
lamb’s wool wash mitt, a cloth/rag, tire cleaner, soft terry towels, and car wax next to
your car. These materials are needed to clean your car’s exterior.
Gather your supplies to clean the interior as well. These supplies may include a vacuum, trash
bag, glass cleaner, upholstery foam cleanser, carpet cleaner, Q-tips, paper towels, and rags.
3. Fill two buckets with water. One bucket will be used for soaking your cloth while the other
will be used for rinsing your cloth. Fill one of the buckets with the specially formulated car
cleanser per the instructions.[2]
Do not use dishwashing detergent or hand soap to clean your car. These harsh household
cleaners may strip off your car’s wax.
2. Clean from the top of your car down to the bottom. And work on one section at a time. Make sure
to completely rinse each section with water after you finish cleaning it with soap. This will prevent the
soap from drying onto your car.[4]
3. Lather the soap with your sponge or lambswool mitt. Then scrub your car in a straight up and down
motion. Do not clean the car in a circular motion. Scrubbing in a circular motion can cause swirl
marks.[5]
4. Rinse your sponge often. Rinse it in the second bucket that contains water after each use. If your
sponge falls onto the ground, make sure to rinse it in the water. If not, the debris on the sponge may
scratch your car.[6]
5. Do not let your car air dry. This can cause watermarks and streaking. Instead, use a soft-terry towel
or a chamois (synthetic or natural) to dry it. Try blotting the water instead of wiping it to dry your car
2. Soak a soft sponge in the cleaning solution. Once the sponge has soaked for a few
minutes, begin cleaning one wheel at a time from the top down. To clean small crevices,
use a soft-bristled toothbrush.[9]
If your wheels are very dirty, you may need to apply a de-greaser before cleaning them.
3. Rinse and dry the wheel. Once your wheel is clean, rinse it thoroughly with water until all
dirt and debris are removed. Then dry the wheel with a soft cloth.[10]
Repeat steps one through three for each wheel.
WAXING THE CAR
1. Cut a clay bar into three or four equal sections. Flatten one of the pieces so that three of
your fingers can hold it in place. Spray a fair amount of clay lube onto a small section of
the car (24" by 24"). Then, gently glide the clay over the lubricated section in a back and
forth motion (not a circular motion).[11]
Once the clay begins to glide smoothly over the section and you do not hear or feel a
roughness in the finish, move onto the next section.
Make sure to use the clean parts of the clay on the new sections as you work.
Clay bars are used to remove microscopic dirt from your car's body to prevent scratching
during the waxing process.
2. Squeeze a quarter-sized amount of polish onto your pad. Apply the wax in a straight up
and down motion onto the body of your car. Do not apply it in a circular motion, and do
not wax your windows or the trim. Use gentle pressure when applying the wax to get a
smooth, even coat.[12]
Make sure to apply thin layers of wax as opposed to thick layers. As a rule of thumb, it is
better to apply multiple thin layers than to apply one thick layer.
3. Use a microfiber-buffing towel to buff the wax. Move the towel in a straight up and down
motion as opposed to a circular motion. Use a high quality towel to prevent scratching.[13]
Before buffing the wax, you may need to let the wax dry. It depends on which formula you
are using. To be safe, follow the product’s instructions.
6. Spray a glass cleaner into the cup holders. Let the glass cleaner set for 5 to 10 minutes.
Then use a paper towel to clean out the dirt and grime. Use the BBQ skewer to pick out
grime and dirt from any small crevices.[16]
Alternatively, place an old sock on the bottom of a mug or travel cup. Then place the mug
in the cup holder and twist to remove dirt and grime.
7. Vacuum from the top down. Start at the top of the seats, dashboard, and console before
moving to the floor. Use the upholstery nozzle to vacuum the seats, upholstered areas, and
the headliner. Use the brush attachment to vacuum the components that contain hard
vinyl, plastic, and metal such as the dashboard and console. To clean small crevices and
tight areas, use the crevice attachment.[17]
Adjust the seats backwards and forwards to clean hard to reach spots under the seats.
8. Use a carpet cleaner to clean carpet stains. Spray the cleaner onto the stain and use a stiff
bristle brush to rub it into the carpet. Be careful not to spray too much cleaner onto the
carpet as this can cause mildew if it is not dried thoroughly.[18]
Use a clean, dry towel to blot the stains and dry the area.
9. Spray a foam cleanser onto fabric stains. Rub the cleanser into the stain with a soft brush.
Let the cleanser dry. Then use a vacuum to remove it per the instructions. If the stain
remains, then spray more cleanser onto the affected area and clean again until it is
gone.[19]
If your seats are leather, then make sure to use a leather cleanser or saddle soap to
clean your seats, as well as other components of the car that contain leather.
10. Use car wipes to sanitize the dashboard and console. Make sure to use specially
formulated car wipes. You can find these at your local auto shop. Use Q-tips or cotton
swabs to clean small areas like radio buttons, air vents, and panel seams.[20]
If you do not have car wipes, then an all-purpose household cleaner that is ammonia-
free will do.
11. Clean the windows with a glass cleaner. Any household glass cleaner will do. Instead of
spraying the cleaner directly onto the window, spray it onto a clean, microfiber towel.
Then wipe both the inside and outside of your windows in a straight up and down
motion.[21]
Roll down your windows to thoroughly clean the top section of the window.
12. Re-vacuum the car. This will remove any dirt and grime that was knocked out during the
cleaning process. Then shake and vacuum the floor mats thoroughly if you have not
already done so. Place them inside your car.[22]
Use an odor-removal spray, like Febreeze, to remove any remaining smells from your
car.
Information Sheet 1.1-2
PROPER WASTE DISPOSAL
Learning Objectives:
2. Antifreeze
We used to drain old coolant into a pan and use it for weed control around the
garage. Or, we poured it into the sink--then flushed the radiator with water from
the garden hose. Most of the heavy-metal-laden spillage went into the driveway,
and thence into the gutter and storm drains. A commercial shop can't do this
anymore, by law, and neither should you. Drain the radiator into a pan, with as
little spillage as possible. Fill the system with water and run it until the engine warms
up enough to open the thermostat, and then for a few minutes longer to mix
thoroughly. Drain, fill and drain again. This double flush will purge 99 percent of the
old coolant. Now you can refill with the correct amount of fresh coolant and top
off with water.
5. Batteries
The toxic lead in car batteries can contaminate groundwater. Fortunately,
batteries are recyclable. Both the sulfuric acid and the lead plates are reusable
with only a modest amount of processing. In most states, when you buy a new
battery, the vendor will charge you a small fee that's refunded when you return
your old battery. And most of these shops will take in old batteries. Call. If not, the
city or county will have a place to drop them off, so there's no need to dispose of
them illegally.
6. Tires
Who wants a stack of old tires breeding mosquitoes in the neighbourhood? Some
areas recycle tires by using them as supplementary fuel in cement kilns. The very
high temperatures required to drive the water out of limestone and transform it
into Portland cement also ensure the complete combustion of the rubber and
fabric in tires. A side benefit is the molten steel that collects in the bottom of the
firebox. Most shops that sell tires have a way to dispose of old tires, although they
may charge a modest fee. Some municipalities will take a few tires from a
homeowner, either on regular trash day or at a special time or place.
Instruction: answer this self-check with your best and ability. This is to check your
understanding of what you’ve read from the information sheet above. Answer it using the
space provided below. Try to answer the questions without looking at the answer key below.
After answering, compare it with the answer key 1.1-1.
Cleaning supplies:
1. Soap
2. Shampoo
3. Rags
4. Oil
5. Air freshener
6. Polish
7. Water
Contents:
1. Minor routine checks are undertaken based on manufacturer’s manual.
2. Minor routine repair and servicing are undertaken in accordance with manufacturer’s
specifications.
3. Complex repair and service requirements are identified and referred following workplace
procedures.
4. Records of routine servicing, maintenance and repairs are kept and updated in accordance
with workplace procedures.
Assessment Criteria:
1. Minor routine checks are undertaken.
2. Minor routine repair and servicing are undertaken.
3. Complex repair and service requirements are identified and referred.
4. Records of routine servicing, maintenance and repairs are kept and updated.
Assessment Method:
Interview
Written examination
Practical demonstration
Direct observation
Information Sheet 2.1-1
Checking manufacturer’s manual
Learning Objectives:
Learning Objectives:
1. Minor routine repair and servicing are undertaken in accordance with manufacturer’s
specifications.
Car specifications
Body Styles
Sedans – the typical “family” car
Coupes – sportier 2 –door models
Hatchbacks – sedan with extra cargo space
Station Wagon – large hatchback
Van – higher station wagon
Light Truck – cab and bed
SUV – truck and sedan
Seats
How many adults can be accommodated.
Not always represented as comfortably accommodated. Often seeing “comfortable for short
journeys”
Trunk Space
Expressed in cubic feet, these numbers should be used for comparison. It’s difficult for the
average consumer to visualize 7 cubic feet.
Weight
Weight is of utmost importance in determining performance and fuel economy.
Lighter cars save on fuel.
Performance is judged by “power-to-weight ratio” More power with less weight transfers to
improved performance.
Wheelbase
The distance between the center of the front wheels and center of the back wheels, when
viewed from the side.
Longer wheelbase usually means a better ride
Engine Size
Number of cylinders 3,4,5,6,8,10
Described in CID – cubic inch displacement, or liter displacement
Size usually translates to power
Transmission
Typical – 4 speed automatic
5 and 6 speed automatics are currently on upper end vehicles
Sporty vehicles offer 4 or 5 speed manual transmissions
CVT (continuously-variable-transmission) Has no gears – belt driven – provides the best
performance and economy at all speeds
Brakes
Risk brakes – run cooler and provide better performance – more expensive.
Drum brakes – cheaper but not as efficient in performance.
ABS anti-lock brakes prevent brakes form “locking-up” causing a loss of vehicle control.
Airbags
Driver, passenger, and side impact airbags protect passengers in the event of a collision. T-
boning and rollover accidents have made side impact airbags almost standard today.
Airbags are only helpful if all passengers in the vehicle are wearing seatbelts.
Fuel Economy
Government EPA – Environmental Protection Agency estimates in perfect conditions. These
estimates should be used for comparison, but may not accurately reflect actual mileage
Warranty
Learning Objectives:
Learning Objectives:
1. Complex repair and service requirements are identified and referred following workplace
procedures.
Car maintenance and servicing basics to increase your vehicle’s longevity
When it comes to your vehicle, prevention is 1000 times better than cure. Basic upkeep
is cheaper than major repairs caused by neglect.
For some reason, lots of people neglect basic maintenance on their car. Their philosophy is
“Hey, it’s running, so what’s the problem?” The excuses never end: “I just don’t have the
time.” “I don’t know anything about cars”.
There are all sorts of ways to kill a perfectly good vehicle, and one of the most common is to
neglect basic maintenance. Driving too long on the same spark plugs, forgetting to change
the oil and turning a deaf ear to squealing brakes or mysterious clunking sounds can mean
an early trip to the junkyard for your vehicle.
You can also be fined for failing to look after your car. Police at random roadworthy checks
can cite you for bald tyres, faulty brake lights, a broken seat belt, a cracked windscreen and
a whole host of other issues.
Keeping your car in tip-top condition keeps you safer on the road and can save you heaps
of money in the long-term. When it comes to your vehicle, prevention is 1000 times better
than cure. Basic upkeep is cheaper than major repairs caused by neglect.
Even though modern car engines are a bit more complex now, the list of simple things you
can do to keep your car running right are largely the same as they were half a century ago.
But even though modern car engines are a bit more complex now, the list of simple things
you can do to keep your car running right are largely the same as they were half a century
ago.
Fluids checklist
Engine oil
Radiator coolant
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Windscreen washer fluid
Clutch fluid (manual cars)
Gearbox oil
Differential fluid
Tyres checklist
Tyre pressures
Treadwear and tread depth
Spare tyre
Car jack and tools
Lights checklist
Headlights
Indicators/hazard lights
Brake lights
Reverse lights
Park & Fog lights
Learning Objectives:
1. Records of routine servicing, maintenance and repairs are kept and updated in accordance
with workplace procedures.
The Importance of Vehicle Maintenance
Records
Fluids are the lifeblood of your vehicle. If your mechanic asks you when you last changed
your power steering fluid and your answer is “I’m not sure” or “What’s power steering fluid?”
you probably need to brush up on the fluids your car uses.
Most cars will use the following fluids: engine oil, radiator coolant, automatic transmission
fluid, windscreen washer fluid, brake fluid, clutch fluid, power steering fluid, battery
electrolyte fluid (distilled water) and possibly more depending on the vehicle type. Check
fluids regularly, and replace when needed.
Having your tyres inflated to the correct pressure increases the life of your tyres and reduces
fuel consumption.
Tyre gauges are cheap and easy to use. If you feel your car pulling to one side when you
drive, you may be overdue for a wheel alignment and balance as well.
And a good way to extend the life of all your tyres is to have them rotated regularly to
reduce uneven wear.
If John Howard was Prime Minister the last time you changed the rubber on your windscreen
wipers, it may be time to splurge on some new wiper blades.
If John Howard was Prime Minister the last time you changed the rubber on your windscreen
wipers, it may be time to splurge on some new wiper blades.
In Australia’s harsh climate, wiper blades should be changed at least once a year – and
sooner if you’re having trouble seeing through your windscreen properly.
Spend that little bit of extra money on some quality blades – you’ll notice the difference.
Think of your air filter as your car’s lungs. If it’s clogged up with dust, it will be letting dirty air
into your engine, reducing its performance.
Some air filters are easy to reach and change yourself while others are less accessible, in
which case you might get the local auto shop to do it for you. Your owner’s manual will tell
you how often it needs changing.
Generally, the more stop-start driving you do and the dustier the roads you drive on, the
more often it’ll need a change.
Your car’s exterior should be washed regularly, especially if you park under sap-dropping
trees or have fruit bats in your neighbourhood. Bat droppings and sap can ruin your paint job
if not removed quickly.
An untidy car interior can attract cockroaches, turn off your hot date and make your car
smell funny. Enough said.
Car batteries have a habit of conking out when you need them most, so it pays to (a) keep
track of how old they are, (b) check the terminals for corrosion whenever you open the
bonnet and (c) top up the battery fluid when necessary. Use distilled water and don’t
overfill.
Infrequent use of a vehicle can result in battery drain, so always run your car now and again.
And be careful of that flaky powder around a corroded battery terminal – it’s dangerously
acidic.
As a proud car owner, you want your vehicle to last as long as possible. In looking after it, the
first rule is ‘do no harm’. Here are some blunders to avoid:
Riding your brakes down a long hill
Brake pads wear faster when they heat up, and a sure way to get them super-hot is to ride
them all the way down a long hill. A better method is to alternate between braking and
letting off the brake.
This is much easier on your brake pads, which won’t keep you safe if they’re worn down to
nothing.
Pressure washers are great for cleaning the grime off your concrete driveway – but not so
great for cleaning your car engine, which is a complex piece of equipment with all sorts of
small wires, sensors and components.
A high powered jet of water can dislodge electrical bits, hoses and rubber seals in an instant,
and is simply a bad idea.
A few rags and some degreaser fluid is all you really need to clean a grimy engine and you
probably only have to do this once or twice a year.
Forgetting to change your oil
This must be the most common mental lapse for car owners – leaving their oil change until
the engine’s lubricant looks something like sludgy black molasses.
Old engine oil does your car no good at all, so you should change your oil as often as your
car manual suggests (and this frequency varies between models). And don’t forget to
change the oil filter now and then too.
Whether you’re parked on a steep hill or reasonably flat ground, you should always use the
parking brake.
Aside from obvious safety reasons, using the park brake takes the strain off your transmission –
which is not designed to hold your car steady. Something as simple as getting into the habit
of using your park brake can potentially add years to the life of your car.
If you let it, your car can talk to you. And if you listen carefully, you can work out what it’s
trying to say. That squeak every time you open the passenger door means you need to oil
the door hinges. That thumping sound can mean a loose exhaust pipe.
That whining noise can indicate a worn transmission. And that high-pitched squeal you hear
when you put on the brakes is serious – it’s a sure sign your brake pads need replacing.
Always listen to your car – it will often give you a clue when something isn’t working right.
Always listen to your car – it will often give you a clue when something isn’t working right.
What’s one of the best ways to add months of unnecessary wear to your transmission within
just a few seconds? It’s by being in too much of a hurry and switching from Reverse to Drive
(or vice versa) while your car is still slowly moving.
You’re basically putting an incredible amount of strain on your gears by asking them to
perform the same function as a brake. This can lead to a worn transmission, damaged drive
shafts and sloppy suspension handling.
When you start your car, you should ideally have your windscreen wipers, radio, air
conditioning and any other accessories off. That way, your engine doesn’t have to work so
hard to get going.
The maximum wear on a car engine occurs when you start it, so give it a break when you’re
turning the ignition key. Also, don’t rev your engine to ‘warm up the car’ in winter.
This does more harm than good, because it doesn’t give the engine oil time to work its way
through the system.
Instead, just idle the car normally for a minute or two before heading off. Car engines, like
people, don’t respond well to quick, extreme temperature changes.
Here’s the scenario: you’re driving along the road and notice your temperature gauge has
climbed into ‘HOT’. You could stop right then and there and call a tow truck, but you keep
driving in the hope that the car will be okay until you can get to a repair shop.
Before you know it, coolant is gushing out of the overflow tank and the engine overheats so
much that the vehicle stalls and won’t go any further. So you end up having to ring a towing
service anyway.
When your car suddenly overheats, stop ASAP, because the longer you keep going, the
more damage you can cause and the more it will cost you.
So, it turns out you’ve got a cracked cylinder head and a blown head gasket. If you had
stopped at the first sign of overheating, you might have just had to pay for the installation of
a new thermostat. Instead, you end up having to pay a bill of over $1000.
The moral of the story: when your car suddenly overheats, stop ASAP, because the longer
you keep going, the more damage you can cause and the more it will cost you.
While there are certainly a number of maintenance-related procedures that should only be
handled by a trained and licensed mechanic, not every process has the same complexity. If
you don’t have a lot of money to give to your local mechanic, there are a number of
maintenance procedures that can be done at home.
All it takes is some common equipment, a few minutes of spare time, and a little know-how,
and you’ll be saving money on maintenance issues that would otherwise be eating away at
your bank account. Here are some maintenance procedures that you can easily do today
from home:
Replacing headlights
Headlights aren’t built to last forever. In fact, most are nothing more than incandescent
bulbs mounted on the front of a vehicle, so eventually they’re going to burn themselves out.
To replace a headlight, you first need to open your car’s bonnet (make sure that the car is
not running). Remove the plastic backing from the back of the headlight. While wearing
insulated gloves, remove the electrical connectors from the back of the bulb. The bulb
should be removable at this point. Don’t remove your gloves; oils from your hands can
actually damage the new bulb, so be sure to only handle it with gloved hands. Place the
new bulb where the old one had been, and replace the electrical connector and the
plastic backing. Once everything is secure, turn on your car’s headlamps so that you can be
sure that the new bulb is working properly.
Changing a battery
The average car battery has a life-expectancy of 3.5–5 years, meaning that you’re probably
going to have to deal with the process of replacing one at least once during your ownership
of your car. Replacing a defunct battery is not difficult, but can be dangerous. Be sure to
wear insulated gloves and protective eye-gear, and to consult your vehicle’s owner manual
before you begin the process.
Make sure that the car is turned off completely before beginning the procedure. Start by
opening your car’s bonnet and locating the battery. Use battery pliers or a battery wrench
to loosen the nut holding the black cable in place. Twist the black cable while pulling up on
it to remove it from the wire (if the cable doesn’t come free, you may either have to scrub
away some of the corrosion holding it in place, or use a battery terminal puller, so as not to
damage the cables). Using the same method, detach the red cable.
Use a socket wrench to remove the clamp holding the battery in place. Lift the battery free
from its housing, and set it aside (do not throw the battery away; instead, take it to a local
automotive store and have them recycle it). If there is corrosion left behind after removing
the battery, use a mixture of bi-carbonate soda and water to scrub it away. Allow the casing
to dry. Place the new battery in the tray, and re-secure the holding clamp. Attach and
secure the red cable to the positive (+) connector, and then attach and secure the black
cable to the negative (-) connector. Make sure that both cables are totally secure and
immovable. Test the battery connections by starting your car. Close the bonnet.
Replacing windscreen wipers
Windscreen wipers are only designed to last for about a year (give or take, depending upon
your local weather conditions). Replacing a windscreen wiper may be the easiest car
maintenance procedure you’ll ever do.
Despite this, many car owners still prefer to pay mechanics and automotive dealerships to
replace the wipers for them. To replace a wiper, start by purchasing your replacement
blades. Not all blades are the same, so know beforehand the exact make and model of
your vehicle. Find a pair of blades that are compatible with your car.
Pull your car’s wiper assemblies up and away from the windscreen. Turn the blades so that
the hinge is visible. Pull on the tab that is located on the hinge of the blade so that it
disengages from the wiper. Pull the wiper down towards the windscreen to separate the
wiper from the arm. Remove the blade completely. Attach the new wipers in the same way
that the old ones were attached (consult your car’s manual if you’re having trouble). The
wiper hinge should make an audible click once the wiper is secure. Do this for both wipers,
and then lay the entire assembly back against the windscreen. Clean the windscreen with a
quality glass cleaner before testing the new wiper.
Air filters make it possible for your engine to draw clean air into itself free of debris. Dirty air
filters can reduce fuel efficiency and cause strain to other parts of your engine. To replace
an air filter, first make sure that your car isn’t running. Open the car bonnet, and locate the
air filter housing (your car manual can show you where to find it, and what it looks like).
Open the air filter housing, and remove the old filter. Using an old rag, clean out the air box.
Place the new filter into the housing, and then replace and secure the lid. Close the bonnet.